First European Adventure - A Gallipoli Experience - Tickles
This is the story of my adventures across Europe as part of my special visit to Gallipoli on Anzay Day 2006.

A day at the Meridian
Greenwich, United Kingdom
Spend most of the day with Brett visiting Greenwich - primarily to see the Observatory / Meridian Line, but on our wonders we also stopped at the Old Naval Academy. The Naval Academy is very impressive, with large common areas and fantastic dining halls - I’m sure this is the open scene for the Harrison Ford movie “Patriot Games”.
On the way home Brett took me to Soho - a very very busy shopping area - quite metropolitan.
written by  Tickles on April 10, 2006 from Greenwich, United Kingdom
from the travel blog: First European Adventure - A Gallipoli Experience

Arriving in London
London, United Kingdom
Arrived at Heathrow Airport in the early morning hours. Heathrow is quite an old, bland building - but love the ‘travelator’ which is very springy - almost feel like you are bouncing / floating down the hall.
After my first interesting experience with the rude and arrogant British Immigration officials, Brett met me at the arrivals hall. I was going to declare a large bottle of rum I had purchased for Brett, but there was no-one screening in Customs / Quarantine.
Getting to Brett’s place was an interesting experience - it took several different tube trains!!
In an attempt to overcome jet-lag, Brett and Therese took me for a tour around the main areas of London city - including West End and Piccadilly Circus.
written by  Tickles on April 9, 2006 from London, United Kingdom
from the travel blog: First European Adventure - A Gallipoli Experience

Last Day with the Piss Boy (Mannikan Pis) - Brussels
Brussels, Belgium
Unfortunately after a couple of days of wonderful sunny weather, I’ve been let down - it is dark and miserable here in Brussels today.
Started the day once more looking out across the Grand Place whilst having breakfast - if only the weather had been better.
Decided to brave the inclement weather and caught the Metro (train) out to the European Union area of Brussels. Wandered through Jubilee Park, just beautiful and green - even in the wet.
Spend several hours wondering around the Musee De Larmee Et De L’History (Museum of Military History) - quite an interested array of modern and ancient war artefacts.
Took a walk through Leopold Parc and visited the EU Parliament.
Visited the Konklisk Paleis / Palais Royal - whilst on my way to collecting some of the important and very tasty Belgian chocolates from a couple of small but well known stores (on the recommendation of some locals I had met).
I arrived at the airport early evening and had to sit around until about 2100hrs before I left - time to catch up on emails etc.
written by  Tickles on April 13, 2006 from Brussels, Belgium
from the travel blog: First European Adventure - A Gallipoli Experience

On to the main continent - Belguim
Brussels, Belgium
Left for Brussels in the morning on BMI Air - the airport (Heathrow) was a mad house, but I did manage to find the right plane. Plane was almost empty (to the point where I had a whole row of seats in front, behind and beside me empty).
Caught the training from Brussels airport to the CBD - attempted to find my hotel. Tip for new travellers - don’t ask the Police for directions - I ended up walking to the other side of the city before a friendly local pointed me back in the right direction.
Stayed at the Hotel Arlequin.
I took a walk around Grand Place and the surrounding area - managed to stumble upon Mannikin Pis. Had dinner on Rue De La Boucher - a very busy eating area with lots of pushy sales people.
My first experience with the European Hotel lifts was interested - they are hidden behind a door and are barely the size of a small cubicle - trying to get in with a backpack is interest , let alone trying to get more than one person in the lift!!
written by  Tickles on April 11, 2006 from Brussels, Belgium

A day with Belguim Customs Service
Brussels, Belgium
A lovely breakfast at the Hotel (included in the package) looking out across the roof-tops into Grand Place - a nice start to a wonderful day. The continental breakfast with the freshest pastries was divine.
Met with Belgian Customs today at the Zaventam Airport.
Spend the remainder of the afternoon wondering around Brussels - visited the Cathedral of St Michael & St Gidula. This places is spectacular on the outside and only gets better on the inside.
After wandering around today, I’ve started wondering about the Australian attitude towards international visitors. Here in Brussels shop owners seems to have to be able to converse in several languages in order to survive, but how many Australians have ever bothered to try to learn another language to assist international visitors who enter their stores. Isolation as a nation really does make us quite selfish.
I was having a wonderful dinner of Moules and Frites until some loud obnoxious Americans entered the place…god they shit me at times.
written by  Tickles on April 12, 2006 from Brussels, Belgium

