garisti

Tokyo
Tokyo, Japan
* Take a boat ride on the Sumida River from Asakusa.
* Enjoy a soak in a local "sento" or public bath. Or one of the onsen theme parks such as LaQua at the Tokyo Dome (Taito) or Oedo Onsen Monogatari in Odaiba.
* Go to an amusement park such as Tokyo Disneyland or the more Japanese Sanrio Puroland (in Tama), home to more Hello Kittys than you can imagine.
* Check out the hip and young crowd at Harajuku's Takeshita-Dori (Takeshita Street) or the more grown up Omotesando.
* In the spring, take a boatride in Kichijoji's lovely Inogashira Park, and afterwards visit the Ghibli Studios Museum (well-known for their amazing movies, like Spirited Away, and Princess Mononoke), but you will need to buy tickets for these in advance at a Lawson convenience store.
* Sing karaoke at any karaoke box in town!
* Lose yourself in the neon jungle outside major train stations in the evenings. Shibuya and east Shinjuku at night can make Times Square or Piccadilly Circus look positively rural in comparison - it has to be seen to be believed.
* Take the Yurikamome elevated train across the bay bridge from Shimbashi station to the bayside Odaiba district, and go on the giant ferris wheel - the largest in the world until recently.
* Take a stroll through the Imperial Palace's East Gardens (open to the public daily at 9am, except Fridays and Mondays).
* Have a picnic in a park during the cherry blossom (Sakura). Unfortunately Sakura only lasts for about a week.
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Understand
The following tour starts and ends at Tokyo Station, contrasting the Tokyo of old with the Tokyo of new. In this tour you will visit the following major destinations:
* Tokyo Station
* Imperial Palace and the East Gardens in Chiyoda
* Sensōji Temple in Asakusa
* Odaiba
* Shinjuku
[edit] Prepare
You will need to get a Suica or PASMO fare card worth at least ¥3000 to be safe. Either type of fare card can be obtained at the nearest train station.
If you have a Japan Rail Pass when entering the country, you can just walk through the barriers when entering and exiting the JR system and flash your pass to the guard. However, you should purchase a ¥3000 fare card in any case.
[edit] Go
You can do this itinerary on any day except Mondays, Fridays, and major holidays, when the East Gardens are closed.
[edit] Begin: Tokyo Station (東京)
Time yourself to arrive at Tokyo station at around 10:00 AM. If you wish, arrive earlier to experience the end of the morning rush hour. Exit towards the Marunouchi North Exit (丸の内北口), where if you are lucky, you will see one of the many special exhibitions that are constantly put on display.
Exit the station to your left and walk until you are at the center of the exterior of the station. Here is where the first stark contrast between old and new can be seen: On one side you can see brand new skyscrapers... and on the other side, the red brick facade of Tokyo Station.
[edit] Imperial Palace
Kitanomaru Park, Imperial Palace
You will see a very wide street that proceeds straight out from the center of the station, this is Miyuki Dōri. Proceed walking down the right side of the road until you reach the moat, Wadakura-bori. After walking through what is certain to be a lot of vehicular traffic, it is a slow transition into serenity as you pass the moat and come across the Wadakura Fountain Park.
After spending a few moments at the fountains, continue across the final road, Uchibori Dōri, to the Imperial Palace Plaza. Walk around the edge of the plaza, and you will soon find everything rather calm, as the transfer into old Tokyo has been made. Standing at one of the large gravel intersections, look around and see the contrast once more.
Backtrack yourself to where you entered, and turn left, walking north on Uchibori Dōri until you reach the Ōte-mon Gate (大手門), which leads you into the public East Gardens.
Browse through the main path of the gardens, picking up a beverage from a vending machine, purchasing a gift, and if lucky, hearing the screams of the Imperial Guard practicing kendo close by.
Continuing on the main path, you will reach a flower garden, where you should be able to see a large sign pointing you to Hirakawa-mon Gate (平川門), the north exit of the East Gardens.
With your jaunt through the Imperial Palace complete, turn right as you exit Hirakawa-mon and walk a short distance to the entrance to Takebashi station (竹橋) and, using your Suica or PASMO card, take the Tokyo Metro Tōzai Line one stop to Ōtemachi station (大手町).
Follow the underground arcade towards the JR Lines until you reach Tokyo Station. Flash your Japan Rail Pass, or if you don't have a rail pass, use your Suica or PASMO card. This is a nice opportunity for a quick snack at one of the many food stands before continuing on.
[edit] Sensōji Temple
Kaminarimon, Sensōji
A quick entry to Modern Tokyo can be found as you walk up to Platform 4 for the northbound Yamanote Line. Here, board one of the green-colored trains that arrive every 2 to 3 minutes.
The Yamanote Line is the most prominent rail line in Tokyo, with quick service, and a loop that runs around the entire city. All announcements on the Yamanote line are in both Japanese and English, with computer monitors that show information such as connections at the next stop.
Take the Yamanote Line to Ueno (上野), then walk out and down the stairs, where you'll whip out your Suica or PASMO card once again and board the Tokyo Metro Ginza Line, taking it to the terminal stop of Asakusa (浅草).
Proceed out of Exit 1, 2 or 3, and look for the large Kaminari-mon Gate (雷門), which is your signal to the road that leads to Sensōji Temple. This road, which is Nakamise Dōri, includes a covered arcade of specialty stores and food shops. Pass these initially, and the usual crowds that form around them, and come back to visit a few upon returning.
When you get back to the area around Asakusa station, don't forget to look across the river for a look at the Golden Turd, also known as the Asahi Beer brewing factory.
[edit] Odaiba
Fuji TV, Odaiba
Now after a totally classic experience, it's time to head in a completely opposite direction. Enter Asakusa station and follow the signs for the Toei Asakusa Line, which is another subway line. Take any train to Shimbashi (新橋) and then transfer upstairs to the Yurikamome (ゆりかもめ) light rail line. (You'll need your Suica or PASMO card for both.)
After skimming past some skyscrapers, you will see the Rainbow Bridge on your left side. Then the train makes a 270-degree right turn and enters the bridge for the crossing into Odaiba, the man-made island that boasts a completely new scene in Tokyo.
One of the main attractions here is the Fuji TV Building. But one of the more interesting ones is the Toyota pavilion, which can be reached by getting off the Yurikamome at the first stop, Odaiba Kaihin-Koen (お台場海浜公園), then taking a nice walk on the bridge across the expressway. Eventually you will come upon the complex, a part of Palette Town, which includes Toyota, as well as a Lawson convenience store. Inside the Toyota pavilion you can test-drive new Toyota vehicles if you have an international drivers license, or simply push a button and have automated elevators and conveyors present a vehicle to you. The other end of the Yurikamome is on the other side of the complex; board it here with your Suica or PASMO card and take it a few stops to Daiba (台場) to access the Fuji building.
The Tokyo Teleport station (東京テレポート) of the Tokyo Waterfront Railway, aka Rinkai Line, is located within the vicinity of the Fuji building.
[edit] Traveling to Shinjuku
If you've progressed at a steady pace, it should be close to dusk by the time you enter the Rinkai Line. The last stop on the tour is a place which shines with nightlife, Shinjuku.
In the past, getting from Tokyo Teleport to Shinjuku was a bit tricky depending on whether or not you had a Japan Rail Pass. Although Rinkai Line trains continue directly to Shinjuku station, you travel over two separate railways (Tokyo Teleport to Osaki on the Tokyo Waterfront Railway, then Osaki to Shinjuku on the JR Saikyo Line).
Now, it's very easy and straightforward: If you have a Japan Rail Pass, DO NOT USE IT. Use your Suica or PASMO card for this leg of the trip. The Japan Rail Pass is not accpted for travel over the Tokyo Waterfront Railway, however if you use your fare card there will be no problems.
Have a bite to eat in the station, if you want, or see what kind of eateries you can find, cheap or expensive, in Shinjuku itself!
[edit] Shinjuku
Head to the east exit of Shinjuku station to begin in front of the giant television monitor at Studio ALTA, one of Tokyo's major meeting places. If you are courageous, follow the train tracks north and attempt to plunge into Tokyo's red-light district of Kabukichō (歌舞伎町)... you'll see bright signs for it just to the right of the Shinjuku Prince Hotel.
If you've had enough, walk south to Kōshu Kaidō (甲州街道) to enjoy the panoramic views of the rest of Shinjuku at ground level overlooking the train tracks, including the large Takashiyama Times Square building.
[edit] Returning
Saikyo Line platform at Shinjuku during the evening rush
Shinjuku is the country's busiest train hub, but don't stray in Shinjuku too late, as, like the rest of the country, train services stop at midnight!
To return to Tokyo Station, you can take the JR Chuo Line across, or do the same using the Marunouchi subway line.
If you are returning elsewhere, you can take the JR Yamanote Line, or several subway lines, including the Marunouchi, Toei Shinjuku or Toei Oedo line.
[edit] Straying
If you want to stray a bit from the route, take a moment to inhale the world's largest pedestrian crossing, which can be found at Shibuya station.
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The following is a hectic whirlwind tour of Tokyo, which will take you to:
* a sushi breakfast (Tsukiji)
* one of Tokyo's best museums (Ryogoku)
* a serene shrine (Harajuku)
* shopping hysteria (Shibuya)
* the Tokyo of the future and the bath of the past (Odaiba)
* Tokyo's best-known nightlife district (Roppongi)
While it is technically possible to complete in one day, you're going to be pretty tired and approximately ¥10000 poorer by the end, so splitting this up into bite-sized portions is advisable. Lots of detours from the main itinerary are provided, pick and choose the ones that sound interesting.
Due to its length and complexity this is not really suitable as a layover tour. If you have less than half a day to spare, you're better off sticking to the Ueno or Asakusa districts, both within easy reach of Narita airport — see Classic Tokyo, Modern Tokyo for a sample route through Asakusa.
There's a lot of travel involved, so a ¥2000 Suica or PASMO fare card (available at any train station) will let you zip around the city easily without needing to queue up for tickets at every stop.
The tour can be done on any day of the week except Monday, when the Edo-Tokyo Museum is closed. On Sundays you'll miss the Tsukiji tuna auction, but the freak show in Harajuku may compensate.
[edit] Morning
Daiwa Sushi, Tsukiji
In the Edo-Tokyo Museum, Ryogoku
* Start off your day bright and early with a visit to the Tsukiji Fish Market. Tourists are no longer allowed into the tuna auction without special permission. If you want to get there early enough to see the tuna being offloaded from the boats, you'll have to cab it before 3 AM (note: no auction on Sundays!), but if you just want to see the market in action it's much cheaper to just take the first train (underground) in the morning a little past 5 AM to Oedo Line Tsukiji-seijo, or Hibiya Line Tsukiji, but this is a little further away. Be sure to eat a sushi breakfast at Sushidai or Daiwa Sushi for around ¥3000. If you just want to eat, you can show up a little later, but beware: queues can be long on weekends.
o Tsukiji Honganji (築地本願寺), near the Hibiya line station, is a rather atypical Japanese temple built not from wood, but from heavy stone and concrete. The interior, full of wafting incense and resplendent with gold, is still worth a quick peek.
* Hop on the Toei Oedo Line to Ryogoku and the Edo-Tokyo Museum (exit A3/A4), one of the best in Tokyo, which will give you an excellent grounding in the history of this city from the Edo era of samurais and geishas to modern-day postwar Tokyo. Admission ¥600, open from 9 AM, closed Mondays.
o Right next door to the museum is the Kokugikan, Japan's most famous sumo wrestling arena, where tournaments are held three times yearly. A visit to one of the sumo stables nearby can be interesting, but must be arranged well in advance.
[edit] Afternoon
Meiji Jingu, Harajuku
Fashion victim in Yoyogi Park
* Board the JR Sobu Line at Ryogoku.
o If you're feeling geeky, you can stop just a few stations away at Akihabara and plunge into one of the world's largest electronics retail districts. You can also find oodles of software, games, comics and various mixes of the two here. Remember that most everything here is aimed squarely at the Japanese market, so voltage (for hardware) and operating systems (for software) may not be compatible, and the language in the manuals certainly won't be — check out the export retailers like Laox for international versions.
* Ride all the way through central Tokyo to Yoyogi, then change to the Yamanote Line and ride one stop south to Harajuku. Immediately to the west side of the station is the majestic Meiji Shrine, one of the largest and most serene in Tokyo, located down a wide foot path into a forest of tall cedar trees. Once at the shrine entrance, rinse your hands and take a sip of cleansing water (Note: Do not drink the water. Take the dipper in your right hand and pour water over your left hand. Change hands and pour water over your right hand. Change hands again and pour water into your cupped left hand, transfer the water to your mouth, rinse and spit---yes, spit--out the water into the trough at the foot of the fountain. Again, rinse your left hand, rinse the dipper to clean it, then put the dipper back on the rack.), then enter the shrine. Here you can make a wish (remember to throw a coin (a five-yen coin is preferable) into the money box as an offering. Also, notice the other worshippers bow and clap twice to call the gods) or buy a votive plaque (ema) to write a wish on. If it's a weekend outside winter, the odds of catching an elaborate Japanese wedding ceremony here are pretty good.
o On Sundays only, there's a ceremony of a different sort going on outside the shrine entrance and in nearby Yoyogi Park when the unofficial Tokyo freak show is held: here you can catch punks, gothic lolitas, bloodspattered surgeons and other bizarre subcultures showing off to each other and the gaggle of photographers.
* Backtrack to Harajuku station and cross to the east side, where an entirely different vista will present itself: right across the road is Takeshita-dori, the nexus of Tokyo's teens, home to the world's heaviest concentration of Hello Kitty goods and other forms of extreme cuteness. Kawaiiiiiiiiii!
* Walk through the narrow winding street and take a right at its end onto Meiji-dori. The next intersection is Omote-sando, a tree-lined boulevard occasionally compared to Paris' Champs-Elysées, with trendy boutiques and snooty cafes priced almost as high as the original.
o Feeling a little peckish? Stop at Tenya on Meiji-dori (on the right side before the Omote-sando crossing) for a ¥500 bowl of tempura and rice (天丼 tendon).
* Cross Omote-sando and keep walking past the Condomania shop. A few blocks down take a right to cross under the Yamanote train tracks, and after this you are now officially in Shibuya, Japan's capital of cool. The shops here change at a blistering pace nearly as fickle as Tokyo teen fashion, but a few long-termers along the road include the OIOI (say "marooee") fashion mall and the seven-story Tower Records music and book store, where foreign (read: English) books can be found on the seventh floor.
* At the end of the road you will find Shibuya station and Hachiko, the busiest pedestrian crossing in the world. If you want to explore Shibuya a little more, make a sharp right here to stroll down the pedestrian street Center-gai. Along the street one shop worth a stop is Tokyu Hands, a DIY department store that retails absolutely everything imaginable (and some things that aren't), and otaku certainly won't want to miss out on manga/anime superstore Mandarake.
[edit] Evening
Propaganda, Roppongi
* When night starts to fall, board the Metro Ginza line to Shinbashi and change to the Yurikamome line to the artificial island of Odaiba. This futuristic all-automated train-bus-monorail is an attraction in itself, especially the approach to Odaiba via a 270-degree loop that propels the train onto the Rainbow Bridge. There's lots of futuristic architecture here, including the spectacularly bizarre Fuji TV building, and even a copy of the Statue of Liberty by the seaside.
o If your quota of shopping still isn't full, detour from Odaiba-Kaihin-Koen station to the mindboggling Venus Fort, a recreation of Venice inside a shopping mall, complete with artificial sky and Italian mayors giving speeches from balconies.
* After all that sightseeing it's time to take a dip. Get off at the Telecom Center station and cross the parking lot to Oedo Onsen Monogatari, Tokyo's spiffiest spa complex done up to look like the good old Edo days. Get a locker key, pick a yukata bathrobe of your choice and change into it, then head out into the spa armed just with the key. There are restaurants, bars, souvenir shops and various Edo-era amusements, all of which can be paid with your key. Entry after 6 PM costs ¥1900.
* Re-energized, you can hop on the Yurikamome and ride back to Shiodome. Change here for the Toei Oedo line to Roppongi. If you haven't had dinner yet, take exit 4 and walk a few hundred meters to Roppongi Hills, where you will find countless eating and shopping options in superslick surroundings. Try the tonkatsu (deep-friend pork cutlet) at Katsukobo Wako (NB1F) or the curry udon at Konaya (NB2F).
* Wash down dinner with a beer or seven in one of Roppongi's innumerable watering holes. These change with bewildering rapidity, but Gas Panic and Lexington Queen have been around forever. For a more upmarket clubby experience, check out Space Lab Yellow, another reliably quirky standby, or Velfarre, which still claims to be Asia's largest disco.
* When morning comes, stagger onto the first Oedo line train to Tsukiji for a sushi breakfast, and start the tour again!
written by  garisti on June 13, 2007 from Tokyo, Japan
from the travel blog: Viaje por Asia

Preparacion
Nikko, Japan
Nikkō (日光) [1] is a small town to the north of Tokyo, in Tochigi prefecture.
Understand
Magnificent enough?
A famous Japanese saying proclaims Nikko wo minakereba "kekkō" to iu na. Most tourist literature translates this as "Don't say 'magnificent' until you've seen Nikko", but there's another dimension to this Japanese pun: it can also mean "See Nikko and say 'enough'."
The Nikko tourism board put their own spin on the famous saying: "Nikko Is Nippon."
The first temple in Nikko was founded more than 1,200 years ago along the shores of the Daiya River. However, in 1616, the dying Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu made it known that his final wish was for his successors to "Build a small shrine in Nikko and enshrine me as the God. I will be the guardian of peace keeping in Japan." As a result, Nikko became home of the mausoleums of the Tokugawa Shoguns, which are on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Unlike most Japanese temples and shrines, the buildings here are extremely gaudy and ornate, with multicolored carvings and plenty of gold leaf, and show heavy Chinese influence. Some sense of dignity is restored by a magnificent forest of over 13,000 cedar trees, covering the entire area.
However, for all of the grandeur the shoguns could muster, they're now over-shadowed in the eyes of many visitors by a trio of small wooden carvings on a stable wall: the famous three wise monkeys.
The fastest and most convenient way to access Nikko is on the private Tōbu Nikkō Line (東武日光線) [2] from Tokyo's Tobu-Asakusa station.
Tōbu Railway runs all-reserved limited express services, known as Tokkyū (特急) trains, to the area. These trains, which use Tobu's "SPACIA" railroad equipment, have comfortable, reclining seats, with vending machines available on most trains. One service, called Kegon (けごん) runs directly from Asakusa to Nikko in the morning, and back to Asakusa in the afternoon. There is one daily departure from Asakusa at 7:30 am, and depending on the season, there may be an additional departure at 9:30 am. The other service, Kinu (きぬ), departs from Asakusa more frequently, but branches off to Kinugawa so you will need to transfer at Shimo-Imaichi station (下今市) to a local shuttle train for the final 10-minute run to Nikko. This train is timed to meet the Kinu arrival. Both the Kegon run, and the Kinu run with transfer, take about 1 hour and 50 minutes.
In addition, Tōbu Railway offers two convenient passes for Nikko, which can be used only by visitors to Japan.
1. All Nikko Pass [3] allows unlimited buses and train access in the Nikko and Kinugawa area and includes some discounts for nearby attractions, but does not include entry to the shrines. Valid for 4 days, cost ¥4400. Recommended for visitors coming to see Nikko's lakes and falls.
1. World Heritage Pass [4] covers a round-trip to Nikko and Kinugawa and includes admission to the shrines. Valid for 2 days, cost ¥3600. Some discounts for Kinugawa Theme Park are also included.
See
View of Shoyoen, Rinnoji Temple
For the sights in the temple area, it's best to buy a combination ticket (社寺共通拝観券, ¥1,000) that covers Toshogu, Rinnoji and Futarasan, as separate admissions are ¥600 each. You can buy this at any of the three sites. Guides can be arranged (Tel. 0288-54-0641) for the three sites at ¥5500 for 1-20 people.
* Tōshōgū (東照宮). (8:00am-4:30pm Apr-Oct, to 3:30pm Nov-Mar) The burial place of dynasty founder Tokugawa Ieyasu and the most extravagant of the lot. Ieyasu was buried here immediately after his death, but the present complex was only built in 1634 on the order of his grandson Iemitsu. The shrine took 2 years to complete with the efforts of 15,000 workers.
o After two flights of steps you will reach the Sacred Stable, housing a white horse. The most famous symbol here is the carving of the three wise monkeys, who "hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil". They're part of a curious series of carvings about the life cycle of a monkey, from giddy childhood to fearful old age. Nearby, you can also find an interesting approximation of an elephant, carved by an artist who had clearly never seen one.
o Yakushi-dō Hall (薬師堂), the Hall of the Medicine Buddha, is known for a dragon painting on the ceiling. A monk is usually on hand to speak (Japanese only) and strike a special block whose sharp, piercing sound is said to be identical to the cry of a dragon — not quite the roar of English legend but an attention-getter all the same.
o Yomei-mon Gate (陽明門) is an incredibly ornate gate with over 400 carvings squeezed in.
o To the right of the main hall is the way to Ieyasu's tomb, entry to which costs an extra ¥520. Look out for another famous carving, this time of a sleeping cat (nemuri-neko). There are 200 stone steps, and steep ones at that; and then you finally reach the surprisingly simple gravesite itself.
* Taiyuin-byō (大猷院廟). (8:00am-4:30pm Apr-Oct, to 3:30pm Nov-Mar) After completing Toshogu, Iemitsu himself was buried here. Smaller in scale (but not by much), this is generally held to be artistically superior to its predecessor.
* Rinnō-ji Temple (輪王寺). (8:00am-4:30pm Apr-Oct, to 3:30pm Nov-Mar) [5] Known for its three large Buddha figures, the real reason to visit is the beautiful and peaceful Shōyō-en Garden (逍遥園). Note that the garden charges a separate ¥300 admission, which also gets you into the temple's treasure hall (宝物殿 Hōmotsuden).
* Futarasan Shrine (二荒山神社 Futarasan-jinja). (9:00am-4:30pm Apr-Oct, to 3:30pm Nov-Mar) [6] Directly to the west of Toshogu and the oldest structure in Nikko (1617). The shrine is dedicated to the spirits of Nikko's three holy mountains Mt. Nantai, Mt. Nyoho and Mt. Taro.
There are a few other sites near the temple area:
* Shinkyō (神橋). This much-photographed red bridge separates the shrines from the town of Nikko. In feudal times, only the shogun was permitted to cross the bridge, and even today it's barred from pedestrian traffic — although there's a 4-lane highway rumbling right past. You can get a nice view from the sidewalk, but to set foot on the bridge and look down into the gorge below, you'll have to buy a ¥350 ticket from the booth nearby.
* Kanmangafuchi Abyss. A long series of jizo protector statues on the side of a hill, some adorned with hats and bibs, some crumbling with age, with a river, small waterfalls and rapids below. Legend says that the statues change places from time to time, and a visitor will never see them in the same order twice. It can be tricky to find - at Shinkyō, instead of heading up the steps to the temple area, follow the road around to the west (to the left, if you crossed over the bridge) and walk a short distance - look for signs along the way.
