shoshtrvls
Welcome to my travels. On this site you'll find recent trips and some very old trips. You'll note that for some trips I wrote very detailed reports (at least in the beginning), for others, I...

Day 1
Honolulu, United States
The trip beings. Our plane leaves LAX at 9:45 but Barbara doesn't arrive until minutes before take-off. We arrive safely in Honolulu where we are met by Norm, Barbara's mother's boyfriend. He takes to the condominium where we are staying -- its called the Governor Cleghorn and, while not particularly nice, it is within two blocks of Waikiki Beach. So, after dropping off our bags, we head for the beach for an hour. Waikiki is a real trip -- thin, tanned bodies checking out all the other thin, tanned bodies. Definitely not my kind of place. Anyway, after an hour or so, we went back to the condo, showered and changed, and walked to the Waikiki Shell.
It was opening night for the season and Uncle Martin had a table reserved right up front. The evening started with wine and hobnobbing with the creme de la creme of Honolulu society. Then came a wonderful catered dinner, Hollywood Bowl style. The music was "big band" by the Del Courtney Orchestra. It was quite enjoyable -- a nice way to start the trip (although I might have drunk a bit too much wine). Uncle Martin drove us home and we made arrangements for dinner the following evening.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 1, 1987 from Honolulu, United States
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)

Day 1
Sydney, Australia
Arrived in Sydney around 6:00 a.m., but just barely. Apparently, there had been a fire in the airport the night before and the airport had been evacuated and closed. Of course, it was closed anyway. Seems there's a nighttime curfew and planes can't land before 5 a.m. In fact, we had to take off late from Los Angeles because the tailwinds were so strong they were afraid we might land too early. Had an hour layover in Sydney and then flew on to Melbourne.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 2, 1990 from Sydney, Australia
from the travel blog: Australia (1990)

Day 1
Istanbul, Turkey
Well, it took me and Mark 23 hours to get to Istanbul; we left Philly at 1 p.m. on Saturday and arrived at our hotel at 7 p.m. Turkish time on Sunday. Fortunately, the trip was not as unpleasant as it might have been, despite the many long layovers and out-of-the-way stop-overs (someone at Olympic Airlines seems to think that Thessoloniki is on the way to Istanbul, which made what should have been a brief, 1 hour hop from Athens to Istanbul more like 4 hours). Although the plane was full, Mark and I were able to get two aisle seats across from one another and we used the time to plan the trip and to sleep.
Mark selected our hotel in Istanbul, the Ceragan Palace, which is literally a palace--a converted Ottoman palace just north of central Istanbul. It is about as plush as hotels get. There is a huge UN conference going on (Habitat II, I think), and it appears that all relevant dignitary types are staying here -- there is a metal detector at the entrance and armed guards all around the place. However, once passing through the front doors, all is marble, fountains, and quiet.
Our room, like nearly all of the rooms in the hotel, looks out over the blue Bosphorus and over to Asia. But as tempting as lounging on the patio was, after showering and changing, Mark and I decided that a real, non-airline meal was in order. At the suggestion of the concierge, we walked north along the Bosphorus to a small neighborhood called Otokoy for dinner. We selected a small open-air restaurant on the water and had a terrific dinner of sea bass. Afterwards, we walked around the neighborhood a bit--definitely an "in" spot for 20-somethings looking to see and be seen. The narrow streets were crowded with cafes, bars, food stalls, and peddlers of all kinds. We took it all in until the sound of the muezzins calling the faithful to evening prayers, a sound which would become a frequent backdrop on this trip, signaled us that it was time to head back to the hotel.
For me, the evening ended sitting on a stone bench behind the hotel (actually in front of the palace, as the original main entrance faces the water), with a huge full moon reflecting off the narrow strip of sea, watching the ferries criss-cross the strait, listening to the faint sounds of very good jazz coming from the hotel's piano bar, and delighting in the fact that I was finally on vacation.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 2, 1996 from Istanbul, Turkey
from the travel blog: Turkey and Greece (1996)

Days 1 - 2
Cape Town, South Africa
We left Philadelphia on August 23 and arrived in Cape Town on the 24th.
We started our trip by walking in and around the shops in Capetown and then took a cable car up to the top of Table Mountain.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 24, 2004 from Cape Town, South Africa
from the travel blog: South Africa, Zimbabwe and Zambia (2004)

New Delhi, India
We arrived in New Delhi quite late last night and thus didn't sleep much overnight, although the hotel was lovely. We checked out around 8:30 a.m. and arrived at the airport quite early -- lots of time to kill and nothing of interest a the airport. Ellery is essentially on a hunger strike, refusing to eat anything unfamiliar.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 21, 2006 from New Delhi, India
from the travel blog: Bhutan and India (2006)

Malaga, Spain
Arrived in Malaga and am currently waiting for the bus to Algeciras. Almost missed the trip altogether ... ticket from LA to NY was for Friday a.m., not Saturday! And, the Saturday flight was booked. Fortunately, the ticket clerk took pity on me and found me a seat -- an aisle even! (Although in the back -- no reclining, screaming kids, and all out of food).
Barely made the connecting flight to Madrid -- getting from one JFK terminal to another could take all day. Got stuck in a middle seat but generally the flight was OK.
Caught an earlier plane to Malaga -- absolutely empty and I still had to check my bag. But the timing was perfect as I need wait less than 1-1/2 hours for the bus to Algeciras (no train). Hope I can catch a ferry to Tangier today, as spending the night in Algeciras does not sound too appealing.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 19, 1991 from Malaga, Spain
from the travel blog: Morocco (1991)

Paris, France
Arrived in Paris to discovery what an extraordinarily spoiled traveler I've become. Business class was decidedly less comfortable than I had anticipated, possibly owing in part to being in the smoking section. The amenities bag was less equipped and, horrors of horrors, I couldn't get a confirmed seat assignment for the Apris-Athens leg. As a result, I virtually demanded access to a lounge area away from the hoi palloi -- possibly a mistake given its rather stuffy and humid air. What has happened to the days when I was satisfied with a coach ticket anywhere, a clean room and a bathroom down the hall? This is no doubt the "growing old" I was warned about and to which I was sure I would never succumb.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 1, 1993 from Paris, France
from the travel blog: Greece (1993)

Madrid, Spain
written by  shoshtrvls on April 1, 1995 from Madrid, Spain
from the travel blog: Portugal (1995)

Madrid, Spain
Doing our part to recover from 9/11, we set off.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 27, 2001 from Madrid, Spain
from the travel blog: Spain (2001)

Rome, Italy
Arrival.
written by  shoshtrvls on February 15, 2002 from Rome, Italy
from the travel blog: Italy (2002)

Day 1 - 2
Buenos Aires, Argentina
I left Los Angeles on February 29 and spent an interminable time traveling.
First flight was LA to Orlando to Miami. My love of flying is wearing thing and upgrades have spoiled me.
But then, things did get better. Miami to Buenos Aires was overbooked, and I was offered $750.00 in flight credits, an upgraded seat and a mere 5 hour delay (due to layovers in Rio and Montevideo). So, to Rio in the upper cabin consisted of me, Art -- an employee of ARCO working in Rio, and Kim Valencia, a tour director. In other words, much leg room and attention. (Rio was overcast when we landed and it was hard to tell the terrain; Montevideo was rather flat). The second leg was a bit more crowded, while the plane from Uruguay to Buenos Aires was nearly empty.
Upon arrival, Kim and I tracked down our luggage and took a cab into town. Dropper her off at her hotel, with plans to connect up on my return and maybe go to Iguazu together.
Upon arrival at the Plaza Hotel, I showered and changed. Eventually my roommate Carole returned from the afternoon tour -- which I had missed due to my late arrival. Carole is pretty much what I expected. 40-50, bright, talkative and with a very similar "game plan" as I (up early, journal writing at night, etc.). She advised me that I was one of the youngest on the trip (something Kim had expected).
At 7 it was cocktails and dinner. Truly an interesting group but not what I expected. Except for a few "young 'uns" everyone must be over 60. It looks like an 'SC alumni function (and indeed, there is a large group from Miami University in Ohio).
At dinner, I sat with David, our tour leader, a couple from Pasadena (he of the JPL, she of hospital volunteer work), a lunguist from Pleasanton (Marsha, fortunately heavy like me [I'm not alone> and maybe 15 years older but she doesn't look it), a woman named Dolly who never spoke, and a former minister and travel agency owner. We talked about our travels, the Rose Parade, fuzzy logic, new math, physics, everything. So many educated people in one place!
I walked off dinner down the Calle Florida, a pedestrian street lined with shops, from Christian Dior to discount electronics. While everything was closed, strollers abounded. Some of hte buildings had magnificent edifices -- to be photographed on my return. Before bed, a theology discussion with Carole. It's going to be a mentally challenging trip!
written by  shoshtrvls on March 1, 1992 from Buenos Aires, Argentina
from the travel blog: Antarctica and South America (1992)

Paris, France
We arrived in Paris and shortly after checking into our little hotel, we started with the most important visit of all, to the Eiffel Tower.
Ellery sat right down on the stairs behind the Trocadero and made her first sketch of the trip, a very good rendering of the Tower.
After viewing the city from the top of the Eiffel Tower, we took a sunset trip on the Bateaux Parisiens to look for the bridge from which Madeline fell. Pretty sure she had spotted it, Ellery snapped a picture.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 19, 2003 from Paris, France
from the travel blog: France, Belgium and London (2003)

Anchorage, United States
Arrival in Anchorage and dinner with Nan, her son and her husband.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 15, 2005 from Anchorage, United States
from the travel blog: Alaska (2005)

Orlando, United States
We flew to Orlando and were bussed, as promised, to the ship.
written by  shoshtrvls on February 23, 2008 from Orlando, United States
from the travel blog: Western Caribbean (2008)

UK
London, United Kingdom
London
written by  shoshtrvls on August 8, 1980 from London, United Kingdom
from the travel blog: Europe (1980)

Lima, Peru
Arrived in Lima. Not a favorite city. Stayed at the Hostal Beech.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 11, 1989 from Lima, Peru
from the travel blog: Peru (1989)

Denmark
Copenhagen, Denmark
Copenhagen
written by  shoshtrvls on July 17, 1984 from Copenhagen, Denmark
from the travel blog: France, Austria and Russia (1984)

Day 1 - Where's the Pool?
Jerusalem, Israel, West Bank
We have arrived in Jerusalem. Finally. After checking into the hotel, we made our way down to the pool, where we spent the balance of the day until dinner and bed.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 18, 2008 from Jerusalem, Israel, West Bank
from the travel blog: Israel, Jordan and Egypt (2008)

It's Not The Destination
San Ignacio, Belize
It's the journey. Or so they say.
We started out at the crack of dawn, or rather, before the crack of dawn, to catch our 5:30 flight to Houston. So far, so good ... until we get to Houston and learn that our flight to Belize has been canceled. Rather than booking us on an earlier flight, we were rebooked on a much later flight. Attempts to get on the earlier flight failed due to the fact that our luggage couldn't travel on the later flight without us (9/11 regs) and so we spent a lengthy 6+ hours in the Houston airport, hanging in the Continental President's club.
And, of course, the later flight was also delayed a good hour, so by the time we arrived in Belize, most of our plans were shot. After spending some time convincing Immigration that I *couldn't* have brought a letter from Ellery's father allowing her to travel without him because she had no father (he needed to go up 2 levels of the command chain with her birth certificate to authorize our entry into the country), and then listening to him tell me how I had to teach her about Jesus Christ (I guess the star of David around my neck was either invisible or seen as an invitation), we finally got out of the airport and found William, as expected, with a big welcoming smile (and sign).
The zoo was out because it was so late, so instead we stopped at a little place called "Old Belize" for dinner -- a man-made lagoon and a nice little restaurant. The rest of the drive was lovely; William was great entertainment and a wealth of local information about the Mennonite, the local population, and all that there might be to do.
We finally got to Chaa Creek around 8 p.m., and so tired we immediately fell asleep in our rustic cabin overlooking the river.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 22, 2009 from San Ignacio, Belize
from the travel blog: Belize, Guatemala and Honduras (2009)

Day 1 -- Arrival
Ortobanda, Netherlands Antilles
Afternoon arrival, hanging around the hotel (Kura Hulanda)
written by on August 30, 2010 from Ortobanda, Netherlands Antilles
from the travel blog: Curacao (2010)

Manchester, United Kingdom
Arrived in the UK early in the morning, with just enough time to transit to our flight to Dublin.
written by on November 25, 2010 from Manchester, United Kingdom
from the travel blog: Dublin (2010)

Getting Going
Philadelphia, United States
I hoped it wasn’t an omen. The first car Hertz gave me had no gas – not a drop. I barely made it around the block and back to the counter. The second car they gave me had a huge flashing “SERVICE” light going off on the dashboard. But the third time was the charm; the red Chevy Matrix definitely fit the bill – big, comfortable, and with an iPod adaptor. Things were looking up.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 11, 2011 from Philadelphia, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)

Day 1 -- Yangon in a Day
Yangon, Myanmar (Burma)
From Singapore, it was another three hour flight to Yangon. By this time Ellery and I were definitely traveled out, but the time went quickly as Ellery fell fast asleep and I chatted with a very nice auditor from Singapore
Arrival in Yangon was very smooth, although everything is still done by hand, so it isn't quick. Despite dire warnings I was able to cash my not-new, $20 bills, although it seemed to take forever and there was a ton of paperwork involved. I suspect most people change money on the black market not to get a better rate, but instead to save time
TinTin (our guide, not the Belgian dog) was there just as promised with the driver. It took roughly 1/2 hour to get to the hotel, where Ellery and I relaxed for a bit and changed out of our less-than-fresh clothing.
Then it was off to a quick few hours sight-seeing, which appears to be all the time you really need in Yangon. The main attraction is the Shwedagon Pagoda, really a large complex of probably 40 buildings and hundreds of Buddhas all surrounding a giant gold pagoda -- one so big that you can see it from the airplane on your way in. Apparently there are incredible jewels at the top, but you cant see them. Surrounding the pagoda, in particular, are seven Buddhas, one for each day of the week. Below each of these seven Buddhas is the animal symbol for that day. And what one does is dowse with water the buddha and the symbol for the day of the week you were born in prayer to Buddha; if you have s lucky number, that's how many times you pour the water. So, we visited Wednesday's shrine, with its elephant, for my birthday, and Ellery's tiger Monday. Anyway, the whole complex is lots of gold and mirrors, and even some neon disco lights around some of the Buddhas (to show enlightenment) giving the whole place a shimmer. Oh, and since it was Aung San Suu Kyi's birthday, there were many people at the shrine praying for her good health.
From there we drove around the city center for a bit. Yangon is pretty much what one would expect - decaying buildings of two main styles - British Colonial and cinder block and cement. Even the few new buildings look old. The cars as well are mostly from the seventies - and most interesting, they have cars with steering wheel on both the left and the right; it seems that whatever could be imported was. (Streets are driving on the right). In front of the buildings are street stalls offering all kinds of food and goods. Most popular are the tea stalls, with plastic chairs arranged along the sides of the walkway. Food ranges from incredible fruits, corn on the cob, fried potatoes, noodle dishes and meat satay.
Like most countries in the developing world, there's lots of traffic, and packed buses and trucks with people hanging out the sides and the back, but there are some differences. No tuk-tuks, no motorbikes, only a few pedal bikes, and no honking. Yes, honking is banned here except for emergencies - in Thailand and India, it's the opposite. So, it's interesting to walk around and not hear the cacophony of car horns.
As for the people, almost all - men and women - wear longhi. Very few people in pants of any kind and what jeans they do have appear to be of the slim, nearly legging style. And everyone wears flip flops; very few covered toes. On their faces, most girls and women wear a tan paste in big circles on their cheeks, made from tree bark. I'm told it is a good sunblock and skin softener, but I think I'll pass.
Back to the sightseeing. Eventually we stopped at a tea house for something to eat and drink. Food here is like a dim sum restaurant - different small plates of soft chewy bao, fried dumplings and pot stickers and the like. Tea is drank heavily laden with cream and sugar, making it pretty unrecognizable as green tea. Afterward, as Ellery was falling asleep in the car and didn't feel well, we dropped her off at the hotel before continuing on to the HUGE reclining Buddha at Kyaukhtatgyi Pagoda. 70 meters long and of recent vintage, this thing was the biggest Buddha I've seen. The feet alone were two or three people tall. Really quite stunning.
From there it was on to one of the two lake parks in the city, Kandawgyi Park, surrounded by a wooden footpath, in the middle sits a replica of the old royal barge which had been destroyed in WWII. Evidently it is a restaurant inside, but the outside glimmers and it's reflection in the lake is beautiful.
Then it was a walk through the city center, passing all of the embassies and government buildings, and the Strand hotel, all left over from British colonial rule. Nothing spectacular; the street scene was much more interesting. We also stopped to make over a dozen copies of our passports and visas on a very old copier; I'm told we will need to give these to government officials along the way.
Finally we returned back to the hotel for some much needed sleep before our 6 am flight (eek!) to Bagan.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 19, 2012 from Yangon, Myanmar (Burma)
from the travel blog: Southeast Asia (2012)

Puerto Morelos, Mexico
Arrival; hanging at the resort.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 1, 2012 from Puerto Morelos, Mexico
from the travel blog: Riviera Maya (2012)

Days 1 and 2
Zagreb, Croatia
So, we were all set at the airport, boarding passes at the ready, until the rains came. Lots of it. pouring rain.
The net result was that our flight to Frankfort was delayed by four hours. Which of course meant no hope for making our connection to Zagreb. (It did, however, allow me to confirm to the police that the alarm that went off was storm-related and not thief related, and to have Lee check things out ANC walk Pepper since Lisa was stuck in rain-created traffic). Undaunted, and with a few easily-placed phone calls (Amex was worthless, Lufthansa was great) was able to snag 2 of the last 4 seats on a later flight. Side benefit - the connection was so tight that we weren't forced to spend any extra time in the hellhole that is the Frankfort Airport transit area.
And really, being late didn't make a whole lot of difference. As we had been forewarned, Zagreb has little to offer in the way of interesting or unique experiences. The hotel is fine, right on the central square, which looks pretty much like every other European central square.
We walked around the old part of town discovering, well, not much. Except the Museum of Broken Relationships, Really, an excellent place where people send mementos of past relationships. Funny, touching, tragic. Well worth the $5 Entrance fee. Really, how awesome is that? So, maybe it is fitting that this museum is surrounded by Nikola Tesla homages everywhere. As Els asked, "So, what, is he like the only Croatian who's famous?" Um, maybe.
Dinner was at a nice little Italian place near the hotel, with a walk and ice cream after.
And now bed.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 29, 2013 from Zagreb, Croatia
from the travel blog: Croatia, Slovenia and Bosnia Herzegovina (2013)

Day 1 - Museums, Here We Come
Amsterdam, Netherlands
Arrival right on time, then navigated the train and the trolly to get to our hotel. A quick shower and bag drop off, and we were on our way. Rijksmuseum -- check. Stedelijk Museum of Modern Art -- check. Wandering around -- check. And then stumbled onto and into a wonderful little restaurant near the hotel -- De 3 Vrienden. Ended the day with a walk to Leidseplein.
written by  shoshtrvls on November 22, 2012 from Amsterdam, Netherlands
from the travel blog: Art in Amsterdam (2012)

Day 1 - Blue Lagoon
Reykjavik, Iceland
Left Newark last night, arrived early this morning (very early) and eventually made our way by shuttle bus to the Blue Lagoon. Warm, blue water. Rest. Relaxation.
We had hoped to go searching for the Northern Lights tonight, but it was too cloudy, so I took a walk around town and then hopped into bed and all was good.
written by  shoshtrvls on November 29, 2013 from Reykjavik, Iceland
from the travel blog: Iceland (2013)

Day 1 and Lots To See and Do
Berlin, Germany
Alexanderplatz, Berliner Weihnachtszeit, TV Tower (but only the base), Brandenburg Gate, Memorial to the Murdered Jews, Potsdamer Platz
written by  shoshtrvls on November 27, 2014 from Berlin, Germany
from the travel blog: Berlin (2014)

Hamilton, Bermuda
We arrived to a cool, cloudy, rainy and very windy place. Fortunately, the hotel is really nice, which is good, because outside is not really an option. Dinner was a Thanksgiving buffet at the hotel.
written by  shoshtrvls on November 26, 2015 from Hamilton, Bermuda
from the travel blog: Bermuda (2015)

Day 1 -- In Which I Learn About Czech Police Procedures
Prague, Czech Republic
Hotel. Phone and credit cards stolen. Police station. Beer at Lokal. Change hotel. Walk at night. Get lost. Pasta restaurant in basement.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 23, 2015 from Prague, Czech Republic
from the travel blog: Central Europe (2015)

Day 1 - Rome (Sunday)
Rome, Italy
Arrival; saw the Pope at the Vatican; walked around the Coliseum, Forum and various Ruins
written by  shoshtrvls on June 19, 2016 from Rome, Italy
from the travel blog: Italy (2016)

Day 1 - Wandering Around
Quito, Ecuador
Exploring Quito at night
written by  shoshtrvls on November 23, 2016 from Quito, Ecuador
from the travel blog: Ecuador (2016)

Havana, Cuba
Check in at Habana Libre Hotel in the neighborhood of El Vedado. Dinner will be served at 7PM at paladar "Cañonazo". Canon blast ceremony at 9PM.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 9, 2017 from Havana, Cuba
from the travel blog: Cuba (2017)

Day 1 - Helsinki the First Time
Helsinki, Finland
Arrival in Helsinki in the late afternoon. Some wandering around near the Ferry docks. Had a nice fish dinner at Restaurant Meri Makasiini. Since it was Sunday, very little was open.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 20, 2017 from Helsinki, Finland
from the travel blog: Northern European Captials (2017)

Medellin, Colombia
El Poblado, Lleras Park & Parque El Poblado
written by  shoshtrvls on December 21, 2017 from Medellin, Colombia
from the travel blog: Medellin (2017)

Day 1 - Arrival
Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia
Harbor, Floating Mosque, Night Market
From Intrepid:
Selamat Datang! Welcome to Malaysia. An arrival airport transfer is included. Please advise your flight details at time of booking or 14 days prior to departure so as we can book this transfer for you. Your adventure begins with a Welcome Meeting at 6pm, which you can find details about at the hotel’s reception. If you have any free time beforehand, perhaps explore this intriguing city that was born between the Borneo jungle and the South China Sea. Modern-day 'KK' is a vibrant modern Metropolis, having recovered from World War II bombings. T
written by  shoshtrvls on August 18, 2018 from Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia
from the travel blog: Borneo and South Korea (2018)

Day 1 - To San Miguel
San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
Teotihuacan, San Miguel de Allende
written by  shoshtrvls on December 26, 2018 from San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
from the travel blog: Central Mexico (2018 - 2019)

San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
Coyote Canyon ride, Fabrica La Aurora and other galleries
written by  shoshtrvls on December 27, 2018 from San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
from the travel blog: Central Mexico (2018 - 2019)

Puerto Morelos, Mexico
Snorkeling, hanging.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 4, 2012 from Puerto Morelos, Mexico
from the travel blog: Riviera Maya (2012)

Day 2 - Mt. Kinabalu
Ranau, Malaysia
Dusun Village, Mt. Kinabalu National Park
From Intrepid:
Leaving Kota Kinabalu behind, you'll head for the hills and travel towards the unspoiled Wilderness of the World Heritage-listed Mt Kinabalu National Park (approximately 3 hours). You will stop off en route at a local home at Dusun Village. Sample the local foods with a home cooked lunch to get some insight into what it’s like to live in a rural village. Later you can stretch your legs and soak up the mountain scenery with a stroll through Mt Kinabalu National Park. There are many walking trails from which you can bird watch. The Mountain Botanic Garden is an excellent showcase of the diverse plant life on the mountain, as flora from all over the park has been replanted here. Late in the afternoon you travel by private bus to Sabah Tea Plantation (approximately 30 mins). Tonight you will stay in the grounds of a lush tea garden.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 19, 2018 from Ranau, Malaysia
from the travel blog: Borneo and South Korea (2018)

Medellin, Colombia
Plaza Botero, Museum of Antioquia, Centro and San Domingo, Park Arvi
written by  shoshtrvls on December 22, 2017 from Medellin, Colombia
from the travel blog: Medellin (2017)

Day 2 -- Tallinn
Tallinn, Estonia
Hopped on the Ferry for the short trip to Tallinn, where we mostly wandered around the Old Town. Some interesting sights; very medieval as expected. Surprisingly, despite how touristy it was, there were some nice artists shops and galleries, although with a few good street musicians.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 21, 2017 from Tallinn, Estonia
from the travel blog: Northern European Captials (2017)

Day 2 - Exploring Quito
Quito, Ecuador
Visiting churches, public Parks and squares, El Panecillo
written by  shoshtrvls on November 24, 2016 from Quito, Ecuador
from the travel blog: Ecuador (2016)

Day 2 - Rome (Monday)
Rome, Italy
We hit the major sights, including the Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, etc.
Also the Jewish Ghetto
written by  shoshtrvls on June 20, 2016 from Rome, Italy
from the travel blog: Italy (2016)

Day 2 -- In Which I Learn about Amex Travelers Services
Prague, Czech Republic
Amex; nice people. Temp. card. Western Union. Back in business. Morning walking tour -- churches, Jewish quarter. lunch. Sleep. Walked to River and across bridge. Old Town square and new town square.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 24, 2015 from Prague, Czech Republic
from the travel blog: Central Europe (2015)

Hamilton, Bermuda
Oh, we started with such high hopes. First, a nature walk along Horseshoe Bay, and some photography along with it. Then a Ferry to Hamilton which was, um, disappointing. However, the art at City Hall was quite nice, and the bus back gave us a good look at the Island.
written by  shoshtrvls on November 27, 2015 from Hamilton, Bermuda
from the travel blog: Bermuda (2015)

Day 2 --The Cold War in the Cold
Berlin, Germany
Checkpoint Charlie, Black Box Kalter Kreig, Mauer Museum, Berlin Wall, Jewish Museum, Dali Museum, Gendarmenmarkt
written by  shoshtrvls on November 28, 2014 from Berlin, Germany
from the travel blog: Berlin (2014)

Day 2 -- Horses! Light!
Reykjavik, Iceland
Today was horse day. Two rides -- the first, in the morning, was with a large group and mostly walking but beautiful (albeit cold and rainy) weather. The afternoon was just Els, me and a guide and was fabulous. Lots of trotting, some cantering and even a little bit of galloping. Up and down hills, around a lake; beautiful scenery. One of the best rides I've had.
This evening we did get out to search for the Northern Lights and eventually found them. The first stop was quite disappointing -- really just grey swirls in the sky -- but on the way back into town, the bus pulled off into a parking lot, the guide rushed us all outside and then, there they were, beautiful blue and green swirls of light in the sky. I'm not sure I'd make a trip just for the lights, but they were definitely worth seeing.
written by  shoshtrvls on November 30, 2013 from Reykjavik, Iceland
from the travel blog: Iceland (2013)

Day 2 -- Old Friends
Amsterdam, Netherlands
Lots of walking around this morning -- the flower market, rembrantsplein and eventually the Hermitage, where the Van Gogh Museum collection is being housed while the museum is renovated. Then, a meet-up with Brad Gallop, an old high school and law school friend, for lunch and a stroll around the Red Light District, Dam Square and Newmarket. Ended the night with dinner at Braque and dessert at De 3 Vrienden.
written by  shoshtrvls on November 23, 2012 from Amsterdam, Netherlands
from the travel blog: Art in Amsterdam (2012)

Ljubljana, Slovenia
his is not Disneyland after closing. It is Ljubljana, Slovenia after they've rolled up the sidewalks, one of the most delightful European towns I've been to - despite the fact that it is overrun with tourists. Because it doesn't feel at all like a tourist town.
Today began with a quick trip to the farmers market in Zagreb. Lots of beautiful looking produce, and crappy carved shit. As I said, it was a quick trip.
At 9 am, we were in our car and on our way to Slovenia. The border was probably less than 30 minutes away, but it was one of those crossings where you immediately knew you were in a different country (ironic, in a way, since until a decade ago, these weren't separate countries). The landscape was simply different - more green, a bit more hilly, and more dotted with small villages ("Ellery, should we stop at that castle?" "It's not in the guidebook, so no."). And more western European in some undefined way.
We arrived in Ljubljana around 11, dropped the bags off at the hotel, and wandered for the next 5 hours. Basically, we walked up and down the quaint main street and across the canal several times, stopping for coffee, for ice cream, for lunch, and the many outdoor cafes. About the only "sights"we saw were the town hall and the castle, neither of which really merited the detour from strolling.
After a late afternoon nap, we strolled some more, ending the evening eating cheese and drinking carpaccio while listening to an excellent street musician. No deep meanings here, but really a perfect vacation day.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 30, 2013 from Ljubljana, Slovenia
from the travel blog: Croatia, Slovenia and Bosnia Herzegovina (2013)

Day 2 -- Discovering Bagan
Bagan, Myanmar (Burma)
TinTin and our driver were waiting for us at the ungodly hour of 4:45 am as we set off for the airport. As it was with Nelson Mandela in South Africa, all neighborhoods here are defined by their relationship to Aing San Kuu Kyi - this is the street where her house is, this is where her political party office is, etc. So, we drove by her house in the dark, and then on to the airport.
The breakfast the hotel packed, while thoughtful, was less than enticing. Some hard rolls and an old banana. So once at the airport we dined on dim sum, and it was good. I like the Burmese tradition of real food for breakfast. And now we are sitting in the airport, watching it fill up with an odd assortment of Asian businessmen, wealthy Brit tourists following their guides everywhere, and the usual assortment of Western backpackers. Not sure where we fit in; we have advanced arrangements wherever we go, but this isn't an organized tour, except as organized by me. And at this point in my life, this feels about right. I would not go back to the hostels and wandering the streets searching for the bus terminal, but I also am not ready to be spoon-fed all my experiences.
---
Ok, all I can say is ... Amazing. I don't even know where to begin, and the day is only half over. Flying into Bagan you get your first taste of what is to come - a wide river with thousands of ancient temples all over the landscape. So many, in fact, that at first you can't even be sure what they are.
Our guide Po met us at the airport, and took us to our hotel. Our hotel, the Aureum Palace and Resort, is more than top notch. It is a compound of houses tucked among the 3000 temples and stupas in Bagan. Our house (yes, we have our own house) in two stories of lavishness, with three balconies looking out over the temples. It is nearly the size of our house in Philly. And decorated much nicer. It was painful to have to leave it only minutes after arriving, but we did. There's so much to see here.
We spent the morning visiting several temples and stupas, starting with the large Shwezigon Pagoda. Like the one in Yangon, it is a large stupa in the center, surrounded by many smaller buildings and plenty of Buddhas. Next was Gubyaukgyi Temple, with it's walls covered in beautiful miniature paintings of the life of Buddha. Several more temples and pagodas followed, including htilominlo and khayminka, ending with Ananda, which has four huge Buddhas and hundreds of smaller ones in the niches of the walls. These temples range in age, built between the 10th and 13th centuries, in varying stages of both decay and restoration. Po took great pains to describe everything to us, and I mean everything. With his heavy accent, it was tiring, but very worthwhile.
A few items of note - almost every temple and stupa is surrounded by market stalls, with hawkers calling your attention to everything from postcards to quite beautiful lacquerware. It's just enough to be interesting without being annoying.
Roads here are traveled by a variety of vehicles. Cars, buses, motorbikes, pedal bikes, ox carts and horse-drawn carriages all compete for space. But there's no traffic and, just as in Yangon, no honking. And when the wind blows, as it does often, the sweet smell of all the blooming flowers envelops you.
Eventually, we settled for a traditional lunch of Burmese food, most of which I couldn't even describe, at an outdoor restaurant in what appeared to be the center area of the temple site, before heading back to the hotel to rest.
Upon arriving at our hotel and before returning to the luxury of our house, we visited the 12 story tower on the hotel grounds. It is the tallest building in Bagan, and it's viewing deck provides incredible 360 degree views of Bagan and it's temples. Truly awe-inspiring.
After a few hours rest at the hotel, it was back to sightseeing, starting with the obligatory "factory tour" - here of lacquerware. This one was impressive however, and the works was beautiful. More temples followed- Seinnyerneijima, Manuha, Thatbyinnyu - then a horse cart ride among the temples and, more interestingly, one of the small villages in the valley. Daily life here was boys playing soccer, women cooking, oxen resting. The homes were very much like the ones I remember from northern Thailand, made of woven bark and raised on stilts.
The final stop was Shwesandon Temple, where we and about 20 other travelers climbed to the top to view what turned out to be a somewhat disappointing sunset. Still, the views were magnificent and it was well worth the climb. But maybe not the decent, as Ellery spilled her entire bag, and money rained down the side of the temple walls. It was really a scene out of a movie; fortunately, people kindly collected it all and returned it to us. And thus, Ellery will not longer be holding any money.
We returned to the hotel for long, glorious foot massages and a dinner of, as Ellery called it, "real food" before collapsing into bed.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 20, 2012 from Bagan, Myanmar (Burma)
from the travel blog: Southeast Asia (2012)

Getting Going - Part II
Lake Harmony, United States
At midnight, Ellery and I took our places just past security and waited for Jordan to arrive. And waited. The screen said her plane had landed, but there was no Jordan. Evidently, the screen did not say what had actually happened … “the plane is delayed pulling into the gate.” But, eventually, this tiny pixie of a person emerged through the doors. She saw us before we saw her and there she was. Ellery whispered, “no one looks like they do on Facebook, do they?” Jordan did, but I think both Ellery and I were surprised that she was no taller than us. Those height genes that their biological father had – definitely recessive.
Driving home, Jordan kept remarking, “this is so cool!” She eyed Java on Christian as we neared home so Tuesday morning that’s where we headed for breakfast.
As I still hadn’t packed, and had several errands to run, and because I thought the girls should get to know each other without motherly intervention, off they went for a brief intro to Philadelphia’s history, walking to the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall, and the Constitution Center, with a stop back a Rita’s on South Street for the obligatory Philly water ice. (As a vegetarian, cheesesteaks were not on the list for Jordan).
So, it was time to go. After brief introductions between Jordan and Tanya, we headed to the next neighborhood watering hole for lunch – where else but the New Wave. Somehow it was fitting – the Wave was where I ate every Monday when I was pregnant; it was the first place I went to after Ellery was born, it was probably the first place I had taken Ellery as an infant, so now it was Jordan’s turn.
We eventually hit the road around 1:30, at which time Jordan piped up from the back seat, “I’ve never seen mountains. We don’t have them in Florida.” Well, actually, we don’t have them in Eastern Pennsylvania either, notwithstanding the fact that they call the Poconos “mountains.” No worries though – there will be plenty of awe-inspiring mountains on this trip. In any event, we made it to Lake Harmony just after 3. Unfortunately, they were treating the lake so we couldn’t take the boat out. Instead, after a brief tour of our house and the meadow behind, the girls put on their bathing suits, and hopped into the lake, first and then, with a bit of instruction from Ellery, kayaking. Given how little Ellery kayaks, it was an interesting choice of diversions.
After that brief interlude, it was dinner at home (a pizza that we had picked up at New Wave) and then the two of them made the obligatory evening stroll to Hog Heaven for ice cream.
The evening ended with me upstairs reading, while the two of them played monopoly in the living room. There was something very cool about that – as only children, neither probably played many board games. But here they were, doing what siblings do.
It was a very cool first day.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 12, 2011 from Lake Harmony, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)

Lima, Peru
Still in Lima. Still not loving it. Still at the Hostal Beech.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 12, 1989 from Lima, Peru
from the travel blog: Peru (1989)

Cusco, Peru
Finally, a change of scenery. Arrive in Cusco, become friendly with a woman from Vancouver and we agree to hire a guide to take us on the Inca Trail beginning tomorrow. Overnight at the Hotel Suica II.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 13, 1989 from Cusco, Peru
from the travel blog: Peru (1989)

Austria
Vienna, Austria
Vienna
written by  shoshtrvls on July 18, 1984 from Vienna, Austria
from the travel blog: France, Austria and Russia (1984)

Anchorage, United States
Today we started at the Alaska Native Heritage Center, with its wonderful exhibits and talks about the histoory and culture of various tribes native to Alaska.
Ellery had the opportunity to try her hand at several different traditional arts and crafts.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 16, 2005 from Anchorage, United States
from the travel blog: Alaska (2005)

Cape Town, South Africa
Today was a total tour day.
We started by walking around the shopping area in the Harbor at Cape Town, and took the cablecars to the Top of Table Mountain for a nice view of the city and Lion's Head.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 25, 2004 from Cape Town, South Africa
from the travel blog: South Africa, Zimbabwe and Zambia (2004)

Paris, France
The next day started at the Bois de Bologne. Then it was off to the Hotel National des Invalides, looking for wounded soldiers. Fortunately, everyone there seemed healthy.
The next stop was the Rodin Museum. This was one of Ellery's favorite places in Paris, and we spent much time here studying the sculptures. Ellery decided to draw several of them, including The Thinker and one Ellery dubbed "the flying woman."
That afternoon, we were off to the Cimetiere du Pere-Lachaise, seeking the final resting place of the rich and famous. Alas, we could not find Oscar Wilde, despite a long search.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 20, 2003 from Paris, France
from the travel blog: France, Belgium and London (2003)

Ushuaia, Argentina
We were up quite early for breakfast and the flight to Ushuaia. The drive took us through the northern section of Buenos Aires -- clearly were the elite live.
The national airport is virtually in the center of the city along the river which separates Argentina from Uruguay. It's supposed to be the widest in the world. (is there any river which doesn't have some claim to fame?)
The plane to Ushuaia took about 3 hours, with 1 sto in Trefrew. Upon our arrival, we were taken to a hotel for lunch. The dining room overlooked the center of Ushuaia -- the southernmost city in the world and quite reminiscent of Northern Exposure, but in reverse.
Eventually we made our way to the boat -- bigger than I expected -- an unpacked. The room is small, two beds on either side of a dresser, a bathroom and 3 closets (more, I am told, than in the upgraded cabins).
In the afternoon it was orientation and we were told that the boat would not sale at 4 or 5 as expected, because the local government would not give the ship its petrol. Ah, the joys of third world bureaucracies. It was of course a disappointment but we made the best of it. After the fire drill (described below), we went to the tiny museum at the end of the world -- lots of stuffed birds, some old glass, the usual.
First, however, was the fire drill. Meeting on the "lido" deck (after an announcement by the very wooden Judy Marshall, cruise director), we stood for inspection with our life jackets on -- and this obnoxious, chauvinistic "staff captain" made it his business to check and retie the women's jackets -- but not the men's. Later, the same S.C. berated me for not wearing my name tag.
Just my luck, after cocktails and hors d'ouevres, I was invited to eat with none other than the S.C. What luck. Also at the table were Judy and Larry Boggs from Charlotte, NC, the Chens from Kansas, the Finks, a bizarre mother/son paid (psycho in the making) and the Collins'. I was able to ignore the S.C. by spending the evening talking with Mrs. Chen about raising a Taiwanese son in Topeka. Unlike most Asian woman, Su Chen is very outspoken and I like her a lot.
After dinner, Carole and I took a rather long walk from one end of Ushuaia to the other before turning in for the night.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 2, 1992 from Ushuaia, Argentina
from the travel blog: Antarctica and South America (1992)

written by  shoshtrvls on February 16, 2002 from Rome, Italy

Madrid, Spain
Touring Madrid, often with some portion of the Campbell family.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 28, 2001 from Madrid, Spain
from the travel blog: Spain (2001)

Lisbon, Portugal
written by  shoshtrvls on April 2, 1995 from Lisbon, Portugal
from the travel blog: Portugal (1995)

Day 1 (Continued)
Athens, Greece
Just when I had resolved to improve my attitude, I'm advised that my Paris-Athens ticket has been downgraded to economy. Rudely and with no apologies. Moreover, no one would even consider a refund or travel credit, and it took all the anger I could muster just to get proof of the downgrade -- a stamp on the back of my boarding pass. In fact, first they stamped the ticket and then tried to take it away from me. What idiots. And what a shitty way to begin my vacation. (It's USAir from now on).
On the other hand, they did extend and increase the travel credit that I couldn't use to buy the upgrade, and waived the fee for changing my return flight. I guess I'll wait and see what they do with this.
It's now about 7:40 p.m. -- I spent less than 4 hours in Athens and am now ready to move on -- at 9:25 p.m. -- to Santorini. I spent the afternoon wandering around the outside of the Acropolis (it was closed), the outside of the temple of Zeus (also closed) and inside the Plaka (very much open). The plaka, the old section of Athens, was nice for wandering, sitting in an outdoor cafe, etc.
When I couldn't figure our what else to do, I hopped in a cab and made my way to the domestic airport. And now I'm about ready to fall asleep.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 1, 1993 from Athens, Greece
from the travel blog: Greece (1993)

Day 1 (Continued)
Algeciras, Spain
The bus ride was enjoyable enough -- cramped but nice views of the beach most of the way. It's amazing how much building is going on -- and all the "for sale" signs are in English!
We arrived in Algeciras at about 2:30, in plenty of time to catch the 5 p.m. ferry. Along the way I met Fath, a researcher from Marrakesh who lives in Brussels, and another Moroccan and his mother. Fath and I spent time talking while waiting for the ferry. The ferry eventually left the port at about 5:30 p.m. I slept for most of the 2-1/2 hour trip.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 19, 1991 from Algeciras, Spain
from the travel blog: Morocco (1991)

Day 1 (Continued)
Paro, Bhutan
The plane was slightly delayed but the flight to Kathmandu was short. The views as we landed were spectacular, and I'm amazed at how much Kathmandu has grown in 19 years. We stayed on the plane and then less than an hour we were in Paro. Although we had hoped to get a glimpse of Mt. Everest, there was too much cloud cover -- maybe on the way home.
With less than 50 people on the plane, clearing Bhutan immigration and customs is quick. I don't declare my cigarettes and am not caught. :-)
We are met by our guide Palden. He is young, but very poised and speaks perfect English. (Although English is the official language of Bhutan, you never really know ...). His attire is traditional: a black Gho, knee-high black socks, and black shoes. The Gho is made of pinstripe material with wide white cuffs. Traditional clothing is the norm -- western clothes are not worn while working.
We arrive at our hotel, the Gangety Palace. Quite traditional layout; we are given a large room on the top floor with wonderful views of the Dzong and the town of Paro. Ellery immediately falls asleep in the huge bed.
I meet Palden in the restaurant for coffee and biscuits before we head out for Kyichu Lhakhang temple. Build in the 7th century, it was/is said to pin an ogresses' left foot. The temple is small but filled with interesting buddhas. From there it is back to town, walking down the main street of small shops and restaurants. All the buildings -- houses, shops, hotels -- look the same. As in most rural places, cows and dogs rule the roads.
At dinner in the hotel, Palden tells of his trip tothe US in 2001, spending time with his cousin in Queens, NY, and in Boston, Colorado and, of all places, Cleveland (visiting with a family who had come to Bhutan). I also learn of his attempt to organzie a running trek, his 19-month old daughter, and other interesting tidbits. Ellery eats only rice.
The evening rains come during dinner. I suspect this will be a pattern. Els and I turn in around 8:30. I feel I am back to "me" -- me in an exotic location, feeling and exploring and open to the experience.
Notes: Palden presents us with kigs, which scarves, baskets, and a travel notebook and pen. And a nice touch was a note from Trish, who arranged our trip.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 21, 2006 from Paro, Bhutan
from the travel blog: Bhutan and India (2006)

Melbourne, Australia
Upon arrival, took a cab to the city center and walked a bit. Made my Darwin tour arrangements, bought a journal, and had lunch at the Hopetown Tea Room.
Melbourne has an excellent little zoo. Extremely green and lush with narrow little footpaths winding their way through the gardens. In fact, there is nothing between you (me) and the emus and wallabies except a knee high log railing. The animals can cross the path at their leisure -- kind of a lion country safari without the car. Saw a platypus -- very small animal.
I had taken the train to the zoo, but missed the first one because my watch was half an hour slow -- I was already on Adeleide time. For lunch, I had asparagus and cheese on rye -- very tea-time, or so it seemed.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 2, 1990 from Melbourne, Australia
from the travel blog: Australia (1990)

Kailua, United States
After breakfast, Barbara and I rented scooters and drove up the coast to Kailua Beach. We had wanted to go further, but it was slow going and gas looked to be a problem. The scenery was beautiful -- we passed many nice little bays and coves along the way although the road was sometimes narrow and cars would pass at a rapid speed, honking all the way. Kailua itself was an okay beach, certainly not the prettiest we passed, but very local (except for the windsurfing lessons) and fairly quiet -- we stayed there a few hours.
We took the inland route back -- hwy 61 -- which winds its way through the mountains. Even more dangerous than 72 but worth it -- the scenery was classic Hawaii, very lush and tropical. We took a side road to Pali lookout, also very pretty. We finally got back to Waikiki (after almost ending up on the freeway) and took well-needed showers and made arrangements to go scuba diving and sailing the following day.
(The balance of this post has been rejected by the spam filter!@!)
written by  shoshtrvls on August 2, 1987 from Kailua, United States
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)

Pittsburgh Through A Soup Can
Pittsburgh, United States
Really, did you expect to find us anywhere else for breakfast? Piggy’s it is.
Some observations. Jordan eats virtually nothing. Jordan has a sharp, sarcastic sense, but in a very quiet way. It’s nice to see someone give it back to Ellery every now and again. And Jordan texts constantly – really, how much is there to say and how many people are there to say it to? Ugh, I’m old; this is the comment of an old person who just doesn’t “get it.”
So, after Piggy’s the journey really began. We hit the road just before 9, heading to our first stop – Pittsburgh. To be honest, this was much of Pennsylvania that I had never seen before – there are some mountains here, and lots of rolling farmland, and some beautiful views. Unfortunately, Jordan slept through much of it; Ellery read through much of it. We passed through State College, near Altoon and Johnston, past Nanty Glo. We stopped at the side of the road for peaches and sweet corn, and then we came into Pittsburgh. I had never been here before, and driving into the city is a pretty awesome sight. Just through a tunnel, just as you curve around a bend, the city appears, all towers and Bridges.
I had decided that the Andy Warhol Museum would be a good focal point for this first day; little did I know that Jordan loves Andy Warhol. So, she and Ellery lingered long in rooms of pictures and videos that, to be honest, I just didn’t get. If a museum is supposed to increase your appreciation of an artist, for me, the Andy Warhol Museum failed. But not for the two of them, so the stop, including a brief walk around Pittsburgh, was a success.
Another interesting note; Jordan is so unfamiliar with cities, and particularly northeast cities, that I think she’s rather taken aback by the age, the grime, the small houses. In her mind, it all looks like ghetto, when in reality, it’s just a city.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 13, 2011 from Pittsburgh, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)

Dublin, Ireland
After dropping our bags off at our hotel -- nothing to write home about but serviceable and within walking distance of the heart of Dublin -- we took a short name and ventured out, first walking along the Liffey, where we caught sight of the new bridge by Calatrava, shaped like a harp, the symbol of Ireland.
Our first real stop was at Trinity College, and a visit to the Book of Kells. Um, OK, underwhelming.
Then it was Grafton Street, the main shopping area of South Dublin. All decked out in lights for Christmas, it was a wonderful introduction to the city. We explored a bit and had a quick Thanksgiving dinner of ... pizza and lasagna.
From there, it was onto the Dublin Literary Pub Crawl, led by two actors who punctuated each pub stop with a scene from Beckett, a reading from Joyce, or a bit of wit from Wilde, all the while providing a lot of city history. And, as they prefaced it all by saying there would be a quiz at the end, Ellery took great care to learn all that she could and, sure enough, she tied for the most questions answered (with a little help from mom), netting a small bit of whiskey -- which we promptly traded in for an official Irish Literary Pub Crawl T-Shirt.
written by on November 25, 2010 from Dublin, Ireland
from the travel blog: Dublin (2010)

Day 1 (continued)
Toro Amarillo, Costa Rica
Arrival at El Silencio Lodge and Spa. Relaxation.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 17, 2011 from Toro Amarillo, Costa Rica
from the travel blog: Costa Rica (2011)

Day 3 -- Bagan to Popa
Mount Popa, Myanmar (Burma)
After checking out of our incredible hotel, today began with a visit to the Bagan market. Hundreds of bamboo stalls packed two main areas - produce on one side, meats, fish and hard goods on the other. The stalls were all, for the most part, manned by women, selling every kind of thing you can imagine. We wandered for a bit, eventually purchasing a longhi and shirt for Ellery.
After the market we headed to the jetty for a boat ride up the Irrawaddy river. The boats that ply the river are colorfully painted but of dubious seaworthiness. Still, we climbed aboard for a one-hour ride. in the distance, the pagodas of Bagan crowned the riverbank, while along the shore daily life took place. There were people bathing and cleaning clothes, fishing and selling bamboo. Eventually we arrived at Kyauk Gu U Min, the sight of a small monetary and temple on top of a hill overlooking the river. The temple is built into the mountain, and one can walk through the cave deep into the hill. Otherwise, I confess, it wasn't much to see, so it wasn't long before we were back on the boat and into Bagan.
At my request, we made one shopping stop, to a store that sells puppets. It took a while to choose one but eventually we did, and then moved on to lunch, at a nice traveler restaurant in the heart of the temple area.
Then we hit the road for Mt. Popa, making two stops on the way. The first was at a roadside stand to sample all things palm - palm fruit, palm juice, palm oil. Interestingly, there was no shortage of cactus along the road (along with fields of peanut and sesame) as Po explained that this area is quite dry, even during the rainy seasons which brings only flash floods. Indeed, many parts of the road were covered in mud from the overflowing rivers, which were now bone dry.
Next it was a typical small village closer to Popa. Each house was its own compound, with a thatched hut for living surrounded by plenty of room for the animals - oxen, chicken, pigs and goats. Needless to say, we picked up quite a following of children, who trailed us throughout the village.
Eventually we arrived at Popa, a much cooler place being higher in the mountains, with dense thick jungle that smells of sandelwood. Coming around a bend, we got our first look at Popa, a monestary purchased atop a dead volcano. Really a spectacular sight, not unlike the monastery in Thimpu. Unfortunately, the rains prevented us from actually climbing to the top for a visit, so instead we made due by stopping in town to see some well-maintained statues of the 37 nats (spirits) and lots of monkeys.
From there it was to the hotel for the night. The hotel sits on a mountain just a bit higher than Popa, with huts tumbling down the side, all with a view of the monastery - when it isn't covered in rain clouds. Which was for about 15 minutes of the afternoon, in between the pouring monsoons. So, we were stuck inside for the rest of the night, content to listen to the rain and the monkeys running across the roof.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 21, 2012 from Mount Popa, Myanmar (Burma)
from the travel blog: Southeast Asia (2012)

Bled, Slovenia
Today was a day trip to Bled, a beautiful little lake in the foothills of the Alps. Definitely the type of place where people go to get away for the day or longer; something about it reminded me of Seurat's A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte. People strolling around the lake with kids and dogs (but no monkey)' picnicking on the Banks, and swimming, with boats of several kinds being rowed to the little Island at one end with a church on it. And, since this is Europe, the obligatory castle overlooking it all. Wedding he stroll and had a picnic lunch of our own, composed of cheese we had left over from last night and a fresh baguette purchased in Ljubljana in the morning.
After 3.5 Miles around the lake, we decided that rather than driving to nearby Vintgar Gorge,we would hike the 2.5 Miles. Not a big mistake, but in the hot sun with little shade and a constant uphill climb, it was tiring. Still, there were some nice pastoral scenes along the way - houses on the hills, horses in stables, cows in the Field.
Eventually we made it to the gorge, and that was well worth the visit. A 2 mile circuit along a beautiful small River with many little rapids and waterfalls cascading down. One of the best parts of visiting the gorge was how much Ellery enjoyed it. She complained that I was walking too fast and not savoring the beauty, and she was right.
After the gorge, we were left with the walk back to the lake. And I admit, by the time we got back to the car, my feet were blistered and tired, my ankles ached, and my back was giving out. I can't remember the last time I did so much hiking in one day.
But I survived well enough to make a final stroll along the canal when we returned to Ljubljana, stopping for ice cream and coffee.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 31, 2013 from Bled, Slovenia
from the travel blog: Croatia, Slovenia and Bosnia Herzegovina (2013)