Stonehenge and Bath - a cultural experience
Bath, United Kingdom
Therese organised for us to take a day trip to Stonehenge & Bath today - a rather long journey on a full bus (4 hours), especially after we were the last ones to be pick up and we got stuck in the non-adjustable and crappy seats at the back!
Stonehenge was interesting - especially given it was cold and wet - this just added to the aura of the place, but the 45 minutes spent there was probably about 30 minutes too long - there really isn’t that much to see or do, and you can’t get close to the stones as they are fenced off.
The weather improved dramatically between Stonehenge and Bath - it was just absolutely fantastic. The old Roman baths were amazing. The architecture was special.
Had my first “Cornish Pastie” since arrive - Dad would love these!!!
Two hours in Bath just isn’t long enough - it is a lovely town and one worthy of a weekend.
Purchased the first of my local rugby jerseys.
We passed Windsor Castle on the drive back from Bath - quite an impressive site and worth a visit if I have any days free towards the end of this trip.
written by  Tickles on April 14, 2006 from Bath, United Kingdom

To Market to Market - while London Bridge is still standing
London, United Kingdom
Up bright and early for a visit to Borough Markets - there is some amazing fresh food and produce at this market. Easy to see why Chefs like Jamie Oliver like to shop here. I could imagine myself doing a lot of damage to the bankcard at this markets if I lived in London. And Brett was pretty impressed with meet Rose Byrne (of Alexander fame)
Therese and Sarah decided to do a roast for dinner tomorrow and purchased all the meat and veggies here.
After a few hours at the Borough Markets we headed out to Nottinghill to visit the Portobello Markets - these are more arts, crafts and fashion markets. These markets expend over about 5 blocks and include a huge number of antique stores. I found some nifty bookstores. Well have to try to get back to this area during the week when there are less people.
Dinner at Brick Lane with Brett, Therese, Sarah, Chris and their friends. Brick Lane is famous for its curries - and the place we ate at was no exception. We stopped off at a couple of pubs on the way home - the amount of smoke in the pubs is awful - I certainly appreciate Australia’s hardline on no smoking indoors even more now.
written by  Tickles on April 15, 2006 from London, United Kingdom

Fifteen and the IWM and Curry - and nice day
London, United Kingdom
Another early start - but with good reason - breakfast at Restaurant Fifteen - Jamie Oliver’s Trattiora.
Amazing food - fresh and well prepared. The fresh squeezed juices in ice cold oddly shaped cups was a nice treat.
Tried Black Pudding for the first time - not bad actually.
After breakfast we went for a walk along the Thames between London Bridge and Tower Bridge. Walked past the Tower of London.
Spent the afternoon wondering around the Imperial War Museum - amazing and very interesting!!! Lots of interesting artefacts and a very touching and moving exhibition on the Jewish experience. There was also a very open and challenging exhibition about torture in the Museum.
Therese and Sarah cooked a fantastic roast dinner - pity they didn’t do the Yorkshire Pudding though!!
written by  Tickles on April 16, 2006 from London, United Kingdom

The FA Cup experience
Brett and Therese took me to an FA Cup premiership game (Charlton vs Portsmouth) - Charlton won 2:1.
Lots of noise and I almost got lynched when I clapped for the away team scoring a goal!!!
It says a lot about the community that they actually have a law the stops away supporters from being allowed to sit in the same areas of a football ground as home supporters.
It’s just a game - get some perspective.

St James Park - and just a general wander around London
Spent the day wondering around Westminister and St James Park - a lovely area for the centre of London.
Visited the Cabinet War Rooms (including the Churchill Museum). Quite interesting.
It is interesting to think about and reflect on how the fortunates and impact Churchill had on both British and Australian political and military history.
19 April 2006 - London
Spent the day preparing myself for a trip to Venice tomorrow and then on to Turkey the day after.

