Does what it says on the tin

However, I didn't figure all of these things would happen in the space of seven days. Yet they did, and by the end of it I was about ready to turn my back on Africa. Suddenly the option of being deported back to England appealed to me, but thankfully I rode it out and am stronger for the experiences I will now share with you.

Welcome to Nkhata Bay Police Station

What should have been a routine visa extension turned into the biggest mess possible. Not only did the immigration official, Mr Mitengo, try and charge me double the price that I knew I had to pay, but he then had the audacity to have me arrested for intimidation, amongst other things, for confronting him on this matter. Now I realise my use of the word 'corruption' may not have been the wisest, but still I found it hard to believe one could be arrested for simply challenging what amounted to attempted corruption.

The scene of THEIR crime!

Two hours later it had become a grave situation. A statement, from, and I mean this is the nicest possible way, a local dropout who was not even present at the scene of the 'crime', riddled with lies and inconsistencies had been given against me and things were looking bad. Despite my subtle offer of resolving this matter in another manner, by way of a bribe, it was clear the gentlemen I was dealing with were on a power trip and wanted to make an example of me.

Due to their determination to prove a point I was not in the least bit surprised when they threatened to deport me - although I did think it was a little extreme given my innocence. I was however extremely surprised when they produced the form declaring me a prohibited immigrant in Malawi, which I was forced into signing (the threat of being sent straight to prison if I didn't sign was enough to jolt me out of the daze I had fallen into).

The building on the left is where I was locked up for an hour - not pleasant!

What made me laugh was the next day when I went to resolve the matter, and get my visa extended, I assumed I would just have to pay the initial price Mr Mitengo had demanded. Yet I was thankfully charged the price I knew it should have been, thus proving I was being set-up from the start. I can laugh about this now, but at the time I was actually pretty worried, and it still worries me that these people have the power to pretty much do as they please, even if people are innocent.

No longer welcome in Malawi

So I must leave 'now days'....

To be continued...

written by  MarcusInAfrica on June 24, 2009 from Nkhata Bay, Malawi
from the travel blog: Cape to Cardiff
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Sweating it out in a poncho (taken post malaria, hence the smile!)

I did my best to ignore the early warning signs, not wanting to be seen to be moaning about nothing. The first thing I noticed was a complete lack of energy, and I'm not just talking about feeling tired but utterly exhausted from doing nothing more than waking up and having a shower. When I couldn't muster the energy to walk into town, opting to take a boat ride instead, I should have realised something was wrong.

Not wanting to admit something was wrong I proceeded to finish my daily chores in town before staggering back to the backpackers - a walk that usually takes ten minutes took me thirty and left me feeling worse than when I completed the Cape Argus cycle tour. To top it all of it was a sweltering day and yet there I was shivering in cold sweats in a woolen poncho. Finally I admitted to myself it might be malaria, although as much as I wanted to walk the ten metres to where my malaria testing kits were I simply couldn't get up.

It was only when Nelson, a friend who bares more than a passing resemblance to an eccentric wizard, walked past me and said 'man you look like sh#t' that I knew I had to do something. When he asked if I was feeling weak in my joints and muscles, feverish and suffering from headaches, of which I confessed to all, he had no hesitation in diagnosing me with malaria. It was then that I was shipped off to hospital for blood tests, which confirmed I had +1 malaria (which, thanks to getting tested early, is at the bottom end of the scale, but still pretty bad).

Armed with my medication, and a few bonus valium, I began the slow and painful trek back to the backpackers. Despite my obvious illness every local taxi driver wanted more money than it would cost to fly to Lilongwe to drive me three kilometres, which I refused to pay on principle. That walk back was one of the most challenging of my life, and upon completing it I was spent. You could have quite literally knocked me out with a feather, such was my state of complete exhaustion.

The next two days were spent in a quite horrible state, the fevers continued unabated, my body felt as if the life had been sucked out of it and my head was swimming in a sea of pain. Finally, on day three, with the help of Coartim, the symptoms began to subside, and slowly but surely I felt my energy levels increase, the fevers became less frequent and my head had stopped pounding. It took another three days to finally get back to somewhere near my old self, and with one last bout of energy loss my bad luck was completed.

