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so-journ

a travel blog by cjones


A year of exploration in the rural tropics, learning about places, people, the good and the bad, how I can help and what's next in this wild ride for me.


Teach us to number our days aright,
that we may gain a heart of wisdom.

May the favor of the Lord our God rest upon us;
establish the work of our hands for us — yes, establish the work of our hands.

Psalms 90:10 & 17
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Birthday in Guatemala

Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala


Arrived in Guatemala on Monday and met with the staff of FUNCEDESCRI (Fundación de Servicios Cristianos) yesterday about returning to work with them on a project to build the infrastructure for their rural communities to be able to produce their own education and training materials. This is especially challenging because most people in the communities speak their own Mayan dialect but not Spanish and in some cases do not have a written tradition in their native language. A computer center and training program is planned for each community to allow creation of media such as audiovisual presentations, leaflets and posters. Another form of pedagogic communication will be puppet shows.

FUNCEDESCRI hopes that the community designed and managed education programs they are enabling will promote better agricultural practices for health and the environment, and a more localized economic system that will better support the communities.

permalink written by  cjones on July 4, 2008 from Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
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Back to school

Quetzaltenango, Guatemala


Yesterday, I started Spanish classes here in Quetzaltenango (also called Xela, pronounced "Shayla"), where I've been staying since Friday night. Learned that at least sometimes it's better not to plan ahead because I had registered online at one school that looked good online but was dissatisfied with it after visiting it in person. Also discovered that it was unnecessary to pay a registration fee, which I'm now trying to recover. Found another school that seems much better and costs less, so I registered at this one yesterday morning and had my first class there in the afternoon.

Also just received some great news from Yanapuma in their bi-monthly newsletter. Turns out that a couple of weeks ago they arranged a visit by a group of Tsa'chila from the Búa community to Finca Sarita, the organic agroforestry farm I visited in March (see blog entry on April 2). Apparently, the community members were very impressed, and as I had hoped this could lead to continued exchange of knowledge about more sustainable agricultural practices that could greatly benefit the Búa community and their land.

I had first learned about Finca Sarita from people I met at Rio Muchacho last November. Then after my visit in March and discussions there with Servio (the owner) about the needs of the Búa community, I met with people in Búa and Yanapuma staff in Quito to discuss how the farm could serve as an model and valuable source of agricultural and community development knowledge for the Tsa'chila communities, particularly Búa. My intention in all this was to bring Servio and the Sarampión community together with the Búa community through the assistance of Yanapuma. I believed, as did others at Yanapuma, that seeing a real-life example of a better alternative could be more helpful and motivating than hearing about one in a series of workshops.

permalink written by  cjones on July 8, 2008 from Quetzaltenango, Guatemala
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Land of the Zapatistas

San Cristobal de Las Casas, Mexico


Arrived here yesterday afternoon in San Cristobal de Las Casas, in the Mexican state of Chiapas, after stopping over for a day in Huehuetenango, Guatemala. Took the chicken bus from Quetzaltenango to Huehue but a private shuttle service from Huehue to here. Not that much difference in the price when you consider taxis to and from the bus terminals, which haven't been very close to the hotels. The shuttle also saves time and allows better views of the surrounding countryside. There was a distinct change in scenery after crossing the border into Mexico - less mountainous and more wide-open spaces and large farms. Planning to stay here until the weekend and take more Spanish classes.

The city is named after St. Bartolome de las Casas, who fought nonviolently for indigenous rights in the 16th century and now the Zapatistas are doing the same thing for the Mayan people of Chiapas as well as other oppressed and marginalized people in other parts of the country largely through an internet-based media campaign. From what I can tell, their portrayal in the mass media as dangerous rebels appears to be misleading propaganda most likely fomented by business and political interests the Zapatistas oppose. While a few armed clashes occurred within the first 2 weeks of the uprising in 1994 (which coincided with the implementation of NAFTA), the group has abstained from using weapons since then. However, the Mexican army remains vigilant and there continue to be reports of intimidation and violence by police and paramilitaries against indigenous people in the more remote areas. Here in San Cristobal I've seen a street named "Insurgentes" and much graffiti, artwork and published writing in favor of the Zapatista movement.