UK
Windsor, United Kingdom
Windsor
written by  shoshtrvls on August 9, 1980 from Windsor, United Kingdom
from the travel blog: Europe (1980)

Day 2 -- Beach and Snorkeling
BlueBay, Netherlands Antilles
Walked around Willemstad in the morning, then spent the rest of the day and afternoon at Blue Bay, relaxing on the beach and snorkeling.
written by on August 31, 2010 from BlueBay, Netherlands Antilles
from the travel blog: Curacao (2010)

Day 2 - Water Again, But This Time Underground
Jerusalem, Israel, West Bank
Although we weren’t entirely in sync with local time yet, we were up early for breakfast before meeting Dafna, our guide in Israel, for our first day of touring.
We started at the City of David, and were the first ones to explore Hezekiah’s Tunnel, splashing our way through the darkness. Dafna was right to get here early. It was a fascinating experience but, even alone, quite claustrophobic; I can’t imagine what it must be like later in the day the tunnel filled with people. We ended the walk with Ellery taking a dip in the Shiloach Pool and then backtracked to the start.
Our next stop was the Jerusalem Archaeological Park, where Ellery patiently waited while Dafna did an excellent job of explaining where we were and what had been here before.
Then we paid a visit to the Western Wall. It was hard to get Ellery to focus and, quite honestly, it wasn’t as moving as I had expected/hoped.
Our next stop was the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and definitely the most interesting of the day. No, it wasn’t because Jesus was supposedly crucified and buried there, but rather because of the comingling of so many different churches and the beautiful mosaics.
From there we wound our way through the various sections of the Old City – the Armenian, Muslim and Jewish quarters, before stopping for lunch.
After that, it was a drive all around Jerusalem, from the Mount of Olives to Mt. Scopus, and then through some of the settlements and the checkpoint to the Palestinian Territories and Bethlehem.
The afternoon was spent relaxing at the pool, with Heidi, Molly, Jonathan and their friends. Then it was a short walk to the International Arts and Crafts Festival taking place just below our hotel, where we grabbed an easy dinner and enjoyed the art and the performances.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 19, 2008 from Jerusalem, Israel, West Bank
from the travel blog: Israel, Jordan and Egypt (2008)

Day 3 -- Anne Frank
Amsterdam, Netherlands
Anne Frank House, Westerkerk, Rembrandt House, Flea Market. Wiped Out.
written by  shoshtrvls on November 24, 2012 from Amsterdam, Netherlands
from the travel blog: Art in Amsterdam (2012)

Day 3 -- Everything Else
Reykjavik, Iceland
Today was the Golden Circle Tour and all that comes with it: Thingvellir National Park, Gulfoss, and Geysir (which doesn't hold a candle to Yellowstone, btw).
In between, however, was snowmobiling at Langjokull Glacier. I'm not sure I've ever been so cold and wet, but it was also a lot of fun. Time well spent.
written by  shoshtrvls on December 1, 2013 from Reykjavik, Iceland
from the travel blog: Iceland (2013)

Day 3 -- Taking Our Time With Art
Berlin, Germany
East Side Gallery, Old Masters Museum, Charlottenburg Christmas Market
written by  shoshtrvls on November 29, 2014 from Berlin, Germany
from the travel blog: Berlin (2014)

Hamilton, Bermuda
OK, I don't even remember what we did on Saturday. Wait ... we spent some time at the pool, and some time at the Beach. Ellery forced me to do water aerobics. Then there was a very sad tree lighting at the hotel.
However, the evening was lovely, as we had dinner with Margaret Potts and another couple at Margaret's home. It was a very nice and inviting atmosphere. I only wish that Margaret had spent less time in the kitchen and more time at the dining table!
written by  shoshtrvls on November 28, 2015 from Hamilton, Bermuda
from the travel blog: Bermuda (2015)

Day 3 -- Still in Prague
Prague, Czech Republic
Castle. Changing of hte guard. Jewish quarter/museum. Old town square.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 25, 2015 from Prague, Czech Republic
from the travel blog: Central Europe (2015)

Day 3 - Rome (Tuesday)
Jewish Museum
Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel, St. Peter's
Jewish Ghetto
written by  shoshtrvls on June 21, 2016 from Rome, Italy

Day 3 - The Hacienda
Quito, Ecuador
A day of horseback riding outside of Quito
written by  shoshtrvls on November 25, 2016 from Quito, Ecuador
from the travel blog: Ecuador (2016)

Day 2 - Colonial Trails
Havana, Cuba
Walk through Old Havana. Lunch at “Paladar La Moneda Cubana". After lunch, complete the Old Havana tour visiting the Cuban Association of Artisans. Return to the hotel for rest and leisure. Dinner will be served at Paladar "Cuba Pasion".
written by  shoshtrvls on April 10, 2017 from Havana, Cuba
from the travel blog: Cuba (2017)

Day 3 - Stockholm
Stockholm, Sweden
Overnight Ferry to Stockholm. Hit up the modern art museum, the Noble museum, the old town, and some of the more modern parts. Tried to see Skansen but ran out of time.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 22, 2017 from Stockholm, Sweden
from the travel blog: Northern European Captials (2017)

Jardin, Colombia
Jardin, Coffee, Shopping Mall
written by  shoshtrvls on December 23, 2017 from Jardin, Colombia
from the travel blog: Medellin (2017)

Day 3 - Kinabatangan River
Kampung Ba, Malaysia
Sabah Tea Plantation, Myne Resort, Kinabatangan River
From Intrepid:
After breakfast you will take a tour of the tea factory itself, ending in sampling some of the delicious varieties. From there, head to Kinabatangan River in private mini van, a trip of approximately 5 hours. Your jungle lodge, located beside the River, is ideal for taking in the lush surrounds. At 560 kilometres, the Kinabatangan River is the second longest River in Malaysia. It's also a protected Forest reserve, containing some of the highest concentrations of wildlife in Borneo. Later in the afternoon you will take a River cruise, hopefully spotting some of the more exotic local creatures. Wild elephants seldom reveal themselves, but crocodiles, macaques, wild orangutan, proboscis monkeys, hornbills and kingfishers are more easily seen. After this short adventure you'll head back to the lodge to enjoy dinner.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 20, 2018 from Kampung Ba, Malaysia
from the travel blog: Borneo and South Korea (2018)

San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
Chapel of Jimmy Ray
written by  shoshtrvls on December 28, 2018 from San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
from the travel blog: Central Mexico (2018 - 2019)

Ciudad de Mexico, Mexico
Frieda Kahlo Museum, Trotsky Museum, Coyocan, Ballet Folklorico de Mexico
written by  shoshtrvls on December 29, 2018 from Ciudad de Mexico, Mexico

Medellin, Colombia
Comuna 13, El Alumbrado
written by  shoshtrvls on December 24, 2017 from Medellin, Colombia

Day 4 -- Helsinki the Second Time
Helsinki, Finland
Bank in Helsinki, this time with all day to explore. Really loved this city. Hit up walked everywhere, from the central market to the Museum of Contemporary Art to Finlandia Hall. Found serenity in The Rock Church and the Kampii Chapel of Silence.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 23, 2017 from Helsinki, Finland

Day 4 - Road Trip
Otavalo, Ecuador
The equator, the market at Otavalo, Parque Condor
written by  shoshtrvls on November 26, 2017 from Otavalo, Ecuador

Day 4 - Rome/Siena/Tuscany (Wednesday)
Siena, Italy
Rome - Capitoline Museum
Dinner in Siena, arrive in Tuscany
Wonderful Villa and hosts
written by  shoshtrvls on June 22, 2016 from Siena, Italy

Day 4 -- On the Road
Krakow, Poland
Drive to Krakow; Old town square.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 26, 2015 from Krakow, Poland

Pool, home.

Day 4 -- Museums A Plenty
Spandau/Citadel, Museum Berggruen, Museum Fur Fotografie, Schwules Museum

Day 4 -- Hanging
Spent the morning just exploring Reykjavik -- stores, museums and shops, before heading home.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 6, 2014 from Reykjavik, Iceland

Day 4 -- Home
Yup, Home.

Puerto Morelos, Mexico
Um, yeah, more hanging.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 2, 2012 from Puerto Morelos, Mexico
from the travel blog: Riviera Maya (2012)

Rovinj, Croatia
Today we drove from Ljubljana to Rovinj. The travel Agency suggested stopping at some caves along the way. We scrapped that. It also suggested some castles. Nope. But the third suggestion was the Winner - a few hours at Lipica, the original Lippizaner stud farm. It was definitely a nice diversion; we saw some training and toured the stables and farm. Not nearly as beautiful as Kentucky Hirose farms but a nice diversion.
Two hours later and we were in Rovinj. Immediate disgust filled me - pretty on the outside, cheap tourist hell on the inside. Like a perverted Chania (my favorite port town anywhere). And we were here for two days! Immediately I tried to book a day trip tomorrow for Venice, but no luck - all sold out. So, I'd have to make the best of it.
And then, slowly, I realized this isn't such a bad place. Behind the tourist crap are some beautiful little streets and shops, and some good cafes and restaurants. In the evening we went for a sunset boatride that was well worth the time. OK, I think I can stay another day.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 1, 2013 from Rovinj, Croatia

Day 4 -- Popa to Mandalay
Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)
Not every day can be incredible, and this was one of those days.
We left the hotel around 8:30 and hit the road to Mandalay. The countryside was nice, but nothing to write home about (notwithstanding the fact that this is exactly what i am doing). But there were points of interest. The first was visiting a market in one of the villages. Much like those in the larger towns, it was a warren of small stalls selling all kinds of goods. What made it worth the stop, though, was that it was so rural. Clearly people had come from neighboring villages to stock up and clearly we, as Westerners, were oddities.
After the market, we hopped on a very new, large highway. Apparently, this road has taken about 10 hours off the drive from Yangon to Mandalay. Po was very proud of this highway.
The other diversion was to the snake temple, about an hour outside of Mandalay. Before we had arrived, I couldn't tell if Po, in describing the temple, meant that there were plaster snakes surrounding the Buddha statues or real ones. The answer was both. Three large boas curled around one of the buddha statues, while the remainder of the temple consisted of Buddhas sitting in front of plaster snakes. Other than the snakes, though, the temple held little of interest. So, we had a quick $2 lunch at a traditional food stall before heading to our destination.
Arriving at our hotel in Mandalay, I was at first not impressed. But there's a reason it was rated No. 1 on tripadvisor - it's probably as welcoming and charming as anywhere. Anyway,after dropping our bags off and resting a bit, we took to the streets, wandering along the palace walls, and through small dirt road and neighborhoods. One surreal experience was walking down a dirt road lined with small stalls and businesses, being followed by a pushcart selling CDs, blasting music. It was as though our walk had its own soundtrack. We were greeted with "hello" by everyone, including the most adorable 6 year old sitting on her father's motorbike coming home from school, who asked us in flawless English, "May I introduce myself? I am Kayo.". We eventually found ourselves at Kuthodaw Pagoda, a beautiful temple of 700 white stupas surrounding one large gold one. In each white stupa is a marble slab with Buddhist teachings, which is why they call it the world's largest book.
Returning to our hotel, we enjoyed cocktail hour at the pool, getting to know our fellow guests from around the world before a brief dinner and bed.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 22, 2012 from Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)

The Road To Cleveland
Cleveland, United States
From Pittsburgh, it was on to Cleveland, our planned stop for the evening. It was a relatively short drive, punctuated by the usual Pennsylvania highway road construction (indeed, the drive from Lake Harmony to Pittsburgh had no less than 5 construction areas). Arrival was relatively uneventful, but dinner was comical, as we arrived at the small cafe across the street just as it was closing. Still, we were served and ate as quickly as possible while the waitress did her best not to push us out the door while, effectively, pushing us out the door.
After, the girls headed down to the hotel swimming pool, while I headed to the hotel bar to meet up with Jay, a friend I hadn’t seen in a year. It was wonderful catching up with him and we talked for a quite a bit before I returned to the room, instructed the girls to turn off the electronics that were occupying their time, and get some sleep.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 13, 2011 from Cleveland, United States

Machupicchu, Peru
First we take the train, passing through Ollantaitambo to Kilometer 88 near the Llactapata ruins, and hike to the Three White Stones campsite, which may or may not be near Wayllabamba. My companion gets altitude sickness but fortunately at the campsite is a fancy-shmancy tour group and they have oxygen.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 14, 1989 from Machupicchu, Peru

Machupicchu, Peru
Today we made it over Dead Woman's Pass, the highest we'll climb, and spent the night camping near the Runturacay ruins
written by  shoshtrvls on June 15, 1989 from Machupicchu, Peru

Austria
Rust, Austria
Rust
written by  shoshtrvls on July 18, 1984 from Rust, Austria
from the travel blog: France, Austria and Russia (1984)

Day 1 (continued)
Cape Canaveral, United States
It's all VERY Disney. Organized, orderly, sterile. But you know, sometimes you want that.
Ellery and Samantha dressed in their matching red outfits for our first dinner of the cruise.
written by  shoshtrvls on February 23, 2008 from Cape Canaveral, United States
from the travel blog: Western Caribbean (2008)

UK
London, United Kingdom
London
written by  shoshtrvls on August 9, 1980 from London, United Kingdom
from the travel blog: Europe (1980)

Our third day started at teh Tuileries, looking foro the view of the Louvre that Madeline had. It was a bit chillier than we had anticipated.
Of course, when we got to the Louvre, there was something there that Madeline had never seen -- a huge glass pyramid. Is Mona Lisa smiling at the change?
After lunch at the tres chic Angelina cafe, we went walking. First, it was the Place Vendome. We didn't find any thieves, but we did find the police!
We continued walking until we found the Opera Garnier, and decided to go inside. We were impressed by Chagall's ceiling, but Ellery thought she could improve on the design.
After the Opera, we took the metro (as we did throughout our trip) to the Musee de la Poupee, the Doll Museum.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 21, 2003 from Paris, France
from the travel blog: France, Belgium and London (2003)

Chickaloon, United States
We passed through Chickaloon on our way to the Matanuska Glacier.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 17, 2005 from Chickaloon, United States
from the travel blog: Alaska (2005)

Tangier, Morocco
At the other Moroccans suggestion, I stayed at the Grand Hotel Ville de la France -- a bargain at 165 dh. A nice place -- somewhat old, but with nice, quiet gardens and all the amenities of home and then some (a bidet for example).
I was, of course, approached by a guide (Abdul? Ahmed?) and decided that his services could be used. We walked around the Medina a bit, went to the obligatory carpet shop, and then to a restaurant where clearly all the guides brought their tourists. It was expensive and inhabited by one large group of Germans and three brits from Gibralter ("Gib" as they say) for the day. We shared some wine (they were on their third bottle) which needed to be considerably watered down. Whether it was their accent I don't know, but I understood them less than I did the french-speaking Moroccans. While I was tempted to party with them after, I was much too tired and instead went back to the hotel to sleep.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 19, 1991 from Tangier, Morocco
from the travel blog: Morocco (1991)

Thira, Greece
Te plane to Santorini was full of Americans, at least thirty o them. Behind me sat 2 women -- 1 American and 1 British. At the time they seemed quite obnoxious.
Eventually, the plane landed and needless to say, we were all accosted by the usual group of touts showing off their penions. Eventually I ended up in a minivan with the two women and a couple from Houston. We were taken to a nice, clean little place very similar to the one I stayed in in Cuzco, Peru. After getting settled, the five of us went out for dinner and a walk.
We found a great little taverna packed with Greeks (thank g-d). I learned that the American woman, Tammy, worked for the Department of Defense studying ergonomics and the Brit, Fiona, was getting her masters in child psychology. They met when Tammy spent a semester studying in Britan. They are young; I am old. The couple from Houston went back to the pension after dinner. Tammy, Fiona and I had a drink and eventually returned to base by 1 a.m. Had to put the earplugs in due to a barking dog and Fiona and Tammy's laughter.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 1, 1993 from Thira, Greece
from the travel blog: Greece (1993)

Toledo, Spain
A nice little side trip, including a visit to the small antique shop that my mother and I discovered almost 15 years earlier.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 29, 2001 from Toledo, Spain
from the travel blog: Spain (2001)

written by  shoshtrvls on February 17, 2002 from Rome, Italy

Lisbon, Portugal
written by  shoshtrvls on April 3, 1995 from Lisbon, Portugal
from the travel blog: Portugal (1995)

Adelaide, Australia
Peter and Gretchen met me at the airport and took me to my hotel, a pub called Moore's Breaknock Hotel. Very Irish, quite clean and a fair bargain at A$30/night. After dropping my bag and giving Gretchen her things, we walked across town to a pizza parlour for dinner and talked until I nearly fell asleep, which I did as soon as I got back to my hotel.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 2, 1990 from Adelaide, Australia
from the travel blog: Australia (1990)

Paro, Bhutan
Ellery awoke at about 3:30 a.m. and didn't really to back to sleep, so we were both up quite early surveing the view from the hotel. Breakfast at 7:30 a.m. consisted of toast, butter and some bananas and, for me, horrible "baked beans."
Eventually we set off for the National Museum. As a former watchtower, the structure was interesting, as were many of the buddhas inside. The balance of the museum consisted of trongsas (banners) and other artifacts. The stairs in all the buildings are steep, built like the land.
Then it was to the dzong -- much larger up close. There was to be a special ceremony this evening so there were many people and monks about. Ellery and I bought cords knotted by the lama -- hers blue for water, mine red for fire. Monks as young as 7 moved about. The weather was perfect so we walked down the road, across the fortified bridge over Paro Chhu (river), near a chorten where our car and driver Dorji met us.
However, we weren't done with Paro yet because just as we were leaving we passed several men practicing archery, Bhutan's national sport. Even more interesting, they were using tratiional bows and arrows and were shooting arrows very, very far away. Fascinating.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 22, 2006 from Paro, Bhutan
from the travel blog: Bhutan and India (2006)

Istanbul, Turkey
Our first full day in Istanbul was a busy one and filled with many of the required tourist activities. It started with an early breakfast at the hotel, after which Mark and I headed into Istanbul proper. Our first stop, a purely practical one, was in the modern business district of Taksim to purchase ferry and plane tickets for the next leg of our journey and exchange money. As the exchange rate was approximately 77,000 Turkish Lira to the dollar, figuring out the real cost of things in our heads took math skills which are sorely lacking in my genetic make-up. I solved this problem by creating a little exchange rate cheat sheet that by the end of our trip would become a tattered and illegible reminder of the fact that Mark and I are incurable spendthrifts. Meanwhile, Mark created a mini-dictionary with those necessary phrases such as (phonetic spelling here) "Kash pura?" (meaning "How much?"), "Tuvalet?" (toilet?) and, for me, "Eht Estaymayorum" ("I don't eat meat").
From Taksim it was down the hill to the main part of old Istanbul, the one featured in all the pictures of the many-domed mosques cascading down into the ocean. We began our sightseeing at Topkapi Palace, a several acre site of your basic old palace-type stuff, similar in many ways to the Alhambra in Spain. To be honest, not much held our attention until we came to the section where the wealth of the Ottoman empire was displayed -- room after room of ruby and diamond encrusted jewelry, arms, and furniture, and a dagger with an emerald handle that was stunning.
From Topkapi we walked down a block for our first of many mosque visits -- the Blue Mosque. The mosque had stunning stained-glass windows and hand-painted tiles, making the quick visit definitely worthwhile.
After the Blue Mosque, Mark and I did what we would do over and over again on this trip -- we shopped, of course. In Turkey, as in most middle-eastern countries, this means wandering through bazaars, being convinced by a tout to enter a store, and then sitting for hours sipping tea and watching hundreds of beautiful carpets unfold before your eyes, or stacks of miniature paintings being sorted through, or piece after piece of jewelry displayed. It takes a strong will to walk away without buying anything, but there is wealth to be gained, not just spent, in these visits. Carpet talk almost always includes learning about politics ("This carpet comes from near Lake Van, which you can't get anymore because of the Kurd problem." "Really? And what is your view of the Kurdish rebellion?" and so on) and lifestyles (what our houses look like, what their homes look like, etc). Of course, Mark and I did not come away from Istanbul's Grand, or Covered, Bazaar empty-handed; a few miniature paintings somehow found their way into our daypacks.[p>
As the shops in the bazaar closed down, Mark and I wandered through a few neighborhoods and eventually found a small restaurant in the old city where we had a quiet dinner before returning to the hotel.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 3, 1996 from Istanbul, Turkey
from the travel blog: Turkey and Greece (1996)

Rock Around The Clock
Cleveland, United States
It’s pretty amazing how much can be packed into one day. After a brief hotel breakfast, we headed to the 9th Street Pier (I think that’s what it is called) on Lake Erie and The Rock ‘n Roll Hall of Fame.
I expected this to be at most a two hour diversion, but the museum is overwhelming and we spend nearly four hours there. It’s sensory overload, but well worth it. Really, the only disappointment was that someone decided that Taylor Swift deserved to be included in the “Women of Rock” exhibit. (Oh, and someone tell me, what do they have against Elton John? He’s nowhere to be found).
written by  shoshtrvls on July 14, 2011 from Cleveland, United States

Toro Amarillo, Costa Rica
Hiking, Waterfalls, Town.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 18, 2011 from Toro Amarillo, Costa Rica
from the travel blog: Costa Rica (2011)

Dublin, Ireland
Friday took us to Merion Square and the famous statue of Oscar Wilde, the Museum of Art, to hop-on, hop-off bus, and the Kilmainham Gaol -- definitely one of the most interesting tours we've taken, and very much like the tour of Robin Island in [[South-Africa]] -- tales of politics, prisoners, love of country and, eventually, freedom.
The afternoon sent us to North Dublin and "real" shopping -- for coats, as the temperature had dropped significantly and all signs pointed to snow.
On Friday evening, we went to see The Merry Ploughboys dinner show. While I'm not usually one for touristy stuff, as Ellery was too young to go to the pubs in Temple Bar for local music, we had little choice in the matter. I was pleasantly surprised, however, as the music and dancing were not only good, but so was the food, and the atmosphere really didn't feel all that contrived. All in all, it was a good way to squeeze in some traditional song and dance.
written by on November 26, 2010 from Dublin, Ireland
from the travel blog: Dublin (2010)

Day 5 -- Mandalay
Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)
I like Mandalay. It has life. Maybe it's the motorbikes that are absent from Yangon, or that it isn't holding onto British Colonialism, or maybe just that Ellery and I have been venturing out on our own here, but what's ever makes it this was is good.
Jo picked us up around 8:30 for the one-hour boat trip to Mingun. Although not far from the city center, life along the river is immediately rural. Thatched huts high on stilts to protect them when the river swells, oxen plowing small fields on small islands, workers collecting sand from the banks to be used to construction in the city.
Mingun itself was a bit of a disappointment. Touted as a wonderful, artistic and picturesque place, I found it somewhat uninteresting. The climb to the top of the crumbling brick Mingun Pagoda provided a nice view, but nothing else. The Mingun Bell was a big bell, and the white-washed Hisnbyume Pagoda offered nothing new. And the artisans were less than inspiring.
Returning back to Mandalay, The ferry area was now one bistling with activity, wooden boats tied four and five abreast, people loading and unloading goods from up and down the river, women doing laundry. Then it was lunch at a Burmese restaurant, Amidah, which Jo says is one of the best in the city. It was certainly a crowded, happening place.
Then it was back to sightseeing. The wooden Golden Palace Monastery was the most interesting as it was all carved teak wood. The weather had worn away the gold leif on the exterior, but it was still present on the inside. We also visited Kayuktawgyi Pagoda with its huge, luminous marble buddha,and yet another temple, the Maha Myat Muni Pagoda, with a gold Buddha, this one quite crowded. Interspersed with these visits were the obligatory factories - here gold leif (which was actually interesting) and woodworking (which was not).
After a few hours of rest at the hotel, Ellery and I again ventured out, this time walking down 26th street, with it's packed beer gardens and restaurants. We took Jo's advice and had dinner at Cafe JJ. I mention this only because Cafe JJ was clearly where the cool kids ate. Part restaurant, part western coffee house offering expresso and cappuccino, and part ice cream shop, there were no longyis here, but instead kids running everywhere, dudes in jeans talkng on cell phones, and girls with dyed hair and skirts that would put a hooker to shame.
Our evening ended with a traditional Burmese puppet show. It probably wasn't the best, but it was good fun, with several different scenes that made no sense to us, but definitely displayed the difficulty of manipulating the puppets. There was also traditional music and dance mingled in, and at the end the ancient Puppetmaster came out to greet all 9 of us, all visitors, who had come to see the show. Made me remember my youth at the Bob Baker Marionettes.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 23, 2012 from Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma)

Rovinj, Croatia
Today we did ... Nothing. Slept in. Took the Ferry to St. Catharine Island. Sat on the beach. Swam in the Ocean. Slept. Read. Took Ferry back.
And then, walking back to the hotel, we heard something familiar - the street musician who had so captivated us in Ljubljana was now in Rovinj. So we sat on the street and listened to him play until the streets were nearly empty. Spent some time talking with him in between his sets. Bought a CD of his music - Vincent van Hessen. From Tel Aviv and Amsterdam, played in the subways in New York, makes quite a good living traveling the world and playing in the streets. And it's no Surprise, as he had the entire town captivated.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 2, 2013 from Rovinj, Croatia

Day 3 -- Finally, we do something
Chichen-Itza, Mexico
OK, now I've seen all Seven Wonders of the Modern World. (This was the least impressive of them all)
written by  shoshtrvls on April 3, 2012 from Chichen-Itza, Mexico

Day 3 - When In Rome ... In Israel
Bet She'an, Israel
We started with an early morning drive along the West Bank to Bet She'an where we walked through the Roman ruins. They were fascinating but it was much much too hot so afterwards we cooled off at the natural springs at Sacchne.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 20, 2008 from Bet She'an, Israel
from the travel blog: Israel, Jordan and Egypt (2008)

Ushuaia, Argentina
Carole and I both woke early this morning and like most people believed we were under way. Alas, this was not the case. So, after breakfast, we were herded onto a catamaran for a morning of sightseeing on the Beagle Channel, the narrow straight between South American and Tierra Del Fuego. The highlight was certainly the Isle de los Lobos, a small, ricky outcropping covered by comerants on one side, seals and sea lions on the other. We also saw our first penguins, three Magellanic swimming alongside the boat. Clearly, if we had to waste a day in Ushuaia, this was the way to do it.
Also on the boat were two girls, one a French Canadian who was climbing all seven peaks (she had just completed the South American peak) and the other from Massachusetts spending four months in South America. Also interesting was a naturalist who had been studying the seals and seal lions for two years.
Upon our return to Ushuaia, there was spontaneous cheering as we rounded the harbor and saw the petrol truck alongside our boat. However, as the boat was not fully gassed, we were all bussed to a lodge in the interior of the island, where we were treated to a "traditional" meal of roasted lamb. I fell in love with the salsa, and David, our adorable tour manager, got me a jar of it. The scenery both up and back was beautiful, and Natalie Goodall gave an interesting little nature walk/talk. I must say, the organizers have made the most of our "last" day, turning it into something I would not have wanted to miss.
We returned to the boat around 3:30 p.m. and by 4:00 we were under way -- only a day late. We watched our progress from the deck before cocktails and dinner. Tonight I ate again with the Boggs, Carole, Cal. Dale and Ernest (Earthwatch veterans), and Mary, former museum curator with a speciality in oriental rugs. Also, I learned that the girl we met on the cat from Mass. has come aboard, inspired by all of us on the cat.
After dinner Natalie (who apparently had helped get the gas) gave an interesting talk on life in Tierra del Fuego and then it was bed.
Notes: ice sheet until 10,000 years ago in the Beagle Channel. Melting ice creates jagged peaks and U-shaped valleys. Whitish water is "flour" due to melting sedimentary hills along the Channel. (Drumlan?) All shows ice exiting - groun is rebounding and rising afater melting. Birds: rock shag, commerants (2 types), black albatros (high aspect wing ratio -- long skinny wings for gliding/no maneuvering), petrals.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 3, 1992 from Ushuaia, Argentina
from the travel blog: Antarctica and South America (1992)

Day 2 (continued)
Honolulu, United States
Dinner was around 8 at the Outrigger Canoe Club with Uncle Martin, Aunt Janet, Scott and Stacey. We sat at a table at the edge of the water with a view of the entire bay. Surprisingly, Scott and Stacey did not seem like complete brats (nice even) although Aunt Janet still seemed a real JAP. We talked about scooters (Scott has one too) and Uncle Martin offered the services of his Hong Kong and Beijing offices to help us plan our China trip.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 2, 1987 from Honolulu, United States
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)

Day 3 -- More Relaxing
Kura Hulanda Lodge and Beach Club, Netherlands Antilles
Spent the day at the hotel's sister lodge, where we hung by the pool and went snorkeling.
written by on September 1, 2010 from Kura Hulanda Lodge and Beach Club, Netherlands Antilles
from the travel blog: Curacao (2010)

On Horseback
San Ignacio, Belize
Our first day at Chaa Creek was both active and relaxing.
Shortly after breakfast we embarked on our first activity of the day, a wonderful horseback ride through the jungle. In addition to me and Ellery, there were four others – a family from, of all places, Ardmore, by way of, of all places, Los Angeles. Our guide was Robert, who was truly wonderful, teaching us about the plants and animals of the jungle, as well as a bit of archeology at an unexcavated Mayan site at the top of one of the mountains we climbed. The ride was much longer than expected, almost 4 hours, and well worth every minute of it.
Then it was lunch and the swimming pool, mixed in with a short walk on the River Trail and the Medicine Plant Trail, both of which run alongside the Macal River. Once apparently very clear, the building of a hydroelectric plant upriver has turned the Macal into a very brown, muddy river and unfortunately not at all tempting. But the pool, filled with salt water, was lovely, and we spent several hours there, me chatting away with Chad and Elizabeth (the couple from Ardmore) and Ellery playing with William and Henry, their two young sons.
Dinner was unremarkable, and followed by a “creatures of the night” walk led by Allan. Unfortunately, Ellery was very frightened, despite the fact that the only creatures were saw were a scorpion, two tarantulas, and lots of ants. But what was amazing were the sounds … an amazing orchestra of birds and insects.
Chaa Creek reminds me very much of the lodge we stayed at in South Africa – a compound of rooms, with a central dining room and bar, terrifically friendly people and very knowledgeable guides. And yet, we really could be anyplace in the world; being in this secluded camp is also being away from local culture. It’s one kind of a vacation and a nice one to boot, but I’m really looking forward to moving on to Guatemala, staying in the heart of towns and spending more time getting to know the culture of the region.
Oh, and I need a better camera – or I need to regain those photography skills I once had but seem to have lost over the last two years.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 23, 2009 from San Ignacio, Belize
from the travel blog: Belize, Guatemala and Honduras (2009)

Day 5 -- Auschwitz
Auschkowitz, Germany
Auschwitz, Salt Mines, Jewish Ghetto, Jewish Quarter, Old Town Square.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 28, 2015 from Auschkowitz, Germany

Day 5 - Florence (Thursday)
Florence, Italy
Florence
- Uffizzi
-Academie (David)
written by  shoshtrvls on September 25, 2016 from Florence, Italy

Day 3 -- Passover
Havana, Cuba
Revolution Square, cemetery, Art Studio of Jose Fuster in Jaimanitas. Lunch at palador in Miramar area? In the afternoon, we visited the Museum of Cuban Art, studio of Painter Salvador Gonzalez, and the Mayot Family studio. The day ended with attendance at a Passover Seder at the local conservative synagogue.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 11, 2017 from Havana, Cuba
from the travel blog: Cuba (2017)

Day 5 - Russia!
Saint Petersburg, Russia
The first day of our St. Petersburg trip. With our guide, we visited the Synagogue, Petershof, and the Hermitage, of course.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 24, 2017 from Saint Petersburg, Russia

Christmas; not much

Ciudad de Mexico, Mexico
Museums, downtown shops
written by  shoshtrvls on December 30, 2018 from Ciudad de Mexico, Mexico

Day 4 -Kinabatangan River
Kampung Ba, Malaysia
Kinabatangan River, Myne Resort
You might awake to the call of a Bornean gibbon, or perhaps a hornbill. Enjoy a morning cruise down the River, searching for more birds and wildlife. Keep an eye out for Long Tail Macaques and Pig Tail Macaques – ask your leader about the difference. Later, you can trek up to a birdwatching Tower overlooking the River and visit a Merabu tree. When it's all over, this evening's River cruise will be your last chance to photograph or simply marvel at your surrounds. Spend one more night in your lovely accommodation right in the heart of the jungle.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 21, 2018 from Kampung Ba, Malaysia

Day 5 - Sandakan
Sandakan, Malaysia
Gomatong Cave,War Memorial
Travelling by private minivan, you will stop to visit the intricate Gomantong Caves. Renowned for their edible swiftlet nets, which are harvested for bird's nest soup. Bird's nest collection is an ancient tradition, though nowadays licences are required for it. Travelling to Sandakan, a journey of 3 hours, you will stop in at the Sandakan War Memorial. Here you will learn about the city's past as you stand on the same ground of the former Japanese POW camp. This site also marks the starting point of the tragic Sandakan Death Marches, on which 2,400 POWs were forced to walk through the jungles of Borneo. By the end of the March, only 6 Australians survived, and only because they had escaped. Arrive in Sandakan, which was once the capital of British North Borneo and traditionally has strong trading ties with Hong Kong. The Cantonese influence is palpable in the lively harbour-side market, the many Chinese temples and the local cuisine.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 22, 2018 from Sandakan, Malaysia

Ciudad de Mexico, Mexico
Synagogues, Roma, Contramar, New Year's Eve
written by  shoshtrvls on December 31, 2018 from Ciudad de Mexico, Mexico

Madellin Museum of Art, Jardin Botanico, La Zona Rosa

Day 6 -- More St. Petersburg
Saint Petersburg, Russia
On our own, we walked around the city, visited the Church of the Spilt Blood, saw AMAZING art at the Museum of Russian Art, and bought some of our own. Ended with a stop of that delectable art nouveau Eleseyev Emporium.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 25, 2017 from Saint Petersburg, Russia

Day 4 - Photography and Art
Morning visit to the School of Creative Photography of Havana Visit additional artists studios. Lunch at "Living Havana" for a Cubano. Afternoon at Finca Vigia,to learn about Hemingway's life in Cuba and the place that inspired him to write "The Old Man and the
Sea". More walking through old Havana and return to the hotel for rest. Dinner at Paladar "REJONEO".

Day 6 - Chianti (Friday)
Castellina in Chianti, Italy
San Giamangno
Castellina in Chianti
Greve in Chianti
written by  shoshtrvls on June 24, 2016 from Castellina in Chianti, Italy

Day 6 -- More Krakow
Krakow, Poland
Walk through old town, church, castle. Jewish quarter. Dinner and concert in the church.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 29, 2015 from Krakow, Poland

Day 3 (cont.)
Piste, Mexico
On the other hand, the Ik Kil Cenote was magnificent.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 3, 2012 from Piste, Mexico

Plitvicki Ljeskovac, Croatia
Not much to report again today. Mostly a nice drive from Rovinj to our hotel near Plitvice Lakes. We stopped for lunch in a seaside resort called Opatija. Very Austrian, definitely high class, and pretty boring as well. I'm wondering if this country has a middle ground between tacky and yawn-inducing.
After Opatija, the drive was quite scenic. Large mountains and huge valleys of farmland, and so we had to stop for cheese - well worth it. Then we drove through dense Forest, very reminiscent of South Dakota.
We got to our hotel about 3 - too late and too hot to start on the lakes. So instead, around 7, we went riding, a one hour Trail ride through the Forest, which was even more beautiful on horseback. Since it was a walking ride, Ellery was left frustrated, so we'll be back tomorrow so she can get some galloping in.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 3, 2013 from Plitvicki Ljeskovac, Croatia

Day 6 -- Two Weddings and a Funeral
Sagaing, Myanmar (Burma)
Two weddings and a funeral. No, you can't make this stuff up.
We left the hotel earlier than normal today to attend the 8:30 a.m. wedding of his friend, the son of the owner of the puppet show. (Evidently, Jo worked at the puppet theater before becoming a guide). The wedding ceremony was held at a large restaurant. Upon arrival, we were handed flowers and, for those bringing gifts, they were also given a bamboo fan with the equivalent of a NY Times wedding notice printed on it, including degrees received and employment held by the bride and groom. At the front of the room were large white chairs and on a curtain hanging behind them the names of the bride and groom. A band played quietly off to the side of the stage Seating was open, and upon sitting at a table, a plate of chinese dim sum and bowl of ice cream were provided. (Remember, it is 8 in the morning).
We sat with two of the puppeteers from the evening before, and Jo was quite animated as he chatted with them. People were dressed in everything from beautiful silk longhi style dresses to everyday wear. As weddings are held on good luck days, although today is Sunday, apparently they are held any day of the week, so people may come for the ceremony and then go straight to work. Apparently, this part of the wedding, the morning reception, lasts about 5 hours during which time friends and family come and go at their leisure. We were warmly greater by several family members, and made to feel very comfortable despite the fact that we obviously did not belong.
At 8:30, the festivities began. While the singer and the band played a traditional wedding song, the bridesmaids walked down the aisle to the front of the room, the first one dropping flowers from a silver bowl, very much like a wedding in the US. Then the bride and groom came in together, wearing traditional clothing in white, beautifully decorated. They were followed by the parents and other relatives. The master of ceremonies then began reading the bride's and groom's many accomplishments. The ceremony itself appeared to have three main parts. First, the bride and groom placed flower garlands on one another. Then the brides parents placed the wedding rings on the fingers of the bride and groom, rather than having them couple exchange rings. The reason for this is to bestow on the new couple the same longevity of their marriage. (The groom's parents did not participate because they are, I'm divorced. No longevity there). Then there was a hand washing or shaking ceremony, although this I couldn't quite see. Finally, the Master of Ceremonies announced that the two were married. No kissing followed, however, just the obligatory many family photographers. All told, it was about 1/2 hour and not so different from our weddings. Later tonight, there will also be a large reception, although this is not always done, and has only recently been adopted from the west.
From the wedding g we headed out of town to see the three historical capitals, Sagaing, Ava, and Amarapira. We drove along the river, and one of the most striking things was how much teak is being harvested. It was piled up all along the river and on large barges, headed for export. Deforestation must certainly be a big problem here.
Before reaching Sagaing, we stopped to visit in a small village known for its woodworking. And this time, it was very interesting, as the people were truly engaged in their work, and not part of a factory for tourists. At the first house, on a table sat a wedding fan like the one from the wedding we had been to just a half hour earlier. It also said June 24, and then we began to notice that many of the women were wearing nicer silk longhi, not the normal village wear. There was music in the distance and as we wandered through, we eventually came upon the wedding party. What a difference! The event was in a brightly painted canopied area, and the music was blasting from loudspeakers. It was so colorful and festive; nearly the opposite of the city wedding.
We eventually made it to Sagaing, which seemed to have as many whitewashed temples spilling along the hillside as there were brick ones in the valley in Bagan. It is home to numerous monasteries and meditation centers, and we traveled first to the temple at the very top of the mountain to take in the view. Then it was another pagoda and a nunnery and a pottery factory. (These "factories" as they are called, are really just shops, with 10 or so people using traditional methods of craftwork). At which point I'm thinking I don't need to see any more temples, monasteries, or craft factories on this trip. There are only so many Buddhas one can take.
After Sagaing, we took a short ferry ride to Ava. A very bumpy one hour horse cart ride took us around this little river island where we saw ... yes, an old monastery and an old temple. The monastery, however, was all black teak, with children studying under the not-very-watchful eye of a monk. That was different and worth seeing. Lunch was also on Ava, where we were joined by some chameleons, a snake, and about 10 Spaniards on tour, before taking the ferry back and heading to our last destination of the day, Amarapura.
The only thing worth seeing in Amarapura is the U Bein Bridge - a 1.2 km teak footbridge that connects Amarapura with a neighboring village. This appears to be quite the Burmese tourist attraction, with many people strolling along the bridge and taking pictures.
The final stop was, of course, a silk textile shop, where the workers truly labored to make gorgeous fabrics. When I first traveled to this part of the world, in 1987, I was amazed at the craftsmanship of this work. But 25 years later, I am saddened by it; it is hours of hard hunched over labor, mostly by young girls, using ancient tools, yes, what they make is beautiful and it provides them with a living, but a machine can do the same, and not grow old hunched over a loom for 8 hours a day, every day, for one's entire life.
Then it was back to Mandalay. But first ... Yes, the funeral. The "hearse" was a brightly decorated truck; I thought for sure it was some festival. Nearby was a long line of marchers walking down a road. Only then did Jo realize that it was a funeral. Two more weddings and we'll have a movie.
Back in Mandalay, we passed one last interesting site - the motorbike registration line. Sounds ridiculous, but evidently motorbikes - which are everywhere - did not need to be registered before this month. But now they do, and there were hundreds of bikes and owners lined up waiting to register their bikes on Monday morning. Really, it was like being in Sitges, but with scooters rather than Harleys, longyis rather than leather jackets.
Dinner tonight was at a small restaurant near the hotel - chicken noodles for $2.00/pp. Can't beat that.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 24, 2012 from Sagaing, Myanmar (Burma)

Go Blue!
Ann Arbor, United States
Eventually, we got back on the road and headed toward Chicago. As we drove through the beautiful farm country of Ohio, a small voice from the back seat asked, “Will we be going through Michigan?” And all of a sudden, I remembered one of the first things Ellery told me about Jordan – she was a huge U of Michigan fan and wanted to go to college there. “Nope, sorry, it isn’t on the way.” An hour later, and there was the exit sign “Ann Arbor – Rte 22 – next left.” Well, what would a road trip be without a detour? So, to Ann Arbor we went.
It was only an hour out of the way, and we spent only an hour there – most of it with Jordan shopping for GO BLUE wear, but it was all worth it. I think she was momentarily the happiest person on earth.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 14, 2011 from Ann Arbor, United States

Machupicchu, Peru
Another day of trekking ... and one on which I thought I'd never get through. It wasn't the uphill portions that did me in, but rather the 1,000 Inca steps down from the last pass to the hostel near the ruins of Winay Wayna. Really, I've never felt my legs shake like that before.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 16, 1989 from Machupicchu, Peru

Cusco, Peru
Ah, finally, Machu Picchu. Woke up early and had the place pretty much to ourselves until the first train arrived. Well worth the effort. Took the train back to Cusco and checked into the Hotel Tambo.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 17, 1989 from Cusco, Peru

Russia
Moscow, Russia
Moscow
written by  shoshtrvls on July 25, 1984 from Moscow, Russia

Cape Town, South Africa
We started this day with a visit to Kristenbosch Gardens before heading north of the city.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 26, 2004 from Cape Town, South Africa
from the travel blog: South Africa, Zimbabwe and Zambia (2004)

This day found us on the bridge to the Institut de France, where Ellery carried Madeline just as Ms. Clavell had done.
Then on to the Ile de la Cite, where our first visit was to Sainte Chapelle. From Sante Chapelle, it was only a few steps to Notre Dame. While Ellery wasn't impressed with the exterior, she was entralled by the inside. Many drawings were made of the beautiful glass windows.
Then it was lunch at teh fashionable Deux Magots Cafe on the Left Bank.
On to the Jardin du Luxembourg for a bit of play, including a pony ride. The day then ended at the Musee National du Moyen Age Theermes et Hotel de Cluny to see the tapestries of the Lady and her Unicorn.

Ushuaia, Argentina
The morning was spent at sea as we slowly made our way up the Beagle Channel, waiting for the Argentine pilot to come aboard. Eventually he did and we sailed toward Harberton, Natalie and Tom's farm. It was truly an idyllic place, nestled at the end of a large cove. After so many days of only sea andice, the luch grass and green hillsides were a welcoming sight.
After a tour of Natalie's flora preserve and the farm itself, some of us took a short walk out to the bone house and to a lake for birdwatching.
We stayed at Harberton several hours before continuing on to Ushuaia. Once docked, the finale was upon us -- the Captain's Dinner. I "dressed" by putting on clean clothes -- which were quickly dirtied by the spilt baked alaska. Post-dinner was again spent with the Smiths, the Rodenbachs, Corey and Carole.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 12, 1992 from Ushuaia, Argentina

More exploring of Madrid.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 30, 2001 from Madrid, Spain

Sintra, Portugal
A trip to Sintra, Portugal.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 4, 1995 from Sintra, Portugal

Thira, Greece
The long travel day eventually caught up with me and I slept until 10:00. However, beginning at about 7 or 8, I could hear church bells ringing and mules being driven past my window. The manager of the pension didn't have time to say "good morning" (everyone here speaks English) before asking if I was staying another night and demanding another 3000 drachmas. Tammy and Fiona were soon up and after showers and such we made our way toward town at about 11:00.
Breakfast was oj and greasy eggs while overlooking the Mediterranean Ocean. Then it was to travel agency city where we booked a 2 p.m. mini-cruise to the volcano and Hot Springs. We then walked a bit before returning to our rooms to change for the boat trip.
In making our way to the cable car to the old part, we discovered real Thira -- shops and bars pitched precariously on cliffs above the bay. The view was spectacular and I could see why the Houston couple had left our small pension to find a place with this view.
The boat trip was OK -- first a 1/2 hour hike up to the top of the volcano where Tammy, Fiona and I had a quick picnic lunch, then a cruise around the Caldera -- it was both hard work and relaxing, especially since we took a mule back up.
We returned for more window shopping, a change of clothes and dinner theoretically watching the sunset, but it was too hazy. In any event, the food and the company was good and it was an enjoyable day.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 2, 1993 from Thira, Greece

Tangier, Morocco
I slept well, waking about 8:30. Eventually, I got up, checked out of the hotel, and made my way to the tourist bureau, who gave me a map worse than the one in the guide book.
I was hassled by a few men, but nothing like I had been led to believe. One guy (waiter at Forbes birthday) did take me through the Kasbah even when I told him I would not pay him and would not look at any carpets.
I then made my way through the Medina, finding myself among the poultry stalls, spice baskets and a very pungent fish market, eventually arriving at the train station, where I purchased my ticket to Fez. I then went walking along the beach, with the camels, and back, where I ran into the guy from the boat. I am now sitting in the Cafe de Paris having a coke.
I am both relieved and disappointed with Tangier. Relieved, because the harassment has been minor and I feel that I can take care of myself. Disappointed because Tangier is far from exotic. The markets have little of interest to offer; the Kasbah has nice views but none of the real beauty one finds at, for example, the Alhambra. While I'm sure that some of this has to do with the amount of money spent by the government, much of it does not. Crumbling walls are only so interesting. (There is a blond sitting to my right also writing in a diary). In short, this is not the hell-hole that Lonely Planet claims, but also not particularly interesting or exciting, none of the smells or sights of someplace truly interesting.
(When do people eat here??)
Leaving the cafe and heading toward the hotel I was stopped by the "guide" for the three Brits. He insisted I could not get lunch at the hotel and took me to a small restaurant in the medina. I paid 22.5 dh for good meat and fries -- probably still a rip-off but much better than the tourist trap last night.
Then, of course, he took me to his rug shop. I did see one I liked and told him that I would buy it when I cam back, if I felt the price was fair ($400 down to $250 by the time I left). I don't know if he believed me.
Anyway, I'm now sitting by the hotel pool, listening to the wind blow through the palm trees, preparing to head for Fez.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 20, 1991 from Tangier, Morocco

Thimphu, Bhutan
On the drive to Thimpu, we passed Tamchhog Lhakhag, a private temple, and an old iron suspension bridge before arriving at Chhuzom, where the Paro Chhu and the Wan Chhu meet. Here we were stranded for about an hour because of road work, although this gave me (Ellery was asleep) time to walk through the small stalls where the roads meet, photograph the three chortens (Tibetan, Nepali and Bhutanese) at the rivers' convergence, and get an up close look at several prayer flags.
The drive from Chhuzom was uneventful -- food stalls along the way.
After checking int othe hotel and having a late lunch, we visited the Textile Museum, which Ellery enjoyed, and the paper-making factory, where Ellery bought a small scroll. The textile weaving, something Bhutan is known for, was very fine. There was a spectacular embroidered square that had taken 2 men one year to make.
Ellery and I then walked the main street of Thimphu. It didn't smell all the great, but that didn't stop Ellery from making friends with many small dogs. We visited a handcrafts store and had dinner at the hotel.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 22, 2006 from Thimphu, Bhutan

Adelaide, Australia
I was up and about by 8:30, although Gretchen didn't arrive until after 10. We then walked into the center of the city and did some errands -- bought a flashlight, made Island reservations, etc. We then went to Peter's mother's card shop and I was properly introduced. From there it was a trip to the bank and to the old parliament house and the university where Gretchen works. Then back to pick up my tickets and take the tram to Glenelg, the "santa monica pier of Adeliede" as Peter puts it.
The tram was quite quaint and provincial, Glenelg was not. However, on the pier I ran into a Bennington parent -- the small world theory of life -- thanks to my house chairperson t-shirt. Ate lunch at a "take-away" lamb restaurant and then back to the city by bus (due to a tram derailment).
More shopping -- post cards and a Ken Done shirt for Anne. From there we went to the Merenda home for a fine bar-b-que dinner -- Steve would have died from all the meat. After, Peter, Gretchen, Angie (Peter's sister) and her boyfriend and I went for a night time drive including a trip up the hills for a view of Adeliede not unlike that of LA from Mulholland. I think I saw Orion in the sky, but I don't know if that's possible in the south -- the stars are so clear here, I can't imagine what they'll be in the Outback.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 3, 1990 from Adelaide, Australia

Honolulu, United States
Our day began with scuba diving at a place called Magic Island on the south side of Oahu not far from Waikiki. There were four of us all together, the other couple were in the air force and on their way back to the states from Guam or something.
Our instructor was Pete Coogan, a really great guy who was very patient and very good. The water was kind of murky and there wasn't a lot to see, mostly tiny fish and some coral, but it was fun. Barbara, for all her certification and training, ran out of air first. The swim in took a while - we were out a lot further than I thought and the tides were fairly strong. It was definitely a good workout.
From there it was another shower, lunch and a walk around Waikiki. We got our shots for the continuing journey and then a two hour catamaran ride at sunset -- relaxing, pretty view, etc. For dinner we took Norm to Monteray Bay Canners (!). The food was okay but he enjoyed it and that was what mattered.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 3, 1987 from Honolulu, United States

The Big City
Chicago, United States
Then it was back on the road – through the wine country of Michigan (who knew there was so much of it?), through Indiana, and eventually to Chicago, where we ended the night with a stroll down the Magnificent Mile and ice cream at Ghirardelli. (Um, no, there’s no “Welcome to Illinois” picture, because we cross the border after dark – best I got is the Chicago sign at sunset).
written by  shoshtrvls on July 14, 2011 from Chicago, United States

Dublin, Ireland
he snow eventually did begin Friday night, and by Saturday morning, it was a full storm. Hence, our planned trip to the Wiklow Mountains was canceled as the roads were closed.
written by on November 27, 2010 from Dublin, Ireland

Sarapiqui, Costa Rica
Horseback riding and rappelling at Pozo Azul; relaxing at the hotel.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 19, 2011 from Sarapiqui, Costa Rica
from the travel blog: Costa Rica (2011)