Venice - the Italian Experience (with the Swiss Alps on the way)
Venice, Italy
A very very early start this morning - have to get out to Stansted Airport for a 6am flight to Italy - Stansted is about 2.5 hours from London on the bus.
Travelling with a large group of Brett’s work colleagues for this day trip.
Venice is nicer than I was expecting - I had heard lots of stories about the smell and how dirty it was, but I actually found the place to be very nice. We spent most of the day just wondering around - it’s easy to get lost for a short while, but you always end up back on one of the main paths.
We had a lovely pizza for lunch at a quiet little Ma and Pa restaurant in the back of Venice - great traditional pizza and home brewed red wine - fantastic. Topped of my the violins and the local cat visiting us.
Dinner was at a nice restaurant on the edge of the main canal - pasta was the order of the day. A tad expensive for what we ordered, but it was in the main tourist area.
Our flight left at about 10pm and we arrived back at Stansted at about 10.30pm - due to typical British inefficiency and poor customer service it took a further 3 hours to get through Immigration Control - it was about 3am before we got home and I had to be up and out the house at 6am to make my flight to Turkey.
written by  Tickles on April 20, 2006 from Venice, Italy

The Start of my emotional journey to Gallipoli - Istanbul
Istanbul, Turkey
Arrived in Istanbul, Turkey at 1620hrs. Had to wait for about 40minutes for the ‘Tour’ company to be ready to leave.
Traffic was something that can only be seen to be believed - bumper to bumper and there is really no rules except for the largest and brashest and most constant horn driver taking priority.
Whilst sitting in the bus in a traffic jam we saw a young run coming sprinting up the street with a crowd of people in pursuit. Just as he crossed in front of us, one of the pursuers grabbed him and pulled out a pistol and pointed it at the young guys head. A tad freaky. The tour guide informed us (after getting off the bus ant joining the crowd) that the young guy was a pickpocket and the person with the gun was an undercover police officer. Whilst the crowd was waiting for the uniformed officers to arrive they pummelled the young guy - they take a very very dim view of crime obviously.
Finally got to the hotel at about 1800hrs - had an argument with the reception - they want to take my passport and hold on to it for a while, told them they had two chances of that ever happening - buckleys and none.
After dropping my bags in the room (my room mate had yet to arrive) I went down to the reception to meet our “Topdeck” Rep - Sarah Hopkins - and several other tour participants. We all went out for drinks on the local party strip at a place called “Just Bar”. There we meet several other Topdeck tour group participants and guides.
Dinner consisted of a few kebabs from the side of the street (possible not a smart start) and looks of “Efes” beer 0 until the early hours of the morning.
My roommate was there when I arrived back - we were impressed that a Muslim country could show porn on TV at night - interesting contrast in value systems!!
written by  Tickles on April 21, 2006 from Istanbul, Turkey

Istanbul - wow!!
Istanbul, Turkey
Had my first experience with a Turkish / Continental breakfast - cheese, olives, cold meat (not sure exactly what) and cay (tea).
A few of the tour participants who had booked in Australia (9 day tour - those who booked in Europe were on an 8 day tour) were taken on a bus tour of Istanbul today. Tour consisted of a visit to overlook the Golden Horn, to look around Mini-Ataturk (a miniature display of historic and significant Turkish sites) and the Transport Museum.
In the afternoon, after much bugging of the Tour Guide (Cengis) we visit the Grand Bazaar for a short time (about 40 minutes). An interesting experience, one you have to do, but not something I really enjoyed. Hard sellers and very demanding - certainly not somewhere you just think you’re going to be able to wonder around and browse. It was mentally and physically exhausting.
One of the really great experiences of the day was trying a wide range of cay - these people really do know how to make a great tea.
Getting more and more excited about going to Gallipoli - especially as we see more and more Australians around.
Another hard night at “Just Bar”!! Only had a slightly sensitive stomach this morning from last nights kebabs - so we had more again!!
written by  Tickles on April 22, 2006 from Istanbul, Turkey