On passing out on the sofa at the backpackers I didn't think twice about moving my bag next to where I was, such was the sudden drop in energy levels, a costly mistake to say the least. For it was whilst I was dead to the world that I had all the money stolen from my wallet - I guess it's true what they say, 'bad things come in threes'. The amount stolen, roughly fifty pounds, was beside the point, it was the feeling I had knowing someone had stolen my money. Suddenly I was looking at everyone as if they were potential criminals, my faith in the human race total diminshed for a few days.

Now you see it...

Now you don't!

My late gran always used to tell me 'whatever doesn't kill you will only make you stronger', although at the time of all this bad luck I was struggling to take that on baord. Looking back, knowing I survived a torid week, I can now say I am a stronger person for all of what went on, not to mention a wiser one - it will be a long time before I use the word 'corruption' in Africa again, or ignore the warning signs of malaria.

Money issues in Malawi

One Happy Diver

My Dive Buddies John and Louise

Gearing Up For A Dive

Divers Ready For The Off

A Perfect Day At Lake Malawi

Diving with torches, and the natural moonlight, the lake is an eery place in the dark, especially given a whole host of different fish come out - the chief, and most sinister, of these being the Dolphin fish. These long, ugly fish hunt at night, and take advantage of the torch light to find Cichlids to eat, meaning there is always a pack of them swimming within a few feet of you.

What A Lovely Bunch!

With an offer to come back to Aqua Africa to do my Dive Master course there is a distinct possibility I will be back in Malawi later this year, if not then then when I have finished my travels. Diving has struck a chord in my heart and is something I can see myself getting into in a big way. There will be a few more dives here before taking my new learnt skills to Zanzibar to see a different underwater world again.

I am not normally one for plugging companies, but I feel I would be doing people out of some great advice if I didn't do so now. If you are ever in Malawi and want to learn to dive, or simply want to do a dive, then Aqua Africa and their night dive is an experience not to be missed.

As for me now I have a few days of casual diving before Matt (my brother for those who don't know) arrives out here, which sees the start of the journey towards Tanzania and our hike up Mount Kilimanjaro. Tales of our adventures together will appear here, so come back soon to see what we have been getting up to. And remember for those who want to email me my address is marcus_leach@hotmail.com and you can also see my work for Sky Travel at http://travel.sky.com/inspiration/blogs/Through-African-Eyes

Lazy Days At Aqua Africa

A birthday message from Mayoka

A birthday lunch with a view

Happy to have Matt with me on my birthday

The Expansion of Hope Tour 2009 - Nick and Luke

The chefs hard at work

Birthday dinner fit for a king

I do however remember that, following a delicious butterfish braai (bbq for all you non-South Africans), I had two cakes which just about topped the day off. Without doubt the banoffee cake was the pick of the two, sorry Mayoka but your chocolate cake is good but not that good, and was rounded off with a rare treat - a bottle of Captain Morgan's Spiced Gold.

From there the night is a bit of a haze, although I do remember devouring an entire piece of biltong before going to bed, and waking with just a hint of a hangover, and by hint I mean almighty. A big thank you to all those, you know who you are, who played a part in making my birthday on tour such a memorable occassion.

written by  MarcusInAfrica on July 28, 2009 from Nkhata Bay, Malawi
from the travel blog: Cape to Cardiff
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Putting the well to good use

Amama with her clan of children

Chikunt and Miaso do their bit

Harry puts his back into it for a good cause

Of course the time we spent there would not have been the same without the constant interaction with the village's children, all of whom struck their own chord in my heart. However, there were two boys, Chikunt and Miaso, who Matt and I became very close with, to the extent that the moment we stepped out of Otillia's house in the mornings they were there waiting for us everyday.

Two happy trench diggers

Proof of the hardwork

Chikunt

A lone walker (me) reflects on the path ahead

Ever since deciding to travel through Africa I knew I couldn't do it without conquering Mount Kilimanjaro, the world's highest free-standing mountain, and it soon became a major focus of my trip. Very quickly the goal was set, Matt and I would climb the mountain together. What follows is the true story of how two brothers conquered Africa's highest mountain.