Day 7 -- Inle
Inle Lake, Myanmar (Burma)
And we're off to Inle Lake. Joe picked us up at 6:30 for the hour or so ride to the airport. Along the way, he told us about a small Nat (spirit) festival that we had missed yesterday in lieu of the temples. I wish we had known, because I would have much preferred to see what he described, which is this. In the house of a medium, people from the neighborhood bring offerings to the spirits, and paint their faces to look like Burmese princesses. Then they eat, and drink beer, and dance to traditional Burmese music. This starts at 9 in the morning and goes most of the day and sometimes even into the night (Joe thought this one would go into the late afternoon, which is why we didn't hurry back; instead, however, it ended mid-day). These "in home" festivals occur only on certain lucky days (June 24 was a good day, for weddings and Nat festivals) and in this case is a "send off" to the Nats as they battle one another, culminating in a huge 7 days festival in August in an area just to the north of Mandalay. I asked Joe if there were these festivals all over Myanmar yesterday and he said no, just the one he had seen near his house. Ah well, with two weddings and a funeral, I can't complain that we didn't see enough of real Burmese culture yesterday.
At the airport in Mandalay, I feel as though I've stepped back 25 years to my backpacker days. Because it is the low season and because travel to Myanmar is still rare, we have begun to see the same few solo travelers in several places. Here in the airport are a couple from Italy and a couple from the US, both of whom we had seen at the puppetshow. As is an older woman, quite sophisticated, who i take to be someone teaching abroad and traveling for her vacation, who we saw in Bagan. And they are all (ok, not the teacher) carrying their well-worn Lonely Planet guidebooks, exchanging information, discussing hostels and places to see and the like. In some ways, I miss being one of those people, having to learn so much more about a country just in order to figure out what local bus to take and where to buy train tickets. But, on the other hand, the luxury of having everything arranged, having a local guide and car at every destination, knowing there's a hot shower at the end of the day, makes things so much easier and more comfortable. I could never do a pre-packaged group tour and as indulgent as a private tour seems, it is really the best of both worlds.
Arriving in Heho, we were met by our guide Sandar, a young woman with very good English (the one thing that made traveling with Joe a problem). On the way to Inle lake we made two stops. The first was to a family that made paper and bamboo umbrellas. Although I am quite jaded of such stops (and there were more to come), the delicacy and skill of this family was quite impressive, and thus we left with our own bamboo umbrella.
Next stop was, yes, a temple and monastery, but an interesting one. The temple was built in the 18th (?) century and displayed both English and Burmese influence. There were hundreds of niches with Buddhas in them, and above and below we're beautiful glass mosaics of everything from British soldiers to tigers to flowers. Next door was the monastery, Shwe Yan Pyay, which consisted of an old teak structure like the several we have seen before and a few newer buildings. The monastery housed about forty young monks and a few older teachers, all of whom were very friendly.
Finally we reached Inle and got on our motor boat and headed out to the lake. Our hotel was about 30 minutes away, a resort consisting of dozens of huts on stilts, like all of the villages around the lake. After a brief rest we headed to the far side of the lake, about 40 minutes away, for lunch, a boat tour of some of the villages, and tours of, sigh, craft factories - silk, silver, and cheroot (cigars). Agriculture is the main occupation, with a lot of rice and tomatoes ioak articulate. We opted out of more monasteries and pagodas, however, and eventually returned to our hotel for dinner (served to a bad cover version of Yellow River by Paper Lace) and sleep.
A few notes - everything here occurs, or seems to occur, on the water, and boats, some motorized and some not, are the mode of transportation for everything - crops, people, hard goods, and schoolchildren - the last being transported by a very long boat, the water equivalent of a school boat. As one might expect of a lake that rises several meters in the rainy season, every building is on stilts, and since the lake is low now, activity occurs both in the houses on top and on platforms lower down. Finally, this place has already figured out the tourist business quite well, with plenty of resorts and restaurants lining the lake. So being here in low season is a bit like being down the shore in November - the locals are curious about you not because you are tourists but because you've come at the wrong time, and most of the hotels and restaurants and closed for the season and being refurbished for next year.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 25, 2012 from Inle Lake, Myanmar (Burma)

Trogir, Croatia
Since a walking Trail ride was not enough for Ellery, we arose early this morning, skipped out on breakfast, and headed back to the stables so Ellery could get in a 2 hours galloping session before we hit Plivice Lakes.
Once she was done, we headed for the lakes for a spectacularly beautiful 4 hour hike. The park was packed to the gills, but still magnificent. It reminded me of the waterfalls in Laos, but on a much bigger scale. Then again, unlike in Laos, no swimming was allowed. (For those interested in such things, it is possible to hike in flip-flops if your feet are still too blistered from the prior hike to put on real shoes, but you may regret your decision when you stub your foot on a few sharp rocks).
After the lakes, we drove several hours to our next destination, Trogir, stopping for a quick lunch and some nice views along the way.
Trogir was also packed full of people, as we took the obligatory nightly stroll through the Old Town which, although tiny, had some happening nightlife and some nice little quiet spots.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 4, 2013 from Trogir, Croatia

Off Campus
Belmopan, Belize
Getting off the resort, as we did today, was marvelously refreshing for the spirit and the soul.
The main destination for the day was tubing at Crystal Cave near the Caves Branch River, but to get there we had to backtrack along the Western Highway, much of which we “missed,” having driven most of the way to Chaa Creek in darkness.
In daytime, it was a wonderful journey, particularly the stretch between San Ignacio and Belmopan, passing through towns with names like Blackman Eddy and Teakettle and Esperanza. It was the first day of the school year, and so children in their fresh, light blue uniforms dotted the highway, almost like ants in a chain. Roadside fruit stands were everywhere in evidence, and the Amish and Mennonite farmers were riding their horse-drawn carts from Spanish Lookout to town. Underneath the typical Belizean houses, made of wood and high off the ground, were laundry lines, horses, and old cars, while people congregated on the porches above.
Our driver for the day was a wonderful older man, a retired Justice of the Peace from Santa Elena. As we passed by his house, after crossing the small suspension bridge between San Ignacio and Santa Elena, he pointed with pride at his 1950 era Ford Falcon, which he had driven to the United States and back three times.
As we got closer to Jaguar Paw, the jumping off point for our cave explorations, the jungle got much denser, and what stood out the most for me was the amazing number of different flowers growing everywhere. Birds of Paradise, orchids, and every manner and color of blooms surrounded us. And where there wasn’t jungle, there were fields of corn and pineapples and teak trees, and pastures filled with Brahmin bulls, cows, horses, and chickens.
Arriving at Jaguar Paw, we met Rick, our guide for the cave exploration. A wet and sometimes treacherous path took us inside of the cave, and first we sat and listened to Rick tell us the history of Belize – not just modern Belize, and nor just Mayan Belize, but prehistoric Belize as well. Particularly engrossing was his story-telling of the British pirates, and the battles with the Spanish; sitting inside the cave, listening to him talk, was like being in a real life Pirates of the Caribbean ride.
And the cave was spectacular; the stalagmites and stalagtites were huge, and glittered from the quartz contained inside them. The water was crystal clear and cool, and everywhere our lights shown, were bats – thousands of bats hanging on the walls and the roof of the cave, flying overhead and swooping to catch a meal of the bugs attracted by our headlamps, and pouring in and out of small holes in caves. When we got off the tubes, we wandered for a bit, finding (like so many before us) fragments and pieces of Mayan pottery of different centuries.
After our cave experience, we had a late lunch at Jaguar Paw, and then headed back to Chaa Creek. Ellery slept much of the way, but I managed to wake her up to see my finds of the day … the first siting of a roseate spoonbill near Chaa Creek and, more importantly, the elusive toucan!
written by  shoshtrvls on August 24, 2009 from Belmopan, Belize
from the travel blog: Belize, Guatemala and Honduras (2009)

Day 4 -- Walking Around Town
Punda, Netherlands Antilles
We ventured across the bridge and walked around Punda, visiting the historic synagogue. Evening was spent at the RIF Fort.
written by on September 2, 2010 from Punda, Netherlands Antilles

France
Paris
written by  shoshtrvls on August 9, 1980 from Paris, France

Day 3 (continued) - Jesus Slept Here
Tiberias, Israel
From there is was a drive up the Golan Heights and around the Sea of Galilee to Tiberias.
At the hotel pool, Ellery made new friends (as she always does).
After a brief rest, we had dinner at a nice fish restaurant on the water and finished the day with a stroll on the small boardwalk.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 20, 2008 from Tiberias, Israel

Day 7 -- Budapest Arrival
Budapest, Hungary
Drive through Poland, Slovakia, Hungary. Beautiful mountains and countryside. Small villages, where everyone is walking to or from the same Church. Much more beautiful than the Czech countryside or even the part of Poland on the way to Krakow. Fighter jet overhead. Roadside restaurant. Walk to River. Sunset Danube Cruise.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 30, 2015 from Budapest, Hungary

Day 7 - Lake Iseo (Saturday)
Sarnico, Italy
Lunch in Modena
Cremona
Sarnico
Lake Iseo - hill drive
written by  shoshtrvls on June 25, 2016 from Sarnico, Italy

Day 5 - Vinales
Vinales, Cuba
Drive to the Viñales valley. Its landscape is interspersed with dramatic rocky outcrops. Lunch at Finca Agroecologica El Paraiso (farm-to-table). Amazing. Check in at casas particulares (private homes). Walk into Vinales and then horseback riding to a tobacco plantation. Dinner at family style. Evening music and dancing.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 13, 2017 from Vinales, Cuba

Day 7 -- Helsinki, One Last Time
Helsinki, Finland
A return to the market, and a good part of the day spent at the Allas Seapool and Sauna, overlooking the harbor.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 26, 2017 from Helsinki, Finland

Day 6 - Sepliok Orangutan Sanctuary
Sepilok, Malaysia
Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary, Borneo Sun Bear Conservation Centre
This morning take a private transfer to the Sepliok Orangutan Sanctuary (approximately 1 hour). The centre was set up to help re-introduce these wonderful creatures back into the wild after a life of domestication or having been orphaned. From the viewing platform, you can watch and photograph these charming creatures as they swing into view and eat the supplementary diet of bananas and milk that is laid out for them twice a day. Human contact must be kept to a minimum and it's essential that you follow the instructions of the park, as directed by your leader. Also included is a new nursery where you can view young orangutans as they learn how to climb on a specially constructed jungle gym. The viewing area is behind one-way glass so as to not disturb the animals. To see more of Borneo’s creatures there’s the option to visit the newly opened Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Center. Here rescued Sun Bears that have spent many years mistreated and locked away in cages are cared for, with hopes of rehabilitation and reintroduction into the wild. You will also visit the Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary, where you can watch up close the amazing bachelor proboscis lazing and feeding – an experience that can only be found in Borneo.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 23, 2018 from Sepilok, Malaysia

Day 7 - Manukan Island
Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia
Manukan Island, Cocktail Party on the Dock
Transfer to Sandakan Airport today for a flight to Kota Kinabalu. Keep in mind that the luggage allowance for this flight is only 15 kg of check in luggage and one cabin bag of 7kg and any excess baggage will incur a further charge paid direct to the airline. A short boat ride (around 20 minutes) takes you to Manukan Island, just off the coast of Kota Kinabalu. This is one of the larger Islands found in the Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine National Park. The first of two days on this Island will be free for you to explore the Island at your leisure – perhaps swimming or local activities. The 1.5-kilometre Beach is lovely to stroll along at low tide.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 24, 2018 from Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia

Day 6 - Las Terrazas
Visit Las Terrazas to learn about the environmental protection in this biosphere reserve. Sip a cup of coffee at Cafe de Maria. Visit three artists studios (Henry, Ariel, Lester). Lunch at Casa del Campesino. Continue the trip to the airport to board our flight home.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 6, 2017 from Havana, Cuba

Day 8 - Floating Piers (Sunday)
Sulzano, Italy
Floating Piers
Rest
written by  shoshtrvls on September 25, 2016 from Sulzano, Italy

Day 8 - Budapest
Budapest, Hungary
Jewish Quarter, Main Synagogue, St. Stephan church, opera House. Old City.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 31, 2015 from Budapest, Hungary

Hvar, Croatia
Seen one Dalamtian port town, seen them all. Today we saw three, starting with Bidding farewell to Trogir around 8:30 a.m., as the massive crowds were beginning to arrive. Scooted out of there just in time to get to Split for the car drop off. And while we had several hours to wander around, it was much too hot to do anything but take a simple stroll through the Old Town! Complete with Roman ruins and reenactments, and then wait in a shady cafe for our Ferry to Hvar.
Eventually we made it to Hvar, and our first upscale hotel of the trip, although it won't be winning any Conde Nast surveys, I'm afraid. But it has a beautiful location, a beautiful pool, and all the amenities. So, after a walk into the - where else - Old Town for an early dinner, we're spending the night in for a change, and looking forward to a solid night's sleep with no place to go and nothing to do in the a.m. We can do the "night thing" tomorrow night.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 5, 2013 from Hvar, Croatia

Day 8 -- A Day On The Lake
Inle Lake, Myanmar (Burma)
A day on the lake. We started, as we usually do, by visiting the local market. To get there we again crossed the hyacinth-dotted lake, passing by a number of local fisherman using the traditional cone-shaped nets, which are becoming more and more rare (or so says out guide). We eventually reached the small but interesting market. What separated it from the others that we've been to is that, in addition to the locals, several stalls were manned by Pa-Oh women, one of the local hill tribes. They dress in black, with orange or red head scarves, and their faces are rounder than those of the local population, a bit more tibetan, which is where the tribe originated. From where they live now, it is evidently a 4 hour journey to get to Inle. The market used to be a floating one, but it no longer is, which is a shame, because the floating markets I've seen before, in Thailand and Kashmir, were really beautiful affairs.
After the market we headed for In Dein, a village on the furthest end of the lake. This was really a fascinating site to walk through, with hundreds of old brick stupas and temples in various states of decay and reconstruction. Each temole almost felt like its own discovery, as you looked inside to see how much of the Buddha was left, and how much had crumbled or been overtaken by trees. As in Heho, many of the temples had old paintings on the walls inside. Interestingly, all of these figured, both the Buddhas and the drawings are all smiling, a trait of Shan buddhist images. Inle must have always been a happy place. At the top of the village was a large temple of little note, but clearly renovated.
Then it was back down to one of the villages, where we made a quick stop at the home of a family from a different hill tribe, whose name escapes me at the moment. But it is a tribe that stretches their necks with heavy metal coils, making the women into human giraffes. It was quite uncomfortable being there, both because of the strangeness of the neck brace, and because it was like looking at people in a zoo. But, they have chosen to come to Inle to do their weaving and show the visitors a bit of their lives, and evidently it is much preferable to the mountains from which many have been forced out and now live as refuges.
Then it was time for lunch at a restaurant overlooking the lake's main pagoda, Phaung Daw Oo, best known for the fact that it's five small Buddhas have been so covered in gold leif by worshippers that they are now merely blobs of gold. Evidently, these blobs of gold are taken out on a huge barge, not unlike the one we saw in Yangon, once a year for a major festival that involves boat races and boat parades.
Our final stop before returning to the hotel was to Nga Hpe Chaung Monastery. Known for some reason for its cats that jump through hoops, Ellery loved it because of the newborn kittens who took to her; I liked it because the Buddhas inside, as well as the decoration, was some of the most beautiful we've seen, very intricate and delicate, and adorned with glass and jewels.
After a brief break, Ellery and I took a brief walk to the village that sits about a mile inland from the hotel. It was a nice walk (did I mention that it's at least 29 degrees cooler here than anywhere else we've been) and we were able to stop in at what appeared to be one family's living complex. There was a fairly large area where corn was being grown and several buildings, each of which seemed to have its own purpose (kitchen, horse stable, trainers, etc.). The people were very friendly and invited us for tea. And they were fascinated by Ellery's braces; I think they didn't know if they were decorative or not, and as they spoke no English it took quite some time to explain what they were for.
So, tomorrow we leave Myanmar and head to Thailand. It's been a great trip so far, and a country I'm glad we came to see.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 26, 2012 from Inle Lake, Myanmar (Burma)

Did We Really Do All That?
Chicago, United States
A packed day, in every sense of the word. First, we had to pack – yes, the one place where I had planned to spend more than one night in a hotel room. Because when we arrived last night, they did not have a room with two double beds, resulting in very cramped quarters for the three of us. But we were promised a new, “upgraded” room for tonight, so we had to pack our bags and leave them with the bellman as we headed out for the day.
We walked down Michigan Avenue, stopping briefly for breakfast, then over the river, eventually arriving at Millennium Park, where we dutifully visited the Cloud Gate and the Pritzker Pavilion.
Then it was on to the main attraction of the day, the Art Institute. I had forgotten just how much amazing art is there. Trying to do it in a few hours is impossible, but try we did. We may even have succeeded (as long as you ignore the fact that we skipped everything but the highlights).
By the time we left the museum, somewhat after 1 p.m., life in the park and along Michigan Avenue was in full swing.
Jordan was dazed by it all, ready to pack her bags and move to Chicago. And I have to say, I don’t blame her. It was a beautiful Chicago day – sunny and bright, but not to hot. People were lively, musicians were everywhere, and everyone had a spring in their step. (By the way, have I mentioned that Jordan is a slow walker? She is, or maybe the Schillers are fast walkers).
Much as we wanted to saunter, there was no rest for the weary (which I was) because we had tickets for a 3 p.m. architectural boat tour. Unfortunately, our docent was less than thrilling, and the girls were bored by the narration, but as always, the amazing buildings of Chicago were enough to keep us going.
After such a busy day, then, it was nice to return to the hotel and find that, yes, they really did give us a nicer room. Not just two beds, but a mini-suite, which was a welcome respite before dinner and a movie. Yes, indeed, I had the poor judgment to schedule our vacation for the very same week that the last installment of the Harry Potter series was released. We couldn’t get tickets to see it last night, but I managed to get what I believe was the next best thing – tickets for tonight, so the girls can at least say that they saw the movie on the day it was released. (This seems to be important, but I know not why).
written by  shoshtrvls on July 15, 2011 from Chicago, United States

Pisac, Peru
OK, while I did spend the night in Cusco, I spent much of the day at the market in Pisac, which was fascinating. Also visited the Sacsayhuaman ruins.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 18, 1989 from Pisac, Peru

Puno, Peru
A day long train ride across the high Andean plains, arriving at Lake Titicaca. Stayed at the Hotel Sillustani.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 19, 1989 from Puno, Peru

Russia
Suzdal', Russia
Suzdal
written by  shoshtrvls on July 27, 1984 from Suzdal', Russia

Key West, United States
Ellery decided to stay on the ship and I wandered around Key West. It's a cute little place.
And in the typical small world of travel, there was an open air art show and I was immediately drawn to a particular artist -- one I had seen in Rittenhouse Square.
written by  shoshtrvls on February 24, 2008 from Key West, United States
from the travel blog: Western Caribbean (2008)

Netherlands
Amsterdam
written by  shoshtrvls on August 9, 1980 from Amsterdam, Netherlands

This is what one calls a wasted day. (This is being written on the train, hence the scrawl).
In the morning we were all bussed to Tierra de Fuego National Park. While the scenery was spectacular, no one was really in the mood for it. Additionally, the guides constant repeating of every word was annoying, to say the least. (I told Kyle we should tip her to shut up). Then we walked around Usuaia until lunch, a sad affair of fried fish and potatoes. Lunch was outdone only by the drary and endless 5 hour flight back to Buenos Aires. Moreover, our final dinner was a but of a let down -- Carole and Cory were about ready to fall into their plates. However, the food was marvelous and Bill generously picked up the tab.

Versailles, France
Day 5 was spent at Versailles, which netted just one photo by Ellery. But we had a great time both inside and out, exploring the huge gardens and lunching at the canal.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 23, 2003 from Versailles, France

Stellenbosch, South Africa
We then headed for Stellenbosch, where we rode horses at Spier and tasted wines at several vineyards.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 26, 2004 from Stellenbosch, South Africa

DAY 4
Healy, United States
Today the official "Princess" trip began, with a train ride up to Denali. In the afternoon we visited the Husky Homestead, Jeff King's musher camp. Although made for tourists, it was very interesting (Jeff King was actually there to give us the talk) and there were plenty of puppies to enjoy and dogs to see.
We stayed overnight at the Denali Princess Lodge.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 18, 2005 from Healy, United States

Fes, Morocco
The train from Tangiers to Fez took about 6-1/2 hours. While there were other budget travelers on the train, I did not meeet them. Instead, I med Mohammed (everyone here is named Mohammed). He apparently works as a machinest for the railway. In any event, he spoke good English. We discussed places to go, things to see, etc., and we shared a cab to a hotel he suggested - Mounia. New, nice downstairs, ok rooms, but no hot water (despite a red tap). Had a horrible dinner at the hotel and went to bed. (Mohammed offered me a spare room at his place, which I rejected).
written by  shoshtrvls on May 20, 1991 from Fes, Morocco

Oia, Greece
My body clearly knows that it is on vacation as I slept in again, this time almost to 10:00 a.m. Eventually I awoke and dressed, said my good-byes to Tammy and Fiona and headed into town.
After buying my ferry ticket to Iraklion, Crete and my plne ticket back to Athens, I proceeded to rent a scooter. An old scooter. A scooter with virtually no brakes. First I rode to one of the southern beaches -- Kamari -- only to discover that the beaches of Santorini pretty well stink -- black and pebbly with nothing romantic or isolated about it.
Turning around, I headed to Oia, the other main town in the island. The ride was a terrifying one -- the road hugged the mountainside and the cars barreled down and up, caring not at all if one lonely scooter got pushed off the side and into the mediterranean rocks far, far below. Anyway, but the time I got there, all I wanted to do was go home, which I promptly did.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 3, 1993 from Oia, Greece

Were we really in Spain this long? This may be the day that Ellery had a melt down at the zoo ... one of her very, very few temper tantrums. Ever.
written by  shoshtrvls on October 1, 2001 from Madrid, Spain

Time to go home.

Lisbon, Portugal
written by  shoshtrvls on April 5, 1995 from Lisbon, Portugal

A quick walk around Waikiki and we were off to the airport. The entire day was spent on the plane.

Tarlee, Australia
We left Adeleide around 9:30 or 10:00, with our first destination being Gawler on the lower Barossa Valley, a wine growing region. Instead of going directly into the Barossa Valley, we headed up highway 32 towards Tarlee.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 4, 1990 from Tarlee, Australia

Thimphu, Bhutan
Even though they had an American breakfast at the hotel, Ellery still insisted on eating just toast, butter and apples. I, on the other hand, ate cereal, eggs, toast with apple juice and coffee. We wandered a bit until Palden arrived promptly at 8:30.
Our first stop of the day was the National Memorial Chorten, building in memory of the Third King. Four stories tall and amazing statuary in the middle. Many pilgrims were circling the chorten and we spent a fair amount of time here.
(Notes: missing a site/sight -- Dechen Phadrang/neck cords??)
Then it was up to the remains of the zoo, which is now just a sanctuary for the Takin, the national animal, which appears to be a mix of goat and yak. Then we went up to the telecom tower for the view of Thimphu and the many, many prayer flags.
The drive down offered terrific views of the modern dzong and lead us to the Sangay Traditional Arts and Crafts School. We watched students learning a variety of crafts -- Ellery was most taken with the sculpting. Then to shopping and the Folk Heritage Museum -- a replica of a traditional farmhouse.
After lunch, Palden's wife took us shopping for a kira for Ellery, which she loves, and so do I. Then it was time for a small trek.
First we drove to our campsite along the Wang Chhu. Along the way we passed a rock with the largest painting of a buddha I think I've ever seen. Our campsite was just over the river from the road by way of an old covered bridge from the road. After tea, we hiked up a steep trail to the Cheri Goemba (monastery), where advanced monks now study. Imagine being in a Buddhist monastery in the Himalayan Mountains!
Our arrival at the Monastery was enhanced by seeing a barking deer, a mountain goat on the monastery tower and, best of all, several langurs (monkeys). We toured the temple, saw the monks at prayer and had tea, before heading back down.
A hearty river-side dinner capped off the day.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 23, 2006 from Thimphu, Bhutan

Istanbul, Turkey
This was a much more leisurely day. Our morning began lounging at the hotel pool which, like everything else in this hotel, looks out over the Bosphorus, actually seeming to be a part of it as the water runs from the upper pool to the lower pool and into the strait.[p>
The afternoon took us back to the old city, this time for a visit to Hagia Sophia, the most famous mosque in Turkey. To be honest, however, I'm not quite sure why. It is impressive in size to be sure, and the few remaining bits of mosaic on the walls in the upper galleries were splendid, but otherwise I found the building entirely forgettable. Of course, this could be in some measure due to the huge scaffolding that was present and obscuring the view of about half of the main dome but, truth be told, the other half of the dome didn't look all that exciting so I didn't feel really cheated.
From Hagia Sofia we made the long walk cross town to the Fatih Mosque. To get there we walked through some of the oldest parts of the city, including a trip past the fairly well-preserved remains of a Roman aqueduct. And because our walk took us away from the most frequently visited tourist sites, we found ourselves in the most conservative part of the city. So, while I wore a skirt the came down below my calves and a scarf on my head, the fact that the neckline of my dress was something other than a turtleneck attracted attention, making me a bit uncomfortable.
The approach to the Fatih Mosque is a lovely, tree-lined pathway, and the mosque itself has some impressive tilework. In the adjoining cemetery is a tomb which houses the body of a dead sultan's tomb, which was interesting enough.
After Fatih Mosque, we moved on to the largest mosque in Istanbul, Sultanahmet. Along the way we meandered up and down (Istanbul is rather hilly) small streets, each of which had a different specialty -- fabric shops all on one block, pots and pans on another, appliances on a third. This was clearly the area where the residents shopped, avoiding the overly touristic bazaars. The big mosque was, well, a big mosque with more and bigger tombs. 'Nuff said.
Next we visited Economou, the wharf area from which most of the ferries which travel across and up the Bosphorus depart, and where the spice, or Egyptian, market is located. Here there was lots of activity, more great views, interesting wandering. Of course, the day would not be complete without another trip back to the Grand Bazaar where, after a bit of haggling and lots of tea, Mark finally broke down and purchased what was to become the first carpet of the trip (a 6x9 silk number), as well as another miniature painting.
Dinner that evening was in Kumkapi, otherwise known as Istanbul's outdoor restaurant row. Walking down the street involves dodging the constant barrage of "Come and sit down?" and "Please look at the menu," so much so that one could literally lose their appetite trying to shake these guys off. As a result, Mark and I decided to sit at the first restaurant where we weren't assaulted which, to be honest, turned out to be a mistake, as the food was mediocre at best.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 4, 1996 from Istanbul, Turkey
from the travel blog: Turkey and Greece (1996)

Boring and Mundane, Punctuated By The Mighty
Sioux Falls, United States
A day of driving. Though cornfields. And more cornfields. Who knew there were so many cornfields in Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota and South Dakota? Congress, I guess. ADM, I guess. It’s a lot of corn out there. And wind farms, plenty of wind farms. Which at least answered a question from earlier in the trip as we passed several trucks hauling massive wing-like things that clearly were not airplane parts. Now we know what they are, at least. Despite the picturesque Andrew Wyeth-like farmhouses on hills, there’s really not much between Chicago and Sioux Falls. Jordan mostly slept; Ellery mostly read, and we managed to get through it no worse for wear.
There was one truly amazing site that we passed, though, and that’s the Mississippi River. It is really awe-inspiring coming upon it – it is huge, and I did not expect it go be so vast, and so populated with lush, green islands, Huck Finn’s Story notwithstanding. It is definitely a mighty River.
Unfortunately, Jordan was the only one able to get a shot of it, which doesn’t do it any justice. You see, we expected to be able to take photos at the Tourist Info Center just over the Minnesota Border but … thanks to the budget impass and MN government shut-down, all the rest areas in MN were closed.
Oh, one other unexpected adventure – the bottom of the car fell off! Well, almost off. Fortunately, we made it to Sioux Falls with a bit of assistance from some duct tape (the wonder invention), where a wonderful hotel clerk, seeing our bedraggled faces, gave us a beautiful room and directions to the Hertz car rental location where, after a few hours of exasperation while the girls went swimming at the hotel, I finally got a replacement vehicle.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 16, 2011 from Sioux Falls, United States

Palma, Costa Rica
Travel to The Springs Resort near La Fortuna. Hot springs. Relaxation.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 20, 2011 from Palma, Costa Rica

Kilkenny, Ireland
Instead, however, we took a trip to the medieval town of Kilkenny, with it's wonderfully restored castle and small streets and alleys.
written by on November 27, 2010 from Kilkenny, Ireland

Day 9 -- Thailand
Chiang Saen, Thailand
Leaving Inle, this is a leisurely travel day. We left the hotel a bit early so we could spend some time in Nyaung Shwe, the main town at the near side of the lake. Some last thoughts on Inle: I felt a bit like an intruder here. Although this is on the "tourist route," it is not like Bagan, where you come to see the pagodas and the stupas. Here, you come to see the daily life, and as a result you are imposing on it. And you can see it changing almost before your eyes, as old ways of doing things (fishing, market days, etc.) are becoming tourist spectacles, and not real life. People are still friendly and willing to show you their homes and their way of life, but soon I think there will be two lives here - one that caters to tourism and one that rejects the intrusion. It will be interesting to see how Inle adapts.
Anyway, back to Nyuang Shwe - next week there will be 4000 monks in town to take their exams, and the entire town is preparing for it. Everything is being cleaned and repaired, the dining halls are being prepared, and many traveling merchants and people have come from around the region to care for the monks while they are here. I'm sure it must be quite a sight, to see them all here at once.
Although not a market day, the market area in Nyuang Shwe is quite large, and there were still many stalls open and selling. Not as colorful as others we've seen, but more practical in some ways. There were a few stalls manned by women from the hills, Karen I believe, but most were hard goods stalls owned by locals. After walking around for a while, we headed back to Heho to catch our plane for Tachileik, in the golden triangle. Our guide and others seem quite surprised we would go this way. "No tourists go to the Golden Triangle.". Well, we shall see. Tourists - backpackers and groups - seem to be everywhere.
----
Pretty close. We were the only foreigners on the plane, and there were only a few backpackers to be seen in Tachileik, but then again, we only drove through quickly to get to the Thai border. Still, in many ways, Tachileik is a world away from the rest of Myanmar. It is a mountainous region and the fact that it is a border town gives it a very different feeling. People are dressed in western clothes, the cars are newer, the houses built of cinder block and concrete rather than thatch. And here the Thai baht is accepted more than the Myanmar kyat (about $15 dollars worth I'm now stuck with).
The border crossing was typical. A few stern looks, a few questions, our "special papers" (the ones that let us leave the country from somewhere other than where we arrived) scrutinized, and then a short walk across the river, where entry into Thailand was a similar process. After changing some money, we hit the road for the Golden Triangle, about 40 minutes away. I suspect that this town, which sits on the borders of Myanmar, Thailand, and Laos, has a real name but it isn't used. There are a few nice resorts here, they blend here, like in Bagan. Ours is a bit different; an older building (or so it seems) right on the Mekong River, turned into a stylish boutique, not unlike the old motels in Hollywood now chic hotels. We have a terrific view of both the huge (and I mean huge) Buddha that looks over the Golden Triangle, and of a large casino on the Laos side of the river.
Walking along the road back from our restaurant before the sidewalks roll up at 9pm, two pick up trucks with speakers in the back and flashy wheels drive by - this appears to be what passes for "cruising" here. And the song they're playing? "I've had the time of my life".
written by  shoshtrvls on June 27, 2012 from Chiang Saen, Thailand

Hvar, Croatia
Today was one of those do-almost-nothing days. The morning was spent poolside, doing nothing.
Then we walked into the Old Town and went sailing - kind of. The lack of wind resulted in most of the trip being under power, but we still took a nice spin around the nearby Pakleni Islands, dropping anchor twice for a brisk swim. Although we had snorkeling gear, this really isn't a snorkeling place - because it isn't hot all year (although it is burning hot now) there is no coral and, consequently, just a few boring fish. But the water is Crystal clear; you can easily see 15 feet down or more.
After, we had a nice dinner on the bay and then walked into town to see the nightlife - which is much younger, wilder and drunken than any of the other places we've been - a scene that I'm too old for and Ellery is thankfully too young for.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 6, 2013 from Hvar, Croatia

Day 4 - Where's My Red String Bracelet?
Zefat, Israel
It must be mentioned that we have hit Israel at a time between two religious holidays so the Ultra Orthodox are everywhere, particularly here in Galilee. While I don't mind it that much, it is driving Dafna crazy since we are often stuck in traffic. It has also caused us to begin our days very early in order to beat the crowds. This actually works quite well since the result is that we are back at the hotel early enough to relax at the pool for a few hours before dinner.
This morning we started out with a drive high into the mountains and along the Lebanese border. Although the haze spoiled much of the view, the amount of agriculture in such a high, dry and hot climate was striking.
Our first stop was Manara Cliff, a general all-purpose "adventure" center. There wasn't all that much "adventure" here but Ellery and I took the cable car up the mountain and then repelled down, an activity we hadn't done before. Ellery handled it like a pro. Me, not so much.
From there it was on to the Jordan River for a few hours of what might have been rafting if there was a bit more water but instead was a nice, relaxing float. The water was cool and Ellery ended up swimming most of the way
The last stop of the day was Zfat, the mystical town of Kabbalah and art. Ellery and I both loved this place for its many art galleries and Sephardic flair.
Then it was back to Tiberias and the swimming pool.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 21, 2008 from Zefat, Israel

Day 5, part 1 -- Sailing
Spanish Waters, Netherlands Antilles
Today was a sailboat ride to a few snorkeling sites, but starting with a sail around Spanish Waters.
written by on September 3, 2010 from Spanish Waters, Netherlands Antilles

La Lancha
El Remate, Guatemala
Awakening early, Ellery and I ventured out, with Chad and Henry, to do some bird watching. Alas, my lucky finds of yesterday were far more interesting than anything we spotted today. Still, it was a nice walk around Chaa Creek one final time.
Then, after breakfast, Ellery, William, and Henry did a treasure hunt through the nature preserve and while I did not accompany them, it was reported by Chad and Elizabeth that a good time was had by all.
With that, it was time for us to leave Chaa Creek. We took a cab to the Guatemala border, and easily negotiated both the border crossing and the money changing. We then hopped on a bus coming from San Ignacio and headed to Flores, populated by the usual assortment of travelers: a friendly Israeli couple (fatefully, Ellery was wearing her Hebrew SpongeBob tee shirt), a sullen Italian couple, and four somewhat confused Americans, along with several Guatemalans.
The scenery from the border to Ixlu, where we would be getting off, was far from the jungle I expected. Rather, it was mostly clear cut grazing pastures for the many cows, bulls, and horses we passed along the way (including one herd of cows that blocked the road for a short while). Most of the road was unpaved,which made for a dusty, bumpy trip – just the way I like it.
Getting off at Ixlu, in the middle of nowhere, gained us some respect from the other travelers on the bus, all of whom wanted to know what we knew. Of course, if I told them that we were headed to La Lancha, all of our “street cred” would have been lost, so I vaguely said that we were staying someplace closer to Tikal. Waiting at the bus stop were two drivers, one hoping to take someone to Tikal, and another hoping for a local fare. We, of course, were of the later variety and while I was tempted to walk down the road to El Remate and wait for a chicken bus or shared taxi to come by, I opted for the taxi to take us to the hotel.
La Lancha – rustic, serene, isolated, and empty. Except for the silent and somewhat sullen gay couple from Sydney, it’s just me and Els. But I should have expected it given that it is the rainy season and there are only ten cabanas here to begin with.
The rooms themselves almost hang on the side of the mountain leading to Lake Peten Itza, all with hammocks swaying on the porches and a beautiful view. There’s an open air lodge at the top, a very small swimming pool, and a very steep path down to the lake where there are some chaise lounges and canoes. (I can’t imagine that Francis Ford Coppola, who owns this place, has actually been here; at the very least, I can’t imagine that he has hiked up from the lake to the rooms).
We arrived around 2:30, had lunch, walked down to the lake and back, napped, read, and then I sat by the pool while Ellery swam. Then it was dinner. Despite the uninhabited nature of the resort, our path from the room to the lodge was lined with small luminarias placed there just at dusk by the nearly invisible staff, and the food was definitely wonderful. (At the same time, this attention to detail isn’t available 24/7; this is being posted a day late because by 8:30 p.m., the lodge was dark and hence no internet access).
With the exception of a trip to Tikal and maybe a horseback ride or two, I expect this action-packed routine to continue for the next two days. I may go crazy with boredom; we’ll see.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 25, 2009 from El Remate, Guatemala

Day 9 -- Buda
Budapest, Hungary
Buda castle area, church, walk to Rodas hamam. Dinner near hotel.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 1, 2015 from Budapest, Hungary

Day 9 - Trieste (Monday)
Trieste, Italy
Drive to Trieste
Wander
written by  shoshtrvls on June 27, 2016 from Trieste, Italy

Day 8 - Tunku Abdul National Marine Park
Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia
More Manukan Island, Snorkeling
Enjoy a snorkelling trip today, where an array of coral and brightly coloured marine life reveals itself, conditions depending. An optional scuba dive trip from Manukan Island is also on offer for those interested in a more immersive experience. If you are interested, let your leader know and it can be arranged. After snorkelling, the afternoon is yours to enjoy. Soak up the turquoise vistas for another few hours as you stroll or swim about in this gorgeous corner of the world.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 25, 2018 from Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia

Day 9 - Kota Kinabalu
Last Day in Borneo
Head back to Kota Kinabalu today by boat and minivan. This will take around 40 minutes. Optional activities include a visit the intriguing Mari Mari Cultural Village, nestled deep in the countryside. Here you will see how indigenous ethnic groups of Borneo used to live. Or a visit to the Sabah Museum to learn about Sabah’s past or do some last minute souvenir shopping at the Filipino market . Tonight, perhaps head out for a final meal with your group to celebrate your Borneo adventure.

Day 10 - Venice (Tuesday)
Venice, Italy
Drive to Venice
Wander
written by  shoshtrvls on June 28, 2016 from Venice, Italy

Day 10 -- Politics
Heviz, Hungary
Drive to Heviz, hang at the pool, walk around town.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 2, 2015 from Heviz, Hungary

Day 10 -- Up A Lazy River
Muang Pakbeng, Laos
It is almost noon, and we're comfortably motoring up the Mekong. I say comfortably, because our boat for this two day trip is quite large, made of beautiful wood, with modern cushioned seats for about 40 people. In the far back is a bar and the latrine. But there's no one to serve at the bar as we are only 6, the boatman and his wife, our guide Fun, me and Ellery, and a young girl we picked up at a checkpoint about an hour ago. I thought her joining us might provide some opportunity for talk, as she's about Ellery's age I suspect. Instead, she quietly climbed on the boat and went to the back and has been sitting there silently ever since. Indeed, the whole ride is quiet, just the hum of the boat engine and the water lapping against it as Ellery reads and our guide sleeps. (Funny, just as I write this, the boatman turns on some music, and then just as quickly turned it off).
Eric, the travel agent in the US, discouraged us from taking this boat trip, saying that the river isn't so interesting here and it's a long two days. That's probably true; every so often we see fishermen, villagers panning for gold, or kids playing on one of the sandy shoals, and we've passed one or two Wats, temples, overlooking the river, but there's really nothing but the spectacular views of the mountains. Still, I think it's a perfect interlude. The weather is nice, and it gives us time to relax and read, reflect and rest, after what now seems like the hustle of the last 9 days. Smelling the cool, lush odor of the jungle is intoxicating.
So, returning to this morning, not much of note happened. The usual wake up, shower, pack the bags, get in the car, head to yet another border. Here, on the Thai side of the river, there was a some hustle and bustle, as we had our pictures taken for the necessary Lao visas and were stamped out of Thailand. Then a very quick water taxi ride to the other side, to Laos, where government officials leisurely, almost defiantly, took their time in reviewing our papers and issuing our visas. A tuk tuk then took us to the boat jetty, and this is where we've been ever since.
----
Our first stop was a small village. It wasn't a long walk from the river to the village, but it was hidden behind the vegetation, and I realized that we've probably passed dozens of such villages without knowing it. Here, Fun explained, the people are "middle landers.". The government has moved them closer to the river, from the hills, apparently so that they can arrange schooling for the children and bring them electricity and other modern conveniences. I'm not sure I buy that excuse, but certainly the people don't appear to be suffering much from the move. The village was full of children of all kinds - human, chicks, piglets running everywhere, and laughing. There was a lot of laughter, as most of the adults were off working in the fields. The few we saw were either carrying children, sling-style, or older. The older women had tattoos, very intricate patterns, on their arms. Their language is kumao, similar to khemer. Houses are bamboo, built just a few feet high. The main house is one large open room with mats for sleeping, and the kitchen is separate. This village received electricity only last year, and just like that, every house now has a satellite dish and a tv.
The rest of the day was more of the same - slow, relaxing ride up the river. We arrived at the hotel overlooking the river around 4, and then walked down the main street of Pakbeng, a one-street town catering only to the backpackers who come this way. Guest houses and cafes offering cheap food and free wi-Fi, and stalls selling cheap Chinese toothpaste and clothing clearly left behind by backpackers who passed through. But as the commercial zone peters out, you see the other side of this town; trash and waste piled along the street, tiny children picking through it, broken plastic sandals and rags being sold. A very depressing reminder of what life is really like in a developing country.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 28, 2012 from Muang Pakbeng, Laos

Americana
Keystone, United States
Leaving Sioux Falls, South Dakota at first did not appear to be much different than Minnesota. Or Wisconsin. Or Illinois. To me, it was all one long bug-splattered highway ahead.
But very quickly, we realized that it wasn’t the same because, unlike those other states, South Dakota has … WALL DRUGSTORE! And not just Wall Drugstore, although that was the most ubiquitous of the road signs, but also Reptile World! 1880 Town! Old MacDonald’s Farm! Petrified Forest! In short, we had come upon a portion of I-90 that has more roadside attractions per square mile than any other place in the world, or so I’m guessing. And there’s a reason for that – the number of families doing this drive through South Dakota to Yellowstone as a summer roadtrip is astounding. From packed tiny Toyotas, to SUV’s, to pickups hauling airstreams, to truly massive tour buses, there are hundreds of them … thousands of them. And squished in between are bikers, many of them on their way to Sturgis. But, there’s a good reason they are all here. There’s amazing stuff here.
First, a brief turn-off in the middle of the Grasslands National Park. Who knew there was such a thing?
Then, not much further ahead, we got our first glimpse of a few bluffs, but there was no doubt that we were arriving at the Badlands. Another hour or so and there it was, the turn off for the Badlands National Park. And it was spectacular – first, from a distance, the wall of jagged mountains and then, closer and closer, until we were upon them.
The drive was spectacular, and we stopped a few places along the way, but not too often because we were driving through the hottest part of the country during one of the hottest heat waves ever.
Immediately after the Badlands we finally arrived … 250 miles of road signs couldn’t be wrong – Wall Drug! Free Ice Water! Lots of people! Many things to buy! OK, it was cheesy, but fun.
Motoring along, our next stop was Mt. Rushmore, which we reached around 4:00. It was still over 108 degrees out, so I confess, we didn’t take the interpretive walking tour, or ohh and ahh over it for long. Rather, we came, we saw, we ate ice cream, and we looked for a hotel in Keystone to spend the night.
But the day was not over yet. First a stroll around Keystone where we ran into the one person at the Hertz counter in Sioux Falls who stood up for me during my struggles, and then,after one of the worst meals I have ever had in my life (always beware of the buffet), at dusk we headed to Crazy Horse to see the monument that’s been more than 50 years in the making, and will most likely be another 100 before it is done. That was followed by a cheezy laser show which became absurd when it ended with Lee Greenwood's "Proud to Be An American" (somehow, I don't think the native americans would appreciate much of the lyrics) and a quick trip back by Rushmore to see it lit up at night.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 17, 2011 from Keystone, United States

Puno, Peru
This was a fascinating day, spent on Taquile Island. Very unique. Overnight at the Hotel Sillustani again.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 20, 1989 from Puno, Peru

Germany
Cologne, Germany
Cologne
written by  shoshtrvls on August 9, 1980 from Cologne, Germany

Russia
Moscow, Russia
Moscow
written by  shoshtrvls on July 30, 1984 from Moscow, Russia

Talkeetna, United States
Another train ride took us to Talkeetna, probably my favorite stop on the trip. A small town, geared for tourists but also very authentic in its own way.
I convinced Ellery to take a sightseeing plane around Mt. McKinley, which was really spectacular -- the pictures do not do it justice. That's too bad for Ellery, who missed the whole thing because she fell asleep on the plane!
From Talkeetna we returned to Anchorage for the evening.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 19, 2005 from Talkeetna, United States

Our last day in Paris took us to Montmartre where we began the day at Sacre Couer. As at Notre Dame, Ellery found plenty to see and draw before heading down to the Marche aux Puces.
After Montmartre, we paid a visit to the Picasso Museum and then made our way to the train station, saying au revoir to Paris ... for now.