* Tamozawa Imperial Villa Memorial Park (Tel. 0288-53-6767; open 9:00am-4:30pm, closed Tuesdays). Built for the Emperor Taisho in 1899, the former imperial villa also served as a hide-out for Hirohito during World War II. It's next to the Botanical Garden.
* Nikko Botanical Garden (Tel. 0288-54-0206; open 9:00am-4:30pm, closed Mondays and Dec.-mid-April). Has plenty of the local flora and gardens that were said to be favorites of the Emperor Taisho. It's now an adjunct to Tokyo University.
Budget
There are several campsites in Nikko, although only Narusawa (0288-54-3374) and Ogurayama (0288-54-2478) are open year-round; several others run from April to mid-November or July to August.
* Daiyagawa Youth Hostel (大谷川ユースホステル). Tel. 0288-54-1974; [7]. A cosy and very friendly place which can be a bit narrow at times, but it's the obvious choice for budget travellers with ¥2730 for a bunk bed. The owner is very hearty and is happy to lend guide books and answer questions. Either walk about 10 minutes uphill on the main street or take the bus to the tourist information centre, from there take the first right and follow the road up the river for a few minutes. It's a bit tucked away and directly at the Daiyagawa river.
* Catnip Bed & Breakfast (キャット二ップ). Tel. 0288-54-3120; [8]. This comfortable family-run B&B is a fair hike from the station but the 40 minute walk is beautiful and the owners promise you a free beer on arrival. Alternatively you can take the #6 bus or arrange to be picked up from the station. The rooms are spacious and charming, with shared bathrooms. A bargain at ¥5000 per adult or ¥4000 for children for the first night, there is a ¥1000 discount for each subsequent night and a hot breakfast is included in the price. The owners speak fantastic English.
written by  garisti on June 18, 2007 from Nikko, Japan
from the travel blog: Viaje por Asia

Descripcion
Odawara, Japan
Tránsito para Hakone
written by  garisti on April 1, 2008 from Odawara, Japan
from the travel blog: Viaje por Asia

Descripcion
Hakone, Japan
Hakone (箱根; [1]) is a mountainous area west of Tokyo in Japan. The Hakone checkpoint on the historical Tokaido road marks the beginning of the Kanto region.
By train
The fastest and most expensive method of reaching Hakone from Tokyo is to take a Tokaido Shinkansen Kodama (こだま) train from Tokyo to Odawara, then transfer to the Hakone-Tozan Line for the run to Hakone-Yumoto (trains operated by Odakyu Railway). The one-way ride lasts one hour with a good connection, and costs ¥3430... but if you use the Japan Rail Pass, you need only to pay ¥300 for the Hakone-Tozan line.
Be aware that the JR East Rail Pass does not provide acess to the Tokaido Shinkansen and to make use of this pass you will need to ride the regular Tokaido Main Line to Odawara. From Tokyo, a convenient choice that is valid with the JR East Pass is the "Odoriko" limited express train service. These trains have bigger windows and better seating than the regular commuter trains, and seat reservations can be made. As of March 2007, there are at least four daily runs, arriving in Odawara one hour later; there may also be additional runs on certain days. All trains make a pickup stop at Yokohama, while a few also stop at Shinagawa and Kawasaki stations.
The affordable method of reaching Hakone from Tokyo is to take the Odakyu Odawara Line from Shinjuku station. The fastest train on the Odakyu Line is the Hakone (はこね) Limited Express train (特急 tokkyū), which runs twice an hour for most of the day. The 85-minute journey makes only two stops enroute and costs ¥2020. Note that some trains, called Super Hakone (スーパーはこね), use newer train equipment, while evening rush hour runs from Shinjuku are called Home Way (ホームウェイ). The slower Odakyu express train (急行 kyūkō) runs twice an hour at a cost of only ¥1150, reaching Hakone in two hours.
Rail connections can be made at Odawara from Nagoya (2 1/2 hrs), Kyoto (3 hrs) and other locations throughout Japan.
[edit] Get around
Modes of transport in the Hakone region are many and varied. Your options include:
* The scenic Hakone-Tozan Line mountain railway from Odawara to Gora via Hakone-Yumoto
* The Hakone-Tozan Cablecar up the mountainside from Gora to Sounzan
* The Hakone Ropeway from Sounzan down to Togendai on Lake Ashinoko via the boiling sulphur pits of Owakudani (section is closed for construction and shuttle buses are available)
* The Hakone Sightseeing Ships, decked out like Disneyland versions of pirate ships, sailing across the lake from Togendai to Moto-Hakone and Hakone-machi
* And positively dull in comparison, the Odakyu Bus back to Hakone-Yumoto or Odawara
(Bear in mind that portions of the above circuit may close for a short period of time in the winter for maintenance. Shuttle buses replace the closed services.)
Most people opt for the Odakyu Hakone Free Pass, which includes a return trip from Shinjuku and allows unlimited use of all of the above forms of transport for several days. In addition, pass holders can receive discounts at many hot springs, museums, restaurants, and other locations by showing their pass.
The 2-day Weekday Pass is a particularly good deal at ¥4700 from Shinjuku, ¥3410 from Odawara, allowing travel Monday through Thursday. The Weekday Pass is not sold during summer and holiday periods. The regular 3-day Free Pass is ¥5500 from Shinjuku and ¥4130 from Odawara.
If you have a Free Pass or Weekday Pass from Shinjuku Station, you can use the Hakone Limited Express train by paying a surcharge of ¥870 each way.
[edit] See
Something's cooking at Owakudani
The volcanically active Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, centered around Lake Ashinoko, is a popular tourist attraction well known for its onsen (hot springs) and its views of Mount Fuji.
* The Great Boiling Valley (大涌谷 Ōwakudani) is a volcanic hot spot full of sulphurous springs. Owakudani can be reached by cablecar from Sounzan and the lake.
* Hakone Jinja Shrine, nestled on the south shore of the lake, close to Moto-Hakone, is a picturesque Shinto shrine with torii gates in water.
* Lake Ashinoko offers beautiful views of Mount Fuji but only on a clear day. As many tourists have found out, a visit to Lake Ashinoko does not guarantee a view of the mountain. The lake is crisscrossed by cartoonishly decorated "pirate ships".
* Hakone Open Air Museum displays a wide variety of sculptures and artwork within a beautiful parkland setting. Includes a Picasso exhibition (paintings and pottery).
[edit] Do
No trip to Hakone would be complete without a dip at a Japanese hot spring (onsen). If you're staying overnight, your lodgings may include bathing facilities, but if not many hotels open up their baths to visitors for around ¥500 or so.
* Tenzan Tōjigō (天山湯治郷), Hakone-Yumoto, Chaya 208, [2]. Large, popular hot spring operation with indoor and outdoor baths, sauna, etc. Free shuttle bus from outside the bus station. Open 11 AM-8 PM daily. ¥1000/630 adult/child.
[edit] Eat
* Try the black jewel eggs (黒玉子) at Owakudani. Boiled on site, their shells are a mottled black due to a chemical reaction with the sulphurous water, but the inside is quite tasty. According to Japanese legend, every one you eat will add seven years to your life. 6 eggs (and hence 42 years) will set you back just ¥500.
[edit] Sleep
Hakone has many onsen ryokan, traditional Japanese inns featuring hot springs. Facilities vary widely, although prices are generally somewhat elevated (especially on weekends) due to the proximity of Tokyo.
* Kappa-tengoku Minshuku (tel. 0460-56121, 2 minutes on foot from Hakone-Yumoto station) is a well-located if slightly crumbling cheap inn featuring large open-air baths on the roof. Rates as low as 3300. Meals are optional and run 1470 for dinner and 840 for breakfast.
* Fuji Hakone Guest House 912 Sengokuhara, Hakone, Kanagawa. Tel 0460-46577, Fax 0460-46578, email: hakone-@pop21.odn.ne.jp. This is a very well located guest house popular with both Japanese and foreigners. The staff can speak English. Comfortable Japanese style rooms and breakfast are available as is a natural hot spring bath. Room rates are reasonable and the owners, Mr and Mrs Takahashi, are happy to offer signtseeing advice.
written by  garisti on April 1, 2008 from Hakone, Japan

Descripcion
Fuji, Japan
Mount Fuji (富士山 Fuji-san, 3776 meters) is Japan's highest mountain. Visible from Tokyo on a clear day, the mountain is located to the west of Tokyo on the main island Honshu.
Understand
A perfectly symmetrical volcanic cone, the mountain is a near-mythical national symbol immortalized in countless works of art, including Hokusai's 36 Views of Mt. Fuji.
The Japanese always refer to Mt. Fuji as Fuji-san, but the -san (山) here simply means "mountain", and has nothing to do with the honorific san (さん) for people's names. "Fujiyama" is a misreading of the name, and is never used by the Japanese themselves — except in the set phrase Fujiyama geisha, a lament at how Japan is misunderstood in the West.
[edit] When to go
Climbing out of season
If you have the skills, climbing out of season can be an amazing experience — imagine being the only people on the mountain surrounded by snow looking out over an amazing landscape 3776m up! And you don't have to go all the way, as in good weather, the slopes of Fuji draw numerous people doing various sports activities. Note that the roads to the 5th station will be shut out of season so you will have a long walk up, and also if you intend to climb to the summit, it is necessary to advise the local authorities.
The official climbing season lasts for only two months, from July to August. Even during these months, when Tokyo often swelters in 40-degree heat, temperatures at the top can be below freezing at night and climbers must dress adequately.
Climbing outside the official season is not only technically illegal without police permission but extremely dangerous without alpine climbing experience and equipment. Nearly all facilities are closed in the off season. The weather, unpredictable any time of year, is downright vicious in the winter and there are cases of people being literally blown off the mountain by high winds.
Fortunately, there are a few options for those who are not fit enough to climb or who would like to get "up close" to the mountain in the off-season. The trails at the bottom of the mountain are less steep, and suited more for an afternoon hike at any time of the year. The nearby Fuji Five Lakes (Fuji-goko) has many attractions close to the mountain, and Hakone also provides spectacular views.
[edit] Get in
Main approaches to Mt. Fuji
Mt. Fuji can be approached from all sides, but note that transport schedules are sharply cut outside the official climbing season in July and August. For up to date information, the city of Fujiyoshida maintains a Fuji access page listing current routes and schedules.
From Tokyo, the most economical approach is by Odakyu train from Shinjuku to Gotemba, although you will have to change trains and the price difference is rather minimal. The easiest and most popular option is thus to take a direct bus from Shinjuku to the trailhead at Kawaguchiko Fifth Station.
There are also Fuji-san climbing tours offered by numerous tourist companies through out Japan. These tours may include round trip bus fare, climbing guide, hut, dinner, breakfast (packed rice box), and a visit to a hot spring after the descent. Prices tend to be expensive though: a one-day "superman" tour costs around ¥20000 and a more leisurely two-day approach (including overnight stay) is over ¥30000.
[edit] By bus
The easiest option for reaching the slopes of Mt. Fuji is to take the Keio express bus from Shinjuku in Tokyo. The direct bus takes 2 to 2.5 hours, depending on traffic, costs ¥2600, and takes you directly to the start of the climb at Kawaguchiko 5th Station. To buy a ticket, take the west exit at Shinjuku station, then follow the circle of bus stops to the left. The Keio building is on the corner near stop 26, right across from Yodobashi Camera.
[edit] By train
There is no direct access to Mt. Fuji by train, but you can get pretty close and change to a bus for the rest of the way, and doing it this way allows you to use any of the ascent or descent routes. From Tokyo, the two main staging points are Fujiyoshida and Gotemba, while visitors from western Japan can opt for Fujinomiya (Shin-Fuji) instead.
[edit] Via Fujiyoshida
Fujiyoshida can be reached by taking the JR Chuo line to Otsuki and changing to the Fujikyu line. The Fujikyu line passes through Fujiyoshida to Kawaguchiko, from where hourly buses (50 minutes, ¥1700) shuttle to the 5th Station. If you are planning to walk from the foot of the mountain, Fujiyoshida is, also, the starting point of the Yoshida route. You will be able to visit Fujiyoshida Sengenjinja (shrine) on the way to the summit.
[edit] Via Gotemba
If heading for the Gotemba route (御殿場), Subashiri route, or Suyama route, take the JR Tokaido line from Tokyo through Odawara to Kōzu (府津) station then change train for Gotemba. Alternatively, if traveling from Shinjuku, take the Odakyu line to Shin-Matsuda and walk to the neighboring Gotemba line Matsuda station. This local train usually runs just once per hour.
During official climbing season there are direct buses from the Gotemba station to the Gotemba 5th station that take about 40 minutes and cost ¥1080/1500 one-way/return. Tickets to the Subashiri 5th station are ¥1500/2000 one-way/return. A bus for the Suyama route is ¥530 one-way. If you want to ascend and descend on different routes, you can purchase a 3-day round trip ticket for a little over ¥3000. Note that Gotemba buses run only during the official Fujisan mountain climbing season between July and August, but Subashiri route busses run till October and Suyama route busses run all year around.
There is also a bus to Kawaguchiko from the Gotemba station and a bus from Shin-Matsuda to the Kawaguchiko fifth station (¥3000 one-way).
[edit] Via Fujinomiya
Visitors coming from Chubu or Kansai may wish to opt for the southern approach via Fujinomiya (富士宮) instead. The nearest Tokaido Shinkansen stop is Shin-Fuji station (新富士駅). From Shin-Fuji station, buses cost ¥4500 return. If arriving on the ordinary Tokaido line, change trains to the JR Fujinomiya line at Fuji station.
[edit] By car
Take the Chuo Expressway from Shinjuku. Tolls around ¥2,500.
[edit] Get around
Once on the mountain the only way of getting around is on foot. The sole exception is horseback riding, available on the Fujiguchiko trail between the 5th and 7th stations only for the steep price of ¥12,000.
[edit] See
For merely seeing Mt. Fuji, it's better to maintain some distance. The most popular places for sightseeing tours of Fuji and surroundings are Hakone, to the east of Mt. Fuji towards Tokyo, and the Fuji Five Lakes, located just north of the mountain.
The Mt. Fuji Welcome Card is a free card that can get you discounts for various attractions and tours in the vicinity.
[edit] Do
Torii gate at the summit
No spot in this world can be more horrible, more atrociously dismal, than the cindered tip of the Lotus as you stand upon it. — Lafcadio Hearn (1898)
The thing to do on Mt. Fuji is, of course, to climb it. As the Japanese say, a wise man climbs Fuji once, and a fool twice, but the true wisdom of this phrase is usually only learned the hard way. Depending on your pace, the climb up will take 5 to 8 hours, and the descent another 3 to 4. An overnight climb in order to reach the top for the sunrise (go-raiko) is the most traditional thing, but you will probably be shuffling along in a slow-moving line for the latter stages of the ascent. Consider starting out in the late morning to reach the summit for the equally majestic sunset, with a tiny fraction of the crowds to accompany you. Afterward, you can try to sleep in a mountain hut (see below) and catch the sunrise if you like; two for the effort of one.
[edit] Preparation
An absolute minimum set of clothing for climbing Fuji would be:
* sturdy shoes (hiking boots if possible)
* rain clothing
* head cover
Gloves and warm, layered clothing are also strongly recommended. Other supplies you will need are:
* flashlight and spare batteries (if climbing at night)
* sunglasses and sunscreen (which will most likely be needed during the descent even if you climb at night)
* toilet paper
* Japanese yen, as the toilets are pay-per-use
* plastics bags to carry garbage and keep off the damp
* your camera for the spectacular views!
Also bring along at least 1 liter of water per person, preferably 2. High-energy snacks as well as a more substantial fare (rice balls and such) will also come in very handy.
[edit] Kawaguchiko route
The most popular starting point is Kawaguchiko 5th Station (河口湖五合目 Kawaguchiko Go-gōme, 2305m), which offers you a last chance to stock on supplies before heading out. The initial stretch through flowery meadows is pleasant enough, but the bulk of the hike is a dreary and interminable slog: the volcanic landscape consists of jagged red rock in varying sizes from dust to boulder, with the trail zigzagging left and right endlessly, and the hike just gets steeper and steeper as you progress. Actual rock climbing is not required, but you will wish to use your hands at some points.
The trail is well marked and in season you will find it difficult to get lost, as the trip is completed annually by 300,000 people and there may even be human traffic jams at some of the dicier spots. However, due to the danger of landslides do not venture beyond the trail; visibility may also be very rapidly reduced to near-zero if clouds roll in.
Once at the top, you will pass under a small torii gate and encounter a group of huts selling drinks and souvenirs; this being Japan, you will even find vending machines on the top of Mount Fuji. Yes, this is as anticlimactic as it sounds, but with any luck seeing the sunrise above the clouds will make up for it. You can also gaze into the long-dormant crater at the center of the mountain. Strictly speaking, this is not the highest point of the mountain; that honor goes to the meteorological station on the other side of the crater, an additional 30 minutes hike away and not really worth the trouble. A full circuit of the crater takes around an hour.
There is a separate path for descending down the mountain back to Kawaguchiko; be sure you take the right one! Do not attempt to run down the mountain; rolling down isn't fun, it's a long way to the nearest hospital, and you don't want to find out how much a helicopter medevac costs in Japan.
[edit] Gotembaguchi route
Gotembaguchi route
This is the longest and toughest access route from the fifth station, with Gotemba 5th Station (御殿場五合目 Gotemba Go-gōme) located at 1440 meters, nearly 900 meters lower down than Kawaguchiko.
There are separate routes for ascent and descent, which will take 7 and 3 hours accordingly. The path is clearly marked with signs, so night climbing is possible. For your own safety, it is not allowed to walk on the bulldozer path, which crosses pedestrian path several times. The climb from the 5th to the 6th station is over an enormous ash field, which formed during a recent eruption in 1707. Two mountain huts at 7th and 8th stations operate during official climbing season and also provide warm food (curry rice, ramen, soba, drinks etc). Beware of rocks from 8th station and above. It is essential to bring enough water supplies or buy water at the fifth station, because there are limited place to resupply.
Advantages of this trail:
* Less people, so you can go on your own speed and have more space to sleep at the mountain huts
* Mountain top is visible
* Can run down the ashed covered path from the seventh station.
* No rock climbing
Disadvantages of this trail:
* Fewer mountain huts
* During descent ash can make clothes and shoes very dirty
* Transportation to the fifth station is limited
[edit] Other routes
There are two other Fifth Stations at Subashiri (須走, 1980 meters) and Fujinomiya (富士宮, 2400 meters). Fujinomiya is the shortest route, but as it is on the "wrong" side you will not be able to see the sunrise before the summit.
Beside climbing from the fifth station, there are three routes from Sengenjinja at the foot of the mountain. They are Yoshida route, Suyama route, and Murayama route. Murayama route is the oldest climbing route, followed by Suyama route. These routes offers glimpse of history of Mount Fuji climbing and are being restored. Be warned, however, not to expect to see too many people climbing from these routes.
[edit] Buy, Eat and Drink
If you have an energy to haul food and drink, buy before coming to Mount Fuji.
Kawaguchiko 5th Station is the last place to have a meal or stock up on supplies without breaking the bank, although there's a bit of inflation even here.
All stations along the Kawaguchiko trail, as well as the summit itself, are equipped with mountain huts that sell drinks, candy (¥250 for a Snickers bar) and basic climbing gear (sticks, flashlights, raincoats, even oxygen canisters). If your climbing staff becomes a cherished companion, you can pay to have an official seal burned into it marking your arrival at every station, making a handsome souvenir (as long as you don't mind lugging it around with you). As all materials have to be hauled up by tractors, food and drink prices are high and rise the closer you get to the summit. For example, a vending machine at the summit sells drinks and cans of corn soup for ¥400.
Note that most huts will not allow visitors to stay within the (heated) huts without paying a resting fee, either ¥1000-2000 per hour or ¥5,000 yen for the entire night (see Sleep). Simple meals (curry rice and such), if available at all, will cost in the range of ¥1000.
The summit has fewer people staying overnight and many more people resting, so the price of a cup of tea or a bowl of noodles is somewhat more reasonable.
The huts also have extremely basic toilets, but they get the job done (¥200). Instead of the usual noxious sweet deodorant, some of these toilets use a pepper scent to mask the smell of the waste.
At the summit, you can set your postcards apart from the rest with a postmark from the highest post office in Japan (and perhaps the world). You might as well do a post-sunrise circuit around the summit, though, because the Mount Fuji post office observes strict bureaucratic protocol, and doesn't open until 8am. Next to the post office is a small shrine and a stand where you can purchase fairly nice embossed certificates with an Official Stamp to mark your ascent; remember, though, as they say on Mount Everest, you've only climbed the mountain if you make it back down as well.
[edit] Sleep
Huts from 7th station onward also offer primitive accommodations; reservations are strongly recommended if you plan on staying in these. Prices are pretty much standardized at ¥5250 a night for a very cramped space (one tatami mat or less) shared with the halitosis, funky boot juice and snoring of 150-500 strangers, plus an optional ¥1050/2100 for one/two meals.
* Hinode-kan, Kawaguchiko 7th Station, tel. 0555-24-6522, [1]. Notable primarily for having the only bilingual website on Mt. Fuji (but no regular bilingual staff). A stay costs ¥5250 per person, and there is space for about 200.
* Fujisan Hotel, Kawaguchiko 8th Station, tel. 0555-22-0237. The largest hut on the mountain, with space for about 500. In two separate but nearby huts, it's a far cry from a hotel, but unlike most others English is spoken here.
A full list of huts (in English) with phone numbers is available hereand here. Fujiyoshida's official website has more updated info on the Kawaguchiko trail's huts [2]
[edit] Stay safe
Mount Fuji is a real mountain and should be treated with respect. Near the top the air is noticeably thinner, which may cause altitude sickness and breathing difficulties. The hike to the top is taxing, but hypothermia strikes when waiting for sunrise at the goal, while injuries typically occur during the descent phase when you're tired. Especially after heavy rains landslides are also a possibility.
It is very cold on top. During summer, when at the mountain foot the temperature is a sweltering 35°C, at the top it will be 7°C during the day and less during the night (ice and frost are common sights throughout the year). If you choose to climb in around New Year, you could experience -30°C on the mountain top.
These warnings are not a joke: every year inadequately prepared people die on Fuji.
written by  garisti on April 1, 2008 from Fuji, Japan

Nagoya, Japan
Nagoya (名古屋, [1]) is in Aichi prefecture, in the Chubu region of Honshu, one of the islands in Japan.
The hub of the Aichi region, Nagoya is Japan's fourth-largest city after Tokyo, Yokohama and Osaka. The focal points of this sprawling agglomeration are Nagoya station (名古屋駅) to the north, Sakae (栄) to the east and Kanayama (金山) to the south).
[edit] Get in
[edit] By plane
Not arriving via Centrair Airport?