The Build-Up

Once finished at the village in Malawi the focus soon turned to reaching Tanzania and making our way to Moshi - which turned out to be quite an epic journey that spanned four days - in order to hike Mt. Kilimanjaro. As we, painstakingly at times, edged closer to our destination both of us went through different phases of excitement, apprehension and trepidation of what lay ahead.

Finally, after close to forty-five hours on buses and trains, we caught our first sighting of the mountain and it left us both pretty much speechless. It wasn't until we arrived in Moshi that it really dawned on us just how sizeable our goal was going to be, but it was one we had become increasingly focused on and were determined to achieve at all costs.

The final arrangements were put into place the day before we departed, having met our guide Arnold and Christopher the 'Stomach Doctor' (our cook), to plan the trip and menu - when you are climbing a mountain it is important to have the food you want and need. After a traditional dinner at Arnold's house, something of an honour for Matt and myself to be invited to, it was back to the hotel to contemplate the journey ahead.

Day One - 12th August 2009

We both rise early to get a healthy breakfast inside of us, after all we will be needing as much energy as possible over the coming days. Nerves are jangling a little, reminds me off how I used to feel before playing rugby, but are combined with a great deal of anticipation. After meeting Arnold and the rest of his crew, which includes Christopher our cook and six porters, it is onto the daladala (local mini-bus) heading for our start point - Machame Gate.

Ready to go on the first day

The waiting is over as at 12:16 we take our first tentative footsteps on the lower slopes of Africa's highest mountain, with the intention to walk for five hours 'pole-pole', which means slowly-slowly. Both of us find it hard to contain our excitement and often find ourselves going much faster than the intended pace as we walk through thick jungle.

With a short break after two hours it is onwards towards our camp and despite Arnold's best efforts Matt and I simply can't walk as slow as he would like us too - although he would soon learn that we were not your average hikers going up the mountain. Still full of life we arrive at camp not long after our porters who are busy setting up our tents and preparing hot tea and popcorn.

Matt and Arnold in the jungle

THE FACTS: 4hrs 10mins hiking time, 14km covered, camping at 3000m altitude.

Day Two - 13th August 2009

Awake after a terrible night's sleep - weird dreams and freezing conditions ensured I only slept for about three hours - leaving me questioning just how cold it will be camping at close to 5000m. Thankfully breakfast is ready soon after we rise, hot porridge, fruit, tea and eggs help kick start our bodies as the sun starts to warm our backs. Knowing it is another 'easy' day of hiking ahead spirits are high and the mood in camp is very relaxed.

Once again the two of us struggle to get to grips with this 'pole-pole' business, and instead steam into a two hour uphill slog forcing Arnold to run ahead and try and slow us to a suitable pace. His best efforts fail and he soon resigns himself to the fact we are both determined not to just climb the mountain, but to blaze a trail of smoke up it.

Lunch is taken just shy of 3700m and as of yet neither of us have any problems with the altitude, which is a good sign for the days that lie ahead. One thing I do notice, as we look back down on the clouds, is the wind chill is rather extreme up here when you are not moving around. The second section of the day is pretty straight forward, although we have to contend with thick cloud and dropping temperatures on our way to camp.

Another day taken care of, and as we arrive at our camp we both just start to notice a little shortage of oxygen in the air. Arnold informs us the oxygen saturation is down to about 85%, which gives me an idea, albeit a rather stupid one in hindsight. Whilst working in South Africa there was always a debate as to how altitude affected rugby teams who were used to playing at heights closer to sea level.

Seeing we were at an altitude no team would ever play at I thought I would test out just how much the lack of oxygen plays a part. The challenge was simple, a one minute press-up test, which done at sea level sees me clock a healthy 62 reps. The first twenty seconds were fine, and I didn't see what all the fuss was about, but from then on in it was pain all the way. Suddenly it felt like someone had sucked every last ounce of oxygen from my lungs as I struggled to breath quick enough to replace it. The result: 40 reps and a set of burning lungs that promised me if I tried anything as stupid as that again they would be looking for a new owner.

