Traveling Africa Overland - afrikawasbeer
My 2 friends and I are traveling from Tangier to Cape Town over the next 3 months. We travel via public transport only because we want to be a part of the pulse as much as possible.
Dakar and...

The Crew
Cape Town, South Africa
The Crew:
Neill Goosen
Neill Goosen is from Maclear, Kwazulu-Natal originally. He went to Stellenbosch University after school and completed his masters in Chemical Engineering. Neill's passion for fisheries will culminate when he applies himself to doctorate studies in Sustainable Fisheries in 2010. I have known Neill for about 2 years now and he's a swell guy. His head is screwed on right and he knows what he wants from life. Neill is a born adventurer and was always looking for the off-the-beat-track trips while still living in London. I think Neill will be a solid crew member because of his street savvy mindset and keen adventure spirit.
Iakovos Dimitriades
Iakovos Dimitriades was born close to Thessaloniki, Greece. He moved to Greater Durban area in his teens and finished high school in SA. He then moved to Bloemfontein where he finished BAcc (Hons) and got educated in the finer ways of Afrikanerdom (I think if it wasn't for the Afrikaans influence in his life, he would have been a bum today ;) Iak and I got on really well since day 1. We shared a room for about 4 months before he hit the South East Asia routes for 4 months. Iak has been a great friend of mine and I think that his culturally sensitive heart will add great value to the crew. He counts others higher than himself and is always keen to get to know and understand others. He also has a wicked sense of humor which will surely be welcome at times!
Walter Fieuw
I am from a town called Paarl in the Western Cape originally; lived here all my life. I finished high school here and then was faced with two options: Theology of Business Management. I decided to follow my passion and completed my studies in Theology in a town called Wellington. I then moved to London where I've worked in finances for the past two and a half years. I am expecting that I will learn the African continent first hand on this trip. I intend to return to SA to study Development Studies at UCT in 2010 (insh'Allah) and therefore a understanding of the people will be greatly beneficiary. I've always wanted to do an adventure trip of such proportions (maybe the start of many!) and going through this with a open mind and heart is a given to me. I hope to add some culture to the crew by having a bit of exposure to West African music. I also hope to document this trip by photo and video to have these awesome memoirs!
Bon Voyage!
written by  afrikawasbeer on September 28, 2009 from Cape Town, South Africa
from the travel blog: Traveling Africa Overland

Northern Cape Escapades
Cape Town, South Africa
I have been home for the past month and loving every moment of it. During this time, I had the chance to travel the Northern Cape of SA, a landmass that can be cruel to its people with drought and desertification always a fear. A few 100km's past Springbok is often called the Boesmanland but no one really know its boundaries. Salt mines are a common thing here. Legends circulate these lands and Borrie and I had the chance to chase some of these stories.
Before I met Borrie, I had the chance to visit a good friend from London days at their farm close to Garries. Stella is a keen photographer and teaches for a living. She told me so many stories about the farm and the Namakwaland people and so visiting them seemed natural to me. Oom Gert is also a renowned writer and the author of two excellent books, Vonke uit die Koeroeklip and As Murasies kon Praat. These are real stories of real people going about their peculiar lives. The evening we ate the Bushdoves that Nelis shot accompanied with sheep heart, liver, udder, kidney and other delicacies. I also had the opportunity to shoot my first of 5 Steenbok and went through the blood drink and raw kidney initiation. Great success!
Catholic Church, Pella, Northern Cape, SA
So I met Borrie in Springbok and after some sundowners on the N7, we drove through to Klein-Pella for the night. Waking up to the smell of fresh coffee gave us inspiration for the day. Here we had the chance to visit one of the most legendary SA religious landmarks found by a the gravel road town of Pella. Imagine this: The little cathedral was built from a photograph and none of the builders had adequate experience at the time. But it stills stands strong after 127 years and hopefully will do for some time to come. We drove along hundreds of kilometer's gravel road passed town and farms with the most bizzare name. These included: Keep Faith, Hope Lost, etc. We crossed some picturesque passes studded with the remains of the wild flower season that attract many nature lovers to these remote areas. Now there was this legendary guy, Johnny, hanging around in Vanrhynshoop. He is as Afrikaans as they come, but he tried to convince Borrie and I that he was from Durban and he wanted money to meet a relative. We offered that we will help him if he can find the missing registration plate (which we lost on the gravel roads) and he was quick to roll under the bakkie and examine, only to reply that he couldn't find it! We agreed to settle the beggar/ giver relationship by given him two oranges for lunch.
Walter and Johnny
Unwelcome morning sun
But before me looms the past 6 months' planning and the idea that it is now just 7 days ahead of me is kinda scary. Its all well and good to have this time mapped out, but the fear of the unknown can be quite overwhelming at times. I think that the best way to get past this fear is to live between the parameters of sensibility but also not to be prejudice in my view of the land and people.
All in all; an adventure of a lifetime lies ahead and I can't wait to get my teeth stuck into it.
PS: Any suggestions for good, entertaining reading material? I had in mind to read Tolstoy's War and Peace but wondering if it wont be too deep :|
written by  afrikawasbeer on October 1, 2009 from Cape Town, South Africa
from the travel blog: Traveling Africa Overland

Great Start?
Cape Town, South Africa
So last night I arrive well in advance for my 19:00 flight to London via Doha, Qatar. On checkin the lady advises that there are massive delays in the J'burg - Cape Town transfer. So I see the new expected time of arrival is 22:00. Now what would you do to kill 3 hours? Listen to the latest Putumayo albums? I did so too. But while I was being swept away at the mystery expressed in African music, the PA system calls me with great urgency. Only once I layed my earphones down I hear my name being called.
'Will pasanger Walter Fieuw please reported to checkin desk 16'. I immediately knew something was wrong as the QR586 flight is no longer on the notice boards. So in my dazed condition, I run back past the passport control on my way to the front of the airport to get to checkin desk 16. However, I was stopped by an ACSA staff member advising me that I am illegally in the country as I was already checked out. After trying to convince the Police at the Passport control that I have already been checked in, I rush to find a Qatar representative.
'Naomi, what has happenned? Why are you looking for me? Where is the QR586 flight?' I was frantic. She told me that I missed the flight that was re-routed on BA and therefore missed my flight. 'But what does this mean Naomi? Am I stuck here now? I need to get to London Naomi; I really need to get to London!' So she put me on the KLM flight and I reached London via Amsterdam today safely... I hope this is the first and the last that this happens!!
written by  afrikawasbeer on October 6, 2009 from Cape Town, South Africa
from the travel blog: Traveling Africa Overland