Posadas, Argentina
A traveling day. Early in the morning I purchased my train ticket for Posadas then bid a fond farewell to most of the group as they were leaving for Miami at 9:00. I then walked up Calle Florida to the Plaza de Mayo -- typical in every way. Lunch was with Chris Downey, the NASA doctor, Kyle, Peggy and Judy.
Around 2 p.m. I headed for the train station. It was interesting to watch the scenery change, from suburbs to slums to beautiful ranches and polo fields. There were lots of birds to see, and I had the good fortune to be seated next to an extremely nice woman named Angela. Language was definitely a barrier but we both tried hard. She kindly pointed out sights to me, provided company during dinner and was, on the whole, a pleasant companion.
(I discovered that I lost my necklace).
written by  shoshtrvls on March 14, 1992 from Posadas, Argentina

Yep, according to our passports, we're still in Spain.
written by  shoshtrvls on October 2, 2001 from Madrid, Spain

Thira, Greece
The next several hours were spent wandering around Thira's pricey chops and sitting in one of the bars overlooking the cliffs. Eventually I succumbed to the lure of the greatly overpriced jewelry and spent $900 on a gold bracelet -- more than I will probably spend on this entire trip!
The bus ride to the new port was reminiscent of the ride from Macchu Picchu to the train station -- tight switchbacks so marrow I was sure that the bus wold miss one and plummet down the mountain. Needless to say, it didn't.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 3, 1993 from Thira, Greece

Azrou, Morocco
The next morning, I did myself proud. After flatly rejecting a "grand taxi" to Azrou for $300 dh, I made my way to the collective station and eventually was traveling to the souk in Azrou like a real Moroccan! Some of the passengers spoke moderate french -- sometimes I didn't understand and sometimes I just said so, because not all the comments were ... gentlemanly.
The ride took about 1-1/2 hours, through very pretty hillside areas and through two "new" towns, Immouzer (?) and Ifrane. Clearly these were for the wealthy to escape the city.
The souk at Azrou was very interesting, somewhat like a flea market, but with horses, mules, cows, sheep (lots of sheep), a magician, some circus games and plenty of chickens thrown in. I shared tea with a rug salesman who did not try to sell me anything and had lunch (bruchette in bread) with a french professor who kindly paid without telling me (and the stall owner kept his word). I'm not sure how this compared with Pisac, Peru. Surely the "crafts" were not there, but neither were the tourists. I probably could have gotten a good deal on a rug but didn't know or care enough.
Later, in the artisan's shop, I met a Moroccan, Samir, and his German wife, Heidi. We looked at the rug making and they offered me a ride back to Fes, which I jumped at.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 21, 1991 from Azrou, Morocco

Thimphu, Bhutan
In the morning, we trekked up another mountain to the Tango Monastery, which hugs the side of the mountain. Ellery was a trooper and her complaints were few as she searched for flowers, trees and other markers. The final path was lined with flags. We toured the temple, watched the monks rush in for studies and then returned to the campsite for lunch.
Then it was a wonderful, albeit muddy, two hour walk back to Thimphu, passing farmhouses, Tibetan villages, a painting school, and farmers bringing their crops (such as potatoes) to market. Although I didn't write much about it, it was fantastic -- beautiful, mystical.
Back in Thimphu I bought myself a half-kira and jacket, and then had dinner a the hotel. I spent much of the evening sitting outside, smoking and talking with the hotel manager -- the type of experiences I relish.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 24, 2006 from Thimphu, Bhutan

Auburn, Australia
(See Burra entry)
written by  shoshtrvls on April 4, 1990 from Auburn, Australia

Tokyo, Japan
Basically, just more traveling, although we did have a two-hour refueling stop in Tokyo, just enough time to go through customs and get our passports stamped. We did have some trouble getting back in as our boarding passes were not of the usual variety. But we got back on the plane in plenty of time and continued on to Hong Kong.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 5, 1987 from Tokyo, Japan

Beauty and Frustration
Gillette, United States
Well, the days and days of driving finally got to us. At least to me.
We started the morning with a spectacular drive through the Black Hills, which offered amazing views of Mt. Rushmore and the mountains. The smell of pine was overwhelming, and I loved every minute of it. But, it was a slow, winding road and much to my frustration, the girls showed little or no interest in any of it – Jordan was texting and Ellery was reading. There was dead silence in the car and the only time anyone spoke up it was to ask for something. My frustration started to build.
Jordan wanted to see one of the caves, so we headed out to Jewel Cave National Monument. And we decided to take the long way, the “wilderness loop” through Custer State Park. And, much to my surprise, we did see some bison, and some (not very) wild donkeys, and a few pronghorn sheep (or maybe they were antelope – they were in the distance).
But, it was a two lane road and we were stuck behind several cars who thought that driving 10 miles an hour was a good pace. It wasn’t for me. And Jordan refused to get out of the car when, for example, we stopped to pet the donkeys. For some reason, this really bothered me.
Still, we continued on to Jewel Cave where, much to my surprise, almost all of the decent tours were sold out several hours in advance. What we were left with was a short trip into just one cave, and even that required an hour and a half wait. Jordan wanted to wait for a longer tour, but I just didn’t have it in me.
After the cave, we hit the road again, back up through the Black Hills where the continuing beauty was completely lost on the girls.
Finally, we reached Wyoming, and our next destination – Devil’s Tower. What I thought would be a quick look and go turned into a really lovely mile walk around the base. Lovely, except Jordan surged ahead because she did not want to do the walk. Yes, we had each reached our breaking point at Devil’s Tower.
Things did not improve measurably after Devil’s Tower, except the scenery, which did take on that classic red rock look of Wyoming. But dinner at an Appleby’s was complete silence and when we did eventually settle in at a roadside motel, I told the girls that it we were going to put the day behind us and move on, and that tomorrow would be better. At least, I was hoping it would be, because we have two more weeks of this.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 18, 2011 from Gillette, United States

Port Laoise, Ireland
The trip back to Dublin took us to the Rock of Dunamase, the ruins of a Twelfth Century castle, that we climbed about for a while before returning to Dublin.
written by on November 27, 2010 from Port Laoise, Ireland

Palma, Costa Rica
Horseback riding. Mani-Pedi. Relaxation.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 21, 2011 from Palma, Costa Rica

Day 11 -- Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang, Laos
It's now midday, our second day on the boat, and we've just finished one of the most delicious meals ever. Potato soup, chicken and vegetables, glass noodles and pork. Fresh pineapple for desert. My only regret is that I can't eat more of it, or have it again. And we ate this feast, looking out on the banks of the river, watching water buffalo cool themselves in the water, and fishermen pulling in their nets. I think these may be the two most relaxing days of my life.
The morning passed eventfully, reading and every so often looking up to admire the beauty around us. We passed not much, a small hill tribe market, kids bathing in the river, a fast boat or two (or rather, they passed us). We made one stop, at a small village, where the boatman's wife bought two huge, still alive catfish for their dinner, and we took one three passengers - a young couple and their 2 year old daughter. At first, they didn't come on, Fun telling them (I assume) that we had paid for a private trip. But after assuring him, many times, that we welcomed their company, they came aboard. We took a private boat only because it isn't tourist season, and we didn't know if there would be a regular boat going when we needed to go. The solitude has been nice, but so are the new faces.
We're now about 1-1/2 hours from Pak-O caves, and from there only another hour to our destination, Luang Prabang. Too soon. I'll miss this boat.
------
So, Pak-O caves .. Um ... Lots of little Buddhas in two caves. Yeah. Glad we didn't take this as a day trip, although the walk to the upper cave was good exercise.
Luang Prabang so far seems like a nice town. We arrived, showered, put on some fresh(er) clothes, and headed for the night market, which takes over about 3 blocks of the main street each night. Tons of backpackers here - you could tell that a bus or boat just arrived, as the touts had divvied them up and were guiding them to various guest houses around town. We had dinner - fresh grilled chicken and noodles - from a stall in an alley, $2.50 fed both Els and I. Then we walked through the market; it's like a craft festival in any city in the US, but here you can get a silk scarf for $3.00, an embroidered bag for $2.00, or a dead cobra in a bottle for $1.00. We're here for 3 nights, and I expect that Ellery will still be begging me for one of those snakes until the moment our plane leaves.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 29, 2012 from Luang Prabang, Laos

Korcula, Croatia
Our last day in Hvar, and really, we had no problem leaving, Sitting by the pool is nice and all, but for how long? For us, today, it was all day, until it was time to catch the Ferry to Korcula.
Korcula is a very different place, thankfully. Smaller, quieter, more restful. Our sobe owners are a warm and wonderful couple, who welcomed us with wine and cheese and tons of suggestions and comfortable beds and lavender-scented sheets.
But we didn't just fall off to bed. First we did the nightly stroll. Here,the street musicians are back, instead of the loud DJs. There are more adults and children, and few 20-somethings. And there are quality shops and good art and good food. I like it here.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 7, 2013 from Korcula, Croatia

This Place Is In Ruins!
Tikal, Guatemala
This morning I awoke to the very eerie sounds of howler monkeys. Like something out of “Lost,” it’s a very strange sound. Alas, none were seen.
After breakfast, we headed out to the main attraction of this area of Guatemala, Tikal. Julio was our guide, and Juan our driver. Until this morning, I didn’t realize how far La Lancha is from everything – it is quite a ways down the road from the turn off at Ixlu; I’m not sure how I missed this yesterday. Along the way to Tikal, we passed through several small villages, and along the sides of the roads horses, cows, chickens and pigs.
Tikal consists of 5 main temples, several pyramids complexes and many other buildings. But you can’t see them all at once; you walk through shaded jungle paths and each plaza area is almost like a Surprise. The complex itself is huge and the buildings are imposing. We climbed several of the temples, include Temple 4, which provided a wonderful view of the other temples rising over the tropical forest below. Just as fascinating were the buildings that have not been excavated; some you would never know existed because the trees and the vegetation have completely covered them; others are visible only as a few stones in between monstrous tree trunks.
Almost as amazing is the wildlife in Tikal. We came upon spider monkeys swinging from tree to tree, a coatimundi, toucans and turkeys, and even an interesting little yellow caterpillar that even Julio had never seen before. And the trees – cedar and mahogany and red gumbo limbo, each one towering overhead and with roots so tangled and huge that they brought to mind a kind of medieval fantasy world; I almost expected Bilbo Baggins to pop up and join us.
And our weather luck continued, because it wasn’t until just as we finished lunch that the afternoon rains began, which meant that we had the afternoon to laze on our porch, take in the beauty of the lake, and relax. Which is, needless to say, killing me.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 26, 2009 from Tikal, Guatemala

Day 5, part 2 -- Snorkeling
Tugboat Wreck, Netherlands Antilles
Visiting two snorkeling site, the tugboat wreck being the second and the better of the two.
written by on September 3, 2010 from Tugboat Wreck, Netherlands Antilles

Day 5 - Caves and Crusades
'Akko, Israel
We started at the limestone caves at Rosh Hanikra on the Lebanese Border. Here we took a small cable car down the side of the cliffs to get to the caves, which were made amazingly colorful with mosses of all different kind, and beautiful blue water washing through. Watching the kayakers paddle through the rough waters made me miss my little kayak in the mountains.
Next it was on to the crusader city of Acco, which was also fascinating. The excavation and restoration work has really paid off here, as the entire city really does come alive as you walk through it. This is helped by the fact that there is a bustling old city around it, narrow walkways filled with shops and fish markets, as well as an active fishing port. (I honestly thought I took more pictures of historic Acco, but evidently I was too busy actually experiencing the city to photograph it).
written by  shoshtrvls on August 22, 2008 from 'Akko, Israel

Day 11 -- Relax
Heviz, Hungary
Spa, massage, pool.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 3, 2015 from Heviz, Hungary

Day 11 - Venice (Wednesday)
Venice, Italy
Venice
Wander
Jewish Exhibit
written by  shoshtrvls on June 29, 2016 from Venice, Italy

Day 10 - Seoul
Seoul, South Korea
Palaces, Museums, Temples, Shrines, Shopping
written by  shoshtrvls on August 27, 2018 from Seoul, South Korea

Day 11 - Seoul
Seoul, South Korea
More Palaces, Museums, Temples, Shrines, Shopping
written by  shoshtrvls on August 28, 2018 from Seoul, South Korea

Day 12 - Venice (Thursday)
Venice, Italy
Guggenheim
Basilica
written by  shoshtrvls on June 30, 2016 from Venice, Italy

Day 12 -- Interesting Stuff
Heviz, Hungary
Heviz lake, drive to Budapest, refugees at train station.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 3, 2015 from Heviz, Hungary

Korcula, Croatia
Today was a slow, lazy day around Korcula. A visit to the Marco Polo museum, a stroll around town, swimming on one side of the city, then on the other. Finally, we took in the traditional Moreska sword dancing show.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 8, 2013 from Korcula, Croatia

Day 12 -- Luang Prabang Redux
Luang Prabang, Laos
Wherein my zest for journaling starts its slow retreat.
Today we were up before dawn, literally, to watch the procession of the monks. In most other places, the monks make their daily rounds collecting alms in small groups, or even alone, but here, they do it in a long procession, monastery after monastery. So, at 5:30 a.m., we were standing on the street, watching young boys, twenty-something's, and old men, all draped in yellow and gold, walking down the main road in Luang Prabang, carrying their bowls, accepting rice from the residents, as well as the women who had come to sell rice to others to give to the monks.
From there, we walked through the local market, where everything from chicken to fish to rats are sold as food, and eventually back to our hotel to catch another hour or so of sleep before breakfast and a morning of sightseeing.
The sightseeing was just that - a royal palace (most of it closed for the day due to a visit by the Japanese crown prince), a Wat, a museum of ethnology, another Wat, and so on. We saw Wat Xieng Thong, and Wat Mai, and ... Well, I stopped getting the names after that. Although the temples here are quite different from those in Myanmar, they are almost exactly like those in Thailand and, to be honest, not that grand. One had beautiful mosaics, another decorated ceilings, but all in all, nothing to knock your socks off. But Fun, who was a monk for 8 years, was a good guide, and took time to explain a lot about Buddhism and what we were seeing. But by noon, we had run out of sights (opting out of the "factory tours"), and let Fun return home to celebrate his sons seventh birthday.
Ellery and I then spent the next hour or so in a coffee house that seemed to have more Americans floating in and out than your average NYC Starbucks. And I watched as the backpackers do what they do - greeting someone that they may have met just the day before on the bus from Vientaine, or maybe three weeks ago in Bangkok, as an old friend; listening to someone else explain where to get the cheapest meal as if that person had been in Luang Prabang for months, when in fact they arrived just a day earlier; and swapping stories of where to go and how to get there. Part of me wanted to join in the conversation, until I remembered that I was 50 years old and spending more money on one night in my hotel than they will spend for food and lodging in a month. I envied them, and I didn't. I envied the feeling of community among them, believing themselves to be just a tiny cadre of wanderers who will learn all there is to know about the world in three or six short months on the road. But I also know that they will all soon enough hunker down and become lawyers and accountants and things far less romantic that backpackers, and that eventually they, like me, will come to appreciate a comfortable, non-lice infested bed and a hot shower. And be disappointed if the hotel of choice isn't just perfect.
And, while we're talking hot, it's damn hot here. Hotter than anywhere else we've been, which is why Ellery and I spent the rest of the afternoon at the hotel pool (and yes, dear backpackers, having a hotel pool is better than taking a tuk-tuk to a tiny water hole outside of town which isn't nearly as clean or as pretty as you were told, but that you, too , will recommend to other backpackers you meet). At the pool, we were joined by an American from California, who couldn't help but tell us about the Thai wife he was planning to divorce, the house near Santa Barbara he was selling, and all other manner of personal trivia. The guy was, to put it simply, dying to talk to someone, even though he had come to Laos -- his "happy place" he said -- to sort things out in solitude. The other end of the backpacker spectrum, the middle aged adult who travels to escape the concerns and responsibilities that the backpackers haven't a clue about.
A strong late afternoon rain forced us into the room for a bit, until we headed out for the evening. Another fine $3.00 meal in the small alley off of the night market (where now I was directing the newly-arrived to the best 10,000 kip buffet) and then a performance of the Royal Ballet of Laos. At least, that's how they were billed, but this was clearly not the A, or even the B, team. I've seen step classes at Bally's fitness who were more in sync. As with the puppet show, the audience was small and all foreign, and so we were all there just for a bit of cultural education. And what I learned is this: traditional Laotian dance is slow. really, really slow. So there is art to it, moving your body so slowly (think tai chi with music), but it did not leave me wanting more.
The night ended with Els and I walking back to the hotel, talking about communism, the supreme court, and Israel. And to describe how we hit on all those topics, and more, would be impossible.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 30, 2012 from Luang Prabang, Laos

It's Getting Better
Wapiti, United States
Both the weather and the tension finally broke. Although this was basically just another day of driving, it was through some of the most beautiful country I’ve seen. And, even better, the girls were slightly more animated, making it a pleasant day overall. (Very few pictures were taken, for a variety of reasons, most notably the fact that I didn't bring the good camera and I'm a horrible landscape photographer).
The road from Gillette to Cody, while mostly boring highway, crossed through Bighorn National Forest. We spotted our first (and possibly last) moose, but for the most part the beauty was in the scenery, ranging from rugged mountains still covered in snow in mid-July to massive fields of wildflowers. The highest pass is nearly 10,000 ft., and you can really feel the altitude. And, most remarkably, there were cyclists – dozens of them – making their way through the mountains with us. Really, I can’t imagine anything more insane (yes, I’m talking to you Michael and Kevin).
We made it to Cody around 2 p.m., had lunch at a local diner, then found our way to our home for the next four nights, the Rand Creek Ranch. The scenery along the way was even better, if that was possible, as we crossed over the Buffalo Bill damn and into what is known as "the fifty most beautiful Miles in America."
The girls immediately found their way to the stables and went for an hour trail ride as I relaxed from a week of driving, and made onward plans (Jackson Hole – in; Santa Fe – out). Then it was back to Cody for dinner at Bubba’s Bar-B-Que (where none of us had bar-b-que) and a wind storm that came from nowhere and disappeared the same way. Then a bit of time was spent at the campfire before we settled in for the night.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 19, 2011 from Wapiti, United States

Iquitos, Peru
The final leg of my journey takes me to Iquitos, in the heart of the Amazon. Overnight is at the Hotel Turista. (Really, can't get a better name than that, can you?)
written by  shoshtrvls on June 21, 1989 from Iquitos, Peru

Iquitos, Peru
Off to an Amazon camp a bit up the river. A big disappointment.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 22, 1989 from Iquitos, Peru

France
Paris
written by  shoshtrvls on July 31, 1984 from Paris, France

OK, we didn't really get to Havana, but passed by on our way to Grand Cayman.
Tonight's dinner was formal night.
written by  shoshtrvls on February 25, 2008 from Havana, Cuba

Germany
Heidelberg, Germany
Heidelberg
written by  shoshtrvls on August 9, 1980 from Heidelberg, Germany

Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
We arrived in Posadas about 9:30 a.m. in torrential rain. Angela kindly guided me to the city bus which took me to the main terminal. Because of the rain and my extremely poor Spanish, I could not figure out a way to stop at the Jesuit ruins in San Ignacio Mini before going on to Iguazu, so I bought a ticket for the next "rapido" bus to Iguazu.
This gave me about two hours to spare (during which time I probably could have hired a taxi to take me to the ruins) and in the rain there really wasn't anything I could do but hang around the bus station. Admittedly, however, for the first time this trip I really began to feel like a traveler. There were no other tourists on the train (or at least not in Pullman class) or on the bus.
The bus traveled through mostly rainforest area and I quickly realized why we are losing so much rainforest -- every couple of Miles was a logging company. I've never seen anything quite like it. Each enterprise seemed small, but taken together it is clear that the impact is tremendous. There was some attempt at reforestation, although ti seems that those little trees will take forever to grow.
Also along the way we stopped in several small towns. They all seemed clean and some had very nice homes -- quite a contrast to the one room wooden shacks we passed in both the train and along the main road.
The bus arrived in Puerto Iguazu around 5:30, an hour later than I expected. I checked into a cute hosteleria near the bus station, showered, and trapsed into town
Being Sunday evening, the town was dead; being a tourist destination, the tourist office was open. So in I went, for 5 - 10 minutes of essentially useless information. So now I am sitting in a cafe in the center of town watchign it wake up for dinner.
As I walked further on, I met up with a fellow Lonely Planet traveler -- Matthew from Australia. We shared a pizza and conversation and agreed to meet the next day to explore the Brazilian side of the falls.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 15, 1992 from Puerto Iguazu, Argentina

Brussels, Belgium
We took the train to Brussels, but didn't spend any time here, because we were off to our next stop.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 25, 2003 from Brussels, Belgium

Whittier, United States
In the morning we headed for the departure point for the cruise, Whittier, passing a Glacier or two along the way.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 20, 2005 from Whittier, United States

Richards Bay, South Africa
We flew from Capetown to, I believe, Durban, and were picked up and taken on a very long drive to our game reserve, Zulu Nyala. Not fancy, but very comfortable and homey.
Our guide for the week was Penn, a true Zulu native, and the only such guide at the reserve. We couldn't have been luckier.
Coming into the reserve, and on our first game drives, we caught sight of Nyala, warthogs, Zebras, giraffes and various antelope.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 27, 2004 from Richards Bay, South Africa

Fes, Morocco
Samir and Heidi definitely took me under their wing.
First we stopped for lunch at Immouzer. Then it was tea at their Uncle's house just outside the old city. Then it was to the museum to see carpets, but also nice silver and gardens. We then drove to an overlook for a magnificent view of the city before parking the car and winding our way through the Medina. (Main gate) Along the way I learned an important lesson about Moroccan men -- they don't care if the women wait. Thus, Samir spent much time stopping at shops and chit-chatting with friends.
Eventually though, we came to the house -- a door opened into a tiled courtyard. The house had 3 floors, the bottom appeared to have sleeping rooms and the kitchen, bath, etc. The next had the same. The third had a sitting room where we drank coke and talked, before going to the roof with a wonderous view of the city. Eventually, a little brother took me back to a taxi stand.
Waiting for me (1 hour early) at the hotel was Mohammed. I showered and changed and then we left. His house was quite a distance, at the very edge of the new city. Everyone was friendly but no one spoke English or French -- for 1-1/2 hours I just sat there while Mohammed helped his brother with his homework.
At about 9:30, his mother brought out some good soup. His sister and I finally spoke some, and eventually he took me home, giving me shopping advice along the way. Unfortunately a boring end to an otherwise great day.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 21, 1991 from Fes, Morocco

Irakleion, Greece
The catamaran ride was uneventful and I slept through some of it. In Irakleion I found an acceptable but expensive ($25) hotel, wandered around a bit, had a not-very-good meal and eventually went to sleep.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 3, 1993 from Irakleion, Greece

OK, now we're on our way home.
written by  shoshtrvls on October 3, 2001 from Madrid, Spain

Day 5 (cont.)
Barcelos, Portugal
A memorable train ride to Barcelos.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 5, 1995 from Barcelos, Portugal

Day 5 (cont.)
Kowloon, Hong Kong
After arrival, we promptly got our bags, passed through customs, checked into our hotel (The New World), showered and fell asleep. (new hotel, tiny rooms).
written by  shoshtrvls on August 5, 1987 from Kowloon, Hong Kong

Mintaro, Australia
(see Burra entry)
written by  shoshtrvls on April 4, 1990 from Mintaro, Australia

We spent the first hour of the morning (after Ellery finished throwing up@@) at the weekend market in Thimphu. Piles and piles of vegetables, fruits, and spices were offered fro sale, and we ended up buying some bananas for our drive. Then we crossed the bridge to the handicrafts market and shopped. We bought many smaller items as gifts, a few things for Ellery to take to school, and two expensive pieces -- a Tibetan prayer book and a beautiful dagger.

Our final morning in Istanbul was spent touring the Dolmabahce Palace, which was just down the road from our hotel. Also an old Ottoman palace, this place was spectacular, by far the most beautiful and impressive sight we had seen thus far into the trip. Room after room was decorated with Baccarat crystal chandeliers, Limoges fireplaces and incredible painted ceilings. The gardens were also spectacular and proved to be a wonderful place to wander and relax.
Unfortunately, we couldn't relax for too long as we had a bus to catch to our next destination, the town of Bursa, a capital of the Ottoman Empire.

A Most Excellent Day - Part One
Yellowstone National Park, United States
If things “broke” yesterday, today they sprang forward. I guess I forgot about moody periods and how they can end as quickly as they approach, but today Jordan, and as a result Ellery, were almost giddy, something that had not yet happened on this trip. Jordan, unlike Ellery, is not a talker, not a hugger, and rarely even a smiler, even if she’s enjoying herself. But today, she seemed to come into her own, and a whole new person developed. Even as I type this, at almost eleven in the evening, Ellery, Jordan and two friends they have made here at the Ranch, are off somewhere in the darkness, laughing and having fun.
So today, we finally made it to Yellowstone. What an incredible place. I’m not sure, overall, the beauty exceeds what we’ve seen so far on this trip, but the sheer number of sights and views and wildlife is incredible. It can take over an hour to go 10 miles, because every few miles there’s something to pull off the road to see, whether it is a herd of bison or a bubbling cauldron or a raging waterfall (or two or five or ten). After a while, there’s so much of it, there’s no more pictures you can take, you just have to take it all in.
The thirty mile drive to the park entrance is as majestic as the 22 miles from Cody, jagged rocky peak after peak. Then, once inside the park, it is a winding road along Yellowstone Lake to the first major intersection, at Fishing Bridge. There we stopped to buy sweatshirts as it was below 60 degrees (and to think we were in 110 degree heat just two days ago) and to buy provisions for lunch.
From there, we decided to head north to Mammoth Hot Springs, but there was so much to see along the way. First, it was two Elk just off to the side of the road; we probably should have stopped to take a closer look but instead we pressed onward, hoping it wouldn’t be our only sighting of the day. Just a bit further, we spotted our first bison up close, just two of them, waiting for us – and for the dozens of other cars pulled off to the side of the road.
And not much longer after that, an entire herd of bison, grazing along the Yellowstone River. OK, bison. Check. And this wasn’t the last herd, but as one of the kids staying at the ranch said last night at the campfire, “At this point, a bison would have to be doing a cartwheel for me to stop and take a picture of it.” They are ubiquitous. And getting stuck in the pile up of cars that slow and pull off to the side of the road at every sighting gets very old, very fast.
Our first side trip out of the car was to see the mud volcanos. Yep, mud. Yep, they bubble. Yep, they stink of sulphur. But they’re still fascinating to see from the raised wooden walkways that wind through them.
Just a little further along, near Otter Creek, we stopped for our picnic lunch. Very lovely setting, but we were clearly outgunned. We had some bread, peanut butter, and chips. Other families had prepared a bit better, with coolers and salads and feasts fit for kings (or a family of six living out of a camper for 2 weeks).
We continued along to Canyon Village, through Hayden Valley, where every guide book assured us was prime wildlife viewing. Um, no. Beautiful rolling hills and valleys of purple and pink and yellow wildflowers, but no wildlife to speak of.
After Canyon Village we pushed north toward Roosevelt, through Dunraven Pass (which still had a fair amount of snow on it) and past Mt. Washburn. We declined to hike up to the peak, at 10,250 ft., admitting to ourselves that we might just be the laziest visitors ever to make it to Yosemite. But, just before arriving at Roosevelt, we came to Tower Falls and did some hiking along the path down to (and up from) the lower falls. The upper falls could be seen crashing down in the distance; the lower falls were crashing down directly below us. The walk was well worth it.
From here we also had remarkable views of the Yellowstone River and the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone.
Well, our day was barely half over … but now, I’ve got to get some rest. July 20 will be continued ….
written by  shoshtrvls on July 20, 2011 from Yellowstone National Park, United States

La Fortuna, Costa Rica
Ellery went horseback riding. Trip into town.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 22, 2011 from La Fortuna, Costa Rica

As we had an early flight home on Sunday morning, we finished the trip with a relaxing evening in the hotel, watching the snow continue to fall.

Day 13 -- How To Bathe An Elephant
Luang Prabang, Laos
Into every vacation a little rain must fall, or a lot.
All last night it poured. The monsoon has finally come in earnest, and soon the Mekong and its tributaries will rise 10 - 20 feet. Throughout our journeys, we've seen the high water marks on rocks and vegetation and footpaths, but it was inconceivable to me that the water could regularly reach that high. No more, now I understand.
Still, luck remains with us. Today was our day with the elephants, and I feared that we'd have to cancel, or that it would be so wet as to make the trip miserable and pointless. But the rain slowed enough that we took a chance, and what a good chance it was. The elephant camp is high in the mountains, and as the car climbed the muddy dirt roads, past pineapple and teak plantations, we rose above the clouds so that by the time we arrived, the sun was shining.
Our day at the camp had several parts to it. First, Ellery and I learned how to ride on the elephant's neck, and how to command it with out feet and a few Lao words. Then it was off on a one hour trail ride; unsure of my balance on the lumbering but beautiful animal, I opted, for the most part, for the comfy cushioned seat, while Ellery stayed on the neck. When we reached the river, riding the elephants down the middle of it, I hopped down onto the neck for a bit, and loved every minute of it.
With the trail ride over, we took a short boat ride to some nearby waterfalls, but as the rains had just begun, they were pretty dry and not really worth the trip. We then had our usual lunch - rice and chicken curry, followed by pineapple for desert, before it was time for the best part of the day. Ellery and I each mounted our own elephant and took them back into the river for their bath. Once in the middle of the river, the elephants laid down, and with hard bristle brushes, we scrubbed their heads, ears, and back. Ellery's elephant was so delighted she trumpeted with joy, while mine used her trunk to shower me with water. I really didn't expect to have so much fun with these elephants - I expected something much cheesier, and I'm glad it wasn't.
After the bathing, I showered and swam in a beautiful little swimming pool overlooking the river, while Ellery read - something she's been doing constantly throughout the trip.
Returning to town, where it had clearly been raining most of the day but for the moment was dry, we stopped at one last temple, covered in brightly painted murals and friezes, and then walked back to our hotel. Changing into our bathing suits, it was less than 15 minutes out by the pool before the rain started again, heavier than before. So now we are ensconced in our room, listening to the rain, wondering what we will do for dinner, and whether tomorrow's trip to a larger, evidently more beautiful (and wet) waterfall will actually take place. But so far, the weather gods have been good to us, and I'm hoping our luck hasn't yet run out.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 1, 2012 from Luang Prabang, Laos

Day 5 (continued) - Shabbat At The Western Wall
Haifa, Israel
Then it was back to Jerusalem along the coast, with a quick stop in Haifa at the Baha'i Gardens and a drive through Tel Aviv.
We made it back well before sundown (Dafna’s fears of traffic were for naught) so after an hour or so at the very crowded hotel pool, Ellery and I changed and headed to the old city and the Western Wall. I really wanted to have an “experience,” to feel something, whatever it is people keep telling me I should feel in Israel. But the bottom line is – nothing. I watched what was going on with the same interest as I watched observances in other countries and I was not moved. Alas.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 22, 2008 from Haifa, Israel

Day 5, part 3 -- Curacao North Sea Jazz Festival
World Trade Center, Netherlands Antilles
A great evening of music -- George Benson, Luis Enrique, and Lionel Richie
written by on September 3, 2010 from World Trade Center, Netherlands Antilles

Zip!
Tikal, Guatemala
Today was another adventure – this time to Ixpanpajul and Flores, a small town on the other side of the lake.
The drive to Ixpanpajul passed through much of the same territory as before, but after the turn off at Ixlu, there was a decidedly different atmosphere along the road. Many small guest houses, hostels and roadside restaurants lined the road; people moved with some sense of purpose, whether it was on foot, on horseback, or on truck. And churches … every few kilometers there was a simple, stucco church. The lake side was thick with marshes, crude wooden docks jutting into the blue lake, and horses grazing in the small grassy areas between the road and the water.
Eventually we reached Santa Elena, a standard-issue concrete commercial center with all the usual trappings, including a small airport, a Burger King and a Pizza Hut. However, just 5 miles away was Ixpanpajul, a private jungle reserve where one can ride horses, walk along a skyway, hike, or do as Ellery and I did -- tour the jungle canopy by zip line. Although only a fairly small track of 6 lines, it was tremendous fun and quite different from our South Africa experience. Ellery even did 2 of the lines on her own, without anyone helping her. Ixpanpajul also brought us another crocodile (I’m sure that, like the crocodiles in Tikal, these are imported for the tourists) sighting and a few more exotic birds that we hadn’t seen before.
We then headed to Flores for lunch. While it is touted as a “quaint colonial town” on an island in the lake, quiet doesn’t begin to describe Flores. It’s dead; almost all the shops were closed, and there were more people working on the roads than anything else. But we had a nice lunch at a restaurant overlooking the lake and then took a leisurely boat ride around the lake.
We returned to La Lancha to swim and relax (some more), again just before the afternoon rains, and settle in for our final night. Tomorrow, we leave at 4:30 a.m. to catch the 6 a.m. bus to Coban, spending a night there, and then making our way to Chichicastenango by Saturday night so as not to miss the “not to be missed” Sunday market.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 27, 2009 from Tikal, Guatemala

Day 12 -- Home

Day 13 - Home (Friday)

Day 12 - Seoul
Seoul, South Korea
Freedom Bridge, Dora Observatory, aborted DMZ Tour
written by  shoshtrvls on August 29, 2018 from Seoul, South Korea

Day 15 - The End
Dubrovnik, Croatia
Our last day was,as intended, pretty devoid of anything substantial. Laid out by the pool. Went parasailing. Walked the Old Town for dinner and souvenir shopping. And that's all she wrote.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 11, 2013 from Dubrovnik, Croatia

Day 13 - The Countryside
Historic city of Gyeongju

Day 14 -- Vientiane
Vientiane, Laos
Dear Backpackers. I apologize. Your waterfall swimming hole is far, far superior to my hotel pool. Really. Please ignore everything I said on Day 12.
But first, catching up on last night, the rain did break for a bit, so Ellery and I hurried to Joma (our Starbucks-like hang out) for a light dinner and one last shopping trip to the night market.
This morning we lazed around the hotel until about 10, when Fhun picked us up for our last day here,taking us to Kuang Si Waterfalls. It was a out 40 minutes out of town, and I fully expected it to be like yesterday's waterfalls, but since we had run out of temples to see, it was really the only alternative. It was the opposite way out of town from yesterday, but the scenery was pretty much the same - people working in the rice patties, water buffalo along the side of the road, and small villages along the way.
Arriving at the waterfalls, we first walked through a small bear rescue center. Ok,bears. Next.
Well, next was really the most delightful series of waterfalls and swimming areas I've seen in ... well, ever, culminating in a large waterfall at the top. We spent several hours here, just hanging out, swimming, and hiking a bit. Little by little, the backpackers joined us, until e pools were like one big international party. I really enjoyed this day, and it was exactly what I needed as I was just beginning to yearn for home.
After the waterfalls it was back into town for a shower and a little rest before heading to the airport for our flight to Vietienne. Arrival was fine, and once checked into the hotel, we strolled outside, finding out way to a nice little food stall for dinner and a walk through the night market along the Mekong. Here, the night market is quite different than in Luang Prabang - mostly tee shirts and consumer goods, but patronized mostly by young Laotians. (Really, you'd never guess this was a Communist country). Lots of kids every where (this country is full of kids), music playing, even a little pushcart bar. I don't know what this. It's looks like in the daytime, but at night, it is far from the crowded decaying urban center I expected.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 2, 2012 from Vientiane, Laos

Dubrovnik, Croatia
Today we left Korcula, first by water taxi, and then a two-hour spectacular drive along the coast to reach our final destination, Dubrovnik, and our nicest hotel. Arriving around 1 pm, we were met by Antonia, our JayWay representative, who was just as lovely in person as on the phone. We hung inside our (viewless) room for a bit, then the seaside "beach" area for linch and a swim, before walking into the Old Town, arriving just in time to take an early evening stroll along the town wall. And it was beautiful and enchanting, as we were told it would be.
Then it was time for a dinner stroll through the Old Town, teeming with people and restaurants and life. A very nice evening.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 9, 2013 from Dubrovnik, Croatia

Wait, There's More!
Yellowstone National Park, United States
So, when we last left off, we said farewell to the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone and continued North. As we drew close to Mammoth Hot Springs we came upon our next wildlife sighting – a herd of female and young elk in a clearing off the side of the road. We got as close as we dared – close enough for the elk to look at us, but far enough so that they didn’t seem to care much.
After this Wilderness adventure, we finally made it to Mammoth Hot Springs. Interesting enough – several levels of pools of water, creating a Terrace effect.
We also stopped at the service area at Mammoth Springs for ice cream, a nice diversion. Mammoth Springs was definitely the nicest tourist area in the park that we had seen to date. And, it was only 2 Miles from the Montana border, so a quite side trip was definitely in order.
From there it was down to the Norris Geyser Basin, a large grouping of steaming hot pools which evidently erupt every so often – like every five years or so for the largest of them. Definitely an interesting sight, and a teaser for tomorrow’s trip to Old Faithful.
It had been a long day, and we were ready for home. Driving back was much quicker – no need to stop for those pesky buffalo or elk sightings. And, unlike literally dozens of photographers, we were not on dusk grizzly bear watch.
We arrived back just as the nightly campfire was taking shape. Wisely, earlier in the day we had purchased all the makings for s’mores, so that’s what the girls, along with their new friends before heading off to play somewhere in the dark before we all collapsed in bed around midnight.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 20, 2011 from Yellowstone National Park, United States

Los Angeles, United States
OK, this wasn't really a vacation day, but the process of getting from Iquitos to Lima to home was pretty amazing as it involved a missed flight from Iquitos, a mad dash across the tarmac in Lima, and an angry mob pissed that their plane back to the states was delayed by some Young backpacker (um, me).
written by  shoshtrvls on June 24, 1989 from Los Angeles, United States

Iquitos, Peru
My last day of vacation, spent at the Amazon Camp.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 23, 1989 from Iquitos, Peru

Switzerland
Lucerne, Switzerland
Lucerne
written by  shoshtrvls on August 9, 1980 from Lucerne, Switzerland

France
Paris
written by  shoshtrvls on August 4, 1984 from Paris, France

Hluhluwe, South Africa
Our last day at Zulu Nyala.
A quick morning tour nabbed up some final shots and viewings of the hippos and rhinos, including the baby. Then it was time to say good-bye to Penn and begin the trip to Johannesburg.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 2, 2004 from Hluhluwe, South Africa

Skagway, United States
Our first port was Skagway.
Ellery found salmon swimming upstream.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 23, 2005 from Skagway, United States

Brugge, Belgium
Another train ride later, and we found ourselves in the wonderful little town of Brugges. We walked around a bit and had dinner before calling it a day.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 25, 2003 from Brugge, Belgium

Barcelos, Portugal
Leaving Barcelos for ...
written by  shoshtrvls on April 6, 1995 from Barcelos, Portugal

Irakleion, Greece
Again I slept in, this time to 9 a.m. Anxious to get out of my not very comfortable hotel, I quickly showered and repacked and headed for Knosos.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 4, 1993 from Irakleion, Greece

Clare, Australia
(see Burra entry)
written by  shoshtrvls on April 4, 1990 from Clare, Australia

Fes, Morocco
Jallil, Samir's brother, picked me up around 8:00. We first went to the house and then Jallil took me around the medina. Of course, he spoke no English or French so communication was difficult. Also, those buildings which the guidebook said were spectacular were all closed for renovation, including the Bou Inania.
We returned to the house for lunch, being in part a cock purchased in Azrou. Then I went with Heidi and Samir's sister Leila to the hammam. Afterward, Samir's younger brother and his friend (who spoke good French) showed me some other parts of the city -- the palace and the mellach. At some point we also went back to the uncle's house and looked at the carpets Samir had bought during his stay.
Dinner was steamed meat, again at Samir's -- by now I felt like a regular part of the family.
While I found the Median interesting enough, with mules pushing their way through the streets, cats running each and every way, and beautiful water fountains at each turm, I must admit that it lacked a certain exotic feel such as that in Kashmir. And for all Jallil's help, I did wish I had an English-speaking guide to explain things to me. However, this was more than made up for by the hospitality offered to me by Samir's family. Their home was a comfortable resting place in the middle of busy days.
I was also glad for the opportunity to go to the hammam with Heidi and Leila. It certainly was a fascinating experience -- women of all shapes anad sizes grabbing buckets of both hot and cold water to make the perfect temperature. The heat was almost refreshing -- like feeling my skin breath. Going from the hot rooms to the colder ones, or bathing in the cold water, was wonderful -- again, a great respite.
After dinner, Samir took me to a friend's shop. His friend, Hassan, was really cute. And I could not help but buy -- at prices much too expensive. I bought a camel hair blanket and some exquisite fabric which I will never use. But I also saw the shoemakers, so I believe that I bought good quality stuff, the fabric in particular. (NOTE: I'm writing this 16-1/2 years later and I *still* haven't used that fabric -- but I do have it) Again, I returned to the hotel fully satisfied, if not a bit poorer.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 22, 1991 from Fes, Morocco

Punakha, Bhutan
After completing our shopping in Thimphu, we drove to Punakha. As we crossed the high mountain pass, the rain came (or we came to the rain) and Palden and Dorji hung a prayer flag at the top of the pass, where there were so many such flags that it was amazing.
We passed at least one hillside monastery and many villages and water-driven prayer wheels. The fog was thick for much of the drive, giving the rugged high jungle (and it was jungle) an eerie beauty. We eventually descended into the rice patty valley.
After lunch at our hotel, we continued on to the dzong (the fortress of happiness), a large, imposing structure in the valley. The main courtyard holds a large bodhi tree. The young monks were praying as we passed through on our way to the main temple. Although relatively new, it was spectacular, with 3 enormous buddhas, magnificently painted walls and gold pillars. We also climbed ot the top of the tower and visited two more temples before leaving the dzong.
Our final stop of the day was a short walk through the rice patties and a tiny village to a small temple called Chimi Lhaking, where we received a fertility blessing using an arrow and phallus (not that either Ellery or I are looking to be fertile right now). There was much praying going on inside -- throughout this trip was have chanced on several special prayer days/ceremonies as it appears we are traveling during certain auspicious days.
When we returned to the hotel, we found a group of Thai tourists who were a welcome diversion.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 25, 2006 from Punakha, Bhutan

Kowloon, Hong Kong
Up early, our first stop was to CTS and CAAC making travel arrangements to China. The process was simple but it did seem to take an awfully long time -- we weren't done until noon. Then, a fair amount of time was spent in a camera shop while Barbara replaced the one she left at home. We then had lunch next door at a Chinese restaurant populated by Hong Kong businessmen -- much time was spent watching how others ate and copying them.
From there we walked along the Harbor to the Star Ferry which we took to Hong Kong Island.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 6, 1987 from Kowloon, Hong Kong

Geysers and Springs
Cody, United States
Back into Yellowstone with one destination in mind – Old Faithful. So, it was back on the highway 30 Miles to the East Entrance, then 27 Miles past Yellowstone Lake, then 21 Miles to West Thumb (see where I’m going with this? Even reaching this trip’s destination does not mean the end of driving), crossing the Continental Divide, then a final 17 Miles to Old Faithful.
Woah. Masses of people. I’m thinking there are people who come to Yellowstone, see this geyser, and then leave. Which is, honestly, what we did. We arrived just after it spouted so had lunch and waited the 75 minutes or so for the next eruption. As did lots and lots of other people. And while Old Faithful didn’t disappoint, I have to say it was a bit anti-climatic. But, it can now be checked off the “been there, done that” list.
Much more interesting and impressive were the pools a Midway Geyser Basin, a bit further up the road. Beautiful blue steaming turquoise ponds surrounded by red and orange clay. Really beautiful to see.
We then headed back, stopping briefly at Kepler Cascades, a very picturesque little Waterfall.
After about an hour break at the cabin, we headed back into Cody for dinner and the rodeo. We had a really fine meal (truly) at a restaurant near the stadium, and then headed in for the evening’s festivities.
Another disappointment. The “show” was corny and at time offensive (Brokeback Mountain jokes the prime offenders), and the riders themselves were not that good or graceful. It was like seeing a bad bullfight, but without the bill dying. We were more than happy to leave after the bull-riding, back to our cabin for the night.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 21, 2011 from Cody, United States

Up at 4 a.m. (ok, we overslept -- 4:30 am) for our flight home.

Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina
It wouldn't be one of our classic Summer trips if we didn't hit at least 3 countries, and today we did that by going to Mostar in Bosnia-Herzegovina. A formerly war-torn town in a formerly war-torn country, here you can really see why "Yugoslavia" was never really one country, as the Muslim influence here is, while relatively benign (few hajibs, etc.), so contrasting to everything else we've seen. The old bridge is a spectacular site, and we were able to see one of the bridge divers jump, after walking around the small town streets lined with vendors of every kind, from cheap trinkets to some very nice art galleries. All in all, a nice diversion for the day.
Home in Dubrovnik was another evening stroll on our second-to-last day of vacation.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 10, 2013 from Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Day 15 -- Back To Reality
Singapore, Singapore
Well, what I thought would be a whirlwind tour of Vientiane was not, mostly because, well, there isn't a lot to see here, particularly if you're already on Buddhist temple overload. Overall, however, the city is relatively nice. Crowded, but not uncomfortably so; enough push carts and stalls to make it interesting but not so many that everything tumbles into the street. And there seem to be a good number of open air, and even grassy areas, to relax in.
We left the hotel at 8:30, and by 11:30, were done. In that time we visited the Grand Stupa, which apparently contains some Buddha relics inside. As our guide explained, pointing to a balcony on the stupa, "That's where the Royal Family used to sit on festival days. Now the [Communist] party leaders sit there. So, not so different before 1975 and after.". (Later I learned that his father had been imprisoned for 15 years after the revolution, and his uncle, who had worked for the CIA, had fled the country and moved to Washington, DC). We also visited a huge concrete arch patterned after the Arc de Triumph built to celebrate the country's independence from France - insert quizzical expression here. Then there was the temple that used to house the emerald buddha until it was stolen by Thailand, and finally a really nice temple that had, among other things, hundreds of broken Buddhas. Laos has been invaded and conquered and sacked so many times (Vientiane was burned to the round in 1828 and abandoned for 60 years, so everything you see is relatively new) that every time they dig a foundation for a new building or expand a road, they discover more old Buddhas. This should be called the land of the broken Buddhas.
Anyway, after the city tour, we retired to Joma, our not-exactly-Starbucks chain (there's a third one in Hanoi) for lunch and wifi until it was time to get to the airport. And, continuing with out monsoon luck, it only started pouring after we got to Joma and not during our temple tour.
Flight to Singapore proceeded without a hitch. As with all flights around here, although it was short, we were fed well; as Ellery noted, the Lao Airlines food is better than a lot of what you can get on the ground.
Singapore was a shock back into first world life. Incredibly interesting skyscrapers and modern architecture awaited us, much of which we can see from our kindly upgraded room. Dinner at an outdoor food court/shopping mall across the street, and now it's time to sleep.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 3, 2012 from Singapore, Singapore

Moving Forward ... and South
Coban, Guatemala
Jose was right on time, picking us up at La Lancha at the ungodly hour of 4:30 a.m. Indeed, we were up before the howler monkeys, a real feat. This is especially true given that a group of Mexican tourists had arrived the evening before, and their arrival spoiled the quiet nights that we had come to enjoy. I wondered if that’s what the Aussies thought when we arrived.
We arrived at the bus station in Santa Elena at 5:45, perfect timing for our bus to Coban, in the center of the country. Except it wasn’t a bus, it was a minibus. With our bags on top, the van could seat 14 and the driver in modest comfort. And we started with a mere 12, consisting of the driver, the driver’s assistant, six Guatemalans, a dashing Italian couple, and Ellery and I. But the difference between a bus and a minibus is that a minibus will stop to take on passengers every time it is waved down (that’s where the driver’s assistant comes in), and will drop off people along the way. Except there are usually more getting on than getting off, such that there were generally about 20 or 24 people in the van, and sometimes the driver’s assistant would sit on top with the bags. Did I mention that the van didn’t have air conditioning?
The people getting on and off were a wonderful assortment of Guatemalan peasants. Early in the morning there were ranch hands heading to cattle farms and women bringing big baskets of goods to where ever the next town was; by late morning it was parents picking their children up from school and men with machetes on their way to the coffee fields (at least, I hope that’s what they were planning on using the knives for).
And where the roads crossed, a unique form of “musical minibus” would take place, with people getting off of one bus and getting onto another, in different combinations.
As we drove south, the cultural and geographic changes were evident. We started seeing women wearing traditional clothing, long dark skirts and loose, poncho-like tops and men wearing jeans, rubber boots and cowboy hats. And the open ranch land cleared from the jungle gave way to dramatic mountains covered in both natural vegetation and man-made corn fields … except these weren’t flat fields; rather, corn was planted up and down the sides of the mountains. And the closer we got to Coban, the more winding the road became, as it wove it’s way through the mountains. The villages and towns we passed were varied. Some were like those near La Lancha, little more than a few buildings and food stalls along the side of the road. But two stood out from the rest.
The first was Sayaxche, a town on the banks of the Rio de la Pasion. To cross, people ride on brightly colored boats while cars and buses are loaded onto a wooden ferry that looks like it would sink under the weight of a feather. And yet, it makes it across the river with ease. Like the boats, the buildings of Sayaxche are a variety of colors and only upon closer inspection would one notice that they aren’t really charming, just dilapidated. Still, it was a unique place.
The other town of note was Chisec, which was one big outdoor market. Here we stopped for a while, everyone piling out of the van to get something to eat, to use the restroom, or to smoke. “Getting something to eat” meant choosing a food stall and asking for tortillas filled with grilled meat, chicken, or sausage – and from the looks of the market, all meat had most likely been running around enjoying life just a few hours earlier. They were delicious. (And yes, traveling and vegetarianism do not go hand in hand).
We finally reached the outskirts of Coban around 11:30, which is as far as the van took us. Although it could have been walked, the Italian couple, Ellery and I took a cab to the center of town. Ellery and I quickly found a suitable place to stay, something between a hotel and a guest house right in the middle of town, with a certain colonial charm – dark Spanish-style furniture in musty-smelling rooms surrounding an overgrown courtyard. Begin in the center of town, it isn’t very quiet, but it is very convenient.
After a brief respite, Els and I toured this little town, taking in the center plaza and, more importantly, the market a few blocks away. Like most markets in small towns, it was a mix of hard goods like shoes, fabrics, and electronics and fresh vegetables, fruits, and breads. And every so often, an old woman selling tortillas out of a large basket lined with brightly woven fabric. A real treat. As usual, the rains came about 4 p.m., and Ellery and I have settled into a quiet afternoon of reading and journaling, and will soon be headed to dinner, most likely in the elegant looking dining room attached to the hotel.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 28, 2009 from Coban, Guatemala

Day 6, part 1 -- Relaxing
Ortobanda, Netherlands Antilles
After getting home around 3 a.m., we slept until 11, then hit the spa.
written by on September 4, 2010 from Ortobanda, Netherlands Antilles

Day Six - Lights, Camera, History!
Jerusalem, Israel, West Bank
A quick report for a lazy day.
Today was spent almost entirely by the swimming pool. Ellery made yet another new friend (also from New York, like all the rest) and spent much of the afternoon with her and her family in the Old City. (Hopefully, she didn't whine with them the way she does with me).
I also took a quick trip to the Old City, to buy tickets to the Light and Sound Show at the Tower of David. And it was actually a good show -- 5,000 years of history in lights (minus the 100 or so years between the 1850's and today -- best not to offend anyone, I suspect).
written by  shoshtrvls on August 23, 2008 from Jerusalem, Israel, West Bank

Day 16 -- Land Of The Future
Singapore, Singapore
Back to the future. Singapore is quite the place. Futuristic architecture, more Louis Vuitton stores within 4 blocks than probably all of the US, and thousands of people from probably every country on the planet.
We did three things primarily today. First, we went to the Singapore Art Museum, and took the 11:00 am English tour with a fabulous docent. The work here is terrific, all special installations, and quite reminiscent of MassMOCA - site specific work in an unusual setting (here, a former catholic school). There were a few pieces that really blew me away. And we walked away with an inflatable Walter, a huge white bunny who apparently pops up in unusual places around Singapore.
Next was a long walk to, and up and down Orchard Street. All shopping malls, all with the same high-end stores selling the same merchandise. The point was definitely lost on me. (Still, I came away with a new point-and-shoot camera that I like a lot).
Finally, we went to the best zoo ever. Or at least the most brilliant concept - a zoo open only at night, so you can see nocturnal animals doing something other than sleeping. There are just enough lights to highlight each enclosure, and every animal we saw was up and about, from the big cats to the hyenas to the small otters and bats. There are both walking trails and a tram ride, both of which provided excellent, up close animal viewing. On my worldwide zoo scale, I give it an a+.
Tomorrow is the last day of our trip, and I'm truly sad to see it end. From start to finish, we've seen a lot of fabulous stuff.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 4, 2012 from Singapore, Singapore

Arenal, Costa Rica
Arrival in La Fortuna
written by  shoshtrvls on April 20, 2011 from Arenal, Costa Rica

Ready and Relaxed
Wapiti, United States
Today was a relatively relaxed day, so not much of interest to report. We slept in, and then drove a few Miles up the road to another ranch for a 2 hour trail ride, which took us across several small streams and up the side of one of the canyon walls for some very nice views.
Then, it was back into Cody for lunch and a stop to pick up supplies at the local Wal-Mart.
The day ended with Ellery and I watching Close Encounters of the Third Kind (love that Amazon instant streaming) in light of our recent stop at Devil’s Tower.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 22, 2011 from Wapiti, United States

Meeting Up
Teton Village, United States
A much more active day. We were up almost at dawn and on the road by 7 a.m. This was intentional, as we had plans to meet Gary, Leslie and Jake for an 11 a.m. float down the Snake River. As I had received estimates of the time it would take to get to Moose of between 3-1/2 and 6-1/2 hours, I knew I had to make good time. And we did – under 3 hours. Of course, it helped that there wasn’t much traffic through Yellowstone, that we had seen that stretch of road and the attendant sights several times by now, and that the road through the Tetons was fairly flat and straight.
Oh, but what a drive. I seriously did not expect the Tetons to be as beautiful as they were. Pictures do the best talking here (especially since the girls are now, evidently, "bored" with mountains).
Having made it to Moose in record time, we waited for the Thompsons at the Visitors Center before heading off for our float trip, which offered even more fabulous views of the mountains as well as a bald eagle or two.
On our way back to Teton Village, we finally got a good look at a moose – a young male, not very large, but still impressive.
Then it was time to check into our hotel, the Snake River Lodge, a very nice place. Ellery and Jake then headed off for a horseback ride, Jordan to the room to do whatever it is she does on the computer, and me to the spa for a quick 20 minute massage. Heaven.
The kids then spent some time swimming and the day eventually ended with a very nice dinner together at the Mangy Moose, after which Ellery went back to Jake’s hotel for a last late night swim.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 23, 2011 from Teton Village, United States

Brussels, Belgium
And a brief layover in Belgium ...
written by on November 28, 2010 from Brussels, Belgium

Day 17 -- Wherein We Go Home
Singapore, Singapore
Our last day, and we're ready to go home.
Today we walked around Singapore, all of it, or so it seemed. First to Arab Street where the carpet-looking experience was seriously wanting, then to Little India, which was similarly uninteresting, and then all the way down to Marina Bay, along the boat quay, to the bizarre-looking Sands Hotel, a spaceship swimming pool on top of three clothespins (the only way to describe it), and the even more bizarre looking Garden By The Bay, with it's huge robot-like trees. Then Ellery went to the Harry Potter exhibit at the Science Museum, and I had a foot massage - really, it was a lot of walking. We returned by crossing the Helix Bridge to the Esplanade, and back to our little area of the world. Then it was dinner at a deli (really, but not really) in the Raffles Hotel, and finally - finally - to the airport.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 5, 2012 from Singapore, Singapore

Day 7 - Ahavaland, Here We Come
Mizpe Shalem, West Bank
Our last day in Jerusalem …
We started by revisiting the Tower of David Citadel, this time to view the museum and the ruins. It’s a very well done exhibit and presentation of the history of Jerusalem – once again, without the last 100 or so years.
Then I finally convinced Ellery that no trip to Israel would be complete without a trip to the Dead Sea, so we hired a taxi and headed to Mineral Beach. The landscape changes on the drive were drastic – from the landscaped greenery of Jerusalem, to the barren and hilly desert dotted with Bedouin camps, to the deep ravines that lead to the Dead Sea, and finally the steep craggy cliffs overlooking the Dead Sea. While we did not get to Masada, it was easy to see why a fortress on these cliffs would be so valuable.
Mineral Beach was definitely an experience. No question but that you can locate every single scrape and scratch on your body as it comes into contact with the salty water. Ellery couldn’t take it for long, nor really could I. But we did the obligatory mud slathering and floating, and then spent the rest of the time in the cool fresh water pool. (There was also a sulfur pool but it was incredibly hot and smelly).
written by  shoshtrvls on August 24, 2008 from Mizpe Shalem, West Bank

Day 6, part 2 -- More Music
World Trade Center, Netherlands Antilles
Second night of the Jazz Festival -- Natalie Cole, Sergio Mendez, Roy Hargrove, John Legend and Simply Red.
written by on September 5, 2010 from World Trade Center, Netherlands Antilles

Deforestation ... Lessons Learned
Uspantan, Guatemala
Today started out with a walk back to the market, where Ellery and I explored the produce and meat market. There were baskets upon baskets of onions, bananas, oranges, cauliflower, potatoes, strawberries – just about every kind of produce imaginable. And the smells of it all – the strong onion, the allspice, the garlic; you could even smell the freshness of the tomatoes. On the meat side of the equation, one had a choice of live or almost alive chickens, turkeys, pigs and cows. After wandering a bit, we sat at a small comedor and enjoyed a breakfast of eggs, tortillas (you would not believe how many tortillas can be made and sold in one country), beans and bread. And the best coffee I’ve ever tasted in my life, truly.
Our next stop was the small coffee plantation on the south side of the town, where we were given a wonderful, brief tour of the different kinds of coffee beans and how they are grown, harvested, and roasted. The tour ended with a cup of coffee – a good one, but not as good as the one in the market.
We then checked out of the hotel, determined to make it to Chichicastenango by nightfall. To do so, we had three options: taking a bus down to Guatemala City, and then minibuses to Antigua and then one to Chichi; engaging in the “wave down” process through the back roads of the Western Highlands, or hiring a private car and driver. I confess, not wanting to risk being at some crossroad in the middle of nowhere at night, I opted for the private driver. And thus, we were picked up by Armando and Manuel promptly at 10:00 a.m.
Initially, Armando wanted to take the route through Guatemala City, a bit longer milage-wise but much faster due to the good roads. And, there was the small matter of the road to Uspantan having been buried under a massive avalanche a few months earlier. But after many inquiries and confirmations that the road was reopened, Armando agreed to give that road a try. I think if he had known it’s true condition, he wouldn’t have taken it, but I am so glad he did. The road winds high into the mountains and the scenery and views, even though marred by the obvious clear-cutting of the forest, is spectacular, and rivals that of Bhutan, Colorado, and every other mountain range I’ve been lucky enough to see. The road, on the other hand, is unpaved, single lane, muddy, and treacherous. But Manuel, the driver, navigated it well, and it took us only about 3-1/2 hours to reach Uspantan.
One of the more interesting sights along the way, which I'm sorry I did not get a picture of, was a woman spinning thread ... spinning it out of some sort of plant. Even more interestingly, she was doing it by the side of the road, on what looked like an old bicycle tire, the the line went way, way down the road along small branches along the road, almost like miniature telephone lines.
However, if ever there was a cautionary tale about the problems of deforestation, the avalanche is it. A huge area of what was once a stately mountain looks like it has simply been sliced off. As you get closer, and then as you drive through it, you can see how it has all fallen into the valley below, both huge chunks and boulders and tons of dirt and debris. Thirty people were killed at the time; it’s amazing there weren’t more dead.
From Uspantan, it was an easy, although equally curvy, paved road through to Chichi by way of numerous several towns and villages. We could tell when we were getting close to a village because of the road bumps, or "sleeping policemen" as they are called. Why they are needed, however, remains a mystery because, really, it's impossible to go very fast on these mountain roads.
After Uspantan, there was no mistaking the fact that we had started up to the highlands. The tropical jungle plants gave way to the type of forest more common in the U.S., with pine trees and dense brush. The houses and small outposts also changed, from wooden huts with thatched or corrugated metal roofs, to mud brick buildings with red tiled roofs. Cattle returned to the scene, along with sheep and goats, and the wardrobe of the women became more colorful, and more detailed. And corn …not an inch of cleared space was without corn growing on it.
We arrived in Chichi around 4:30, well before dark and, quite frankly, well before we would have gotten here had we taken the Guatemala City route. Our hotel is a large one, colonial in style, with rooms surrounding a lovely courtyard. But we didn’t rest long, because we wanted to take a walk around town before dark (since we’ve been warned not to do so at night, and while I’m not a fearful traveler, with Ellery in tow, it’s advice I didn’t want to ignore). We were treated to a small preview of tomorrow’s market day, as many of the stalls were being set up and the sellers already hawking their wares. It definitely looks to be a huge undertaking worthy of its fame. We also took a look inside the two main churches which, like another we had visited earlier in the day, was rather plain, with the exception of the beautifully-carved wooden statues of just about every saint imaginable. But the main church in Chichi has an added attraction – down the center aisle are square stones with flower petals and other offerings on them. As Armando had explained, in Chichi, Catholicism and ancient Mayan traditions mixed together to form a unique blend of beliefs, and the offerings in the center of the Church were evidence of that.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 29, 2009 from Uspantan, Guatemala