* If you happen to arrive in Japan at Osaka's Kansai International Airport, Nagoya can be reached in no less than two hours by taking the Haruka limited express train to Shin-Osaka station, then changing to the Tokaido Shinkansen.
* A small number of air flights operate daily from Tokyo's Narita Airport to Centrair Airport, for the benefit of international passengers. Otherwise, Nagoya is no less than three hours away by taking the Narita Express limited express train to Tokyo station, then changing to the Tokaido Shinkansen.
Chubu Centrair International Airport, Japan's third major international gateway, is located on an artificial island 30 minutes south from the center of town. Facilities include two hotels and an onsen spa with views of the runways. Centrair opened in 2005, and this airport replaces the existing Nagoya airport, also taking over its IATA code NGO.
The best way of connecting between Centrair Airport and central Nagoya is the Meitetsu Airport Line. Limited expresses take just 28 minutes (¥980 plus a usually-optional ¥350 for a reserved seat) to cover the distance to the city. Note that Meitetsu trains are not free for JR Railpass riders.
[edit] Nagoya Airport
While all other companies have moved to Chubu, regional flights by J-Air still use the old Nagoya Airport (NKM), also known as Komaki Airport, to the north of the city. Shuttle buses (¥850) connect to Nagoya station in 28 minutes.
[edit] By train
Nagoya is located along the Tokaido Shinkansen route between Tokyo and Osaka. To the west are Gifu and Kyoto, and to the east are Hamamatsu and Shizuoka.
* A one-way ride from Tokyo is about 1 hour, 40 minutes via Nozomi (¥10780) and between 1 3/4 and 2 hours via Hikari (¥10580).
* From Kyoto, Nagoya is reachable in 36 minutes via Nozomi (¥5640) and between 36 and 55 minutes via Hikari or Kodama (¥5440).
* From the Shin-Osaka station in Osaka, Nagoya is 53 minutes away via Nozomi (¥6380) and between 53 and 70 minutes away via Hikari or Kodama (¥6180).
Thru Nozomi trains from western Japan reach Nagoya from Okayama (1 hr 40 mins, ¥10980), Hiroshima (2 hrs 20 mins, ¥13830) and Hakata station in Fukuoka (3 hrs 20 mins, ¥18030). It is slightly longer via the Hikari service; you will need to change trains at least once, either at Okayama, Shin-Kobe, or Shin-Osaka.
If you wish to sacrifice travel speed for savings, you can take advantage of the Puratto Kodama Ticket (in Japanese), which offers a discount for Kodama services if you purchase at least one day in advance. You get a reserved seat and a free drink on board. With this ticket a trip to Nagoya costs ¥7900 from Tokyo (3 hours; 2 trains per hour), ¥4100 from Kyoto (1 hour; 1 train per hour) and ¥4200 from Shin-Osaka (1 1/4 hours; 1 train per hour). A few early-morning Kodama trains cannot be used with this ticket.
Nagoya also serves as the terminal point for the hourly Wide View Shinano, a limited express train that runs from the mountain resort towns of Nagano and Matsumoto. Nagoya is reached in 3 hours and 2 hours, respectively.
Local trains from Tokyo take about 6 hours at a cost of ¥6090, requiring several train changes along the way. However, trips on local trains are more valuable if you purchase and use a Seishun 18 Ticket during the valid time period. Otherwise, consider using a bus starting from ¥5000, or step up to the bullet train for ¥7900 using the Puratto Kodama Ticket.
Remember that the Japan Rail Pass covers all journeys described above, EXCEPT for Nozomi trains.
Nagoya is also served by the Meitetsu and Kintetsu private railways. If coming to Nagoya from Osaka, a travel option that comes cheaper than the Shinkansen is a Kintetsu limited express service called the Urban Liner (アーバンライナー), which runs out of Namba station. The Urban Liner departs at 0 and 30 minutes past the hour, covering the journey in as little as two hours, but at a cost of ¥4150 each way. (The shinkansen, by comparison, makes the run from Shin-Osaka to Nagoya in under an hour for ¥5670). Japan Rail Passes are not vaild for the Urban Liner.
[edit] By bus
A cheaper method of reaching Nagoya is by bus. Day and night services run to Nagoya from most parts of the country, particularly from Kanto. For example, a night service from Tokyo to Nagoya on JR Kanto Bus costs ¥6420 one way (discounted trips ¥5000 each way), while daytime services cost ¥5100 one way. The trip takes roughly 6 hours to complete.
[edit] Get around
Nagoya is a big automotive industry center, and it shows. Trains and subways are less convenient than in Tokyo or Kansai, but more expensive. For those travelling with a JR Rail Pass, note that the train network doesn't have many stations in the city and you'll probably find yourself using the bus or subway alot, something your pass won't cover.
[edit] By subway
There are 4 main subway lines:
* The red Sakuradōri Line (桜通線) connects Nagoya Station to Sakae before curving south.
* The purple Meijō Line (名城線) runs in a loop around the eastern side of the city, connecting Sakae and Kanayama; the Meikō Line (名港線) spur branches from Kanayama to Nagoya Port.
* The yellow Higashiyama Line (東山線) connects Nagoya, Fushimi, Sakae, and Fujigaoka.
* The blue Tsurumai Line (鶴舞線) connects Fushimi and Osu Kannon, then goes south.
Subways run every several minutes between about 05:30 until about 00:30. Fares range from ¥200 to ¥320. A one-day subway pass is also available for ¥600 (although the multilingual city guides still quote the summer 2005 Expo prices of ¥600 for bus, ¥740 for subway, and ¥850 for bus & subway).
[edit] See
* Nagoya Castle (名古屋城 Nagoya-jō). Trumpeted as a famous landmark, particularly the two golden carp (金の鯱 kin-no-shachi) on the roof, but in truth recently rebuilt in concrete. The inside is an interesting enough museum (no pictures allowed) and the gardens surrounding it, nothing special. 500 yen for entry. To get there by subway, take the Meijo line and get off at Shiyakusho station. If you've seen other Japanese castles, you can safely give it a miss.
* Atsuta Shrine (熱田神宮 Atsuta Jingū), Jingūmae station. This shrine houses the sacred Kusanagi no mitsurugi (草薙神剣) sword, one of the three Imperial regalia of Japan — but unfortunately nobody but the emperor and a few high priests get to see it. There are some 4,400 other artifacts on the grounds though and the shrine hosts some 70 festivals every year.
* Nagoya/Boston Museum of Fine Arts, 1-1-1 Kanayama-cho, Naka-ku (next to Kanayama station), 052-684-0786, [2]. Closed Mondays, Tuesday through Friday 10am to 7pm, Saturday, Sunday, Holidays 10am to 5 pm. Like any world-class art museum, the MFA in Boston has far more in its archives than it can reasonably display. This sister institution is one way to make the most of the extensive collection. Student / Adult admission: 300/400 yen for the general collection, 900/1200 yen for special exhibits.
* Tokugawa Art Museum. Displaying some treasures of the Tokugawa family.
* Nittaiji Temple (日泰寺), 1-1 Hohocho, Chikusa-ku, tel. 052-751-2121, [3]. Among the 165,000 square meters of temple grounds is the 15 meter Gandala-style Taian Pagoda, which houses relics of the Buddha that were presented to Japan by the king of Thailand.
[edit] Do
* Higashiyama Park (東山公園 Higashiyama-koen). (Higashiyama-koen station). Features a zoo, conservatory, monorail, roller coasters, "sky tower" and a great deal of open space.
[edit] Buy
* Osu Market, subway Osu Kannon exit 2 (straight ahead one block, turn left into the temple grounds and go straight on through the gravelled temple area). A series of old style shopping arcades packed with mom-and-pop stores, 100 yen shops, traditional crafts, used computers and a fantastic range of clothing stores. There is a little bit of everything. Osu is the shopping area and Osu Kannon the temple just to the west side.
* Sakae is a good choice for your mainstream department store shopping, restaurants, and night-life. Take a walk atop Oasis 21 and get a nice view of the TV Tower.
[edit] Eat
Nagoya is big on miso, a sauce made from fermented soybeans and grain. You should not leave the city without trying misokatsu (味噌カツ), fried pork cutlet with a rich, red miso sauce on it.
The other Nagoya classic is shrimp tempura, particularly when wrapped up in rice and dried seaweed and turned into a handy portable package known as a tenmusu (天むす).
The city is also known for uiro, basically red bean jelly, a substance a little firmer than gelatin, with a subtle flavour.
Nagoya's noodle specialty is kishimen, a flat, broad noodle served in a miso or soy sauce broth. Available in most restauran-gai in shopping centres or close to major railway stations.
[edit] Budget
* Café de Metro, 1F Kanayama station (North Exit). Serves up basic curry and donburi dishes (including a decent misokatsu) for ¥480 with coffee/tea, or ¥680 with miso soup and pickles.
[edit] Mid-range
* Kanran aka Marche du Soleil, [4], map on the website. European style restaurant, near Osu Kannon subway station. Plenty of vegetarian options on the (available in English) menu - the organic vegetable sticks and vegetable pizza are good choices. Staff are friendly and speak a useable amount of English.
* Yamamotoya Sōhonke (山本屋総本家), 25-9 Meieki, B1F Horinouchi Bldg (on Sakura-dori not far from Exit 6 of the Nagoya subway station). The home of the classic Nagoya miso dish nikomi udon, consisting of thick, chewy, handmade udon noodles served in boiling hot miso sauce/stock. Fairly pricy at ¥1200 for a basic bowl and rather difficult to eat — diners are provided with bibs to protect themselves from soup spray — but the effort is worth it.
[edit] Splurge
[edit] Drink
There are countless izakayas around Kanayama station, both cheap chains and more upscale places.
Around Nagoya station are a lot of places for cheap drinking. Sakae is the big nightlife district, in a lose triangle formed by the Sakae, Yaba-cho and Osu Kannon stations. Sakae has a large red light district as well, but as with most of Japan there's no sense of danger so don't worry about drifting around.
For a foreign fix, try Shooter's close to Fushimi station, an American sports bar that attracts a mixed crowd with live music on Sundays, or The Red Rock, located directly behind the Chunichi Building in Sakae for your Australian pub experience. Hard Rock Cafe, also close to Hilton, serves the usual mix of rock music and American food.
[edit] Night Clubs
Nagoya has some of the best clubs in Japan, possibly second only to Tokyo. A lot of the Djs who play Tokyo also pass through Nagoya.
* ID club - the most popular and well-known club in Nagoya. In Sakae.
* Radix[5] - one of the bigger clubs in Nagoya, a lot of big house, jungle and dub Djs play here. Expect to pay from 2000-3000 yen, usually with a free drink included.
* Club Daughter[6] has something happening almost every night, so you'll never be stuck for something to do. Its a small place though, to western clubbers it may seem more like a basement party then a club and if you're going out on a monday or a tuesday, you may find it pretty empty. Fridays and Saturdays the place is normally packed. Drinks are about 600 yen each, entry varies, check on the site.
* Club JB's[7] is another good Nagoya club. Right around the corner from Club Daughter.
* J-Max [8] in Fushimi attracts foreigners and Japanese alike for your weekend dance event. Entry fee is usually 2000-3000 yen, with a couple of drinks included.
* the Underground in Shin-Sakae has two floors for one price, upstairs is hip-hop at maximum volume levels, while downstairs more dance music is played. Always a happy crowd without annoying bouncers, ladies pay 1500 and guys 2000 with 2 drinks included. Foreigners welcome.
[edit] Sleep
* Capsule Inn Nagoya (カプセルイン名古屋), 7F Kanayama 4-1-20 (on Otsu-dori near Kanayama stn), tel. (052)331-3278, [9]. Showing its age, but kept clean and still a perfectly functional capsule hotel. Reservations accepted and you're free to come and go, payment on arrival by cash or credit card. ¥2800 gets you a capsule for night, plus ¥800 if you want to sample the sauna/spa downstairs (there are no bathing facilities in the capsule levels) and ¥500 extra if you check-in after midnight. You get ¥300 off if you present a paper with the printout of the online coupon at check-in time. Hotel is men only.
* APA Hotel Nagoya Nishiki, 3-15-30 Nishiki, Chuo-ku (Sakae subway station, exit 2, one block forward), 052-953-5111, fax 052-951-7269. This business hotel is located in the middle of the Sakae dining and shopping district. The rooms are comparatively clean and the staff speaks English; internet access is included. ¥9800/single. [10]
* Meitetsu Inn Nagoya Kanayama (名鉄イン名古屋金山), 1-11-7 Kanayama, Naka-ku (Kanayama subway station, exit 6. Turn right at Daiei, left at Coco, look for the blue-and-white Japanese sign), 052-324-3434, fax 052-324-3435. This business hotel was built in February 2005 and has very clean rooms; in-room internet access and breakfast is included. The staff has some limited English ability. ¥6800/¥10,800/¥13,000 for single/small double/double [11] (in Japanese)
* Marriott Associa Hotel, Nagoya Station (directly above Takashimaya Department Store). A three minute walk from a Nozomi Shinkansen train to a well-marked elevator portal takes you to the 15th floor check-in level. This often-full five star hotel (20,000 to 70,000 yen/night) is equipped with ten good restaurants, which tend to be jammed, but the adjacent office tower also has more than 20 restaurants on two levels ranging from inexpensive noodle eateries to high-end sushi places. Note that if you have a concierge room reservation, you need to go to the concierge level (35th floor) to check in. Rooms are extremely clean and comfortable.
[edit] Cope
Nagoya Tourist Information has branches in Nagoya and Kanayama stations.
The city's two Citibank branches for foreign-friendly cash withdrawals are in Sakae, and in the North Tower above Nagoya Station. Post offices may prove more convenient.
[edit] Get out
* Inuyama, with its picturesque castle, kinky fertility shrines, and nearby Meiji Village, is a short day trip from the city.
* Ise, home to Japan's holiest shrine, is within striking distance.
written by  garisti on April 1, 2008 from Nagoya, Japan

Kyoto, Japan
Nestled among mountains in Western Honshu, Kyōto (京都; [2]) has a reputation worldwide as Japan's most beautiful city. However, visitors will be surprised how much work they will have to do to see its beautiful side. Most visitors' first impressions will be of the urban sprawl of central Kyoto, around the ultra-modern glass-and-steel train station.
Nonetheless, the persistent tourist will soon discover Kyoto's hidden beauty in the temples and parks which ring the city center, and find that the city has even more than meets the eye.
Kyoto was the capital of Japan and the residence of the Emperor from 794 until the Meiji Restoration of 1868, when the capital was moved to Tokyo. During its millennium at the center of Japanese power, culture, tradition, and religion, it accumulated an unparalleled collection of palaces, temples and shrines, built for emperors, shoguns, geishas and monks. Almost alone among Japanese cities, Kyoto escaped the Allied bombings of World War II, although it could be argued that the concrete redevelopment that turned 95% of Kyoto into an ordinary Japanese city did just as thorough a job.
[edit] Get in
[edit] By plane
Not arriving at Kansai or Itami?
* A small number of air flights operate daily from Tokyo's Narita Airport to Itami and Kansai, for the benefit of international passengers. Otherwise, Kyoto is no less than four hours away by taking the Narita Express limited express train to Tokyo station, then changing to the Tokaido Shinkansen.
* If you happen to arrive at Nagoya's Chubu Centrair International Airport, Kyoto can be reached in no less than 80 minutes by taking the Meitetsu Airport Line to Nagoya, then changing to the Tokaido Shinkansen.
Kyoto does not have its own airport. The nearest international gateway is Kansai International Airport in Osaka. JR West's Haruka limited express train runs to Kyoto twice per hour (1 1/4 hours, ¥3490, no charge with Japan Rail Pass). Cheaper limousine buses run once or twice an hour to the south entrance of Kyoto Station (1 3/4 hours; ¥2300).
Most domestic flights land at Osaka's Itami Airport. Airport limousine buses run three times per hour to the south entrance of Kyoto Station (1 hour, ¥1280).
[edit] By train
Most visitors arrive at JR Kyoto station by Shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo. Nozomi trains make the trip in approximately 2 1/4 hours and cost ¥13520. Hikari trains, which run less frequently and make a few more stops, cover the trip in around 2 3/4 hours, but only the Hikari and the Kodama trains can be used by Japan Rail Pass holders at no charge.
Travellers can also take advantage of the Puratto Kodama Ticket (in Japanese), which offers a discount for the all-stopping Kodama services if you purchase at least one day in advance. You get a reserved seat and a free drink on board. With this ticket a trip from Tokyo to Kyoto costs ¥9800 and takes 3 3/4 hours. Note that there is only one Kodama service per hour from Tokyo, and a few early-morning Kodama trains cannot be used with this ticket.
For travel in the Kansai region, a cheaper and nearly as fast alternative is the JR shinkaisoku (新快速) rapid service, which connects to Osaka, Kobe and Himeji at the price of a local train. Slightly cheaper yet are the private Hankyu or Keihan lines to Osaka and Kobe, or the Kintetsu line to Nara.
[edit] By bus
As Kyoto is a major city, there are many daytime and overnight buses which run between Kyoto and other locations throughout Japan, which can result in significant savings when compared to shinkansen fares.
The JR Bus Group (Japanese Website) is a major operator of the routes from the Tokyo area to Kansai. Buses operate via the Tomei Expressway (to/from Tokyo Station) or the Chuo Expressway (to/from Shinjuku Station). You can receive a discount of between 10 and 35 percent off the cost of the ticket if reservations are made at least 21 days in advance on most routes.
Other bus companies offer trips between Tokyo and Kyoto, but it should be pointed out that seat reservations for JR Buses can be made in train stations at the same "Midori-no-Madoguchi" ticket windows used to reserve seats on trains. Moreover, the Japan Rail Pass is valid on ALL JR buses operating from the Tokyo area to Kyoto. (Note that the pass is NOT valid on buses to/from Yokohama.)
From Tokyo, buses run to and from Kyoto in approximately eight hours. Major bus locations are as follows:
* Tokyo: Tokyo Station Yaesu Exit (東京駅八重洲口), with a few buses discharging at the Nihombashi Exit (東京駅日本橋口)
* Shinjuku: Shinjuku Station New South Exit (新宿駅新南口)
* Kyoto: At Kyoto Station, most buses stop at the Karasuma Exit (京都駅烏丸口) to the north, while others use the Hachijo Exit (京都駅八条口) to the south.
The following services are available: (Current as of January, 2007)
[edit] Daytime buses from Tokyo
There are two daily departures from Tokyo Station on the Tomei Expressway, departing at 10:20 and 12:20 in either direction.
There are two daily departures from Shinjuku Station on the Chuo Expressway, departing at 9:20 and 11:20 in either direction.
All runs cost ¥6000 one-way and ¥10000 round-trip.
[edit] Nighttime buses from Tokyo
The nighttime bus service from Tokyo to Kansai is called Dream. This route name has several variants.
* The Dream Kyoto is a bus that runs from Tokyo Station to Kyoto Station via the Tomei Expressway. There are two nightly departures from Tokyo at 22:00 and 23:10, with a third departure at 22:10 on Fridays, weekends and holidays. Returning buses leave from Kyoto Station at 22:00 (Fridays, weekends and holidays only), 23:00 and 23:40.
* The Ladies Dream Kyoto is a special bus for women only, running from Tokyo Station to Kyoto Station. The bus departs from Tokyo at 23:10, and departs from Kyoto at 23:00.
* The Chuo Dream Kyoto runs from Shinjuku Station to Kyoto Station via the Chuo Expressway. The bus departs from Shinjuku at 23:50, and departs from Kyoto at 23:10. An additional bus departs at 22:30 in either direction on Fridays, weekends and holidays.
* The Seishun Dream Kyoto-Nara runs from Tokyo Station to Nara Station via the Tomei Expressway, with a stop at Kyoto station. There is one nightly departure from Tokyo at 21:50, and one departure from Kyoto at 22:40.
* The Seishun Chuo Dream Kyoto runs from Shinjuku Station to Kyoto Station via the Chuo Expressway. It departs from Shinjuku at 23:10, with the return run leaving from Kyoto at 22:50.
The ride costs ¥8180 one-way and ¥14480 round-trip, except for the Seishun buses, which cost only ¥5000 one-way and ¥9500 round-trip. The notable difference is that Seishun buses use four-across seating found in standard buses, while the others use more comfortable and wider three-across seating.
* An overnight bus, the Harbor Line Kyoto, serves Yokohama. The bus leaves from Yokohama station's east exit at 22:40, with the return trip leaving Kyoto at 22:40. The cost is ¥7950 one-way and ¥14310 round-trip.
The sheer size of the city of Kyoto, and the distribution of tourist attractions around the periphery of the city, make the city's public transport system invaluable.
One of the easiest ways to plan a route is through Hyperdia, [3]. . This website contains station-to-station route plans, which reference public and private trains and subways as well as buses throughout Japan.
The Kansai Thru Pass (Surutto Kansai) stored-value card can be used on all means of transportation in Kyoto (and the rest of the Kansai region), with the notable exception of JR trains. You can purchase the cards in denominations starting at ¥1000 at any train or subway station.
[edit] By bicycle
Particularly in spring and fall, but at any time of year, getting around by bicycle is an excellent option. Cycling forms a major form of personal transport year-round for locals. The city's grid layout (copied from Xian), arranged between mountains on three sides, makes navigation easy. You can also rent bicycles in many places in Japan for a reasonable price. During the peak tourist seasons, when roads are busy and buses tend to be crammed beyond capacity, bicycles are probably the best way to navigate Kyoto.
Kyoto's wide, straight roads make for heavy traffic in many parts of the city, but it is possible to find back alleys that are quieter and offer better chances to happen upon all sorts of sightseeing/cultural gems. Riding on major roads is OK, especially if you are confident and used to riding with traffic on the road, rather than on the sidewalk and especially again if you are used to riding/driving on the LEFT-HAND side of the road. If you have no experience riding on the 'wrong'-side of the road, you may want to reconsider as a visit to a busy city may not be the time or place to experiment with a potentially dangerous activity.
* Kyoto Cycling Tour Project, ☎ 075-954-3636, [4]. A five-minute walk from the North Exit (the side with the buses and Kyoto Tower) of Kyoto Station, immediately turn left (west) and head down the street that runs between the station and the Post Office, continuing across the street and past the Kyoto Campus Plaza. Soon the street dead-ends and then you turn right and you will see the shop (orange awning) right away. Bikes range from ¥1000 to ¥2000 for an actual 27-speed mountain bike with city-tires on it; perfect for the average foreigner who is used to a 'real' bike in their home country. The following options can be added: bi-lingual cycling/walking map of Kyoto ¥100; light ¥100; helmet ¥200; back pack; ¥100; rain poncho ¥100. They can hold on to your luggage while you are riding. There are four other locations of KCTP and you can return your bike to any location, however you will incur a ¥200 charge if you return the bike to a location other than the one you rented from. Guided bike tours are also available ranging from ¥3900 (three hours) to ¥9800 (7.5 hours) than include guide, bike rental, lunch/snacks, accident insurance and admission to some attractions on the tour. Minimum of two people to guarantee departure/maximum of 10. A walking tour may be substituted in the case of inclement weather. Must reserve three days in advance if you want a tour. The map is excellent value for ¥100 - it is very easy to read and includes some sensible recommended itineraries. Don't worry if the mountain bikes sell out - Kyoto (like Tokyo) is a city with perfect kerb transitions so a 3 speed with basket and bell is fine, if a little bumpy on the river path.