Morocco
Tanger, Morocco
(This is an arabic keyboard and its blerrie tough to get these keys right!)
Inside Djemaa el Fna
We arrived in Marrakech on Wednesday. Djemaa el Fna, the large square in the middle of the old city, was pulsating with energy as its well known for, even in off-season. The last time I was here, it was really a baptism of fire with over zealous vendors pushing to make a sale. But this time round, especially with a low tourist season, it was much more bearable. Djemaa el Fna is a gem. Every night the restuarants set up their scaffolding and they charm their guests from the square. There are dedicated people that just go out and hunt for people to eat at their stand. During the day, The square is littered with snake charmers, crazy head-swinging-clapping dancers, monkey tamers, etc etc; everything that makes an African market place, just more commercialised. Street culture here is something to talk about. I sometimes wonder if crime was less in South Africa, if we could also have what these people have. Crime really steals from culture - lets work to eradicate it!!
Djemaa el Fna from a terrasse
Walter and Ryan; July 2009
We didnt hang around to long and took the night train to Tangiers which is right in the north of Morocco. We were met by Ryan and Haitam. I have known Ryan for a while now and we have had some cool times together. He is an American doing his final thesis in cultural studies. In many ways we have so many thoughts in common so hanging out is always a joy! I met Haitam last time I was here with Emma and he is such a swell guy. We have never met before at that time, and he treated us like royal guests. The fabled genoristy of the Arab culture is personified in Haitam (so Haitam if you ever read this; you are a legend!) Anyway, so Tangiers is really a cool place. We joined Ryan to a meal with volanteers from the Streetchildren NGO where he works. We had some awesome seafood paella with Belgians, and a French- and Spanish guy (thanks for the crash course in Flamenca, Camil!). All in all, Tangiers is such a rish place. The Spanish coast is 20 odd km from across the bay and clearly visible. There are so many immigrants here all whishing for the better life of Europe. Just outside this internet cafe is a wall called the lazy wall. In the evenings its packed with people just taring over the coast and schming plans to get there but everyone is too lazy to get there. I was wondering whether the West is partly blamed for creating this flase illusions that everything is nice where we come from. I wonder how many people who successfully (and it will cost you 3,500 euros) crossed the straight will confess that the grass is not ,uch greener on the other side.
At 15:15 we will get on a 36h bus that will take us into the heart of West Sahara. We have decided its time to push on to get to Nauochott, Dakar and Bamako!
written by  afrikawasbeer on October 11, 2009 from Tanger, Morocco

46 Hour Bus
Agadir, Morocco
I wish you were here
The last few hours in Tangiers was really fun. We went up to this lookout point having a view of the entire Tangiers on the one side and Spain on the other side of the straight. We had this huge Subway tipe sandwhich stuffed with chips, mince meat, egg and other delicacies. It was here that Niel started making hand signs and talking nonsense. We just discarded this as one of Niel^s special moments. And so we attempted this humungous trip acrossing the length of Morocco and pushing deep in West Sahara. We started on Sunday evening at midnight en route Casablanca. This was the first 6 hours of this gruling journey. It was not 2 hours into the trip when Niel had his episode: in a bus with no toilet. Luckily it was from the top and not the bottom so we tucked him in and waited for the stop. Everyone was clearly exhausted and I did not think straight, leaving my camera bag on the bus. We had to wait for it to come back and wasted 3 hours in which we really wanted to see the 3rd largest mosque in the world, Hasan 2. Maybe this was a blessing in disguise...
Tangier Terasse Hotel
And so we pushed on - at a frustrating max speed of about 90km/h. This was the speed of the entire journey and clearly frustrations aboutmaking so little distance in the time we spend. At Agadir we changed busses and the leg space was reduced by about a 1/3. My feet started swelling up and Iak also began feeling the fatigue of the journey. We met Stuart, a Brit on route Dakhla, West Sahara for a kite surfing gathering. He grew up in SA so it was nice to have some chats about the experiences he had back in the day and also about the Cult, Motorhead and other cool bands! We are on about 21 hours and still a few to go. We also met this very shy Senegalese guy and communicated even though we couldnt talk to one another. He liked Jason Upton on my mp3 player...
Stix spying on border police
We always knew that West Sahara would be intersting as its a Moroccan protectorate and many encounters with the police would be inevitable. We were stopped about 6 times asking the same questions. After the "rd time when explaining our occupation was Accountant/ Finance we switched to saying wr worked on computers and this seemed to do the trick! We were also very pleased to see that Stix Green (!!) joined our party and will hopefully give inspiration in times of need! Once we came into West Sahara, the contrast of landscape was uneal. On the right you had the vast Atlantic ocean and of the left the Sahara desert. I thought of the change our planet is undergoing and that deforestation and desertification could be disasterous for all of us.
A Solitary man was standing on the edge of a great cliff
I asked him where he was going
The desert thirst for his company;
And the ocean would not come to rest without his closeness
The sky, adorned in Heaven^s brushstrokes, was content
Dakhla by night
And finally we arrive in Daklha. This isnt a great picture but maybe it will give you an idea. It took us 46 hours to get here and we were well stoked to start looking for accomodation. Now we need to organise transport into Mauritania as there is no big bus company doing this trip. Our hope is a taxi to the border and then busses or to hitch a lift with people going that way... lets see how this works out!
written by  afrikawasbeer on October 14, 2009 from Agadir, Morocco

First Border Crossing
Nouadhibou, Mauritania
Dakar Rally world
In the last entry I mentioned that we should now be looking for transport to the Mauritanian border and then push on to the capital Nouakchott. Well this was the procedure of events from Dakhla onward. We walk around in Dakhla on the lookout for a hotel that organises trips to Nouakchott. 4 hotels tell us that it will cost us 600 Dirhams, about 60 Euro. And so we decide on Hotel Sahara, and the 1/3 deposit is on the table. 'Are you guys traveling to Mauritania?' an odd accent from around the corner. And so we met the 58 year old Portugese man. He told us that we were being ripped off. The deal going with him was: You pay petrol and if the cops catch you, I pay the petrol and you pay the fine. The risk element lay in the fact that 2 of us will be laying in the back of his Nissan Cargo van-converted-to-a-mini-caravan vehicle at all times. So we think about it and next morning we are off, deciding that saving 3/4 of the 'normal' price is worth the risk.
Iak and Walt after first police check!
The first check point came only 6km from Dakhla. Iakovos and I are in the back. Passport check. Check the back of the van - and there lies the Greek and Belgian, stressing out. He calls us out and marches us to the police stop. I was really thinking this is the end of the lift and that we were going to be fined and sent back. But all is on our side and the police man whishes us a bon voyage! GREAT SUCCESS! And so starts the journey through the hot Sahara desert on a single lane highway crossing through the ever shifting dunes. This roads is only about 3 to 4 years old and the old roads was mostly covered in sand. A few years ago this must have been a deadly journey.
We reach the border crossing after a tiring drive. I was very interested to see whether the stories of these gruling border crossings were true or not. And it proved to be true. We arrived there at 16:00 with the knowledge that the Mauritanian border closes at 18:00. The Moroccan police keep us there for 2 1/2 hours and after bribes of cigarettes and money, they let us through. Then follows the 4 km Polisario held Western Sahara land under UN administration: an active minefield. We cross this and luckily they give us our last visas.
So an eventful first border crossing to say the least. But we made it and feel much more street smart now.
written by  afrikawasbeer on October 15, 2009 from Nouadhibou, Mauritania

Mauritania
Nouakchott, Mauritania
Nouadhibou
The last 2 nights we spent in Nouadhibou. We met Mahoudi last night and he was very entertaining. Iak and Niell wanted to try out camel meat and he said that he will be glad to make it for us. So we buy camel rump and cook it with onions in its own juices. This is then ate with bread - and what a delicacy it was!
The crew and truck on Highway Sahara
We then continued the trip onward to Nouakchott, 400 km from Nouadhibou. This is really Dakar Rally country and like I said in the last blog, the previous road that was still in use just a few years ago was completely under sand at times. We pushed through this very hot and humid day. This Portugese man is proving to be a real character. He tells us stories through his broken English about his travels over the past 20 years. He was a sailor for the majority of his life and now travels his pension through the world. He tells us that he has traveled around the world twice now and this is the second time he is doing Africa from top to bottom. North and South American, Asian highlands, Pacific; you name it, he's been there. We also met this one cool French surfer guy In Nouadhibou. We hoped to travel together to Dakar, but then things didn't work out in the back of the Nissan Corgo van. He has been traveling the world looking for the perfect wave for 10 years now. He said that in his Central American surf expeditions he found a deserted surfer shack in Guitamala and lived there for a year, surfing perfect, uncrowded A-frame tubes every day... What a life!!! He goes where the wind blows him.
Sahara Highway
On the road again - some thoughts came to me. Adventurers don't really think in the mindset of top-10 things or 'favorites' because they understand that every country/landscape/people group is uniaue in its own context. Driving through the Sahara, I saw something that was the exact opposite of this philosophy of cultural sensitivity. On the back of a Mauritanian roadsign, the graffiti said 'Scholtz to South Africa'. I thought that these people consider their overland trip more precious than respect for Mauritania. To be honest, not a whole lot happens here, but the arrogance of thinking that we own things while we travel offends me. That we can even become consumers of adventure/ travel/ 'otherness' and in so doing totally loose our humanity. I hope that we will never become like that.
We will be in Nouakchott to get our visas for Senegal and Mali and then we are off to experience West Africa music which I am sure will not dissappoint!
written by  afrikawasbeer on October 17, 2009 from Nouakchott, Mauritania