All that was left for the day was a short acclimatisation walk, just to take us up to 4000m to prepare us for day three, and once again we both reported back fit and with no visible effects of mountain sickness. I have been lucky to eat at some pretty special places in the world, but let me tell you nothing compares to the sight we had at dinner on the second night - I will allow the picture to do it justice.

Possibly the best view from dinner ever

THE FACTS: 4hrs 22mins hiking time, 10km covered, camping at 3820m altitude.

Day Three - 14th August 2009

Another terrible night's sleep leaves me feeling pretty groggy in the morning as I soon realise the nights will be my least favourite part of this challenge. Matt seems to have little problems with the cold at night, which annoys me slightly as would do anything for a decent sleep. A hot breakfast with hot chocolate helps rouse my body for the day ahead, which is meant to be more challenging than the first two.

Brothers in Arms

Before we break for lunch Arnold has a little treat for us to climb, the Lava Tower, which is at 4600m and marks the highest either of us has ever been. It also nearly marked the end of my own hike, but that's a story for another day, as Matt decided it would be a good idea to free-climb it. At the top we were both pumped up, viewing the lack of oxygen as more of a challenge for us to overcome than a hindrance to our progress.

Arnold informs us the last leg of the day, at our current pace, will take around an hour an a half - which to two highly energised and motivated boys is like a red rag to a bull. We last see Arnold ten minutes before we enter camp, the two of us sprinting the last five hundred meters to arrive in under an hour, much to the amazement of every other hiker and most of the porters. It was at this point our reputation, among hikers and porters alike, as being totally crazy was cemented.

Conquering Kilimanjaro in more ways than one

As soon as dinner is finished we all return to our respective tents, knowing that the next two days will see us make or break the mountain. Pretty proud Arnold sees us as stronger than most of his clients, and that other porters and guides have commented on our efforts.

THE FACTS: 5hrs 11mins hiking time, 12km covered, camping at 3900m altitude.

Day Four - 15th August 2009

Camping with a view

My body feels cold and reluctant to get going, but my mind is alive and focused on the day ahead. This is the day that finally takes us into sight of the summit we are aiming for, takes us to base camp from where we will make our attempt at conquering Mt. Kilimanjaro. Those thoughts are motivating me to the extent where I can't keep still, the energy is loaded and my body is ready to go now.

The road ahead leads to base camp

With every step we take Matt and I are loving this more and more, and have now been officially dubbed as 'Mountain Soldiers' by a porter we have kept pace with for some time. For those who haven't had the pleasure of hiking on the mountain let me tell you to keep up with a porter is no mean feat, as despite having 20kg on their heads they take great pride in practically running up the mountain.

Arnold changes the route slightly, incorporating some harder sections of climbing, but it's nothing Matt and I can't handle as we make great time to the lunch camp. Matt, Arnold and myself take great pleasure in ticking off other groups as they arrive at the camp, registering each and everyone with their team name, time and how far behind us they were.

A leisurely lunch sees us leave for base camp in high spirits, and soon enough we have overtaken the early starters, and with each group we pass our pace goes up a notch as once again we are practically running into base camp - although not quite sprinting as now the lack of oxygen in the air is really becoming apparent. It takes us less than ninety minutes to cover a section that takes most over two hours - our only concern is that we haven't over exerted ourselves too early. Only time will provide that answer now.

The Kissing Stone - it has to be done!

The next two hours see all the final preparations put in place, bags packed, clothes laid out and finally a healthy dinner to get the energy levels up. After that it is early to bed, minds firmly set on the morning and the prospect of reaching the summit. The wait is all but over now, this is what the last four days have been for, now the hard work really begins. I drift off into a state of semi-sleep with a feeling in my stomach I have seldom had since finishing playing rugby.

THE FACTS: 5hrs 50mins, 10km covered, camping at 4600m altitude

Day Five - 16th August 2009

All set to take on the summit

00:49 I force two bowls of hot porridge down knowing I will be grateful for the energy later. Matt and I sit in my tent drinking hot tea and eating a few biscuits, neither saying much but knowing what the other is thinking. Most other groups have gone, Arnold is holding us back a few hours as, in his words, our 'pace is crazy'.