Hong Kong (historical), Hong Kong
A good part of the afternoon here was wasted trying to get to a hotel that Barbara wanted to stay at upon her return from China. After endless walking and getting nowhere, we finally gon on a bus and found the hotel. Barbara made reservations and, running out of time, we grabbed a cab to the Victoria Peak tram. The tram ride up was really very pretty, as was the view from the top. Unfortunately, we didn't have much time to explore and hurried back to Kowloon because we had booked a Hong Kong tour/dinner cruise for that evening. Interestingly, on the Star Ferry back we ran into a Hong Kong teenager who had sat next to us on the plane over.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 6, 1987 from Hong Kong (historical), Hong Kong

Wangdiphodrang, Bhutan
This was a long day of driving, but spectacularly beautiful. We set out early from Punakha and soon came to Wangdue. Being "dzonged-out," and with more to come, we didn't stop at the dzong but did wander around the small town of Wangdi where the weekend market was occurring.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 26, 2006 from Wangdiphodrang, Bhutan

Bursa, Turkey
The route from Istanbul to Bursa was a circuitous one; the bus first drove up the Bosphorus to the Sea of Marmara, then onto a ferry for the trip across to Yalova, and finally right into Bursa. Although we could have shortened the trip a bit by taking a quick hydrofoil ride across the Bosphorus to Yalova and then catching a local bus from there, but the fact is that riding the excursion buses in Turkey is definitely the way to travel. There are hundreds of different bus companies and they all run fairly nice, new, air-conditioned models at prices that were jaw-dropping; a five hour bus from Kutayha to Ankara cost us about $3.50 each, breakfast included! And then there are the little things, like the lemon-y water that gets poured on your hands several times so you can "freshen up" and the free bottled water, sodas and snacks which are served during the trip. Apparently, this makes up for the truly horrendous train service, which Mark and I didn't even dare attempt.
Arriving in Bursa late in the afternoon, we found a nice little hotel right in the center of things. After dropping off our bags, we immediately high-tailed it to the famous thermal baths in the suburb of Cekirge; the mineral water in Bursa is rumored to have healing powers and people allegedly make pilgrimages to Bursa as they do to Bathe in England. To make sure that we got the full benefit of the springs, we decided to go to the oldest Turkish baths, known as hamams, around -- well, at least Mark did. The hamam for men was built in 1555 for Suleyman the Magnificent (a name that crops up all the time in Turkey, almost as often as Ataturk's) and, according to Mark, was beautifully marbled. The hamam for women was just down the street; it was not built in 1555, nor did it contain much marble. Still, the experience was wonderful.
Hamams (at least the ones I've visited in Morocco and Turkey) have at least three rooms. Generally, the room at the farthest end is the sauna, where hot, hot water bubbles up from the center of the room. Small holes in the domed roof let some of the heat out, but on the whole these rooms are almost unbearable if you're not used to it. Some hamams also have pools in the hot room for dunking and relaxing, which this one in Bursa did. The room which adjoins the hot room has lukewarm water and pools, and here is where the serious bathing goes on. Although some people wash themselves, most people have friends or family wash them. A third alternative is to pay a professional to do it, which is what I did in Bursa. The process begins with a real scruffing off of all the dirt and dead skin cells that have accumulated since the last bath . . . and I mean scruffing, like until your skin is almost raw. Then the soap is lathered on and a serious deep tissue massaging takes place. Finally, your hair is washed, rinsed and combed. The last room is the cool room, which is used mostly for relaxing, sipping tea, and talking.
In Mark's case, he used the last room for falling asleep. Although I was done in a little over an hour and a half, I found myself sitting outside the men's hamam for another hour before a policeman hanging out across the street offered to go inside and find Mark for me. The policeman came out a few seconds later and made the international "sleep" sign (head tilted on hands pressed together), and shortly after that a rather groggy Mark emerged. By this time it was rather late and we were relaxed, so we simply headed back to the hotel for the night.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 5, 1996 from Bursa, Turkey

Burra, Australia
After Tarlee, we made a wrong turn and ended up on 83 driving through Auburn on our way to Clare. This turned out to be good luck because to cut back over we went through Mintaro, a quaint, very little 19th century town. Just outside of Mintaro was Martindale Hall, the house allegedly featured in "the house at hanging rock. We then had lunch in Burra, a well-preserved little town.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 4, 1990 from Burra, Australia

The next day Samir picked me up and I learned it was some sort of holiday, so changing money was done in the Hotel Fez -- very nice. Then to the train station to purchase a ticket -- Samir talked me into buying one for the 1 a.m. train.
Anyway, after taking care of business, we again went to the Medina so I could use up my film as Samir and Heidi wanted to borrow it in the afternoon to take pictures of carpets. This time I took photos of the markets, mules, picturesque squares made for tourists, even the mosque.
Again back to Samir's for lunch -- hamburger meat rolled into little finers and eaten with the ubiquitous (and delicious) break. Afterward, a nap and Samir took me to a little resort area (Ein Chekaff?) where Jallil, Hassan, Samir and I sat in the shade drinking and smoking hash. We also stopped at the Kasbah, stuffed with people shopping, and I saw the Palais Jamai and visited a leather shop.
Then we met up with Heidi and the rest at the museum, and finally Tareq (their son) took a liking to me. Afterwards, a cafe at a nearby hotel.
We then dropped Heidi off and drove around a bit before stopping at a cafe near the gate. Dinner was brochettes and a talk with an Aussie girl. Jallil then took me back to say good-bye to the family. We drove to the fort. After we were supposed to see belly dancing but missed it. Finally to the train station where Samir asked me for $300 dh. It somewhat spoiled the last three days and I told him I didn't have it (which was true). Besides, I had paid more than my share for various drinks and coffee, dinner the evening before, as well as $100 dh I had given him the day before (which was probably spent on Hash) as well as a roll of film. I didn't feel bad, although Jallil and the younger one who actually did all the work probably saw none of it.

Knosos, Greece
The ruins at Knosos would have been disappointing had I any expectations. Even so, I found them seriously lacking. First, they were packed to the gills with tourists, many in large groups sufficient to block the views and passage of anyone not a part of them. Second, although interesting, they lacked the power of, for example, Macchu Pichu. Finally, it was impossible to get a guide and, as a result, I am certain that I missed some of the more important sites (the Queen's chamber being one). Since most of the tourists in Crete appear to be German or French rather than American or English as on Santorini, I couldn't even find a group to tag along with.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 4, 1993 from Knosos, Greece

Viana do Castelo, Portugal
Viana-do-Castelo
written by  shoshtrvls on April 6, 1995 from Viana do Castelo, Portugal

Brugge, Belgium
This was an action-packed day, involving lots of walking around the town, a carriage ride and a boat trip through the town's many canals.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 26, 2003 from Brugge, Belgium

Ciudad del Este, Paraguay
After cashing a traveler’s check (with some difficulty re: matching signatures), I met Matthew for our trip to Foz de Iguazu. The bus was easily identified and we stopped at the border for passport control as Matthew did not intend to return. While we were quickly able to catch the next bus, we were not as able to find the right place to get off. So, instead of ending up at the bus terminal, we wound up at the bridge leading to Paraguay.
The border guard was quite nice and stamped my passport without charging the usual $3.00. Good thing too, as our stay was less than 1/2 hour. Needless to say, the comparison to Tijuana is highly unflattering to Mexico. Ciudad de Este (or whatever it is called) is a pit in the truest sense of the word. Matthew and I couldn’t even find a slum to have a beer in. Needless to say, we hightailed it out of there rather quickly and made our way to the center of Foz.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 16, 1992 from Ciudad del Este, Paraguay

Juneau, United States
In Juneau, our next stop, Mendenhall Glacier was the thing to see.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 24, 2005 from Juneau, United States

Johannesburg, South Africa
This was pretty much a travel day, leaving Johannesburg and heading up to Victoria Falls.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 3, 2004 from Johannesburg, South Africa

George Town, Cayman Islands
A relaxing day spent in Grand Cayman shopping and snorkeling (something that Ellery was initially terrified to do, but eventually went at it with great gusto).
written by  shoshtrvls on February 26, 2008 from George Town, Cayman Islands

Liechtenstein
Vaduz, Liechtenstein
Vaduz
written by  shoshtrvls on August 9, 1980 from Vaduz, Liechtenstein

A Very Bad Day Saved By Very Good Friends
Denver, United States
Well, if I thought things were improving with Jordan, I was wrong.
As planned, since Jordan has never seen snow, our morning was set to begin with a 9 a.m. ride up with Jake up the Gondola to the top of Jackson Hole, were there was breakfast of waffles and nutella (Jordan’s proclaimed favorite food), to be followed by frolicking in the snow. Ellery and Jake and I enjoyed all these things amongst some amazing views (which included watching snowboarders make tracks in late July!)
Jordan did not, however, enjoy any of these things. As Ellery and I had come to learn, Jordan is not a morning person, but her mood this morning was as bad as it had ever been. She did not enjoy the ride up the gondola, she did not like the waffle (and yelled at Ellery when Ellery asked how it was), and refused to partake in any reindeer games. It was now clear that, under any circumstances, Jordan was not having fun – whether it was because she is 16, because she was homesick, because she didn’t enjoy our company, or whatever it was, it wasn’t going away. And things did not get any better when I told her that I would tolerate many things, but being rude and mean to Ellery and Jake was not one of them.
This resulted in a crying fit of significant proportions, a lengthy conversation with someone about how I was treating her like a 12 year old (earth to Jordan – even adults like snowball fights in July) purposely made within my earshot, and, unfortunately, a 9 hour drive through beautiful Shoshone National Forest, with amazing wide open green pastures, and the Wind River Canyon, with striking red rocks, in complete, steaming, angry silence. And then another 7 hours of the most boring drive I have ever made (really, worse than Kansas or Texas). As much as I kept telling myself that this was merely moody teenager behavior, or that it would pass, I was pretty overwhelmed by her anger, even when she decided not to participate in the ritual cross-the-state-border photo (a ritual that she, herself, initiated).
Fortunately, relief was waiting in Denver, in two magnificent forms – the Lynch/Hyman family from Texas and David Picker and his girlfriend Anne. So, after checking into a beautifully large room at the Westin, Ellery and I (without Jordan, who chose to stay in the hotel and have room service – a choice I did not dissuade her from) met up with Leslie, Phil, Rachel and Gabe for a very nice and enjoyable dinner at a restaurant on the 16th Street mall. Then, while the kids went up to Phil and Leslie’s hotel room, we met up with David and Anne for drinks, where I promptly cried my eyes out over the stress of the day, which they allowed me to do, along with offering me various theories of what was going on, all aimed at making me feel better. And when I said, “Really, I’d love to just put her on a plane home, but I don’t want it to end this way,” Phil said, quite wisely, “Why don’t you just offer her the opportunity to go home?” I thought about it, and realized that despite the fact that I had wanted to see this trip through, really, that was the simplest solution. If she said yes, it would make us all happier; if she said no, it meant that she was committed to the trip and, hopefully, would be happier about it.
So, we came back to the room and I asked her. “Do you want to send me home?” she asked. “No, I don’t, but I’m giving you the opportunity to go home.” “Well, if you don’t want to send me home, then don’t.” OK, I thought, she wants to stay. It isn’t as bad for her as it seems. But just a few minutes later, she piped up, “There’s a 10:30 flight but I can’t change my ticket.” So, that was the answer – and it was OK. She was homesick, she wasn’t enjoying herself, she definitely wanted to go home. I bought the plane ticket.
Throughout the night, I thought maybe she would change her mind in the a.m., but that would be OK too.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 24, 2011 from Denver, United States

Relax and Reload
Denver, United States
For nearly the first time since the trip began, Jordan was up without any prodding and quickly packed. If there was any doubt last night that she was ready to go home, it was resolved. She wanted to go home. So, we drove to the airport, again in silence but, this time, not an angry one. I asked her if she wanted me just to drop her off and she said no, so I helped her check in and walked her to security. As I told her that I hoped we’d see her again, maybe in a less stressful situation, and that I really did like her, she gave me a slight smile as she headed through the screeners.
Yesterday and today were days when I really needed friends; I was amazingly lucky, really, to have them waiting for me in Denver.
While I was sad to see Jordan go, things really did lighten up; it was really the best thing for all of us. I returned to Denver proper and joined Leslie and Ellery for breakfast. Soon, we picked up Gabe and explored the 16th Street Mall in a bit more depth, and made our way to the capital for the obligatory sighting of the mile-high marker (although I’m told there are three of them and no one is really sure which step is a mile high). Eventually, Phil and Rachel also joined us, and we spend several nice hours just hanging by the swimming pool. At which point Ellery suggested that the women all get pedicures so, off we went and had our toes painted.
After saying good-bye to Phil, Leslie, Rachel and Gabe, we returned to our room briefly, but were soon picked up by David and Anne, and we all headed to a very cute little neighborhood overlooking the city for a nice Mexican dinner at Lola, a stroll around the neighborhood, and a drive through various parts of Denver (which included our sighting of a Calatrava bridge under construction – we’ve now seen four Calatravas on three different continents). Denver really is a lovely city; lots of diverse neighborhoods, a solid city Center, and enviable natural beauty.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 25, 2011 from Denver, United States

Wow ... Just, Wow
Chichicastenango, Guatemala
For the past 30+ years, whenever I've been asked to name the most beautiful place I've seen, I've always answered Kashmir. Well, we have a close contender in Lago Atitlan.
But first, back to Chichi. Unfortunately, Ellery had quite a stomach bug overnight, so we got very little sleep. Fortunately, by morning it had passed, and so we were able to take in the market day we had so looked forward to.
And what a market it was. The town is completely taken over by the stalls, and the streets were so packed it was nearly impossible to get through them at times. What an amazing assortment was spread before us -- from produce to flowers to spices to brightly colored weavings to wooden masks, live chickens and goats, and dead ones as well. And we shopped and shopped and shopped, often from stalls but also from women and children who simply walked the market selling what they had. We bought fabrics and masks and small figurines -- Ellery even found an elephant to add to our collection.
A favorite purchase was a traditional outfit from the area. Which is not to be confused with the traditional dress from Santa Cruz or Sacapulas or Acul. Each town has a distinctive fabric skirt and a distinctive type of blouse, and all were on display on the women selling their harvests and wares.
By noon, we were worn out, and took respite in our beautiful hotel until 2 p.m., when we caught a minibus to Panajachel. Along the way, the clothing changed again -- in Solola, men wore colorful embroidered pants, while in Panajachel the woman wore headresses of dark purple velvet. Like the road into Chichi, this one also wove it's way along and up the mountains, eventually descending into the valley. And I'm not sure I've seen anything so spectacular ... a huge beautiful lake, surrounded by imposing volcanos, their tips barely visible among the clouds.
We opted to stay just a bit out of town, and while I rarely will rave about a hotel, this one is a stunner. Spanish in style, the grounds are botanical gardens, filled with dozens of different kinds of roses, orchids and other flowers, and birds of every kind, some in cages but others simply drawn to area. And each and every room in the hotel has a view of the lake and the volcanos. Really, if there's a paradise, this is it.
After cooling off in the swimming pool, we headed into town for a few hours. Panajachel is like a mini-Kathmandu, a haven for backpackers and what passes for hippies in the 21st century, yet it still feels very much like a small Guatemalan town. After making plans to take a boat around the lake tomorrow, we decided on a vegetarian restaurant with a distinct Woodstock feel, followed up with desert and coffee at a nearby cafe ... a sweet ending to another wonderful day on the road.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 30, 2009 from Chichicastenango, Guatemala

Day 7 -- Home
Ortobanda, Netherlands Antilles
Yep, just another sleeping late morning and home.
written by on September 6, 2010 from Ortobanda, Netherlands Antilles

Day 7 (continued) - Final Thoughts on Israel
After a few hours we returned to Jerusalem (necessarily stopping at the Ahava factory) and rested for a bit before heading out once again, this time heading to Ben Yehuda Street – which I’m not sure we ever actually reached, but we did find a wonderful little area with tons of outdoor restaurants and cafes, where we sat for a last, long dinner in Jerusalem.
As you can probably tell from the prior posts, I wasn’t taken with Israel. Not unexpectedly, I guess, I found most of the people very harsh and not welcoming or friendly at all. From people in shops to the hotel staff to, well, just about everyone. This was particularly true of our guide, Dafna. While she did a fine job as a guide, everything was quite rushed – I realize and appreciate that she wanted to beat the crowds, and that was nice, but she left no time for wandering or relaxing. More importantly, she had not a single nice word to say about anyone, whether she was speaking about the Palestinians or the Ultra Orthodox Jews or people she had guided before. When she wasn’t on the cell phone with her kids or her friends or the next tourist, she complained that people didn’t realize how much things cost, that people didn’t realize what it took to be a guide in Israel, that people didn’t tip, and on and on. (OK, got it, Dafna, you expect a tip.)
Fortunately, the people of Israel redeemed themselves in Shuki. Shuki was our taxi driver to the Dead Sea and to the Allenby Bridge. Shuki was in all respects Dafna’s opposite. He was relaxed, he was happy, he was in no rush, and he expressed respect and fondness for everyone. We were with Shuki for maybe 4 hours total, and Shuki alone made Israel a place I would want to return to.

Kowloon, Hong Kong
The evening tour was kind of hokey but a good view of Kowloon -- the neon signs and shops, the public housing and the few real homes for the wealthy. From there it was onto the bot, even more touristy (and empty) but it was a good view of the bay and Aberdeen. We missed our ride back to the hotel but the walk was short and pleasant.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 6, 1987 from Kowloon, Hong Kong

Austria
Innsbruck, Austria
Innsbruck
written by  shoshtrvls on August 9, 1980 from Innsbruck, Austria

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
This was our adventure stay. We started by visiting the falls, and then it was off to the Zambezi River, where we partook in various death-defying stunts, like the zip line and the gorge jump.
In the afternoon, we did an elephant safari -- not very interesting, but Ellery enjoyed being with the elephants.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 4, 2004 from Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

Ketchikan, United States
Our last port was Ketchikan, where we wandered around town and then I did a ropes and zip line course. All it took was some balance.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 25, 2005 from Ketchikan, United States

Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
This morning I went to the Argentine side of the falls, which was far more spectacular than the Brazilian side. First I did the "interior circuit," a trail which wanders through the jungle, passing under, over and through some of the falls. I also took a boat ride to the base of several of the falls, which was pretty spectacular. Unfortunately, by the time I began to return, the tourists had arrived. This made the remainder of the circuit, as well as the "superior circuit," which goes over the falls, a pain. Most spectacular, however, was "devil's throat," not even the other tourists could spoil looking down that raging water.
After the falls, I took a bus to the airport and flew to Rio. (At the bus station I had an interesting conversation with a Frenchman and an Argentine graphic designer).
written by  shoshtrvls on March 17, 1992 from Puerto Iguazu, Argentina

Brussels, Belgium
Day 8 took us back through Brussels on our way to London.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 27, 2003 from Brussels, Belgium

Viana do Castelo, Portugal
Viana-do-Castelo
written by  shoshtrvls on April 7, 1995 from Viana do Castelo, Portugal

Irakleion, Greece
Returning back to the center of Irakleion, I spent a few minutes in the Archeology Museum - a bit overwhelming with seemingly hundreds of identical bulls, vases, scarabs, etc., and the frescos upstairs were not particularly overwhelming as only small portions were real artifacts. Basically, these were all the originals from Knosos. The room of Roman sculpture looked to be the best, but it was closed for some unknown reason.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 4, 1993 from Irakleion, Greece

Marrakech, Morocco
The train ride was a dismal affair -- a very slow train, seeming to stop every time someone stood by the track and waived. Also, a 6 a.m. change in Caza didn't help. I finally arrived at about 11:30 a.m. and promptly checked into what must be the second most expensive hotel in the city (next to the Mamounia) -- credit cards accepted (running short of cash).
After a relaxing bath and short nap, I left a message for Fath before venturing out to the Djeema. Immediately beseiged by an "official" guide, I accepted his services. They weren't really needed; as it was Friday, only the marketplace and souks were open and these I could have handled on my own.
The Djeema was everything I expected, and I must return. The souks lack the charm of Fes, but deserve another look. I did see some nice pieces. However, the guide was good for at least one thing -- a restaurant. As I site here in the Restaurant de la Paix, among fountains and trees, I feel like I am in the mediterranean. The food is wonderful, the setting magnificent, and the prices right (although expensive for Morocco). Curiously, everyone here is speaking French -- a sign, I sppose, of wealth and upper class, but somehow distressing, as though Arabic was not good enough.
I think I will stay in Marrakech tomorrow (Saturday) and on Sunday go to Setti Fatima. Monday I will trek until my feet fall off (because I can't continue to pay for this hotel), returning Friday and then back home.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 24, 1991 from Marrakech, Morocco

Tongsa, Bhutan
From Wangdi we climbed (by car) to Pele La, a pass at 3420 meters. As with all the passes, it was covered with prayer flags and a chorten, which in this case marked the coundary between Western and Central Bhutan.
The roadsides were covered with bamboo and eventually we stopped to take a short walk through beautiful fields to a small village. It was wonderful to watch Ellery running on the path through the fields of mustard. Although we were hoping to see some yaks, they were much further up the mountains. In the village, we were treated to a tour of a real farmhouse -- much better than the folk museum.
Continuing by car, past women making and selling bamboo mats pressed by the passing cars and passing many waterfalls, we soon arrived at our lunch stop - a relatively new restaurant in the middle of nowhere.
More driving, until we eventually spotted Trongsa (Tongsa) Dzong hanging on top of a mountain. (At the viewpoint, Ellery lost her camera -- it was bound to happen). Although it seemed that we were close to Trongsa, it was another half an hour or so until we reached the dzong.
Unlike the other dzongs we visited, this one was almost completely empty, giving it a very different feel. We didn't stay there long before heading to our hotel, by far the nicest one to date. We weren't here alone -- a woman from the Netherlands working for the Department of Tourism was waiting for a group of 15 guides that she was going to take on a new trek. We had a very pleasant early evening sitting on the terrace, drinking coffee and talking. Dinner with Palden included a nice wine, and Ellery and Dorji are becoming fast friends.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 26, 2006 from Tongsa, Bhutan

Terowie, Australia
(see Quorn entry)
written by  shoshtrvls on April 4, 1990 from Terowie, Australia

A Day On The Road
Kansas City, United States
This will be a short update because today was nothing but a long, long, long day in the car, driving from Denver to Kansas City, Mo. Lots of driving, punctuated by only two stops of any note: Fort Hays, Kansas (where there is an EnerSys plant, and where my friend Katherine went to school) and the Brookville Hotel in Abeliene for the best fried Chicken dinner anywhere.
Oh, and we did stay at the same crappy Holiday Inn as the Kansas City Chiefs, back in training after the lock-out ended. Those are some big, big guys.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 26, 2011 from Kansas City, United States

Eastward Ho!
Saint Louis, United States
Yes, I’m a bit behind in the blogging, and the downside of that is that it is difficult to remember the details. Not the big stuff, but the little stuff like … where the hell were we on Wednesday?
Ah yes, we started in Kansas City, MO. And we drove east, arriving in St. Louis just around 10:00 a.m. I don’t recall anything about the drive, except that I believe it was rather unimaginative – nothing particularly beautiful or ugly. Just road.
The plan was to drive by the Arch, snap a few photos, and continue on to Memphis in time for the 5 p.m. duck walk at the Peabody Hotel (where I had decided we would spend the night, after our less-than-stellar Holiday Inn experience). But that Arch is pretty alluring – close up and in person, it is pretty magnificent. Since we had made good time, so up we went. (Actually, first you have to go down below the Arch, and then you take a pod-like tram to the top). And I realized that St. Louis is one hell of a big city. Really big. Oh, and the Mississippi River is pretty ugly down here, as compared to up North.
After the Arch we walked along a small historic Riverfront area (in need of some life), ate lunch and got back on the road. But, eeek! Would we make it by 5 p.m.? It was looking iffy but I was determined to make a go of it.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 27, 2011 from Saint Louis, United States

Marsh Harbour, The Bahamas
Day 6 was spent at sea, today was at Castaway Cay. Nice place. Totally contrived. But Ellery and I did get to check off another "adventure activity" -- parasailing.
written by  shoshtrvls on February 29, 2008 from Marsh Harbour, The Bahamas

Day 8 - Why Are You Taking Our Luggage?
Madaba, Jordan
Today started with a border crossing – the Allenby bridge between Israel and Jordan. We arrived at the bridge well before the 8 a.m. but still weren’t allowed to cross the first checkpoint until after 9 a.m. There was a definite pecking order: first the trucks went, and there were many of them, then the empty taxis and vans to pick people up crossing from Jordan, and there were many of them, and then yellow Palestinian shared taxis started to go, and there were many of them. And of course each vehicle had to be searched, the drivers had to show their papers, and everything had to be inspected. Fortunately, Shuki’s smile and pleas (“I have another job to pick up in Jerusalem – what will I do?”) got us through. Did I mention how much I liked Shuki?
At the Israeli side of the border, we were passed through rather quickly, but no one offered the slightest bit of help or explanation to the few of us travelers who clearly had not done this before. “Where do we go now?” “Why are you taking our luggage?” Eventually, we figured out that we had to take another shuttle bus to the Jordanian border crossing, a bus that didn’t leave for 45 minutes. Once on the bus, we were stopped twice for document checks and at the last our passports were taken.
Arriving in Jordan was a welcome sight. Mansur, our driver for the day, was there waiting for us and now we weren’t lost at all. He made sure our luggage got to the car, our passports were returned to us and all was right with the world.
We then began the drive down the Kings Highway, passing Bedouin camps and small villages, eventually arriving at our first stop, Mt. Nebo. Mr. Nebo is thought to be the place were Moses saw Israel before dying and like all other religious sites here in the Middle East, there were layers upon layers of the people who had come since – the Romans, the Byzantines, the Crusaders, the Muslims. There were some Roman excavations going on, and some beautiful Byzantine mosaics on display.
From Mt. Nebo we drove to the nearby town of Mandaba for lunch and a quick stop at St. George’s Church, known for its 6th Century mosaic of the Middle East. Not all of it remains but from what is there, you can tell that this was an extraordinary work.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 25, 2008 from Madaba, Jordan

It Just Keeps Getting Better
Panajachel, Guatemala
First, an apology ... unbeknownst to me, my camera battery was low and thus almost every picture I took today that wasn't in direct sunlight is blurry, so there'll be few pictures today.
The morning started with breakfast on the patio of our stunning hotel, and then continued with a walk through the gardens, where parrots and toucans looked on from overhead. From there, we road into town in one of the many tuk-tuks that ply the roads, and headed out for sea -- or rather, for lake.
The lake is routinely traversed by a variety of different types of boats. First, there are the flat-bottomed, traditional wood canoes used by the fisherman. Next are the launches that regularly cross the lake, takeing people from town to town, or even from a solitary dock to the next town. Like the collective minibuses, they ply the routes and pick up and drop off passengers along the way. And then there are the larger tour boats, and the smaller kayaks, all of which give the lake a unique charm.
We first took a launch to San Marcos La Laguna, a tiny village that must house about 30 yoga and spiritual retreats. There's nothing much there, but Ellery and I found a quite little bit of rocky beach and had an improptu swim in the lake.
Then we moved on to San Pedro La Laguna. Again, there wasn't much to the town, but it was well situated to take in the view of all three volcanos. Here we rented some horses and while the landscape was not particularly pretty or interesting, it had the benefit of having horses that could actually be riden (as opposed to being brainwashed trail horses) and Ellery for the first time experienced the comfort of cantering and the joy of riding without restraints.
The third and last village we visited was the largest and most interesting, Santiago Atitlan. The residents of Santiago speak only a Mayan language; very few spoke even Spanish. And the dress was also unique -- men wore white pants with birds and flowers embroidered on them; women wore head dresses that were what appeared to be very long red belts wrapped around their heads. The main path from the dock was lined with the usual assortments of shops and stalls, although with the addition of art galleries featuring paintings in traditional Mayan style.
And just out of town was what has to be one of the most bizarre religious shrines I've ever seen -- a small little building housing the evil spirit of Maximon. Maximon is a wooden figure festooned with silk ties ... yes, silk ties and scarves. There's a cigar in his mouth and two ashrays at this sides. And the Mayans bring him offerings. Really, really strange. (And I'm particularly upset that this picture of him is also blurry, since I paid a good Q5 to take it).
From there we went to the Church, dating from the 1500's. Again ... not your typical sight. The wooden sculptures of the saints were covered in garish fabrics and the really special ones were wearing, yes, ties.
After a visit to the produce market in Santiago, we returned across the lake, taking in some last beautiful vistas before leaving this paradise and taking a minibus to Antigua. The road to Antigua has little of note along the way; even worse, at one point you pass through the ubiquitous third-world urban sprawl of concrete buildings that are either falling down or unfinished (you can never tell), piles of trash along the roads, and huge trucks spewing out black smoke from their tailpipes. I confess, I feared that this was a preview to Antigua, but I was very wrong. At least, I think I'm wrong.
We arrived in Antigua after dark, and just as it started to pour, so thus far we've seen only our hotel, but what a hotel it is. A 16th century palace just off the main square, very recently redone as a luxury hotel. The rooms surround a Spanish style courtyard, with open air hallways lined with comfortable couches ... one of which I am sitting on right now, finishing up this installment of our travels.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 31, 2009 from Panajachel, Guatemala

Peterborough, Australia
(see Quorn entry)
written by  shoshtrvls on April 4, 1990 from Peterborough, Australia

Jakar, Bhutan
This morning consisted of another beautiful drive up to the highest pass we'll encounter, Yotong La. From there we headed down into the Bumthang region.
The first calley we came to was Chhume, which at the time was without water or electricity. We stopped only briefly here at a weaving facility before heading over Kiki La to Jakar in the Choskhor Valley.
Our first stop was Tamshing Goemba, with probably the oldest wall paintings we've seen yet. But most amazing was a sand mandolin being worked on by one of the monks. It is truly a shame that I couldn't take a photo of it. And, sadly, it won't be preserved -- after a ceremony in which it is used, it is scattered to the wind. Also inside was a large colleciton of masks, drums and black hats used during the festivals.
We then drove by a small temple with a monolith in front (konchogsum), said to be one of the oldest in the valley. From there we went to the dzong, which was rather empty and far simpler than the others we've seen. Then we went to Kurjey Lkakhang, where the main temple featured the imprint of Guru Rimpoche in the mountain. Next was Jampa Lhakhang, another very old temple with a "mate" in Paro (Kyichu).
Our next stop was one of the funniest. Walking around an old abandoned palace, Wangdichholing, we noticed several young monks running up a flight of stairs. We followed, passing many pairs of abandoned sandals. Eventually, passing through two rooms, we came upon the young monks -- all huddled around a television watching a Bollywood movie! Apparently, they were taking advantage of the fact that their master was away.
We then took a short walk through the town of Jakar until reaching the final stop of the day, Kharchu Monastery, where we were met by another surprise -- two comedians entertaining the monks. Ellery danced around to their music and I think was as much of a show for the monks as were the comedians.
At evening, we were joined at the hotel by a couple from Italy (although she was originally from Malaga, Spain) and had enjoyable conversation until bed.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 27, 2006 from Jakar, Bhutan

Bursa, Turkey
I woke up early and Mark was still asleep, so I snuck out to survey Bursa on my own. I spent a few hours wandering through the market area, watching the shop-keepers set up their stalls of fruits, vegetables, nuts, and flowers -- a bounty like I've never seen before. (Apparently, Turkey is one of only three or four countries that actually exports food). Eventually, I found my way to the main mosque, Ulu Camii, and the bazaar, where I picked up some camel-hide shadow puppets -- a well-known local art form. I then returned to the hotel for Mark and returned once again to the bazaar for his wandering pleasure.
From the center of town we went to Uludag, a suburb of Bursa, and took the cable car up to the top of the local Mt. Olympus. Although it was June, there was plenty of snow to be seen among the grassy valleys and pine-tree covered peaks. At the top of the cable car were several small outdoor eateries featuring mostly lamb kabobs grilled tableside. Mark and I selected one for lunch and then took a short hike through the woods before catching the last cable car back into town.
Mark then went back to the bazaar (practicing his "Kash pura?" all the way) while I checked out two more mosques. By this time I was, of course, about as mosqued-out as possible, but the small Green Mosque was definitely worth seeing for the tile work alone, as was the Green Mausoleum nearby which houses the tomb of Mehmet I and his children.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 6, 1996 from Bursa, Turkey

Shanghai, China
Another day spent mostly in transit, flying from Hong Kong to Shanghai. The flight was short but what with customs, getting to and from the airports, etc., it becomes an all day affair.
Arriving in Shanghai, we checked into our hotel (the Shanghai hotel!) which was somewhat outside of the town. We then took a cab to the Bund, the strip of land running along the harbor. We arrived in time to catch the 7 p.m. harbor cruise. Buying tickets was not too difficult once we figured out where to do it (and that there was a boat leaving at 7). We were ushered upstairs to an air-conditioned room and served watermelon (a very popular item in China), beef jerky and cold coffee.
The boat ride, not very interesting in itself as the Wangpu River is pretty ugly, was my first introduction to two very persisten influences on Chinese life -- the Cultural Revolution and the one-child policy. In the first class lounge was a horrible band composed of five forty year olds playing the worst renditions of American standards. The trumpet player was the worst and it was nearly impossible to tell what was being played. There was really only one explanation that I could figure -- the musicians were older because they learned to play before the cultural revolution and the poor quality can be attributed to the lack of contact with the west. This is really just a guess but the old men-band music syndrome appeared several times during the trip.
s for the children, they are the most adorable, well-behaved things, with their big brown eyes and killer smiles. What's so interesting is the amount of attention heaped on them, the boys especially (and there seem to be many more boys than girls !?). They are never left alone. Fathers are always holding their sons, either in their arms or on the front of their bicycles. You really notice that everyone has just one child -- a couple with two really stands out. Further, they seem to be potty trained as soon as they can stand. Only the tiniest babies are suitably attired - in pants with slits down the middle! No diapers (too dirty) -- mom just cleans up afterwards.
Back to the boat, in the lower deck there was an acrobatics and magic show on the way back. We missed the first part but managed to catch the magic performed by an amusing (but hardly flashy) middle-aged man. And his assistant was far from the scantily clad young girl we're used to in the west. But the routine was a good one and the audience of children was as interesting as the show itself.
The advertised 3-1/2 hour cruise was only 2-1/2 hours but came with souvenir hankies and pins. Besides, 9:30 is still relatively late Chinese-time, where dinner is eaten at 5 and restaurants close by 8 (stores too). No nightlife at all -- after the cruise we popped our heads into the Peace Hotel jazz bar -- really dead, so back to the hotel we trotted and went to sleep (when in Rome ...)
written by  shoshtrvls on August 7, 1987 from Shanghai, China

Chania, Greece
I had begun to dispair that I had wasted my vacation in a country of little interest to me. But as my bus left Irakleion and headed toward Chania, the picture brightened. Snow-capped mountains loomed above, sheep and goat herds stood against the hills and white beaches and blue water lay below.
Arrive in Chania was uneventful and at first I began to doubt the guidebook. However, slowly, I made my way through the new city, into the old city and finally to the small, enchanting, this-can't-possibly-be-real harbour. More Venetian than Greek (as I had been warned), this harbour could not have been built better by Disney or 20th Century Fox. Even better, I found myself the perfect room -- wooden floors, whitewashed walls, a deck and an incredibly view of the harbour. As I told the woman from Boston who appeared to own the place, I was sure I had gone to heaven.
And now I am sitting in a harbour-side cafe, eating shrimp and watching the sun go down. Vacation.
(Big mistake -- buying a pack of cigarettes. So seductive and addictive).
written by  shoshtrvls on May 4, 1993 from Chania, Greece

Marrakech, Morocco
Another wonderful day in the neighborhood.
After convincing the concierge that I was capable of walking by myself to the Saadian Tombs. I was given instructions and did just that -- although not as directly as I had hoped. Although I passed it once and ended up wandering through the Kasbah, eventually I got there and they were indeed quite lovely. From there i made my way to Bodi Palace, but it was closed for renovation. (My luck with edifices has not been too good).
From there I went to the Sar Si Said Museum but along the way I stopped at probably the only active synagogue in Morocco, and what a find! Only about 10 men and one woman (who looked just like Grandma Elaine). The Rabbi invited me to his home to eat after the services, and offer I could not refuse.
But first, the museum -- the best yet. A wonderful garden in the middle with spectacular rooms all around, particularly on the second level. The woodwork and stucco was truly magnificent.
Now, back to the rabbi. It was a beautiful house, nothing like the poverty described in the book. And the Sabbath table was laid out beautifully. I was offered more food than was humanly possible to eat -- and wine as well. I must admit that I got a bit drunk.
The house was the first one I had seen with books -- all in Hebrew. The rabbi was, like all good rabbis should be -- warm and friendly, humorous and kind. His family equally so. Truly a pleasure, and yet another side of Morocco. (Sadly, the guide who took me to the synagogue demanded more money than the agreed-upon $5 dh -- when I refused, he said, "you are a true jew" -- cutting, but also ironic considering that he ws the one trying to extract money from me).
After my midday meal, I went to the Bahia Palace. Although larger than Dar Si Said and maybe at one time grander, it certainly lacked by comparison. Additionally, I was forced to take on a guide who spoke no English. A nice fellow but no real help with information.
From there it was back to the souks and a view of the Medersa (nothing spectacular), the Koubba and some fountain not even worth a picture. Hassles were surprisingly few as I made my way through the various alleys.
Then it was bck to the hotel for a relaxing swim in the pool. Met Fath's nephew Sam (who was waiting for me when I got back to the hotel) for a long walk and talk -- very nice guy with interesting views. Also obviously very wealthy. He suggested a restaurant for dinner -- Catanzaro -- another obviously trendy place like the night before where everyone spoke French. What a contrast to the reality of the Medinas.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 25, 1991 from Marrakech, Morocco

Ponte do Lima, Portugal
Ponte do Lima it is.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 8, 1995 from Ponte do Lima, Portugal

London, United Kingdom
We arrived in London no worse for wear and checked into our hotel in Knightsbridge.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 27, 2003 from London, United Kingdom

Vancouver, Canada
After leaving the ship, Ellery and I spent the day in Vancouver, mostly at the Fair.
Finally, we saw animals!
Ellery also had her first bunji experiences and a bit of juggling capped off the trip.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 27, 2005 from Vancouver, Canada

Livingstone, Zambia
I was up with the sun, and did what I had come to do ... I bungi jumped off the Zambezi Bridge. First jump of the day and it was a great way to end the trip.
Then it was time to start the long journey home, flying first back to Johannesburg.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 5, 2004 from Livingstone, Zambia

Italy
Venice
written by  shoshtrvls on August 9, 1980 from Venice, Italy

Wasilla, United States
Next, we headed up to Wasilla and stopped at Lynda Plettner's Dog Kennel, our first musher's camp.
Then we visited the official starting point of the Iditarod Dog Sled Race.
That was followed up by an easy little hike to Thunderbird Falls and back.
That evening, we saw Hillary Clinton at our hotel!
written by  shoshtrvls on August 16, 2005 from Wasilla, United States

A Little Night Music
Memphis, United States
We crossed into Arkansas – quick, stop for a photo, but keep moving. We crossed into Tennessee – quick, stop for a photo, but keep moving. Yes, we were going to make it, with 3 minutes to spare (seriously) when, disaster struck in the form of … a wrong turn. Yes, a single wrong turn got us to the Peabody at 5:10, minutes after the ducks had departed for the evening. Sigh … well, there was still tomorrow.
So, we checked in, went to the rooftop for a view of Memphis, and then I had my annual meat fix at the Rendez-Vous. Bar-be-que that was definitely worth it.
Then we headed to Beale Street. Everything I remembered and more – the more in this case being Bike Night, a Wednesday night tradition. Hundreds of bikers and bikes. Plus the usual streetside musicians, beer garden bands, and wandering crowds. And “Sitting on the Dock of the Bay” being played and sung at every single bar up and down the street. Really, Memphis didn’t turn out any other song? None?
Well, tomorrow includes a stop at Graceland, so we’ll see if there isn’t another tune or two around.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 27, 2011 from Memphis, United States

Duck Walk
Memphis, United States
We did more today than I ever expected.
Up early, our goal was to see the National Civil Rights Museum first thing in the morning, then head back to the hotel for the 11:00 a.m. duck walk, and from there to Graceland. So, we took the Main Street trolley down to the Lorraine Motel and were there well in advance of the opening time. And yes, I felt very guilty that we rushed through the museum in an hour and a half – it was well worth a longer trip, but Ellery was determined to see the ducks and, well, I wasn’t going to let her down. But, there was a lot to be had in that hour and a half – I had forgotten how well-done the exhibits were, and there was a half-hour film about MLK, Jr.’s last days that was really very good. In the end, the only part of the museum that we gave short shrift to was the portion in the building where James Earl Ray took his shot, dealing with his capture and prosecution.
We did make it back to the Peabody in time for the duck walk, which Ellery dutifully captured on video. It was, indeed, quite fun and I’m glad we saw it.
Then it was back on the road, just a few Miles, to Graceland. Is it wrong that we spent more time at Graceland than at the Civil Rights Museum? Probably, but Graceland is so over-the-top, so kitchy fun, how can you not take the time to see all the gaudiness that was Elvis?
written by  shoshtrvls on July 28, 2011 from Memphis, United States

Matanuska Glacier, United States
Day Three again too us north of Anchorage, heading toward Palmer, this time to the Matanuska Glacier and a float/rafting trip from its terminus. I have to admit, this was the first time I had ever rafted with warm weather gear on.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 17, 2005 from Matanuska Glacier, United States

A Day of Rest
Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Today, we took the day off. Or at least, managed to stay in one town for a full day. Antigua, the historical capital of Guatemala, is the very definition of Spanish colonial. Like Atitlan, it is surrounded by volcanoes. The street scene consists of stucco structures with red clay roofs, and all one sees is walls and wooden doors. But inside each door is a beautiful courtyard, with a fountain in the center and businesses lining the gardens. Jewelry stores, cafes, art galleries, handcraft shops ... it's all here.
We started the day, as we always do, wandering the local market. Here, while the food and produce was mostly sold in the typical crowded maze with tarps overhead, the rest was along much wider paths, open to the sky. Here, the market backs up to the chicken bus station, and the array of brightly colored buses was as much a treat as the bright fruits and vegetables.
After the market, we did the historic church/monastery/convent tour, stopping at the Church in the Parque Central, Las Capuchinas Convent, La Merced (which houses a fabulous museum of ecclesiastic art), and the Church of San Francisco. All of these buildings, whose origins are deep in the 16th and 17th centuries, have been partially destroyed as a result of several large earthquakes and yet, the fact that they are mostly in ruins simply adds to the atmosphere.
Two items of note: first, in one of the markets, an American began talking to Ellery -- the type of American I will never become. A bit of dialogue revealed the following: he's a former marine, he moved to Guatemala because he didn't want to pay "those ridiculous taxes" (HELLO ... who paid your salary when you were in the service?), Obama is going to decide who my doctor will be, and .... the man speaks barely a word of Spanish after being here for over a year. How is that possible? I wouldn't have believed him had he not gotten into a car bearing license plates from ... Pennsylvania. I am shamed.
The other item is more humorous. After our church-in-ruins tour, Ellery and I stopped at a cafe in the Parque Central. We oohed and aahed at the pastries in the case but, having just eaten lunch, resisted them. Good thing too, because as I was sipping my cappuccino, I saw one of the barristas remove a packaged frozen cheesecake from The Cheesecake Factory and slide it into the pastry case!
Tonight will be an early one for Els and I because tomorrow is a long one; at 4 a.m. we leave for Copan in Honduras, and from there to Puerto Barrios and on to Livingston for the night, before returning to Puerto Barrios for the boat back into Belize.
Oh, and finally, this hotel rocks. An incredible building, incredible rooms, incredible service, all very understated and comfortable. The perfect twin to our hotel in Atitlan.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 1, 2009 from Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala

Day 8 (continued) - Grand Canyon, Jordan Edition
Al Karak, Jordan
We followed the Kings Highway further to Mujib, a most impressive canyon, nearly the equal of the Grand Canyon. My pictures simply do not do it justice (which is why I haven’t posted any).
Then it was on to the fort at Karak, a magnificent, imposing structure. Unlike the various sites in Israel, Karak seemed to be a living presence – there were Bedouins with their camels and horses inside the castle, and very little to get in the way between the history and the place itself. We wandered for quite a bit through the underground tunnels and the high walls, taking it all in.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 25, 2008 from Al Karak, Jordan

Italy
Rome
written by  shoshtrvls on August 9, 1980 from Rome, Italy

Orlando, United States
Home again, home again.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 1, 2008 from Orlando, United States

Johannesburg, South Africa
Johannesburg is not the greatest city in the world, but returning to our hotel, the Westcliff, made it a lot more bearable.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 5, 2004 from Johannesburg, South Africa

This day consisted of a lot of walking and sight-seeing, including the Buckingham Palace, Hyde Park, the Tower of London, Herrod's, and much more.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 28, 2003 from London, United Kingdom

Petropolis, Brazil
my thoughts upon looking at the (very few) pictures I took --
This was a day trip from Rio. A colonial town with canals and magnificent architecture.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 19, 1992 from Petropolis, Brazil

Ponte da Barca, Portugal
Ponte da Barca was the next stop.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 8, 1995 from Ponte da Barca, Portugal

Chania, Greece
This is what vacations are all about, just usually not mine. After a rather quick breakfast, I spent the morning sitting on my balcony, reading deposition transcripts and thinking that this was the perfect way to prepare for trial.
Shortly after noon I took a walkabout to the archeological museum, the nearby beach, through various alleys, and the market, and continued my unsuccessful search for a boat, any boat, to take me out for an hour or two.
Eventually I returned to my balcony and completed my depo reading. A brief name and then back into the world of dinner and coffee. I am now implanted in a cafe by the outer harbour contemplating the world.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 5, 1993 from Chania, Greece

Asni, Morocco
The next day was straight out of an American Express ad/national geographic magazine story. First, I took a collective taxi to Asni -- a winding road with a driver determined to make everyone sick, and succeeded with at least one little boy. Asni was nothing, not even quaint.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 26, 1991 from Asni, Morocco

Shanghai, China
Out first real day of China, but first things first – CITS to make further plans, but about all that could be done was booking my boat from Shanghai to Hong Kong. However, we were given directions to the ticket office for the ferry up the Yanggze to Nanjing. It seemed neither far nor difficult so off we went.
Well, the place the CITS person indicated on the map was not the right office and despite the attempts to several well meaning Chinese, we got quite lost and ended up wandering through the French Concession and the old city. It was fascinating! People selling eels in the middle of the street, tying pigeons onto bicycles to take home for dinner – an entirely different world impossible to describe. And so many things I didn’t understand – men with what appeared to be dried snakes and fluffy things – fortune-telling of some kind? Even the main road was interesting with the thousands of bicyclists carrying just about everything on back.
Finally, we found the ticket office – an unmarked building, bike park below, tickets upstairs. With a little ingenuity and some help from a native or two, we were finally able to buy tickets for the following day. On the way back, Barbara decided to stop at a streetside shoe repair and have heels put on her shoes. By the time the shoemaker had finished, a small crowd had developed, with each person giving the shoemaker different advice.
From there we decided to walk to Shanghai Mansions and catch the view from atop (highly rated by lonely Planet). Along the way, we discovered the Friendship Store, China’s version of the Berioska. I bought one piece of jade, some ducks and bookmarks, while Barbara agonized over a large carpet (which she later bought).
Finally we made it to the mansions and yes, the view was marvelous, although a bit overcast. Then we grabbed a cab to the vicinity of the Park Hotel where the acrobatics dome was located. However, despite all our best efforts (and attempted bribes) we were unable to buy tickets, having been told that all shows were sold out for the next two weeks. (Highly unlikely, but other westerners were being told the same thing). Forced to accept defeat, we wandered back to the Park Hotel, stopping in music and department stores along the way. We also caught a glimpse of the Chinese version of three-card monte using bowls and balls (like the famous magic trick). While Barbara rested at the Park Hotel, I wandered around People’s Park – nothing special, but a nice walk around. Then it was back to the Friendship store so Barbara could buy her rug (I think) and the hotel.
For dinner we went to the Jinjang Hotel in the outer French Concession – obviously the nicer part of town. The meal was great (I mean, really good) and throughout we flirted with four men at the next table. They weren’t particularly attractive but interesting looking, and speaking a language neither Barbara nor I could place. Finally, when they were done with their meal they came over – Portuguese engineers from Macau. How boring! They invited us to meet them at the Peace Hotel Jazz Bar later that evening but having seen what a hopping place it was the night before, we declined. Instead, we walked around the hotel grounds a bit, eventually ending up in the hotel bar where, who should we meet but the four Portuguese. We joined them for a few drinks and they were really quite nice. We discussed the state of China politics and received much helpful advice on traveling through Portugal and Morocco. We were even invited to look them up if ever in Macau. All in all, a nice evening.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 8, 1987 from Shanghai, China

Ura, Bhutan
Today we headed for Ura, another beautifully scenic drive, with views of all four valleys in Bumthang. We skipped the burning lake because the walk was too dangerous for Ellery. (Notes: goats, mani wall at pass).
In Ura, we stopped first at the monastery, where a crowd was gathered in the courtyard to elect a new caretaker. Walking through the town, we happened upon a ritual for someone's health; corn, grain, meat and mushrooms drying; a woman beating wheat from the stalk; and another old woman spinning thread. And Ellery somehow managed to find the only western toilet in town.
Then we went to the local school where Dorji's sister is a student. We visited several classes. As in Africa, we were surrounded by school children who wanted their photos taken.
A picnic on the side of the road on the way back and a stop at a second school where Ellery played soccer with the children rounded out the side trip.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 28, 2006 from Ura, Bhutan