Stray Birds
Nouakchott, Mauritania
Some thoughts from Rabindranath Tagore's Stray Birds on a hot Saharan day:
When I travelled to here and to there, I was tired of thee, O Road, but now when thou leadest me to everywhere I am wedded to thee in love.
What you are you do not see, what you see is your shadow.
My wishes are fools, they shout across thy songs, my Master. Let me but listen.
The Perfect decks itself in beauty for the love of the Imperfect.
The infant flower opens its bud and cries, "Dear World, please do not fade."
Power said to the world, "You are mine. The world kept it prisoner on her throne. Love said to the world, "I am thine." The world gave it the freedom of her House.
The noise of the moment scoffs at the music of the Eternal.
Asks the Possible to the Impossible, "Where is your dwelling place?"
"In the dreams of the impotent," comes the answer.
"I am ashamed of my emptiness," said the Word to the Work.
"I know how poor I am when I see you," said the Work to the Word
written by  afrikawasbeer on October 19, 2009 from Nouakchott, Mauritania

Movement
Rosso, Mauritania
Movement leaves an impact on us. Think about the bittersweet emotions on airports. Or the therapeutic tap-tap of trains passing over the sleepers. What about the 'staring into the distance' when traveling by sea or river. All considered, when we move, we grow as we dream and think and muse.
This line from a song is playing in my head:
'If they asks for the sign of the Father in you, tell them its movement, movement, movement' mwY
And then I'm listening to this song a lot...
In Exile, by: Thrice
I am in exile, a sojourner
A citizen of some other place
All I've seen is just a glimmer in a shadowy mirror
But I know, one day we'll see face to face
I am a nomad, a wanderer
I have nowhere to lay my head down
There's no point in putting roots too deep when I'm moving on
Not settling for this unsettling town
My heart is filled with songs of forever
The city that endures when all is made new
I know I don't belong here, I'll never
Call this place my home, I'm just passing through
I am a pilgrim, a voyager
I won't rest until my lips touch the shore
Of the land that I've been longing for as long as I've lived
Where they'll be no penalties anymore
So whether you're reaching up, reaching in, our reaching out; always keep on moving because stagnation kills the soul.
written by  afrikawasbeer on October 19, 2009 from Rosso, Mauritania

Baptism of Fire
Dakar, Senegal
Senegal - What lies ahead?
Whew, a whole lot has happened in the last 48 hours. We set out from Nouakchott, very excited to see Senegal even though we heard it could be a gruling place. Driving past the informal settlement of the last few hundred kilometers of Mauritania, crossing a fiery border was far from my mind. But so we arrived at the border. The persistant hands and faces through the windows signified that we were in for zealous deal makers. We were met by a Mauritanian border police man. He took our passports. Silence. 'You're visas expired 2 days ago' fell like a hammer on ice. We looked, and would be damned, but he was right. When we entered the country, the border police back dated the visa by 3 days from a sunday to a sunday, thus leaving us illegal in 'no man's land'. But there's a price for everything in Africa and once we agreed on a new visa of $30 each, we were on the move. We have a persistant tail with us ensuring that he will look after us. We crossed over the River Senegal on a vehicle ferry. What lies ahead would be our baptism of fire, the first real African border crossing going solo (we lost contact with George and his Nissan cargo van in Nouakchott as we stayed at different places).
The barricade is lowered. Out rushes people with large 'mielie sakke' and trucks, 4x4s etc; in rushes sunglasses sellers, money changers, etc. So at this sensory overload, people take chances. Walking through the knee deep waters of the River Senegal, a man in his civvies ask for our passports. The tail tells us he is police. But I have no proof that these guys are scammers and I refuse to comply. The man gets aggressive. The people crowd and move among us. I persist. He persists. The tail comforts sayings its okay, and we hand it over. Off he goes, on we go. We are lead to a small room where we wait. 5 minutes. Money changers enter. 20 minutes. They push for deals but we wait for the passports. 35 minutes. And the relief; he is back, asking for cash for border stamps. We give it and he is off again. But I follow him this time and face up to the legitimate police, who hands over Neill and my passports; Iakovos' being kept behind. The reason? Greece isn't in Euro Zone and Hellenist isn't a nationality, only Greek. We knew a bribe was in the making. Long story short, we ended up speaking to the police chief who assured the police man Iak has a legit entry into Senegal. But the police man's pride is dented and keeps pushing Iak's passport to the back. Eventually, after 2 hours of border corssing, we are walking off to the garage; only to start the next experience: the African bussing system!
We arrive at the garage for a lift to Dakar. We find a good looking bus with amper space for 4 people. The driver says we leave in 30 minutes and we agree that its a good deal and pay the cash. 3 hours (!!) later, we are off. And instead of 4 people, 8 people. We are sour. On top of that, the driver short cutted the Customs regulations and we were stopped 4 times, unpacking most of the bus. So this 370km journey ended up taking us 13 hours to complete, arriving the the big, dangerous, Johannesburg-type city of Dakar. Its 3 am, we are tired. After getting a taxi to central Dakar, the receptionist at the hotel refuses that we pay in the morning, and we dont have cash yet. No ATMs around. So we walk out on him and go and sit at a Shell garage, waiting for sunrise to get a room and sleep the day through. All went well and we are rested again. I was also very nearly mugged today and if I had something in my left shorts pocket, it would have been stolen now.
So basically, just really the ropes of the notorious French West Africa at the moment. We feel much more street smart and understand the thugs' tricks. But all considered, loving these people and cant wait to see some live music tomorrow evening
written by  afrikawasbeer on October 21, 2009 from Dakar, Senegal