* There is a bicycle rental shop across the street from the Keihan Demachiyanagi station. It is ¥300 yen for a day, ¥450 for a day and night, and ¥2000 for a month.
The Keihan train line can be useful for traveling in eastern Kyoto, while the two Keifuku tram lines are an attractive way of traveling in the northwest.
[edit] By subway
Kyoto is criss-crossed by several subway lines, all of which are clearly sign-posted in English. Although the lines are run independently and prices vary slightly between them, transfers can be purchased at most of the ticket machines. The north-south Karasuma Line runs under Kyoto Station, and the west-east Tozai Line links up with it near the city center. Both are useful for travel in the city center but not really suitable for temple-hopping. The Tozai Line does connect with the Keihan Line, however, which runs parallel to the Kamo-gawa, and is convenient for reaching Gion and southern Kyoto; it also gets you within a short walk of many of the sights in eastern Kyoto. Across the street from the northern terminus of the Keihan Line is the Eidan Eizan line, which runs to Mount Hiei and Kurama.
The Hankyu Line starts at Shijo-Kawaramachi downtown, and connects to the Karasuma Line one stop later at Karasuma. It's useful for reaching Arashiyama and the Katsura Rikyu; it runs all the way to Osaka and Kobe.
The bus network is the only practical way of reaching some attractions, particularly those in north-western Kyoto. Many buses depart from Kyoto station, but there is also a bus station closer to the city center at Sanjo-Kawabata, just outside the Sanjo Keihan subway line. Most city buses have a fixed fare of ¥220, but you can also purchase a one day pass (¥500 for adults and 250 yen for children under 12) with which you can ride an unlimited number of times within a one day period. The day passes can be bought from the bus drivers or from the bus information centre just outside the Kyoto Station. This is especially useful if you plan on visiting many different points of interest within Kyoto. You can also buy a combined unlimited subway and bus pass for ¥1200.
Unlike most Japanese buses, Kyoto's buses have announcements and electronic signs in English. The municipal transport company publishes a very useful leaflet called Bus Navi[5]. It contains a route map for the bus lines to most sights and fare information. You can pick it up at the information centre in front of the main station.
Kyoto offers an incredible number of attractions for tourists, and visitors will probably need to plan an itinerary in advance in order to visit as many as possible.
[edit] North-western Kyoto
The Zen Garden at Ryoan-ji
Visiting the vast temple complexes of north-western Kyoto can take the better part of a day. A suggested itinerary is to take the subway (Karasuma line) to Kitaoji station, and walk west along Kitaoji-dori. Daitokuji, Kinkakuji, Ryoanji and Ninnaji Temples are all on Kitaoji-dori, and about 15-30 minutes' walk apart. En route, you will see the giant "dai" (大) symbol burned on Mt. Daimon-ji, which can be climbed in an hour or so - look for the entrance near Ginkaku-ji (see below). If you're in Kyoto at night on August 16th, look up - you'll see the (大) aflame. Hirano Shrine is a short walk south along Nishioji-dori from Kinkakuji. If you still have time left at the end of the day, take the pleasant electric railway (Keifuku Kitano line) from Omuro to Katabiranotsuji, then take the JR Sagano line from nearby Uzumasa station back to central Kyoto.
* Daitokuji (大徳寺). A small and understated temple complex, boasting several small, secluded subtemples. Daitokuji is the quietest of the temples in north-western Kyoto, and if you visit it at the start of the day, you could virtually have it to yourself. Eight of the twenty-four subtemples open to the public (most days 9am-5pm), and each charges an admission fee (around ¥400). The highlight of the subtemples is Daisen-in, located on the northern side of the temple complex, which has a beautiful Zen garden without the crowds of Ryoanji Temple. Koto-in is particularly noted for its maple trees, which are beautiful in autumn. Nearest bus stop: Daitokuji-mae.
* Kinkaku-ji (金閣寺). The Temple of the Golden Pavilion, formally known as Rokuonji (鹿苑寺), is the most popular tourist attraction in Kyoto. The pavilion was originally built as a retirement villa for Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu in the late 12th century, and converted into a temple by his son. However, the pavilion was burnt down in 1950, by a young monk who had become obsessed with it. (The story became the basis for Yukio Mishima's novel The Temple of the Golden Pavilion.) The pavilion was rebuilt to look even more garish than before - extending the gold leaf covering it to the lower floor. The beautiful landscaping and the reflection of the temple on the face of the water make for a striking sight, but keeping the mobs of visitors out of your photos will be a stern test for your framing abilities (and a dilemma for your photographic honesty). Get there early if you can to beat the school groups. Visitors follow a path through the moss garden surrounding the pavilion, before emerging into a square crowded with gift shops. It's only a short walk from Ryōan-ji (below), making for an easy pairing (and study in contrasts). Open daily 9am-5pm, admission ¥400. Nearest bus stop: Kinkakuji-michi or Kinkakuji-mae.
* Hirano Shrine (平野神社). A small shrine, which is an especially popular destination during the cherry blossom season, setting up amusement and food stalls. A small park of cherry trees next to the shrine is hung with lanterns and drawings by local schoolchildren. Sufficiently far off the tourist trail to be worth a look. Admission is free. Nearest bus stop: Waratenjin-mae.
* Ryōan-ji (竜安寺). Famous for its Zen garden, which is considered to be one of the most notable examples of the "dry-landscape" style. Surrounded by low walls, an austere arrangement of fifteen rocks sits on a bed of white gravel. That's it: no trees, no hills, no ponds, and no trickling water. Behind the simple temple that overlooks the rock garden is a stone washbasin called Tsukubai said to have been contributed by Tokugawa Mitsukuni in the 17th century. It bears a simple but profound four-character inscription: "I learn only to be contented". There is a fantastic boiled tofu (湯豆腐 yudōfu) restaurant on the grounds, which you should be able to find by following the route away from the rock garden and towards the exit. It is slightly expensive, but serves delicious, traditional tofu dishes. The rest of the grounds are worth a look too - particularly the large pond. Open daily 8am-5pm (Mar-Nov), 8.30am-4.30pm (Dec-Feb). Admission ¥500. Nearest bus stop: Ryōanji-mae.
* Ninnaji (仁和寺). Another large temple complex which is often overlooked by tourists. Admission to the grounds is free, allowing visitors to view the 17th century five-storey pagoda, and the plantation of dwarf cherry trees (which are always the last to bloom in Kyoto, in early-mid April). However, visitors shouldn't miss the temple itself, which demands an admission fee of ¥500, and features some beautifully painted screen walls, and a beautiful walled garden. In the hills behind the temple, there is a delightful miniature version of the renowned 88 Temple Pilgrimage in Shikoku, which takes an hour or two (rather than a month or two). This can provide a delightful end to a day of looking at tourist attractions. Open daily 9am-4.30pm. Nearest bus stop: Omuro Ninnaji.
* Jingoji (神護寺). An overlooked gem among Kyoto temples, it is an ideal place to visit for those wanting to escape the tourist hordes. It is located in Mt. Takao in the north-western corner of Kyoto. In front of Kyoto Station, take JR Bus bound for Takao/Keihoku and get off at Yamashiro Takao Station (free with JR Pass), walk down a flight of winding stairs, cross a small bridge, and walk up for about ten minutes. Make sure you walk all the way to the back of the temple ground to a commanding view of the Kiyotaki River below wedged between two hills; here you can buy clay disks, which you throw down the mountain after making a wish. The temple is especially lovely in the fall, when the leaves all turn colors. Admission fee: 500 yen. Open: 9AM-4PM.
[edit] Western Kyoto
A walk through the bamboo forest, Arashiyama, Western Kyoto
The Arashiyama (嵐山) area to the west of the city is dismissed in most Western guidebooks in a brief paragraph suggesting "other attractions". However, the area is rightfully very popular with Japanese tourists, and is well worth a visit. To get here, take the JR Sagano line from Kyoto station to Saga Arashiyama, or take the Hankyu Line from the city center to Katsura, and change to the Hankyu Arashiyama Line.
* The walk through a forest of bamboo to Nonomiya Shrine and Okochi Sanso (a traditional house, previously occupied by a Japanese silent screen legend), is a real highlight of a visit to Kyoto. No admission fee for the shrine, ¥1000 for Okochi Sanso (price includes a cup of matcha, traditional Japanese tea, in the tea garden).
* Feeding the macaque monkeys atop the mountain in Iwatayama Monkey Park, to the south of the river, is worth the entrance fee (and the demanding climb!). Don't bring food up with you, though - peanuts are on sale inside the shack on top of the mountains, and the monkeys are well aware of it. There's a pond next to the shack, and the monkeys seem particularly fond of the keeper's motorcycle, which is usually parked there. There's ¥500 admission fee to enter the park; peanuts cost extra, but you know the monkeys appreciate it.
* Just outside Saga Arashiyama station is the 19th Century Hall - a museum covering the unlikely combination of steam locomotives and pianos. Probably best to look at it from the outside, and listen to the amusing tinny music it blasts out.
* The picture-esque Togetsukyo Bridge spans the Hozu River, which usually has at least a bit of water in it. If you're interested in a cruise down the river, you won't have to look far - small and large boats, both rowed and motored, are waiting on either side of the river. Be sure to confirm how far and how long the trip goes, though. Some are as long as two hours, and others will do a quick turnaround in less then twenty minutes.
* Tenryu-ji (8:30am-5:30pm Mar-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Feb; admission ¥600) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the main temple of the Rinzai sect of Buddhism in Kyoto; it's also considered one of Kyoto's Five Great Zen Temples. Tenryu-ji was founded in 1334, but the current buildings all date from the last century - pleasant, but unremarkable. However, there is a lovely garden and pond, designed by the Zen master Musō Soseki, that is worth a look. The main gate is just beyond the busy intersection with the Togestu-kyo bridge.
Sharing a cup at Otagi Nenbutsu-ji
* Otagi Nenbutsu-ji is omitted from virtually all guidebooks, but it's one of the true unknown gems of Kyoto. It was founded in the eighth century, and went through an unlucky patch for a millennium or so; by turns it was destroyed by flood, fire and typhoon, and had to move location a few times. Today, it sits in seclusion, far away from anything else. Two fierce statues guard the entrance. Once you're through the gate, though, you'll find over 1200 small (knee-to-waist high) statues, each with its own unique character - you'll see a cheerful boxer near the entrance, but you could spend hours checking out the rest, and you'll do it in relative seclusion, since this is well away from the tourist trail. The statues were carved in 1981 by amateurs under the direction of master sculptor Kocho Nishimura. Moss and forest have begun to reclaim the area, and if you've ever wondered what Angkor Wat would look like crossed with Japanese kawaii, this is your chance. By bus, take #72 from Kyoto station to Otagidera-Mae, or within Arashiyama, catch #62 or #72.
[edit] Central Kyoto
* Nijō Castle (二条城). Certainly one of the highlights of Kyoto. The series of ornately-decorated reception rooms within the Ninomaru complex is particularly impressive, and known for its "nightingale floors" - wooden flooring which makes bird-like squeaking sounds when stepped on. From the donjon of the inner castle, you can get good views over the castle layout, and the rest of the city. Open daily, 8.45am-5pm, with last admission at 4pm. Admission ¥600. Nearest bus stop: Nijojo-mae. Nearest subway station: Nijojo-mae.
* The Imperial Park is a large, peaceful area in the centre of Kyoto, centred around the Imperial Palace. The Palace itself is only open to visitors on pre-booked guided tours - English tours take place at 10am and 2pm Monday-Friday, and bookings must be made at the Imperial Household Agency, located to the west of the palace complex. The Palace is a reconstruction, though, and the Emperor doesn't actually spend much time there; don't consider it a priority. However, if you're in Kyoto for an extended amount of time, the park can make for a very pleasant afternoon, and it's large enough to let you forget the noise of the city outside the walls. It's home to 50,000 trees, including cherry, plum and peach tree orchards.
* The Museum of Kyoto is particularly worthwhile if you have a burning interest in ancient pottery, otherwise not really worth a visit. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. Admission ¥500. Located on Takakura-dori. Nearest bus stop: Shijo Karasuma. Nearest subway station: Karasuma Oike.
* Higashi and Nishi Honganji Temple are currently under construction, which is expected to be completed in 2008. The majestic main hall of Higashi Honganji, said to be the largest wooden structure in the world, can accomodate up to 5,000 people and is the headquarter of the Shinju Sect of Buddhism. From Kyoto Station, Higashi Honganji is a five-minute walk; Nishi Honganji, a 15-minute walk.
* Toji Temple is an oasis of calm near central Kyoto. Its pagoda is the tallest wooden structure in Japan. There are also flea markets at various times of the month.
* Kyoto Tower, just north of Kyoto Station, [6]. A sightseeing tower that provides views of Kyoto's urban sprawl. Open from 9 AM to 9 PM, adults ¥600.
[edit] Eastern Kyoto
Picturesque street near Kiyomizu Temple
Some of the most picturesque parts of Kyoto are located in the eastern region of the city, across the Kamo River. Visiting the main tourist attractions of eastern Kyoto will fill a full day - a suggested itinerary is to work north from Kiyomizu-dera to Ginkakuji, passing through Gion, and visiting Yasaka Shrine and Nanzenji before following the Philosopher's Walk to Ginkakuji.
* Kiyomizu-dera (清水寺). This temple complex, with a spectacular location overlooking the city, is a deservedly popular attraction, approached by either of two tourist-filled souvenir-shop-lined streets, Kiyomizu-zaka or Chawan-zaka. Admission ¥300. Open daily, 6am-6pm. Nearest bus stop: Kiyomizu-michi or Gojo-zaka. Highlights of the temple complex include;
o The main hall's wooden veranda, supported by hundreds of pillars and offering incredible views over the city,
o Jishu-jinja, the love-themed shrine selling countless charms to help you snag the one you love, and featuring two "love stones" positioned around 18m apart which the lovelorn must walk between with eyes closed to confirm their loved one's affection, and
o Otowa-no-taki the temple's waterfall, which gives it its name (Kiyomizu literally means 'pure water'). Visitors stand beneath the waterfall, and collect water to drink by holding out little tin cups.
o mountain hike If you're up for a mountain walk, steer to the right-hand pathway instead of taking the left toward the Jishu-jinja. The path leads through a gate and winds up onto the mountain. You can walk up for a good hour and not reach the end of the path. Has lovely forest and great scenery, and makes for a nice short excursion out of the city traffic.
* Gion district (祇園). The flagstone-paved streets and traditional buildings of the Gion district, located to the north-west of Kiyomizu, are where you're most likely to see geisha in Kyoto, scurrying between buildings or slipping into a taxi. The area just to the north of Shijo-dori, to the west of Yasaka Shrine, is particularly photogenic - particularly around Shinbashi-dori and Hanami-koji. Sannen-zaka ("three-year-slope") and Ninen-zaka ("two-year-slope"), two stepped streets leading off from Kiyomizu-zaka, are also very picturesque - but watch your step, slipping over on these streets brings three or two years' bad luck respectively. At the northern end of Ninen-zaka is Ryozen Kannon, a memorial to the unknown Japanese soldiers who died in World War II, with a 24-meter-tall statue of Kannon. Admission is ¥200, including a lit incense stick to place in front of the shrine.
* Yasaka Shrine at the eastern end of Shijo-dori, at the edge of Gion, is the shrine responsible for Kyoto's main festival - the Gion Matsuri, which takes place in July. The shrine is small in comparison with many in Kyoto, but it boasts an impressive display of lanterns. Admission is free. Nearest bus stop: Gion.
* Maruyama Park is the main center for cherry blossom viewing in Kyoto, and can get extremely crowded at that time of year. The park's star attraction is a weeping cherry tree (shidarezakura). Main entrance to the park is through Yasaka Shrine. Admission is free.
* Nanzenji, with its distinctive two-storey entrance gate (sanmon) and aqueduct, is another popular temple in Kyoto, but its larger size means that it doesn't seem as crowded as many of the others. Nearest bus stop: Nanzenji, Eikando-michi. Nearest subway station: Keage. Open daily, 8.30am-5pm. Walking around the temple complex and along the aqueduct is free, but there are three regions of Nanzenji that you can pay to enter;
o Sanmon - the two-storey main gate to Nanzenji Temple charges ¥500 for admission, and offers pleasant views over the surrounding area of the city.
o Nanzen-in Zen Temple - a small, but relaxing temple and moss garden behind the aqueduct, dating back to the 13th century, charges ¥300 for admission, and is probably only worth it if you have a particular interest in Zen Buddhism.
o Hojo - the abbot's quarters, is a more interesting building, with a small raked gravel garden and some impressive paintings on the sliding doors of the buildings. Admission is ¥500.
* The Philosopher's Walk (哲学の道 tetsugaku-no-michi) is the name given to a 2km-long path through north-eastern Kyoto, along which a philosophy professor, Kitaro Nishida, used to frequently walk. It is a surprisingly pleasant and relaxing walk even today, though you will undoubtedly share it with more tourists than Kitaro did. The walk runs south from Ginkakuji beside an aqueduct to Nyakuoji Shrine, many guidebooks suggest that the walk continues further south from there to Nanzenji, but this southerly section of the walk is less consistently signposted. The route passes several temples en route, notably Honen-in, a beautiful secluded temple with a thatched gate. Suggested route for the walk and surrounding area.
* Ginkakuji (銀閣寺, the Silver Pavilion) is at the northern end of the Philosopher's Walk. Much like its golden counterpart at Kinkakuji, the Silver Pavilion is often choked with tourists, shuffling past a scrupulously-maintained dry landscape Zen garden and the surrounding moss garden, before posing for pictures in front of the Pavilion across a pond. Unlike its counterpart, however, the Silver Pavilion was never actually covered in silver; only the name had been applied before the plans fell apart. Be sure not to miss the display of Very Important Mosses! Admission ¥500. Nearest bus stop: Ginkakuji-michi.
* Mt. Daimonji isn't much more than a hill, but it provides a breathtaking (and perhaps the best) view of the city. So if you're in the mood for a hike, this is a pleasant forest walk, taking a little less than an hour. At the summit, you can take a breather and check out the views over the city, or climb the steps and keep hiking through the forest at the top for hours, as long as you don't mind winding up far away from where you started. There's a clearly marked path up the mountain that begins near Ginkakuji. To reach the trailhead, turn left at the gates of Ginkakuji, and, before the stone torii (the iconic gate found throughout Japan), turn right and follow the path upwards. You'll soon be greeted with a map of the hill. If you don't know Japanese, don't worry, just follow everyone up the very-obvious path to the summit.
Back near Kiyomizu-dera and further to the southeast, along the Kamo River, are a few more sights:
* Sanjusangen-do is definitely worth a visit. It was founded in 1164 and became famous for its 1001 beautiful wooden and gold-leaf covered statues of Kannon, goddess of mercy, housed in thirty-three bays (sanjusan = thirty-three, gendo = bays) in the main hall.
* Kyoto National Museum [7] (9:30am - 5:00pm, closed Mondays; admission ¥500) is near Sanjusangen-do, and has a large collection of ancient Japanese sculpture, ceramics, metalwork, painting, and other artifacts. (It's quite similar to the Tokyo National Museum in Tokyo/Ueno.) The Museum building is fairly grand, but the statue of Rodin's The Thinker out front is a bit out of place, as there's no Western art inside. It's seven minutes east of Shichijo Keihan.
[edit] Southern Kyoto
The torii at Fushimi-Inari-taisha
Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社 Fushimi-Inari-taisha). Another of Kyoto's often-overlooked jewels, about twenty-minutes to the south of Kyoto. Dedicated to Inari, the Japanese fox goddess, Fushimi-Inari-taisha is the head shrine (taisha) for 40,000 Inari shrines across Japan. Stretching 230 meters up the hill behind it are hundreds of bright red torii (gates). A visitor could easily spend several hours walking up the hillside, taking in the beautiful views of the city of Kyoto and walking through the torii, which appear luminescent in the late afternoon sun. Countless stone foxes, also referred to as Inari, are also dotted along the path.
Approaching the shrine, local delicacies are sold at the roadside, including barbecued sparrow and inari-sushi (sweetened sushi rice wrapped in fried tofu), which is said to be the favourite food of the fox. Watch your fingers as you go - the fox spirits are said to be able to possess people by slipping through their fingernails.
Admission is free. From the city center, take the Keihan line to the Fushimi Inari station, and the foxes will point you in the right direction.. Be warned, the shrine is located close to Fushimi Inari and Inari stations, but is nowhere near Fushimi station! You can also take the JR Nara line from Kyoto station to Inari station, which exits immediately opposite the entrance to the shrine. When you are done walking the entire path, you have to walk through residential streets to get back to the train station; if you get lost, listening for and walking toward the sound of the trains will help guide you there.
Fushimi Castle was a favorite of Toyotomo Hideyoshi. The original was dismantled in 1623, but a 1964 reconstruction went up in its memory with a small museum and gold-lined tea room.
Tofuku-ji To get there, get off on the way to Fushimi-inari shrine at Tofuku-ji station. Large temple complex with many small and beautiful gardens nearby. Famous for its garden, especially in the fall when the leaves turn into all shades from green to red. Not on the top-list of most of western tourists, so especially worth visiting during fall.
Video game giant Nintendo has its world headquarters in southern Kyoto. Sad to say, tours are not offered, and visitors are unlikely even to make it into the lobby; the best you'll be able to do is pose for a photo with the company logo on the plaza in front of the otherwise anonymous building.
A highly-recommended walking tour is the "Walk in Kyoto, Talk in English" tour (16/over ¥2000; 13-15 ¥1000; under 13 free; no reservations, cash only). The tour is given by Hajime Hirooka, better known to the tourists as Johnny Hillwalker. During the five-hour English-speaking tour, Hillwalker shows tourists a large Buddhist temple, a few Shinto shrines, and workshops in the back alleys of the city. The tour operates rain or shine on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays between March and November, excluding public holidays. Departure time is 10:15 AM sharp outside the main (north) entrance of Kyoto station. See Johnnie's Kyoto Walking for more information.
[edit] Buy
Currently, Kyoto is enjoying even more popularity than usual with Japanese tourists due to the success of Japanese TV broadcaster NHK's series 'Shinsengumi!' (新選組!), a historic drama following a group of samurai who kept peace in the city in the 1860s. Consequently, among the most popular souvenirs from the city at the moment are the distinctive blue and white happi (shirts) worn by this group.
There is a nice selection of reassuringly non-tacky traditional souvenir shops around Arashiyama station in Western Kyoto, selling fans and traditional sweets. More tacky stores can be found in Gion and the approach to Kiyomizu Temple, selling keyrings, cuddly toys, and garish ornaments. Other traditional souvenirs from Kyoto include parasols and carved wooden dolls.
