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katja-horsch


52 Blog Entries
51 Trips
4056 Photos

Trips:

South-Africa / Cape Town
VSO experience in Cambodia
06.-23.07.09
my trip to the beach
August 2009
Third day in Phnom Phen
first entry from Cambodia/ PP
4.th day
Monday, the 11th of May
Tuesday
Wednesday until Friday (13-15.05.2009)
end of August, beginning of September 09
16.09.-30.09.09
last day in PP
finally arrived in Stung Treng
Stung Treng 2, Thursday
ICT- In Country Training
Stung Treng 3, the weekend
katja-horsch's Travel Blog
ST 25.05.- 31.05.2009
what happend in Jan & Feb 2010
1.6.- 7.6.09
My 29th Birthday
being here my second month now
Ratana kiri and Kampong Thom
My 30th Birthday in Cambodia
ST end of June
visitors from Germany
I have been to Laos!
29.06.-06.07.09
March/April 2010
Kep
why I am here
Happy Khmei New year!
Mekong River Swim and vegetarian delights
a new year, a new
Thailand in April
my new house and other desasters
Weddings in Stung Treng
Welcome to a good world!
Weddings in Stung Treng 2011
Holiday in the first world
Back in Vietnam
Ho Chi Minh City and the end of my VSO placement in Stung Treng
Nov/Dec 09
16 months here
Unbelievable but true, Dave made it to Cambodia!
Halloween, Boatrace and more kittens!
a volunteers life...
...and that's it!
North-Vietnam

Shorthand link:

http://www.blogabond.com/katja-horsch




August 2009

Phnom Penh, Cambodia


12.08.09
So. After being on holiday and having fun, I’m now back at work and do what I am supposed to do. Capacity building and development work.
I really have the urge to achieve something while I am here and it is hard sometimes to motivate myself and just keep going. So I try to keep myself busy with putting as much into the day as possible to keep myself occupied. Also having things to look forward to helps, in a short term meaning.
Yesterday I was looking forward to go to the market and do my weekly fruit and vegetable shopping. I really enjoy that now. A few month ago I felt uncomfortable and anxious about it because of all the people staring at me and laughing and well it’s just so different here. Now I can laugh about myself. The highlight actually yesterday was when I met Delia for lunch and we had a Burger in Stung Treng Burger bar, which I didn’t know it existed at all. Burger with chips, and it was tasty.
Today I am looking forward to my hairdresser appointment at 5 after work. Lets see if they can give me the highlights I want.

I am on my own in the office at the moment, the teachers are mostly busy because students have exams at the moment, Hor is off sick, he came yesterday morning with a big bag of tablets and said, he has Malaria. After the meeting on Monday, he had a bad headache and rigors and he went to the hospital for a blood test. Malaria positive, one plus. Which is not too bad, mild. So I hope he’s taking plenty of rest and his tablets, which he didn’t want to take initially.

On Monday, we had a meeting with all the Health Volunteers from Kratie with their VA’s and Stung Treng Health Volunteers with VA’s.

Purpose was information exchange, discussions about improvement on our work and the VA’s also had the opportunity to gossip about their ‘bosses’, the volunteers. We also invited the Regional Chief Nurse Mr. Sethyl and he came, which was nice. He told us about the coming Nursing Council, which is very exiting and his role and responsibility.
I offered my big house because I also have altogether 20 chairs available and originally we planned to sit in the living room on mats on the floor. Deep down I knew at the end it would all happen on the balcony, and it did.It was a whole day meeting, in the afternoon the Kratie group went home again.

Delia and I decided to go to Kratie on Friday afternoon by motorbike. We will have one moto each and the journey might take 2 to 3 hours. The reason for that is, that it is Suzanna’s Birthday ( she is a Behaviour and Communication Change volunteer in Kratie and has Dengue at the moment) and her husband Roger ( a dedicated English teacher) plays in a Jazz band. And for Suzanna’s birthday, he and his band are playing and I really would like to hear that. Can’t imagine a Jazz band in Cambodia!

At work, I am just trying to prepare for Daniel’s visit in September. We have to develop the Annual Work Plan with planned activities, expected outcomes and evidence of change. We then will meet together with the director of the RTC, the RCN, 2 teachers from the RTC and Hor and me. This is a basic thing volunteers have to do. Proof of evidence that I am doing what I am supposed to do. Which gives me also a clear guideline and aims.

20th of August
As agreed with the RTC, I’m now every Friday in our hospital. Trying to strengthen relationship between hospital and RTC. Also for me it is a good opportunity to see, what’s actually going on in there and I get closer to the preceptors and also to the regular staff and they know me now and are very friendly to me. So in the morning I went with Channa and met students, preceptors and chatted to them and promoted Nursing documentation, showed them how to fill out an Observation chart and a Drug chart. They just don’t know how to do it, so they rarely document anything. It’s pathetic and so frustrating. In the afternoon, we were on the paediatric ward, seeing students there. I noticed, that one of the students went out of the staff room with a syringe. When he came back I asked him, what he had done. He said he gave an IM injection to a child. I asked him if he had documented at all what he gave and when, and he said, the preceptor will do it when he comes back from the lunch break. I didn’t agree with that and made him write a new drug chart for the actual day and tick the box with the time and sign for it. I asked him to report to the preceptor and let him countersign later.
Next I saw a female student, also 2nd year, fiddling with a syringe. I asked her, what she is doing and she said, she’ll give also an IM injection to a child. I asked, who told her so and who will observe her. She said nobody, the preceptor said to do so once the drugs arrive from pharmacy. I asked her if I could observe. So we went to a little boy, max. 3 years old. When he saw her coming, he started crying. Cambodian nurses are very cold. They never try to calm down or take away fear. They just go ahead and do what they are supposed to do. I just couldn’t believe it, seeing a second year student giving an IM injection to a child without any qualified staff around. And the boy was so much crying. The needle was thick and I sat next to the boy, holding his hand and try to calm him down. She gave the injection into his thigh, not very confident though but she found the right spot. I just couldn’t help myself and cried together with the boy while calming him down. I tried to pull myself together but when children cry, I just can’t help it.
Afterwards I asked her, what she gave. She didn’t know and had to look it up from the drug chart. It was Paracetamol. I asked her, if she checked the temperature at all of the child before she gave it, she said, it was last checked yesterday. How often is it prescribed? Three times a day. I nearly started crying again when I found out that the doctor had been already, only comes back the next morning, this boy gets everything else orally and he has to get those bloody painful injections maybe three more times by unqualified staff until somebody comes around to change the prescription. I was really upset and just needed to leave the place.

Nurses here don’t think independently. I even think, they don’t think at all. They don’t care and usually have no background knowledge. They just go ahead, following any order from somebody in white uniform, if they give the wrong injection, tablet, nobody will know, because it’s not documented. If somebody dies, it’s just another one of so many. Nurses here don’t know how to care, to sit down with a patient, having a friendly chat or even holding hands, none of it happens. They don’t even know how to follow the nursing process. They just do the absolute minimum, no cleaning, no tiding, they don’t give painkillers before they change a wound dressing. Patients have to be very tough here, and they are. I’ve seen women after caesarean operations, so weak and pale, they do anything themselves because they don’t get any help from the nurse. All the dirty stuff is usually done by relatives, like going to the toilet or cleaning up afterwards. Nurses here don’t wash patients either. The nurse gives tablets or other meds whenever they arrive from pharmacy, probably they don’t even know about side effects or pre cautions.
It is shocking and I feel that I can’t do anything. And I struggle with that.

On Friday afternoon, Delia and me drove with our motos fortunately to Kratie and that was a good time to take a break from all those things and enjoy Cambodia. It took 2 and a half hours and it was a good ride, because the road was done only a few years ago. Apparently 10 years ago it was still unsafe to go that way because of soldiers and rebels, but now a days it is very safe.
We stayed at Emily’s and it felt like a proper girly weekend. On Friday evening we went to the birthday party which was actually Roger’s and Carl’s B-D-party. Karl is German and is a Chief Technical Advisor, IP-consultant. Works for IP and GOPA. Although he celebrated his 58th birthday, he swung me around with his Latin salsa skills and we had a proper party actually. Half Khmei, half ‘Barangs’, as they say. Barang means foreign, actually French. Also Roger played the Saxophone and Karl the Muntamonika, don’t know the English word, and they had a cool 30min Jazz session.

We drank a lot and had lovely food and the next morning, I had to take it very easy because of a strong hangover. So we lazed on the balcony, watched a film, discussed the men and had lots of Roibosh tea. In the evening we went to a new massage place in Kratie, and we all had a massage for $5. One hour Khmei massage, which is like a workout. No relaxation there, they squeeze and pull and slap and push. But it helped with my back pain which I had then for nearly 2 weeks.
Afterwards we went to Joe’s and had his special of the day. Beef stew with mashed potatoes. Yummy…

On Sunday Delia and me went home around midday, trying to spot some dolphins on the way back, but again, no luck for me.
In the evening I did my washing and packed my bag one more time to go back to Chhlong, passing Kratie the next day, to do Supervision with the Regional Chief Nurse.

Chhlong is a very small, very basic town behind Kratie, passing through it on the way to Phnom Penh. We saw a lot of flooding around that area, which effects harvest and already poor people. I wasn’t aware that the flooding was so severe, but the river is high and maybe there will be also flooding in Stung Treng.


Sethyl and me stayed at a nice guesthouse, very basic, no shower and toilet flush, but it was charming and cheap. Channa stayed at his brother’s house. After the first supervision day, the clinical instructor persisted, that our group had ‘pregnant egg’ for a snack. I thought I knew what was coming. It is a speciality here in Cambodia, to eat duck egg, with the fully grown duckling inside. So they boil the eggs with the ducklings and then eat the duckling out of it with salt, pepper and lemon. They couldn’t get enough of it, but I just couldn’t. Looking at the little face and the wings and the feet, I tried my best but couldn’t. I had little meat kebab sticks instead.

The supervision was interesting. It is not easy to make preceptors learn new things.

When you give advise to them they look down, and it feels like speaking against a wall. So I nag them and ask them at the end what they remember about what I’d just told them. Usually it’s a complete different context they start to talk about then. So I try to tell them the key points again and ask them to remember them for a successful assessment of a student.

During a student assessment, I realised, that another student struggled with a drip of a patient, next to where we were standing. She had a syringe with a needle and tried to inject the drug into the giving set of the drip. Completely on her own. Of course I went there and looked closer what she was doing there. She fiddled with the drip and liquid suddenly purred out. She wasn’t sure what she was doing, but eventually she managed. Afterwards I asked her what she gave and she didn’t know. I asked her who ordered her to give it. She said she was a Primary Midwife student ( equivalent to a Healthcare assistant in the UK and they only have one year training here) and a 2nd year student nurse ordered her, to give that IV drug to a patient. I thought, I need to explode.
So after we gave feedback to the preceptor, who didn’t have a clue what she was doing, I ordered all the other preceptors into the staff room.
I asked them, how come, a 2nd year student can give instructions to a primary student to give an IV drug to a patient, but the students are not allowed to go to the patients and do Observations ( Blood pressure, Pulse, Temperature, RR) on their own.
That just so upset me but I really tried to stay calm and not get carried away.

The preceptors looked at me and found excuses. They had told them to do so, they were around all the time, there is no time to check Observations and so on.

It just didn’t make sense to me. I asked the clinical instructor from the RTC why primary students are allowed to give IV drugs, although they only have one year training. Apparently they do the same as a nurse, but get played even less. I just don’t understand that.

While looking more closely what the other students were doing, I saw them inserting Venflons on their own, mixing IV antibiotics, giving injections, all on their own and to all age classes. Children or Adults, it makes no difference. And they just do it, nobody looks or checks. The nurses are usually not bothered. They also send the students instead of doing stuff themselves.

So how can I live with that. I feel so powerless and want to change things, but I think I just can’t. It is very very frustrating and I feel very sorry for the patients. But they seem to accept it, although they are generally afraid of students.
It is really a complete different world with so different rules and assumptions. I thought I was over the culture shock but now I feel, I am in the middle of it again.
At the moment it feels difficult to accept things like that, because it is against everything I have learned and taught in my home countries.
I feel like I can’t do anything here, it’s like blowing hot air, nothing happens. And it breaks my heart, seeing all those people in pain, babies and children crying, nobody takes real action or good care of them. It’s not good and I’m sitting at the RTC in front of my laptop, trying to train the teachers here who are not interested at all.