Orroroo, Australia
(see Quorn entry)
written by  shoshtrvls on April 4, 1990 from Orroroo, Australia

Yakutat, United States
OK, we didn't really go to Yakutat (it probably would have made the day much more interesting), but passed by it on our way to Glacier Bay.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 21, 2005 from Yakutat, United States

San Miguel de Cozumel, Mexico
Today we stopped in Cozumel and took an "excursion" (man, I hate these cruise excursions) to the ruins at Tulum. They were actually very interesting but unfortunately there wasn't a lot of time to explore or, more importantly, enjoy the beautiful little beach.
written by  shoshtrvls on February 27, 2008 from San Miguel de Cozumel, Mexico

Down Under
Mammoth Cave, KY, United States
Up until this morning, we really had no plans for after Memphis, just the quickest route home. But then I noticed that Mammoth Cave in Kentucky was a possibility. The longest known cave in the world, it couldn’t be missed. So that’s where we headed, arriving at the delightfully run-down, old-fashioned Mammoth Cave Hotel within the National Park (this was our 11th National Park of the trip, in case you’re counting) well after dark, where we were greeted by a small snake at our front door. After shooing him away, we made it inside just in time to fall fast asleep.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 28, 2011 from Mammoth Cave, KY, United States

More Caving
Mammoth Cave, KY, United States
Mammoth Cave National Park is, quite simply, gorgeous. It may actually be my favorite of all the parks we’ve seen; so lush and green and, even more importantly, so full of life. I don’t think I’ve heard as many birds, as many crickets, as many bugs anywhere else.
After a short hike around, we walked to the visitor’s Center shortly after it opened, and good thing we did as many of the tours were sold out well in advance, and those that hadn’t been were selling out fast. But, we were able to get tickets for the one we wanted, the two hour “Heritage Tour.”
Well, Mammoth Cave is spectacular, by far my favorite cave to date (although Ellery still prefers The Caves we saw in Belize). And the tour was great; the Ranger described in wonderful detail how people have been touring the cave, and writing their names on the walls and ceilings, since the early 1800’s. And the fact that it was cool in the cave – compared to the 100 degrees plus temperatures that have followed us throughout this trip – was an added bonus.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 29, 2011 from Mammoth Cave, KY, United States

Glacier Bay, United States
Today we cruised through Glacier Bay and it was finally somewhat warm enough for Ellery to swim in the ship's pool.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 22, 2005 from Glacier Bay, United States

A Long Day, Well Worth It
Copan, Honduras
(September 2) Once again, we were up well before dawn. Amazingly, so was the staff at our wonderful hotel, who had prepared us breakfast at 3:30 a.m.! Now that's service.
Shortly after 4 a.m., Gustavo, our driver for this leg of the journey (too much to do in one day by bus) arrived and we loaded up, heading for Copan, Honduras. Ellery and I slept for the first few hours, but eventually woke up for a second roadside breakfast around 9 a.m. During this break, we had time to chat with Gustavo, an adorable guy who spoke terrific English, thanks in large part to his having visited his sister in Atlanta every year.
Crossing the border into Honduras was fairly straight-forward, owing in large part to the fact that visitors to Guatemala often make this journey to Copan. And it is definitely worth the side trip.
Copan is very different than Tikal, and we had a great guide, Juan Carlos, to show us around. Because the stone in Copan is hardened by the lava of the volacnoes, unlike Tikal, much of the carvings are in terrific condition. So, while the scale is not the same, the quality is supurb -- Mayan kings, serpants, and jaguars all come to life on the massive stones. Just as facinating is the history of the excavations, including the diversion of the Copan River, which had been erroding much of the site. Copan also has a fantastic on-site museum, where many of the sculptures are displayed.
After about 3 hours in Copan, we proceeded to Puerto Barrios, on the Carribean coast. Again, the landscape changes were very evident as we returned to the land of tropical plants, cowboys and thatched roof huts. Still, not all was unfamiliar -- at Ellery's request, we stopped for lunch at a McDonald's.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 2, 2009 from Copan, Honduras

Day 8 (continued) - Which Way To Petra?
Wadi Musa, Jordan
Finally we arrived in Wadi Musa, the town just outside of Petra. After a brief stop at the tour office to make arrangements for the balance of our trip in Jordan, we settled into our hotel, the Taybet Zaman, built in a reconstructed old Turkish settlement, where the Stone houses had been converted to rooms, and the entire place had the feel of history.
Yet, it was clear that Wadi Musa (and the hotel) have felt the difficulties of the last 5 years – things are looking a bit ragged, a bit tired, a bit empty. The Iraq War has not been kind to places like this, or the people who live here. According to Ali, who arranged our trip, not so long ago Wadi Musa was full of life, with people from all over the world coming in droves, filling the hotels, crowding into the cafes and restaurants, and buying souvenirs from the shops. And while there were plenty of visitors to Petra, Wadi Musa seems to have become a very sleepy little town.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 25, 2008 from Wadi Musa, Jordan

Wilmington, Australia
(See Quorn entry)
written by  shoshtrvls on April 4, 1990 from Wilmington, Australia

Jakar, Bhutan
Returning to the hotel, I took a short hike to a very small village above the hotel, passing many children also wanting their photos taken. Palden looked through our purchases from Thimphu -- clearly from the look on his face, I overpaid for the dagger but probably got my money's worth for the prayer book.
The evening capped off wonderfully. Ellery made some friends and taught them tag and then they had a "play date" in our room where they drew pictures for one another and Ellery shared some of the toys that she had brought on the trip while our Italian friends cooked a terrific pasta dinner with "fixings" they had brought from home. And finally Ellery ate something other than rice!
written by  shoshtrvls on August 28, 2006 from Jakar, Bhutan

Kutahya, Turkey
Late in the afternoon we caught a bus to our next destination, Kutayha. The scenery along the way was beautiful--the fields that produced all the fruits, vegetables and flowers I had seen in the market in Bursa filled the landscape. Along the way, Mark and I munched on cookies and the sweetest strawberries and cherries I've ever tasted -- purchased in Bursa for about a dime a pound. Our arrival in Kutayha was late, so finding a hotel wasn't easy, but eventually we did and sacked out for the night.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 6, 1996 from Kutahya, Turkey

Shanghai, China
First a trip to the Jade Buddha Temple – our first real temple. It was crammed full with people, mostly Chinese and most actually praying. Lots of interesting people and customs – incense burning, coins being placed on a bell, parents teaching their children how to pray. But with all the tourists and children, it was hard to take this as a serious place of worship, which it was (complete with monks). As for the architecture and idols, they were interesting but not spectacular – it was really the people who were worth looking at.
Then it was back to the hotel to check out and off to the boat, with a quick stop at Yuyuan Bazaar and Wuxingting Teahouse (the adjoining gardens were cloed). Again, it was the sidestreets that were most interesting – laundry hanging from balconies, men sitting in doorways, etc.
We got to the boat in plenty of time, were escorted to our cabin and were asked to pay for our meals – dinner and breakfast. At this point we realized the boat was definitely going to take longer than expected – about 12 hours longer. Oh well.
The boat was definitely divided by classes, with sentries at the stairs and gates on the decks. We weren’t on the boat more than 10 minutes when laundry began hanging from every conceivable place. The only interesting people in our section were three guys from southern China, one of whom worked in Hong Kong. They were definitely three cool dudes, jeans and sneakers, but spoke very little English so the afternoon was spent making very laborious small talk. But they were very friendly – one even challenged me to arm wrestle and I did okay. Traveling with them were two crickets which Barbara named Tarzan and Jane. It took a while but they eventually got it.
Unfortunately, the only scenery was factories and boat – dinner was a welcome diversion. While we were the only two who paid for the special meal, it was well worth it. Quite good but,even more surprising was how it looked – gorgeous. A fish with its tail up, a rabbit made out of eggs, really an unexpected treat. (Locals brought their own bowls and shared community noodles – quite usual in China.)
written by  shoshtrvls on August 9, 1987 from Shanghai, China

Imlil, Morocco
(see second Imlil entry)
written by  shoshtrvls on May 26, 1991 from Imlil, Morocco

Koumaries, Greece
Another fine day, too bad it will be my last. After checking out of my excellent pension, I splurged and rented an adorable little fiat for a drive around the western side of the island -- a monastery tour one might call it.
First I drove to the north -- Akrontiri Penninsula, and visited three monasteries. The first, Ayia Triadha, was everything a Greek monastery should be -- quiet, shaded, roses in bloom, black-frocked priests wandering about. The place was being refurbished but somehow it seemed appropriate -- the new frescos as one-dimensional as the old.
Further on was the second monastery, Gouvernetou, similar to the first in just about every way. Not as lush, however behind was a path leading down, first to a cave and some ruins, then further to the remains of an abandoned 16-17th century monastery -- Katholiko. Here I was all alone and savored the beauty of the rocky mountains, blue ocean, sky, etc. The climb back up made me work, and in the end I knew that I had gotten in the day's exercise.
Next I headed for Stavros, a tiny lagoon with a nice beach. On the way I stopped at Irene's tavern, highly recommended by the car rental agent, (who didn't hold my passport, credit card, or anything) and well worth it. Great garlic chicken.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 6, 1993 from Koumaries, Greece

Arcos de Valdevez, Portugal
Another stop on the way.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 8, 1995 from Arcos de Valdevez, Portugal

Buzios, Brazil
Another day trip -- Buzios is a small fishing village but also well known for its beautiful beaches. If I recall correctly, I went on a boat that took us snorkeling.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 20, 1992 from Buzios, Brazil

Our last day, and we capped the trip off with a ride on the London Eye, some time in Jubilee Gardens, and a walk to Westminster Abbey and Big Ben.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 29, 2003 from London, United Kingdom

Soweto, South Africa
Our last day in South Africa, we took a tour of Soweto.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 6, 2004 from Soweto, South Africa

Italy
Florence, Italy
Florence
written by  shoshtrvls on August 9, 1980 from Florence, Italy

Margerie Glacier, United States
Eventually we arrived at Margerie Glacier, and everyone came out to take pictures.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 22, 2005 from Margerie Glacier, United States

Almost Heaven, Almost Home
Sutton, United States
Leaving Mammoth Cave, we started heading for home. But … wait … there’s more! What’s that sign ahead? Lincoln’s birthplace awaits!
So, a quick diversion there, and back on the road. And what a road! Through Versailles and Lexington, some of the most beautiful horse country I could have imagined, and then through the Allegheny Mountains of West Virginia, finally stopping for the night in a huge Days Motel on the top of a hill that appears to cater to the hundreds of people who come to this lake region for a weekend (or more) of recreation.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 29, 2011 from Sutton, United States

Home Sweet Home
Philadelphia, United States
There’s nothing more to say. No stops today – we were homeward bound and nothing was stopping us.
Final Stats: 19 Days, 19 States, 12 National Parks, 3 World Heritage Sites, 2 Cars, 5,982 Miles!
written by  shoshtrvls on July 30, 2011 from Philadelphia, United States

Haines, United States
We took a side excursion to Haines to visit the eagle preserve, where we saw swans and nests and eventually even a few bald eagles.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 23, 2005 from Haines, United States

Garifuna!
Livingston, Guatemala
Gustavo dropped us off at the dock in Puerto Barrios where we hopped on a skiff taking us to where we would spend the night, Livingston. Livingston is a tiny town at the mouth of the Rio Dulce and, I confess, there's little to recommend it. The "capital" of Garifuna culture, it's little more than a main drag, a few tattered restaurants, and a few even more tattered hotels. Garifuna is similar to reggae, and clearly music is very important to the people here. And the language is certainly a unique one -- not Spanish, not a Mayan dialect, not English -- it's unlike anything I've heard before.
Anyway, our housing options were limited and night had fallen, so we ended up staying at what was probably the most tattered of "hotel" of them all. Without going into details, suffice it to say, it was the opposite of where we had been and where we were going. We slept on top of the sheets and didn't use the bathroom (which we paid extra for). It was, however, less than $9 for the night.
However, the stop was worthwhile simply for seeing the place, and for meeting Phillipe. Phillipe appeared at first to be your average hustler, trying to get us to buy things, taking us to hotels and restaurants where he would receive a kick-back from the proprieters. But, he was facinating in his own right. If his stories hadn't been so detailed, including facts that you had to live to know, I wouldn't have believed him, and I'm still not sure I do. But Phillipe, born and raised in Livingston, found himself with admission and a scholarship to the University of Illinois thanks to the local priest. With a dual degree in music and environmental sciences, he went to work for the US Navy at Point Mugu in California. But neither navy life, nor life of a scientist suited him, so he went back to music, playing all up and down the west coast and in Mexico. Eventually, he returned home, and found himself hanging out with Jerry Garcia. (I checked out this last one and apparently the "rumor" of Garcia hiding out in Livingston is not just Phillipe's). In any event, whether any of this is true or not is almost beside the point; Phillipe was a great story-teller and made the night a most interesting one.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 2, 2009 from Livingston, Guatemala

Day 9 - Yeah, It Belongs On The List of Wonders
Wadi Musa, Jordan
This was one of the most spectacular days I’ve ever had traveling.
We started early in the morning, before 8 a.m., and headed directly to Petra. At the entrance, we were met by our guide for the day, Mohammed. Although we would not have done so ourselves, the tour company had arranged for us to ride a horse to the opening of the Siq, the narrow canyon that hides Petra from the world. All started well, with me and Ellery on the same horse. I guess we looked so comfortable that the horseman handed me the rope reins. We walked on for a bit and then I lifted my camera to take a picture, which resulted in the reins falling on the horse’s neck. Big mistake, as the horse immediately took off at a fast pace. Ellery and I held on for as long as we could but it was no use; eventually we both tumbled off onto the hard, stony ground. I was a quite scraped and bruised; Ellery fared much better, and we soon were back on our horse for the rest of the way.
As we entered the Siq, Mohammed did a wonderful job of explaining the history of Petra, the various small carvings and water canals hidden in the walls. I told Ellery that at some point we would come to a corner and she would be amazed. I didn’t realize that, even having seen photos and movies, I would also be amazed. Mohammed told us to close our eyes and then pulled us to just the right point, where the massive Treasury building just comes into sight through the rocks.
Really, no words can describe the sight that unfolds in front of your eyes – and it isn’t just the iconic treasury building. Petra is vast and there is no way to see it all in one visit. After the Siq, a wide path opens and all around, on every mountain, is another building carved into the side – they are up high in the mountain and down low underground. For once, the crowds seem to actually enhance the experience, as everyone walks, open-mouthed and wide-eyed.
Again, like Karak, Petra is alive. Along the path are stalls selling trinkets, places to sit and have a glass of tea, and offers of donkey and camel rides through the site. Mohammed pulled us aside, off of the path, and up into the mountains away from the crowds. Ellery was like a mountain goat and couldn’t be contained, climbing well ahead of me and often Mohammed as well, in and out of caves with vivid layers of color, above and below carved halls and tombs, on top of pillars and around statues. As amazing as the view from the path was, the views from on top were even more spectacular, as you could see the entire ancient city unfold. At one point we stopped in a cave where two Bedouin women offered us tea, and we sat there and took it all in.
Eventually we came back down to the path, and walked through a small site of Roman ruins that are being excavated by professors and students of Brown University. Our tour – about 4 hours of climbing and walking – ended just past these ruins, where we grabbed some cold water and rested. Although we contemplated taking donkeys up to the Monastery, a building high in the hills similar to the Treasury, we needed to make our way back to the gate for the continuation of our journey, sadly knowing that there was so much that we missed. So, we leisurely (and safely) rode the donkeys back to the Treasury.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 26, 2008 from Wadi Musa, Jordan

Pisa, Italy
Pisa
written by  shoshtrvls on August 9, 1980 from Pisa, Italy

Belo Horizonte, Brazil
A change of transportation here -- I recall Belo Horizonte as being pretty ugly and I feared that Ouro Preto would be the same.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 21, 1992 from Belo Horizonte, Brazil

Rodhopos, Greece
I stayed at Stavros for about an hour -- the wind eventually driving me away. So I headed west, back through Chania and toward Rodhopos Penninsula. Near the end of the road I vied with mountain goats for my share of the road, eventually coming to a war monument of some kind with a beautiful view of the northwestern coast of Crete.
The last stop was the monastery of Gonia, similar to the others but smaller and with an imposing view of the ocean. However, the icons here were the best of all.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 6, 1993 from Rodhopos, Greece

Viana do Castelo, Portugal
I really liked this place, as I recall.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 9, 1995 from Viana do Castelo, Portugal

Aroumd, Morocco
(see second Imlil entry)
written by  shoshtrvls on May 26, 1991 from Aroumd, Morocco

Nantong, China
Our first stop was Nantong, where Barb and the boys rushed off the boat to buy ice cream and snacks. Afterwards, a few games of black jack and bed.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 9, 1987 from Nantong, China

Jakar, Bhutan
In the morning, Dorji surprised Ellery with a handmade bow and arrow and she spent much of the morning practicing with her little monk friend before we left Jakar.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 29, 2006 from Jakar, Bhutan

Quorn, Australia
From Burra, it was through Terowie, Peterborough and Orroroo. We then crossed over to Wilmington and up to Quorn.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 4, 1990 from Quorn, Australia

Prince Rupert, Canada
Another day at sea, on our way to Vancouver.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 26, 2005 from Prince Rupert, Canada

By Sea and By Land
Punta Gorda, Belize
Although yesterday we had been told that we had to go back to Puerto Barrios to catch a 10:00 a.m. boat to Belize, in Livingston, anything is possible if you're willing to pay for it, and that includes a skiff directly to Punta Gorda, Belize. It thus took us only 45 minutes to get to Belize, instead of the 3 hours we had budgeted for this leg of the journey.
Once in Punta Gorda, we immediately jumped onto the Belize equivalent of a Chicken bus -- an old school bus that does the familiar hop-on, hop-off type of route -- and made it to Mango Creek in 2 hours. Then it was a 20 minute boat ride on the Hokey Pokey Water Taxi to Placencia, otherwise known as Paradise. Or a movie set.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 3, 2009 from Punta Gorda, Belize

Day 9 (continued) - Would You Like Tea With That Desert?
Ramm, Jordan
After we left Petra, it was time to continue on to Wadi Rum, the desert made famous by Lawrence of Arabia.
We were picked up by our guide (whose name I could never quite get) in a beat up old Jeep with doors that didn’t close right and an electrical system that shorted out quite frequently. It was perfect for the journey we were about to embark on. Already in the Jeep were our traveling companions, a mother and 20-something daughter from Germany.
We stayed on the paved road for a bit, and then cut off across the wide expanse of desert. Here we were all alone, circling the Wadi Rum protected area which we will visit tomorrow. The mountains – rock formations rising from the sand – were astounding, and changed dramatically as we drove around them, as did the sand, going from a light tan to a vibrant red. The jeep became stuck in the sand several times but somehow always made it out.
About an hour into the drive, we made our first stop, gathering dried twigs to make a small fire. Our guide brought out an old copper pot and we drank sweet tea while surveying our surroundings. We stopped a second time at sunset, truly in the middle of nowhere, and sat on the sand to watch the sun disappear over the mountains.
A short time later we arrived at our destination, a tented camp on the outskirts of the protected area. There we were greeted by 6 other travelers – a couple originally from France but working in London, and four Hungarians who had driven to Jordan from Budapest through Serbia, Bulgaria, Turkey and Syria – now *that’s* a road trip. After a dinner of salads and grilled chicken and conversation, we called it a night, an end to a perfect day.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 26, 2008 from Ramm, Jordan

Hawker, Australia
Quorn through to Hawker was nice, with many old ruins of towns which literally died in the 1870's.
After Hawker we saw our first kangaroos, the first one was just sitting by the road and initially we thought he was hurt (so I didn't take his picture), until he hopped away. We also saw emus along the way.
We finally arrived in Wilpena Pound and pitched our little tent for the night. Steven and Linda would be proud (well, Steve at least).
written by  shoshtrvls on April 4, 1990 from Hawker, Australia

Kutahya, Turkey
Mark and I rose fairly early and took a taxi from Kutayha to what turned out to be the best part of the trip so far . . . Greek ruins more spectacular than any I've ever seen before. And to think we almost missed them because the guide book we were using (Lonely Planet) barely made reference to them. The two-hour drive to get to the ruins, through pastoral scenes of shepherds with their flocks, cowherders, tiny villages surrounding tin-domed mosques, bright red poppy fields and Millet-type views of women bent over planting seeds, was exquisite -- each view a perfect painting.[p>
The ruins themselves were mostly set in an open field and coming upon them was amazing, somewhat like the photos one sees of Stonehedge. The closer we got, the more apparent it became that these ruins were very well-preserved. The main ruin, a Temple of Zeus, is set on a small hill, dominating everything around it. Virtually every column remains standing. In the gymnasium, the delicately carved marble moldings seem to have lost none of their depth and the chiseled writing on the pillars in the arena and stadium can be clearly read (if one understood the language, of course).
Wandering around these ruins in silence -- no other tourists, no one at all -- made the entire experience almost mystical. Eventually we were joined by a rather elderly caretaker, who walked with us back through the ruins to the road, explaining each of the different sites as we passed by and unlocking the gate which led to the cavern, formerly a swimming pool dedicated to Diana, underneath the Temple.
As we reached the road, the caretaker urged us to walk through the nearby village to see even more ruins, and we took his advice. The village was a small one, consisting entirely of mud and brick homes, thatched roofs, wandering chickens and dirt streets. And, just as the caretaker promised, every so often, a small ruin . . . the remains of a temple squeezed between two houses, a fountain around a corner, or an old column in the middle of the street. A wonderful experience.
Back in Kutayha by about 2 p.m., we had a quick lunch and then did what we (Mark actually) had come to Kutayha for -- porcelain and ceramics shopping. (Mark was looking for tiles for a house he has been building for almost four years now). Kutayha is known for its hand-painted tiles and porcelain and we wandered through shop after shop of some truly beautiful items. Unfortunately, none of the shops would ship anything and the pieces we were looking at were simply too heavy and breakable to carry with us. And besides, we really didn't see anything that demanded to be bought. As a result, we ended up at the actual ceramic factories just outside of town, which was a big mistake because we bought stuff . . . lots of stuff . . . tiles for my garden, bowls, vases, plates . . . well, you get the idea. Of course, even the factory at first said it couldn't ship -- until they brought in Hassan. Hassan, an executive who spoke perfect English (having studied at Berkeley and the University of New Mexico), is in charge of exports for the company (meaning bulk exports which our load, while "bulk" to us, was peanuts to the factory). Although it took about two and a half hours, with Hassan's help we finally arranged to have our purchases trucked to Izmir on the coast and then transported by DHL here to Philly.
Afterward the shopping was completed, Hassan invited us back to his home for dinner. Other visitors included a student from Hong Kong who was studying at the local university, a professor from the university with his son and daughter, and a few of their friends, turning the quiet meal into a large and jovial gathering. As a result, Mark and I stayed much longer than we had planned, enjoying the company and the food. However, as our bus to Ankara didn't leave until 1:30 a.m., we didn't mind at all
written by  shoshtrvls on June 7, 1996 from Kutahya, Turkey

Zhenjiang, China
While I think we made a stop during the night, our second official stop was early in the morning at Zhenjiang. Again, the cool dudes jumped ship, or maybe they were still sleeping. In any event, during the day we discovered that our choice of conversation partners had expanded; at Nantong, a Japanese businessman and a Young Chinese couple, all three of whom spoke English, had gotten aboard. So, until we arrived in Nanjing (about 1:30), there was more small talk (including comparing the Nanjing bridge to the Golden gate), picture taking and watching old (?) men play Chinese checkers.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 10, 1987 from Zhenjiang, China

Gangtey Gonpa, Bhutan
A long day of driving, beginning with a stop at the Swiss hotel to buy some cheese which Ellery pronounced as wonderful and then much retracing of steps. We stopped again at the weavers at Chhume where Palden selected many items to sell in Thimphu. We crossed Kiki La and Yo Tang La before arriving again at Tongsa. We made a quick stop at the bank and a second attempt to get a photo with the dzong in the background. Lunch was at the same "nowhere" restaurant, where we ran into the Italian/Spanish couple we shared the hotel with and another Italian couple whose path we have crossed before, and who will most likely be our companions for the remainder of the trip.
Eventually we arrived at the Phobjikha Valley and Gangtey Goemba, a very old monastery undergoing renovation. This offered us an amazing opportunity to see all the handiwork that goes into such an effort -- the woodworking, metal craft, etc. We also saw some women practicing a traditional dance and, best of all, an ancient ceremony in the goemba. Again, no photos allowed, and words can't accurately describe the sight of the elderly women lining the walls in the darkened temple, chanting and spinning their prayer wheels, while the monks banged the drums, clapped the cymbals and blew their long trumpets. (I did get audio through my video camera). The ceremony ended with with throwing of rice by all participants and a cacophony of sound.
We then made it to our hotel and after a short rest relaxed in a hot stone bath, a unique experience in which stones are heated in a fire and placed into a small section of a wooden bathtub, which then heats the water in the larger section of the tub. Movement of any kind brings more hot water into the main section. Overall, it was a very relaxing way to end the day.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 29, 2006 from Gangtey Gonpa, Bhutan

Imlil, Morocco
From Asni I caught the back of a truck to Imlil -- that's the American Express part -- bumping around with seven or eight others up a dirt road, stopping and starting whenever anyone yelled out.
Imlil was much more interesting. Tiny, with several identical shops, a youth hostel, a cafe and a boulangerie. Here I found a guide, Omar, for the trip to Setti Fatima. (Toubkal appeared covered in snow, and I wasn't quite up to the climb).
I then hired a mule and rode up to Aroumd, the first village on the way to Toukbal. Pleasant enough, and my first true view of how the little villages dot the mountainsides.
Upon my return to Imlil, I discovered that I had been joined at the hostel by an English father/daughter team -- David, an accountant, and Browning (great name), a marketing student. They were quite nice, sharing their coffee and food, as I beat them badly at Scrabble. Later, two less friendly brits arrived.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 26, 1991 from Imlil, Morocco

Chania, Greece
Back in Chania, I forced myself to eat again because I had to dine in the most atmospheric place -- a cafe (Taverna Ela) in a shall of a burned out Venetian building -- no roof, just crumbling walls and burnt cross-beams. Magnificent, and cheap too.
Unfortunately, I am now sitting in the Chania airport while masses of German tourists pour through, apparently catching some charter flight out of the country (the pounding of the immigration officer's stamp has given me an overwhelming headache).
Sometimes, life works out. The incredibly nice flight check in woman has placed m in "executive class" for the trip back to Athens. It was kind and is appreciated.
[2009 Edit -- Rereading this, I decided to look up that cafe, because it so sticks out in my mind. It now has a website and here's a bit about it's history:
The building you are in was built in 1650 by Jews, who were brought from Spain by the Venetians during their occupation of Crete in the middle ages.
The building was initially used for the manufacture of soap and this explains its Split levels, called tabakades.
The windows were set low in order to allow the soap to dry in the draft.
The thick wooden beams were placed close to each other to avoid movement during the stamping of the soap.
The timber used for its construction was sourced from chestnut trees and trees from the Black Sea area.
Later, when the building was taken over by the Greeks, it functioned in turn as a school, wine store and spirits distillery for ouzo, liqueurs and tsikoudia.
More recently it served as a cheese factory and confectioner’s kitchen.
From 1976 to 1988 the renovated building operated as a coffee shop, bar and restaurant on three floors.
In 1988 the building was completely destroyed by fire.
Since 1991, after comprehensive safety checks, the building has housed the Ela taverna with live music and fresh traditional dishes. ]
written by  shoshtrvls on May 6, 1993 from Chania, Greece

Caminha, Portugal
written by  shoshtrvls on April 9, 1995 from Caminha, Portugal

Ouro Preto, Brazil
Ouro Preto is nothing like Belo Horizonte, but instead just as the guidebook promised. It's charming, which amazing architecture, perched high in the mountains. I found a lovely guest house but arrived sick as a dog -- very sick. I was sure I had malaria.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 21, 1992 from Ouro Preto, Brazil

Monaco
Monaco, Monaco
written by  shoshtrvls on August 9, 1980 from Monaco, Monaco

Nice, France
Nice
written by  shoshtrvls on August 9, 1980 from Nice, France

Ouro Preto, Brazil
I recovered and spent the day walking around, taking pictures mostly of all the fountains ... they're everywhere here. Quite lovely. I like this place a lot.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 22, 1992 from Ouro Preto, Brazil

Valenca, Portugal
Valencia
written by  shoshtrvls on April 9, 1995 from Valenca, Portugal

Tacheddirt, Morocco
The next morning it was up and on the trail by eight -- after breakfast of warm bread and processed Laughing Cow cheese. Again, national geographic all the way, with villages built into the mountains at all but the highest passes.
We reached Tacheddirt valley just before noon, arriving at our evening's shelter in the village of Ounskra, just below Tacheddirt. The room was on the top terrace, with an incredible view of the mountains. Below was the family's house -- dark, kitchon first on the right, then living rooms, then toilette. Below that were the animals.
First we were treated to tea and tajine before a long siesta. Then some eggs and now I sit admiring the beauty, listening to my host's rythmic berber speech, the wind and the rushing water.
Afterwards, a trip halfway to an other village in the valley -- Omar was apparently sidetrac ked by some "ski buds" so instead we sat at the top of a rocky point. Omar did show me the grainary, the same thing the porter tried to show me in Aroumd the day before. We returned to the house for spaghetti and couscous before sleeping.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 27, 1991 from Tacheddirt, Morocco

Nanjing, China
When we docked in Nanjing, the cool dudes helped us take our bags to the taxi, which we shared with the Japanese businessman (who was staying at the same hotel -- the Nanjing). We eren't the only ones getting off (needless to say) and found ourselves in a crush of people, bicycles and animals (cats and dogs in cages, soon to be someone's dinner -- ugh!) Our hotel was nice and spacious, but having only one afternoon in Nanjing we merely dumped our bags off and jumped in a cab for the worldwind tour.
Our first stop (which we figured out by matching the characters on our map with those the cab driver had written on his hand) was Zhonghua Gate, an ancient structure, quite tall and several walls thick. There was a nice view from the top -- and we got there just in time as a thunderstorm openned just as we reached the safety of the cab. The next two stops were CAAC and CITS to buy plane tickets out of Nanjing (me to Beijing, Barbara to Hong Kong). From there we drove around the city wall, dating to the Ming Dynasty, and then out to the Sun Yat-Sen Memorial located in the mountains just outside of Nanjing. The memorial, a tomb really, si built into the mountainside and its quite a long climb up many steps to get to the top. I felt like Rocky when I was done.
While the memorial was visually striking, the countryside was even more beautiful, very green and "light" is really the only way to describe it (i.e. thin trees, not firs, etc.) Again, our timing was perfect as it started to rain again on the way home -- still, we insisted that the driver take us through Xuanwu Lake Park -- very pretty but too wet and grey to really tell.
We had dinner with the Japanese businessman at a very good Chinese restaurant in the Jingling Hotel. The businessman obviously enjoyed our company (and told us so), especially since his co-workers are married and he often found himself dining alone. (He was in Nanjing for about a year). What was really funny about this is that there was probably no reason for him to be alone -- the waitress at the restaurant was hitting on him and flirting to such an extent, it was almost comical. I noted that we ate great Chinese food (including eel, which the businessman refused to let us call eel because edible eel has a different name in Japan) and a great vegetable (green) I've never seen before) because it seems in China that most hotels push the Western food on visitors, as if Chinese food would be unacceptable to us.
The Jingling hotel was a spectacle in itself, supposedly the tallest building in China. It has beautiful gardens and the locals stare at it from outside the gates. (The guide boo says that Chinese aren't allowed in). On top is a revolving bar, where we retired to after dinner. Wonderful view of the city and river but, for the first hour we were there, a prime example of the old men-bad band syndrome. Then it was disco -- passable dancing as well. (The Chinese have two dance styles -a VERY stiff waltz and then "disco" which is so bad -- the jump around the floor like John Travolta robots gone haywire). After a few drinks we went back t our hotel, I to bed and Barbara and the businessman to more drinking.
Two quick notes: First, everywhere you go in China there are suggestion forms and books asking you to comment on the service. People do write in them -- I wonder if they're read. Second, while Chinese people have the worst teeth I've ever seen, most hotel rooms come equipped with disposable toothbrushes and toothpaste. Interesting, eh? Also, no toilet paper -- carrying your own is a must.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 10, 1987 from Nanjing, China

Wangdiphodrang, Bhutan
Another day of retracing our steps and chance experiences. We started with a quick stop at the information building of the black neck crane which migrates through the valley before heading back to Thimphu. Passed a family of monkeys -- macaques -- along the way.
This time we did stop at Wanghi Dzong and were glad we did. We caught the monks practicing their traditional dance for an upcoming festival and saw a relic of the buddha of power.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 30, 2006 from Wangdiphodrang, Bhutan

Blinman, Australia
We were up early (as alway with camping) -- birds everywhere. Crows, beautiful black and white magpies and pink galahs. We packed up our gear and went on a short hike to the old homestead (easy) and wangarra lookout (a bit steep). Along the way we saw several emus and two kangaroos, mother and joey, the advantage of early rising.
From Flinders Ranges we drove to Blinman where a great mixed grill and salad bar was available. The hotel appeared quite nice, with a swimming pool next door full of children. Along the way, we passed by the "great wall of China" -- an interesting rock formation.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 5, 1990 from Blinman, Australia

Day 10 - Cue Peter O'Toole
Ramm, Jordan
Were it not for the fact that I’m in pain and it’s about 110 degrees here in Aqaba, this would be another perfect day. Even so, it’s pretty damn good.
As with most injuries, it isn’t until the next day you feel it the most, and so it was with my fall from the horse. As I woke, each breath and each movement caused excruciating pain. As luck would have it, my German traveling companion is a nurse, and after confirming that I had a bruised, and maybe cracked, rib or two, she brought out the drugs. I thought I carried a fairly sophisticated first aid kit for third world travel, but it was nothing compared to hers. A few pills later and I was, if not as good as new, at least comfortable. So after a quick shower and breakfast, the four of us set off for the protected area of Wadi Rum.
Like the sights of the previous day, the protected area is vast but not as empty. After climbing aboard our open-air landcruiser, we passed through gates to the park and through a small Bedouin village full of children and camels and goats. Then it was through the desert again, this time with red sand all around, and mountains on both sides. We made a few stops to take it all in, climb into caverns and the like. Not a major event, but a good way to start the day.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 27, 2008 from Ramm, Jordan

Day 10 (continued) - Ahhh, All Better Now
Al 'Aqabah, Jordan
From there it was on to Aqaba, which on a cooler day might actually be paradise. OK, not the town of Aqaba, which Ellery and I wandered through tonight, but the hotel we’re at, the Aqaba Intercontinental. And boy, did we need it … a pool that’s more like a river through the hotel, huge palm trees shading everything, and a beach with water so clear that it seems like you can see through it forever – even more amazing given the fact that this is a working port, with huge freighters docked just off-shore.
After the pharmacy delivered more of the wonder drugs (I had written down the name of the pills and drugs here are cheap, no prescription needed), Ellery and I sat at the pool and swam for most of the day, returning to our poolside room to nap, shower, change into clean clothes and eventually enjoy a nice walk into town for dinner.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 27, 2008 from Al 'Aqabah, Jordan

written by  shoshtrvls on August 28, 1980 from Paris, France

Just Like A Movie Set
Placencia, Belize
Our final destination of the trip, Turtle Inn, like La Lancha, is owned by Francis Ford Coppola and consists of a number of Balinese style luxury huts sitting on the beach, which is raked daily. Among the huts are a few swimming pools, restaurants, and a beach bar. It is, in essence, a movie set. And not unexpectedly, it is populated by a good assortment of beautiful young couples and "industry" people.
Ellery immediately staked out her territory -- a 6 year old named Fletcher. Fletcher came attached to a 2 year old sister, Sophia, a nanny named Ariel, and parents Renee and Billy, tv producers from Los Feliz. And there were great people, so while the kids played, and then ate dinner, and then had a "dessert party," the adults sat and talked and drank and generally had a wonderful evening together before stumbling back to our respective huts on the beach.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 3, 2009 from Placencia, Belize

Parachilna, Australia
(see Lyndhurst entry)
written by  shoshtrvls on April 5, 1990 from Parachilna, Australia

We took more note of our route back the Thimphu this time, stopping to really look at the water prayer wheels, tatas, and flora that we passed along the way.
The evening finished fabulously, with a delightful dinner at Palden's home, with Ellery and I both dressed in our Bhutanese finery.

Ankara, Turkey
Mark and I arrived at the bus station, or otogar, shortly after midnight and the time waiting for the bus seemed like an eternity. But it eventually arrived and Mark and I dutifully climbed aboard and promptly fell asleep. At about 4 a.m., the bus pulled into a truck stop and we were fed a standard Turkish breakfast of soup and bread. For future reference, soup does make a good start to any day. Of course, the soup was already warming my insides when I realized that it probably had some meat in it; I finally realized that my vegetarian ways might not last the entire trip. (Up until this point, besides salads and the fish we were able to get in Istanbul, my diet had consisted almost entirely of the equivalent of grilled cheese sandwiches -- and Turkey is not known for its tasty cheese).
We arrived in Ankara at 6 a.m., like clockwork, and immediately high-tailed it to the airport (having been told many times that there is nothing to see or do in Ankara) for the flight to Erzurum.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 8, 1996 from Ankara, Turkey

Beijing, China
I took a cab from the hotel in Nanjing to the airport -- a tiny little place out in the middle of nowhere, reminiscent of the airport in "Casablanca." However, the plane appeared to be of fairly recent vintage and much more "airworthy" than the tiny, boxy thing that left just minutes earlier. The plane ride was not particularly notable except for the free gifts. Minutes after take-off we were handed fans with "CAAC" on the back. Then came the travel wallet (plastic, of course).
I arrived at the Beijing airport and grabbed a cab to the hotel. The scenery was much more interesting than in Shanghai or Nanjing -- large fields, horse-drawn carts, a long straight highway. Since there is no real skyline to Beijing (all buildings are relatively short), it was hard to tell if the cab driver was taking me to a hotel close to the center of town or not.
We eventually got on a freeway (which was also used by the horse carts!) but turned off before anything that looked like the center of town, although a large temple loomed in the distance.
When we started driving through some very depressed streets -- one story boxes built with stone or clay or something, I really began to worry. Then we turned down an alley, or hutong, where the standard of living was even worse! But then, almost out of nowhere, came this hotel. Small and inside pretty average, but from the outside and in the midst of that neighborhood, it seemed absolutely beautiful.
I dropped off my suitcase and took a cab to the CITS office, located in one of the hotels fairly close to the center of town. Unless you were buying train tickets, the place was relatively calm and uncrowded. I bought tickets for the Ming Tombs/Great Wall tour the next day and inquired about tickets to the acrobatics show, at which point the woman pointed out a theater on the map and told me it would take about 1/2 hour to walk there. So off I trotted -- but in the wrong direction! Twenty minutes later I was on ChangAn Avenue (thank god for pinyan). After getting my bearings straight, I decided that the best course of action would be to take in Tianaman Square and the Forbidden Palace first, and then attempt to find the acrobatics hall. So that's what I did.
I walked to the Square and took some pictures but opted out of the museum and Mao's mummified body (just as I had done with Lenin in Red Square).
The Forbidden Palace was really interesting, mostly because of its size and the number of buildings -- they just kept coming and coming. Also, it was my first real view of Chinese architecture -- the Pagoda-like style, painted, multi-layered eaves, and carved figures on top. And all the buildings are painted red (is this a recent development?). Many buddhas and the like -- temple, receiving rooms, another temple, and so forth.
Coming out of the palace on the north side, I crossed the street nad entered Jingian Park, which had a tall hill with a building on top. The climb up the steps was no simple feat, due in large part to the heat and humidity, but the view was marvelous. One could look down over the Forbidden City and all of Beijing. On my way down I was stopped by a Chinese man who wanted to show me a "very famous tree" in the park. It turned out to be a tiny little thing from which someone was hanged -- the last emperor maybe. But then, I'm told, it's not the REAL tree, but one just like it. The REAL tree was chopped down.
I was going to walk back through the city but being incredibly tired I grabbed a quick cab to the Beijing Hotel for a cold coke.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 11, 1987 from Beijing, China

Timichchi, Morocco
The next day was hard work, especially for the mule. The climb to the "col" (the pass) was a difficult one, the green of the valley giving way to the rocky slopes. At the top was snow and then an equally steep descent.
About halfway down, by a stream, we stopped for lunch, and as we finished the brits arrived. This time they were much more friendly, the mutual (?) struggle making us something of compatriots. We were to meet again several times along the route.
From here we passed through a village so full of children it was really remarkable. Then it was down to Timichchi, a valley much less fertile and green, although shaded by walnut trees. We camped rather far down in the valley and for dinner, an audience.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 28, 1991 from Timichchi, Morocco

The loop completed.

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
A last night in Rio before heading home.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 22, 1992 from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

OK, we're not still in Ushuaia, but Blogabond doesn't map by coordinates and we're really out at sea.
Today was a day at sea, with lectures galore. Over breakfast we spotted our first wandering albatros and then had a lecture on the bird life (which was boring) and one on whales and dolphins (which was great). The one on whales was given by Jean, who had not cracked a smile since we boarded. However, once she started talking about whales, she brightened considerably. After lunch, I slept and we watched a video on Antarctic conservation. The final lecture was on the southern seas.
After the lectures was "wine and chesse" with our groups -- in my case, Mountain Travel. After handing out t-shirts and patches, Peggy showed us a video of an African safari (way to cross-sell!)
Then more bad news -- because of the lost day, we will not be going to the Falklands. The bad news was tempered, however, by the fact that the good weather (and it has been incredible) may allow us to go very far south, even to the Antarctic Circle. The initial reaction was one of shock and great disappointment (many, like me, had chosen this trip because of the Falklands) because we all thought that hte time would be lost in Antarctica or Buenos Aires, or that we would reduce time in the Falklands from 2 days to 1 day. However, I guess the thought was that it was 4 days at sea for only a brief visit to Port Stanley. Col. Dale believes it is a plot -- that the company didn't have enough money to buy the gas or pay for the trip to the Falklands, especially since the boat is just 1/2 full. I'm not sure I agree -- nor do most people, who believe that Travel Dynamics is doing the best they can. Again, the Falklands is a disappointment but we're really here for Antarctica and I'm sure the Falklands will always be there (and really, until the war and this trip, I had never even thought of going there).
Dinner was with Cory, Alumni Director for Miami U, Carole, Mary, the Chens and the bizarre mother/son team from Ohio.
Cross the Antarctic Convergence around 10:10 p.m.

Johannesburg, South Africa
We arrived in Johannesburg and checked into the only thing that made this city worthwhile, the Westcliff hotel. We had dinner at Moyo, an African "theme" restaurant that would have done Steven Starr proud.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 2, 2004 from Johannesburg, South Africa

Hluhluwe, South Africa
We settled into a regular pace, two game drives a day, lots of lazing around in between. A bit too relaxing for me.
Today's drives involved rhinos, giraffes, zebras, and monkeys.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 28, 2004 from Hluhluwe, South Africa

Day 11 - Dive Right In
Al 'Aqabah, Jordan
Another great day in paradise, albeit one with little to report on.
Ellery and I spent the morning simply hanging by the pool trying to keep cool in the heat.
The afternoon was another incredible experience – this one underwater as we took a boat to the coral reefs just south of Aqaba for several hours of snorkeling in the truly crystal clear waters. It was impossible to tell really how deep things were because you could see forever. The fish were plentiful, from neon purple ones hiding in caves to Bright yellow and black ones in enormous schools surrounding us to blue and yellow striped ones hiding in the coral. And can I just say … I truly love my daughter. She jumped right in – literally, from the deck of the boat, and swam sometimes with me, sometimes exploring the reefs on her own, happily discovering yet another wonder of life on Earth.
The day ended with a strange request to our cabdriver: "Could you please take us to the hammam (Turkish Bath) next to the Pizza Hut?". No place lacks fast food.
Tomorrow we leave this relaxing place first for Mt. Sinai and then for the crazy, crowded, bustling, overwhelming city of Cairo. It will be yet a different experience from everything we’ve done so far, so we’re ready for it, but at the same time we’ll be sorry to leave Aqaba and Jordan behind. This is an amazing country; I could easily come back several times over to take it in again.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 28, 2008 from Al 'Aqabah, Jordan

Swimming With The Fishes
Placencia, Belize
Today was a marvelously relaxing way to end our vacation.
Early in the morning, we set out with Rene, Billy and the crew to Laughingbird Caye, a small atoll about 1/2 hour away by boat. Along the way, we had the good fortune of being followed for a bit by several dolphin, which gave the kids a real thrill.
The Caye is tiny and uninhabited with the exception of the park ranger who makes sure that there's no fishing and no removal of coral or shells from the area. While Billy and Rene went scuba diving a bit offshore, the rest of us went snorkeling ... and it was fabulous. We saw a greater variety of fish than I've seen anywhere else, parrotfish and angelfish and barracudas and nurse sharks and dozens of others. The coral itself was not particularly vibrant but the fish more than made up for it. Lunch was on the island and then a second snorkel/dive and home we came.
The rest of the day was pure relaxation ... napping, sitting by the pool, and enjoying dinner with the Raineys. The evening ended with a spectacular full moon over the ocean (I really couldn't capture it on film but I tried) and a painful sunburn ... but well worth it.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 4, 2009 from Placencia, Belize

Beijing, China
After regaining my strength, I set off through Tianamen Square to find the acrobatics hall. I stopped to buy orange sodas often during the day (usually 40 fen, with a 10-20 return on the bottle). The street to the south of the Square was interesting enough, really just a lot of shops selling various things, but because I wasn't really used to navigating the hutongs with the map, I overshot my destination considerably. I walked back through one of the hutongs parallel to the main street -- much more interesting -- narrow, dirty, very real. I finally found the acrobatics hall, purchased a ticket, and then debated how to spend the intervening two hours. When I realized that I was extremely close to one of the recommended Peking Duck restaurants ("Is that No. 41 on the [Lonely Planet] map?" I was asked later in the evening -- a popular guide book and destination), I decided to try my luck.
The place was crowded but not too crowded. Mostly Chinese with a few westerners. The way to get a seat was to stand behind someone until they were done. You then had about two seconds to site down before someone else did. I got lucky and rather quickly a table opened up with just one vacant seat. Even better, one of the diners was a Chinese man (there with his wife and daughter) who had just returned from two years at Brandeis in Boston! So we talked about traveling, the difference in cultures, etc. The duck was excellent. Served with pancakes, hoisin sauce and onions, it is to be eaten like mooshu pork, i.e. rolled into a burrito-like pouch.
After dinner I headed back to the acrobatics hall. There were very few Chinese in attendance -- mostly westerners and Japanese tour groups. (In fact, I had met several of the westerners earlier in the day in the hutongs, duck restaurant, etc.) The show was great. Mistakes were made, but all in all quite interesting. There were several different acts ranging from magic to juggling to balancing. Quite a spectacle lasting about two hours.
Following the show I took a bicycle rickshaw back to the Beijing Hotel where a drunk Texan kept trying to get me to dance with him. His friend was a lawyer and we had a fairly interesting conversation, but the drunk one kept interfering. I finally got up, walked around a bit and then sat down with a group of Austrians who had come to China as part of a Youth Council delegation. They were nice enough but somewhat boring. I got back to my hotel at about 10:30 (very late Chinese time) and tried in vain to arrange for a taxi the following morning to take me to the Beijing -Toronto Hotel where the Great Wall tour met. I finally gave up and went to bed.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 11, 1987 from Beijing, China

Antarctic Peninsula, Argentina
Another day, another breakfast, another lecture, this time on "do's and dont's" of zodiac landings, dressing for Antarctica, etc. We also broke into four groups for zodiac landings. Meanwhile, more rumors flew regarding our skipping of the Falklands -- Carole and I realized that we're back on schedule, the good weather having helped us make up at least 12 hours. We'll have to follow up. (Bad planning by T.D.).
Anyway, after our briefing (which actually included some humor), Jean gave another great lecture, this one on seals and sea lions. Then it was more food -- lunch -- and a nap. (I missed the bridge tour). Then we were really here -- a quick and semi-cold zodiac cruise through the Melchior Islands. We saw an old Chilean base, fur seals, and Adelie penguins. Afterwards a short video regarding conservation, then dinner, tonight with Dr. and Mrs. Patton, Thomas and Natalie Goodall, the Masons and Bob and Jean. Natalie and Tom were interesting to talk with but Dr. Patton even more so.
Passing our first few iceburgs was certainly a milestone -- the quiet, the ice blue, the shapes that change with every angle. Also the penguins and other animals -- so close, so undisturbed, so solitary.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 5, 1992 from Antarctic Peninsula, Argentina

Braga, Portugal
Another great town.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 10, 1995 from Braga, Portugal

Setti Fatma, Morocco
The rest of the way to Setti Fatma was easy, more "around" than "over." Setti Fatma itself was a disappointment -- the waterfall (I only saw one) was nice, but the hustlers were numerous and insistent. Being propositioned was the word of the day. Thus, I took the 3 p.m. bus back to Marrakech and the hotel.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 29, 1991 from Setti Fatma, Morocco

Paro, Bhutan
Our final day in Bhutan started with another drive -- this one back to Paro. We made the road opening and stopped for sausages at Chuzzom before heading to our last major destination -- Tiger's Nest Monastery. We opted for the easy way up, being on horseback for about 3/4 of the way, and were glad we did because even the last bit of the walk was very tiring. But we had good company, a Malaysian couple on their honeymoon and trekkers from Michigan.
The monastery was more fascinating from the outside then for the inside since much of it has been recently rebuilt. But the views were fabulous and in keeping with our luck, we were invited to tea with the lama and watched buttercakes being made.
On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at the ruins of an old dzong, drukyel. We did some shopping and had a final night's dinner at a new restaurant called red rice, with Dorji carrying a sleeping Ellery up the steps to our room.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 31, 2006 from Paro, Bhutan

Leigh Creek, Australia
(see Lyndhurst entry)
written by  shoshtrvls on April 5, 1990 from Leigh Creek, Australia

Antarctic Peninsula, Argentina
Well, I am writing this on March 8, and as I look back on what I wrote on the fifth, it seems so far away. Since then, wonder at our first iceburgs has given way to wonder at the majesty of the entire continent.
On March 6, we first set foot on Antarctica -- or at least an island. First, we went to Torgersen Island, home of the Adelie rookery. Because it wsa late in the season, there weren't the hundreds of thousands of penguins you see in pictures. There were, however, the perfect amount. Many to see and walk around, with a bit less "guano" (penguin shit) than at the height of the season. Adelies have black heads and backs and white stomachs. Amongst the Adelies was one lonely gentoo -- noticeable by its orange beak and white flare about the eyes.
After Torgerson, we went to Palmer Station, the only American base on the Penninsula. On ship we got a sllide show presentation about the Antarctic program, logistics and scientific work. Then it was a quick tour around the base and a trip to the "gift shop" for souveniers. We then headed toward the Lenaire Channel, which we were told was a strikingly beautiful passage and through which two prior boats failed to make. Unfortunately, we were also turned back, not by ice but by heavy snowfall which made it impossible to see even a few feet away.
So, instead of the Lenaire, we went to Port Lockroy. There we wandered among a gentoo rookery. On our way, George Llano spoke about "pastures of the sea" and I slept. Port Lockroy was also a whaling station and huge bones were left as a reminder. Natalie believes that the spine at least came from a blue whale -- rare as there is estimated to be only 1 - 3,000 left.
I thought I would get bored watching penguins all day, but this is not the case. It is fascinating even to sit still and follow the movements of just one.
Often when we land, half go "cruising" on the zofiacs while the other half visit the island. This minimized the impact on the continent and makes for a more enjoyable trip for those ashore.
Other than the Collins and Carole, I can't remember who I ate with, but we were the loudest table around.
Notes:
porposing" -- penguins swimming through the water.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 6, 1992 from Antarctic Peninsula, Argentina

Hluhluwe, South Africa
Rhinos, hippos, monkeys and lots of birds and warthogs. A game walk in the afternoon.
Also, shopping -- I bought a huge beautiful basket and a few other things.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 29, 2004 from Hluhluwe, South Africa

Nyala, giraffe, zebras, warthogs and elephants far in the distance.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 30, 2004 from Hluhluwe, South Africa

Day 12 - Like Moses, Crossing The Red Sea
Al 'Aqabah, Jordan
Nothing much to report today, as we spent nearly all of it at the hotel pool.
Around 8:30, after a lengthy chat about U.S. politics with Rami, the owner of one of the travel agencies in the hotel, we hopped on a boat to cross the Red Sea to Taba, in Eqypt, where our Egyptian guide and drivers were waiting to take us to Mount Sinai. (There were two drivers, we were told, because one is not allowed to drive through the desert more than 200 km without a “spare” driver).
A few closing thoughts on Jordan. It’s a wonderful country, spectacular really. And the people are so nice and friendly and open, a real contrast to Israel. It wasn’t perfect, of course (our guide in Petra, for example, managed to get me to pay him far more than I should have, for example, but in the scheme of things, the small bit extra was far more valuable to him than to me), but in the scheme of things, for a developing country, it was a superb experience.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 29, 2008 from Al 'Aqabah, Jordan

Marrakech, Morocco
As it was cherry season, the bus to Marrakech stopped every ten feet or so to load crates of cherries on top for sale in Marrakech. The drive out of the valley was also nice -- souvenier shops and chic hotels notwithstanding.
Returning to the hotel was undeniably a joy however, as a hot bath, room service, and a good night's sleep were needed. (It should be noted, however, that I am spending far, far too much money on this trip!)
written by  shoshtrvls on May 29, 1991 from Marrakech, Morocco

Guimaraes, Portugal
Guimares
written by  shoshtrvls on April 11, 1995 from Guimaraes, Portugal

Lyndhurst, Australia
After lunch we drove through Parachilna Gorge where the road was criss-crossed by a creek. We saw a wallaby and passed through Angorichina to Parachilna. From there it was north to Leigh Creek and Lyndhurst, where the paved road ends and the Strzelecki Track begins.
It is also were "talc alf" lives. He's an interesting guy who philosophizes about the meaning of letters (e.g. GOD = Gives Life (O = sun) Death) and makes unique sculptures, one of which I purchased (a kangaroo).
written by  shoshtrvls on April 5, 1990 from Lyndhurst, Australia

New Delhi, India
We woke up very early and bid a fond (truly fond) farewell to Palden and Dorji before catching our plane to New Delhi. Our luck continued as we flew above the clouds and had spectacular views of the snow-capped Himalayas, including Mount Everest.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 1, 2006 from New Delhi, India

Erzurum, Turkey
Erzurum is the main city in the eastern Anatolias, just south of the Black Sea and west of several former Soviet republics, Iran, and Iraq. A brief stroll through Erzurum quickly convinced me and Mark that there was no reason to stay in Erzurum despite the many attractions promised by the guidebook. Erzurum is just a medium-sized city with not much of interest, except kabob houses. Lots of them. Smelling great. Juicy meats in the windows. OK, I did it. I broke down. I had kabobs -- my first meat in several years -- for lunch. And they were great.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 8, 1996 from Erzurum, Turkey

Beijing, China
Up at seven, it was no problem getting a cab -- two were waiting right in front of the hotel. The real problem came in explaining where I wanted to go. It was printed on the ticket but rather smudged and the hotel wasn't listed on any map. All I knew was that it was near the Friendship Store. That was important since the cab driver turned the other way on Chang An. When I told him to turn around he finally realized where we were going. The hotel wasn't on the maps because it was obviously very new -- chrome and glass type decor. I was early so I sat in the coffee shop and had a real cup of coffee (no Nescafe!) and read "China Daily," the English language newspaper and propaganda sheet.
Finally it was eight a.m. and time to board the bus. We made two stops, the first to pick up an overly made-up woman apparently from Hong Kong at the Sheraton Great Wall. The hotel looked quite nice but was rather far out of town. (I read somewhere that they have shuttle buses but the distance still seems like a problem tot me). The second stop was to change buses and consolidate with another load from (apparently) the Holiday Inn (REALLY far out of town).
The ride to the Ming Tombs was about an hour long. I sat next to an American, a man about forty years old, who ran an American school in Malaysia. For the summer break he had taken the train from Belgium through Poland, Russia and China. He was very good looking and intelligent, but married as well, C'est la vie.
Our first stop was on the road leading to the tombs, which is lined with stone sculptures of animals and then men. We stayed there for 1/2 an hour, not quite long enough to walk back to the gate where, according to our guide, the biggest stone turtle in China is housed.
We then continued on to the tombs. While the grounds were pleasant enough, the actual tombs were just as boring as the guidebook predicted. You walk down flights and flights of stairs to see absolutely nothing. Added to this was our tour guide -- an obnoxious man who repeated everything several times but was still unintelligible. Furthermore, he was into audience participation and kept trying to get us to answer questions ("So does anybody know what the emperor's favorite number was? Anybody? The emperor's favorite number? Do you know?") God, he was awful.
After an hour we got back on the bus. A half-hour later we stopped for lunch. Where we stopped was a small townhouse only attraction was obviously this tourist restaurant -- it was exactly like the place you stop to eat on the tour from Moscow to Zagorsk. The meal was pretty dull except for Paul, an adorable five year old (?) from Hong Kong traveling with his "mum" -- they were English and her husband (not on the trip) worked for Shell.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 12, 1987 from Beijing, China

Antarctic Peninsula, Argentina
Today was a truly spectacular day. In the morning we made a second attempt at the Lenaire Channel. From a distance it appeared that the channel was blocked by ice flows, but as we approached a path could be seen. The channel was dramatic, as promised, but the bad weather (fog, clouds) probably lessened the impact.
Late in the morning we reached Petermann Island. On the island were a fair amount of gentoo penguins, a few Adelies, 3 fur seals and a little mountain. A climb to the top reveaaled a small plaque dedicated to the Pourquoi Pas, a ship that wintered over in 1909. The view of the bay was nice and you could slide down the side of the hill. After the island we took the zodiacs around the bay and saw some crabeater seals and some nice iceburgs.
We then returned through the Lenaire, which looked completely different. In addition to more definition, there were lots of seals on the ice flows.
We then went through the Neumeyer Channel, which was even more spectacular. The sun came out and the peaks were beautiful. We then crossed the Gerlache Strait and sailed into PARADISE! Actually, Paradise Harbour, our first (and only) stop actually on the continent.
The was really the most beautiful place. An old Argentinian station, burned down, sits at the foot of a small mountain.. Some of us climbed to the top and were rewarded with a spectacular (there's that word again) view, and a great slide down to the bottom (or at least half way -- Maggie, a scientist we picked up at Palmer, and I tried to make a second run to the bottom but the rocks got in the way). Our arrival on the continent was toasted with champagne, a great experience.
After the landing we took the zodiacs around and saw 1 elephant seal and some magnificent ice caves. Really a beautiful experience.
After dinner (generally a dud, but Cindy did receive a bottle of wine from the staff captain), Debra did a slide presentation on her year at the South Pole -- our best presentation yet. Even the couple from Philadelphia stayed awake -- she in his lap -- a big change from earlier in the trip when all they could do was fight.
Notes: Note getting to the Antarctic Circle because of ice; bird rookeries.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 7, 1992 from Antarctic Peninsula, Argentina

Today we went to Hluhluwe game reserve ... and it was fantastic. Not only did we see the usual suspects, but also water buffalo, crocs, monkeys and ... finally ... lions. Lots of lions, lazing in trees and lounging near a water hole.
Man, we thought we'd go the whole trip without seeing a single cat. All hail to Penn, who has eagle eyes.