01:16 Out of the tent and make two quick video diaries for our documentary before checking Arnold is ready for the hike - what will be his 263rd time at the summit if all goes to plan.

01:19 Matt and I both look up the mountain, the summit lies a further 1400m up from where we are, and see several lines of lights slowly making their way up the slope step by step. We will officially be the last group out of the gate, but given the nature of us both will look to catch as many other groups as possible.

01:28 Time for us to do a final check to ensure we have everything we will need to help us reach the top. Bags loaded with snacks, water and a few other bits and pieces we are taking. Everything is packed, checked and ready to go.

01:37 Arnold calls our summit team, himself, Johnny, Matt and myself, in to say a silent prayer. Emotions running pretty high right now, difficult to describe the exact feeling but it is one somewhere between sheer determination that I will do this and a slight fear of what lies ahead in the dark.

01:39 We take the first of many footsteps that will hopefully see us reach the summit for sunrise. What to say other than at the moment I am so fired up and focused on this, and apart from cold toes am feeling great.

02:30 Almost an hour in and we are making good ground, already passed one group and on the way to making it two. The air is getting thin, but keeping a steady pace so not feeling it too much right now.

03:15 Still feeling strong, although trying not to look up too much as it just reminds you how far is yet to go. Using other groups to track down is helping us keep our pace, and we don't even need to tell Arnold our intentions. For him 'Mzungu hunting' is becoming something of a hobby.

Here comes the sun....

04:03 Matt is really feeling the cold and we have to stop to get warm tea and food inside so we can keep going. Am worried Matt has left it too late to eat, guess we will have to wait and see. One thing is for certain I'm not standing on the top of Africa without him.

04:21 Another stop as the cold and low energy levels hit Matt again. Thoughts of not reaching the top rattle around my mind, but not letting them settle. We are going to do this, no matter what.

04:57 Things are better now, we have braved the worst of the cold and accepted it will be like this until sunrise. Matt's energy levels back up and it's one step at a time as the crater rim looms on the horizon.

Our summit team, myself, Johnny, Arnold and Matt

05:49 Finally we have got to the crater rim. Now it's my turn to suffer from a lack of energy, but being so close to the top I just keep going. Arnold tells me to look left, and when I do I see a huge glacier just meters away from me. That's the inspiration I need to finish this.

06:01 The sun is starting to tinge the horizon so many wonderful shades of red and orange. Never have I seen a sunrise like this before. It's cold but I have to take photos, which means off with the gloves. Seemed like a good idea until I tired to put them back on, hands freezing again now.

Brother in Arms

06:24 The first sighting of the summit and it's sign to welcome you. So close to achieving one of my biggest goals to date, and Matt is right here with me. Together we have pulled through this.

06:36 We have done it. Stood on top of Africa, tears running down my face as all the emotions of the last five hours hit home. Give Matt a huge hug as we both realise we have achieved our goal, we have conquered Mt. Kilimanjaro together. Lost for words, this is simply too much to take on board.

06:49 A lot of picture taking has been done, as we try and come to terms with what we have just done. Arnold calls us all in for a prayer again, and then I take a moment to say my own prayer to my Gran. She was there with us the entire way up, and somehow I feel a connection to her here.

06:58 Matt and I are buzzing. Our bodies are flooded with emotion and excitement. We came through everything and reached the top. Now for the journey back down, and at some stage I think it will truly hit home what we have just done.

THE FACTS: 13hrs 12mins hiking time, 41km covered, 5895m altitude - that's the higest you can go in Africa!!

The journey off the mountain was long, 29km from the summit to the exit gate, and is of little consequence to what we achieved. That is other than we did a seven day trip inside five days - true Mountain Soldiers to the last. Another two blogs will follow this, looking at the mental side of climbing the mountain, as well as Matt's take on events. But for now, as we head off to Zanzibar to relax, that's all.

The feet of a man who conquered Kilimanjaro