Is this really good what I am doing? I have the feeling it’s not. So I have real doubts at the moment about my placement and being here.

But I want to try and hang on for a bit longer. At least a year. That’s when I should know for sure if it’s worth it or not.

Today, Thursday the 20th, I will give 4 girls from the neighbourhood English lessons. I agreed that at the beginning of the week with their mother, who owns a little restaurant around the corner from my house and I went there a few times now and she speaks good English so we can communicate. I am looking forward to that. A new challenge for me though. But a good experience I hope. We’ll see.


22nd of August:
The English lessons went very well and I had a lot of fun. After I practised the ABC song with Delia again, I had forgotten how it was ending, I taught them basic things so far. What is your name. (There names are Peach, Krasmey, Theda and Touch). Where are you from. What is your country and what nationality are you. I can use all those nice participatory teaching methods with them because it is a small group. They are also very interested in singing, so next time I will provide the lyrics for Celine Dions Titanic song, it’s still very popular here. Some are very bright, some not so. To my delight, Vandy, the mother of the four owns this little restaurant and so she didn’t want to let me leave without having had something to eat afterwards. That saves me cooking dinner and her food is really good. Even on Saturday, Theda ( one of the daughters) came along and brought lunch, for ‘le cru’, that means: teacher. They don’t say my name but always teacher, and I don’t know yet if I like it or not.

24th of August:
I still have mixed feelings about being here. This morning, cycling to the RTC, I nearly had an accident with a moto, who wasn’t looking. Then I was really frustrated. 5 meters further two little kids shouted ‘hello’ to me, waving and with smiling faces.
That made me feel better immediately.

Hor has recovered from his malaria and was bright and cheerful in the morning. He asked me if I want to try to apply for home- internet with Mobitel. Of course I want, so we will go to the phone shop this afternoon and maybe I get wireless installed into my house! It’s around $30 per month and I think its not too bad.

After Channa told me that he had grilled mice for dinner, apparently special mice grown for eating. He said they were very tasty, specially the tail… He also told me that his girlfriend left him. She found a much older married man, who offered her to support her studies with money and gets from her in return a sexual relationship. And it is so sad, because he really loved her but she left him because he is poor and supports his family, with the little money he earns.

Another thing for me to look forward to is that my beloved mum and sister will come next year in January to visit me for 2 weeks. That is soooooo nice and I can’t wait. I feel so happy that first Carmen comes and then my family. So exiting!!!

To all my friends, who have clothes or material, anything that can be used but isn’t in use, instead of throwing it away, please give it to my friend Carmen in England – Oxford or to my mum in Germany – Guestrow. Everything is needed here and poor people appreciate everything. So collecting can be started now. Especially expired hospital material or teaching equipment. Even English books would be great!

Thank you! Hope you are all well! Lots of love, yours Katja



permalink written by  katja-horsch on August 24, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: August 2009
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01.-09.08.2009

Phnom Penh, Cambodia


I was wondering, why Sihanouk Ville felt so westernised, but it is, as I read now, because it has been only constructed in the late 1950’s as a port city, so the town is much newer, more urban and cosmopolitan that most Cambodian provincial cities.

In general it is Cambodia’s premier beach town, sporting miles of sandy beaches, uninhabited islands and warm tropical waters.
The main city area sits on a beach lined peninsula jutting into the Gulf of Thailand. The pace of life is very relaxed and unhurried. The beaches offer umbrellas, thatched roofed eateries, bars and lots of restaurants, pubs, bungalows and an range of hotels, all making for a laid-back, beachy atmosphere and a great little tropical getaway. It is also a place to unwind by the beach, enjoy the fresh- from- the- ocean seafood , pary at the bars and happenings, take in island excursions or scuba trips and generally slow down, lay back and chill out.

So far so good, little guidebook, but how is it in reality?

I was very lucky to stay in a wooden bungalow at the beach with a wonderful sea view and hearing the waves at all times.

I also didn’t pay that much because of ‘rainy season’ and not many tourists. That was a great experience.

In 6 days there were only 2 days rain, so that also gave a great beach feeling.

I met up with a few other volunteers and we explored the 5 main beaches. Victory beach, which is apparently the ‘Ibiza’party beach

; Independence beach, most of it is closed to the public
; Sokha Beach, with perfect fine off-white sand
; Serendipity Beach is were I stayed, very popular with lots of accommodation and shacks to party; Ocheuteal Beach
is the same and then at the far end Otres Beach, where it is quieter and less busy.

When the weather was nice we stayed at the beach and chilled,

ate fresh seafood which was offered all the time or any other snacks, like fruit or doughnuts.

Constantly there were little kids, trying to sell bracelets, massages, hair removal or nail painting. Not only them, also cripples, a man with a baby on his arm who said his wife ran away came along and beggars in general. So you were never alone. SV has lots of orphans and poor families and I think they make good business with the tourists there. I had to explain a lot to them: “Knyom neksmetjet, ot mean loy charan”. That means that I am a volunteer and that I don’t have much money.

There was lots of sextourism going on. In the evenings, the young Khmei girls hooked up with single foreign males, those ones who are unattractive and old and you know that they only come there for one thing. Cheap entertainment.


In the streets I saw lots of white foreigners on motorbikes and was asking if they have a driving licence or how can they rent a moto. Driving licence is not needed. Only some kind of ID. The police apparently doesn’t stop because they want to avoid conflict. So basically everything is allowed in Sihanouk Ville.

Including drugs like weed. That was the only open drug offer I had. And everybody smokes weed there openly and everywhere it is allowed. As long as you pay you can do everything you want there.

When we were walking along Otres Beach, I saw a crowd of people standing in the distance and was asking myself, what’s going on there. A party? Coming closer, I saw a man lying in the sand and a white woman over him doing cardiac resuscitation. But far too slow. And the crowd standing around them, a guy doing mouth to mouth resus.
I couldn’t help myself but jumping in and I’m not sure if I pushed the woman away, but she didn’t do it right, so I took over and then realised, that that man was already so blue and so I asked while doing the compressions, what happened. They said he was found around 30 minutes ago floating in the sea. They tried to call the ambulance but their reply was that after such a long time it was too late and he is probably dead anyway. To be honest, I didn’t try long. I gave maybe 3 or 4 more compressions together with the breaths from the guy, felt his aorta for a few seconds and declared him dead. His arms were stiff already as I realised when we turned him over to roll him onto a mat to carry him into a shack to cover the corpse. He was a heavy fat white foreigner and I can imagine he had a heart attack while being in the water or something like that. Also the waves were quit high all week and the stream strong. Nobody knew him but fortunately a guy came on his moto and said that this man rented a moto from him, so he had his passport. At least something. Later on the police arrived and I don’t know what happened then because I had to leave the scenery. It was quit a shock.

On the last day I was there, I did a boat trip to 3 islands, as they advertised it beforehand. One of them was the famous ‘Bamboo-island’. The trip was $14, including breakfast and lunch.
So in the morning I got a lift to the breakfast place and had a baguette with jam and a cup of tea. Then we went to the beach where the boat was already waiting for us. We were a group of people of 7. 3 couples and me. It took more then an hour to reach the first island over the open sea and the waves were sometimes a meter high. So we really had to cling to the boat not to fall out. But once we arrived, we had the opportunity to snorkel in shallow and calm water.

Still I couldn’t see much because the snorkel equipment was disappointing and the sea was still not clear because of the storm. Even so I was really nice, because of the sight. And I love it to jump from a boat into blue water..

Next one was Bamboo- island.

We could snorkel again while the guys prepared lunch. Fresh Barracuda fillet from the grill. That was really tasty. Afterwards we had the opportunity to explore the island more so I went over to the other side and it was also very beautiful there. I had a swim and a sunbath and would have stayed longer, if not one Khmei guy had made approaches towards me. So I joined the group again because I didn’t know how to say: Go away! In Khmei.

I was swimming so much that afternoon.

It was so lovely. When we were ready for the third island, the motor of the boat stopped working. We were drifting for a while until finally they dropped the anchor on my suggestion. Of course non of the two guys had money left on the phone so they asked into the crowd who has local SIM. Me! After 5 telephone calls and 2 hours later, a boat arrived and towed away our boat back to the main island. I felt all that was quit exciting and I wasn’t worried for a minute, but those American couples made a big fuss and got a free drink out at the end.

I just felt sorry for the guys. I mean, what do people expect when they are here? At the end of the day it is still a developing country they are in but it’s easy to forget when you stay in one of the big posh hotels along the coast side .


But this is Cambodia, where people die in the sea and nobody notices it, where little children rummage around in the garbage to find something to eat, where the inhabitants would do anything for money. And still there are generally lovely people, very warm, smiley and helpful.

So I will definitely return, the landscape is just so beautiful and I love the sea. I also got a good tan, haven’t been that brown for a long time.

Back in PP I’ve witnessed ‘Cambodian autumn’ in a park with lots of kites and wind.




permalink written by  katja-horsch on August 10, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: my trip to the beach
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first entry

Phnom Penh, Cambodia


So,
Here I am now. It’s the late afternoon of my second day in Phnom Penh and I feel alive for the first time since I’m here.
After a really long but smooth flight to Bankok, I nearly missed the next one to PP due to confusion at the gates.
I got picked up before the check out by Suon Soklaing, who gave me my visa (for 3 month), and then we picked up my bags and the helmet. My big blue rucksack was open ( the top bit), because one string broke. I don’t think, anything is missing though. Soklaing is one of the VSO admin staff, middle aged and very quiet. His English is not very good. He picked me up with the car. Only then, on the road with him, reality hit me. So many new impressions and things to see. There are no traffic lights but numbers counting backwards from 70 in red and green. So once your 70 (green) seconds are over , you have to stop. Once your red 70 seconds are over, you can go. And there are different lanes, but that don’t mean anything. Everybody drives as they like. Apperently there is a lack of Vitamin A in the Cambodian diet, so lots of people can’t see very well anymore. Lots of horns are used and of course, cars are allowed anything and motos and cyclists really have to watch out. It s very slow though and it makes an ‘organised chaos’ impression.
The first rule I have learned so far since I’m here is: Don’t stop when you cross the road. Because then you do something unexpected. Vehicles usually drive around you.

I then was shown the room and was offered rest. By then I felt so shattered, that I happily did that. My room is on top of the VSO office and it has two beds with moskito nets and two big fans. Bye then, I was completely soaked in sweat and could take a shower, with warm water! Cold water is only avail. Very early in the morning.

I also met a few other volunteers, one is actually here with Dengue fever, her name is Noel and she is a Health Advisor in Kratie. She felt this aching pain three days ago and couldn’t see properly. So she was advised to come to PP VSO office to have treatment and people around. A few people from different placements from Cambodia were here yesterday because they went today to different places. On Monday starts a puplic holiday so people are using this time to travel using the big airport in PP. Corine is going to Malaysia, Pam and her husband are going to Vietnam, Meghan is going to Laos and Eric is going to Bankok. I would have gone with one of them, but it was too short notice. So I’ll be all on my own with Noel over the weekend.

After I slept yesterday all afternoon ( not very well), I woke up very hungry. There is a supermarket just next to us, so I went there. It’s one of those posh ones, they sell basics there, but no fresh fruit or veg. So I bought a bottle of wine, some crisps, some instant noodles for dinner and some bread and tea and milk. So I had dinner, there is a little kitchen next to my room, and had some wine to help me to get tired. I talked to other volunteers which was very helpful and they said that they all came in a bunch of at least 20 people and they explored the area from day one and could help each other. They gave me really useful insight information and felt sorry for me. I hadn’t thought about that by then and I’m still ok with the situation.

This morning, I had a nice cup of black tea with milk and bread with cambodian marmelade. When I looked closer at the bread I could see, that it was starting to get mouldy. I was hungry and thought, give it a try where it’s not so obvious, and it was tasty. But then, just in the middle about my briefing about security and logistics with my country director Alice, I felt really sick and vomited twice. So I went back to bed for another 2 hours. I woke up feeling hungry and decided to find something else then in this supermarket next door. I must have looked really down, because Jean was still here and asked me what was wrong. I explained to her that I’m really hungry but I don’t know what to eat and where to get it from. She was so kind and said, no problem, I show you around a little bit. So she showed me good places and I had a relly good beetroot salad with walnuts for luch. I also bought some good bread.