Best. Day. Ever.
First, Penn took us to his village. It was amazing. We learned more about Zululand, and South Africa, in one morning than the entire rest of the trip. We stopped at the local school, where the kids gathered to perform for us; we visited Penn's family and his home (a one room hut) and had a great experience.
Then, to top it off, on the way back we finally, finally got up close and personal with the elephants. Indeed, almost too personal, as they charged our jeep several times. We were even able to see a baby nursing. Amazing way to end our stay here.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 1, 2004 from Hluhluwe, South Africa

Day 13 - The Lawyer's Mountain
'Uqrat Safhah, Egypt
Yesterday never really ended … at about 1:00 this morning, we arrived at Mt. Sinai and almost immediately climbed on our camels (yes, we’re wusses but we were more interested in making it to the top on time than in winning any fitness contest) to begin the climb to the top. We reached the end of the camel road at roughly 4:00 a.m., giving us an hour to make the final climb to the top before sunrise.
Of course, we were not alone, not by any stretch of the imagination – there were hundreds making the walk with us in the dark, carrying flashlights and breakfasts. It was really quite a sight to see the long row of swinging flashlights behind us and in front of us, forming a luminescent caterpillar up the mountain. As at Karak and Petra, we were not alone. Small stands dotted the trail, offering everything from tea to cokes to snickers bars, not to mention camels for those who realized mid-climb that it was quite a hike and blankets to keep warm at the top of the mountain. Our guide was terrific, helping us up the steep steps, making sure we got good camels, keeping the touts away, and making sure we had a good climb. (Immediately, the difference between the tour company in Jordan and the one in Egypt was apparent. The Jordanian agent was very nice but definitely had cut some corners; the Egyptian agency made sure we had a good guide and paid him and the camel owners enough to make sure we were properly taken care of).
As soon as we arrived at the top we staked out our position and … Ellery fell asleep! Got to hand it to that kid, she’s adaptable. As the sky slowly brightened, a group in front of the old church started singing hymns while another group of Germans seemed intent on laughing at their piety, but for the most part,
everyone sat still and watched as the mountains around and below us revealed themselves. Because of the haze, you don’t really see the sun rise as much as the slow dawning of the day, but it was a magical experience. Ellery and I quietly sang the Sh’ma, in part in response to the hymns, in part because it just seemed right.
After a while, pictures were taken and we made the 2 hour trek down the mountain for a quick trip to St. Katherine’s Monastery at the base of Mt. Sinai.
Then it was back to the car and the long drive across the desert, under the Suez Canal to Cairo, where we quickly settled into our hotel overlooking the Nile.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 30, 2008 from 'Uqrat Safhah, Egypt

Badalingzhen, China
Another half-hour and we were at the Great Wall. The drive itself was beautiful -- luscious green mountains, spectacular scenery. The road parallels the train tracks from Russia -- it must be a magnificent trip. Arrivig at the Wall is another thing entirely -- thousands and thousands of tourists and all the accompanying tee shirt and gift shops. Still, the Wall itself is really amazing as it snakes up and down the crest of the mountain range. You can climb either to the left or the right -- quite a trek to the top. It's very steep in parts, people sliding all over. but the climb was well worth it -- the view and the majesty of it all was really overwhelming. Apparently you can continue on -- fewer tourists and the Wall not yet restored in some parts but I was definitely too tired (and running short of time). So Paul, his mum, and I headed back down for some souvenir tee shirts and cold coke.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 12, 1987 from Badalingzhen, China

Say Goodbye To Hollywood
Houston, United States
Wrapping it all up, our last two travel days were a nice, slow re-entry.
Saturday morning was spent poolside at the hotel, with Ellery and Fletcher playing their wonderful imaginary games. Around 1 p.m., it was finally time to say goodbye, check out of the hotel and head, almost literally, across the street to the tiny Placencia airport and fly to Belize City, and then to Houston.
At the hotel in Houston, we were greated by friends Leslie and Phil and their kids, Rachel and Gabe, for a late by satisfying dinner. Then, this morning, it was back to the airport and the flight home.
And so, we are home. At least physically.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 5, 2009 from Houston, United States

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Upon arriving in Rio, I checked into a great hotel in Copacabana which actually cost less than the guidebook said!
written by  shoshtrvls on March 17, 1992 from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Coimbra, Portugal
Coimbra
written by  shoshtrvls on April 12, 1995 from Coimbra, Portugal

The next morning took me errand-running. first, the very intricate and time-consuming process of getting money from my Amex card, and then to the bus station to check out departure times. This trip was accomplished on the back of a scooter, courtesy of a young guy who claimed to work in the hotel (for a fee, of course).
It was then more relaxing by the pool, lunch included, before the scooter guy came and picked me up for yet another tour of the Medina. I ran into Sam (?) and got the opportunity to see the tanneries and finally gave in to temptation and bought a killim.
Night included dinner at a cafe overlooking Djeema el Fina (and who was there but Mohammed from Fes, probably trolling for another tourist) before wandering down into the square. The hustlers were few and I spent several minutes buying a stuffed camel from a guy who looked like a young Omar Sharif -- gorgeous, dark skin, long eyelashes, etc.

Agra, India
Upon arrival in New Delhi, we were promptly met at the airport by our driver (no Dorji he) and began the arduous journey to Agra. I had forgotten how dirty, crowded, noisy, congested and completely poverty-ridden India is. It seemed to take forever to get out of New Delhi, and it was very hard on Ellery, especially when the children crowded around our car begging for money.
Even once out of Delhi, things were wretched the entire drive, something I don't recall from my last visit. The stalls, stands, and waste along the roadside was overwhelming, while trucks, cars, bikes, horses, motor rickshaws and even camels vied for space. Cows, bulls, oxen, water Buffalo, sheep and goats lined the road.
Five hours later we arrived at our first stop, Akbar's tomb at Sikandra. where Ellery was far more interested in feeding the monkeys than looking at the architecture. We next stopped at the Agra Fort, which was a disappointment as it had fallen into disrepair since my last visit and was full of etched graffiti.
We got our first glimpse of the Taj Mahal before checking into our hotel and taking a long hot bath before falling asleep.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 1, 2006 from Agra, India

Marree, Australia
From Lyndhurst it was about 80 km to Marree, which consists of an old Victorian hotel right out of a John Wayne western, which is where we stayed for the night, and a "petrol" station.
Tomorrow we start the Oodnadatta Track to Ayers Rock and Alice Springs, and just learned that Lake Eyre (which we will pass tomorrow) has water for only the 3rd time since white settlers arrived (or so they say).
written by  shoshtrvls on April 5, 1990 from Marree, Australia

The ride back to Beijing was about two hours, during which everyone slept. From the Beijing-Toronto Hotel, I again journeyed to the Beijing Hotel for a coke in the lobby - a definite gather place for tourists from all over. There I met two Stanford B-School grads who were traveling for the summer and had just arrived in Beijing. We talked for a bit and they pointed out a nearby Opera Hall on the map. So my evening plans were set. I walked up Wangfiying (?) street and easily found the theater in a little alley to the right. I bought my ticket and began the search for dinner, eventually finding a long row of food stalls. Everything was only 20 fen and very good -- I had egg rolls, skewered meat (hopefully port and not cat) and a few other things as well. This was a definite find.
The opera was something else. There were three acts (three separate stories) with an intermission after the second. The first had three male characters who, I think, were fighting over a woman. The second was three women, one requiring forgiveness from another, with the third acting as an intermediary. The third act was the best with incredible costumes and acrobatics (and of course I ran out of film). This one seemed to be about two warring armies and about twenty to thirty actors were involved.
Peking opera is really different. The music is loud banging on traditional instruments (discovery of my earplugs from the bar exam was really welcomed) with only a few semi-melodic passages played on stringed instruments. What little actual singing there is is a high-pitched whine. Mostly though the actors talk or simply mime. Much of it is really acrobatics and sword fights. The costumes and makeup are stunning and a lot of posing goes on. It was definitely an event I'm glad I saw.
After the show I attempted to walk home but when I arrived at the Overseas Chinese Hotel rather than the Beijing Overseas Chinese Hotel, I realized that the hotel was just too far and so I grabbed a cab home.

Day 14 - Yep, Definitely Pyramids
Cairo, Egypt
Another wonderous day -- meaning another Wonder of the World.
We started the day by heading to Giza and seeing the Pyramids and the Sphinx. While not exactly in Cairo, they are part of this city. Except for the spectacle of the edifices themselves, and the life around them (the stalls, camel drivers, etc.), there's really not much "there" there, especially not after Petra. Still, they are something that should be seen, and were.
Then it was the mandatory "guide takes you to factory (shopping)" part of the trip. Surprisingly, it wasn't rugs, but instead perfume and papyrus paintings. But like rug buying, they were part of the experience and worth the detour.
Next was on to the Egyptian Museum. As everyone says, it is amazing how much is crammed into it, hundreds and hundreds of artifacts, mummies, sarcofagi and the big one: the artifacts of King Tut's tomb, including the gold mask that wasn't in the touring exhibit. (No pictures allowed, unfortunately).
Finally, we took a sunset felucca ride along the Nile to watch the sun set.
Cairo is definitely a dirty, crowded city, but not at all like the insanity I expected. Traffic moves -- no traffic lights, but many police directing the mash of cars, buses, tuk-tuks, and donkey carts. People dart in and out of it but none of it seems hectic or crazed. And right now, from my hotel balcony, I can hear a woman singing "Killing Me Softly" at an outdoor restaurant mixing with the sound of a muezzin calling the Muslim faithful to prayer, which is a perfect summary of the diversity of this city.
Tomorrow Ramadan starts and I'm really looking forward to seeing the city after dark, when people who have not eaten or drank all day come out and eat, drink and party until the early morning hours.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 31, 2008 from Cairo, Egypt

The Boulders, South Africa
Next it was on to The Boulders for penguin viewing and lunch.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 25, 2004 from The Boulders, South Africa

Coober Pedy, Australia
Woke up and went to call Tom, who wouldn't take my call! Other, more pressing, phone call I guess (a bigger name on the other line).
A quick breakfast and then up the trail, but not before seeing our first camels of the trip, in a pen in Marree. Along the way we stopped at South Lake Eyre, where I sank into the mud up to my calves (which is a long way). We drove by a few springs which produced oases and followed the track that parallels the old, abandoned Ghan railway. The dirt track road was long and dusty, with nothing in sight from horizon to horizon, except the occasional ruin of an old homestead, some still with cars rotting away.
We stopped for lunch at William Creek, a one-pub town, and the smallest in all of Australia (or so they say), set in the middle of the largest cattle ranch in the world, Anna Creek Station. At the pub there was a real outback crowd -- an aboriginal, who kept insisting that he was "Pete's head stockman" and had two horses, a race horse and an apaloosa. There were also several government workers and real tourists, in white slacks and all!
We then drove to Coober Pedy, opal mining capital of the world. Apparently, we also saw and crossed the doge fence, but we were so tired of seeing station fences we didn't realize it.
Arriving in Coober Pedy, we walked about before having dinner at John's Pizza Parlour and turning in. We still have some stone buying to do.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 6, 1990 from Coober Pedy, Australia

Agra, India
Finally, the reason we're in India -- the Taj Mahal. As impressive the second time as the first. Here we hired a guide and it was worthwhile. We took our time to truly appreciate the building. Then back to the hotel in a carriage for a few hours of rest and realization before making the journey back to New Delhi.
Perhaps because it wasn't tainted by the horrendous drive through New Delhi, I appreciated the drive back at least a bit more. We were almost caught in a sit-in strike in Agra before passing by the semi-nomadic Indians in Utter Pradesh. The stick and mud huts, flocks of sheep at times blocking the road, camels pulling huge, huge loads, women with urns and piles of grain on their heads, and even the passing elephant all looked more pastoral. We asked the driver to stop in Murthra, but he didn't -- he pretended not to understand but I think he just wanted to get home.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 2, 2006 from Agra, India

Yusufeli, Turkey
At 3 p.m. we hopped a dolmus (a small bus) to Yusufeli, a village about 3 hours north of Erzurum. The ride was spectacular, to say the least. Just outside of Erzurum, we passed fields and fields of the brightest yellow wildflowers I've ever seen. Then we began the decent into the mountains. (I know this doesn't really make sense, but Erzurum is on a high plateau, surrounded by mountains which you actually go down into). The mountains were sometimes barren and craggy, sometimes green and lush. The drive passed through several small villages, and above almost each one were the remains of a 6th or 7th century fort overlooking it all. Eventually, the road met up with the Coruh river and followed alongside it into Yusufeli.
Yusufeli is a medium-sized village set between two rivers which join to form the Coruh, and upon our arrival it was immediately apparent that we were the only visitors in town. It was also apparent that within minutes of our arrival everyone in town knew that two Americans had come, and we had several offers of places to stay. We ended up choosing a small hotel with three clean little rooms about a block from the bus stop, next to the small mosque. We of course chose the one with the private bath and hot water. It was $2 a night, the owner told us. Mark and I looked at each other. The owner, thinking our look meant that the price was too high, assured us "it is my best price, really." We didn't argue.
We also make it known to the hotel owner that we were interested in hiking and rafting, and that anything he could do to help us would be appreciated. The owner then explained that since the Kurdish revolt began five years ago, tourists had stopped coming that far east (despite the fact that the problems were much further south) and so the only two rafting outfitters had closed up shop. But the owner promised that he would see what he could do.
Within fifteen minutes, there were two men at our door. One was a former rafting guide who had moved to Kas (a city on the southern coast of Turkey) to find work but was back in town for a week or so to see his family. He said that he would try to find his old raft and paddles and set something up for the next day, but that any trip would have to be limited to only one day as he had to return to Kas the following night. The other man was a trekking guide, who proudly showed us a Mountain Travel-Sobek catalogue a few years old which included his picture as one of the trail guides who led the plush tours for which the crazy Americans paid thousands of dollars. But for us, $20 a day. We talked to them both for a while (their English was quite good--all those Mt. Travel groups I guess) and made plans to go rafting the next day, and possibly hiking the following day.
Then it was dinner at a small restaurant (one of only three in town) overlooking the river which flows through the village. We ate the usual salads plus some wonderful river trout while talking with a 10-year-old boy who attended an English-language boarding school (apparently as the result of scoring the highest in the region on some national exam) and was home for the summer.
Besides the guides, this little boy and our hotel owner who spoke very broken English, the only English anyone else in Yusufeli knew were two questions: "What is your name?" and "Where are you from?" And I mean that seriously; while taking an evening stroll up and down the three blocks that comprise Yusufeli's main street (the evening activity for everyone in Yusufeli who wasn't sitting in tea houses drinking and smoking), at least 30 men and children (no women) came up to us and simply asked those two questions, listened to our responses, smiled and then walked away. One or two surprised us by first asking, "I walk with you to practice English?" We agreed, of course, expecting real conversation, but were then hit with only those same two questions. It was rather amusing, I must say.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 8, 1996 from Yusufeli, Turkey

Essaouira, Morocco
The next, and really last, day of my trip was spent in Essaouira, a small fishing village about 2 hours' drive from Marrakech. Quiet, laid-back (only a few hustlers) and great for wandering, taking photographs, etc. I met a guy who lived in NY for a year who showed me around -- no charge! Had a mound of shrimp for lunch.
Alas, then it was back to Marrakesh, the night train to Tangier.
written by  shoshtrvls on May 31, 1991 from Essaouira, Morocco

Coimbra, Portugal
Coimbra
written by  shoshtrvls on April 13, 1995 from Coimbra, Portugal

Just part of the return trip.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 1, 1991 from Marrakech, Morocco

Foz do Iguacu, Brazil
Unlike Puerto Iguazu on the Argentine side, Foz seems to be a metropolis, and a none too pretty one at that. After some stops at the Varig office (to buy my plane ticket to Rio) and the tourist booth, we eventually found our way to the Brazilian side of the Falls.
We were dropped off in front of a lovely pink hotel, reminiscent of the Beverly Hills Hotel. From there we could view the falls, as well as the many raccoons so trained by previous tourists that it was possible to pet them (as they sniffed and scratched your bag for food).
A short path led to different views and different falls, eventually ending right next to a rather large on. Admittedly, the sope of the falls was tremendous, but I did not find them as beautiful or majestic as the guidebook suggested.
Back in Foz, Matthew and I said our good-byes and I returns to Puerto Iguazu for dinner and bed.
written by  shoshtrvls on March 16, 1992 from Foz do Iguacu, Brazil

Cape Point, South Africa
Then it was on to Cape Point, where we climbed to the lighthouse and took our time at the tide pools. We also saw our first monkey of the trip.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 25, 2004 from Cape Point, South Africa

Day 15 - Titi Typeface
Cairo, Egypt
Well, vacation is almost over and I think Ellery is ready to be home. Me too, just a bit. There's only so much new information and experiences that the mind can take in at one time.
This morning started with an early drive through the countryside surrounding Cairo to Saqqara, home of the oldest pyramids, including the Step Pyramid of Zoser. Unlike the Pyramids at Giza, the Step Pyramid is surrounded by the remains of an ancient temple complex where you can really get a feeling for the power that these early Kings had. The area isn't excavated well, but the entrance, a long corridor of columns between which there were once statues, gives one a sense of what must have been here. And in the distance, you can see even more pyramids (which I presume are in Dahshur).
More inspiring, however, is the nearby tomb of Titi. Inside, the hieroglyphics remain relatively intact, and are carved on every wall and ceiling. The detail is truly amazing, how the fine lines and exquisite drawings and even many of the colors and tints remain. No pictures are permitted inside but even if they were, I doubt it would convey what it is like to be surrounded by the life story of one king etched on walls 5,000 years old.
We returned to Cairo through the same lush, palm-filled, farmland, past water buffalo, donkey carts, and herds of sheep and goat, and made our way to Coptic Cairo, one of the oldest parts of the city where the narrow streets lead to Greek Orthodox churches and even one Synagogue.
Then it was lunch at an incredibly tacky buffet restaurant on the Nile (note to self: don't ask a tour company to include meals) before returning to the hotel for an afternoon swim.
Although we have tried several times throughout this trip to visit a hammam, we have been spectacularly unsuccessful. The one we went to in Aqaba didn't have women's hours on the day we went, and it seems that all the "good" ones in Cairo are either closed or booked full due to Ramadan. So tonight I suspect we'll head to the main part of downtown Cairo for an easy dinner and a visitor's eye view of what happens during Ramadan when the sun goes down.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 1, 2008 from Cairo, Egypt

Day 14 & 15
Tangier, Morocco
Nothing to post -- left Morocco today, heading back to Madrid, and will fly home tomorrow.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 1, 1991 from Tangier, Morocco

Figueira da Foz, Portugal
Figueria da Foz
written by  shoshtrvls on April 14, 1995 from Figueira da Foz, Portugal

New Delhi, India
The honking of horns, the extreme filth and poverty roadside and the eventual din of New Delhi, flooded roads and all, reminded me constantly of what a horrid country this really is. Not stopping at Murthra might have been a good thing because thanks to all that traffic we didn't arrive at our oasis of a hotel until after 6 p.m.
We went window and carpet shopping in the hotel and had a nice Italian dinner before turning in.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 2, 2006 from New Delhi, India

Uluru (Ayers Rock), Australia
After buying some opals in the morning, today was a rather boring one, driving the Stuart Highway and Lassiter Highway as far as Curtain Springs Station. Nothing to see, really, except lots of red sand and dirt and basic, unquaint truck stops. Nothing like the real outback feel of the last three days.
Tonight is spent on the Station, watching the sun set over Mt. Conner.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 7, 1990 from Uluru (Ayers Rock), Australia

My last day in Beijing, I set out early for the Lama Temple, only two blocks away. However, I was a little too early as the temple didn't open until 9 a.m. (as opposed to the guide book hour of 8:30 a.m.) Many people gathered at the entrance -- one old woman wanted to touch my leg and boots to see what they felt like. Finally the temple opened. As the guide book stated, it was certainly the most beautiful temple I saw. Much larger than I expected, the architecture and idols were really fascinating, as were the many monks, both young and old, who were everywhere. Another interesting feature was the tapestries, all very intricate and beautiful, something I hadn't seen before.
My next destination was the Temple of Heaven on the other side of the city -- a one bus trip according to the map. So I waited for the 116 to arrive, which it did. Along with several other people I jammed myself into the crowded bus and handed the woman ten fen -- apparently enough. The bus ride seemed to take forever, due in part to a large traffic jam around Chang An. Eventually, I showed the woman where I wanted to go on the map, and she told me where to get off.
The Temple of Heaven is situated in a large park. Inside, people slept on benches, practiced various forms of martial arts (one with a stick, another "boxing") and attended various sideshows - everything from motorcycle stunts to mini-zoos to acrobatics shows. The Temple itself was, well, another temple, by now a rather uninteresting sight. It was a long walk and I was hoping to find a cab at the exit but no such luck, so I began walking and walking and ... finally, I decided to try the bus system again - a little trickier as it required two buses to get back to the Beijing Hotel but I was helped by two very nice women, one of whom spoke very good English. I had lunch at the hotel and while I'm sure I had plenty of time to grab a cab out to the summer palace (very beautiful in the pictures) or walk to Bahai Park, I decided to rest my weary eet and hang out at the hotel all afternoon, a decision I now somewhat regret, especially since I didn't meet anyone interesting to talk to.
Several hours later I caught a cab to the airport (stopping at my hotel to pick up my luggage) and was soon on my way back to Shanghai.
Beijing was very different from Shanghai. While it didn't look as European, there were many more westerners in the city. The lifestyle seemed quite different, somewhat poorer in the outlying areas, definitely more agrarian in the area around the city and in the heart, somehow cheaper, not as real, a little flashy. There was also little or no hanging laundry, quite different from Shanghai.

The plane arrived in Shanghai around 11 p.m. and I hopped into the sorriest little cab for the ride to the Peace Hotel. My room was in the older building - the bathroom was not the cleanest but the room had wood paneling, high ceilings, definitely 1930's elegance. I promptly fell asleep.
A few thoughts on China in general. Throughout China I saw only one beggar, although there were several dirty children near the Great Wall and a couple of three card monte, chinese-style, artists. However, you couldn't walk around for five minutes without being accosted by black marketers wanting to change money. People spit everywhere, quite loudly, and say by squatting, often with legs spread wide.

Uluru (Ayers Rock), Australia
As I write this, I am sitting in the middle of the Olga Gorge, a spectacular place in the middle of the Olgas, a range of monoliths, or huge (really huge) boulders, like mountains. The hike here was an easy one (although Peter and Gretchen have yet to arrive) and the scenery certainly worthwhile.
We woke up this morning and I went for a short "walk about" to pet my emu friend harry (as named by Peter) and saw my first dingo. Cute little tan animal. We then drove to the Yulara Resort on the outskirts of the Uluru National Park and pitched our little tent at the Ayers Rock Campground. Yulara is an interesting place -- brand new, perfectly planned. We made a quick stop at the Visitor's Center and a bite to eat, before driving to the Olgas (known in aboriginal as Kata Tjuta).
After the Olgas we drove back to the campsite and lazed around the swimming pool before walking back to the main part of Yulara. Here we wandered through shops, had a beer and then went to watch the sun set over Ayers Rock (Uluru), althoug hthe cloud cover made the viewing less than spectacular. It also ruined our attempt to go star gazing, but such is life.
Overnight, it poured rain, but out little tent kept us dry throughout. Afterwards, I heard a kangaroo mouse hopping around just outside our tent.
(Notes: Canadians, Irish, hitchhikers, catapillar train, road trains)
[I remember what "road trains" meant -- on the open highways, there are tractor trailers cabs pulling dozens of trailers, like a train. pretty remarkable]
written by  shoshtrvls on April 8, 1990 from Uluru (Ayers Rock), Australia

Yusufeli, Turkey
I began my morning by sitting alongside the river reading a book (Anne Rice's latest Vampire tale, Memnoch the Devil) while Mark slept in. At 10 a.m. the rafting guide came by and we walked together to a dolmus which had a deflated raft tied to the top and paddles, life vests and helmets shoved in the back. After picking up two of his friends who would accompany us in the raft and a guy with a video camera (who was making a "Come to Yusufeli for a great vacation"-type of video to be sent god knows where), we began the drive further into the mountains on a dirt road that offered yet more incredible views of the mountains, farmers plowing rice patties with oxen, donkeys laden with hay, and old men hunched over walking sticks. After about three hours we got out and proceeded to inflate the Russian-made six-person raft . . . with a hand pump . . . slowly . . . discovering a host of leaks as the raft inflated. No question, this raft had not touched water in quite a while and the patch kit got plenty of use. But eventually the raft was ready and we took off down the river.
Although the river was somewhat low and thus the rapids not as challenging as I had hoped, it was still a great day. Rafting through gorges in the mountains of Eastern Turkey--what more could one want out of life? We stopped twice at small villages for tea and so it took us about six hours before we arrived back in Yusufeli. Best of all, Mark, who had dreaded this part of the trip (rough and tumble Mark is not), had a blast. We hadn't even pulled the raft out of the river before he started asking the guide if there was any way to do the other river the next day. Alas, it was not to be.
After a brief early evening nap, the standard trout dinner by the river, and the familiar stroll up and down the main street eating ice cream and saying our names and where we came from over and over again, we called it a very satisfying day.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 9, 1996 from Yusufeli, Turkey

Back in Lisbon

This last day was a blur. After a lazy morning at the hotel and after I bought the most beautiful carpet I've ever seen, we hired a driver, a good one this time, and drove all over New Delhi. A stop at Masjid-i-Jahan Numa was well worth it, except we were cautioned not to walk around in the area so we were quite restricted in what we could see of the bazaar. Then the Red Fort was closed, and we spent an excruciating few hours in the sweltering heat at the zoo and the old fort. We saw Humayan's Tomb and drove by the India Gate and through the government buildings before going to the airport and heading home.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 3, 2006 from New Delhi, India

Day 16 - Now That's Bazaar
Cairo, Egypt
Cairo is a difficult city in many ways and has definitely worn us out. But that's not to say that we've given up. Today, our final day, we toured Islamic Cairo - the Citadel, a few mosques, and the bazaar. Frankly, all were pretty unimpressive but Ellery did some good bargaining for tchotchkies.
It's been a really great trip but its definitely time to come home.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 2, 2008 from Cairo, Egypt

Another day at sea -- through the Drake Passage, lectures on humpback whales, flora & fauna of Tierra del Fuego, ice (which I missed) and krill filled our day. The seas were much rougher than on the way over, although still bearable.
Dinner was delightful, with Bill and Ruth, Carole, Corey, Franklin, and George and Chris Llano. Bill bought some champagne and we toasted to new friends and Antarctica and listened to George's tales of his life.

Another interesting train ride, as someone decided to commit suicide by train between Lisbon and Madrid.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 15, 1995 from Madrid, Spain

Uluru (Ayers Rock), Australia
Peter and I were up before dawn, hoping to catch sight of the Sunrise over Uluru before making "the climb." However, like the previous evening, the clouds prevented us from seeing anything spectacular.
We then drove on to the rock and made the ascent. It only took me about 1hr15min, but was quite a bit more difficult than I expected. A chain link helped hikers up and down the most difficult part. However, the climb was rewarded with magnificent views of the Olgas, Kings Canyon, the McDonnells and Mr. Conner -- almost 90 km away. I stood in line to sign the book at the top with a Japanese girl traveling alone, who spoke no English, Martin, a rock-n-roll teacher from Ontario, and someone from Michigan. Coming down was neither fun nor easy, but I made it.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 9, 1990 from Uluru (Ayers Rock), Australia

I started the day by taking a walk down the Bund, a few side streets and ending up at the Friendship Store, where I promptly bought some bottled water for the boat trip. Then it was back to the Peace Hotel before I put on my pack and headed for the boat dock. It was a fair walk, quite interesting to walk along the Harbor and the area around the Shanghai Mansions.
The waiting room was up several flights of stairs and very warm. I ran into Claus there (who I had met when I first bought the tickets) and met some other fellow travelers -- Americans who taught English in northern China. Finally it was through customs and another long walk to the boat.
Not quite the "love boat," but a real cruise ship (Hoboken, 1957). The cabin was better than expected, really quite nice, private bath. There was even a swimming pool (dubbed the goldfish bowl by a fellow passenger).
While there were quite a few Hong Kong Chinese aboard, most were westerners on their way either home or to Thailand. Across the hall from me resided Andy, an engineer from New York on his way home after traveling through Thailand and China. I also met a Young couple from California teaching English in Beijing -- he was in the midst of applying to law schools, including Hastings, so we talked for a while. Then came a survey of the ship and dinner, where I met another couple -- she was Belgian, he was getting his doctorate in Belgium but was from New York. The two of them, Claus and I spent most of the time together for the rest of the trip -- eating meals, playing cards, sharing books.

Days 15 & 16
Not really coming to you from Hong Kong, but rather the ship, on the way to Hong Kong.
After trading CITS horror stories (of which I had non but then again I wasn't on the budget plan), there's not much else to do but read, sleep, play cards and eat (and write in this journal). Quite relaxing -- its really great meeting all these fellow travelers and sharing stories and tips. Now, if they could shorten the trip to 1 day ...
Another problem is, of course, hearing about everything you missed or didn't have time for, like the Moscow-Beijing train ride or the boat from Chung King to Wuhan, which was supposed to be beautiful (as opposed to our wasted day going from Shanghai to Nanjing), or things you won't have time for -- southern Thailand, Kathmandu to Lhasa, etc. Spending lots of time in just one country is obviously the solution, but there's just so much to see in the world. Unlike most people on this boat, I won't be traveling for six months or a year -- I have to pick the major spots. By the same token, until you get someplace you don't really know what those are, ie which part of the Yangtze is worth seeing. But, while I have some regrets (my obsessive personality -- I want to see everything), I'm glad I saw what I did -- a taste is better than nothing at all (better to have loved and lost theory of life).
Breakdancing -- the last evening on the boat, they planned a "disco." I missed most of it (there was a guy singing and a fan dance apparently) but I did catch a few minutes of the soon-to-be law student breakdancing! That really gave everyone a thrill.

Alice Springs, Australia
We had breakfast back in Yulara and then we broke camp for the drive to Alice Springs. We stopped along the way at Noel Fullerton's Camel Farm where Gretchen and I took a ride ... my camel was Johnny Cakes. It was bumpy coming down but otherwise fine.
We arrived a Alice Springs and checked into our accommodations before walking about town and having Mexican food for dinner.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 9, 1990 from Alice Springs, Australia

Yusufeli, Turkey
Well, after less than two days in Yusufeli, Mark and I certainly felt like we were official residents. My guess is that anyone who goes to Yusufeli is generally just passing through, so our two nights probably entitled us to a key to the city. Thus, as soon as we woke, we were excitedly told by several people in town that two women from Austin, Texas has arrived the night before. We finally met up with them (how can we miss them?) and chatted for a while -- far hardier than us, these women were looking to go on an 8-day trek. This meant that our hiking guide became otherwise occupied as the prospect of eight days of work was too much for him to turn down.
So, instead of the planned trek, our hotel owner drove us (for a small fee, of course) to Ishan, a small village high in the mountains, to visit a partially-ruined 11th Century Georgian church. Like the rest of this place, both the drive and the church were beautiful. Remarkably, many of the church's frescos remained vibrant and while the walls had crumbled, the carved pillars had withstood the test of time and continued to support the painted dome ceiling.
Right next to the church is a school and as soon as we arrived in the village (on foot . . . the drivable road ends about a mile from the village), we were surrounded by kids of all ages. They kept begging that we take their pictures -- and were disappointed to discover that we did not have Polaroid cameras. But we took their pictures anyway and promised to send them to the hotel owner, who promised to bring them back to the village. [p>
Given our finds in Kutayha and here, I've come to wonder why some sites, such as Pergamon (more on that later) and Knossos (in Crete), get so much attention while others are completely unknown. What Mark and I saw in these little towns was far more impressive, better preserved, and more interesting than the huge sites. But, of course, I'm glad it is this way. No other tourists to jostle you, to make you embarrassed to be an American ("Herb, there are no toilets in the bathrooms--just holes in the floor. Don't they understand hygiene here?"), to interfere with the real pleasure that comes from exploring these places.
Anyway, after Ishan it was back to Yusufeli for our afternoon siesta before an attempt was made to get to the church at Dortkilisie, supposedly larger and in even better shape than the one at Ishan. But it is also more remote, and can be reached only after a 6 km hike from the road. Well, Mark and I clearly started out too late in the day; the trail was steeper than we expected and so our progress was slowed considerably. That we couldn't make it before dark was eventually confirmed by a girl of about 14 who spoke impeccable French as she led her pet goat into his pen. So after about two hours, we turned around without seeing the church. Still, it was a beautiful shaded hike through tiny villages, along a rushing creek and besides small planted fields.
On the way back down the mountain, Mark and I had our first (and only) fight of the trip. It had nothing to do with traveling, of course, but was substantial nonetheless. So Mark took off down the mountain, allowing me to take my time returning to the road . . . picking berries off of trees, making small talk as best I could with a few people here and there. But I didn't take too long because I was certain that Mark would be waiting in Takke, the village at the road, so we could catch a dolmus back to Yusufeli.
Well, I was wrong; Mark was apparently quite mad because I arrived a Takke only to be told that my husband (the assumed relationship) had already left, walking the road to Yusufeli (a good 10 km) in what was now becoming darkness. This, of course, made me even angrier because I would not have left him alone on a mountain, no matter how upset I was. Anyway, I waited a short time for a dolmus before also heading down the road on foot. Eventually, an already full taxi drove by and stopped for me; I squeezed in for the ride, thinking to myself that Mark must have done the same thing by now. But within a few minutes we passed Mark on the road. Fine, I thought. Let him walk it alone.
When I got back to Yusufeli, I went to watch the rafting video made the day before, which was not bad. It was edited well, and included of the rafting trip, as well as video of the two women from Austin walking on a trail somewhere, the restaurant by the river, a fortress on a hill, and a few other worthwhile sites. From watching the tape you would think that Yusufeli was a regular Yosemite with all the conveniences. Then I waited for Mark. And waited. And walked around the town looking for him. And went to the hotel looking for him. By now it was, of course, pretty dark outside and I was worried. So I found the hotel owner (not difficult, of course, as he was in one of the tea houses watching a soccer match) and had him to drive with me up the road. We stopped several times to ask villagers if they had seen him; all said yes, that he had passed through some time ago. We eventually returned to Yusufeli to find Mark sitting in front of the hotel. He said he went right back to the hotel, so I really can't figure out how we missed each other. In any event, we had it out -- I told him that I was going to go my own way after Yusufeli. He said that was fine with him.
Just as we were finishing up this conversation, however, there was a knock at the door. Our rafting guide (who decided to leave a day later) and a friend of his had come to talk. And we spent over two hours discussing economics and politics, both Turkish and American. And of course, by the time it was over, Mark and I were no longer angry with one another.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 10, 1996 from Yusufeli, Turkey

Today was an early start as we began leaving the ship around 8:30 at Couverville Island. While the island itself was nice -- gentoo penguins, fur seals playing like Sam and Grover, crabeater seals on nearly every ice flow,the highlight was the Humpback Whales. Both before and after our visit to the island, they played with us, coming alongside the zodiac popping up without warning, close enough to touch. Fortunately, I ran out of film and so could concentrate on their movements (although not to save them from for posterity). In particular on the way back two will play with our three zodiacs for over an hour. The spyhopped, flipped, waived with their finds, swam alongside the zodiacs, etc. Once, one even brought his huge eye up and stared at us for several minutes. Spontaneous cheering followed every movement. They even followed us back to the ship and waived good bye with their tail flukes. In was incredible, nothing I could have imagined before I came on this trip.
After lunch, as we sailed further north, we came upon several more whales, including one right whale, which I missed. While we obviously were not as "up close and personal" with these, they did breech for us and did a lot of fin waiving.
We then made a stop near Fayn Harbour, site of a 1920's shipwreck, but our hardy scout troop was unable to find either a place to land or anything interest to see, so we moved on to Charlotte Bay.
The sun came out for a bit and we found some more humpbacks for the zodiacs to play with. This time, however, I stayed on board and got an entirely different view. When the whales were near the boat and close to the surface, you could see their entire bodies. Also, you could follow their movements because you could see their white flippers just under the surface. It was interesting to see the zodiacs from a bird's eye view.

Alice Springs, Australia
Slept well last night. Had breakfast then took a walk about Alice Springs. I mostly visited art galleries, and had my first roll of photos developed. I made two purchases -- a Barney Daniels painting and a hat. I really like the painting I got and Barney Daniels appears to be quite famous, maybe too famous and prolific. But I do like the piece and only hope I didn't spend too much money. After lunch we drove to the old telegraph station, where I am now. Your basic restored homestead buildings.
After the telegraph station it was off to the old ghan station. It was closed but we still walked around a bit before having dinner at a pizza restaurant. Then it was back o the hotel to relaze about the pool before turning in after a year-old episode of LA Law (dwarf tossing).
written by  shoshtrvls on April 10, 1990 from Alice Springs, Australia

I awoke around 6:30 - 7:00, thinking we'd be docking any minute. Well, we were near Hong King -- near Aberdeen, but we had to wait outside the shipping lanes for a while (during which they served breakfast) and then we "docked" in the middle of the Harbor, i.e. we dropped anchor and a ferry and dock came out to get us.
We got off the ferry somewhat north o Ocean Terminal; I and two others took the wrong bus but finally got it together and got to our respective abodes -- I finally checked into the Y (no tub!) around 11:30. Then, walking around I ran into Claus; we window shopped all afternoon and then met up again for dinner -- Mexican in Hong Kong (and not too bad). Then we met Jimmy and his girlfriend (the New Yorker and Belgian) and headed to Ned Kelly's, an Aussie bar with a great jazz band. First it was just the four from the boat, then another couple, then a foursome, etc. -- it was great. I kept thinking that these were really terrific times: interesting people in interesting places, the best of times so to speak.

Alice Springs, Australia
This morning it was off to the Western McDonnell Range and two stops -- Simpson's Gap and Standley Chasm. Both were nice little park areas. However, we were done by noon and realized that we had exhausted all of the possibilities of Alice Springs, or "the Alice," with six hours left to spare. This resulted in aimless wandering and a LONG relax at the Chateau Hornsby Winery.
Said good-bye to Peter and Gretchen at the airport, which I believe was perfect timing. I had had a great time and we had gotten along quite well, however I believe one or two more days together would have been too much.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 11, 1990 from Alice Springs, Australia

Erzurum, Turkey
This was another long traveling day with nothing of interest to report. Mark and I said good bye to Yusufeli about 10 a.m. (and from the way we were sent off, you would have thought we have been living there for at least a year) and caught a dolmus back to Erzurum. The drive was just as beautiful as it had been three days earlier, and even Erzurum seemed a bit more interesting. A gathering of horse-drawn carts just outside of town made it feel like we were going back in time to the wild west. Many people were out, with most of the women in full chodor (the black dresses that go from head to foot) with their entire faces covered. And the market was bustling with activity, fruit and vegetables spilling out of the stalls. But we couldn't stay as we had a plane to catch, so we made our way to the airport for the flight first to Ankara and then to Izmir on the west coast. We arrived in Izmir late and managed to find a good hotel at a decent price without too much hassle and settled in for the night.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 11, 1996 from Erzurum, Turkey

Another day in Hong Kong. First I went to the wireless office and called dad and steph -- we talked for about 15-20 minutes, then I dropped off my first six rolls of film. From there I took the subway (very clean, fast and clear) to Wong Tai Sin Temple. Fairly new, but good architecture and nice gardens. the really interesting part, however, was all the fortune-telling stalls outside. The tellers would read almost anything -- sticks, palms, faces, horoscopes.
From there I went to Lei Chen Uk Tomb, a tomb dating back to the Han Dynasty. Finding it was rather difficult. I walked around for a while -- even people who lived in the area didn't seem to know where it was, and then I discovered why -- talk about a hole in the wall! It was a tiny building which housed info about the Han Dynasty -- agriculture, etc. (pretty advanced) and some artifacts. The tomb itself was the size of my steamer trunk and all you could do was look inside at the bricks through glass! Somewhat of a waste, but walking around the neighborhood (outdoor markets, etc.) was new.
Anyway, from there I went to Hong Kong Island.

Dinner was a "gala buffet" and while I didn't eat much, the conversation was great. (I've omitted the discussion only because, for some reason, Blogabond doesn't like the sentence I've written. Very strange). Emma told us a bit about her life. We decided that she was probably the oldest person to see Antarctica and all seven continents. They also thought I was probably one of the youngest to see all even continents. What a distinction!
After dinner, Jim (also from Palmer) gave a slide show on his six months in Antarctica. Both he and Debra were very funny -- something tells me that a sense of humor is a prerequisite to getting a job here.

Today we made a first try for Deception Island, but the weather was so bad that we steamed ahead to Half Moon Island. In the interim, George Llano lectured on penguins. While he was quite interesting, his continual references to the Falklands as prime bird country opened old wounds.
Half moon was quite striking physically, with craggy rocks backed up against the white of Livingston Island. The inhabitants included the ever-present fur seals, chinstrap penguins, a couple of Weddell seals, and a few gentoo penguins. As at Paradise Harbour, the sun came out and the morning was so beautiful that no one wanted to leave. Also on the island was an old wooden boat used by the first Antarctic "cruise" ship, the La Pataia, charted by Lindblad.
But leave we did, heading for King George Island. On the way I slept through a lecture by Natalie Goodall on "small cetaceans of Tierra Del Fuego." our stop at King George was the site of three different research stations -- Marsh (Chile), Bellinghausen (Russian) and Great Wall (China).
Our landing zodiacs were met by Victor, who quickly herded us all to the several Russian shops on the island. Although we had been told that this base was closing and the trading would be good, this was not the case. They were here to stay and had gotten on the political bandwagon quite rapidly -- the store was "Russian" (not Soviet), the scientists were from St. Petersberg (not Leningrad) and there were no souvenirs with "CCCP" on them. After checking out Bellinghausen and a quick stop at the Chinese station, complete with families, I and a few other hardy souls made the long trek to the Great Wall station. Unfortunately, they were not expecting us (i.e. no souvenirs) and in fact had packed and were leaving for the season. Nevertheless, they were very warm and welcoming and they certainly had the nicest base we had seen -- clean, comfortable, nice furniture and wall hangings. (George Llano suggested that they have no real scientific work, possibly explaining the setting).
After the walk back, I actually felt as though I deserved the meal I was to eat that night. First, champagne with Mary Hammond , Ed and Eddie, Carole and Monte. Dinner was with Carole and Ed, the ship's doctor, and Eddie, his wife. They were delightful, providing much information about the ship company (Travel Dynamics) and about themselves.
Afterwards, the Greek crew made a stab at dancing and some overly sweet baclava was served. Bill Rodenbach waxed poetically on life after death and Carole and I finally said goodnight around 12:00.

August 18 (continued)
Hong Kong, Hong Kong
The Tiger Balm Gardens was my destination on Hong Kong Island. As the book warned, this was really the tackiest, gaudiest thing I'd ever seen -- and worth the trip because of it. Plaster sculptures of animals and deities painted Bright colors -- aqua, green, yellow. It was really revolting.
Then it was back to Central, where I walked through the gleaming office building arcades. I bought a pair of shorts (28" waist!!) and then back to the hotel. I took public transportation all day -- subway, buses, ferries. I walked a lot (because I often couldn't find my stop or I missed it, i.e. Tiger Balm Gardens). It was a good way to see Hong Kong.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 18, 1987 from Hong Kong, Hong Kong

Darwin, Australia
The plane to Darwin appeared to be populated solely by Americans from California. Next to me was a father/daughter pair definitely from Beverly Hills; across the aisle a businessman seemingly also from LA.
However, arrival in Darwin is what backpack travel is all about. Stepping off the plane I was immediately struck by the immense humidity, reminiscent of China and Thailand. This was reinforced when I arrived at the YHA -- basic accommodations surrounded by tens of "budget travelers" buying food at outdoor stalls, writing postcards, etc. It's great and I'm almost sorry that I have to leave so early tomorrow. But I will be back soon enough.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 11, 1990 from Darwin, Australia

Today we were back at Deception Island, and the weather, but not the wildlife, cooperated. We first took zodiac cruises around Bailey Head, hoping to see leopard seals munch on unsuspecting penguins. No such luck, however, as the penguins refused to jump into the water. Then we sailed through Neptune's Bellows and into the caldera, an active volcano. In certian parts one could see the steam rising from where the warm water met the cold air.
After lunch we made our last stop in Antarctica -- Hannah Point on Livingston Island. This stop essential brought together all of the wildlife we had seen over the last few days -- chinstraps, gentoos, fur seals. In addition there were several macaroni penguins -- fatter than the others with Bright orange feathers on their heads. They were also mellower and seemingly not disturbed by our presence. There were also numerous petral chicks -- big and fluffy. But most interesting were the molting elephant seals -- at least thirty of them -- lying along the beach.
We then said good bye to Antarctica with hot cider.
Before and during dinner (with Cory, Carole, Bob, Joan and Rod the racist), Peter Deeth began circulating a petition "censuring" Travel Dynamcis for the Falklands fiasco. The letter was completely negative and failed to recognize how incredible this trip really was and how great the on board staff was. He got few signatures fortunately.