The History of Istanbul - awesome
Istanbul, Turkey
Walking tour of Istanbul with the full Tour Group. Visited the Cistern, Bascillica, Hippodrome and Topkapi Palace.
We were told that legend has it that the Medusa heads in the Cistern are upside down because a worker got the shits with his boss and laid them incorrectly as pay back.
You really come to appreciate the history of this place when you wonder around Topkapi Palace and see how worn the granite steps are - you can only imagine how long they’ve been around to be so worn down.
Highlight of the day was a decision to go and watch the ANZAC Fanatics play a local soccer team in their annual ANZAC game. The tour guide wasn’t keen to go, but as the tour had technically finished I offered to take a group with me - in the end the whole tour group came along. Lots of drink and cheering and mixing with the locals, streakers - it was great fun - even if the ANZACS did lose in a penalty shootout. All money raised by the Fanatics on the day (from drinks, food and memorabilia) was given to the local soccer team to give to local charities.
This evening we had a cruise on the Bosphorous starting at dusk - it was spectacular. The cruise included a number of other Topdeck and Fez tour groups and there was lots of drinking and further partying at “Just Bar” afterwards - only downside was that Peter (roommate) managed to lock me out - he crashed and burned - and reception couldn’t open the door with their master key - ended up sleeping in reception, not a great experience.
Tomorrow we head to Gallipoli - there is a strange feeling amongst the group.
A quote from “Right Turn at Istanbul”:
‘You know why you go there don’t you…that’s where your people learned that they were different from the English. You found your soul there, so you have to keep coming back to pay your respects. Your country started there, and so did our country. You know about Ataturk? If he hadn’t fought your grandfathers at Gallipoli, he wouldn’t have become the man to save Turkey and make it a new independent country.’
written by  Tickles on April 23, 2006 from Istanbul, Turkey

Gallipoli - Our Sacred Place
Gallipoli, Turkey
Left for Gallipoli about 8am. It is a quiet drive (about 4 hours) with many of us sleeping off hangovers and the effects of a great night.
Stopped at a ‘service centre’ for lunch - not great idea on our tender stomaches, but one of our crew managed to neck a bottle of Vodka and get himself wiped out - made a fool of himself (especially with his mates telling everyone he wouldn’t spew - which he obviously did end up doing - the nurses on the bus had to hose him down at one of the memorials!!).
The closer we got to Gallipoli the more surreal the feeling was on the bus - there seemed to be a mix of excitement, reflection and anxiety at what we were about to experience.
First stop at Gallipoli was Lone Pine. Pulling into the area was quite emotional and a very moving experience - its hard to fully appreciate the true extent of the tragedy of Gallipoli until you see the graves and truly appreciate the geography of the area.
I spent our ½ hour of time just wondering around by myself looking at the names on the graves and contemplating the waste of life.
We visit several memorial areas including the Turkish (57th Reg) Memorial and the New Zealand Memorial (Chunk Bair) before we left for ANZAC Cove.
Arrived at ANZAC Cove at approximately 5pm and secured ourselves a spot right on the side of the stage area and in front of the Cove.
A very serene sunset - with the Sphinx looking down from behind me - quite an amazing experience.
The Anzacs would never have stood a chance when they arrived - how they survived and achieved so much astounds me - they were bloody marvellous.
written by  Tickles on April 24, 2006 from Gallipoli, Turkey