After that, we returned to the office and I had a really useful meeting with the programme manager for health, Daniel. He’s origianally from Ethiopia and really nice. I had a good overview about the health programme and my role. I was shocked to hear that women who just gave birth don’t start breastfeeding straight away because they think it’s not good for the baby. They wait for 10 days and give newborns water from a bottle, which is usually not properly cleaned. As an induction method for pregnant women, they press on the belly and start the process pushing it out.
Patients have to pay one ‘over the table’ fee in the hospital to be seen and then another ‘under the table’ fee to the doctor himself. Corruption here is bigger then I thought. But apperently, things are improving a little bit thanks to money donors and dedicated people.

I’ll stay here in PP for another 5 days only, then I’ll travel by bus to Stung Treng with all my belongings. The journey apparently takes around 7 hours. I’m looking forward to that.
Meanwhile I’m supposed to have 3 hours language training per day, but the teacher didn’n know, so he’ll arrive on Monday. So I have now the weekend ahead of me and I’ll try to explore PP a little bit more. It feels a little scary on my own, but apperently it is kind of save. They sometimes do bag-snatching and I’m advised always to wear a helmet on a motorbike.They are lots of european looking people around.

The rain season started shortly before I arrived and it is such a relief, to have the rain around in the afternoon/ evening. There was a thunderstorm yesterday. So I don’t think I have to be too careful with water at the moment. Yesterday I had 3 showeres…
I had a mango earlier on from the mango tree in front of the office. Absolutely delicious. Very sweet and juicy.
I’ll go out now to find a Sim card for my mobile phone to be available and to take some pictures. I might also find something for dinner.



permalink written by  katja-horsch on August 5, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: first entry from Cambodia/ PP
tagged FirstEntry

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06.-23.07.09

Phnom Penh, Cambodia


7th of July
I think I have my first drop of emotions and self-belief. Probably triggered by having a cold and feeling ill with it and because my proposal was turned down.
Also the anticipated supervision visits in Kratie and Chhlong are not happening this month. That means going to the RTC every day and sit on the desk in front of my laptop and trying to work. But what? Is at the moment my biggest problem… I have the feeling nothing happens and they can well do without me here. So it makes me think of coming home. But not in a serious way of course. So don’t worry, you’ll still have a rest from me for the next months.

Today I got Delia’s motorbike. She wants it to be used because she’s going to Austria for two weeks. So I was cruising around with it and it’s so much fun! I love it so much. It also has the advantage of getting from A to B much quicker and arriving without being sweaty all over. Disadvantage of course no exercise and petrol costs.
So whoever comes and visits me, be prepared for being on the back of a moto!
I most likely have to give it back to Delia when she returns but once her placement finishes in December, I can probably have it.

On the 6th of July it was a sad day for Cambodia because the wife of somebody very important died. So all flags were only half up and everybody was in mourning.

On the 7th of July it was a happy day for Cambodia. It is a celebration day because of a temple in Preah Vehir, which lies close at the Thai border. This temple was finished building last year and it has something to do with the conflict Thailand-Cambodia.
So we had a van here at the RTC who blew up balloons. At 11 am everybody had to stand in front of the RTC, teachers and students and then we sang the national anthem. There were even cameras and people who took pictures. After the singing one was shouting: Preah Vehir! And everybody shouted with raised arms: Preah Vehir! Then clapping and giggling and then they released the balloons into the sky. It was quit nice. In Phnom Penh they have a big celebration with live concerts and so on for a few days.
Even one day later we have the telly on in our RTC office all day where we can see the concerts.

Daniel came also up to see all Health Volunteers in Stung Treng. He is the Senior Programme Manager from VSO Programme Office, based in Phnom Penh. It was very good to see him. I also invited him and Channa, Delia and Louisa for dinner into my house. I cooked Thai Curry. It was nice. That reminds me of mice. Catch regularly again. Anyway. To talk to Daniel was like a brainstorm which I definitely have to do more often. He is very good in what he’s doing I think and he knows a lot about development and budgets and all that. He gave me more good ideas to work on and encouraged me to pick up on old ones which I thought couldn’t be done anyway.

Hor has a bad time at the moment. First his uncle died last weekend, so he had to go to Phnom Penh. Then now his grandmother died and he’s going back to Phnom Penh. Those journeys are all long and exhausting and I feel sorry for his loss. He has applied for a better job in PP where his family and daughter are. It is also with VSO but he’d be in a better position and would earn more money. I hope he gets the job.
Then is the question what happens here in ST when he’s gone. Daniel asked me if his position could be covered by Channa, to use the money we could save eg. to build toilets. Initially I said that I can’t imagine Channa taking over Hor’s job. He is only 21 and just got promoted in his English school, where he teaches. He is a very hard worker, but it might be too much for him. Although I could do most of Hor’s work maybe, I am not familiar at all with all that finance business. But maybe I could learn from it. The project most likely finishes in 2 years and there won’t be more significant changes I think. And once the new volunteer arrives we might can share responsibilities. Her name is Caroline and she’ll arrive in October this year and will work with me taking over the role as Preceptor Advisor. I cover this role at the moment, together with the TDA role.
The reason of thinking so hard about it is, that we really need the money.

So because of Hor’s absence and Channa has some holiday, I am on my own for 3 days in the office, surrounded by all those men.

Another man came to visit Stung Treng for a 1 week workshop here. My good friend Eric Otieno.

With him I did a motorbike trip ( I drove 30 km) to a fresh water whole.
The name is Russey Khandal.
It was absolutely
indescribable beautiful and just bliss.
It has been re-discovered by Otienos Organisation Mlup Baitong and so he knew the way and the place.
The water apparently is so clear, that you can drink from it. I didn’t. But I lay in that nice cool water and enjoyed it so much.
Afterwards we got rained on of course and waited for the rain to stop in one of the huts there. We met 3 little girls and they had stickers and put them on my bag. In return, I gave them chewing gum.
They were so sweet. Apparently not related to each other.

It was also very handy to have Eric around. He repaired the water pipe at my house, talked to my landlady about my broken toilet seat and made her repair it because he can speak Khmer very well.

On Monday, the 13th of July, my little 9 day adventure started. I got up early at 3:30 to take a minivan to Kratie to have two days of supervision in the hospital there. It was a weird moment then, because the minivan was just about to start when a woman said, that she had an Insect in her ear and she couldn’t get it out. It must be normal here, nearly everybody in the van had then a try to take it out. One was holding a torch and another one had a toothpick or something and I couldn’t watch but they were fiddling with her ear about 10 minutes without success. A woman suddenly got some liquid out and persuaded the woman with the insect to put this liquid into her ear. Just then another man was at the ear and the woman was obviously in pain. Fortunately they decided to call a Doctor and we drove with the minivan full of people to that doctor, at 4 o’clock in the morning. After another 10 minutes she came out and the insect was gone. So we drove for 2 ½ hours to Kratie where I met Channa, the clinical Instructor and the Regional Chief Nurse, Sethyll. We had breakfast together and then went to the hospital.


After talking to the director, who wasn’t very interested at all, we went to the wards. All preceptors where not prepared and most of them didn’t actually know that we were coming. So it was more or less a disaster. Everybody was grumpy and I felt that it was pointless. We departed the next day after lunch.
I stayed with Emily in Kratie, another volunteer from VSO ( she is dutch) who is there now for nearly 2 years. She works as a Nurse Advisor in the hospital and things are going well for her. She even thinks of extending her stay. She is great fun and my age!

So on that Tuesday I had the afternoon off and decided, to see the dolphins, Kratie is so famous for. Emily organised her landladies daughter to come with me and drive me basically to the place with her moto, where the boats go out to see them. She was only 14 but so confident and sweet and we were both exited, when we started. Unfortunately, on the way there it started to rain. By the time we got to the boat, a heavy monsoon developed and no boat went of course. So we were standing in the cold rain and strong wind for about an hour and then decided to go back once the rain got less. I haven’t felt so cold for a long time. My toes and fingers felt stiff because I was so wet and cold. It was disappointing that I haven’t seen the dolphins but I will return one day and hopefully have more luck.

In the evening, we went to see Joe. Joe is the owner of a restaurant in Kratie and he is originally from Chicago, but now in Cambodia for over 11 years. He cooks brilliant food and usually drinks during the day. But he is a lovely guy. So we had great fun that night.

On Wednesday morning, we got picked up from the minivan with all the other Health volunteers from Stung Treng inside. We were on our way to Siem Riep to attend to the Health Sector Workshop. That is for all VSO Health volunteers from Cambodia. It was twice a year but now that there are financial crisis’s at VSO too, they reduce it to annual. It was organized by 3 other volunteers. Attended volunteers work as Dietician, Nurse Advisor, Hospital Management Advisor, Health Advisor, Behaviour and Communication Advisor, Midwife Advisor and me, the only TDA and PA.
We all stayed at Smilyes Guesthouse

and the workshop was in the Angkor Hospital for children. A great hospital. Better then any other I’ve seen so far. It is based on donations, so the Cambodian government hasn’t got anything to do with it. Children get free treatment and there are enough drugs and beds available. Per day, they see around 800 to 1000 children. Not all of them get admitted. They also have facilities of following the children up at home.
I felt great to give something for the first time, when I donated blood there. I will do that regularly from now on.
The two day workshop was ok. I didn’t get that much out of it and it was more fun then having serious health discussions or learning something from it. So that’s why I put myself forward in doing the next one. We’ll see…
It was great to see all the other volunteers and exchange information and see what they do. Due to my short stay so far, of course I didn’t have much to say about me, but I can see what is possible and what not.

Siem Riep is a great place.

It looks clean and there are even traffic lights for pedestrians. In the evening, it is not allowed anymore to drive around with the moto. It is a good tourist destination and next time when I have more time, I’ll go to Angkor Wat. Hopefully with one of you guys!
After the first day, we had a little programme where people did together a little bit of entertainment. We were at a nice restaurant but the prices of food started at 3 to 4 dollars. Usually I go for something that is around 1 to 2 dollars. So it was a great relief, when Susan said, that Daniel would pay for all of us a dish for 5 dollars. That was nice of him. So I had delicious Vietnamese fish with rice.
Entertainment wise I was hooked up with Susan and Ruth ( who was a guest) and Ruth just bought an umbrella the same day. Not knowing what to do, I thought this umbrella would be a nice limbo stick. So that’s what we did. Everybody who knows me knows that limbo and polonaise are one of my specialities. I think I did everybody’s back in, including mine. But it was great fun.


The last day in Siem Riep I had some time for myself and I was walking around in the early morning to find a bus station and a ticket. Even very early is just so much to see there. For example a shop where they sell things made from crocodile skin. I went in just to have a look and it was horrifying amazing.
Out of an impulsive! decision, I booked myself for an appointment at 10 am for a khmei massage. It wasn’t my intention to do it, but then I got weak by seeing the offer $4 for 1 hour massage and I thought I could try that out. Usually it is 6 to 10 $, so it was a good price. It was a big building and first of all a young girl came and washed my feet. That was a good idea because feet here are always dirty and dusty due to only wearing flip flops all day. Then we got onto the 3rd floor and she showed me a darkish room with two mattresses on the floor. At the end were clothes. She advised me to take my clothes off and put the others on. It was a very thin large white blouse and a very thin large black linen trouser. After I changed, she came in again and started sitting next to me, massaging my back. Suddenly she sat on me and massaged rather hard all of my back and shoulders. Then she massaged my legs for ages and made also different exercises with it, and then she did a foot massage. I was in heaven by then. But if that was not all, she then made me turn over and proceeded with my arms and hands and finished everything with a head massage. I was really happy that I gave it a go, because that was the best massage I ever had (sorry for all the other people who gave me once one, you were good too!).

On my way back to Stung Treng I popped into Otieno’s new house. He moved and I helped him a little bit tidying and stuff. He has more mice then I have. He also cut my hair and it looks great now. So I have like a bob now, well still half long.