A more unconventional but colorful (and relatively cheap) souvenir are the wooden votive tablets produced by temples, which bear an image relevant to the temple on the reverse. Visitors to the temples write their prayers on the tablets, and hang them up within the temple.
Manga and anime enthusiasts should visit Teramachi Street, a covered shopping street off the main Shijo-dori, which boasts a large manga store on two floors, as well as a two-story branch of Gamers (a chain of anime stores), and a small two-story anime and collectables store.
Many ATMs in Kyoto do not allow non-domestic credit cards to be used, but ATMs in post offices usually do, so if you find your card rejected or invalid in an ATM then try and get to a post office to use their ATMs instead. A rough guide is the mastercard symbol - if you see it then that machine will probably allow foreign cards to be used. Another option is Citibank, which should work, too. There is an old standby international ATM at the top floor of Takashimaya Department Store at Shijo/Kawaramachi in the "Cash Corner." The bank of ATMs in the basement of the Kyoto Tower shopping center (across the street from JR Kyoto Station) also includes one machine where international cards may be used.
* Gallery Gado 27 Miyashiki-cho Hirano, Kitaku (on Kinukake no Michi, near Kinkakuji). 075-464-1655. Open everyday, 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM. Gallery Gado sells modern woodblock prints (ukiyo-e) with traditional themes. The gallery also has catalogs of the work of artists who are maintaining this art form. All prints are authentic woodblock prints; postcard-sized prints are available for ¥800, medium-sized prints for ¥2000-3000, and large prints for a few ten thousand yen. [8]
[edit] Splurge
In the shopping areas adjacent to Kiyomizudera (on the other side of the Kamo River), it is possible to purchase samurai swords and top of the line kimono. Do not be surprised if the prices for either item exceed ¥3,000,000.
Kyoto incense is also famous. It usually has a very delicate yet fragrant bouquet. Fortunately, incense is much more agreeable in price (¥400-2000).
[edit] Eat
Seafood on offer in central Kyoto
If you've just stepped off the train and the first thing on your mind is a bite to eat, there are several restaurants on the tenth and eleventh floors of the Isetan department store attached to Kyoto station. Most of the offerings are Japanese, including a veritable Ramen village, with a few casual Italian cafes as well.
* Local specialties include: hamo (a white fish served with ume as sushi), tofu (try places around Nanzenji temple), suppon (an expensive turtle dish), vegetarian dishes (thanks to the abundance of temples), and kaiseki-ryori (multi-course chef's choice that can be extremely expensive).
[edit] Budget
* Musashi Sushi one of the oldest kaitenzushiya (conveyor belt sushi) restaurants in Kyoto, it is located directly across chain Kappa Sushi at the corner of Sanjo/Kawaramachi. All of the sushi is handmade, though it may take a while to see something new float by. Fortunately, the seats surround the chefs, so you can request whatever you want if you don't see something you like. Price: ¥120 per plate (usually 2 pieces per plate).
* Kappa Sushi is a chain kaitenzushiya (conveyor belt sushi) restaurant on the corner of Sanjo and Kawaramachi at the entrance to the Shinkyogoku/Teramachi covered mall. Lots of variety, but quality matching the price, this restaurant being the type to use machines to cut rice and fish. Price: ¥100 per plate (usually 2 pieces per plate).
* Kick-up Bar is a tiki-themed bar & grill outside the Keage Tozai line subway station and across from the Westin Miyako Hotel. They have the best meatball sandwich in Japan for ¥800 and loaded pizza made from homemade dough (medium for ¥1500)
* Santouka Ramen is a Hokkaido style ramen shop in the Sanjo-Keihan above-ground plaza & bus station. For about ¥900 they have excellent pork broth ramen. Don't forget the broth-boiled egg for ¥200. Look for the line outside.
* Mr. Young Men is a pleasantly grubby okonomiyaki restaurant downtown, at the corner of Shijo and the covered shopping street of Teramachi. Basic English menus are available. A basic dish of Osaka-style okonomiyaki will run about ¥800, although a few variations (including a bizarre cheese and potato version) are available for about the same price.
* Hati Hati is an Indonesian restaurant on Kiyamachi, near Takoyakushi. It has great food and atmosphere, but it's occasionally converted into a bar and a performance space for local bands and DJs at night on weekends. For really late night food on Kiyamachi, there is a cheap, open-air falafel cafe a couple doors down from Hati Hati that never seems to close.
[edit] Mid-range
* Kappa Sushi (on Pontocho) is a reasonably-priced (for fresh sushi) restaurant. They have an English menu which is, unfortunately, inferior to the Japanese menu. Specials change daily, but are generally on the pricey side. Sit at the sushi bar, and eat well-apportioned nigiri off of banana leaves with your fingers. Not a bad place to try real o-toro for ¥800 a plate.
* Cafe Rue Ribera is a new, very beautifully arranged and welcoming petit restaurant and bar that has just been open for a year. Opened by a very nice, welcoming woman who speaks very good English (having spent some time in England). Located just near Enmachi Station on the Sagano Line. Tel/Fax: 075-812-2351. Open 11:30am til 1:30am. Lunchtime 11:30am til 2:30pm. Closed Tuesdays.
* efish 798-1 Nishihashizume-cho 075-361-3069 (near the Idemetsu gas station, across the river from Keihan Gogo 京阪五条 station). 075-361-3069. Open every day, 11 AM to 11 PM (until 10 PM in the winter). This cafe, tucked away down a hidden side street, has a trendy ambiance and river views. For lunch, try the okra curry (¥850) or soup and bread set (¥650). [9]
* Siam (シャム）A tiny but wonderful Thai curry restaurant off Marutamachi-dori and near Nishioji-dori. The food is delicious; not too oily nor too thick, and spice levels are indicated on the menu. For 1000 Yen (about 10 USD) you can get salad, curry, and dessert such as fresh-made coconut pudding. Best of all is enjoying wonderful ambiance of a soft-lit room, decorated with lovely exotic paintings from Bali, listening to soothing music, while your wonderful meal is made right in front of you. Menu available in Japanese and English. (11:30-20:30)
* Fuka(麩嘉）Located west of the Imperial Palace and just a bit south of the Kyoto Prefectural Office, this old shop makes the best nama-fu (wheat gluten filled with sweet bean paste) in Kyoto and supplies many sweet shops and restaurants throughout the city. There might not be enough supplies to sell over the counter, so it is best to arrive early. Open: 9AM-5PM. Closed: Mondays
* Tengu A chain izakaya offering their own beer and good shared food with occasional seasonal specials. One is located underground with an entrance near the corner of Sanjo/Kawaramachi.
* Pontochō (先斗町) is a narrow lane running from Shijo-dori to Sanjo-dori, one block west of the Kamo River. One of Kyoto's most traditional nightlife districts, the restaurants here run the gamut for super-exclusive geisha houses to common yakitori bars. Many have pleasant open-air riverside terraces. Rule of thumb is, any establishment with a menu and prices outside is OK, but others are best skipped.
* Mishima-tei: If you have a yearning for sukiyaki, and your pockets are deep, you must visit Mishima-tei at the junction of Teramachi-dori and Sanjo-dori. Here you will be bowed in and shown to your own private tatami room by your personal kimono-clad hostess. There, having helped you to order, she will prepare your sukiyaki feast on the hotplate set between you. Order the "premium beef", and the richly marbled meat will just melt in your mouth, and require almost no chewing whatsoever: it is delectable – and it should be since two of you will spend around ¥25,000 in less than an hour on 360 grams of beef and a few vegetables! In the butchers shop attached to the restaurant this beef retails at ¥50,000 per kilogram, and you can have fun devising a fantasy barbecue for you and a half dozen close friends where you would grill thick-cut steaks of this meat, washed down with a couple of bottles of 1982 Lynch Bages, for the modest outlay of ¥175,000 – a pleasant way to pass a Sunday lunchtime.
[edit] Drink
Kiyamachi, between Shijo and Sanjo, is packed with drinking establishments. There are the inevitable hostess bars with tuxedo-ed touts pacing out front, but there are also plenty of pubs and block-buildings full of idiosyncratic one room bars as well. Near the Sanjo end, keep an eye out for Pretty Space, also known as "Mushroom Bar", and be sure to compliment the owner on committing to the theme with his haircut. Also on that end of Kiyamachi is Rub-a-Dub, a one-room reggae bar that can either be an over-crowded mess or a box of delirious fun, depending on which record is on (and how much you like Red Stripe).
A good start to the evening would be A-bar, a hard-to-find izakaya close to the Shijo/Kiyamachi corners. Food is good and reasonable - daily sashimi specials and fried goods, especially. You share long tables with foreigners and locals alike; a friendly thing to do would be to pour beers (¥550 Yebisu) for your neighbors and Suei-san, the proprietor.
Bar Africa - bland, but if there's a football match from home that you need to catch, they have cheap Asahi jugs. Also, their foosball table is very well kept. Across from the Hub, infra.
No night in Kyoto is complete without the requisite after hours visit to all-night Ing (a.k.a., "Box Bar," or "the office"). Proprietor Hako-san will keep bringing you big bottles of Sapporo (¥600 each shareable bottle), happy to join for a drink when offered. Food there is always an option - tofu salad & potato pizza are good for the price (¥600). Get ready for Rolling Stones, competitive Jenga, sharing tables with odd drunk people, and clothes permanently soaked in smoke. Good luck finding it. If you see Hamid's Falafel you're on the right track. Ing is on the second floor of a building slightly south of Hamid's.
The Fushimi district is known for its sake breweries; tours are available at Gekkeikan.
British style pubs:
* The Hub: on the small streets connecting Kiyamachi to Kawaramachi, lots of TVs for sports, cheap beer (¥700/pint) (especially with a ¥500 membership) and more expensive imports; food, however, is mediocre. This is basically the headquarters for English-speaking tourists and gaijin residents for happy hour. If you want some inside information about where to go, where to eat, what to see, etc., ask a group here. One of the larger bars in Kyoto, it is a popular spot for happy hours and goodbye parties. The real draw is the foosball, darts tournaments, and, upstairs in the back, the pool table.
* Pig & Whistle: underwent a renovation last year, adding a more stylish whiskey bar to its original drinks bar. This is a popular spot, located right above the Sanjo Keihan subway station. If you hear live music, go on up; though it probably won't be great music, it will draw a crowd. Food here is also mediocre.
* Tadg's Pub: a bit less convenient (second floor on the corner of Shijo and Kawabata-dori), but great portions of food. Steer clear from their stuffy events like poetry readings and open mics, but definitely go for rugby games.
* Hill of Tara: a quiet Irish-style pub with good food. A bit more expensive than the frozen stuff from the Pig or the Hub, but a much mellower scene. In the Spring and Summer, they have a nice, though small, second floor balcony.
* McLaughlin's: a new food-focused Irish restaurant located on Kiyamachi between Sanjo and Nijo. Food is pricier than the others, but more creative. Good quality beers unfortunately served in thimble-like goblets.
* Kick-Up Pub: across from the Westin Miyako Hotel, a gaijin-friendly tiki-themed bar with fresh Bass Ale pints (¥800) and ice cold Asahi mugs (¥600). Not a problem if alone because the proprietors, Masuyo and Rick, speak both Japanese and English and are up for a good chat. See the Budget Food section for food information.
Kyoto has a wide range of accommodation, much of it geared towards foreign visitors. During peak seasons, when accommodation is difficult to get, consider staying in Osaka. A thirty minute train ride from Kyoto Station to Osaka will cost you ¥540 one way.
[edit] Temple lodgings
Many temples in Kyoto own and run their own lodging complex known as shukubō (宿坊), usually located on or near temple grounds. The least known option of accommodation even among Japanese, shukubos are becoming popular with both Japanese and foreigners alike. Guests are often invited to participate in morning prayer service (otsutome) held at the temple. Unfortunately, most temple lodgings do not have English-speaking receptions, and curfews and check-in/out times tend to be strict.
* Myōren-ji Temple (妙蓮寺) - Three minutes by foot from Horikawa Teranouchi Stop on Bus # 9 and 12 (the former leaves from Kyoto Station, the latter, Shijo Karasuma Subway Station). Tel: 075-451-3527. Rate: ¥3,800 per person (including entrance fee to public bath). Facilities: in-room air-conditioner; no bath but a public bath is nearby; guests should bring their own bath towel and shampoo as the public bath only lends out mini-towels and soap. Check-in: 6pm; Check-out: 7 am.
* Hiden-in (悲田院）－ in southern Kyoto near Fushimi Inari Shrine and Tofuku-ji Temple, 15 minutes by foot from Sennyuji-michi Stop on Bus # 202, 207, 208. Tel: 075-561-8781. Rate: ¥4,500 per person with breakfast. Facilities: rooms are separated by sliding doors only; maximum capacity: 20; one shared bath. Check-in: 4pm; Check-out: 10am.
* Rokuō-in（鹿王院） - near Arashiyama, six minutes by foot from Saga-Arashiyama Station on the JR Sagano Line. Only for female visitors. Tel: 075-861-1645. Rate: ¥4,500 per person with breakfast. Facilities: 10 rooms with a maximum capacity of 30; during peak season, guests travelling alone may be asked to share a room with another single guest; towels not provided; one bath. Crowded during autumn foliage season. Curfew at 7:30pm.
* Myōshin-ji Daishin-in（妙心寺大心院）- 10 minutes by foot from Hanazono Station on JR Sagano Line or 7 minutes by foot from Myoshin-ji Mae Stop on Bus # 8, 10, 26. Tel: 075-461-5714. Rate: ¥4,700 with breakfast. Facilities: 10 rooms with a maximum capacity of 50; in-room air-conditioner, kotatsu heating table in winter, shared bath and toilet. Lights out at 10pm.
* Myōshin-ji Tōrin-in（妙心寺東林院） - 10 minutes by foot from Hanazono Station on JR Sagano Line or 7 minutes by foot from Myoshin-ji Mae Stop on Bus # 8, 10, 26. Tel: 075-463-1334. Only accept reservations from foreigners if they are with a Japanese person. Rate: ¥4,700 with breakfast; ¥6,000 with breakfast and dinner; Shojin meal (Buddhist vegetarian)¥3,000 - ¥8,000; Shojin cooking class ¥3,000. Facilities: 10 rooms with a maximum capacity of 40; shared bath. Curfew at 9pm. Lights out at 10pm.
[edit] Other
* Bakpak Kyoto Hostel. Located in central downtown Kyoto between Kawaramachi and Gion, next to the Minamiza theatre. Rates from $20/night.Tel : + 81- 75 – 525 - 3144 [10]
* Budget Inn (near Nishi-Honganji, 7 min walk from Kyoto Station) [11]. A new, clean hostel owned by the same people as Tour Club. Both dorm and private rooms available. No curfew.
* Gojo Guest House (5 min walk from Keihan Gojo Station) [12]. A Japanese style hostel with a cozy cafe located in Higashiyama area.
* Hirano's B&B Kyoto (3 minute walk from the Karasuma-Oike subway station) [13]. A quiet and intimate B&B, near Nijo Castle. Guests experience being at home with a Japanese family.
* Ikoi-no-Ie [14] A Japanese-style guesthouse with all rooms private, no smoking (some are en-suite). Located right in the middle between Kyoto Station and the downtown (12 and 15 minute walk respectively). Bus stops and an underground/subway station for most Kyoto sightseeing spots nearby. Newly opened in February 2007.
* J-Hoppers Kyoto Guesthouse (8 min walk from Kyoto Station) [15]. A new and clean backpackers hostel guesthouse. 7 minutes walk from Kyoto central station. Dormitory bed 2,500 yen including tax. Rental bike 500 yen/day, Internet 300 yen/hour, No curfew, Up-to-date local information by native staff, managed by a trans-continental motorcyclist. TEL +81-75-681-2282, SKYPE:jhoppers
* K's House Kyoto, 418 Nayacho, Shichijo-agaru, Dotemachi-dori, Shimogyo-ku, (9 min walk from JR Kyoto Station, 4 min. walk from Keihan Line Shichijo Station) 075-342-2444 (fax 075-342-2440, email info@kshouse.jp), [16]. Opened in November 2003, this foreigner-friendly hostel has received favorable reviews for reasonable prices, cleanliness and amenities like Internet access and kitchens. English-speaking staff. Dormitory room ¥2500, twin/double/triple room from ¥2900, single room from ¥3500 (prices per person). The hostel itself can be difficult to find, as it is located down a narrow street off the main road.
* Kyoto Cheapest Inn [17] (Near Nijo castle, 1-3 min walk from bus stop Horikawa Marutamachi & Marutamachi Chiekoin) Claims to offer the cheapest accommodation in Kyoto. ¥900-2,000 (dormitory), ¥6,800 (private ensuite). Credit cards accepted, English available.
* Palace Side Hotel [18] is exactly where the name suggests: across the street from the Kyoto Imperial Palace and park, on Karasuma (near the intersection with Marutamachi). It's a Western-style hotel reminiscent of a much more expensive hotel that could use a good scrubbing. The staff speak fluent English, and the front desk is always open, as are computers with internet access in the lobby. It's often used by academic groups from nearby universities, though, so advance reservations should be made. There are discounts for stays of three or more days. S/D/Tw/Tr from ¥5040 - ¥10,500.
* Ryokan Hiraiwa (旅館平岩). Tel. 075-351-6748. [19]. A self-proclaimed ryokan (really a minshuku) catering almost entirely to the foreign market, in an old Japanese house plastered with English signs, warnings and tips. All rooms Japanese style. Traditional breakfast extra. Internet. Shared bathrooms, public bath half a block away. But it's cheap (¥4200 for a single, ¥8400 for a double, breakfast not included) and reasonably friendly. Slightly inconveniently located halfway between the station and the center of town (it's bit of a hike to either), take bus #17 or #205* from Kyoto Station pier A2 to Kawaramachi-Shomen (the third stop).
* Station Ryokan Seiki (5 min walk from Kyoto Station) [20]. Small but convenient. Doubles ¥9000.
* Tour Club (10 min walk from Kyoto Station) [21]. A friendly, clean hostel with both dorm and private rooms. The dorms have a 11pm curfew.
* Tani House (near Daitokuji). A 70-year-old traditional wooden house, a little shabby but cheap, mixed guests, from ¥1700 a night and you can rent cheap bicycles.
[edit] Midrange
* Gimmond Hotel Takakura-Oike-dori, Nakagyo-ku (2 min. walk from Karasuma-Oike subway station), 075-221-4111 (fax 075-221-8250, email kyoto@gimmond.co.jp). [22] A foreigner-friendly hotel, neat and tidy and good location. Discount for internet booking.
* Ryokan Shimizu 644 Wakamiya Agaru Shichijo, Shimogyo-ku (7 minute walk from JR Kyoto Station), Tel 075-371-5538, Fax 075-371-5539. [23] A modern style ryokan which is welcoming to foreign visitors. The owners are able to speak some English. En-suite facilities are provided and a Japanese style breakfast is available. There is a communal Japanese bath facility.
* Kyoto Tower Hotel Karasuma-dori Shichijo- sagaru. Shimogyo-ku (1 Minute walk from JR Kyoto Station, across the street), Tel 075-361-3212, Fax 075-343-5645. [24] Foreigner-friendly hotel, single rooms start at ¥8700, but the location across the street from JR Kyoto Station is unbeatable.
* The Kyoto Tower Hotel chain also operates the Kyoto Tower Hotel Annex, northwest of the station, and the Kyoto Dai-Ni Tower Hotel, east of the station. Singles at both of these hotels, which are a few minutes further away by foot from the Kyoto Tower Hotel, start at just ¥6500.
* Hearton Hotel Kyoto [25] Higashi no Toin Dori Oike Agaru, Nakagyo Ku, Tel 81-75-222-1300 Fax 81-75-222-1313. Mid range hotel close to Oike Karasuma Subway Station.
* New Miyako Hotel (新都ホテル). 0120-333-001[26] The largest hotel in Kyoto with over 700 rooms, and the prices to match: starting at ¥10,000 for singles and ¥21,000 for doubles. But the location is unbeatable, it's just across the street and a few minutes' walk south of Kyoto station. If you get a room facing north, you'll be able to see the bullet trains coming into and out of the station, as well as the glass windows from the exterior of the Isetan department store that seem to reflect the sky if the weather conditions are just right. The new south wing opened in late September of 2005, with prices starting from ¥29,000 for doubles.
* Kyoto Hotel Okura, Kawaramachi-Oike, Nakagyo-ku. Tel:+81 75 211-5111. Fax:+81 75 254-2529. A large, modern and conveniently located hotel.
* The Westin Miyako Kyoto. 075-771-7111 Keage, Sanjo, Higashiyama-ku. [27] Established in 1890, this is the oldest Western-style hotel in Kyoto. It has over 400 rooms, starting at ¥33,000 for twins. (If you make a reservation through a travel agency, you may get a lower price.) It has about 30,000 square meters, and a few Japanese gardens, one of which,Aoiden (葵殿庭園) was built by Jihei Ogawa (小川治兵衛). The gardens can be visited by non-guests. It's near Keage Station (subway - Tozai Line), or you can take a shuttle bus from JR Kyoto Station.
* Hyatt Regency Kyoto. 075-5411-3180 644-2 Sanjusangendo-mawari, Higashiyama-ku. [28] yen;34,650 for twin room. Near Hichi-jo station (七条駅）on the Keihan line, or you can take shuttle bus from JR Kyoto station.
[edit] Get out
* Amanohashidate - literally "the bridge to heaven", it is considered one of Japan's top three scenic view (along with Matsushima in Miyagi prefecture and Miyajima in Hiroshima prefecture). It forms a thin strip of land straddling the Miyazu Bay in northern Kyoto Prefecture, hence the name. Visitors are asked to turn their backs toward the view, bend over, and look at it between their legs.
* Himeji - about an hour by Shinkansen west of Kyoto, Himeji boasts a spectacular traditional castle.
* Miho Museum [29] - an hour southeast of Kyoto deep in the hills of Shiga prefecture. Building designed by I.M. Pei. Closed in winter.
* Mount Hiei - an ancient hilltop temple complex that traditionally guarded (and occasionally raided) Kyoto.
* Nara - less than an hour's journey by train on the JR Nara line from Kyoto station, this former capital has several temples and tame deer.
* Osaka - about half an hour from Kyoto by JR rapid train, this bustling city offers more retail opportunities and a central castle.
* Uji - the best tea in Japan and the Byodo-in temple.
* Kurama - less than an hour's journey by a local train from Kyoto Demachi-Yanagi station, small village of Kurama has real onsen (Japanese natural hot spring).
written by  garisti on April 1, 2008 from Kyoto, Japan

Osaka, Japan
Ōsaka (大阪) is the third largest city in Japan, the central metropolis of the Kansai region and the largest of the Osaka-Kobe-Kyoto trio.