permalink written by  cjones on July 14, 2008 from San Cristobal de Las Casas, Mexico
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Sumidero Canyon

Tuxtla Gutierrez, Mexico


Visited Cañón del Sumidero, an hour an a half or so from San Cristobal de Las Casas, which was beautiful place but it was sad to see all the pollution in the reservoir and the excessive tourism (to which I contributed). Felt guilty riding in one of the many tour boats spewing the toxic chemicals into the lake. However, it was good to see this as an example of eco-tourism run amok. There's a cleanup project underway to remove the trash but this doesn't appear to be very serious since plastic bottles are being removed by hand without even basic equipment like nets.



permalink written by  cjones on July 18, 2008 from Tuxtla Gutierrez, Mexico
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The survivors

Todos Santos Cuchumatan, Guatemala


From what I'd heard I didn't think I'd be able to use the internet here in this small town in the mountains of western Guatemala, but it must have arrived just recently. Started another week of Spanish classes here yesterday, and last night at the Spanish school I attended a showing of a documentary on the war in this area during the 80's called "Todos_Santos: The Survivors." From the window of this internet cafe, I can see the church where according to the film the residents of the town were locked in while 5 of them were tortured and killed by the army.

During that period anyone who criticized the rich or the government was likely to be branded as a guerrilla supporter and terrorized or killed, often in the most horrific way possible to shock and intimidate the rest of the population. A lot like what has been happening in Colombia more recently.

Another disturbing aspect of the film was the enlistment of evangelicals in paramilitary militias to fight against guerrillas and anyone who was construed to be a sympathizer, including Catholics who were branded as sympathizers because of similarity between Catholic social teaching and the rhetoric of the guerrillas in regard to helping the poor. From the interviews in the film it appeared that many people may have converted to evangelicalism out of fear of further reprisals by the government. In the video clips of church services, I could see a lot of shouting and frenzied singing but not much evidence of humility or love for one's neighbor as oneself.


For fools speak foolishness
and make evil plans.
They practice ungodliness
and spread false teachings about the Lord.
They deprive the hungry of food
and give no water to the thirsty.

The smooth tricks of scoundrels are evil.
They plot crooked schemes.
They lie to convict the poor,
even when the cause of the poor is just.

Isaiah 32:6 & 7

permalink written by  cjones on July 22, 2008 from Todos Santos Cuchumatan, Guatemala
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La Laguna

San Pedro La Laguna, Guatemala


In my fourth week of Spanish classes, now at the same school as last September. Spending most of my time studying and reading in Spanish, and doing research online for future projects. Feeling the effects of the shrinking US dollar and high inflation in Guatemala - still relatively cheap but prices are at least 25% higher than 10 months ago.


permalink written by  cjones on July 31, 2008 from San Pedro La Laguna, Guatemala
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Other side

San Marcos La Laguna, Guatemala


Moved to San Marcos La Laguna on the the other side of the lake, and went for a walk along the north_shore.


On Thursday I met Julio, a teacher at the Spanish school who is also the husband of Vila, my teacher from last year. He invited me over to their house so after class the next day, I went there with him and he and Vila described the work they're doing to help the kids in the community. She stopped teaching at the Spanish school and is now running a free preschool in their very small house.

In addition to working with a local NGO to help kids do their homework (which apparently many local parents don't help with), he has started building a library in his house to lend books to kids and encourage them to read. According to him the kids don't have another place to borrow books since the public library doesn't lend books but only allows them to be used for 2 hours at a time in the library. He also meets regularly with the kids to discuss the books they're reading.

I was really inspired by this couple who has so little and spends their time and the very little money they have to help the local kids. They also have a child of their own - a boy about 3 or 4 years old. Julio is trying to build his library and keep multiple copies of some books so the kids can read and discuss them together. He has worked out an arrangement with a local owner of a tourist restaurant and internet cafe that sells and exchanges books in English. For 2 used books in English the owner purchases one book in Spanish and donates this to Julio's library.