So now I’m back in Stung Treng and it feels good to be back. Feels home.

22.07.09

After having had my first day back at work, I feel also good, although I didn’t want to come back first. But I had a successful meeting with the promoted Chief of Clinical Office Dr. Sovann and he gave me promising feedback and he also will work fast on my suggestions. So I have the feeling it’s rolling again.


23.07.09

I also have my first visitor coming! Hurray! Carmi was brave enough to book a flight from London Heathrow to Seoul and from Seoul to Phnom Penh. She’ll arrive on the 21st of December and will depart unfortunately again on the 2nd of January. But at least we’ll spend Christmas and New Year together. So much looking forward to that!
But still too little time. Whenever you want to come, try to plan at least 3 weeks. Because it is a struggle with the jetlag and a lot to take in once you arrive. So two weeks exhaustion and one week enjoying. But I can’t complain, I’ve got a visitor!!!


Still feeling very homesick. Although I am here now for nearly 3 month, it nearly made me cry when I found a pair of socks today I haven’t warn and I could smell on it the conditioner I used at home. It smelled of home.

I want to finish this rather long blog again with some gentle remainders. If you want to do a fundraise and don’t know for what, let me know. If you want to give a donation but don’t know for what, let me know. Even little amounts can help and you’ll see for what because I can document each step where the money is going to.

Also if you want to send something to me in particular, I need again Mosquito repellent and everything else you might think I need. I live with the minimum and am happy about everything now. Music, Books, Clothes, Stationary…
Thank you for following me up and thinking of me. Keep in touch! Katja



permalink written by  katja-horsch on July 23, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: 06.-23.07.09
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29.06.-06.07.09

Phnom Penh, Cambodia


Hi guys! How are you?

I am in my second month far away from you and familiar environment.
So far I can say that it is great and I’m really enjoying myself.
The language is still a problem though, I need to crack on and find a teacher or learn myself. I can go to the market and understand numbers and am able to have a conversation with hand and feet, but it is still too little and some people who know me now a bit find it quit frustrating not to be able to communicate properly.


This week not much happened so far. I applied for the money ( $ 40.000) from an organisation called ‘ Guernsey Overseas Aid Committee. I cross everything I have, to maybe get funding to build a new building for student accommodation.
Without your help David, the proposal wouldn’t have been so good and neat. So thank you for your help and commitment and I am sorry for a sleepless night. For my purpose you went to your workplace office because the internet didn’t work at home, just to e-mail me my draft back. And that was at 3 o’clock at night and you had to work the next day. I won’t forget that! You are a star star star!

Also I’m preparing myself for 2 supervision trips in the next two weeks. Next week we will go again with the Regional Chief Nurse to Kratie and the week afterwards to Chhlong for a couple of days each. After Chhlong I’m going straight to Siem Riep to attend to the Health Sector Workshop. So there are exiting weeks ahead.
And that means also planning.
Work goes slow this week. Although I should train the teachers, they are all very busy. I think they make funny excuses because they don’t want to have more work. One or two are really nice and seek help and advice all the time.

Today, Thursday, one teacher wanted me to help him performing a class demonstration on Friday, on wet-to-dry dressing. Yes that’s how it is called.
This one skill performance, as they teach it in the RTC to the students, is from America and has been translated into Khmei language by the RTC teachers a few years ago. There are 27 of those Checklists and the teachers train the students how to do it and how to follow from those checklists in the RTC first. Then the students have to transfer those skills into the hospital. The preceptors responsibility is to make sure, that the student follows always the guideline/ checklist with whatever they do.
Those checklists have a very high standart.
The problem is, that the RTC teachers are actually not quite sure about what certain things mean on the original. So some points are very unclear translated and the result is dodgy teaching and make the students confused.
The next problem is in the hospital. Because the checklists involve a lot of material use, the ward can’t provide that material because it’s just not available. So the students can’t perform the way they should and get bad marks or even fail on assessment. Also some preceptors have never done some procedures as the checklist instructs so they are confused about it.
I discussed that problem with some teachers and they can see the problem but don’t know what to do about it.
I talked through the wound dressing procedure whith the teacher and clarifyed all unclear points. Then I demonstrated the dressing on a pillow on top of a dummy with some teaching material from the RTC. I asked him beforehand if no other teachers did it before and he said, yes they did but they are also not sure how to do it following the checklist.


We have July now and the time flys. I start to be part of this town and country. Think less and less about my ‘old life’. I don’t know if that is normal but it might be.
Two years seemed endless at the beginning, but now I start to realize that I don’t have much time left.
I really love my house, relaxing in my hammock and watching the palmtrees and the sky. I love the rattling noise of the palmtree leaves when wind shakes them. Thinking about things. I never really had time for that. I realise that now. It’s great to go with the flow and make things for myself. That’s what I always wanted. To have an easy life and be happy. Only that there are a few things missing to make it complete.
I am also inspired by the book I’m reading at the moment. It’s called: “Yes, man”, by Danny Wallace. There was a film out but I didn’t watch it. The book is really good and I laugh a lot.
I also sleep a lot. Every night more then 8 hours. Have I ever slept so much in my life? Not in the last 10 years. I usually go to bed around 9 pm and wake up at 6:30. I also have sometimes a nap during my lunchbreak. Mostly because of the heat.

But of course I also miss familiar environment, close friends and family. At the moment I can’t imagine how it would be to live again at ‘home’ in Oxford. It feels so far away. It is like having a barrier in between. I feel close again when I receive e-mails or letters.
I guess what I miss most are my nieces Matilda and Sophia. Matilda is now 2 years and 10 month old and she speaks English, German and now even some French! Sophia is now 6 month old and is the the sweetest baby on earth.
Am always in my thoughts with you!

Carmi, you are crazy. I’m fully equipped now with series 1&2 from the ‘Inbetweeners’ on DVD and another UK magazine to keep me up to date. I hope you come and visit me over Christmas as you said. That would be absolutely amazing. At this time is also the yearly ‘Ankor Marathon’ and I will find out about what date it is exactly. It is basically running a marathon – 5, 10 or 20 km through the ruins of Ankor Wat. I’d like to try it as well, although you are much more in form then me. I’ll find out!

Yesterday on Sunday we’ve celebrated Delia’s Birthday one week earlier because she is going to Austria in a couple of days and won’t have her Birthday here. So we organised a surprise party for her, actually Helen did. Everybody brought great food and Helen even made an ice-cream chocolate birthday cake

and her absolutely delicious pizza. She also prepared punsh with self-made wine! That’s why I feel slightly hung over today. We had great fun from 5 until 9pm. We also danced because I brought my laptop with speakers.

The plans for this week have changed. I’m not going to Kratie anymore due to no Clinical Instructor is available. So one more week in ST and the RTC. The following week I might also not go to Chhlong, but defenitely to Siem Riep for the Health Sector Workshop.

I am exited to know that there is a family reunion in France this week and I wanted to let you know that I am strongly thinking of you and will try to contact you this week.
Hopefully we will be able to skype with camera and all that. Wished I could be there.


Take care everyone! Yours Katja




permalink written by  katja-horsch on July 9, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: 29.06.-06.07.09
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ST at the end of June

Phnom Penh, Cambodia


Wednesday

My week started by going straight back into another Hospital to do supervision of preceptors. This time in my home hospital in Stung Treng together with Channa, his first time we were officially doing something outside the RTC.
It felt ok, due to my previous experience in Ratanakiri. Together with also a new clinical instructor Mr. Vann, we struggled through two and a half days of observation and talking.

Struggled because, the preceptors here were far less prepared and motivated to give a good performance. I think I nagged them a bit and wanted to repeat their performance when it was really bad. So I talked a lot to them, repeated myself constantly and I hope it was helpful.
Otherwise it was great to be so close to the other volunteers like Delia and Helen who work opposite the hospital in the PHD (provincial health department) and to be at the other side of town where more things are going on, eg. there is the market and shops and so on.

Today I was even a vet, giving “Stinki” , Kathy’s cat who is now at Delia’s, an i.m.- injection for not getting pregnant. She was a very brave cat and I love her already.

Otherwise not much is going on, housework, reports to write, catching mice…

Thursday
Actually it hasn’t rained for the last three days. Everybody is longing for it. It is very hot and sticky at the moment. I am sure then when it comes, then properly.

This morning I had breakfast with Helen and Delia and Queeni, who visits Delia from Kratie and is also a nutrition advisor. We met at the Vietnamese noodle place and it was as always very tasty.

Then Delia and me went to the hospital again. She wanted me to check a Blood sugar measurement machine. It didn’t work. Needs replacement unfortunately. There are two of those machines, both broken. The whole hospital is now without. It is unbelievable. Patients need to have a proper blood test now to know how their blood sugar is. It’s pretty bad. When I compare to the UK how many Blood sugars we take and so easily without thinking about where to get supply from and who repairs the machine. There are lots of hidden diabetes patients here. Even I can see that.
And we actually don’t know who will pay for replacement…

Then I went to the RTC and unfortunately Hor didn’t feel well and went home. He felt very sleepy and had a headache. I hope he hasn’t got Dengue fever…

In my lunch break I got a little surprise, because in my bathroom sink was a Scorpio sitting. I panicked a bit and then called Delia. She calmed me down and we were thinking how we could kill it. I was nearly going to crush it with the other end of my floor brush, but I just couldn’t do it. So she asked if my landlady wasn’t around. I went out to see and there she was. I must have looked a bit out of order, because she came running. When she saw it she laughed at me, got a piece of wood from outside and killed it for me. Then she took it with her. I was relieved.

When I arrived at the RTC a bit earlier then usual, some students were there, talking to me. Because of the English classes they know me now and also from the visits at their accommodation. Two in particular are very interested in me and always talk to me. One is a very shy boy, I should know his name by now but am to embarrassed to ask again. The girl, her name is Sareth, always smiles at me and is very curious about me. Last night, when I had just my washing finished and also cooking, I was quit sweaty and was just about to throw my vegetable waste over the riverbank. Everybody does that, the cows will have it later when they stroll along. So I looked a bit not so good. And then those student nurses where on their bicycles, standing there on the road waiting for somebody. It was coincidence that it was her as well and she started of course a chat.
So today she asked me if she could come and visit me in my house. I thought that was a lovely idea. So on Saturday at 12.00 and they would like to eat English food. What shall I cook? Maybe spaghetti, maybe beans on toast? Got a holy tin from PP for special moments. Or maybe potatoes and veg and meat? Well, I decide later.

So after Sareth asked me for my contact details, everybody else wanted them. I only gave it to 4 other girls and the boy. They said they all want to come and visit me. So I better be prepared for that. I thought I’ll make a party one day and invite them all.

In the afternoon I was fairly proud of myself because I found out how to do a slide show with window power point. All by myself I prepared a presentation via slide show. I think would have never found out like that, but here is enough time.

And Mr. Vann told me that I am bossy. We laughed it off.

Did I tell you already about the fire? There was a fire in town near the market today. At least 5 houses burned down. I went to see it after work and it was shocking.

Those families lost everything, and insurance or something equal doesn’t exist. The gossip is that in the restaurant at lunchtime was only one pregnant woman cooking and in the pan was too much oil and it caught somehow fire. Because she was the only one, she couldn’t get help soon enough and the fire spread very quickly. Next to it was a private clinic of the hospital director, burned also down and some shops. Terrible.

In the evening I enjoyed brown rice, which I brought from PP with mixed veg and sauce. I watched a DVD – Charles Wilson’s war- which I somehow liked because of the actors ( Tom Hanks and Julia Roberts) and then I got a long SMS from Sareth. Which sounded like this: hi what are you doing? Are you going to have holiday this year? Are you doing anything this weekend? Tomorrow you go to a party. Do you like Khmer music? Do you like Khmer food? When do you get up? Where do you normally go for holiday? What do you eat tonight? When do you go to bed, I hope you sleep very well. From me sareth.

I just hope that all the others who have my number now will not bombard me in the same way. So I answered that I will try to answer all her questions on Saturday when she comes around.


Louisa’s b-dparty was great.