Districts
Osaka and the "808 Bridges" (八百八)
Many districts in Osaka derive their names from the Tokugawa-era bridges that were built during the city's reign as transportation hub for the country. Today, Yodoyabashi (淀屋橋) and Kyobashi (京橋) still retain their crossings, while the bridges in Yotsubashi (四ツ橋), Nagahoribashi (長堀橋）and Shinsaibashi (心斎橋) are long gone.
橋 (hashi, often pronounced -bashi, when affixed to a preceding name) is the kanji character meaning 'bridge'.
"Osaka" can mean either the larger Osaka prefecture (大阪府 Ōsaka-fu), covered in a separate guide, or central Osaka city (大阪市 Ōsaka-shi), the topic of this guide. The city is administratively divided into 24 wards (区 ku), but in common usage the following divisions are more useful:
* Kita (キタ, "north") — the newer center of the city, including the Kita ward (北区). Umeda (梅田) is the main terminal. Department stores, theaters and boutiques are clustered around JR Osaka Station and Umeda Station, which serves several city and private railways.
* Minami (ミナミ, "south") — the traditional commercial and cultural center, composed of the Chuo (中央区) and Naniwa (浪速区) wards. Namba (なんば, 難波) is the main railway station, and the surrounding area has the department store and showy shopping. Shinsaibashi (心斎橋) and Horie (堀江) is the fashion area. Dōtonbori (道頓堀) is the best place to go for a bite to eat.
* Semba (船場) straddles the line between Kita and Minami, and contains the business districts of Yodoyabashi (淀屋橋), Kitahama (北浜), Doujima (堂島) and Hommachi (本町).
* Tennōji (天王寺) or Abeno (アベノ, あべの, 阿倍野) — generally means the area around JR Tennōji Station and Abeno Station of subway and Kintetsu lines, located at south end of Tennōji ward. The ward was named after the historical Shitennoji temple. Tennōji Park and Zoo are in the area. To the west of Tennōji is Shinsekai (新世界), which was an amusement area in the past and has now become quite seedy.
Other important places include:
* Kyōbashi (京橋) — northeast of Osaka Castle, home to Osaka Business Park (OBP).
* Shin-Osaka (新大阪) — Shin-Osaka Station (the shinkansen and airport express stop)
[edit] Understand
If Tokyo is Japan's capital, one might call Osaka its anti-capital. With what you will call it so, however, is left much open to your own findings upon the visit to the city. Veiled much with a commercial-centric city touch, you may as well start from picking up the lively intonation of Osaka dialect, heard from the people as you ride on the escalators standing on the right, instead of the left in Tokyo; then discovering the contrast of popular food to eastern Japan, as you look for places to lunch. The deeper you get inside, and at the end of your stay, it is not completely impossible that you may have compiled your own original list of reasons covering from history, culture, sports, to business.
Osaka dates back to the Asuka and Nara period. Under the name Naniwa (難波), it was the capital of Japan from 683 to 745, long before the upstarts at Kyoto took over. Even after the capital was moved elsewhere, Osaka continued to play an important role as a hub for land, sea and river-canal transportation. (See "808 Bridges" infobox.) During the Tokugawa era, while Edo (now Tokyo) served as the austere seat of military power and Kyoto was the home of the Imperial court and its effete courtiers, Osaka served as "the Nation's Kitchen" (「天下の台所」 tenka-no-daidokoro), the collection and distribution point for rice, the most important measure of wealth. Hence it was also the city where merchants made and lost fortunes and received repeated cheerfully ignored warnings from the shogunate to reduce their conspicuous consumption.
During Meiji era, Osaka's fearless entrepreneurs took the lead in industrial development, making it the equivalent of Manchester in the U.K. A thorough drubbing in World War 2 left little evidence of this glorious past — even the castle is a ferroconcrete reconstruction — but to this day, while unappealing and gruff on the surface, Osaka remains Japan's best place to eat, drink and party, and in legend (if not in practice) Osakans still greet each other with mōkarimakka?, "are you making money?".
[edit] By plane
The main international gateway to Osaka is Kansai International Airport (ICAO: KIX), covered in a separate article. Domestic flights, however, some arrive at Osaka International Airport, more commonly called Itami Airport (ICAO: ITM), which despite the name hasn't had a single international flight since 1994. Itami is connected to the Osaka Monorail, but the monorail is expensive and traces an arc around the northern suburbs, so to get to the centre of the city you will need to transfer to a suburban Hankyu railway line. A more convenient option for most are the Airport Limousine Buses [1], which run frequently from Itami to various locations within Osaka and elsewhere in the region (including Kansai Airport), with fares starting around ¥500-600.
Tokaido and Sanyo Shinkansen (新幹線） trains arrive at Shin-Osaka station, to the north of the city center. From Shin-Osaka, you can connect to the city center by using the Midosuji subway line, or connect to the local JR network for other destinations.
* From Tokyo, Nozomi (のぞみ) trains cover the one way ride in about 2 1/4 hours (¥14050); Hikari (ひかり) trains take about 3 hours (¥13750). With the Japan Rail Pass, there is no charge to take the Shinkansen if you use the Hikari service.
* From points west of Osaka, Nozomi trains run from Okayama (¥6060, 45 mins), Hiroshima (¥10150, 80 mins) and Hakata station in Fukuoka (¥14890, 2 1/4 hours). Japan Rail Pass holders can use the Hikari Rail Star (ひかりレールスター) service instead, which runs at a comparable speed to the Nozomi and makes a few more stops, but its trains are shorter (8 car trains, compared to 16 cars on the Nozomi).
* Slower Kodama (こだま) trains connect the rest of the stations on the Shinkansen route.
If travelling from the east without a rail pass, you can take advantage of the Puratto Kodama Ticket (in Japanese). This ticket offers a discount for the all-stopping Kodama services if you purchase at least one day in advance. You get a reserved seat and a free drink on board. With this ticket a trip from Tokyo to Shin-Osaka costs ¥10000 (a savings of about ¥4000) and takes four hours. Note that there is only one Kodama service per hour from Tokyo, and a few early-morning Kodama trains cannot be used with this ticket.
Several overnight trains make runs to and from the main Osaka Station. Of note are the Ginga (銀河) which runs daily to Tokyo, the Twilight Express (トワイライトエクスプレス) which runs into Hokkaido and terminates at Sapporo, and the Nihonkai (日本海) trains which run to Aomori in northern Tohoku.
During University holidays there are some additional overnight services to Matsuyama, Kochi and Fukuoka. As these are considered rapid services they can be very economical to use if you use a Seishun 18 Ticket.
There are many regional railway lines connecting Osaka to nearby cities:
* From Kyoto, JR offers fast, but slightly more expensive, shin-kaisoku (special rapid) trains to Osaka Station. The cheaper but slower alternative is the Hankyu Railway's limited express service. Both lines terminate in the Umeda area of Osaka. Keihan Railway offers Kyoto-Osaka trains. The Yodoyabashi terminal in Osaka does not connect directly with JR, but it is possible to transfer to the JR Osaka Loop Line at Kyobashi.
In Kyoto, Keihan and Hankyu trains do not connect with JR Kyoto station but both travel to stations which are more convenient for reaching the centre of the city. about 30 - 45 minutes.
* From Kobe, JR again offers slightly faster and slightly more expensive service than Hankyu. The third choice is Hanshin Railway, which is identical to Hankyu in terms of cost and similar in time, useful for getting to Koshien Stadium to see Hanshin Tigers games. All three lines go to Osaka / Umeda. about 20 minutets.
* From Nara, JR offers trains to Tennōji and Osaka Stations, and Kintetsu offers trains to Namba. Kintetsu station in Nara is closer to Tōdaiji and Nara Park. about 35 - 45 minutets.
* From Nagoya, an alternative to the Shinkansen is Kintetsu's premium limited express service, the Urban Liner (アーバンライナー) which goes directly to Namba. Trip times are as little as two hours each way, with departures at 0 and 30 minutes past the hour at a cost of ¥4150. In comparison, the shinkansen takes just under an hour for ¥5670.
Stations with the same name but belonging to different railway companies are sometimes very far apart. For example, the Nakatsu stations on the Hankyu and subway networks are about an hour's walk from each other, even though they look close on the railway map. Allow up to half an hour for walking between the various Umeda stations and about the same for the various Namba stations, especially if you are a first time visitor. In Kobe the Sannomiya stations belonging to JR and Hankyu are connected but Hanshin Sannomiya is across a street.
[edit] By car
It is generally a bad idea to use a private automobile to visit Osaka. Many streets do not have names, signs are usually only in Japanese, parking fees are astronomical, and Japan is a left-side drive country which may be frustrating for visitors from right-side drive countries.
As Osaka is a major city, there are many daytime and overnight buses which run between Osaka and other locations throughout Japan, which can result in significant savings when compared to shinkansen fares.
The JR Bus Group (Japanese Website) is a major operator of the routes from the Tokyo area to Kansai. Buses operate via the Tomei Expressway (to/from Tokyo Station) or the Chuo Expressway (to/from Shinjuku Station). You can receive a discount of between 10 and 35 percent off the cost of the ticket if reservations are made at least 21 days in advance on most routes.
Other bus companies offer trips between Tokyo and Osaka, but it should be pointed out that seat reservations for JR Buses can be made in train stations at the same "Midori-no-Madoguchi" ticket windows used to reserve seats on trains. Moreover, the Japan Rail Pass is valid on ALL JR buses operating from the Tokyo area to Osaka. (Note that the pass is NOT valid on buses to/from Yokohama.)
From Tokyo, buses run to and from Osaka in approximately 8 1/2 hours. Major bus locations are as follows:
* Tokyo: Tokyo Station Yaesu Exit (東京駅八重洲口), with a few buses discharging at the Nihombashi Exit (東京駅日本橋口)
* Shinjuku: Shinjuku Station New South Exit (新宿駅新南口)
* Osaka: Osaka Station Sakura-bashi Exit (大阪駅桜橋口)
The following services are available: (Current as of January, 2007)
[edit] Daytime buses from Tokyo
There are between six and eight daily departures on the Tomei Expressway in each direction. Buses from Tokyo Station depart at 7:10, 8:10, 9:10, 13:10 and 14:10. Return buses from Osaka Station depart hourly at 10 minutes past the hour from 6:10 to 9:10, and again at 14:10. There is also a 12:10 departure in either direction on Fridays, weekends and holidays.
Premium Buses, with added amenities described later in this article, depart from Tokyo and Osaka at 11:10 in either direction, with an additional 10:10 departure on Fridays, weekends and holidays.
There are two daily departures on the Chuo Expressway, departing at 9:40 and 11:40 in either direction.
There is also one daily departure from Yokohama to Osaka in each direction, leaving Yokohama station's east bus terminal at 10:30, and from Osaka at 10:50.
The runs cost ¥6000 one-way and ¥10000 round-trip. Premium buses incur an additional surcharge of ¥300 in either direction for second floor seating and ¥1300 in either direction for first floor seating. All buses are double-level and make rest stops en route.
[edit] Nighttime buses from Tokyo
The nighttime bus service from Tokyo to Kansai is called Dream. This route name has several variants.
* The Dream Osaka is a bus that runs from Tokyo Station to Osaka Station via the Tomei Expressway. There are two nightly departures from Tokyo at 22:10 and 23:50, with a third departure at 23:30 on Fridays, weekends and holidays. Returning buses leave from Osaka Station at 22:10 (Fridays, weekends and holidays only), 23:00 and 23:50. One bus continues to/from JR Namba and Tennoji stations.
* An additional Dream Osaka service leaves on Fridays, weekends and holidays from Tokyo Teleport and Shinagawa stations at 21:37 and 22:00 respectively. The return bus leaves Osaka at 21:50.
* The Ladies Dream Osaka is a special bus for women only, running from Tokyo Station to Osaka Station. The bus departs from Tokyo at 22:10, and departs from Osaka at 23:00.
* The Chuo Dream Osaka runs from Shinjuku Station to Osaka Station via the Chuo Expressway. The bus departs from Shinjuku at 23:40, and departs from Osaka at 23:50.
* The Seishun Dream Osaka runs from Tokyo Station to Osaka, JR Namba and Tennoji Stations via the Tomei Expressway. There is one nightly departure from Tokyo at 22:00, and one departure from Tennoji at 22:25 (leaving Namba at 22:55 and Osaka Station at 23:20). On Fridays, weekends and holidays, there is an additional departure in each direction, serving Osaka and JR Namba stations. It departs from Tokyo at 23:00 and departs from Namba at 21:55 (leaving Osaka Station at 22:20).
* The Seishun Chuo Dream Osaka runs from Shinjuku Station to Osaka Station and JR Namba Station via the Chuo Expressway. It departs from Shinjuku at 22:10, with the return run leaving from Namba at 22:55 (Osaka Station at 23:20).
The ride costs ¥8610 one-way and ¥15190 round-trip, except for the Seishun buses, which cost only ¥5000 one-way and ¥9500 round-trip. The notable difference is that Seishun buses use four-across seating found in standard buses, while the others use more comfortable and wider three-across seating.
* The Harbor Line overnight bus runs from Yokohama. It departs from Yokohama station's east bus terminal at 22:30, with the return leaving Osaka at 22:20. The cost is ¥8230 one-way and ¥14810 round-trip.
For the extremely brave and budget-conscious, there's the Seishun Mega Dream bus service, the cheapest route operating between the two cities. No more than 84 seats in a four-across seating configuration (2x2) with no recline are crammed into the double-level, four-axle bus, with a bathroom located on the first floor. Buses leave Tokyo every night at 22:50, with the return service leaving Osaka at 22:40. On Fridays, weekends and holidays, there are additional buses departing Tokyo at 21:40 and Osaka at 22:00. The fare is cheaper if you book at least one day in advance, costing ¥4000 for departures on Fridays, weekends and holidays, and ¥3500 for departures on all other days. Purchasing a ticket on the day of departure costs ¥4300 in all instances.
[edit] Premium nighttime buses from Tokyo
Premium Buses have been recently introduced on the Tokyo to Osaka overnight route. These buses provide upgraded amenities including more plush recliners, more legroom, air filtration and toiletries.
* The Premium Dream departs Tokyo station daily at 23:20, with the return trip leaving from Osaka daily at 23:40. On Fridays, weekends and holidays, an extra round-trip operates, leaving Tokyo at 22:20 and Osaka at 22:50. The ride costs ¥8910 one-way and ¥15790 round-trip for second floor seating, which features FM radios at every seat. More expansive first floor seating (of which there is only four seats) incurs an additional ¥1000 surcharge each way... but you do get your own television.
* The Super New Dream runs from Shinjuku Station to Osaka Station. It departs at 23:10 in both directions and costs ¥8910 one-way, ¥15790 round-trip.
[edit] By boat
There are ferry services from Osaka to Busan (South Korea) three times a week and Shanghai (China) twice weekly.
Osaka International Ferry Terminal [2] is located at Nankō (南港) in the Osaka Bay Area. To reach the port, take the New Tram from Suminoe-koen station to Nankōguchi (南港口).
The concrete expanse of Nishi-Umeda (West-Umeda)
The convenient Kansai Thru Card can be used on just about anything that moves in Osaka (as well as the rest of the Kansai region), with the notable exception of JR trains.
[edit] By subway
Osaka has Japan's second-most extensive subway network after Tokyo, which makes the underground the natural way to get around. The Midosuji Line is Osaka's main artery, linking up the massive train stations and shopping complexes of Shin-Osaka, Umeda, Shinsaibashi, Namba and Tennoji.
The signage, ticketing and operation of the Osaka subway is identical to its larger counterpart in Tokyo. However, the Osaka subway is more expensive, especially for short-distance travel.
True to its name, the JR Osaka Loop Line (環状線 Kanjō-sen) runs in a loop around Osaka. It's not quite as convenient or heavily-used as Tokyo's Yamanote Line, but it stops in Umeda and Tennoji, and by Osaka Castle. Namba and Universal Studios Japan are connected to the Loop Line by short spurs.
Umeda Sky Building
* Osaka Castle (大阪城 Osaka-jō) [3]. Osaka's best known sight, although it's a concrete reconstruction that pales in comparison with, say, Himeji. Still, it's pretty enough from the outside, especially in the cherry blossom season when Osakans flock to the castle park to picnic and make merry. Open 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM daily, adult admission ¥600 (Children up to middle school free). Closed at the end and beginning of the year. The park can be accessed on a number of lines, but the castle is closest to Osaka-jō Koen station on the JR Osaka Loop Line. Naniwa Palace Site Park can also be found south to Osaka Castle Park.
* Osaka Museum of History[4] 1-32 Otemae 4-Chome Chuo-ku Open 9:30AM-5PM (on Fri 9:30AM-8PM) Closed Tue but on Wed instead if Tue is a Holiday (5min walk from subway Tanimachi 4-chome Station but also accessible via Osaka Castle or from JR Osaka-jō Station) An ideal place to learn all-abouts of Osaka's history. Enjoyable view over Osaka Castle and the OBP skyscrapers. Admission: ¥600
* Osaka Science Museum (大阪市立科学館) (walk from subway Higobashi Station or Yodoya-bashi Station, 500m and 900m to the west respectively) Closed on Mon and days after Holidays if not weekend. Big interactive activity center on several floors. Great for kids. Planetarium and cinema (with science films) downstairs. ¥600/300.
* Umeda Sky Building (梅田スカイビル)[5]. 1-1-20 Oyodonaka, Kita-ku (10 min on foot from JR Osaka or Hankyu Umeda), Built in an attempt to upgrade Osaka's somewhat downbeat Kita district, the project wasn't quite the hoped-for commercial success but this bizarrely shaped 40-story, 173-meter building is still a city landmark. Take the escalator through midair to the rooftop observatory for an open-air view of Osaka, which is particularly impressive on a clear night. Observatory admission ¥700, open 10 AM to 10:30 PM daily (entry until 10 PM, varies by season). The basement features a recreation of a Meiji-era street, with a few small restaurants and bars in appropriate style.
* Sumiyoshi Taisha (住吉大社) is one of Japan's oldest Shinto shrines, with a history stretching back 1800 years. Its traditional architecture is unusual amongst Japan's shrines, and its park-like surroundings with the sacred bridge arching over a tranquil pond make it a restful break from the busy environment of Osaka. Best of all, it's free! Access is from the Nankai line station of the same name; local trains run from Namba station in central Osaka.
* Shitennōji (四天王寺), 1-1-18 Shitennōji Tennōji-ku (5 min walk from Shitennōji-mae-Yuhiga-oka Station on subway, or 15 min by walk to north from Tennōji Station), originally built by Emperor Suiko in 593 AD. Although the current buildings are mostly post WWII reconstructions, the temple is a rare sample which conveys the continental style (notably the positioning of the individual buildings inside the complex) of 6th - 7th century to our date.
* Japan Mint (造幣局) 1-1-79, Temma Kita-ku (15 min by walk from subway Temmabashi Station), [6]. It's not widely known even by people from elsewhere in the country that Japan Mint is actually headquartered in Osaka. For Osakans, Sakura-no-tōrinuke (桜の通り抜け, cherry blossom tunnel road) is a synonym for this facility, attracting a large number of visitors (close to 1 million in just 7 days) during a limited, planned week of mid-Apr. A must-see if you are fond of nature and happen to drop into Osaka in season. Admission free. Check for official announcement beforehand.
* Tsūtenkaku (通天閣). While the original tower was built early 20th century, the current "newer" version is designed by the same Prof. Naitō, who also designed Tokyo Tower. This landmark built in the middle of Shinsekai (新世界) area is a symbol of reconstruction of the City of Osaka post WWII.
* Imax Osaka is home to the largest Imax movie screen in the world located in the Suntory Museum (next to Kaiyukan). English headphones are available for no extra cost. If you plan on going to Kaiyukan aquarium and Imax, you can purchase a discount ticket for both at either ticket office.
* Kaiyukan (Osakako, Chuo Line) [7] is one of the world's largest aquariums, with 11,000 tons of water and plenty of sharks, dolphins, otters, seals, and other creatures of the sea. The largest tank, representing the Pacific Ocean with 5,400 tons is nothing but overwhelming. On the weekend, musicians and street performers offer additional entertainment to people outside the aquarium. ¥2,000 for adults, ¥900 for children.
* Sumo Spring Grand Tournament (大相撲春場所), Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium (approx. 10 min walk from subway Namba Station) [8]. The Osaka Tournament of Japan's national sport, sumo wrestling, is usually held mid-March annually at Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium. Check for schedules and ticket availabilities at the official Nihon Sumo Kyokai homepage. Ticket prices range from ¥3000 to ¥14,300.
* Universal Studios Japan, at Universal-City Station (JR Yumesaki Line, 10 min from Osaka), [9]. Japan's second-largest theme park. One-day tickets for adults/children ¥5800/3900.
* Tenpozan Ferris Wheel, next to Kaiyukan at Tempozan (天保山) area.There are Suntry museum,Kaiyukan (海遊館) - one of the biggest aquarium in japan,shops and a port of sightseeing boat. Open 10am to 10pm.
* Umeda Joypolis Sega, next to Umeda (Osaka) station, occupying 8th and 9th floors of the Hep Five building with arcades and a Ferris wheel at the top. From 11am to 11pm; ¥500-¥600 attractions.
* Spa World Just near Tsutenkaku Tower. Gender-separated European and Asian themed spas and saunas as well as a pool for the family with slides and fun. Open 24hrs. Regular prices are ¥2400 for 3 hours, ¥2700 for all day. Extra charge ¥1000 for stays 0AM-5AM. Watch out for the special ¥1000 deals offered from time to time, often in March.
* National Bunraku Theater, Nippombashi, [10]. One of the last places in the world where bunraku, a form of intricate puppet theater from the Edo period, can be seen live. The large puppets, which require three operators each, are accompanied by traditional music and narration, and act out great Japanese plays of the 1600s and 1700s. Transcripts in Japanese and synopses in English are provided.
* Osaka Siki musical theater, Umeda,in the Herbis ENT. Home of the Shiki Theatre Company.
* The festival hall in Nakanoshima, near Umeda, and the symphony hall in Umeda host modern and classical recitals, while Umeda Koma in Umeda, and Shin-Kabukiza in Namba host Enka performances. For more independent or underground music, try Banana Hall in Umeda or Big Cat in Amerika-mura.
o Zepp Osaka (POP clubs) , Nanko (Nanko_Kita 1-18-31,Suminoe_ku, near Cosmo-squair station. ).
o Blue Note (Jazz clubs)[11] Umeda.The branch of Blue Note in N.Y..
[edit] Learn
[edit] Work
The occupation of most resident Americans, Europeans and Australians is teaching English (as is the case in most of Japan). In recent years, the economy in the Osaka region has been relatively stagnant compared to Tokyo's: although there are jobs in law, finance, accounting, engineering and other professional fields in Osaka, demand for foreign professionals tends to be much higher in Tokyo (as is pay). Osaka does have several educational publishers that employ foreign workers, but these jobs require fluent Japanese language ability.