I love this city
Dakar, Senegal
Waiting in 40°C for the bus to leave
Its amazing how a few favourable or unfavourable experiences can shape your view of a city, restuarant, clothing brand, nationality, race, car make, etc etc... We were all a bit dispondend of Dakar and Senegal as a whole having been hassled, bribed, lied too, and almost mugged. But today changed all of this. One positive experience made us appreciate this city all over again.
Family Business
Nouakchott beach
Let's play
Colorful boats
We had the same thing happen in Nouakchott, Mauritania. We were down out and discouraged with the way things were going. If it was not the lack of stuff to do, it was the feeling of being robbed for time (very selfish I know...) Then we went to the big fish market on the outskirts of the city and this was really nice sight. Colourful boats filled the beach for miles and the awesome comeradery among the local fishermen. Also all the kids being part of the family business and the involvement of everyone on that beach made it a festival of friendship and togetherness.
Dakar viewed from Goree Island
And here, in Dakar, this morning we took the ferry out to Goree Island, the very popular slave trading post just a few kilometers of the coast. This island life and relaxed vibe put us straight back into the mix. The buildings were beautiful pastel coloured and teeming with a different sort of outlook on life. Kids were playing football amongst these 100's year old buildings and couldn't care less. The island is only 300x900m so walkable in just a few hours. Swimming in the cristal clear water just made us realise again that we are on holiday and shouldn't be so bummed out!
Goree Island harbor
Back in the city I just realised that I really like this place. Its got a ape Town vibe to it, with the agro factor of downtown Jo'burg and the street markets of Durban; if I can compare it to what I know. The city is also teeming with life and will buzz till 3am this morning, guarenteed. Streets are filled with people pushing to make sales of sunglasses, Orange sim cards, jeans, t-shirts, etc etc - a normal African city in operation. The difference here is that this was once the Administrative capital of French West Africa back in the days of exploitation, so it seems that everything works well. The streets are filled with massive tour busses of Europeans and big hotels line the prominade facing the Atlantic. The influence of rich European banks are seen everywhere and the people drive their Audi Q7's, VW Tuareqs, BWM X5's etc. But yeah - all in all a pleasant city.
Jac and le Takeifa
Tonight we are going to a gig at the very posh French Institute and tomorrow we are heading out for Bamako, Mali which is something that I have been looking forward to for a long time. We then hope to travel upstream the Niger river for 3 days to a town called Mpti. If this is not possible we will just bus it. But at Mopti starts the Dogon country and this is sure to be one of the highlights of West Africa. We plan to hike among the mountains and Dogon people for a few days and then start making our way into Burkina Faso... all in good time!
written by  afrikawasbeer on October 22, 2009 from Dakar, Senegal

Mali: First Impressions
Diboli, Mali
'I am a prehistoric fish with transparent ribcage. I am a Zulu shield with assegai. The eyes of a fierce lion is locked on me. I am in the bosom of an African mother.' The cresent moon plays tricks with my mind as she paints through the openings in the dark cloud roof of this West African afternoon. The lion's eyes still follow me, asking about the intent of my visit. I shy away from confrontation. Boabab sillouttes stud the horizon. The cool humid draft through the bus window cleanses my memory of this torturous bus journey. Far away, lightning strikes and illuminates the great outstreched plains. Darkness falls quickly now and the land is quite. All waits in anticipation for the next strike. This time its closer, and the bolt pierces the angry night. The space the bus occupies fall dead quiet. We are one with the road. And then God reaches down from uppebove in a mighty display of power and majesty. The land trembles and groans under the weight of His hand. She submits to her Maker. Then all is dark. The lion sleeps. I am in Mali.
Mali Impressions
written by  afrikawasbeer on October 25, 2009 from Diboli, Mali

Good friends we make
Bamako, Mali
i met a local guy at our hostel. he only had the chance to go to school till grade 6. But he is one of those guys that you will never forget. We started talking about development in Africa, and his thoughts and theories blew me away. Some of the things he said:
'We need to settle on a transparent society and combat corruptions and its likes. We need to learn by experience and avoid making the listakes of our forefathers. Let us jointly combat the injustices that causes us to spend our monies on expensive weaponry. WE NEED NOT STORNG MEN BUT STRONG INSTITUTIONS FOR THE PEOPLE AND BY THE PEOPLE.'
i wish I could give this man the opprtunity that he never had... I know he will be a success
written by  afrikawasbeer on October 27, 2009 from Bamako, Mali

Mopti and beyond
Mopti, Mali
island life... not always easy!
River Bani
So we finished our time and headed out to Mopti, about 500 km from Bamako. To be honest, I was a bit dissappointed by Bamako but only because I had a huge expectation for it. I love the album Dimanche a Bamako by Amadou et Mariam, a blind couple from Mali, and listening to this album created a certain feel for the city. Manu Chao also collaborated on this album and, if you know his stuff, you will appreciate my expectation! But all well and good, we met some cool people and relaxed in the city. Spirits were also a bit down after a very lng tedious bus journey (wait, didnt I write about this perviously?) We visited the fetish market and gor hold of some inside info how to really spin the gods' dice in order to get what you want. pretty grim afterthought. But arriving in Mopti in the north east of Mali was quite a pleasant Surprise.
Neill doing his business
See the thing is, when you travel and have your guide book as the bible, you start making plans and plotting your route. And soon you become the master of your little route. And then you have some experiences that is counter to what you have first believed, and its at this time then the real feel of a town or a place hits you. Mopti was really an unexpected pleasant Surprise. We arrived from the bus and a man offered his services. We were going to this hotel in any way, so following him seemed natural (and you dont really have that when someone offers his courtesy as a kick-back is always expected). So we followed Seidou to YasNas Problem hotel and settled in for the night. He introduced himself as a tour guide for the Dogon Country and came in at a reasonable price. We came here for this reason so were stoked to have met him. The next day we signed a self-written contract and had a nice cruise along the river, fishing and wishing the sun a fairwell over the hrzon. Till tomorrow then...
written by  afrikawasbeer on November 3, 2009 from Mopti, Mali

Dogon Country
Endem, Mali
looking...
Our trip started from a town called Bandiagara. The Dogon country is an escaprpment with a steep cliff face. All along the top and the bottom of this villagers have settled in small communities. We basically crissed crossed up and down the escarpment on a flipping awesome trekking experience... We trekked through millet and rice fields, crocodile rivers (wether there are still crocs we had a debate!), vast fields of cattle herding and a day in the rain. We actually cheated a bit in that we got porters to carry our bags along the +- 35km we did in 2 1/2 days. The only reason being that we went straight to the border from here and each bag was about 18kg... we felt like colonial slave drivers :-]
The history of the Dogon people goes something like this (dont have my note book on me so its not dead accurate). Four families settled in this valley around 700AD. The influence of Islam was spreading rapidly across north and the interior of Africa and reached the Dogon people. The older generation converted from their Animalist worship by means of animal sacrifice and fetishes to Islam. But the younger folk was disgrunteled and moved south west to Keyes area. The older brothers pursued them and met in Bamako (translater river of the crocodile). After some convincing, the younger ones agreed to head back to the Dogon villages. But that nightm while the older brothers was sleeping, they set out again for Djenne. Here they spent 3 years seeking concil on their ways. The oldrs brothers couldnt find them and went back to theuir camps. And then the younger brothers completed their circle route and went to settle in the Dogon country again, maintaining their animalist ways. And so you will find tranditional villages, Islam, catholic etc etc in this valley. Quite bizzare actually! but a great learning experience. Our guide Seidou was really cool and informative!
Iak (note man boobs), Neilas and me
The crew was stoked to get back out in the wild again. Its been 3 weeks of tough traveling which included 2 40-hours busses (Tangier to Dakhla, Dakar to Bamako) and completing almost 6500km in 3 weeks. So its been great to just get soaked with some culture and
written by  afrikawasbeer on November 4, 2009 from Endem, Mali