I had my first lessons in khmei dance and Louisa cooked very nice food. Also there was a Karaoke machine! And everybody who knows me knows also, that I Love Karaoke. I also brought some balloons and we did “balloon dance” and “statue dance”. That means if the music stopps, everybody has to freeze. And we had a real birthday-cake brought from Kratie by Queenni and yummy self made chocolate and coconut ice-cream, made by Helen. Hor and Tiri were there, Hor is better, Channa my VA and Chantra, who lives downstairs with his mum. Also the VSO crew Louisa, Evic, Delia, Queeni and me.
Holly is in PP this weekend. We partied until midnight. It was great. Finally a real Paaaady.

On Saturday morning, I met first Delia for breakfast at the market at 8 am. We had those tasty cold noodles with chilli. Then we went and had our toenails painted, as it is common here.

It was done by a Cambodian girl whose business it is and she just went to Vietnam to have eyebrows and lip liner tattooed.
At 9 I met with Tiri to get some smarter clothes for work. It was difficult to find something in my size, but then I found a blouse in size 42 which just about fitted. I also got a great view at the market and discovered the clothes section which I hadn’t before. Also I got a cool blue T-shirt which Tiri said, I could also wear atwork.

Then I went shopping in preparation for the student girls from the RTC, who wanted to be at my house by 12 noon. When I arrived at my house at 10:45, there they were sitting already! Sareth, Parim and Shry mom. So they came in and asked me, if they could help me with the cooking.
First we chatted a bit and I gave them some of the magazines, Carmen sent me. More and Closer. They really liked them and looked at everything very close and wanted explanation.
I decided on Spaghetti with Tomato sauce, so I explained first that it is an European dish, coming from Italy. They never heard of Italy.
Unfortunately I couldn’t get real spagetti, so I used some Khmei flat egg noodles.
For the sauce, I somehow had in my head to make the sauce smooth - I need to grate the tomatoes through a sieve. So I first boiled the tomatoes as seen at Sheila’s, then peeled them and rubbed them through a sieve into the wok. Together with onions and garlic, s&p, it simmered a bit and then we added fresh basil, which I love here.
We ate on the balcony and when I asked if they wanted some chilli sauce, they all put lots of it onto their portions. They found the dish delicious.
I didn’t know for how long they wanted to stay, but then they wanted to watch a DVD. I asked what kind of film they like, love storys or something like that? No, action films. I borrowed some DVD’s from Delia and had only “Get smart” and “Tropic Thunder”. So we watched first “Get smart” until it stopped working and then “Tropic Thunder”. Yeah, and then they disappeared after 4pm.
They were very nice and I hope we can come together another time. I really would like to teach them some more English or just I don’t know, be there for them.

In the evening I got an invitation from Delia to come along and have something to eat.
There were also Queenie, Louisa and Evic. We had Gin and Tonic! Wow, that was a great treat. The bottle came from Delias mum, when she visited her last year. It was a great chill out dinner and Delia and me had quit a good chat.

Today, Sunday

I really wanted to sleep long today. But at 5:30 the rooster woke me up, then some people started hacking some wood and then somebody else was making noise from the street. Because my bedroom has only a thin wooden wall I can hear literally everything. I stayed in bed and read until 9. Then I got up and I didn’t have any water from the taps nor from the shower or toilet. Great. My landlady wasn’t there but a bloke helped me to figure out the water pump at the house.
Then I made a lampshade for the kitchen from the cans we had last night.

I started doing little bowls and stuff with it, just cut them and staple together. The waste we make with those cans, I can’t stand.
I’ll make more lampshades next time.

Otherwise I’ll go to the hospital in the afternoon and hang around for a bit there I thought, that they get used to me. Maybe next time, they’ll ask me to do something with or for them…

And then Internet- café and blogging! Takes always quite a time until all pictures are uploaded and so on.

Tomorrow I try to finish my proposal for a French aid organisation who wants to support Cambodia with $ 40.000. Cross fingers that we get the money!
I really want to try to get a new building for student accommodation.
Nevertheless, I still count on your support and maybe that you consider some fund raising ?

Antji and John, got your parcel. The mosquito repellent is perfect! The chocolate was half eaten by mice and very melted…. Thank you so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



permalink written by  katja-horsch on June 28, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: ST end of June
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Ratana kiri and Kampong Thom

Phnom Penh, Cambodia


My visit to Ratana kiri and Kampong Thom 15. -21.06.2009

After I arrived in ST from PP on Sunday, my landlady came and brought me lunch. Khmei food. That made me really happy. Although we can’t understand each other, she makes me feel welcome.
In the evening, we were saying farewell to Joelle in her house in ST. It was a great party with lots of lively Khmei people there. We even tried to dance like them, until the power was cut off and we had to light candles to carry on partying without music.
Even my little Channa was tipsy, because he brought Rice wine from Laos and I forced him to drink it with me. Then a thunderstorm came and we went home. Wet.

On Monday morning, I started packing and went again to the RTC to get some documents about previous preceptor supervision in Rat. After that I decided, to carry on and cycle to the “Mekong blue”, one kilometre away from the RTC, were they grow the precious silk from silkworms.
There I met a guy named Makara, and he gave me the full tour.
It’s a really big complex, and they have everything you need to produce breathtaking silk material. When I saw the silkworms, I had to think of my sweet niece Tilda, who got silkworms from her father ones and she always wanted to give them more then four leaves per day. Wonder what happened to them, can you tell me John?
I’ll definitely be back there. They even have a kindergarten for the children of the women who work there. It is a lovely place. At the end I bought a little purse made of silk.


Then I waited for the car, Hor told me that we’ll travel with Sytills car. He is the regional chief nurse (RCN), the one were my sunglasses got stolen from his desk.

When they arrived at 2:30, there was also Tiri in the car, Hor’s wife. I was really happy. She is so lovely. I was starting to joke that in England they recommended to take a sports bra to Cambodia because of bumpy roads. At the beginning it was ok, although only sand road. But then, it just got worse and worse. We probably drove 20 km/h ( our neighbours in England would say 20 is plenty) for an hour or so and then the rain started and we slowed down even more. But finally we arrived in Ratanakiri and were looking for a place to stay. VSO pays $6 per night, so Sytill and me were staying in a guesthouse and Hor and Tiri stayed at Hor’s brother, who lives here with his family.

In the evening, we were invited to his brother’s house and had traditional Khmei dinner together. It was great. Everybody sits on the floor and we had like a hot stove. So on there we put vegetable and beef meat. With it chicken soup and rice. Really delicious. And the relatives were so friendly.

The next day, Sytill and me met downstairs and then we drove to a restaurant to have breakfast with Hor and Narem, who is a clinical Instructor from ST RTC and also part of the preceptor supervision visit in the Referral hospital. I had baguette and eggs. Was really good and a change to the usual breakfast noodle soup. Then we headed to the hospital. There, we first met the director and exchanged polite words.
Then we met the first preceptor, based on a paediatric ward. The task was to facilitate a certain skill, she choose measuring temperature, based on the nursing curriculum.
And that the student learns from it of course.

So we observed and then gave constructive feedback afterwards. Altogether we saw 2 preceptors that morning and it was fun.
The patients on the other hand really poorly. Also the whole hospital setting and surroundings are so middle aged.
I had the whole time a big blob in my throat when patients and relatives looked at me with sad eyes, like they were saying: please help! Fortunately I have the feeling that if I tried to engage with them and gave them a smile, they smiled back and it felt slightly better.

When Sytill and me went back for lunch, to the same restaurant we had breakfast, I seriously said to him that I want to work one day at the weekend in the hospital in ST, just to be there for patients who have nobody for example who comes and visits them.
I don’t know why he doesn’t like the idea. It’s like talking against something when I start it. Like he doesn’t want to hear it.
We had fish and chicken soup and then I had a sleep for one hour. Afterwards I felt really refreshed and ready for more action. So we went back into the hospital and saw 2 more preceptors.
Afterwards, Sytill said that they did generally better then he thought they were doing. That surprised me. I thought it was the other way around. Well, I thought I’ll give each of them individual points they can work on in future.

I was telling Hor and Sytill about the lake and that I really wanted to go swimming there. So in the afternoon, we decided to do so and we headed back to the hotel, got the swim costumes, towels and some drinks and went to the lake.

It was really beautiful. Because it was a cold and cloudy day, the water colour wasn’t nice. Apparently it is crystal blue usually, but never mind. The water was lush.
Sytill was asking if I wanted to go over there to change dresses, and I didn’t quite understand what he meant, so I said yes, because I thought he meant something like a place to change into your swim suit. When we arrived, there was a house and Hor was talking something about “looking like the Ethnics”. We went into that house and Tiri started to undress. I thought I can change now, but then a woman appeared and wrapped a coloured piece of cloth around me and then I started to understand.


It was so much fun. You can see it at those silly pictures.

And then finally we went swimming in the beautiful scenery of the volcanic lake.
The rain started ever so slightly to drizzle and Hor and me did those games, who can hold the breath under water longest and diving farest and so on. With Sytill I jumped into the water, one after the other, and then we drank Angor beer with straws. It was an unforgettable moment and how I wished, that you could have been there as well.
When the rain became stronger and a thunderstorm was about to arrive, we went home to have dinner and guess where, the restaurant, where I had also breakfast and lunch. Hor told me that Sytill always goes there when he is in Rat., because he thinks, food there is the best. And I don’t disagree.

Sytill ordered even wine. He is a dodgy man, somehow very difficult to read. I still don’t feel that the ice between us has broken, although we did all those childish things today. Funny p.

We actually wanted to top the evening by going to a karaoke bar, but Tiri had a bad headache so we went back to the hotel. Hope she’ll feel better tomorrow.

On Wednesday, we had breakfast, then 2 more supervisions in the hospital. The plan was, that the others wanted to go home in the afternoon and I wanted to stay until Sunday.
But because it was raining more or less all the time and I did the lake and also the other volunteer from Rat. didn’t have time to see me, I decided to go back home with them. I would have felt left alone, because I had so much fun with Hor and Tiri and Sytill.

On the way back in the afternoon, we visited a waterfall. We passed a bamboo-clad valley and went then to the Ka Chhang falls, just 10m high,

with a pool for taking a dip.
We didn’t have much time and the water looked very brown, so that was fine with me. Then we sledded back to Stung Treng, because it was raining and the roads made of red sand.

Then I decided to go and see my friend Eric, who likes to be called by his african name: Otieno, in Kampong Thom whom I met first when I arrived in PP. KT used to be known as “place of the big snake”, apparently because the locals used to take offerings to a large snake which lived in a cave on the river, though this may be yet another Cambodian myth as no one now has a clue where the cave is. That’s what my book says.
So I had a few days to see another province. It lies in the heart of Cambodia actually.

The bus ride took around 8 hours and when I arrived on Thursday afternoon, we had some of the famous Stung Treng Coffee ( it tastes a little bit of chocolate and every volunteer in ST is crazy about it) and cake, together with his elderly landlady, he lives with. Oti also has a big house like me, with guestroom and veranda. But he hasn’t got the view onto the river.
He works for VSO but with another NGO called ‘Mlup Baitong’. He works in Livelihood sector, has to do with foresting and farming. I admire his braveness to be black and so confident. Because also for Cambodians it is strange to see somebody so black. And also to see somebody so white. And when we walked together, they were staring and laughing at us.
Otieno is lovely. Although he has three sons already at home he kind of adopted a Cambodian girl and supports her when he can. He also gives a contribution to a very poor family near to his house. And he is still able to save up some money each month to support his family at home. He has a very big heart.
On Friday, we went to see “Sambor Prei Kuk” one of the major temple sites. It is the site of a Chenla-era capital that once boasted hundreds of temples, although many to them have now been lost, perhaps smothered by the encroaching forest. Several temple groups have been cleared, and particularly fine brick carvings and decorated sandstone lintels and columns can be seen.

The history of those temples goes back to the late sixth century,
when Cambodia consisted of numerous small states.
The temple divides into three main sections and we got lost in that big area.
It was so hot that I got really bad sunburns on my knees from the ride and on my neck. Of course I forgot my sun cream.
In the evening, I received my first motorbike lessons. It was great. Never did it before, so after he explained everything to me, I could imagine what to do and with his instructions, I suddenly rode the bike. It was a great feeling, until it started to rain and I slipped on something on the road while taking the corner and we fell over into the dirt. Really embarrassing it was, because it happened on a little market place. I only got a few scratches and blue stains, Oti was fine fortunately, and the bike too. Then I was scared to do it again, but I was animated to carry on. When I tried the next day, it felt much better already, more confident.