If anyone is interested in contributing used books to this project - in Spanish or in English - let me know and I'll send the address to mail them to.

permalink written by  cjones on August 2, 2008 from San Marcos La Laguna, Guatemala
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Indigenous network

San Lucas Sacatepequez, Guatemala


I've been here again at FUNCEDESCRI for a week and a half now, mostly working on proposals to augment an existing project for media production and difusion centers in the indigenous communities where the organization works.

There will be one center at the headquarters in San Lucas Sacatepequez and 3 other centers in indigenous communities in different areas of the country. In each community, the people speak a different indigenous language and very few read or speak much Spanish. However, each center will employ 4 "tecnicos" who are bilingual in Spanish and the local dialect. There will be a computer center in each community, but none of these will have internet access, at least initially. Two of these are in a location with electrical service, and alternative energy sources such as solar are being investigated for the third. Communication among the centers in the communities will need to be accomplished by mobile phone or by using the internet service (internet cafe) in a nearby town. Because of the time involved with traveling to town and expense of using the internet, it will be probably be practical for the tecnicos in the communities to access the internet only once or twice per week.

In the center at the headquarters, there will be internet access, a training facility, and access to translators to translate the materials from one community into the dialect of the others (with Spanish being the standard interchange language).

Initially at least, the content of the media developed at the centers is expected to have to do with topics such as food sovereignty (i.e. production for local consumption), sustainable development alternatives, agriculture, conservation, nutrition, etc. The idea is to facilitate sharing of experiences and knowledge among the communities and to allow them to work together to build an alternative economy that is better for the people. FUNCEDESCRI does not intend to direct the content of the media, but rather to provide the tools to allow the communities to plan, design, and manage the media production and distribution process themselves.

permalink written by  cjones on August 13, 2008 from San Lucas Sacatepequez, Guatemala
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Tikal

Flores, Guatemala


Traveling now for 2 weeks before returning to San Lucas Sacatepequez to continue the work with FUNCEDESCRI. I've been staying in Flores since Saturday, and left the hostel a little after 3 this morning to catch the_sunrise in Tikal, about an hour and a half away by shuttle. Had an amazing view and concert of sound from above the canopy as the forest woke up to the new day. Tikal is an amazing national_park best known for its gigantic Mayan ruins, but situated right in the middle of the spectacular rainforest that covers much of the Guatemalan department of Peten. To me this is like the Yosemite of Guatemala with all the awesome scenery, and has probably the best opportunities for viewing wildlife in the rainforest that I've encountered so far. Saw and heard lots of monkeys, a coatimundi and tropical birds including many toucans and big green parrots.





permalink written by  cjones on August 18, 2008 from Flores, Guatemala
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Romero

San Salvador, El Salvador


Now I'm here in the capital city of El Salvador, on the rooftop of the hostel using the wireless internet, on a night with perfect weather - cooler than the lowland jungle of Peten but not cold as in San Lucas Sacatepequez.

This afternoon I visited 2 museums commemorating Oscar Romero, the renowned archbishop of this country who was killed in 1980 for his defense of the rights of the poor, and the 6 Jesuit priests and 2 assistants who were massacred by the army at the Universidad Centroamericana in 1989. Both of the museums were on the sites where the killings occurred (Romero was gunned down while performing mass at the church on the grounds of the hospital where he lived). Those events felt especially real and haunting at the university after I was shown some very graphic photos of the murdered and mutilated bodies in the living quarters I had just visited. The army responsible for these killings and for other massacres of entire villages of up to 1000 people - men, women and children - was secretly backed by the US government. In fact, several officials indicted in the "Iran Contra Affair" were subsequently appointed to high-ranking positions by the current administration, but few people in our country have learned about this.

permalink written by  cjones on August 21, 2008 from San Salvador, El Salvador
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