Thoughts on Consumerism in Travel
Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso
After the Dogon country we left for Ouagadougou. We met some Frencies on the road and was nice to have some insider info on life in Ouaga. Burkina Faso was alsways just going to be a pass through country. An' I'm been a-tinking a while...
Often time in travels (and the tougher part of it) it really gets to you and brings out the best (and worst) in you. And especially on 'adventure traveling' like overlanding Africa, traveling SE Asia, South America, India, whatever. I first started thinking about this concept in Mauritania where I saw someone graffiti their mission, Sholtz to SA, on a roadsign. I figgered that those people regarded their little trip in higher esteem than the sanctity and uniqueness of Mauritania and its people. And you see it everywhere; is fashionable to talk about development or doing volanteering or 'helping the poor' etc etc. Now I'm not saying this is the case for everyone, but is the sickness of our generation.
People many times treat 'developing countries' as a means to fulfil their craving 'to mean something'. And in so doing we place ourselves higher than others and in our helping, we actually dont help them be themselves. That in our charity we can rob others. We become consumers of tourism and become arrogant in what we think we know about cultures or peoples or regions etc. That we compared one people group to another and can say 'I like this, but that is not so nice as the other one'. We put on cultural filters and view all the experiences we have through them and become judges of what we like as opposed to what they like.
And this was the case in Burkina Faso too. We could have seen this as just a pass through country and our attitude could have been like that. We were only there for 3 days so what can you really expect? But the city really left a pleasant after tase with live music and the like. Also met Baba, a local, who went far out of his way to entertain us. He took us out on scooters and we drove through the city and then into the millet and rice fields, over rivers, through villages until we found a small village where we bought a chicken, slaughtered it in the field, and spread it out on the naked flames. These kinda things you won t have if you dont embrace every culture as sacred. not that we have found a good balance in that, but i strive to it... let's love people truly, not for self gain
written by  afrikawasbeer on November 6, 2009 from Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso

Livin' it Up!
Takoradi, Ghana
From Ouagadougou, where I last wrote from, we traveled straight down to Accra, Ghana in a 17hour bus trip. It was bearable, expect for the heat that drained every last bit of energy out of you as the bus comes to a still stand. The 'Aircon' that was advertised was actually just two ventilation holes in the roof. But this was nothing new by now so when we arrived in Accra at 3am, we just slept till the sun rose and then set out for a hotel. Accra is a weird city. Coming from predominantly Muslim French West Africa, the in-your-face Pentacostal Christianity was quite a change. Everywhere banners advertising the latest outpouring of the Holy Ghost is displayed. for the rest of the city the shops are adorned in Christenese, MTN sponsored labels. It is like the christian version of Alice in Wonderland. You can get a 'oh my God' haircut, or get furniture at 'the Lord's casket' or get internet at 'resurrection power communication centre'... Why not try 'Jesus is Lord Machanics' for a car breakdown or go to 'The Great Provider General Wholesalers'. Its all right here in the Pentacostal capital of the world!
After a few formalities inc securing our Accra - Douala, Cameroon flight (we decided to fly across Nigeria after seeing District-9... jokes!!), we headed out for the Green Turtle Lodge some 300km down the Ghanaian coast. On arrival, we were all blown away. This is a eco-lodge with almost zero impact on the environment. Its run on solar energy and the sewerage is worked back into the earth. The building material is also all natural. But more than this, it faced a nice outstreched beach with fun 3ft shore breaks for body surfing. What a place to veg for the next 6 days! So, as you could expect, I dont have too much news on the last few days. We met some really cool people and I take some great conversations along for the rest of the trip.
But a few words on the lodge. The owner and his wife wanted to work in development and he did a few jobs in agencies in London. But then felt the need to be involved hands-on. The options were Mozambique and Ghana. Deciding on Ghana, they got this nice piece of land sandwiched between two villages and the beach. In one of the villages, the child mortality rate is 1:5 which is shocking, these people really need help. So their lodge is part of a greater view on development where they use this as a launchpad to work with these communities. They also set up a Green Turtle conservation project to help these endangered species (I saw one laying eggs then hurrying back into the ocean; awesome sight). I think there is still a lot of opportunities in combining eco-tourism with development work. And it was so cool to see this in practice...
So all in all a very cool 6 days and now we have two days to kill in which we will visit some slave castles and walk a huge hanging bridge over the tropical forest. Then we will go back to Accra and fly to Douala, Cameroon on Tuesday from where we will aim to hike the highest mountain in West Africa, Mount Cameroon... exciting times ahead!
written by  afrikawasbeer on November 13, 2009 from Takoradi, Ghana

Rainforest
Cape Coast, Ghana
Day two in Cape Coast and we decided to head out to the Kakum National Park, a rainforest conservation. We started early morning and got lucky with a early pickup on especial Ghanaian public transport; the tro0tro. Its something similar to South African taxi/ minibusses. We climbed the 23km hill dodging potholes and picking and dropping new friends as we went along. Ronny, the German who has been traveling with us for the past 7 days, is very keen to befriend every single person he comes across. Strange days are on us!
let's go!
Kakum park is nothing spectacular. But its conservation projects like these that make news head lines of deforestation relevant. West Africa once had an indigenous rain forest stretch from Guinea in the west, inland up to Burkina Faso and all along the coast to Togo and Benin. Now all that remains is a few projects like Kakum in Ghana and some in other neighbouring countries. All of this destruction of essential natural green spots happened in the past 60 years. In the visitors centre, one board read that if deforestation continues like it has in the past, 3 unique species will be wiped out every hour. Stuff like this makes me so angry, you know? Its like, 'What have we become?' And where do we start; what impact can a few people make? Maybe we can start by always checking the timber source of all furniture and other wood products. If its not from sustainable forests, we should boycott it. Hit them where it hurts most; the bottom line. We need to drive down the market for these products and stop these thieves. Its really a problem, and we can all make a difference.
Anyway, I'm getting sidetracked. So we decided on going on the suspension bridge, one of the biggest 4 in the world. It hangs 40m above the forest floor and consists of 7 bridges with stations in between. Its was a really fun walk and great to have a birds eye view on the forest canopy and surroundings. The steel ladder with rickety plywood board is supported by a net bound over the ropes. I've never been great with highest so this was quite a scarey sight at times, especially when you have some idiots for friends stalking you and swinging it ever slightly. Jeez, with friends like these... :)
All that remains for Cape Coast is visiting the slave museum and castle (which is more famous these days for Barak and Michelle Obama visiting a few months ago than its rich history; joke). Then tonight should be quite good too with a cultural night at Oasis bar. If they have Ghanaian acrobats as the ones we saw in Ouagadougou, its gonna be a super night!
written by  afrikawasbeer on November 14, 2009 from Cape Coast, Ghana

Day 1 - Mount Cameroon
Douala, Cameroon
We arrived at Douala via Lagos on the Virgin Nigeria flight. Things worked out quite well for us from here as we could get transport from Douala to Beua in 2 hours, saving us almost half a day. At the Presbeterian Church Guest House, where we camped, we met Lifafa who runs a tour agency down town. He proposed a price we were happy with and after a good night's rest, we were ready to take on the mountain.
First thing on the Wednesday morning we went to do our shopping. On the menu: Sardines and Spaghetti/Rice in a tomato sauce for all four days we were on the mountain. We got one porter to carry the food and the rest (tent, sleeping bags and mats, clothes and water) was up to us. This came to about 30kg between the 3 of us. The route started out at the foot of the mountain in the village Beau about 900m above sea level. The initial gradient of the mountain scared the crapper out of me. The mountain path lead through some dense rainforest and an hour into it I was already doubting my ability to finish what I started. I had a big part of the weight (carrying the tent for the most) which tired me out like crazy. After about 3 hours of intense hiking I felt the lactic acid pumping into my thighs and calves and I was dreading the hike all over again. But soon after we reached Hut#1 where we stopped for lunch. This was a very welcome break for me...
honesty
We are hiking up the Guiness Trail, the route for the legendary 'Race of Hope' that takes place on the mountain around September each year. The winner usually runs to the summit and back in about 4h20min. Absolute respect to these machines! We left the dense forest soon after Hut#1 and were welcomed to an ever increasing gradient, but this time savanna grassland. Its too steep for the trees to grow here. Underfoot the soil is volcanic black and very fertile. I soon came out of my moan session and started feeling a bit stronger. The gradient was getting very steep now and soon we will walk for 3min and rest for 1min. We are absolutely drenched in sweat. Cramps are common now and how to maintain the stretch is the main priority.
gradient vs. horizon - the battle
looking...
dead man walking
After about 7h hike from the outset, we arrive at Hut#2 at about 17:00 where we set tent for the night. Thinking back on the day, for me personally, there is a sense of accomplishment after a near defeat. The menu will be spaghetti and tomato source with sardines... not looking forward!
written by  afrikawasbeer on November 18, 2009 from Douala, Cameroon