On Saturday we went swimming in a little pool nearby his house which I enjoyed very much. Then we visited another pagoda
and had dinner together. I went early to bed in preparation of the long early journey back to Stung Treng the next day.

So I had to take the taxi first to Kampong Cham. In the Taxi we were 7 people. Me and three others in the back, one of the women was very pregnant and 3 in the front. That means 2 on the passenger’s seat, squeezed together for 2 and a half hours. I missed the first bus going to Stung Treng so I had to wait for another 2 hours in KC.


The bus was really full and the aircon didn’t work, so it felt like being in a sauna. Each time the driver used the brakes I could smell burned rubber. Next to me was a woman who started talking to me. Usually Cambodians are very shy but also very curious. So she asked my name. Then my age and then if I was married yet. When I denied she couldn’t understand it and repeated that she wished for me to get married as soon as possible. Then she tried to recommend her brother to me and her friend. Well, what could I say. I tried to be very polite and declined. Then she took my hand and asked me if it was my real skin colour. I said yes and she was surprised, because she thought I would use whitening cream like all Cambodian women use to look more beautiful. It was really funny.

The bus broke down of course and I thought from hearing the crackling engine, that was it. The engine is stuck and we can’t carry on. But the amazing thing is that the bus driver again was able to fix it. No idea how. So after 30 minutes, everybody could come in again and off we went.

It was starting to get dark when I arrived and a thunderstorm was coming up. I tried to find a moto driver to bring me home because the rain started already.

But no one was in sight. Suddenly a moto stopped next to me and a girl asked me if she could give me a lift. That was so sweet. She knows me from the RTC, she is a student there. So she brought me home before the thunderstorm got worse. And that is what I really appreciate and makes me be comfortable and feeling home.

Also when I arrived I had a good feeling of being back in my house. It feels familiar and save. And after a quick catch up with Delia and Helen on the phone, I realized that I’m having a great time here so far and that I’m really lucky to have had my placement offer in Cambodia.
It is a great start for volunteering and living and working in a developing country.

Now, I just want to ask or remember, that if you want to do something good, you could do some fundraising anytime. For example at work, if you ask colleagues to donate even only £ 1 or Euro 1 each and collect it and send it to me, it will make a difference. Please consider it. When I come next year for a visit, I’ll bother you with that. In the JR, girls, maybe you want to put your mark onto the RTC by donating for some water filters for example or maybe even we could improve poorly conditions of student nurses by buying a toilet for them or materials/ equipment for teaching. If you have some money, maybe even some watches for nurses would be a great help. Some students are so poor, they can’t even afford to buy a watch.
I am here, so it won’t get lost. Please contact me for your positive answer.




permalink written by  katja-horsch on June 22, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Ratana kiri and Kampong Thom
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meeting in PP

Phnom Penh, Cambodia


On Monday, I met Holly and Joelle at 7 am at the market and we had breakfast together, it’s called Ban som and it is like a sweet chilli dish with yummy soft thick noodles and something else I couldn’t identify so far. Holly is another volunteer, who works in Livelyhoods but was in PP for the last month, having had holiday and visitors and a workshop to prepare. She is 23 I think and I hope to know her a bit better with the time.
Then Channa and me met at 7:30 at the bank to get our card to use the ATM machine. When I received it, they asked me if I know how to use it. Well, I did.

I then went to work and found myself in the middle of 10 RTC teachers, all male. Because the office has moved, we are now in the big meeting room, forming an U-shape with our desks. Facing each other. On the other side I have the feeling it is better for communication and getting to know each other. This is only temporary until we move into the new building, which they build on for nearly 2 years already.
In our old office they just knock the walls down and make another classroom out of it.

In the afternoon I developed an annual Refresher booklet for Preceptors. This was an idea to decrease costs for another workshop to be held for all 40 preceptors who had already training. It now must be approved by the RTC, VSO and Kadoorie and the MoH. So it can take ages until being used properly.
I also helped translating some nursing knowledge into Khmei language.


In the evening I met a rather grumpy guy from Oxford!. It felt good to talk about good old Oxi and places in and around England.
But I realised also, that talking about going clubbing and all that, I don’t miss it. Thinking about wearing high heels feels somehow abstract to me now. It just doesn’t fit to being here. My world are flip flops now and flat sandals. If I think how many shoes I have at home and handbags and clothes in general, and how much I have here and I live fine. Finally I realize how little I actually need and how unimportant certain things are, which just cost money. I can see how being here will have a big influence in my live.

I said that before I came and I am totally aware of it, and at the end it is up to me what I do with it, but I am glad to have the opportunity of new ways of thinking and being.

On Wednesday, I joined in the morning the same English class then I’ve joint already once last week. I could see a change already. They were all quiet and tried to listen to me. I try to talk to them as interactive as possible and wrote every more or less uncommon word onto the whiteboard. I also tried to motivate them again to become a very good nurse and learn as much as possible about nursing in order to give the best care they can. I think that they understand the importance of English now as well, because this time even the hip boys at the back were listening and asking questions. I really liked it though.
In my lunchbreak I went to Joelle’s place and then we had lunch together at their local restaurant.

Also Holly and her friend ( who visits her at the moment), were there. We had Eel-soup. Yes the fish. It was nice actually.

Then I had a quick shower and back to work. Then a clinical instructor, Narem is his name asked me, if I could show him how we do wound sutures in England. Well, me as the wound sewing expert ( never did some in my whole life) improvised. Due to having had theatre experiences and surgical patient care, I know how they have to look. So we walked straight into a 3rd year student class and there I stood, in the front of the class, with the dummy on the bed, next to me a little table with some instruments, 3 teachers also, keen to know how we do it in England.
So I introduced myself first and then talked about pre procedure care and then prepared my tray. With also 30 students around me I stood in the afternoon sun, putting my sterile gloves on and started sewing some foam ages. When I did the 2 different styles of sewing I believed were ok, one of the Instructors asked me to show them another one. I couldn’t, so one instructor came and did a faboulus suture. He then said loudly: that’s how we do it in Cambodia. Everybody laughed loud. Well, I couldn’t deny that that was far better then my style ( but at the end of the day it’s all the same), but I agreed with him and encouraged to keep their style.
It wouldn’t have been so bad, if Narem wouldn’t have come to me afterwards, giving me a guideline about performing wound suture.
But it was real fun.

I have the feeling, sitting together in this big room broke the ice. Everybody greets me now and talks to me. Even two others asked me already some translating questions.

Later we have a meeting. Clinical instructors with VSO team. Will do a brainstorm session about our work relationship.

I like teaching. In England I was always very unsure and felt not very confident, but here I have the feeling, I will gain lots of teaching experience and confidence. Maybe I will lead my nursing career into a different direction. We’ll see. But I really like it so far.

The meeting with some of the teachers ( the same as clinical instructors) went well. I could really see that some are really interested and want to improve, others are not bothered at all. I tried to make them understand that I only have 2 years time and that I would apprichiate teamwork. They would like to give feedback to them and teach them new methods. I said that I’d like to sit in the class when they give a lesson to the students, so that I can give them afterwards individual feedback. Some liked it, some refused it. And that are the ones who are afraid of not being good enough. I reasured them that I would only sit and watch, I would’t even understand what they are saying in Khmei. But I think, even with only doing that, I can see what level of teaching the teacher is.
They also want me to teach them English language. Because some of them can’t speak at all, some speak very good, I’ll devide them into 2 groups and who doesn’t attend for 3 times without apologies is out.
I need to get some advise on that from somebody, because I never taught anybody any language. But somehow I am looking forward to that and I am sure it is possible.
In the evening we met and had "Ban Chow".



Thursday morning, Hor and me went to PP at 7:00 am by bus. Before I went to the busstation, I gave my Papaya to Helen, she wants to make some Papaya-Pineapple jam out of it and then to the bank. Still no money from VSO, and I have run out of money by now.

The busride was very long. At the end we were on the road for 9 hours. Khmei people love Karaoke, and all the way it was really loud Karaoke musik on the screen or they showed bloody war movies. Meanwhile the aircondition is really cold and blows very strongly.
We also overrolled a dog puppy. I saw it. It brought tears into my eyes. The busdriver was sad too. So many animals on the road. It is a constant horn noise to hear to make the way free.
Then after 5 hours, the bus made a horrible noise and somebody said, the wheel is broken. What amazed me was, that the busdriver was able to fix it in 25 minutes. It was the Keilriemen (don’t know the English word), that was broken.
We also stopped 3 times on the way and ate something. So I think, I finally had the sweet sticky rice in a bamboo stick, Shane was talking about. Got it in Kratie.

In PP, Hor introduced me to his family and his geogous baby daughter. I then went to the VSO office and met a few volunteers there. We went out for dinner and I had chips with ketchup. That was good. In that restaurant, I saw an old guy, sitting next to a beautiful khmei girl. She looked not older then 15. And suddently it became reality again that PP is also a city of sex tourism. I felt really sorry for that girl. Apparently, they get $20 for the act and $50, when she stays overnight. It makes me sad.

On Friday, we had the meeting and I think it was good. The director was on time and in a good mood. He talked openly and agreed to a few things. When he went at lunchtime, Daniel, Hor and me continued with project revision all afternoon until the evening. Hor is just so good in what he’s doing.

On Saturday, I mainly relaxed. Forgot to take my camera, so no pictures available.
I did all my shopping in two different supermarkets and even got fairy- lights. There are many people around in the VSO office at the moment due to different workshops.

Sunday, the Mini-van picked me up at 4:30. Hor and his wife were in there as well. Pleasant trip, it only took 7 hours.
This afternoon I’m going to prepare for preceptor supervision trip tomorrow. We’ll go most likley at 9 am, so not too bad. I am really looking forward to see Ratanakiri.

If you want to send something, then maybe black and herbal tea.

More from Ratanakiri. Am quite exhausted now. Hugs and Kisses to all of you!



permalink written by  katja-horsch on June 14, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: being here my second month now
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1.6.- 7.6. 09

Phnom Penh, Cambodia


Monday, 01 June 2009

Yesterday I’ve seen a real scorpio infront of Helens house. It was as big as my hand and black. We were just returning from the weekly “Banchow” place, which is next to Helens house. Banchow is a dish, it is a giant thin omlette filled with soja beans and some minced meat. You eat it rolled into different leaves with your hands after dipping it into a tasty sauce.
Scott had the honor to kill the scorpio because Helen was worried it might do harm to children running around her house. So he stood on it with his foot and then it was dead.

Talking about animals. Last night a noise kept me awake. Something scratchy next to me. When I had the guts to look what it was with my torch, I saw a giant cocroch at my window. Eventually, I overcame my disgust and pushed it out. I then went into the kitchen, that was all around midnight, and there it was. A giant rat sitting on the sink, jumping off when I came. I couldn’t see where it went.
In the morning, on the way to the bathroom, I had another heart attack. Suddently something jumped at me out of nowhere, and tried to escape through the gaps at the front door. It was a cat! No idear where it came from, but I hope, it ate the rat over night (Sorry Carmen).
I also have a lot of gekkos in the house on the wall and they make funny noises.

And every evening, a dog makes itself cosy on the front steps of the house. The doggy seems calm and harmless.

Otherwise my day at work was good. Had a meeting with the 2 English teachers who teach the students twice a week basic English. VSO supports them and I can sit and observe one of them tomorrow morning and give them feedback.
Then I discussed with them my idear, starting a choire. I wrote the word choire down, because they didn’t know what it was. So I explained it and they were really positiv about it. At the end of the meeting( which took 2 and a half hours), one of them pointed at the word choire like they never heard about it and asked me, what it means. At the end we decided it is like a band. Well, lets hope it will work out.

In the evening Delia and Scott came around and they put on my new hamock and it’s so cool. Lying in there and letting the time pass. It’s very comfi.

