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Bolinao – Subic – Mariveles

a travel blog by Joey Carlotta


On hopefully what will be my last trip for the year, I am off with a team to Bolinao, Pangasinan to check on work currently going on in one of the hotels there and to scout for other sites in the area then off to SBMA in Zambales with a side trip to Mariveles, Bataan.

From Manila, we are heading up to Tarlac and taking the Romulo Highway straight to Alaminos passing the interior towns of Tarlac and Pangasinan such as Sta. Ignacia, Camiling, San Clemente, Mangataren, Aguilar, Bugallon, Labrador and Sual.

From Alaminos we follow the sun until the end of the road which is our first destination. After Bolinao we take the road less traveled going through Bani, Agno, Burgos, Dasol, Infanta and the first town of Zambales which is Sta, Cruz. From there it is a straight drive to Olongapo via towns such as Masinloc, Iba, San Narciso and the others in between.

A day before heading back to Manila from Subic we will take a side trip to check out Mariveles in Bataan. From Subic this route will take us through Dinalupihan, Hermosa and Orani, then through Pilar, Orion and Limay at the waist of the peninsula before rounding the southern tip to Bataan where Mariveles is located.

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Day 1

Bolinao, Philippines


I was told that the driving time to Bolinao using the Romulo Highway is 5 to 6 hours. Since my starting point is in Las Pinas, I added another hour to that. I had agreed to a meet-up time of 8:30 AM along EDSA with my team so I promptly left the house at 7:30. Traffic was relatively light on this departure for a change but I was still late for the appointed time by a few minutes. After a quick bite at Jolibee we were off by about 9 AM. After an hour or so we were exiting towards Luisita from NLEX where stopped for a cup of coffee and a smoke.

There is a further exit from NLEX coming out past Tarlac City but this will cause you to backtrack if you are going on the Romulo Highway. In any case, Luisita was an intended layover as it is such an agreeable place and a pity that they have not been able to make a real go of it. I enjoy the tree-lined streets and the expanses of sugar cane fields but you note a sense of abandonment and disuse. Robinson’s has taken over the mall and this will hopefully start to liven up the place. But in reality, a stop there is a must as it is the last Starbucks until Baguio and the end of civilization as some of us would prefer it.

It is a short distance from Luisita to the junction to Alaminos on the National Highway. It is actually a fork with a roundabout. The Grand Prix Hotel next to the Victory Liner station is a very visible landmark. Turning left on the fork and getting off the National Highway, you enter what I assume is the city proper of Tarlac. As you will often experience along this route, you will get to a one-way road with no signs to inform you what to do or where to go next. Turning right and then left on the first street, we crossed a major bridge after which we stopped to get directions. Fortunately it was a lucky guess and we were soon on the Romulo Highway and back in the countryside.

This road presents a pleasant change from the countryside we are familiar with passing through the National Highway going to Baguio or La Union. The landscape is very green and wooded if not flat and completely planted with rice. The road is asphalted with stretches of concrete and in very good condition. Gasoline stations quickly become few and far in between so I suggest you load up in Tarlac if you are low or particular about your fuel. We also discovered that there are no ATM’s until Alaminos so cash up too for incidentals. Despite the pesky tricycles slowing us down on the road, the towns flew by very quickly and we finally got a view of the sea somewhere between Labrador and Sual. Sual is big of fish with numerous stalls selling fresh catch along the road. Watermelon seemed to be in season too.

The drive from Tarlac to Alaminos is about another 2 hours. Alaminos is the last major town heading the opposite direction from Dagupan and Lingayen. It is really quite small but relatively busy. A mall has gone up since the last time I stopped there 3 or 4 years ago for lunch at McDonald’s on the way to Subic from Baguio. They now have Chowking and the ever present Jolibee as well. All the major banks also have branches there including BPI where we got some money. In the heart of Alaminos is a junction with one branch going to Zambales, another going to Bolinao and the third going to the wharves where you take a boat to Hundred Islands which is a place I must revisit soon. On our way to Subic from Bolinao we take a turn in Bani to Zambales that would meet up with the road starting at this fork.

Alaminos to Bolinao is another hour and a half. We missed the turn to the resorts and stopped at the town proper where we saw this magnificently old church. Getting directions to the resort area, we promised to return to explore the church on the way to Subic. It was another 10 kilometer drive on mostly unpaved road on the way to Puerto del Sol, our first stop. We passed a number of small resorts and I was starting to get worried about the quality of accommodations here specially with our business in mind. Puerto del Sol turned out to be quite a pleasant surprise and nothing near what we expected.

Puerto del Sol is a statement of class and quality. The beach is not that great but the golden brown sand is a great combination for the view of the breakers in the distance. The pool makes up for the swimming you miss in the ocean and the surrounding gardens, arranged and trimmed to perfection, almost obscure the Mediterranean style clusters of rooms made up in simplistic elegance. This theme flows into the dining area which has that old home feel with matching décor and furniture. Staying here comes with a price but worth every penny if you can afford it.

We visited other resorts which paled in comparison but had a treat at the Bolinao lighthouse which was along the way. The short climb rewards you with a sweeping view. The lighthouse and the adjoining building are very old but there was no information to be had as it was completely deserted although the lighthouse itself seems secured and self sustained with solar power and all.

permalink written by  Joey Carlotta on November 18, 2008 from Bolinao, Philippines
from the travel blog: Bolinao – Subic – Mariveles
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Day 2

Subic, Philippines


After making all our calls it was time to head to Subic but a visit to the old church was in order. The Bolinao church was built in honor of St. James who has been attributed for protecting the town while the surrounding areas would get devastated by typhoons. Outside the church there is a monument commemorating St. Ordonico, an Italian priest who supposedly said the first mass in the 1300’s there in Bolinao debunking history books claiming the same in Cebu in the 1500’s. The church will be celebrating its 400th year anniversary next year and a fete is in the planning. I hope that the sons and daughters of Bolinao come to the aid of their church as the interior is in a bad state. It is such a shame for something so historic and worth being really proud of.