Day 2 - Mount Cameroon
Limbe, Cameroon
We left Hut#2 at about 8:30 the morning. Last night Iak continued to have the shits (for the last 3 days now) and I had a vommit session. So we were both broken men at the start of it all. So, hoe eet mens n mielie? Happie vir happie natuurlik! We decided to ascend the summit by relaying the heavy bag with the tent in 20min slots. This seemed to do the trick as Iak's bag was a bit lighter and gave enough time to get some energy back... the gradient was bearable this way and we made steady progress for the summit.
We reached Hut#3 at about 11am and after a good break, were ready to take on the beast. We followed the remains of an eruption (Mt. Cameroon is an active volcano with the last eruption in 2000) which made for quite painful trek up the summit. Here, nothing grows but moss and strange volcanic plant life! This lead us up many deceptively looking peaks that we, in our tiredness, continually mistook for the summit. We followed the jagged edges and surprizingly stumbled on the summit... there was no dramatic procession or deep stirring in the mountain or muffled drum beatings - just another peak and thats the summit... justice! It seems like the whole frikin mountain was the summit! We had the chance to write a message in the exclusive book on the summit for those who reached it.
But what goes up, must come down. That's just logic right? But not in this way surely... just a few meters from the summit we saw what waited for us - the same gradient we came up was the way down to the backside of the mountain facing the ocean (we obviously had zero visibility as we were above the clouds). And here started one of the toughest sessions of the trip. We were virtually running down the sandy mountainside, slip-n-slide style. The landscape flatend after a while and we were now crossing the remains of a lava settlement. The jagged edges were still very tough underfoot and we had to be careful to to twist ankles and knees. It almost looks like above-water coral reefs with strange moss and cactus like flowers forcing their roots down. This landscape flattened again to a grassland and we were hiking through waist to chest high grasses and then Canola-like flowers. After this, we hikied through the 1999 lava craters. Sulpher fumes were still coming out of the black mountain and this stretched for at least 3km, partly filled with vegetation. A truly remarkable sight... We ended the day, exhausted, in a sub-tropical forest where we will sleep in a very dodgy looking grass shelter tonight. Goid only knows what lives in here. But this ends a day where we walked through 5 different landscapes: 1. Summit; 2. Lava settlements; 3. Grasslands; 4. Black soil lava craters and 5. Forest.
summit
magma residue
written by  afrikawasbeer on November 19, 2009 from Limbe, Cameroon

Day 3 - Mount Cameroon
Limbe, Cameroon
(Scroll down to Day1 for the whole story)
Usually our days end when the sun sets, we scout for good food and hit a few beers. But this does not seem to be the case on the mountain. Its an equal battle to charge the batteries than to run them flat. We slept in a grass-shelter last night and God only knows what lived inside this hut. We threw out the tent and slept on it as it was too hot, but this exposed us to the creepy crawlies. At 1am Neill was up and we all heard some scattering footsteps in the shelter... at 3am the creepy ran over him - we think it was a mouse but could have been some undiscovered mountain specie too! I woke up with red spots all over me, signs of our dirty conditions leaving its mark... But breakfast broke a long fast (of sleep!) with rice and tomato sauce left overs up for grabs.
The day started soon after and we were now heading for the deep reaches of the rainforest that lies to the backside of the mountain, facing the ocean. A light fog pushes through the forest illuminating the canopy and undergrowth with an emerald green. The smell of decaying has-been plant life is then relieved by the happy mountain herb scents. But this is pretty much the last of wondering eyes and wishful thinking because a slug session lay ahead of us. Its head down and trekking time. It rained last night so everything becomes an obstacle. Roots and sharp edged rocks almost claimed ankles and knees at various times. Easy over the slippery ground... We are also in forest elephant territory and everywhere we track these gentle giants. Unfortunately they were not to be seen, but judging by the slipping and sliding, we didnt expect them to hang around to meet us. I am not sure if the elephant are maintaining the hunter's tracks or vice versa.
After about 4 1/2 hours of hard trekking, we stop for a well deserved lunch - bread and chocolate spread (that beats the socks off Nutella). The remainder of the day went really well as we continued to push hard and at 15:30 we reached our stop for the night.
The next mroning we only had a few hours to do and we reached the village of Bankingili at 11am. Lifafa was very late but eventually picked us up and brought us to Limbe. And we the giant still stalks us everyday from here in Limbe. It was a very hard trek and we are all walking with limbs and stretched knee ligaments, but this is softened with a frikin awesome experience!
written by  afrikawasbeer on November 21, 2009 from Limbe, Cameroon

Black Beaches
Limbe, Cameroon
We decided to stop the ship at Limbe for the remainder of our time in Cameroon. Yesterday we went to this insane black volcanic beach where we had some fun in the sun. So not too much to write after Mt. Cameroon but East Africa awaits after a welcome stop over in the fazerland, saffafrica...
written by  afrikawasbeer on November 24, 2009 from Limbe, Cameroon

Go East!
Jinja, Uganda
From Cameroon we flew out of Douala on Thursday. We have always planned to fly across the Congo and other Central African countries to get to Uganda and start the East leg. But what we didnt expect is that we will have a days stop over in Joburg. My flipping kief pal from back in the day came to fetch us from the airport and we had a legend time. But to be honest, Joburg and South Africa is really much more advanced than anything we saw in West Africa. It was like we were on another continent!
We flew from SA to Uganda on Sunday and descending on the vast in-land ocean like Lake Victoria, we knew that we were in for something special in Uganda. We are literally on the Equator and have had a cloud break every night so far around 3-5am. We are in the town Jinja (pronounced as a fusion of 'ginger' and 'jihad' !!! ) getting ready for 'probably the best grade 5 rapids in the world' on the source of the Nile River. We are in the valley of the origin of the Nile and its as awesome as it sounds! We leave for the river tomorrow so more to follow soon. But with only 4 countries to cover in 6 weeks (the second half of the trip) we are planning to hit the slowdown button and enjoy the space more. West Africa seemed a bit rushed at times and we are stoked to have this time in the East now!
written by  afrikawasbeer on November 30, 2009 from Jinja, Uganda

'A haiku journey around the world' by DE Wasake (Ugandan poet)
Jinja, Uganda
Classical warmth
Snow falling heavily,
Am sitted by the fireplace;
Beethoven is warming my soul.
Chang in the Field,
Planting rice,
The wind blows gently.
Walking by the docks
Walking by the docks,
Marley is playing,
Conch* is frying.
In Osaka
In Osaka sipping sake,
And eating rice cake,
At a roadside café named Wasake.
The carnivore crowd
Carnivore queens, Carnivore drums
Making me smile, making my heart dance.
Mother kangaroo,
Mother kangaroo, crossing the desert road,
Mother driving the car, stops to let her hop past.
At home
Opening the window,
The Savannah grass dancing in the wind,
An elephant walks by.
D E Wasake Esq.
13 April 2007
haiku-Traditional japanese poetry, typically written in one to three lines.
conch(pronounced "cank") is an edible marine snail, probably the national dish of The Bahamas.Comes in different forms;crack conch, conch fritters, conch salad etc
written by  afrikawasbeer on December 1, 2009 from Jinja, Uganda