[edit] Buy
* Osaka's most famous shopping district is Shinsaibashi (心斎橋), which offers a mix of huge department stores, high-end Western designer stores, and independent boutiques ranging from very cheap to very expensive. Within Shinsaibashi, the Amerika-mura (アメリカ村, often shortened to "Amemura") or "American Village" area is particularly popular among young people, and is often said to be the source of most youth fashion trends in Japan. Near Amerika-mura,Horie (堀江) is shopping street of mainly Japanese brands shops. The many shops in Umeda are also popular among trendy locals, particularly in the Hep Five and Hep Navio buildings adjacent to Hankyu Umeda Station, although these shops tend to be too expensive to captivate most tourists' interest. In this area, new shopping buildings have been constructed recently. For example, the“E-ma” buildings next to Hanshin department store, and “Nu-Chayamachi” (Nu 茶屋町), opened in October 2005 near Hankyu Umeda station.
* For electronics, the Nippombashi (日本橋) area southeast of Namba, and particularly the "Den-Den Town" shopping street, was once regarded as the Akihabara of western Japan; nowadays, more people would rather shop at the new, enormous Yodobashi Camera (ヨドバシカメラ) in Umeda or BicCamera (ビックカメラ) and LABI1 in Namba, although Nippombashi still offers good deals on many gadgets and geekier PC components.
* For Japanese and foreign books, try Kinokuniya in Hankyu Umeda Station, or Junkudo south of Osaka Station.
* If you are a fan of Shochu you can buy it in the Sho-chu Authority shop in Namba Parks. There are hundreds of varieties of Shochu from all over Japan in crazy bottles. There usually is a selection of bottles to taste from (help yourself). Also sells Shochu pottery and glass as well as traditional snacks.
* The Official Hanshin Tigers (baseball team) Shop is located on 8th floor of Hanshin Department Store at Umeda.
* Tenjinbashi-suji Shopping Street (天神橋筋商店街 Tenjinbashi-suji Shōtengai) is said to be the longest straight and covered shopping arcade in Japan at approx. 2.6km length. The arcade is running north-south along Tenjinbashi-suji street, and is accessible from multiple subway and/or JR stations, eg. Tenma, Minami-Morimachi, Tenjinbashi-suji 6-chome, etc. Nothing meant for sightseeing, the arcade is a live exhibition of Osaka's daily life, open since Edo period.
Okonomiyaki - The DIY Food
Okonomiyaki Osaka style is usually do-it-yourself food at smaller, independent specialized restaurants. Tables are equipped with embedded hot plates and you'll receive a bowl of ingredients, which you are expected to cook on your own. However, in larger franchised chains the staff can often cook for you — and even in smaller places staff will usually gladly help if asked.
Should you decide to try your luck on your own, you might want to dress for the occasion: pork slices, the most common topping, are usually very fatty and tend to splatter grease all over the place.
In a nation of obsessive gourmands Osaka is known as an excellent place to eat, exemplified by the Osakan maxim kuidaore, "eat until you burst".
Some typically Osakan foods worth trying include:
* Okonomiyaki (お好み焼き), fried cabbage cakes that resemble a cross between a pancake, pizza, and omelette.
* Takoyaki (たこ焼き), bits of octopus inside fried dumplings.
* Kushiage (串揚げ), skewers with various sorts of food (meet, vegetables, cheese, etc.) deep-fried in dough and served with a black sauce.
Okonomiyaki is best eaten in hole-in-the-wall restaurants, while takoyaki is best eaten from street vendors' carts, which can be found all over the major districts around nightfall. The best place to find kushiage is in Shinsekai, between Dobutsuen-mae and Ebisucho stations on the Sakaisuji subway line.
* Battera (バッテラ), is a block type sushi, with mackerel put on rice and squeezed very hard in a wooden box, cut into pieces when served. Battera sushi is a variant and direct decendant of primitive sushi, this one from Osaka is unique for its squary shape. A very popular sushi that can be found at not only sushi restaurants but also as take-aways or souvenirs at department stores and/or station kiosks.
The best place for exercising kuidaore is probably Dōtonbori (道頓堀) and neighboring Hōzenji-yokochō (法善寺横町) or Soemon-cho (宗右衛門町), the whole area containing nearly nothing but one restaurant after another.
Some of the more famous establishments here include:
* Kuidaore (食い倒れ), featuring a mechanical clown beating a drum, is one of the contenders for the title of the largest restaurant in the world. Each floor specializes in a type of food. Affordable, but more fun in a group.
* Kani Dōraku (かに道楽), easily identifiable by the giant mechanical crab waving its pincers about, specializes in crab. Good but moderately expensive.
* Kanso is a "can bar", a uniquely Osaka invention. The shelves stock a wide range of cans of food, from chili to curried sea lion. Once you've made your selection, the staff will open the can and supply you with a plastic fork or spoon to consume the contents. Beer (¥350) and cheap booze (¥300-400) is available to accompany your feast. It's beside Yotsubashi blvd. on the north side of the Dotonbori river - look for the plastic tarps. (Those are the walls.) There is often live music in the summer.
* Tako Tako King, north side of Dotonbori river and west of Midosuji. The best takoyaki in Osaka and the same goes for service too! A friendly staff that never take off their smiles, good prices, good food, good drinks, and a whole lot of fun, make this a great place to start off a night in the Shinsaibashi area. Look for the big red octopus wearing a crown.
In the Hanshin department store (Umeda) B2 Floor is Snack Park （スナックパーク）, which offers okonomiyaki, takoyaki and a few surprises like doteyaki (どて焼き) - stew sinew of beef. It's open from 10 a.m to 8:30 p.m.
[edit] Splurge
* Harijyu (はり重) 1-9-17 Dōtonbori Chuō-ku, 06-6211-7777 11:30AM-9:30PM Closed on T except Dec [12] (partly English), Shabu-shabu or sukiyaki in Japanese tatami rooms. No reservations are taken except for large groups, so arrive early at nights (6PM or so) to be sure you get a room without waiting. Expensive, but not astronomical thanks to their direct involvement in butcher's. (Butcher's on ground floor, take-out obentō boxes are available.) ¥6300+ Credit cards accepted.
* Mimyu (美々卯) 4-6-18 Hirano-machi 06-6231-5770 11:30AM-10PM Closed Su. This inventor of udonsuki has turned the otherwise popular and affordable udon into a luxury hotpot (nabe) dish, served in its corporate secret soup. Shabu-shabu available, too. ¥5800+ for dinner.
Outside of Dotonbori, you may find:
* Tsuruhashi Fūgetsu (鶴橋風月), Hankyu Building 29F (next to Hankyu Umeda station), [13]. Good okonomiyaki as well yakisoba, with extra toppings (egg, cheese, etc.), all for a cheap price of ¥700-800, plus English menu and a nice view overlooking Umeda. Perfect!
Other budget alternatives would be:
* Saizeria is a very cheap Italian eatery chain with many restaurants not only in Osaka, but all over the nation. The food is simple but decent. Glass of wine ¥100. Typical meal ¥400. The cheaper dishes are actually better than the pricier ones.
[edit] Drink
* Common Style, 1-2-2 Nakazaki-nishi, Kita-ku, [14]. A cafe where foreigners can exchange information with Japanese about what interests them.
* Pig and Whistle - This British pub, on Midosuji in Shinsaibashi, serves as a meeting place for many local expats as well as Japanese locals.
[edit] Nightclubs
* Clube Joule, 2-11-30 Nishi-shinsaibashi, next to Sankaku (Triangle) Park in America Mura, [15]. Packed with trance lovers.
* Club Pure, Chuo-ku, Soemon-cho 2-3-12 Diamond Bldg. B1F, Tel. 06-2536-6278, (info@club-pure.com), [16]
* Club Heaven, Shinsaibashi. Tel. 077-510-0321. Gets very crowded when Club Pure and some other clubs are closing for the night. Very international crowd.
* Sam and Dave Shinsaibashi, 4F 1-3-29 Shinsaibashi Cyuo-ku Osaka Tel. 06-6243-6848.
[edit] Budget
Hello Kitty room, Hotel Adnis
Backpackers have recently begun to use budget hotels around the JR Shin-Imamiya (新今宮) and subway Midosuji Line Dōbutsuen-mae (動物園前) stations, located in the southern part of the city center. Room quality varies widely and prices vary from 800 yen to 3000+ yen, but there are many options: see the Osaka International Guesthouse Area [17] for the full list of foreigner-friendly establishments.
* Hotel Chuo. 1-1-12 Taishi Nishinari-ku Osaka-shi.
* Hotel Taiyo, [18], 23-2-1 Taishi Nishinari-ku. Single ¥2100, twin ¥3100.
* Hotel Mikado, [19], 1-2-11 Taishi Nishinari-ku. Single 2100yen, Twin 4200yen. Internet, sauna.
More centrally located are capsule hotels, found near the major train stations .
* Capsule Inn Osaka, 9-5 Doyamamachi, Kita-ku (in the Higashi-Hankyu shopping arcade off Umeda station). Tel. 06-6314-2100, Fax 06-6363-3014, [20]. This is Japan's first capsule hotel, designed by noted architect Kisho Kurokawa and opened in 1979. Still open for business, happy to accommodate male foreigners with some semblance of a clue and a steal at ¥2700 for a night (or ¥3300 with entry to the spa). No women allowed.
* Asahiplaza Shinsaibashi, 2-12-22 Nishi-shinsaibashi, Chuo-ku (at Amerikamura). Tel. 06-6213-1991, Fax 06-6212-0954, [21]. A sauna is available, and there is a separate area for women. ¥2700.
* Daitoyo, 2-1-9 Nakazaki-Nishi, Kita-ku. (Near Nakazaki-cho station, Tanimachi-Line subway). Near Umeda, with branches at Namba and Juso. It has a hot spring spa, sauna, and a floor for women. ¥3200.
There are many business hotels in Osaka. Most offer single rooms.
* Esaka Central Hotel, 1-22-30 Esaka Suita-shi Osaka (2 min from Esaka station, Midosuji-line subway). Single ¥4500.
* Business Hotel OK, 1-10-11 Juso-higashi Yodogawa-ku Osaka, (3 min from Juso station, Hankyu line), Tel 06-6305-5021. Single ¥4500.
Last but not least, Osaka has its fair share of love hotels around the city.
* Hotel Adnis, Tennoji 5-5-15 (5 min from Kintetsu Uehonmachi stn), Tel 06-6761-0168, [22]. Love hotel with an S&M twist: check out rooms 303, done up like a commuter train, and room 501, the infamous Hello Kitty bondage room. Overnight stay from ¥6,500 (depending on room).
[edit] Mid-range
Typical Japanese business hotels are step up from a capsule and can be found everywhere. Examples include:
* Park Hotel Rinkai, Near Honmachi Station (Exit 28 from the Yotsubashi subway line, walk east for 5 minutes.) TEL 06-6444-0809. [23] A business hotel located in the center of the business district. Near Honmachi station offering access to 3 subway lines. Room prices are around ¥6000 for a single and 10,000 for a twin. Unfortunately, most of the staff can't speak English.
* Hilton Osaka 1-8-8, Umeda, Kita-ku [24]. Across the street from JR Osaka station.
* Hyatt Regency, 1-13-11 Nanko-Kita, Suminoe-Ku [25]. A hotel opposite the World Trade Center and one of the higher end hotels in the area. This hotel is an official hotel for the Universal Studios Japan and one of the most expensive hotels in the city. A bit far away from the city centre with no direct subway line. Houses a chapel on its grounds too. Some Airline Crews use this one.
* Imperial Hotel 8-50, Temmabashi 1-chome, Kita-ku [26]. At riverside.
* New Otani 1-4-1 Shiromi, Chuo-ku [27].
* Rihga Royal Hotel, 5-3-68, Nakanoshima, Kita-ku [28]. Opened as the New Osaka Hotel in 1935, this landmark hotel proudly offers one of the best hotel services in town.
* Ritz-Carlton, 2-5-25 Umeda, Kita-ku (just down the street from the Sakurabashi exit of Osaka Station, behind the Central Post Office) [29] Japan's only Ritz-Carlton, pending the 2007 opening of a high-rise monster in Tokyo's Roppongi. This particular outlet was voted the best hotel in Japan several times, and has become known as one of the city's swankiest dining and meeting points. Rates start around ¥30,000 a night and rise skyward from there.
* Swissotel Nankai 5-1-60, namba,Chuo-ku, [30]. Next to Namba train and bus stations.
* Westin 1-1-20 Oyodo Naka, Kita-ku [31]. Next to the Umeda Sky Building.
[edit] Contact
* Opti Café is a surprisingly cheap internet café in Umeda. ¥100/30min. Yodobashi Camera department store's groundfloor, next to Excelsior Café. You are requested to register for membership but it doesn't cost anything.
* Y-net Cafe, Labi 1 Namba GF, Nambanaka 2-11-35, Naniwa-ku. First hour of use is free and no registration needed.
[edit] Stay safe
Osaka has a dangerous reputation (by Japanese standards), but is still remarkably safe for a city of its size, and the overall level of crime is as low as in Tokyo or other Japanese cities. However, some districts, particularly Shinsekai, may be a little dodgy at night and the Airin/Kamagasaki area — Japan's largest slum — south of Shin-Imamiya is best avoided at all times.
Incidentally, despite the movie stereotype of gangsters speaking in Osakan dialect, the actual base of Japan's biggest yakuza families is neighboring Kobe — and the most gang violence occurs in Tokyo. Unless you're dealing drugs, you're unlikely to get involved with the local mafia.
[edit] Get out
* Its location makes Osaka a perfect base for doing one-day trips to nearby cities like Kyoto (30 minutes), Kobe (20 minutes), Nara (40 minutes) or Himeji (1 hour). (Typical times shown on JR Trains available without extra express charges starting from Osaka Station.)
* The Expo Park in Suita, the huge commemorial park of the Japan World Expo '70, with its interesting Japanese Garden and Museum of National Ethnology.
* Church of light (茨木春日丘教会 Ibaraki Kasuga-oka Kyoukai)(Ibaraki), one of the masterpiece architecture by Tadao Ando.
* Minō Koen (Minō), a popular maple watching spot in autumn.
* The temples and lush greenery of Mount Koya, 90 minutes away by train, are an entirely different world and the perfect getaway when all the concrete starts to get to you.
* Akashi Kaikyo Bridge, the world's longest suspension bridge is located near Kobe, about 40 minutes away by train.
written by  garisti on April 1, 2008 from Osaka, Japan

Nara, Japan
Nara (奈良) [1] is an ancient capital city in Nara Prefecture, Kansai region of Japan.
Overshadowed by its more famous neighbor Kyoto, Nara is omitted from many a time-pressed tourist's itinerary. However, Nara is home to many important scenic and historical sites, and today preserves its main sights much more attractively than Kyoto within Nara Park and neighborhoods like Naramachi.
[edit] Understand
Along with the development of Heijyōkyō (平城京), the capital of Japan between 710-784 AD, Nara flourished under the influence of Buddhism, leading to the creation of an enormous number of cultural assets, buildings and books, many of which are preserved today. Nara has the largest number of buildings designated National Treasures in Japan.
While the Heijyōkyū Palace (平城宮) site turned into plain fields after the capital was moved to Kyoto, the shrines and temples were left on the east side of the palace (called Gekyo (外京)), and Buddhism remained influential throughout the following centuries. Another part of the area developed as a merchant town, notably in the Edo period, known as Naramachi (ならまち) today.
Nara does not have its own airport, so most visitors arrive via Kansai International Airport, or Osaka's Itami Airport.
From Kansai Airport, Airport Limousine buses run to the two Nara train stations every hour (¥1800, 1 1/2 hours). More frequent service is available by rail: If you have a Japan Rail Pass, you can take the Haruka limited express to Tennoji station and then transfer to the Yamatoji line for the run to Nara (¥2390, no charge with rail pass). Otherwise, it's cheaper to take the Nankai Railway's Kūkō-Kyūkō (空港急行) express train to Shin-Imamiya, and then take the JR Yamatoji line from there (¥1510). Both trips take around 1 1/4 hours with good connections.
Limousine buses connect Itami Airport to the two Nara train stations for ¥1440; the ride takes about one hour.
From Kyoto station, both the JR Nara Line and the private Kintetsu Kyoto Line will get you to Nara quickly. The Kintetsu Nara station is better located than the JR Nara station, but unless you want to take an all-reserved Tokkyū (特急) train which leaves twice an hour and runs to Nara in 35 minutes, you will have to change at Yamato Saidaiji (get onto a Kyūkō (急行)) for the last hop into town. The latter takes about 50 minutes depending on connection at Yamato Saidaiji. The trip will cost ¥610, plus an extra ¥500 on the Tokkyū. For Japan Rail Pass holders, JR's Miyakoji Kaisoku (みやこ路快速) runs from Kyoto to Nara in as little as 41 minutes (¥690, no charge with rail pass).
The fastest route from Osaka is to take the private Kintetsu Nara Line from Namba station. Kaisoku-Kyūkō (快速急行) trains run to Kintetsu Nara in 35 minutes (¥540). For Japan Rail Pass holders, JR runs two Yamatoji Kaisoku (大和路快速) trains each hour from Osaka, Tennōji, and intermediate stations on the Osaka Loop Line. The run to Nara is 44 minutes from Osaka and 31 minutes from Tennōji (¥780 and ¥450 respectively, no charge with rail pass).
If travelling between Kyoto, Nara and Osaka explore the Kansai thru-passs which enables unlimited travel for 2 or 3 days on private railways, buses and subways (not-JR) within the Kansai area.
As Nara is a major tourist attraction, there are a good number of buses that run between Nara and other locations throughout Japan, which can result in significant savings when compared to train fares.
The JR Bus Group (Japanese Website) is a major operator of the routes from the Tokyo area to Kansai. Buses to Nara operate via the Tomei Expressway (to/from Tokyo Station), and make a stop at Kyoto Station enroute. Seat reservations for JR Buses can be made in train stations at the same "Midori-no-Madoguchi" ticket windows used to reserve seats on trains.
You can receive a discount of between 10 and 35 percent off the cost of the ticket if reservations are made at least 21 days in advance on most routes.
The Japan Rail Pass is NOT valid on buses running between Tokyo and Nara. However, you can take a bus into Kyoto Station, which is covered under the pass, and change there for rail service on the JR Nara Line for the final run.
The following overnight services are available: (Current as of June 2006)
* The Dream Nara departs Tokyo Station every night at 22:00, with the returning service leaving Nara at 22:10. The cost is ¥8400 one-way and ¥15120 round trip.
* The Seishun Dream Kyoto-Nara departs from Tokyo Station every night at 21:50, with the returning service leaving Nara at from Kyoto at 21:10. This bus costs ¥5000 one-way and ¥9500 round trip. The notable difference is that the Seishun bus uses four-across seating found in standard buses, while the other uses more comfortable and wider three-across seating.
Both of these services reach Nara in about 9 1/2 hours.
The World Heritage Loop Line Bus Ticket [2] provides unlimited bus rides of the World Heritage Loop Line as well as any commuter lines in the designated area for ¥800 (adult) or ¥400 (children less than 12 years old) per day.
It is recommended to take buses for visiting Heijōkyū Palace Site, Tōshōdai-ji Temple and Yakushi-ji Temple.
Once within Nara Park, you can simply walk to almost all the other major sites.
If you only have one day to spend in Nara, focus on Nara Park. With more time, though, there's more to see. Three days in Nara provides suggestions for longer trips to the area.
[edit] In Nara Park
Yakushi Nyorai, Buddha of medicine and healing, at Todaiji
Lanterns at Kasuga Taisha
Most of Nara's sights, including temples, shrines and famously mercenary deer, are concentrated in Nara Park (奈良公園 Nara-kōen), a wide, pleasant space of greenery. According to legend, the god of the Kasuga Taisha came riding a white deer in the old days, so the deer enjoy protected status as envoys of the god; however, based on their current behavior, either the deer have lost the job, or the god has taken an extremely passionate interest in biscuits from tourists (¥150), empty food wrappers and harassing shopkeepers.
* Tōdai-ji (東大寺) is home to the Daibutsu (大仏), the largest Buddha statue in Japan and one of the largest in the world, appropriately, the Daibutsu-den, which houses it, is said to be the largest wooden building in the world. It's listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The giant front gate, Nandai-mon, is guarded by two fierce, awe-inspiring protectors. (It's also swarmed by deer, who know this is the best place to come looking for a hand-out.) Through the gate is a stone path leading to the outer walls surrounding the Daibutsu-den. Follow the signs to the left to enter the inner courtyard; if you happen to have a stick of incense with you, join the crowd around the incense offerings before you head onward.
o The Daibutsu-den (8am-4:30pm Nov-Feb, to 5pm Mar / Oct, 7:30am-5:30pm Apr-Sep; admission ¥500) also contains four other giant statues. Once you've taken in the Daibutsu itself, walk around it to the left to see the other statues, as well as a few old tiles and leftover relics. There's a stand inviting you to sponsor a tile in order to help with the upkeep of the temple, and English-language fortune scrolls (omikuji) are on sale year-round. Take a final look at the Daibutsu as you leave; don't let the souvenir stand be your last memory of this incredible sight.
+ Just before the souvenir area, behind and to the right of the Daibutsu, is a wooden column with a small hole carved through the bottom. Enlightenment is reportedly promised to anyone who can squeeze through this hole. In practice, this means a lot of kids have enlightenment in store (thanks in part to other kids who kick their feet to "help" them through), and all but the skinniest adults can only look on in envy.
+ To the right of the entrance to the Daibutsu-den is a statue of the Yakushi Nyorai. Though a bit scary-looking on first glance, it's actually a Buddha of medicine and healing. Touching a part of the Yakushi Nyorai and then the corresponding part of your own body is said to heal any ailments you have there.
* Kōfuku-ji (興福寺) (9am-5pm; admission to the Eastern Golden Hall ¥500) [3] has a three-story and a five-story pagoda; historically, the latter has contended with Kyoto's Toji for the title of Tallest Pagoda in Japan, although Kofuku-ji seems to have surrendered for now.
o Sarusawa-no-ike (猿沢の池) This small pond at the east end of Sanjō-dōri with Nara Park behind or Naramachi to its south is a very popular viewing spot for Kōfukuji.
* Nara National Museum [4] has one of the world's best collections of Buddhist art and changing exhibitions. The National Treasure Hall has an impressive collection of statues. Entrance fee ¥500.
* Ukimidō (浮見堂) A hexagonal building built on Sagi-ike (鷺池) Pond in Nara Park so that it appears to float on water.
* Kasuga Taisha (春日大社) is worth a visit for the beautiful approach, through the Kasuga-yama Primeval Forest (see below), more than the temple itself. What Kyoto's Fushimi Inari Taisha is for torii, Kasuga Taisha is for stone lanterns. Notice the giant rack of sake barrels near the front gate and the fountain-statue of a giant buck. The temple is occasionally closed for services, but a walk around the outside is likely to be no less rewarding.
* Kasuga-yama Hill Primeval Forest (春日山原生林) is a gorgeous hill and wild, undeveloped forest leading to Kasuga Taisha and some of the other sights in Nara Koen. The path is clearly marked, though, so don't worry about getting lost. It's a magical, quiet walk at any time of day. If you're determined to feed some deer, save your biscuits for the ones out here instead of the loafers by Todai-ji.