Tuesday

My day started by spending 2 hours in a class of more or less 30 student nurses, year 2. They were very shy and they were encouraged to ask me some questions.
It was strange to stand infront such a big class and shouting at them, that everybody can understand me. But it also felt natural and more and more I have the feeling, that I am getting used to it. So I told them something about me and then they asked me about nursing in Europe and so on. Some of them really try to speak well, some can’t speak anything, unfortunately. Then I sat at the back and joined the lesson of Mr. Voeun. He speaks funny broken English but it is ok. I feel like being the English expert here, having reports to correct and also they expect me to teach some English language to the clinical Instructors from the RTC. But I explained to everyone that it is only my second language and I’m not perfect in it. But so far to be honest, I feel confident with it.
In the English class we had some group discussion about what pets they used to have when they were younger. They were just in the process of learning when to use “use to”. So it was funny to hear, their pets were pigs and waterbuffalos.
All together it was great, apparently it is very rare that a foreigner speaks to them.

I will give Mr.Voeun some feedback on Friday. He had to go, doing more teaching somewhere else. I think he was good, tried to involve all of them and he also used different participatory approaches. It was just so noisy from outside and not all students pay attention at all times for 2 hours. So some disappear for a while in the middle of the discussion, some don’t have books and can’t follow, some do something else, like homework I thought.

In the afternoon, I prepared a little teaching session about ‘how do we learn and different learning styles’. I was asked to do teaching sessions for the clinical instructors and I think to start from the beginning it is important to understand about the learning process. Then they want me to show them some practical skills with equipment at some point.

On my way back from work I stopped at Helens because she wanted to give me something, Evic had left for me. It was a big Teddy bear. She had it in her house and thought, it can give my company in my house. The thought is very sweet.

In the evening it was raining heavily. After my portion of instant noodles, I went to bed early and closed the door to my bedroom. That night it was much better. I slept through and couldn’t hear any rat noise. There are defenitely still some buggers around, who nibble on my soap frequently.

Wednesday

In the morning we met at a Vietnamiese noodle place for breakfast. Delia was sad because she had to say goodbye to her sweetheart. It made me sad too. But she will see him again in a few months, so it is not too bad. Those noodles soups are so tasty.
Afterwards to work.
In the afternoon I’m going to the Wat because Helen will do a speech there. It is a HIV/ AIDS awareness, “candlelight” meeting , and they wear caps and t-shirts with the logo:
‘O.K. Condoms’ on it. Hilarious.

It was a great afternoon.

The Pagoda was full of students ( some also from the RTC) and we were sitting opposite them, being honoured to have attended. Also Helens VA Sambath was there and Luisas VA Wuddi. Helens speech was great. Afterward 3 other important people did speeches but it was more or less the same. We sat for nearly 3 hours on the floor, next to the monks who received some presents.

During the chanting of the monks, we did light our candles and prayed for the effected people.
The astonishing thing then was, that there actually were some people with HIV in the pagoda and they then had to come forward and then they received presents.
It had something really welcoming and open minded. In all their speeches they pointed out how important it is to include people with HIV and so on, but I was surprised about how open they handled it in reality.

Afterwards, Helen, Delia and me had “Banchow” and then a big thunderstorm

came so I went to Delia’s and looked through her DVD library. And I got a few good films. That will keep me occupied and my mind off feeling homesick.

Thursday

The Kadoorie project has been extended. That is good news. Daniel from the Programme office wanted to come to ST to talk about new activities and achievments, but the director can’t make that date. So, we will go to PP next week on Wednesday. I’m looking forward to that. Also it feels amazing to be actively there in decision making about a big project with lots of money involved. It is different from working on a ward directly or being somewhere in the field. This is more about developing the actual action plan. And it feels important and exciting to be part of it.
All day at work we did brainstroming about that meeting and we have now a good list of ideas to discuss in that meeting.
When I think about it, travelling for 9 hours to PP on Wednesday for a meeting on Thursday morning and then going back for 9 hours on Friday. But PP, the world of supermarkets and Internet- acess and post-offices!
In the evening, I killed 3 big coqurotches. I sprayed them with anti ants spray to death. I didn’t want to, but I am also afraid of them. It took me a time to push them onto a piece of paper and then throw them out of the window.

Friday

Well, I agreed on having a cleaner once during the week. Malynn is her name and she came for the first time this morning. I asked Channa to translate some instructions for me, because we can’t communicate yet. So when she arrived I gave her some pieces of paper where Channna wrote down in Khmei what I wanted to do with her. First of all I wanted to go to the bank with her to get some money. Then I wanted her to choose what she needs for cleaning at the market and I would pay for it.
Because I live around 1 km away from the market, I took her on my bike, she sitting on the end, as Cambodian people do it. It is so funny to try to speak to somebody who doesn’t understand a word and the other way around. But smiling helps and nodding. So somehow we got a good mousetrap, one where the mouse or rat goes in but stayes alive so that I can put it outside.

I also found candles.

When I arrived at home for my lunchbreak ( I had hot sweetcorn and a rice muffin), I returned to a nice clean and de-dusted house. It felt good, also it felt more lively. She even made my bed.

It slowly feels normal to be here and actually I’m beginning to like it. I am independent with my little bike and I even start recognising people on the street or in the market.

Work feels busy now because I’m writing lots of reports and Hor and me help each other out. Also I gave feedback this morning to Voeun, one of the English teachers and I have the feeling, there is more to come from him.
Generally I slowly but surely get into the project and can see more clearly about it now.

Also the trip to PP had to be rescheduled because the director had problems with the appointed date. So now we now go to PP on Thursday next week, have the meeting on Friday morning and then we decided to stay until Sunday. Hor can visit his family and I can do shopping, shopping, shopping. Also my mobile phone is slowly dying, I think I need a new one.
On the following Monday, we will then travel together with Setill, the Regional Chief Nurse, to Ratanakiri province for a supervision visit of a Preceptor. I am so exited about that one, because Ratanakiri is supposed to be beautiful. Ethnic minorities, elephants, waterfalls and jungle combine to make this one of the most popular provinces in the northeast, my guidebook sais. It also served as a base for the Khmer Rouge leadership during much of the 1960’s. Pol Pot fled there in 1963 and established headquarters in the north of the province.
Gem mining and tourism form the lifeblood of the province. I really want to go for a swim in Boeng Ueak Lom, the vulcanic lake. Delia was there already and somehow I said something like- and then I can try out my new swimming costume- and then she looked at me and said, that nobody goes for a swim in that. They wear normal clothes, like T-shirt and trouswers. Well, I’ll find out. Also there is the Virachay National Park, which is popular.
I will stay in Ratanakiri until the end of the weekend, so alltogether for a week. And I had to take only one Annual leave for that.

Tomorrow evening I told everyone to come because I’m having my housewarming party. Don’t know how to manage yet, with only 2 forks, 2 spoons, 4 plates, 1 wok
and 4 glasses. I hope Helen can bring her rice cooker and then I make the only thing I can cook well and have the ingridenens for, my Thai curry. Will go to the market in the morning. Maybe I will be able to buy some meat. So far, I just couldn’t. The smell and the look of dead animals is nearly unbearable. The same with fish.

Saturday

This morning, there was a mouse in the mousetrap!

Hurray. Much smaller then I expected it to be. I think, I have no rats actually. The noise in the night comes from the gekkos I figured out. So I let the mouse out at the river. Hope, it doesn’t find the way back.
Then I went shopping for the party. I bought cutlery and plastic cups, salad bolwes, lots of fresh veg and fruit at the open market behind the hospital ( I like it there more then the inside central market). I was also looking for deko for the house but couldn’t find anything, exept deko used for Wat’s and Pagodas. So after I picked up Helen’s ricecooker, I stole some flowers from Delia’s garden. She has such a pretty flower garden.

Then I started to prepare. This might be boring for guys now, talking about food preparation… First the fruit salad. I bought lovely apples from New Zealand and a fresh pineapple and lytchie fruit. That all together and a little bit of palmsugar and lemon juice and then into the fridge.
Next the curry. You might all know how it tastes, having eaten it before in our house. But the challenge with this one is, that there is no coconut milk to find. Only fresh coconut stuff shredded off the coconut itself. So I bought some of that and then soaked it in water for a while. Then I put it through a fine siv and there was my coconut milk. Also I used first time baby- aubergines with it and it really works. Instead of lime leaves I had lemon grass and lots of fresh basil. Because I didn’t have much money left at the end of my shopping trip, I could only afford to buy a very small piece of beef meat and put that in. The left over dry coconut stuff I used to sprinkle onto the fruitsalad. Isn’t that very interesting to put into the travel blog? : )
Then I made a green salad out of cucumbers and salad leaves, an onion and lemonjuice. I couldn’t find red tomatoes yet. They sell them green.

At 5 pm Kahn came and we chatted a bit. He visited Helen at lunchtime and then he had school. Helen suggested to him that instead of becoming a doctor, he could start his career by becoming a nurse first. So he asked me if I could find out for him about that. He said that Helen is his mother and I have become his bigger sister. Isn’t that nice? I feel still a little suspicious but I think, he means good.

At 7 people startet to arrive and we ate and chatted on the veranda. Helen made also some pizza bread! How, I don’t know, because neither of us has an oven. It was amazing and with real cheese! I need to get some in PP.


They liked the food. Unfortunately the majority of Cambodians don’t drink much, so they brought coke and different soft drinks. The other volunteers luckily brought beer, because also for that I didn’t have mony left at the end of my shopping trip.

At 10 pm it was all over. I could’t believe it. But apparently that is the usual time to leave. Chantra had to go home because his mother was alone at home, waiting for him. And he is about 40 years old. But he once told us his story. He, his sister and his mother survived the Khmer Rouge. They had to work very hard and starved, and lived with constant fear. He also saw lots of people getting killed, also his father was a victim. So he is now looking after his mum, who is still traumatised very badly and lives in fear.
Cambodians are so family orientated. They usually live all together. The younger care about the older by working and giving the money to them. Kahn eg, he gives all his money to his parents who can’t work anymore. He lives with some relatives who support him here in ST. When he looked at my house he went through the rooms and said, so this is all for you alone? I said yes and felt bad.
He was also ment to get married 2 years ago, a girl he didn’t know. He can think so clearly, that if he would have married her, he would have ended up as a farmer. But he wanted to study medicine. So he refused.
Channa is the 11th child in his family. The youngest. He is 21. He studies every day. Monday until Friday he teaches English and works with me. In his lunchbreaks he studies Korean language. On the weekend he goes to university all day and studies more English. He appears a bit weak to me and tired recently, even fragile. He also has a cough. I think it is just too much for him, but he said he hasn’t got a choice. I really hope, that one day he can relax a bit more. I keep an eye on him.

After I cleaned up I had another mouse in the trap and reliesed it at the river. Then I killed another 2 coquratches in the bathroom. They actually really disgust me. I flushed them down the toilet because last time I threw them out of the window and they had still this poisening spray on them. And there are lots of animals here I don’t want to poison too.


Anyway, hope everything is well could somebody update me with important events that happen at the moment, like elections in Germany and all that.
By the way, thank you so much for all your lovely e-mails! It is so great to hear from you. That makes me so unbelievably happy.
Lots of love and until next week from PP!





permalink written by  katja-horsch on June 7, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: 1.6.- 7.6.09
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ST 25.05.- 31.05.2009

Phnom Penh, Cambodia


Monday, 25 May 2009
I forgot to tell you about the glowing flies ( Gluehwuermchen in German). The first time ever I’ve seen some. It is completely dark and suddenly those little lights appear and fly around. Looked like fairies. Absolutely fascinating and it has something magical.

There are many things I’m doing or I’ve seen for the first time in my life since I am here.
Apart from eating many different fruit or veg or duck eggs, generally food for the first time, it is also new for me to go every night at 9 o’clock to bed. Also last night I experienced the loudest and heaviest thunderstorm ever. The house was shaking when the thunder came. I wonder how I will cope with that when I live alone…

On Sunday Joelle went to have another blood test and it revealed that she is clear now of malaria. So lucky. There are apparently 5 stages of malaria and she had fortunately only stage 1, the weakest form but also it can lead to dead if untreated. We want to go at the weekend together over the river by boat to see the a little village.

My Thai curry on Sunday evening was a success. I made it for the first time with all fresh ingredients. Delia and her boyfriend Scott, who visits her at the moment (lucky her), came around and Helen and me sat on the veranda, eating and drinking wine.
Did I ever mention that Helen is originally from Canada and Delia from Australia?
Both of them lived in England before they started with VSO ..


