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Stories

Stories I heard late at night by the campfire: Nasser was bitten by a snake while working at the farm last summer. He immediately sucked what he could out of the wound, applied a tourniquet to his arm, and was hauled off to Guerrera 30 kilometers away. There was no anti-venom available. As...

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on January 22, 2007 from Guerara, Algeria
from the travel blog: Harmattan

Flies

If the laws of Dispersion are such that you find the highest concentration of something at its point of origin, then I know we have come very close indeed to the source of all flies. It is here in the desert south of Guerrera. Flies on your lips Flies in your clothes Flies on your...

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on January 22, 2007 from Guerara, Algeria
from the travel blog: Harmattan

Movies

Wolf Gaudlitz is the German guy who got me into the country after that cold night at the border, and he is at “La Source” with his traveling picture show. So it is that one afternoon he mounts his very large movie screen to the side of his truck, hooks up his digital projector and amplifier and...

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on January 21, 2007 from Guerara, Algeria
from the travel blog: Harmattan

La Source

After hours of seriously uncomfortable cross-country travel over a generally trackless waste in a truck with deflated tires, after endless discussions about where we are going and whether we will find it at all since we started too late and the sun has already set, after even a few rants about...

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on January 20, 2007 from Guerara, Algeria
from the travel blog: Harmattan

Kherfi Freres

The water lies just twenty or thirty meters under the sand, electricity is inexpensive, and the land: there is plenty of it. In fact, as long as you work it, it is free. So it is that the Kherfi brothers started a farm in 1988 and imported Holstein cows from the Netherlands in 1993,...

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on January 18, 2007 from Guerara, Algeria
from the travel blog: Harmattan

Men With Guns

Over dinner with Said I casually mentioned my plan to bike to Guerrera, and he casually mentioned it to the local police, and they casually told him under no circumstances would I be allowed on the roads alone. No way. Had he not talked to the police I would have risked the trip by bicycle,...

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on January 17, 2007 from Guerara, Algeria
from the travel blog: Harmattan

Hope

I met Aliau Doiallo as he was working on a construction project in the palm grove where I am staying, and got the chance to hear his story over some olives and almonds and really strong mint tea.Aliau first left his home in Bamako, Mali at age 15, to find a job in Europe. He hitched 2200...

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on January 15, 2007 from Ghardaia, Algeria
from the travel blog: Harmattan

Party

Phone call from Wolf Gaudlitz: join him in Guerara tomorrow at Kherfi Ibrahim's for a party with the whole gang that got me into the country after a cold night stuck at the border. It's a 120km bike ride in the wrong direction, I'm hopelessly inept at parties, but I owe these guys a big thanks...

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on January 15, 2007 from Ghardaia, Algeria
from the travel blog: Harmattan

Brothers

I spent the day riding my bicycle all over the M’Zab valley, and then out of the valley to the desert above. The M’Zabites fled persecution to settle here in the cracks of the desert plain, creating a place so unique and consistent in its architecture that it is now protected by UNESCO. With...

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on January 13, 2007 from Ghardaia, Algeria
from the travel blog: Harmattan

Chez Said

Ahmed and I caught the 10pm bus for Ghardaia. I bought two tickets for 350 Dinar each, and found comfortable, upholstered seats. In the dark we headed west, a trip I had hoped to bicycle, a trip that would have taken me almost a week accomplished in 4 hours, a trip in utter darkness, stars,...

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on January 12, 2007 from Ghardaia, Algeria
from the travel blog: Harmattan

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