Nile River Explorers
Jinja, Uganda
Nile Special Beer - nice!
Day 1: Orientation started at 8:30 where we had some breakfast. We will be 3 boats on the river today, with our boat (Neill, Iak and I) doing the rapids over two days. So we packed our stuff and drove down to the river, were we launched and splashed around. Training drills included flipping the boat, rolling down small accelerations, 'getting down and holding for life' and others. We are on the Source of the White Nile, home to 'some of the best grade 5 rapids in the world'. Our guide, Thoubani, is a Zimbo and really cool oke.
Raait; so first grade 5 of the day was Bujungali Falls. Its two small rapids hitting one after the other. We went smoothly through the first one but hit the 2nd on awkwardly and to my side and flipped me out of the boat like a sunny-side up egg. But it was all worth it. We decided that we need to gain more speed and then hit them head on. OK, we are all agreed! Second one is 50-50, indicating your chance of making it. Its another over-the-falls type rapid with a washing machine effect at the bottom. We hit it, spun sideways and were just mauling with the rapid before the leading side flipped over capsizing our boat. I was on the far side so got some air time before crashing down. The last big one of the day was the biggest grade 5 on the river called Silverback. Its an insane rapid with all that water channelling down a narrow stretch and then fanning out again. We came down, hit it straight on and then unfortunately it spitted us out to the left side. We had to row back into its embrace but now all the momentum was lost. We retired for the day at a luxurious eco-tourism lodge on the bank of the river called The Haven. It was every dollar worth doing the trip over two days thinking back on the lodge. We ate steak and chicked and fish fillets, all luxuries compared to our usual African street food diet! We pulled out the rods but only got small karp, but still the first catch of the trip!
White Nile sunset
Neill, Tubani, Iak
moonshadows
Day 2: This morning the support crew came around again and over smaller rubber-duck raft were substituted for a bigger raft with a frame for double-paddle rowing. This will prove to be the most frustrating part of the day. The first rapid was a full on 2m waterfall you drop down head first called Overtime. But because of the frame, we had to steer to the left for a foofy-slide ride, missing the waterfall because of the frame. This sucked. All the others got to do the waterfall :( Longer stretches of rowing lay ahead today with fewer rapids. The next big one was Retrospect which was another fun slip-n-slide type ride. This lead to the the grade 6 rapid Itanda Falls, where we had to take the boat out of the water and carry it over to the grade 5 called The Bad Place. This was an easy one but once again the reinforced boat made it easier (cause many flip over here). The day ended with a beer at the resort The Hairy Lemon and we also packed up.
A solid two days of rafting with no real photos to show for it. Highly recommended if you ever come this way of the continent for only $125. Come on!
written by  afrikawasbeer on December 3, 2009 from Jinja, Uganda

First Impressions | 2
Gisenyi, Rwanda
Today I wanted to take a photo but it just didn't feel right. I am in the taxi minibus from Cyanika to Ruhengeri here in Rwanda. A very pretty woman enters the minibus. Our eyes meet briefly and we share a 'hello' wink. She swings around in full axle to get a good seating. On her back, the most adoreable baby girl is strapped in abba position. Her eyes are a watery gloss and distant, hosted by two slightly chubby cheeks. And in climbs the dad who I could have taken for a thug judged on first impressions. His dirty check shirt tucked into slightly oversized jeans. His teeth are rotten to sharp edges. Despite his appearances, he has a certain warm look on his face.
The taxi sets off with a few humps and bumps. We follow the curve and everyone is looking to the 'Land of a Thousand Hills'; a landscape that doesn't fail to impress time and time again. A few more curves and we swing back and forth. The dad, now moving for the first time, looks to his left and gazes into his baby girls' eyes. There is affection in their soundless conversation. Then he moves swiftly, placing his hand squarely over her face; the way you would want to make a puppy sleep when stroking its nose bridge only irritates the puppy. I frown. Okay, time to let go now; you will suffocate her. And then he cups his hands in a periscope fashion forming tunnel vision; their eyes locked in a secret admiration for only them to see one another. A smile trickles over his chapped lips...
written by  afrikawasbeer on December 13, 2009 from Gisenyi, Rwanda

Nile Perch - The Great Hunt
I havent been very good with blogging of late and will give this one the best shot i can in 20minutes remaining! Last week, when we arrived back from the rapids, we were faced with two tough choices: Murchenson Falls or Lake Victoria. But we had a common mission - to catch some of the last 50+kg Nile Perch!
We chatted to the very cool guy who owns NRE, John, and he highly recommended the Lake, especially as a budget option. We went down to the old sailing club and met Emmanuel, who is a captain of what we call a 'banana boat'. We agreed a very reasonable rate per day and set out to go shopping for a 5-7day Lake trip, living inbetween islands completely untouched by tourism. We were going to be freshwater pirates for a good few days. So after we stocked up and got 100l of fuel and 3 crates of beer (and food...), we got going.
Day1: We are heading out far beyond Buvuma Island and hoping to circle it by midmorning. After doing so we launched our divers and trauled the waters of the lookout for the fresh water beasts! After a 2 hour session we decided to call it a day and seeked island refuge, a storm brewing often over these waters. After scouting, we found a nice pebbler beach, met the 'Chairman of the Beach' (who was very inquisitive of how modern fishing works - yeah i'm an expert - NOT!) and set camp.
Day 2: We woke up with an awesome sunrise and the waterleft claiming one of Neill's slops! So we got trauling again... but nothing. We decide to head deeper. By now frustrations are high - and Emmanuel is doing his best to comfort us saying that everyone is complaining that the locals and fishing the Lake empty. Day two ends and we end up buying fish from the kids, great for the confidence!
Day 3: Again a traul session and we stopped for luch this time. After lunch we decided to cast the line for a bite. The big fish rods now placed to one side and we are hoping to salvage our reputation (or Iak and Neill's for that matter) by opting for Talapia. We then a tug, and a pull and Neill pulls in a nice 1.5kg Talapia... we are very happy.
Day 4: Jubilant at the fish we caught, we decide its time to get back to the shore.
We are still men! yeah, fresh water pirates with a 1.5kg Talapia to show for our great ambitions! But to be fair, Emmanuel did say that everyone is complaning...
written by  afrikawasbeer on December 9, 2009 from Jinja, Uganda