ANZAC Cove - ANZAC Day 2006
Gallipoli, Turkey
Cold! Cold! Cold!
Little sleep during the night due to the crowded and very very cold conditions @ Anzac Cove. There were estimated to be between 8,000 to 10,000 people - the organisers had apparently only been expecting between 5,000-6,000 people this year with the increased security and tighter alcohol controls.
We have a great position - corner of the stage right on the edge of the Cove with the Sphinx directly behind us - quite spectacular.
An amazingly serene sunset last night.
During the night the organisers provided Bands (playing music from the period Circa 1915), Andrew Denton interviews and a number of short videos about the landing and the campaign.
It is hard to truly appreciate the magnitude of what the Anzacs faced - at least until you see and experience it yourself.
It is hard - actually impossible - to describe accurately the emotions that this place is causing me, and many around me - this is a very special and sacred place.
There is a very strange feeling in the crowd as 0430hrs approaches (the time the first ANZACS started that final journey to the Cove). There is no moonlight and the place has a quiet hush about it - no breeze, just a very cold stillness.
At 5am a special orchestra piece (“Spirit of Peace”) was played and the silence became even more pronounced in the lead up to the Dawn Service.
As part of the Spirit of Peace there is an accompanying light show across the mountain ranges and the Sphinx - very impressive and a great scene setter for the Dawn Service.
Sadness, appreciation, reflection, surreal - these are descriptors that only barely touch the feelings that I experienced during the Dawn Service.
Listening to the Last Post as the first rays of light reach over the hill leaves no-one untouched in the crowd.
The Governor-General gave a fantastic and inspirational speech.
The Turkish Officers recitation of the Ataturk promise was ‘surprising’ but also very patriotic - a proud nation who have developed a great friendship / kinship with Australia.
At the end of the Service the Governor-General came and spoke with us. A wonderful man with a sense of peace & knowledge - also very personable and seemed genuine in his expression of thanks to us for coming to pay our respects.
Took the opportunity to spend some time sitting on the beach at the Cove and reflecting on the ANZAC story - what it means to Australia and our values.
I hope that I am living my life in a way that honours the values of those first ANZACS.
Looking at the many gravestones it is easy to understanding the meaning of a ‘Lost Generation’. Unlike many of those first ANZACS, I’ve had a change to get to 30 - I really hope that I have not wasted this opportunity.
As a tour group (we looked great in the same blue tour tops), we walked up from the Cove to Lone Pine. We had a path and struggled on the climb - how the hell did the ANZACS make it up here without paths and with all their kit whilst being shot at???? It took us about 90mins to climb.
The Lone Pine service was quite moving. I thought it was a great mark of respect that Veterans of all wars in the audience were acknowledged with an extended ovation.
I had an hour before the service began at Lone Pine and spent the time studying the gravestones - what a sad loss.
After Lone Pine we had several hours before the buses would be allowed to come into the Gallipoli area to collect us from the furtherest point inland that the ANZACS reached (Chunuk Bair). A few of us spent the time wondering around the Gallipoli area, visiting places like Baby 700, The Nek, etc. The size of these areas are staggering. They are SO small!!! How is it possible so many lives could be lost for so little ground!!
The Turks are a very passionate and intense group of people. Whilst we were not allowed into their memorial service for the 57th Regiment, we could certainly hear it outside - I also got some amazing video of on of the guard groups leaving the memorial - very impressive.
The method for having people leave Gallipoli is a fantastic study in chaos theory!!! 8,000 odd people all trying to be herded into tour groups and onto buses was a sight to see.
Our bus was very quiet on the 3hr trip south from Gallipoli in the afternoon - people were either sleeping or reflecting on their experiences in their diaries.
We arrived in Kucukkuyu at about 5pm absolutely exhausted. Early dinner and early to bed for this little bunny - and pretty much everyone else as well.
written by  Tickles on April 25, 2006 from Gallipoli, Turkey

The Ageanic Experience
Kusadasi, Turkey
After a long and very deep sleep we left Kucukkuyu for Kusadusi via the Acropolis at Pergamum.
We stayed in a very nice “holiday resort” on the edge of the Adriatic Sea - a quick dip in the morning was very refreshing.
Pergamum is an amazing Roman ruin set high on a mountain - how anyone was ever able to invade this city is beside my comprehension - let alone imagining how they managed to build such a huge place in the first place.
During the day we visited a Turkish Carpet store - for a ‘flying carpet show’ (basically the sales pitch involved giving out drinks of Raki and throwing carpets in the air!!!). I purchased a carpet for Elise and Paul.
Our trip to Kusadusi was long - we arrived after 11pm. With promises of a late start and plenty of free-time the next day there was much drinking of Efes & Raki occurred.
written by  Tickles on April 26, 2006 from Kusadasi, Turkey

Kusadasi - A disappointment from the Tour operator
Kusadasi, Turkey
Promises of free time for self-exploration never eventuated. Everyone, including the Top Deck representative is pissed off at the Tour Guide from ‘Fez Travel’- starting to get a sour taste about this tour - just crap organisation.
No-one knows entry fees until we get to the specific place making it hard for us to have money on hand - getting to an ATM is near impossible due to lack of free time.
Today we also did Tour Guide ‘directed’ visits to a leather, jewellery & sweets ‘stores’ - 3 hours wasted.
Also visited the home of the Virgin Mary - am apparently now a ‘Blessed / Haji’ person!!
We’re all sick of buffets and some of us are thinking of trying to find our own dinner in Kusadusi tonight. With a long road trip to Istanbul tomorrow I think it will be wise to stay off the grog this evening.
written by  Tickles on April 27, 2006 from Kusadasi, Turkey

A return to the ancient city - Istanbul
Long trip to Istanbul (12 hours) - only real break was at a gas station buffet where the food was very very very dodgy…complaints to tour guide fell on deaf ears - he just doesn’t give a rats arse.
On the way back to Istanbul we stopped in Busra to visit the Mosque (probably seen enough of these now!) and to visit the famous Silk Bazaar - Mum and Elise would have loved the Bazaar, there were hundreds of wedding stores!!!
We had a fantastic group dinner and lots of drinks in the party strip of Istanbul - our last official night together as a Tour Group.