We left Bolinao at about 10 AM and were informed that the drive would take about 4 to 5 hours. As earlier mentioned we turned southward in the town of Bani instead of going all the way back to Alaminos. The interior roads in this part of Pangasinan are narrow but well paved making for a pleasant drive. The countryside is resplendently green and beautiful as we move inland again before returning by the shore in Zambales. We stopped in Iba for a leg stretch and a smoke midway of the leg and arrived in Subic at about 6 PM. Please note that there is a town before Olongapo named Subic and not to be confused with SBMA which is in Olongapo. It is still half an hour to an hour from the town to Subic to SBMA depending on the traffic which can build up as you get closer to Olongapo proper.

The beaches along this stretch are really great and it is a wonder why no big resorts have been established. There are a number of islands off the coast that make for good day trips and even overnight stays. Past Iba you will notice the profusion of pine trees on the dunes by the shore. Nearer to Olongapo there is Crystal Beach in San Narciso which is a surfing destination but definitely not a place to swim specially for children. There are rooms and cottages for rent right on the beach. Surfing lessons and boards are likewise available.

The problem with the tricycles in the Alaminos to Olongapo road is just as bad if not worse than the Romulo Highway since traffic is denser. I don’t know if these guys talk to each other but they all have same modus operandi of slowing to a crawl when cars behind them are waiting to pass. Better to keep a safe distance from these pests.

permalink written by  Joey Carlotta on November 19, 2008 from Subic, Philippines
from the travel blog: Bolinao – Subic – Mariveles
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Day 3

Mariveles, Philippines


With business taken care of early and no other meetings scheduled until later in the day and early the next, the team and I decided to take a side trip to Mariveles in Bataan. We gathered that the drive would be 2 hours to get there. We left Subic at 10 AM exiting the Tipo Gate and entering the SCTEX for a short hop to the Dinalupihan exit.

This is one heck of drive. There road is highly elevated allowing magnificent views of the ocean on your left and ahead while on your right you see the majestic peaks that make up most of the backbone of the Bataan Peninsula. The road was not particularly great and this was obviously due to the many fuel tankers coming to and from the refineries. The Death March markers guide you all the way. In an hour and a half we were on a zigzag road heading down to the Bataan Export Processing Zone (BEPZA).

After looking around and deciding that there were no promising hotels or resorts in the area, we spotted a trade fair in the office grounds of the BEPZA. Being with two women, we just had to stop. What promised to be export overruns of the factories in the facility there turned out to be junk from China available in Divisoria and most tianges in Manila. Still, the girls came out of there with bags of supposedly Christmas shopping. We had lunch in a seaside restaurant and were on our way back by 2 PM.

The seaward view is dominated by Coregidor Island and the distant shore and mountains are actually Cavite. Coregidor Island is so close that you can hire a banca to get there. There are several spots along the road that advertise this facility. Heading back, the road level climbs again past the zigzag and there is a place to stop to take in a fantastic and unobstructed view of the island. The milestone for our stop was kilometer 7 of the Death March trail. There is a good concrete road heading down to the shore along which we parked. Behind you will be the equally fantastic sights of the mountain range of Bataan.

permalink written by  Joey Carlotta on November 20, 2008 from Mariveles, Philippines
from the travel blog: Bolinao – Subic – Mariveles
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Day 4

Manila, Philippines


By noon on our last day we had finished with business and it was time to head home. We could have stayed on a bit more but I wanted to avoid the rush hour traffic on EDSA. These last few kilometers always takes a toll on me specially after a long trip and several days away from the comfort and familiarity of home. There was a slow down near the exit of NLEX because of an overturned truck but EDSA, Coastal Road and Zapote-Alabang proved light and I was relaxing on my LA-Z Boy by 4 PM.

I start to feel the aches and sores from the drive coming on as the adrenaline from the drive recedes but it is with a sense of satisfaction as I review the details of the trips. We achieved our intended objectives plus a good time was had to boot. Personally, I traveled a new road, visited a new place and saw the changes or lack thereof in the places I had been to before. All in all a very satisfying and productive trip.

Getting back to those tricycles, please heed this word of caution. It was not bad enough that they were going about 5 kph on a national road, I noticed that they would intentionally put on their brakes to further slow you down. When waiting for oncoming traffic to pass before overtaking these menaces, your tendency is to tailgate the pests. Don’t! They will time it to slow down further right when you are about ready to pass them. You will be fortunate if you have quick eyes and reflexes and these will only work with the tricycles that have working tail lights. I noted that in most stretches there are narrow outer lanes which would appear to be intended for the use of these tricycles but they insist on staying in the very center of the road. This is a very dangerous problem which I think demands the attention of the concerned authorities. These are accidents waiting to happen if they haven’t happened already. SOMETHING MUST BE DONE ABOUT THIS! BAN TRICYCLES FROM NATIONAL ROADS!

permalink written by  Joey Carlotta on November 21, 2008 from Manila, Philippines
from the travel blog: Bolinao – Subic – Mariveles
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