This morning, Monday the 25th of May, I went first thing to the bank with the new letter, Hor brought with him from PP. They made me a booklet, which you need to get money out of your account. The card for the cash machine will be ready in 10 days. Anyway, this booklet. When I received it after 30 minutes, I couldn’t help myself laughing. They put for my name: Katja Horsch Deutsch. When I tried to explain that Deutsch is my nationality, they wouldn’t believe me, because in my passport those three words are below each other. I tried to convince them for 5 min until somebody else came and said that I’m right. So they did another booklet for 30 minutes. This time, the stamp wouldn’t work and they had to repair it before putting it on. Finally I have my bank account and now money can be transferred for my house.

Hor asked me to type from Helens house contract a copy so that we can use it.

Work is fine at the moment. Just finding my feet. I think I was quite negative about everything in the last few mails. Maybe I am still, but at least I realize it now.

I think it takes time, I am just not used to it. Also I talked to a few volunteers about seeing the purpose of my position here and they all said, I need to be patient and set small objectives, not huge ones at the beginning.

So I’m trying. But generally I feel a little more relaxed and am looking forward to more challenges and how I will manage things. This is definitely a big learning curve for me and I realize slowly, how my life was until now. Have enough time to think about it…, and somehow I can see already what positive effects it will have on me once I let go. I had a disagreement with my mum about me being too impulsive. 6 weeks ago, I was very much disagreeing with her, but now, thinking about it, I think she is right. I am actually an impulsive person. But I think there is nothing wrong with it.
I also realized, how stress at work had influenced me for a long time and how it effected my private life at home in so many negative ways. I feel that I had so much stress in the last few years. I never want to have that again. Here it is not yet stressful, it probably will be at some point, but at the moment I really enjoy an easy life, I feel like I’m on a long holiday a little bit. Except from not being physically together with friends and family. That is not easy at all.
But people (mostly volunteers), I see here every day now become important, and I am really looking forward to see Helen after work for example. With certain people I click, like Helen and Joelle, with some a bit later.
Thinking about a conversation with Dave, a VSO facilitator from P2V and SKWID course, who asked me one evening in Harbourne Hall at the bar, what I want to get out of this personally. I haven’t had really thought about it until then, and I couldn’t really answer him back. I knew from the volunteers point of view I want to give my best to support the health sector here in North East Cambodia, but I also want to learn, just to be myself. And I have the feeling, I’ll have plenty of time to practise.

In the afternoon at RTC we were doing something really useful, I found. We went through each preceptors evaluation form. They did complete it after the workshop last week. So Hor translated and I wrote everything down and will summarise it to complete the Kadoorie report (they do the funding of the project). There were really good comments and suggestions, I can hopefully do something with. I really can recommend evaluation forms.

For supper, Helen bought a small roasted chicken. Chicken here in Cambodia is more expensive then other meet. Why? No idea. She’s having Khmei lesson at the moment. She’s trying to learn how to write it. It’s far too advanced for me.

Tomorrow, I’m going to see my house again and maybe sign the contract.
I’m actually looking forward to have my own space. I asked Scott ( Delias boyfriend) already to help me putting a hammock (Haengematte) onto the veranda.


Tuesday

Today I found out, how much holiday I really have. Not only the 20 days I have anyway, but 25 more days, Bank holidays. That made my day! I really want to try to travel to see as much as I can while I’m here.

In the afternoon, Hor and me met the landlady again and signed the contract. The house is sooo big! Two bedrooms, big living room, big hall, open kitchen, big veranda and a tiny bathroom. So I can move in on Thursday at 14:00.

Happy 30th Birthday Avery!!!!!!!!


Wednesday

Hor showed me today the Accommodation for the students, who have to live there because they come from different Provinces and can’t afford to stay anywhere else. There it is for free for them, and from my understanding, during their theory in the RTC ( usually 4 weeks), they don’t get any money. Once they are on placement in the hospital ( usually 4 weeks), they get $1 ( = 4000 Riel) per day. There are 4 buildings and in each building are 5 rooms. In each room are up to 6 beds and sometimes students have to share a bed. Currently there are 105 students in those 4 buildings.

Half male and half female. They relay on 2 water pumps to do their washing, cook, drink from it, flush the toilet and have a bath. One pump is rainwater and one has clean water and people are only allowed to use it for cooking and drinking. Electricity for fans for example is only available for 12 hours/day. There are only 4 old toilets. The rooms are stuffed and I wonder, how can they remain clean and be hygienic as it is appropriate for a nurse to be, when they live under those conditions. It is inhuman.
After seeing that, Hor asked me, if I could do something like a charity run to get some money to build a new building.
I think he is great to be so committed and trying to change the conditions, the students live in now and of course I want to try and help, after seeing it with my own eyes.
So after sitting in the office and thinking how to do it, I thought I try to write articles about it and send it to different magazines and newspapers in Germany and England. My suggestion then would be to also write down numbers of costs (which we figured out already) and try to support in small steps. Maybe first of all with more new WCs. Then maybe with a water system around the buildings. Then maybe with electricity for 24 hours. If there is more money then maybe build a new building with water, electricity and WC for them. We only need $ 63.000 for that.
If any of you have any ideas or want to support, of course with money, e-mail me.

The second project I was thinking of, in order for the students to learn English more easy, is that I want to find out if they would be interested in singing in a choir. And if they are, then I would start one. Looking forward to that if it is possible…

To be honest, I don’t think that the Role of TDA, I am suppose to act in, is useful at the moment. The clinical instructors from the RTC make such a confident impression and I think, they need only very little or no support, thanks to previous volunteer Kathy. I should concentrate more on the Preceptor Advisor role, which is still a vacancy at the moment. I want to be more active in the hospitals, working closely with the preceptor and the student. Generally that is possible, but the project only allows two visits to different hospitals per student placement.
I’ll have my first official visit with the Regional Chief Nurse in 2 weeks. Then we will observe together preceptors, working with students, and give feedback. Therefore we will go to Rattanakiri province for 3-4 days and I plan to stay over the weekend there afterwards to check it out.

Thursday

I moved! Looks all so big and empty. Channa helped me to find certain things in the market for a good price. I have the feeling, people charge too much from me when I buy on my own. Isn’t it handy to have a supermarket in England or Germany? Here, everything needs to be bought in the market. I still need to get used to it. So we bought a big pot for cooking water, a pillow, plastic bowls for washing, glasses to drink from, a jug, sponges and cleaning chemicals ( ants everywhere) and towels. Also toilet paper, a hammock!, Tupper boxes ( so that mice can’t get to food), and incense sticks ( against mosquitoes).


It was sad to leave Helen, but I was also exited to have my own space. I think, Helen was also looking forward to that.


Friday

My first night on my own in the big wooden house… It was ok. There is the family living behind me who owns the house, so there voices and so on to not feel too isolated. I hope, that one day I can communicate with them properly.


There is a male hen, I think called a cock, and he’s not doing the usually kikiriki or konkedudeldo. He’s a little horse and so it is not nice when he starts in the morning with greetings, it is like somebody scratches with nails on a plate.

Otherwise there are dogs around, and in my house I have geckos, lots of ants ( don’t know where there are coming from) and mice. I put a piece of soap next to the sink in the kitchen, and each morning you can see little teeth marks on it. There must a mouse eating my Palmolive rose soap. I asked Helen and Delia about it and they said, apparently that mice love soap. Helen once went on holiday and when she came back, nearly everything of her soap was eaten.
They have mousetraps here, but there are cruel. It is like a box with sticky glue in it and once the mouse is in it, they are stuck in there and live until they die of starvation or whatever. I just can’t face that. So let the mouse eat the soap, as long as they leave my other stuff.

In the afternoon, we had a meeting at Louisa’s house ( VSO Maternal and child health Advisor), all of the volunteers who are in ST. Helen ( Behavioural Change and Communication Advisor), Delia (Nutrition Advisor), Louisa, Hor (Provincial Programme Officer) and me. We talked about a joint meeting with Kratie’s Health team in order to talk about headlines for coming VSO Health Sector Workshop in July. I liked that. We had a few good ideas and it was interesting to meet out of work but talk about work.
In the evening we had supper at the Riverside restaurant, eating VSO special. It was delicious. I was really craving for meat.

Saturday


I met with Joelle at 9 and we then went over the river to Thala-Bariwat.
We both wanted to get out of the house and I got the idea from Helen. She was there before and she could also tell me the story behind it, which goes: There was a pregnant women once and she asked her husband to get her a coconut from the palm tree. But he went away without getting it for her. So she went up the tree herself, fell down and then gave birth to twins. One twin was a boy, the other one a cow.

So there is in a small hut the stone statue of this secret bull now, his name is Nandin.
The statue is flanked by two shrines to an old man, Dah Jouh Juet.
Also there are ruined brick towers of Prasat Preah Ko, probably build to control river traffic, as my guide book says.


The most impressive modern pagoda I’ve seen so far is Wat Tasar Moi Roi
, the pagoda of One hundred Columns,
which was built in 1986 with the express intention of beating the number of columns at any other Wat in the country.

There we met a monk who let us into the pagoda.

There were a few kids around him and when I asked him about them, he said they were children without family.
Some parents died of HIV, some were just left alone. He cares for them now and he also is about to start a charity, involving Education, Health and Livelihoods.

He was very friendly and he also explained some pictures inside the pagoda.
It was very interesting and we were glad that we went there.


After that we explored the village a bit more and just walked and talked in the hot sun.
Joelle told me about the research she is doing. There is a dam to be build near the Laos border, and when that happens, the people there have to move away because of constant severe flooding. One dam has been build already. She is trying to raise awareness about the next one. She is here from University in Switzerland and has to return in 2 weeks. She stayed here for nearly 4 month now, after having her stay even extended. I think I will miss her.

Of course both of us got a sunburn afterwards although we creamed.


Then we felt hungry and went back to the little harbour where there had little restaurants. We had a fish dish with rice and it was quite nice.
It then started to rain and we were stuck, because when it’s raining, no boat will go. The owners of that restaurant then started to talk to us and invited us into the back of the restaurant. Then they asked, if they could take some pictures of and with us. It was so funny. We all posed for a family picture, taken with their mobile phones. Joelle has more pictures on her camera then I have, so there are more to follow.

On the way back we sat together with a group of drunken Cambodians. There were probably our age ( Joelle is as old as I am), and it was really funny. Fortunately nothing else happened and we landed safely back in ST.

We had a quick fruit shake at the “Riverside”, which is so far my favourite because it has a slightly European touch and nice chill out music. Two guys from Belgium joint us. They do an Asia tour and came just from Laos. It is funny to talk to people who travel and see lots of places. It must be funny for them to hear that I’ll stay in ST for 2 years… So far I have the feeling that travellers are interested in other people, but only for a short time. Because is it worth it to go into deep detail and to know each other? And that’s what I think. It is great to meet and chat about this and that, but then, you say goodbye and that was it, because I’ll stay.

I then invited Joelle to see my house and we had banana cake and self-made ice-tea.
She was my first visitor. It made the house more lively. I need more visitors.
Next Saturday I decided, my housewarming party is due. I try to invite lots of people.

In the evening, I watched a DVD: The boy in the striped pyjamas. It is a sad story, but I liked the film.

Sunday, 31st of May 2009

I woke up during the night once because I felt, something dropped on my face and I thought it was a mouse or something. I couldn’t find anything with my torch. Maybe it was just a dream..

In the morning I washed some clothes and did some cleaning. At lunchtime I got a call from Evic, she is a VSO volunteer living in Kathy’s house, working in Livelihood. She gave me an iron ( yeahhh!!, otherwise it is very expensive in the market) and some speakers for my laptop (yeahhhhhhh!!!, also very difficult to find). That made me very happy. After my smart linen clothes have been washed, they definitely need to be ironed. So that’s what I’m doing next.


Otherwise I hope all is well on the other side of the planet. Aren’t there elections in
Germany at the moment?

I’m here now for more then 3 weeks and it feels already like 3 months.
I miss you all and give you a big hug. And my letterbox-pigeon whole is hungry!


permalink written by  katja-horsch on May 31, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: ST 25.05.- 31.05.2009
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