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
At this point in the trip I stopped journaling, but my pictures reveal that I spent the day in Rio. I took the cable car up Sugarloaf but a hazy day made the view less than stunning -- one could barely see the Christ the Redeemer statue that is so symbolic of this city.
I walked around some, taking in the architecture and I remember going shopping at a great place, where I picked up a basket, a mask, and some small clay figures (which have since broken beyond repair and been discarded).
written by  shoshtrvls on March 18, 1992 from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Darwin, Australia
I awoke at about 3 a.m. to the sound of a major rainstorm but, as with most tropical storms, it was over in an hour. I waiting in the dark for the tour bus with several other people -- one guy who apparently worked at the hotel, up early for a barefooted jog around the block, a woman who worked as a tour agent up early because her boyfriend was driving a bus, and two girls from Seattle, Washington waiting for a different tour. (They were going to Thailand so I passed on a recommendation for Oot).
The tour bus, actually a modified landcruiser wagon, arrived at about 6:15. On it were two Japanese men in their twenties who spoke no English, a young girl, Sarah, from Manchester, a guy from Northern England, an obnoxious frenchman (who was at least somewhat entertaining), 2 germans, an older couple from Carlsbad, California (John and Joan), a young couple from London (Paul and Angela), a girl from Manchester (Joyce) and one other.
Our first stop was Fogg Dam, an abandoned rice farm turned into a bird preserve. Here we saw some wallabies and numerous birds.
From there it was one stop and through to Kakadu National Park, with lunch at our mosquito-infested campsite. Then it was on to a beautiful little swimming hole (Kubarma?) whose only problem was that it was a 3km walk there and back. In this heat, that was definitely a problem, especially since the truck has no air conditioning to cool us down after the return journey.
From there we went to Nourlangie Rock where Kim, our guide, did a fairly good job of telling us about the plants and aboriginal paintings.
Back to camp where we met up with another group led by Nick, a rowdy group of Australians who were fund when I wanted to stay awak, but a real pain when I was ready to fall asleep.
The mosquitoes were horrendous.
(Note: camp -- Manyallaluk or Googleyes)
written by  shoshtrvls on April 12, 1990 from Darwin, Australia

Izmir, Turkey
Mark and I got up fairly early (especially for Mark) in order to catch the "breakfast included in room rate." After filling our stomachs we headed out to the otogar to catch a bus to Selcuk, the town closest to the ruins of Ephesus. The 1-1/2 hour ride was entirely unremarkable . . . frankly, nothing can compare with the spectacular scenery of Eastern Turkey
written by  shoshtrvls on June 12, 1996 from Izmir, Turkey

August 18 (continued)
Back in Kowloon, I picked up my photos (no indoor pictures came out though -- I later discovered that my ISO had accidentally slipped from 100 ASA to 1,000! I hope that was the problem and therefore is now fixed. Also I exposed my first Beijing roll -- no Forbidden Palace). I picked up my new, cool eyeglasses ordered the day before (terrific machine which could tell your prescription, contacts in or out, just by having you focus) and walked through the Peninsula Hotel -- what a snooty bunch!
I had dinner at a place called Lindy's -- very classy (and I was wearing shorts!) but a great pepper steak and good wine -- Hirshfield prints on the walls a la Sardi's, and I began wishing I was Nina Hirshfield with my name all over the world.
fter, I, Claus, and 2 Swedish girls he knew and ran into, Jimmy and his girlfriend went to Rick's Cafe for drinks -- pretty dead (were were told there was live music every night -- not true). We left rather early and said our (forever) farewells.

A pretty nothing morning spent just hanging about Kowloon, window shopping, real shopping, etc.

Darwin, Australia
This morning we first visited another rock art site, Ubirr Rock, and again met up with Nick's group for lunch and a quick swim at the Four Seasons hotel. Then it was a "yellow waters" cruise for crocodile spotting, which was successful. Joyce, Paul, Angela and I were then loaded onto a tiny airplane and flew over the Arnemland escarpment, including Jim Jim falls, and landed in Eva Valley in Arnemland.
Needless to say, the "airport" was merely a landing strip. There we were met by Brad and Ron, two "old salts" who were to be our guides for the next three days. Brad is the younger of the two, apparently a Vietnam Vet. Ron is an ex-Buffalo hunter. In Arnemland, life is much cooler and far, far fewer mosquitoes. A trip to a nearby hill for the sunset, dinner and bed.
(Notes: wild horses, Buffalo, donkeys).
written by  shoshtrvls on April 13, 1990 from Darwin, Australia

The next day we built a road, literally. First, Ron (Bull) cooked us a wonderful breakfast of french toast, bacon and sausage. We then picked up our aboriginal guide, John, and two others, 16 year old Kerstin and 6 year old "Mr." Ed.
Our first stop was a small hill which Brad (Fletcher) attempted to locate on his grid map. (Apparently there was some dispute as to exactly which hill it was). Then it was off to "Lil" waterfall, which Brad had first found only two days earlier. I was apparently only the second white woman (along with Joyce and Angela) to see this place. (Yeah, um, right). To get there, we really did build a road, knocking down trees and moving rocks (actually, Ron, Brad & John did all that). Paul, being a road engineer, supervised.
The entire process took several hours but the destination was worth it. Our first view was from on top -- a string of several water holes. In one, we could see a crocodile swimming about. Brad then took us to see some aboriginal paintings he had discovered and we descended down to the lowest pool -- the crocodile infested on. Part of it was under an overhand which contained more paintings. We also took a short hike downstream in a failed attempt to find more paintings.
Kerstin told us that the "old woman" back in their village said her father was buried here. The aboriginals bury people by placing their bones between the rocks.
From there we went to a second swimming hole, not nearly as good as the first, before returning home (after dark) to a wonderful steak dinner.
Paul

Selcuk, Turkey
From the otogar in Selcuk we walked the 3 km to Ephesus to find . . . TOURIST MANIA!!!! The parking lot was filled with bus after bus after bus after bus . . . well, you get the idea. And, of course, there were all the visitors like us who came on local transport as a day trip from Izmir or some of the other close coastal areas. I was somewhat expecting this, of course, but coming face to face with the masses, especially so soon after enjoying the relaxing atmosphere of Yusufeli, was jarring.
However, mob scene aside, I must say, the ruins were worth it. I was expecting something like Knossos. If you've ever been there, you would know what I mean. Knossos has few original ruins left, and so some idiots decided to try and "reconstruct" the whole thing, which makes the visit there virtually useless. While there were some "replacements" at Ephesus, for the most part the actual ruins, and in particular the facade of the library (the third largest in the ancient world after Babylonia and Pergamon), were awe inspiring. And there has been sufficient excavation, particularly of the roads, to get a real sense of how the city was laid out. Mark and I shelled out $10 for a guide and it was well worth the money.
After about two hours exploring and listening to our guide, Mark and I took a taxi to the other site in Selcuk--the Virgin Mary's house. Now, I must say, this was not my idea, but Mark is a rather devout Catholic and really wanted to make the pilgrimage. Supposedly, what we saw was the house in which Mary lived out her final days. Actually, a reconstruction of the house, but built on the original foundations, per our guidebook. So Mark did his candle lighting thing, and we returned to the ruins at Ephesus.
By this time, somewhat late in the afternoon, most of the hordes of tourists, following their guides with little flags, had left and the ruins were blissfully empty with the exception of a few individual travelers like me and Mark. And it made a huge difference, so much so that Mark and I made sure to walk slowly through the ruins yet again before catching a dolmus back to Selcuk where we had lunch and visited the local museum.[p> And what a museum! The busts and the statuary, all of which had come to Ephesus, were exquisite, like I've never seen before. And they were displayed wonderfully with lighting that even the Met would be jealous of.
Finally, at 4 p.m., we grabbed what we thought was a dolmus back to Izmir, but instead it left us off in some suburb. So I became a quick study and figured out the local bus system (which wasn't easy, mind you), and got us exactly where we wanted to be, at the bazaar in the center of town. It was one of my proud independent traveler moments, I must say.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 12, 1996 from Selcuk, Turkey

Bangkok, Thailand
I took the afternoon plane to Bangkok, a taxi to the Royal Hotel, and went to bed. It was really a wasted day -- I should have gone to the beach or Aberdeen or something but just didn't feel like it.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 19, 1987 from Bangkok, Thailand

Bangkok, Thailand
I woke early and grabbed a cab to the Hilton to meet Marc. At first, I thought about not going as the Hilton, it turned out, was way out on the outskirts of town, a good 45 minute cab ride and besides Marc had been unsure of when he would get to Bangkok. In other words, did I really want to waste half the morning on the chance of meeting Marc? Eventually, I decided to go and I'm really glad I did.
Marc did show up, looking like a real hippie traveler in baggy white drawstring pants and white sleeveless tea shirt. After a long hug and a trip to the Bank of America conveniently located right next door, we hopped on a bus (2 baht) to Jim Thompson's House, a tourist sight/site that came highly recommended to both of us. First, however, we stopped for breakfast -- I had Chinese style, Marc had Western. Then it was down an alley to this house which, while interesting, was hardly the great sight/attraction I had heard about. A lot of interesting Thai and Burmese art and artifacts, but that's about all. Really, the most interesting thing was the view across the canal - your basic Bangkok residential area -- wooden homes along the canal, the obligatory hanging laundry, kids running about, etc. Marc bought his fortune and we bought a postcard for Tom.
From there, Marc wanted to find a tailor to have some suits made -- the girl at the Jim Thompson's house told us about a large shopping area within walking distance but somehow we got trapped by a tout and ended up walking up and down the street going to his "recommended" tailors. We finally got rid of him and hailed a tuk-tuk to the Royal Hotel so I could buy my voucher for the previous night's room. Lo and behold, there was a tailor in the hotel so Marc had his measurements taken, picked some fabrics and styles and ordered two suits.
Next we decided to strike out for Wat Po. I thought about changing to long pants (I was in shorts) but Marc said not to worry, none of the Wats were strict about proper attire. Well, first, in an attempt to find lunch, we walked through a bazaar along the canal between the hotel and the temple. It was interesting -- people selling everything from hammers to videos (pirated, of course). Unfortunately, the only food in the bazaar was pre-cooked. We finally found a restaurant, relatively clean, and ate.
We then hailed a taxi to Wat Po where, surprise!, no shorts allowed. A little upset, I thought we'd just walk over to the main street and I'd pick up a sarong. Well, no such luck -- the nearby street was basically a food market, but what a find! Barrels of spices, garlic cloves separated by size, a fish warehouse, stalls with wandering around, an apothocary shop circa 1930's with large bottles of medicines, etc.
Eventually we got kicked out of the fish warehouse because Marc was climbing around looking for good photo angles. Our jaunt ended, we rushed back to the hotel so I could put on a pair of pants. It was either at this point or during the earlier stop that I received a note that Barb hd left for me over a week earlier! Basically, she gave me advise which I really didn't need -- where the banks were, how to pay for the room, etc., and also set out the plans she had made for us to go to Northern Thailand. I was slightly pissed but realized that it had been done with only (?) the best intentions.
Anyway, Marc and I got back to Wat Po around 4 p.m. and hired a guide who spoke very good English and explained everything quite well. There were several interesting things about the temple. First, I was amazed that they allowed peddlers onto the grounds, for Marc and I were constantly besieged by people selling embroideries, rubbings and the like. Secondly, we were told about Rama IV of "The King & I" -- which apparently banned in Thailand (as is the song "One Night In Bangkok"). I also learned about buying birds just to set them free (merit-making) and got a sample massage (another peddler trying to sell his services). Interestingly, the statues had European pants on them, the Marco Polo influence.
But the really amazing thing was the reclining Buddha -- it was so enormous that I didn't even realize I was looking at it until I recognized the crook of the elbow. It was even too big to photograph. By the time the guide took us to the bat (main hall) it was 5 p.m. -- closing time because the monks pray at 5. But instead of being kicked out, we were allowed to sit in the back and listen to the chanting. It was quite beautiful -- very melodic, not at all like the monotone chanting I expected.
From Wat Po, Marc and I went back to my hotel. No sooner did we get into the room then the phone began to ring -- it was Avi, recently arrived from San Francisco. Marc and I met him in the lobby and shared a beer, and we attempted to make dinner plans which would include Barb and Mercer (Avi's friend), neither of whom was present. We decide to meet later that evening. Marc went to his hotel to change while Avi went to take a nap. I think I did the same (I don't remember). Eventually Marc returned and promptly fell asleep on my bed. Barb finally showed up and the troops (less Marc) plus a guy Barb had met named Sath (Thai, but owned a restaurant and living in France?) headed for the red light district -- Pat Pong Road. Just walking down the street was a trip -- the touts advertising their "f...cking shows" -- they even had cards printed up listing the various acts -- "pussy opening bottle," etc. Avi kept insisting that there was good seafood restaurants nearby, but eventually we settled on a mediocre place -- everyone had Thai food but Avi, who ordered a cheeseburger.
After dinner, Avi and Mercer went to see a f...cking show while Sath took Barb and I to a really nice disco/bar called the Rome Club -- Sath apparently knew the owner. there was, of course, one catch -- it was a gay bar. But the music was good -- we all danced and I left around 12:30, apparently just before the drag show.
When I got back to my room. Marc was still asleep on the bed. What to do? Well, nothing. Absolutely nothing happened at all.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 20, 1987 from Bangkok, Thailand

The next day we sought out the Katherine River. This time we had John, Kerstin, Melinda, her aunt (same age), Kevin and Ann Marie with us. We lost the road several times and it seemed as though we drove in circles for quite a bit, but we eventually found our way there -- a peaceful little river but nothing special, and quite silty to swim in.
We returned back to camp for a major stew feast attended by at least twenty-five of the local aboriginals -- kids everywhere, and seeing them get out of the truck was like a circus act. They seemed to enjoy themselves (good food is apparently hard to come by for them) but left early as we had a long day to come.
(Notes: homestead; flat tire)

Izmir, Turkey
Within about two seconds of entering the bazaar, we were seized upon by Mustafa who of course wanted to take us to "his uncle's carpet shop." But when Mark said he was really looking for some jewelry (as I slapped the back of his head for opening his mouth), lo and behold, Mustafa's family also owned a jewelry store! I was shocked, shocked.[g> But Mustafa was particularly charming, so I didn't protest all that much as we followed him first to the jewelry shop and eventually to the carpet shop. And then I did what I promised myself I simply would not ever, ever, ever do again on any trip . . . I bought a carpet. A pretty stunning 9x11 wool number from Anatolia which now sits somewhat awkwardly on my bedroom floor. (Hey, I didn't come prepared with dimensions or anything!) And to make matters worse, Mark also bought a carpet, his second of the trip.
Tired and worn from our day at the ruins and the bazaar, and full of way too much apple tea, Mark and I had dinner at a mediocre restaurant on the Harbor and called it a day
written by  shoshtrvls on June 12, 1996 from Izmir, Turkey

Bangkok, Thailand
Still no action (or sign) from Marc, I got up and showered, he did the same. We grabbed a quick breakfast at the hotel and then went to Marc's guest house so he could get his camera. It was much cleaner than I expected and the people were friendly.
Our morning sightseeing took us to the Grand Palace, an elaborate enclosed area with many temples and beautiful murals along the walls. There were many interesting sculptures and statues but the highlight was the Emerald Buddha, rather small but set atop a high pedestal and the pedestal was surrounded by many other carvings and icons. Very elaborate and spiritual.
Next we went to Kao San Road for lunch and errands. Kao San Road was near our hotel and the main guest house "drag" - lots of shops which cater to what Lonely Planet calls the "budget traveler." I really liked it because it had a terrific fell to it -- many western travelers experiencing life in southeast asia. In fact, it was on Kao San Road that Marc and I ran into Carole and Judith Fixman on their way to the post office to ship home a package. I don't know why I don't like Carole, but I just feel uncomfortable around her -- maybe because of her relationship with Marc, whatever it may be. At any rate, Marc and I walked a little way longer and then said our goodbyes, and he even promised (again) to fly to LA for my birthday.
I then went back to the hotel to meet Barb and figure out what time to leave for the airport, etc. Since I had a few hours left, I decided to take a walk and, realizing how close the Royal Barge shed was, I set out to see the barges. This involved crossing the river, which had restaurants along its banks, and which provided an interesting view (although I was surprised that I couldn't see Wat Arum). From there I made a left and began walking through a very poor area along the river. At first the road was fairly wide but as I continued along it got much more narrow and in fact became basically a wooden path built over what was, in essence, a sewer. And the area became poorer and poorer, if that was possible. I would have thought I was lost if it weren't for the signs -- "Royal Barges 400m" and then, much more than 100m (I think), "Royal Barges 300m," etc. Along the way, people kept staring at me, saying hello, etc. And there were even what seemed to be small stores selling food. And I kept walking and following the signs. Finally, I reached the barge shed only to find -- no barges! Just empty docks and one or two covers -- elaborate but not necessarily worth the trip, except that the trip was itself worthwhile. But what I want to know is why none of those smiling faces who obviously knew why I was walking through their neighborhood didn't even try to indicate that the barges were not in their shed!
Anyway, I retraced my steps, got lost only once, and passed many children on their way home from school -- all in immaculate uniforms! I couldn't believe it and I wondered (and still do) how they could possibly keep them that clean, or wash them, in that neighborhood. Then came the biggest surprise -- just as I was getting close to a main road, I looked up and was face to face with an elephant! In the middle of Bangkok! There was even a man on top and both of them looked nearly dead. And the kids kept staring a me, not the elephant. Now, where was the elephant going? I can't imagine there being enough room for him, or the wooden path supporting all that weight.
I eventually got back to the hotel without further incident. As usual, Barb was late and having difficulties getting away from Sath. The traffic was a mess -- Barb planned an hour and we made the flight to Chain Mai only due to the incredible traffic-dodging and speed racing by our cab driver. In the end, we were only 10 minutes late -- and Barb apologized profusely, and even bought me a coke?
written by  shoshtrvls on August 21, 1987 from Bangkok, Thailand

Katherine, Australia
After an overnight rainstorm and an early wake-up call, we were on the road by 6:30 a.m. on our way to Katherine Gorge. All of a sudden we were confronted with tourism full force on the two hour cruise up the gorge -- pretty but no grand canyon.
Lunch in Katherine and then a long drive back to Darwin with a minor breakdown o nthe way (the truck wasn't meant to drive on sealed roads, I guess).
written by  shoshtrvls on April 16, 1990 from Katherine, Australia

Checked into the Atrium Hotel, a fortune but worth it as the room has a real bathtub. After using it, Paul, Angela and I had dinner at the hotel, I did my laundry and went to sleep.

Chiang Mai, Thailand
The hotel in Chiang Mai -- the Chiang Mai Plaza, was really nice, very posh and Barb and I sat in the lobby/bar, listening to a pretty good lounge lizare act (Barb even thought it was a record!), drinking and writing in our journals.
Two notes on things I noticed in Bangkok (which also held true for the rest of Thailand). First, all the doorways were raised. At Jim Thompson's House they explained that the raised doorways were to keep out evil spirits. Also, there were little shrines everywhere, usually white with red (a sacred color) smeared all over and flower garlands hanging on it. Interesting.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 21, 1987 from Chiang Mai, Thailand

Chiang Mai, Thailand
This was a tour day, part of the package deal Barbara booked in Bangkok. The morning was spent just outside of Chiang Mai in an area I think is called San Kamphaeng, which is full of various "factories" where they produce hand the made items for which Chiang Mai is famous. However, the tour was just one factory after another where you spent about three minutes watching the craftsman and twenty minutes telling your assigned salesperson that you didn't want to buy anything.
Some of it was interesting though. The first factory produced lacquer and silverware and was definitely the best (they also had the best shop with some very interesting little f...cking dolls and antique buddha I almost bought). Next came the silver factory. What was amazing there was how some of the artisans copied some very intricate designs only by sight. After that was the teak shop, pretty boring after about two seconds of watching someone with an awl. The fourth shop made umbrellas and fans from both paper and silk. The last (finally!) was the silk factory which did hold my attention because the weaving seemed so difficult (but monotonous as well). Barbara bought birds for merit-making.
From there we went to lunch at a Japanese restaurant (!) which was quite pretty and had a couple of monkeys out front. After lunch we began the long, terrifying, but beautiful bus ride up to Doi Suthep, a buddhist temple located on a mountain overlooking Chiang Mail, a city infinitely more appealing than Bangkok. The temple was pretty uninspired except for the view which was quite hazy the day we were there. So we walked around the temple for a while (which you need to take a tram up to) and then looked at some jade factories/shops just below the temple. The bus had a tv in it on which our driver was watching professional wrestling wrestling while waiting for us. Anyway, it took about two hours to get back to Chiang Mai -- everyone slept.
Once we got back to Chiang Mai, Barbara and I made arrangements for a three-day trek to the hill tribes. Summit Tours had been recommended to us but they were closed so we went next door to a place called Galare Travel and hired a guide (the owner) whose nickname was Oot -- the sound a pig makes, he explained. He seemed nice, knowledgeable and trustworthy and so we were set.
We then went back to the hotel for a while and then had dinner at a fairly decent outdoor restaurant where we tried a really interesting banana-like fruit. Afterwards, we walked through the night bazaar for a bit and I began down the path of becoming an international smuggler by buying a supposedly antique wooden Burmese buddha. Antique or not, since the export of ANY buddhas from Thailand is forbidden without government approval, I had taken the first step.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 22, 1987 from Chiang Mai, Thailand

For some reason, I was up literally at the crack of dawn, probably due to my previous five days of camping. Called Tom. Went to the Smith Street mall running my errands -- drop off film, going to the bank, etc. Then I went on this "Mangroves and Mudcrabs" tour, only I was the only one! Still, it was lots of fun -- the owners were really nice, and the barramundi and crabs were great.
Upon my return, I picked up my pictures, ran into Ron, made copies for Terra (??), did some window shopping. Dinner at a nice Chinese restaurant at Pratap, where the "kiwi" waiter was quite friendly.

Bergama, Turkey
Another ruin adventure, this time to Pergamon. This involved another 1-1/2 hour bus ride, which was a bit more scenic than the last--unlike the ruins, which were . . . to put it mildly . . . shit. Maybe we were spoiled by Kutayha and Ephesus, but I think not. And the local museum . .. pffft. Definitely not worth the effort. So we were back on the bus for Izmir by 1 p.m. and back at the bazaar by 2:30 p.m.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 13, 1996 from Bergama, Turkey

Checked out of my wonderful, luxurious hotel after a really good night's sleep and walked down to Doctor's Gulley to watch the fish feeding, then walked back into town for several hours' window shopping. Met a really nice Australian couple with an adorable nine month old. Got back to the hotel and ran into Paul and Angela. We viewed each others' photos and exchanged addresses before heading to the airport and flying to Cairns.

Chiang Rai, Thailand
(The next few posts will appear to be dispatched from Chiang Rai, but we were actually up in the hills north of Chiang Rai).
Fly to Chiang Rai, couldn't get an early plane so took the second flight out with our guide Oot. He bought food (cash me) and we waited in restaurant. then walked a little ways to boat dock -- took long flat motorized boat up the Mai Kok river to Karen Village, a village where various Karens (red, etc.) had come down from the hills to live. from there, on elephant back (elephant name was Me Bunne) up rather steep and muddy hill to a Yao Village. It started to pour just before we arrived. Interesting features -- animals under huts, headdresses like Turbans, jackets with red fur/fringe. Oot's a good cook. Smoke filtered cigarettes through a bamboo bong.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 23, 1987 from Chiang Rai, Thailand

Chiang Rai, Thailand
Walked to forest center, like a tea house. then to a Lahu village -- Jaelae -- to watch a man smoke opium. Had to cross river then to the Mae Sai waterfall and back to the forest center for a long afternoon nap. Then steep hike THROUGH jungle (what Marc calls a Viet Nam experience) to Akha Village called Adu. Two fireplaces, one for tea, "people" the other for drying meats, etc. Had to pass through gate - evil spirits. Children spoke English and French, sang row, row, row your boat adn Frere Jacques. They sang for us after dinner (Oot gave candy) and we taught them 99 bottles of beer (starting with 10). then massages -- different style than Yao -- into coins and silver.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 24, 1987 from Chiang Rai, Thailand

Cairns, Australia
Checked into the hostel and had dinner with a strange Swedish fellow who told me about all the girls he had been "involved with" on his travels.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 18, 1990 from Cairns, Australia

Izmir, Turkey
We strolled through the bazaar for quite a bit, yesterday's trip having been aborted by Mustafa, and somehow managed to keep most of our Turkish Lira in our pockets. Instead, we focused on people watching and we finally asked somewhat what the "little king" costumes in all the clothing shops were. These outfits, for little boys, are suits, generally silk or satin, with a shoulder sash and crown a la Miss America. Well, here's the story (men take note). Jewish law requires that boys be circumcised at 7 days. Islamic law interprets whatever portion of the scriptures that deals with circumcision as requiring it at 7 *years.* That's right . . . boys get circumcised when they are SEVEN YEARS OLD! Apparently, in order to trick them into thinking that this is something fun and exciting, on the day they get circumcised, they have a big party (not unlike a bar mitzvah I gathered) and they get to be the king! And they get to wear their king costume for the whole week!
At the suggestion of the guide book, at dusk we climbed to the fortress on the top of the hill which overlooks Izmir and listened to the sounds of the muezzins calling the faithful to prayer. Because each mosque has a muezzin, and because there are so many mosques, it sounds like an echo rising up from the city, over the hill and into the heavens--a very spiritual experience, not unlike hearing the same haunting melody rising from the mist over the lakes near Srinigar. And, according to the British couple who were at least 80 years old and sitting at the cafe table next to us, it is also very romantic.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 13, 1996 from Izmir, Turkey

Cairns, Australia
Well, it's pouring rain, and I had to walk through substantial amounts of it, backpack and all, to get to the boat which will take me to a rain soaked island and the great barrier reef. Well, we shall see.
The island was rain drenched. I took a boat to Moore's Reef for some snorkeling. While the ride over was quite choppy, the skies cleared (well, the rain stopped at least) and we had several hours of trouble-free snorkeling. While the conditions were not the best (not a lot of sunlight and a cyclone had stirred up the water a few weeks earlier), the variety of fish was spectacular, all brightly colored, swimming peacefully or darting in and out of the coral.
A short glass-bottom boat trip revealed a few sharks and a variety of information.
It started to pour again just as we left the reef. The afternoon was spent hiding from the rain while dinner was a mediocre and expensive buffet.
After dinner things improved somewhat. I met a Canadian woman (Vicky) and we went, along with Edward, an American I had met earlier, to the bar and drank some beer and talked with Dave, one of the resort workers, and a very drunk couple whose honeymoon was being ruined by the rain. The resort was nice enough, small, quite a few families. After drinks it was bed.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 19, 1990 from Cairns, Australia

Chiang Mai, Thailand
Walked down to Thai Village then bus to Chiang Rai airport. Flew to Chiang Mai. I spent all afternoon in airport (didn't feel like going out). Barb went into Chiang Mai with Oot (twice) to see temples and have dinner, which she said was totally flooded.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 25, 1987 from Chiang Mai, Thailand

Then we flew to Bangkok and stayed at the airport hotel.

Cairns, Australia
I was up early due to the constant beeping of someone's alarm clock or watch. However, my early arrival was welcomed by a very tame kangaroo who was looking about for breakfast. He was the island mascot I later learned. Fishermen had actually found her floating in the open seas several kilometers away after a cyclone.
Vicki and I did a short but intensive hike to the lighthouse. Despite the fact that the rain had stopped, however, instead of canoing or snorkelling around the island, I relaxed in the shade, reading my book and talking to Dave.
Back in Cairns, I walked about the town a bit before going to the airport. It turned out to be quite a nice little place, and I wish that I had had more time there.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 20, 1990 from Cairns, Australia

This morning was spent at the Archeology and Ethnology museums in Izmir, both of which were fairly unimpressive. As for archeology, the small museum in Selcuk had far more impact and nothing in the ethnology museum (traditional costumes, furniture, etc.), was particularly interesting. In fact, for me, the only things of interest were some pillars in the garden of the archeology museum that had Hebrew carved on them. Unfortunately, when I asked where they were from, what they meant, and how old they were, I just got blank stares from the caretakers. They were in the museum, so they were important, and that is all they knew.
After the museums we returned to the bazaar one last time where, lo and behold, Mustafa found us yet again. He didn't try to sell us anything this time, but rather invited us to join him for a beer at one of the small cafes hidden inside the bazaar. Mustafa, we learned, is a Kurd and this was the first time we got "the other side" of the story. Every other Turk we talked to about the Kurdish uprising generally told us, "Yes, it was bad for them, but now they can vote, and they can speak their own language (which was previously prohibited), and they have their own newspapers and tv stations, so what are they complaining about?" Mustafa, on the other hand, went to the heart of the matter. "Yes, I can rent a flat, but I can't get a job to pay for it." Besides politics, we also talked about education (Mustafa has no formal education but speaks at least four languages and is quite intelligent), travel, religion, etc. All in all, a good three hours.
From the bazaar is was back to the hotel to pack and grab a quick lunch at one of the outdoor cafes on the water. Then it was off to our second favorite haunt, the otogar, to catch a bus to Marmaris.

Sydney, Australia
The plane was late and I had difficulty finding a hotel, but eventually settled in.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 20, 1990 from Sydney, Australia

Calcutta, India
Flew to Calcutta. Tried to leave immediately for Varanesi or Kathmandu but too many problems buying ticket. horrible airport. decided to stay one night. took cab to Oberoi Grand, being rebuilt so not worth the money. Had 3 different rooms (1st noisy, second not as nice). city flooded, changed flight. got manicures, dancing show, sat in bar. Saw first cows.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 26, 1987 from Calcutta, India

Calcutta, India
Took cab to Mother Teresa's house and orphanage. but opted out of viewing home for destitute (which is what all of Calcutta seemed like). Drive past Victory Memorial and then to airport. Got all the way thought customs then flight canceled. They put us up in airport hotel (2 rooms) -- lousy -- but met interesting Indian couple.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 27, 1987 from Calcutta, India

Sydney, Australia
Took a nice, meandering walk from my hotel to the Circular Quay where the ferries leave from. Bought a ticket for a 2-1/2 hour harbour tour -- what a beautiful place! The harbour has numerous bays and coves filled with sailboats and homes overlookign the water. Quite idyllic, and the views of the Opera House and bridge were magnificent.
After the cruise I met this truly nerdy British journalist and we had lunch at Doyle's on the Quay (not quite Doyle's on the Beach but they didn't take Amex all the same) and walked around The Rocks, the oldest part of Sydney, now restored with shops, pubs and the like. I would have liked to go to the zoo, but I couldn't shake this guy long enough.
Eventually, after a lengthy "tea" we separated and I went up to the Sydney Tower for a wonderful night time view of the city, and then took the monorail to Darling Harbour for dinner at the large but quite nice shopping center.
I then crossed back towards the city, stopping at the Aquarium -- the best I've ever seen. The exhibits were great and there are two tanks where you actually walk in tubes so you are right next to the fish. Some are even resting on top of the tube so you can see the undersides of, for example, Manta rays.
After the Aquarium I went back to the Rocks for an evening stroll before returning to my hotel.
written by  shoshtrvls on April 21, 1990 from Sydney, Australia

Marmaris, Turkey
Five hours of traveling again, but the scenery was much better . . . first rather agrarian, with the now-familiar donkey carts and millet women, then mountainous with pine trees and beautiful pink flowers which filled the gorges as though they were rivers.
It was all a sham, however, as Marmaris was the pits. The Tijuana of Turkey, no question about it. The first hotel we tried seemed deserted, so we opted for something a bit more upscale. This didn't last long, however, as no sooner had I ducked into the shower when, apparently, fire broke out in a room three doors away. How did we know this? Not because any smoke alarm went off; not because any fire alarm sounded; not because anyone knocked on our door. No, while I was in the shower, guests at the hotel next door rushed onto their patios yelling and screaming. It took Mark a while to figure out what they were saying, but he eventually got the message and got me out of the shower. We grabbed some of our stuff (hey, I was not going to leave that rug behind[g>) and headed into the hallway where hotel staff members were running our way with fire extinguishers. We could smell the smoke and thus looked in earnest for the fire exits but could find none. Meanwhile, the staff completely ignored the actual guests . . . no one knocked on doors or pointed out the exits. Mark and I headed toward the elevators (the only exit we knew), knocking on doors as we went along, as did an Israeli couple staying in the room next door. We were surprised to find that they were still working--aren't they supposed to shut off so you don't get trapped? In any event, seeing no other way down, we took one. In the lobby, everything seemed normal, and when we asked for our money back, the staff was surprised. "Why? The fire will be put out soon." Sure . . . so it could smolder overnight and begin afresh, with no fire protection in the hotel at all? Not for me. And although the fire was put out within a half-hour, when we returned to our room to get the rest of our belongings, it was clear that the fire was a tad more serious than they let on . . . not only was everything smoke-filled, but you could see the black soot on the walls near the room that was ablaze.
At this point, rather desperate and tired, we cabbed it to a "resort" somewhat further up the coast, thinking that it had to be a decent place. Well, not quite. The room was small and dingy, the price exorbitant; what we got for our $2.00 in Yusufeli was far superior. In any event, after showings and eating the dinner which was included in the room rate, we walked down the boardwalk back into the main section of Marmaris. As I said, it was like being in Tijuana . . . loud music, touts that wouldn't leave you alone, boat trip salesmen that followed you, ugh! The truly sad thing, however, is that most people who come to Marmaris do it as a day or two trip from Rhodes because it is only a 45 minute hydrofoil ride. I shudder to think that Marmaris is their only impression of Turkey . . .
written by  shoshtrvls on June 14, 1996 from Marmaris, Turkey

Not much to write ... took a walk down to Elizabeth Bay, hung out, flew home.

Kathmandu, Nepal
Finally flew to Kathmandu, checked into Potala Guest House. Walked Durbar Square. Looked at other guest houses. Had a coke at a restaurant overlooking Kathmandu Guest House. Did laundry. Ate lunch at Il Cimbeli pizza and dinner at Tibet's Kitchen.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 28, 1987 from Kathmandu, Nepal

Dakshinkali, Nepal
Changed hotels to Tibet Guest House and took morning tour to see animal sacrifices at Dakshinkali, then to monastery and gorge (and another temple with sacrifices) then got off bus to follow line of women in red waiting to go into temple to pray and bathe for Teej Festival. Very hot. Met Don Gittleson on tour -- American living in Honduras.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 29, 1987 from Dakshinkali, Nepal

Marmaris, Turkey
This was a leisure day. Mark and I took advantage of what we were paying for at our resort . . . a pool with a beautiful view, a clean beach, and men in white shorts and tee-shirts catering to our every need for towels, drinks, food, etc. I finished my third book of the trip and began another. Even got some "color" in my skin. But by 3 p.m. it was clearly time to say good-bye to Marmaris so we headed to the ferry dock to catch the hydrofoil to our last destination, Rhodes.
There weren't many people waiting for the ferry, so it was easy to spot the three twenty-something USC students doing the "take a semester off and backpack through Europe" thing. And thus it finally happened--the inevitable "small world" meeting that is required for every overseas trip. After talking briefly, I discovered that one of these students was Cantor L.'s son! Who is Cantor L, you might ask. Well, he performed my confirmation and the bar mitzvahs of all four of my brothers. His son Adam seemed cool and the hydrofoil ride was made pleasant by the conversation.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 15, 1996 from Marmaris, Turkey

Kathmandu, Nepal
Lunch at KC's, then spent afternoon making Chitwan arrangements and looking at Don's purchases. Barb sick -- I had dinner at Pizzamaya. (goats, carry on heads, small Teej groups).
written by  shoshtrvls on August 29, 1987 from Kathmandu, Nepal

Bharatpur, Nepal
Drove to Chitwan National Park with Suzanne, older woman from Belgium. Saw monkey on way. Great for French. Long drive (rained) then by oz cart, but very scenic, stayed at Jungle Safari Camp. That afternoon, walked through Tharu village -- headdresses like Yao, food like French (escargot and frog legs). watched a man make fish net.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 30, 1987 from Bharatpur, Nepal

Rodos, Greece
We arrived in Rhodes at about 6:30. If you've never been there before, it is impressive. The old city is surrounded by massive fortifications and sailing into the Harbor through the two pillars where the Colossus once stood is really a sight to see. When we arrived, we realized that not only did we not have any place to stay, we also didn't have a guidebook for Greece or any clue as to where to look for decent lodgings. Fortunately, as luck would have it, two Australian women who were heading out on a ferry for Crete told us about a wonderful little pension about five minutes walk from the old city.
After settling into the pension, we walked about a block to a small neighborhood restaurant recommended by the pension owner, a wonderful woman, and had a great meal -- my first real tzatziki in three years. I love tzatziki, and could live on it if given a chance. Then it was a stroll through the old city of Rhodes window shopping . . . a tourist destination to be sure, but somehow less aggressive and offensive than most. In fact, it reminded me somewhat of the old part of Santa Fe . . . many, many shops and cafes that somehow didn't ruin the experience.
written by  shoshtrvls on June 15, 1996 from Rodos, Greece

Bharatpur, Nepal
Early morning went on elephant safari thought jungle. Saw only rhinos (7) and possibly a small monkey, but sense jungle was interesting in itself. Then breakfast and very short canoe ride -- saw 2 crocodiles -- and on a short walk saw 3 more rhinos. Walked back with Canadian named Bob (guide, whose name I can't remember, was upset I didn't take Ox cart) and had drink with him and an English girl named Margaret Allen at their place -- the Holiday Inn. We then had lunch and a nap during which 5 more people arrived and I played Agatha Christie, correctly identifying the OB/GYN (from Walnut Creek) and his blond wife. We then took our "jungle walk" - watched rhino from raised blind and stalked spotted deer. A dutch tour group arrived and we all had dinner.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 31, 1987 from Bharatpur, Nepal

Bharatpur, Nepal
AM birdwatching with the doctor and his wife, and visit to musuem. Some interesting animal facts. Then drove to Pokhara, stopping for picnic lunch along the way.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 1, 1987 from Bharatpur, Nepal

Pokhara, Nepal
Checked into the Kantipur Guest House and made trekking arrangements and flight back to Kathmandu. Walked to airport and New Crystal Hotel. Began to pour. Ate at Guest House. Met Dean and Oliver, fellow trekkers. Then to German Bakery -- Dean was there and we talked about traveling, China, etc.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 1, 1987 from Pokhara, Nepal

Pokhara, Nepal
Leave for trek with our guide, Chandra. Long flat walk through populated area along river (Brahman People) -- lunch at Eden Lodge in Suikhet. Then long steep climb (but well-marked path unlike Thailand) to Dhampus Pass -- top of mountain. Stayed at Sunrise Lodge. Dean and Oliver were there. Had dinner.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 2, 1987 from Pokhara, Nepal

Rodos, Greece
My last full day of vacation. Originally, it was to be spent on the ferry to Athens, but rough seas forced the cancellation of the hydrofoil and thus I was lucky to have gotten one of the last seats on tomorrow's early morning plane flight to Athens which arrives there just in time to get me on my plane home to the states. So, taking advantage of the extra day, Mark and I rented a little Suzuki Samurai and went exploring. Our first stop was Faliraki beach -- lots of people, warm water, and lots of activities ("no Mark, I see no reason to do that crane bungee jumping; remember, I jumped out of a real plane"). Despite the crowds, it certainly was not a bad spot. We stayed for 2-1/2 hours baking in the sun and splashing in the non-surf (nary a wavelet in sight) before heading on to Cape Vagia for lunch at a tiny little beach, fairly unspoiled and uncrowded. Then it was down the coast past Lindos where the tourists thinned out and goats were the far more prevalent mammals. We finally selected a nearly deserted beach in a secluded cove near the town of Lardos for the last hour or two of sunning.
On the way back to Rhodes proper we made one final sight-seeing stop, to Tsampika Monastery. The monastery (a small one to be sure) is set atop what appears to be the highest promontory on the coast, visible from the road as only a tiny white dot at the top of a craggy peak. To get there one must first drive a few kilometers of a steep, narrow switchback road which ends roughly 1 km below the monastery. The last little bit on foot, while a short distance, is a good little hike up -- seriously *up*, the paved "trail" even having handrails to keep one from being blown off the mountain and onto the rocks below. And the reward for all of this? Not the monastery actually but the view . . . an incredible panorama of the entire east coast of the island from Lindos to Ladiko.
Our final dinner is at a small taverna near our pension, recommended by the pension owners, with excellent fish and even reasonable prices. We then made good use of the Suzuki, driving around the walls of the old city at night, beautifully lit with flickering lanterns (and some help from modern spotlights strategically placed).
written by  shoshtrvls on June 17, 1996 from Rodos, Greece

Rodos, Greece
This morning began with yet another walk into the old city of Rhodes, touring it more carefully this time. First we visited the museum within the city's castle. And, frankly, it is the castle itself, with its massive stone rooms and high vaulted ceilings, which is more impressive than the actual collection, which consists of the by now all-too-familiar pieces of pottery, roman coins, statuary, mosaics and the like. We then walked along the Harbor and through a bit of the new city (pretty much a city like any other) before catching a bus to the town of Lindos, 1-1/2 hours away
written by  shoshtrvls on June 16, 1996 from Rodos, Greece

Pokhara, Nepal
Woke up sick. Climbed to Kaare for lunch -- leeches everywhere so couldn't stop. Path not as well marked. Our porter (Gahli) waited for me.. Meadow at top. Took shortcut to Kaare. Then easy walk to Nagadanda for eve. Beautiful view o the Himalayas, especially the next morning.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 3, 1987 from Pokhara, Nepal

Lindos, Greece
Well, what can one say about Lindos except that what we had been told was dead-on accurate. Yes, Lindos is a picturesque little town above a crystal clear blue bay, white-washed buildings tumbling down a mountainside dominated by a huge fortress. And yes, more tourists squeezed into narrow cobblestone streets than are usually found at Disneyworld on a Sunday in June. And the shops (pretty much the only things in Lindos besides the restaurants) lacked any sense of "authenticity" -- tee shirt shops, souvenir shops with ashtrays emblazoned with the words "Lindos, Rhodos" on them, "handicrafts" made in Taiwan. Welcome to tourism run amok. As a result, Mark and I stayed just long enough to (1) run into our USC boys, seriously hung over from a night of raucous drinking; (2) climb to the fortress, and (3) spend exorbitant amounts of money on a late, mediocre lunch. But hey, the view from the restaurant was great, watching the sailboats from the city of Rhodes make their way in and out of the bay. Now, if we just could have gotten those obnoxious Texans at the next table to talk a little softer . . .
written by  shoshtrvls on June 16, 1996 from Lindos, Greece

Our return from Lindos was somewhat delayed by having gotten on the wrong bus to go home (and you should see the way people cram into the buses in the afternoon, like a Tokyo subway at quitting time), but eventually we found our way back to the city of Rhodes for yet another evening of strolling and shopping (my final purchase, a beautiful hand-painted gold-lief icon, perfect for a good Jewish girl like myself) and dining before returning to our little hotel

Walked to Sanaogkot (?) for lunch. Walked down. Almost like Lombard Street -- very crooked. Then to Pokhara. Diner at Mona Lia. Saw cute guy, decided we wanted to meet him. Had brownie at hotel. All in all, trek not nearly as interesting as Thailand. Good views but people not as interesting.

Not one to waste a minute of vacation, the last night in Rhodes night didn't really start until midnight when we met the pension owners and their two daughters at a small club for three hours of traditional Greek music and dancing -- not a tourist in sight, this was "the real thing." The music was wonderful, played on traditional instruments such as the lute, and as the wine and liquor flowed so did the clientele's inhibitions (if they ever had any). Women got up and really belly-danced, sans the costumes (like I said, this was not a show for tourists) -- which is incredibly difficult to do if you've ever tried it (which I can now say that I have). Men did the hands-on-shoulders, stomping and kicking, knee and heel slapping numbers, and everyone joined in the Israeli-like line dancing. (The pension owners were surprised at how quickly I picked up the steps; I refrained from telling them that the hora is the hora is the hora, whether it be at a bar mitzvah or a Greek nightclub). We didn't crawl out of there until almost 4 a.m., a mere two hours before I had to be at the airport. So, rather than even attempting to sleep, I spent my last hours of vacation repacking my luggage, filling out the details in my (hand written) journal, and desperately wishing that all of life were a vacation . . .

Kathmandu, Nepal
Fly to Kathmandu. Met guy from NY -- Patrick. shared cab to guest house. got flat tire. Had breakfast with Patrick at his guest house (right next door). Ran errand.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 5, 1987 from Kathmandu, Nepal

Bhaktapur, Nepal
Went to Baktipur with Patrick, discussing jurisdiction on the bus, where we ran into Margaret. Went to museum full of Hindu art.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 5, 1987 from Bhaktapur, Nepal

Took bus back to Kathmandu (and got ANOTHER flat tire). Dinner at KC's and then beer at Patrick's.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 5, 1987 from Kathmandu, Nepal

With Patrick. Saw the open Buddha for Indrajata. Walked around Kathmandu, then planted ourselves on stupa in Durbar Square to watch paraded Kumari - Indrajata Festival. Waited a long time. Very slow. First demon, then nothing. Then band, then nothing, etc. Men were separated from women -- many people. Police protected the Westerners. Never thought we'd make our plane. All on stupa, interesting clothing, etc. Finally diplomats arrived and King's brother (King out of town). Finally chariots came out -- couldn't get them around the corners! Cleared out quickly. Said good-bye to Patrick (and Margaret, who we also saw). Taxi driver gave us lesson in Nepalese politics.
Flew to Delhi -- Hans Plaza hotel.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 6, 1987 from Kathmandu, Nepal

Walked around Delhi, got shoe shine, made travel arrangements. To underground. Palika Bazaar and Cannaught Place. Lunch at Narula's and then to the Red Fort. Rivers through fort, inlay, and drove by Mosque. Then room service.

Agra, India
Bus tour to Agra. Very hot. Taj mahal -- inlay (pieta dor) with stones, gems, marble factory, Agra fort and mosque. Return to Delhi.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 8, 1987 from Agra, India

New Dehli, India overnight.

Srinagar, India
Fly to Srinigar. Houseboat on Nagin Lake, New Zenith, Shikara around lake then tour of old city. Two very interesting mosques and carpet factory.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 9, 1987 from Srinagar, India

Sonamarg, India
Drive to Sonamarg. Ponies to Glacier. Very pretty. Met couple from Santa Barbara.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 10, 1987 from Sonamarg, India

Srinagar, India
At 5 a.m., took a shikara to the floating market, went carpet shopping, then flight to Delhi.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 11, 1987 from Srinagar, India

Dinner and Nirula's and overnight only.

Just a change of planes on our way to Spain.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 12, 1987 from London, United Kingdom

Flew to Madrid and met mom at the airport. We got the car and drove to the hotel (Gran Hotel Victoria) at Plaza Angel. Walked around Madrid -- grand Via, Puerto del Sol, Plaza Santa Ana. Dinner at Pazo de Monterrey.

Waled to the Prado and the Picasso Annex to see the Guernica. Lunch at THE Ritz hotel, took a siesta (love those siestas), hung at a cafe in the Plaza Santa Ana and ate dinner at a tapas bar near the hotel.

Toledo, Spain
Drove to Toledo and visited the Alcazar, Museo de Santa Cruz, a long lunch, found a wonderful antique store -- AVIS ALQUILE UNCOCHE -- where mom bought a menorah and we heard all about Spanish Jewish history and the judaica collection. The place had a mikvah in the basement. (Note -- writing this more than 30 years later, when I took Ellery to Spain in 2001, I again found this store and purchased another piece of judaica from the same collection -- 25 years later!).
We went to the Synagogue de Santa Maria la Blanca, Santa Tome Cathedral (where the El Greco painting "Burial de Conte Orgaz" is), the Santa Iglesia Cathedral Primada.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 14, 1987 from Toledo, Spain

Cuenca, Spain
Drove to Cuenca and saw the hanging houses from a footbridge. Dinner there and back to Madrid.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 14, 1987 from Cuenca, Spain

Avila de los Caballeros, Spain
First to Avila to see the cathedral and the walls, lunch at Meson el Rastro.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 15, 1987 from Avila de los Caballeros, Spain

Segovia, Spain
After Avila, we drove to Segovia and checked into the Parador, a new one, and relaxed at the pool. Then we went into town and saw the aquaduct, cathedral, alcazar from Camelot (a la Price Charming) and had dinner at Plaza de Franco.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 15, 1987 from Segovia, Spain

Soria, Spain
Just a stop on the way to Barcelona, but worthy of a mention because it's a shit little town where we had a horrible lunch.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 16, 1987 from Soria, Spain

Barcelona, Spain
We arrived in Barcelona and are staying at th Hotel Gran Via. Dinner was pizza at Il Villagio.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 16, 1987 from Barcelona, Spain

Barcelona, Spain
We visited Montjuich, the Miro Foundation, Museo de Arte Cataluna, took a cab (great driver) to the Fort, along the port to Parque Zoologique, walked up Las Ramblas, Bario Botic, bookstalls, to Restaurant Lluria for dinner.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 17, 1987 from Barcelona, Spain

Barcelona, Spain
Today was the Picasso Museum, a walk through the gothic quarter and Cathedral, to Plaza de Catalunya, bought a briefcase (before the Plaza), taxi to Barcelonetta for lunch, to Bernice's hotel, walk down Pg de Garcia and past the Gaudi building. Diner at Il Villagio again.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 18, 1987 from Barcelona, Spain

Valencia, Spain
Drove from Barcelona to Valencia where we stopped for Paella, which was made and served by a woman who asked if Americans are like in the movies.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 19, 1987 from Valencia, Spain

Alicante, Spain
From Valencia we drove to Alicante, checked into the Hotel Palas, walked around the night market and had dinner.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 19, 1987 from Alicante, Spain

Alicante, Spain
Visited the modern museum and a collector's market -- stamps, movie cards, etc.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 20, 1987 from Alicante, Spain

Day 51 (cont)
Torremolinos, Spain
checked into our hotel in Torremolinos -- the Parador del Golf. Ugh.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 20, 1987 from Torremolinos, Spain

Torremolinos, Spain
Changed to the Hotel Melia and vegitated on the beach. Dinner at a pizza restaurant (why do we keep doing this?) and walked through the tacky town.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 21, 1987 from Torremolinos, Spain

Marbella, Spain
Went to the beach in the morning, and drove to Marbella. Walked around. I bought a cute little green dress that I'm amazed I can wear. Dinner back at the hotel.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 22, 1987 from Marbella, Spain

Sevilla, Spain
We took a tour to Sevilla -- Alcazar, Barrio de Santa Cruz (the Jewish quarter), lunch at a hotel, saw doves in the Parque de Maria Luisa, took a Caleche ride and saw the Plaza de Espana.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 23, 1987 from Sevilla, Spain

Malaga, Spain
Dinner in Malaga with Bernice.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 23, 1987 from Malaga, Spain

Granada, Spain
Went to Granada, saw the Alhambra (lunch at P?) and again back to Malaga for dinner with Bernice.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 24, 1987 from Granada, Spain

We returned to Madrid, ate lunch at the Parador. At dinner at a tapas bar, we ran into Kim Cook.

New York, United States
Flight home.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 26, 1987 from New York, United States

Los Angeles, United States
Flight home. Lost rug forever. :-(
written by  shoshtrvls on September 26, 1987 from Los Angeles, United States

Chicken Buses