Lake Kivu and Beyond
Kibuye, Rwanda
I greeted Iak and Neill this morning when they went their own way. My mission for the morning is to get some info on traveling down south the Lake Kivu. First stop was the harbor to hear about boat connection but after two guys told me its US$ 30 I laughed them off. I raced back to the taxi-park to hopefully get the taxi at 12:00, one told me it going, the other said its not. But at last it rocks up and I’m 2nd in the que for a ticket. Destination: Kibuye. I don’t know how to do justice in describing the landscape. Rwanda is famous for the ‘Land of a Thosand Hills’ which is close to the Rwenzori mountains, but this is it man; welcome to the gazillion hills. Its so beautiful… Lake Kivu, cultured volcanic lands, forest and fields meeting hand in hand…
Twin Volcanoes
I came into the town late that night so I had no appreciation for the Lonely Planet’s description of my lodging of ‘great views’ over Lake Kivu. I just went to bed. I woke up early cause I went to bed early and…
‘You’ll be rewarded for your efforts (it was quite a walk) with good measure of peace and tranquility’ continues the guide book. Even if I was a distinguished poet, I would struggle to find words to describe this sight. Home Saint Jean is situated on one of the points of Lake Kivu as it etches into the mainland and therefore I have a full-on 180’ panoramic view of the Lake. I have thus far only admired this from the road, but now I’m on it!
Lake Kivu
Its 6:43 and I am surrounded by tropical birdsong (I’m trying to soak in every moment). A white–chest raven just made a loop in a downward spiral before disappearing in the forest. Oe-oe-oe-ahh is relayed by a sharp Kaaa! the birds speaking in their native tongue; they have not been colonized or ‘civilized’. Now I’m looking at the water surface. Usually there is a distinguishable ebb-and-flow, but this water almost ripples upwards; as if pushed by a great, unseen force. There’s not much beaches here; the forest literally reaching the waterfront. I wish I could call these birds and flowers by their name proper, but as Shakespeare (R&J) said, "What's in a name? That which we call a rose; by any other name would smell as sweet."’ (thanks Iak for that one-liner the other day!) So I will call this one white-chest raven, and that one over there, hanging suspended between water and sky, ‘Red crunched petals with a splash of yellow’; that one is more complicated, (hmmm) ‘Purple Trumpet’ it shall be.
‘Allah Akbar’. The muffled prayer call from the mosque is absorbed by the land.
written by  afrikawasbeer on December 15, 2009 from Kibuye, Rwanda

First Impressions | Poverty Mindset
Kibuye, Rwanda
Last night a guy came to me in the dorm here at Home Saint Jean and said he is very happy to meet me and ‘See you later’. I didn’t see him…
This morning he found me at the breakfast table. Evode, his name. ‘I want to come and ask how you can help me go to your country. I want a good job, good life’.
SHIT! I thought I will strangle this guy (this was the n-th time that I hear this request)
But I chose to be Christian this one time (!). I told him that what he asks is not possible. After some small talk I decide I will tell him how it is. “Yes, I am a Muzungo (white man) that comes here for tourism. For me, (hand signs are essential) I see a country of great opportunity. But I see a people who are not happy in themselves; who are not content. Comprend?” I tell him that if it’s God’s will, He will provide for Evode to travel. “But you don’t have the means. So why don’t you stop living in two places at once? Be happy in Rwanda and make a contribution.” He didn’t understand this so I explained further in broken English.
Evode Chat
“You want to leave Rwanda?” Yes
“But you cant go to South Africa?” Yes
I’m making progress…
“So be happy in Rwanda”… silence… okay, obviously he is insisting that I don’t understand the struggle he faces everyday.
“My friend, your country has been through a lot of problems. 15 years ago it was terrible. But you have so much reason to be proud of Rwanda. It was the fastest growing economy this year. Your country, okay, joined the Commonwealth 2 weeks ago. It’s the easiest country to open a business in Africa (I’m sure I read that somewhere!!). I tell you, there will be a lot of monies coming to your country soon. The Europe, America, China, Japan; they will help to develop.” Saying that made me rethink me approach and I immediately regretted saying it. I turn to a cut-out of an instant coffee label I pasted in my diary. It reads as follows:
‘Africa needs trade, not aid, to fight poverty. the African-owned company, Good African Coffee, believes ‘trade not aid’ is the only viable and sustainable strategy for African economic and social development. We have seen that aid handouts stifle creativity and lead to a crippling dependency that is neither beneficial nor sustainable.” We read this together. We agree that Africans need to be strong and not timid. We talk about why the children in Rwanda are almost defaulted to say, ‘Muzungo, gimme your money.’ and what a bad thing this is; that its truly crippling. He says in conclusion, ‘Even the older men will rather ask than work hard. This needs to change cause its not good’. I wish him well and we both agree that He will lead us and guide us.
My question is: A case like this; a crippling poverty mindset, or are the scars of civil strive so deep it’s crippling?
written by  afrikawasbeer on December 16, 2009 from Kibuye, Rwanda

Lake Mutanga
Kisoro, Uganda
We went for a small hike today. It was nice
Follow the Leader
written by  afrikawasbeer on December 11, 2009 from Kisoro, Uganda

Rwanda Genocide Tour
Kigali, Rwanda
16th Dec, 9:33 | I’m sitting here in the pews of a church close to Homé Saint Jean. This was the site of one of the most gruesome massacres in Rwanda. The Tutsi were about 20% of the population in this Western District of Rwanda. It is estimated that about 9 out of 10 were slaughtered by the Hutu militia called the Interahamwe, an attempt to cleanse the ethnicity of these ‘cockroaches’ (as they were called).
Right now, three sparrows are doing barrel rolls between the church pillars. Yellow, green, red and pink lightbeams are fused in a luminous light tapestry. Turtledoves cooh in the trees outside. Christ the Messiah's passion is depicted in a series of events above the typical African tabernacle; adorned with ill-matching fabrics and carpets. Outside the moss green Lake Kivu is nested in luscious green cultured lands, rising starkly from the crater lake. A small boy just walked in, froze, mumbled something like 'muzungo ...' and turned on his heels; the organ blearing in the background.
Its hard to imagine that 15 years ago blood flowed in the rivers... like rivers... so much blood... so many dead... God have mercy on us because we do not know what we do...
12:07 | So the 1h15min motorbike ride comes to a halt in the village of Bisesero.
'URWIBUTSO RWA JENOSIDE
YAKOREWE ABATUTSI - MU W 1994'
reads the sign as I walk in the rain to the purple archway. I meet a young girl who manage to say that she will take me to the memorial (I struggle with language gap big time). We walk down to the corregated iron house where she unlocks the wooden door. It creeks open. And there lies, on long tables, hundreds of skulls and femur bones. I cant move. One step forward; look to the right. skulls with bullet holes, machete slashes and other obscure death signs. Two steps forward. I cant do this. How do you process this? I cried. But soon stopped. How does tears change the sight in front of you? These skulls were living people 15 years ago. A skull in a musuem with scientific research is one thing. But this is quite something different. The girl tells me that 15 - 16,000 people were killed here. I read that the Tutsi who fled here fought off the Hutus with basic farming implements and did so successfully. Until the Interahamwe launched a full on assualt on this hilltop country on 16 May '94. Some remain to tell the story; one boy lived among rotting corpses for 40-odd days.
I read a quote by Bill Clinton which read along the lines of, 'It didn't happen under my administration. It happened under me.' A sense of complacency and the bitter aftertaste. It makes me wonder why I am so complacent in these modern times. Yes, all is nice in the modern world and whatever; but what about the injustices of human trafficing, marginalising the poor, racism, etc etc. I dont have answers, just a desire to see the change (or rather become the change I want to see)
18th Dec, 16:05 | Today I went to visit the Kigali Genocide Memorial. It was very informative and I learned about the evils of the Colonialist who played tribes off against one another. I am also reading a very good book called 'Citizen and Subject' dealing on the issue of integrating Africans into their own land after colonisation. All these things just make me realise that we cant go round telling people what to do. we need to facilitate growth, not impose it. So it brings the end of a heavy few days asking some though questions. May Rwanda truly recover from this devasting war.
written by  afrikawasbeer on December 17, 2009 from Kigali, Rwanda

finish en klaar
Entebbe, Uganda
I had to cut my trip short by a few weeks. I wish I could have finished the trip with the boys but now its time to say goodbye. i guess that Neill's emails will now replace this blog. ciao amigos
written by  afrikawasbeer on December 21, 2009 from Entebbe, Uganda