* Isui-en Garden (依水園) (9:30AM-4PM, Entrance fee ¥650) [5] is located on the way to Kasuga Taisha Shrine from Kintetsu Nara Station. Enjoy the magnificently arranged garden with full of flowers, surrounded by all the rest of Nara Park.
* Shin-Yakushi-ji (9am-5pm; admission ¥500) can be reached through the forest; follow the signs from Kasuga Taisha. It's a single hall with twelve ferocious warrior statues (each with his own collection plate) standing guard by a Buddha of healing. The statues are quite impressive; this is as well-protected a Buddha as you're likely to find.
[edit] Other sights
* Nara City Museum of Photography is near Shin-Yakushi-ji, a couple blocks outside Nara Park. The steel-and-glass building sits as if reflected upon the linear pond that surrounds it. Inside, there are reasonably interesting exhibits of photography on local subjects like the Mount Wakakusa Fire Festival (see below).
* Yakushi-ji Temple (薬師寺) (9am-5pm; admission ¥500) [6]
* Gangō-ji Temple (元興寺)
* Heijōkyū Palace Site (Nara Palace Site) (平城宮跡)[7] (Suzaku Gate(restored) (朱雀門), Daigoku-den (under restoration) (大極殿))
* Tōshōdai-ji Temple (唐招提寺)
* Nara Century Hall, next to JR Nara station. Events, concerts, and musicals. Sometimes a flea market is held in front of the hall.
* Naramachi is ten minutes on foot south of Kintetsu Nara station. The neighborhood, originally founded in the 8th Century when Heijōkyō was the capital of Japan, today contains several small museums, machiya (町家) (traditional Japanese merchant houses from Edo Period), unique cafes and restaurants and much more. (David Bowie is rumored to have owned a house here.) It's well worth the time to stop and do a tasting at Harushika (春鹿), Naramachi's fabulous Nihon-shu (sake) brewery.
o A morning walking tour (Naramachi Walker) leaves from the Tourist Information Center on the ground floor of Kintetsu Nara Station at 9:30. It's led by a professional English-speaking local guide. You will see old "machiya" houses and lively local alleys full of interesting sights. This area is not easy to see unless you know where to go. Seeing the area with a local guide is desirable. Tours cost ¥2000( ¥1500 for students, children under 15 free) and are available every Saturday in April-July and Sep-Nov, running from 9:30am to 12:30pm. No reservation required; just meet the guide by 9:25am in front of TIC at Kintetsu Nara Stn. The tour ends near Kasuga Taisha (or Kasuga Grand Shinto Shrine) in Nara Park. URL:http://www.eonet.ne.jp/~naramachiwalk
* Mount Wakakusa Fire Festival (Wakakusa-yamayaki), Nara Park - Wakakusayama. Night before second M on New Year, dry grass on the slopes of this mountain is set on fire by two temples. (Planned on 13 Jan for 2008.)
* Shuni-e (Omizu-tori) (修二会 (お水取り)), Nigatsu-dō of Todai-ji Temple (東大寺二月堂.) At nights every 1-14 Mar. An annual Buddhist memorial service that has been carried out first in 752 AD and continues today without one single break. Priests will run around the Nigatsu-dō carrying 1m large fire torches.
* Nara Tōka-e (なら燈火会) is a light festival held 6-15 Aug every year. 10,000 candles illuminate the area around Nara Park and major temples.
* Deer-horn Cutting Ceremony, at Roku-en (鹿苑) inside Nara Park. Every Oct. The deer have their horns cut to prevent people from being injured.
[edit] Learn
Three organizations offer free tours in English:
* Nara YMCA Goodwill Guides 0742-45-5920 (eggnaraymca@hotmail.com) [8]
* Nara Student Guide 0742-26-4753.
[edit] Work
Nara features the typical range of English conversation schools, including a prominent NOVA near the Kintetsu station.
[edit] What to Buy
narazuke (奈良漬). A local specialty pickle made of various vegetables and fruit, traditionally melon cucumber (瓜 uri). The distinctive strong flavor comes from the use of sakekasu, the sediment of sake fermentation, and the pickle also has some residual alcohol. Shops are found on any of the shopping areas listed below.
Handmade writing brushes (fude,筆) and ink (sumi,墨). Nara is famous for its calligraphy brushes called Narafude (奈良筆), which are available in the specialist stores on Sanjō-dōri Avenue. However, as these brushes are made with a special kind of animal hair, they are expensive and rare, and customers will need to make a specific request for them. Other brushes sold in the specialist stores will be less expensive than Narafude, but still generally of reputable quality.
Nara Sarashi (奈良晒), or Nara fabrics, is another traditionally artisanal product of Nara. Originally made of boehmeria variation plants in the older ages, cotton has become the major material since Edo Period, mainly due to availability and cost. Towels, handkerchiefs, blankets, blinds and many other cloth material products can be found in stores located on Mochiidono Shopping street or in Naramachi area.
[edit] Where to Buy (Central City)
* Higashimuki Shopping Street （東向き商店街), a covered shopping arcade of about 250m stretching south from Kintetsu Nara Station, where many souvenir shops as well as restaurants can be found.
Yamazaki-ya (山崎屋) 5 Higashimuki Minamimachi (along the covered Higashimuki Shopping Street) 0742-22-8039. A well-known purveyor of narazuke.
* Mochiidono Shopping Street (もちいどの商店街), another covered arcade further into south, connecting from Higashimuki Shopping Street, is the main street leading to the center of Naramachi.
* Sanjō-dōri Avenue (三条通り), most shops are located within the apporx. 800m zone, between JR Nara Station and sounth end of Higashimuki Shopping Street, of this Avenue. Many souvenir shops, traditional writing brush (fude,筆) and ink (sumi,墨) stores, narazuke stores as well as various bars and restaurants are located on this avenue. Most of the major banks are found on this Avenue, too.
[edit] Shopping Malls
* Nara Family, 3 minutes walk from Yamato-Saidaiji station, [10]. One of the largest shopping malls in Kansai.
A local specialty is kaki-no-hazushi (柿の葉ずし), or sushi (usually mackerel and/or salmon) wrapped persimmon leaves, which actually originates from nearby Yoshino. Kudzu from Yoshino too is a very renowned product of Nara, which is used for making various food ranging from kudzu noodles (葛切り kuzu-kiri) to Japanese sweets (和菓子 wagashi). The thin wheat noodles (somen) from Miwa region (三輪そうめん Miwa sōmen) has a long history as old as Nara; the noodles are served either hot or cold.
* Sanshū-tei (三秀亭) (in the Isui-en Garden, 依水園) is worth a visit more for the attractive old house and garden than the menu, which consists of two very traditional dishes: mugi tororo (plain rice with ground yam, ¥1200), and unagi tororo (the same with grilled eel, ¥2500). Open 11:30AM-1:30PM only, daily except Tuesday.
* Hiraso (平宗), 30-1 Imamikadocho (south of Sarusawa Pond), 0742-22-3900 10AM-8PM Closed on M. [11] (Japanese only) A nice sampling of local foods such as kakinohazushi and chagayu ("tea gruel", but it tastes better than it sounds) are included in dinner sets miyoshino and heijou, around ¥2500. English picture menu available.
* Udon-tei (うどん亭), 6 Higashimuki-Nakamachi (inside Higashimuki Shopping Street arcade), 0742-23-5471 Daily 11AM-8:30PM. Served udon (thick wheat noodles) in various ways, hot or cold, plain or with tempura, etc, mostly less than ¥1000. Always fully packed with local people at lunch times. Suitable for time-savers and relatively small appetites. Sample display at front of entrance.
* Okaru (おかる), 13 Higashimuki-Minamimachi (inside Higashimuki Shopping Street arcade), 0742-24-3686　11AM-9PM Closed on W except if Holiday. A restaurant specialized in okonomiyaki (お好み焼き), the pan-fried cabbage cake with selection of meat. Okonomiyaki is definitely shortlisted on Kansai people's most beloved dishes. ¥530-1400. English menu available. Samples displayed at front.
* Yatagarasu (やたがらす), 13-1 Hayashi-kōji-cho, 0742-20-0808. Daily 5PM-0AM. Fresh poultry from local farms cooked and served in many different ways (eg. grilled, fried, even raw) with a variety of either local or other regional sake available. Budget around ¥2500 depending on your appetite.
* Nara Shōya (奈良庄屋), 48-5 Takama-cho (Keiwa building B1F), 0742-24-2151. Daily 11:30AM-2PM, 4:30PM-11PM. A branch of large chain pub restaurant with traditional food like raw fish (さしみ sashimi), sushi, tempura, yakitori available. Though little (except for sake) is Nara local, quality of food is excellent for a chain type of restaurant. The restaurant is always filled with a dynamic, yet agreeable mood.
[edit] Take-out
Alternatively, you can take out kaki-no-hazushi, which is actually very popular for domestic travellers. There are three kaki-no-hazushi stores that can be easily spotted around Kintetsu Nara Station. Packages of various size and combination are available.
* Hiraso (the same brand as mentioned above), close to the north entrance of Higashimuki Shopping arcade, next to a bakery called Douce.
* Nakatani Honpo (中谷本舗), inside the Kintetsu Station concourse.
* Honpo Tanaka (本舗たなか), in front of Bus terminal & Taxi zone above Kintetsu Nara Station.
Otherwise, a take-out sushi store, again in the Kintetsu Nara Station concourse named Maruchū (丸忠) has a selection of prepared packages ranging ¥400-1000 with good quality.
Another well-known culinary product is shika-senbei, a rice cracker sold around Nara Park. Don't try eating it yourself though — it's meant for the deer!
Note that closing times are generally as early as 10 PM in Nara.
Yamato-cha (大和茶) is the locally produced Japanese green tea which is healthy and tasty. There are also numerous sake brands, among which is Harushika brand, produced by one of the oldest existing sake breweries in Japan.
* Kuramoto Hoshuku (蔵元　豊祝), 28 Higashimuki (Nara Kintetsu building B1F / in the Kintetsu Nara Station concourse), 0742-26-2625. Daily 11:30AM-2PM, 4PM-9PM. Directly operated by a local brewery Nara Toyosawa. "Sake testing Set" (利き酒セット kikizake-set), including three small glasses of different homebrew sake by the brewery at ¥350. "Hoshuku Set" is a mini combi set with either a glass of Hoshuku brand sake or beer plus small snack dishes at ¥500. A popular drop-by place for people commuting back home on Kintetsu lines.
* Ryokan Seikansō (静観荘), 29 Higashi-Kitsuji-cho (15 minutes south of Nara Kintetsu station, along Mochiidono Street), 0742-22-2670 (fax 0742-22-2670 , seikanso@chive.ocn.ne.jp). Tatami mats, classical architecture, and a well-kept inner garden feature in this traōditional ryokan. The rooms are showing their age, but each features a samovar for tea and a small room with a table overlooking the garden. The shared bathrooms have been recently remodeled. Japanese/Western breakfast for ¥700/450 is served in the tatami dinning room. The manager speaks limited (but sufficient) English. ¥4200/person.
* Ryokan Matsumae, 28-1 Higashi-Terabayashi-cho, Nara, Nara Pref. 630-8362, ☎ 0742-22-3686 (hanami626@yahoo.co.jp, fax: 0742-26-3927), [12]. Located off Sanjo-dori, close to Sarusawa Pond and Gango-ji, about 7 minutes from Kintetsu Nara station or 15 minutes from JR Nara. The owners profess to be "familiar with Buddha statue carving" and calligraphy. ¥5250-5750 1 person without/with bath, ¥8820-9450 2 people, ¥13,230-14,175 3 people.
* Hotel Fujita Nara (ホテルフジタ奈良),47-1 Shimosanjō-cho (on Sanjō Avenue), 0742-23-8111 (fax 0742-22-0255)[13] A modern western style hotel, very conveniently located in the middle of JR and Kintetsu Nara stations. ¥7500-18000/room (wide variety of reservation/price plans available)
* Nara Washington Hotel Fujita Nara (奈良ワシントンホテルプラザ),31-1 Shimosanjō-cho (on Sanjō Avenue), 0742-27-0410 (fax 0742-27-0484)[14](Japanese only) A nationwide chain hotel of modern western style. Convenient location. All rooms equipped with free Internet access. ¥6900-16500/room
* Tempyō Ryokan (天平旅館), 9 Higashimuki-Nakamachi (situated inside the Higashimuki Shopping Street arcade) 0742-22-0551 (fax 0742-22-0553) [15](Japanese only) Budget type accomodation with both Japanese and western style rooms available. ¥6500-8000/person
* Kikusuirō (菊水楼), 1130 Takabatake-cho, 0742-23-2001 (fax 0742-26-0025) Typical Japanese-style deluxe ryokan inn.　¥+/-40000/person depending on days and season.
* Nara Hotel (奈良ホテル), 1096 Takabatake-cho, 0742-26-3300 (fax 0742-23-5252)[16] Classic westernized style hotel of de luxe class, since 1909.　¥12000-90000/room.
* Hotel Nikko Nara 8-1 Sanjō-Hommachi (close to JR Nara Station) 0742-35-8831 (fax 0742-35-6868)[17] A JAL (Japan Airlines) group chain hotel. ¥10500-27000/room
[edit] Contact
Tourist information centers operate in Nara:
* Nara City Tourist Information Center (on Sanjo-dori) 0742-22-3900. 9 AM to 9 PM
* JR Nara Station 0742-22-9821. 9 AM to 5 PM.
* Kintetsu Nara Station 0742-24-4858. 9 AM to 5 PM.
* Sarusawa Pond 0742-26-1991. 9 AM to 5 PM.
[edit] Cope
[edit] Stay safe
The deer in Nara Park tend to be friendly and perhaps overly eager to eat shika-senbei (¥150) biscuits from the hands of tourists. Small children may be frightened to have the suddenly manic deer coming after them, so it may be best to feed the deer yourself and let the kids watch. While in the Kasuga-yama forest, steer clear of any deer which still have their antlers. They can be aggressive and their antlers can injure you.
If you are allergic to pollen, beware: the heaviest cedar pollen fluctuation in this area is usually from mid-February to April.
As the center of a plain dense with history, Nara makes a good hub for exploring the vicinity.
* Hōryūji (法隆寺) — A World Heritage site with an ancient temple complex housing some of the oldest existing wooden buildings in the world
* Kashihara (橿原) — the site of Japan's capital city, Fujiwarakyo (藤原京), before Nara.
* Imai (今井町) — part of contemporary Kashihara City, preserving full of old merchant houses dating back from Edo period.
* Asuka (飛鳥) — the homeground of Japan's earliest historical capital city, Asukakyo (飛鳥京)
* Yoshino (吉野) — the mountain area which comprises a part of another UNESCO World Heritage, and possibly Japan's most famous cherry blossom viewing spots
written by  garisti on April 1, 2008 from Nara, Japan

Hiroshima, Japan
Hiroshima (広島) [1] is an industrial city of wide boulevards, criss-crossing rivers and a dense city center. It is located along the coast of the Seto Inland Sea in the western Chugoku region of Japan. Although many only know it for the horrific split second on August 6, 1945, when it became the site of the world's first atomic bomb attack, it is now a modern, cosmopolitan city with a lot of great food and nightlife.
[edit] Understand
Those expecting to step off the Shinkansen into a pile of smouldering rubble may be in for a surprise, as Hiroshima has all the ferroconcrete and blinking neon of any other modern Japanese city and a population of more than 1,100,000 people. It is the financial center of the Chugoku region and most of west Japan. Automobiles are a major local industry, with Mazda's corporate headquarters nearby. There is also a busy naval port, Ujina.
Hiroshima was founded in 1589 on the delta formed by the Ota River, flowing out to the Seto Inland Sea. It became a major industrial center and one of Japan's larger cities in the Meiji period. During World War II, the Japanese military used Hiroshima as a communications and supply center, taking advantage of its position on the Inland Sea. It was left largely untouched by aerial bombing campaigns before the atomic bomb was dropped. It is estimated that 140,000 people were killed in the explosion and its aftermath. The survivors, known as hibakusha, were subjected not only to radiation-related diseases but severe discrimination from other Japanese, but have since been at the forefront of Japan's post-war pacifism and its campaign against the use of nuclear weapons.
Many visitors, especially Americans, may feel apprehensive about visiting Hiroshima. It's a friendly, welcoming city, however, as interested in Western culture as anywhere else in Japan, and the exhibits related to the atomic bomb are not concerned with blame or accusations. Tourists are welcomed with open arms. Bear in mind, though, that many of the hibakusha still live in Hiroshima. Even many young people may have personal ties to family members who lived through the atomic blast. As such, the average Hiroshima resident isn't likely to relish talking about it, although you needn't shy away from the topic if one of the chatty fellows around the Peace Memorial Park brings it up.
[edit] Orientation
JR Hiroshima Station is a 15 minute walk from the city center. If you arrive by Shinkansen, you will be at the back of the station, facing a silver Peace Pagoda on the top of Ushita-yama. If you cross under or through the station to the main side, you will see the taxis, trams and buses that lead to the city center. The front of the station also has the main tourist information office. If you feel like walking from the station, cross the river in front of the station and take the first right along the main road. You will be in the city center in less than 15 minutes.
Other visitors may arrive at the Hiroshima Bus Center (広島バスセンター), which is right in the center of the city, inside the Sogo department store. Hondori, a long covered shopping street, is a good landmark to use to orient yourself, and most sites are within walking distance from there. The Peace Park (平和公園 Heiwa Koen）is in the city center. Most trams and buses from the train station run past or close to the Peace Park. Across from Peace Park is the current Hiroshima Carp baseball stadium. Also just north of the city center is Hiroshima Rijo Castle (広島城）a rebuilt version of the original, but beautiful and a great place to relax or stroll. Across the street from the castle is Chuo Park (中央公園 Chuo-koen), where you can find groups picnicking and exercising in the biggest open space in the city.
Hiroshima Airport (HIJ) connects to domestic destinations in Japan. Both ANA and JAL offer flights from Tokyo Haneda and Sapporo Chitose airports. ANA also offers flights from Tokyo Narita, Sendai and Okinawa. There are also international flights to and from Bali, Beijing, Shanghai, Seoul and Taipei. Bangkok Airways also (since 2006) flies directly to Hiroshima from Bangkok.
Buses connect the airport to Hiroshima station (50 minutes, ¥1300).
Hiroshima is a major station on the Sanyo Shinkansen line. It is 40 minutes away from Okayama (¥5860 by Nozomi) and 90 minutes from Shin-Osaka (¥9950 by Nozomi). Regular local and rapid trains on the Sanyo Line reach Hiroshima in as little as 6 hours (¥5460).
From Tokyo it is four hours via Nozomi; five hours via Hikari (change trains once at Shin-Osaka or Okayama). Be very careful about taking a Kodama for the last leg of the journey; Hikari and Kodama services are valid under the Japan Rail Pass, but the all-stations Kodama service will add up to two hours to your trip.
Cheaper but slower local services radiate out to other cities in the region.
The Hayabusa overnight sleeper train leaves Tokyo daily at 6 PM, arriving in Hiroshima at around 5:20 the next morning. A later alternative from Tokyo is to take the 10 PM Sunrise Izumo/Seto train to Okayama, then take the San'yo Shinkansen to Hiroshima, arriving around 7:30 the next day.
The New Breeze overnight bus runs from Tokyo to Hiroshima. There are two nightly departures in each direction: From Tokyo, departing at 20:00 and 21:00, with both buses arriving in Hiroshima at 8:00 the next day. From Hiroshima, departing at 19:00 and 20:00, with both buses arriving in Tokyo at 7:00 the next day. The trip costs ¥11600 one way, ¥21200 round trip.
Daytime express buses run from Osaka to Hiroshima. There are five departures daily, and the travel time is five hours each way. It costs ¥5000 one way, ¥9000 round trip.
There are also overnight buses from Osaka: The Sanyo Dream Hiroshima from Osaka Station and the Venus from the Namba bus terminal. Both buses take between 6 and 7 1/2 hours to make their journeys, and cost ¥5700 one way, ¥11000 round trip.
There are also two daily buses, and one overnight bus, from Kyoto. The daytime buses take 5 1/2 hours (¥5500 one way, ¥10000 round trip) and the overnight bus takes 6 hours (¥6300 one way, ¥11400 round trip).
Daytime buses also run from cities such as Okayama, Fukuyama, Takamatsu and Fukuoka.
[edit] By ferry
Ferries run from Hiroshima's Ujina Port, which also serves as terminus for several tram lines. Ishizaki Ferry operates daily boat service to Matsuyama in Shikoku, with some boats stopping in Kure (呉). The ride takes 70-80 minutes to reach Matsuyama and costs ¥6300 each way. Slower ferries depart on different schedules and arrive in about 2 1/2 hours at a cost of only ¥2700 each way.
[edit] By tram
Hiroshima city tram
Hiroshima is the last major city in Japan with an extensive tram (streetcar) network, Hiroden (広電). It's a slow but reliable way of getting around. The trams themselves are a mix of old rattle-traps and new "Green Movers", although both run on the same lines for the same fares. There's no difference other than the smoothness of the ride. (During the summer, open-air trams are an extremely rare but occasional sight.) Most lines start or finish at JR Hiroshima Station, and they run frequently during daytime and evening hours. Trips within the city are a flat ¥150, while trundling out all the way to Miyajima will set you back ¥280. One-day passes are available for ¥600 (¥300 children), or ¥840 (¥420 children) including the ferry to Miyajima.
Bus lines run through Hiroshima and out to the suburbs. Generally speaking, these serve areas more likely to be used by locals than visitors, but bus #30 does run to the Hiroshima Youth Hostel. Signs include English, and the bus depot is next to the tram depot in front of JR Hiroshima Station.
[edit] By sightseeing bus
Sightseeing buses run to a few of the major sights from JR Hiroshima Station at 9am, 10am and 1pm. Look for the bus stops and route maps on the shinkansen side of the station, near the Hotel Granvia.
[edit] By metro
The modern (if strangely named) Astram links the city center with its northern suburbs. It is useful if you want to visit the Hiroshima Asa Zoo, or watch a professional San Frecce J-League soccer game at the Big Arch stadium.
[edit] By bike
If you want to cycle around Hiroshima, walk left along the main street in front of the station for 5 minutes to the Nippon car rental shop, where you can rent bicycles for the day. Hiroshima is a great city for cycling. The paths along the many branches of the Otagawa River offer a much more enjoyable ride than the sidewalks. To their credit, though, most of the streets and sidewalks in Hiroshima are wider and less crowded than ones in Tokyo or Kyoto, so you'll at least have a bit more room to maneuver.
[edit] Atomic bombing
A-Bomb Dome
The following memorials related to the bombing are all clustered in Peace Memorial Park (平和公園 Heiwa-kōen), reachable by tram line 2 or 6 to Genbaku Domu-mae. Coming from JR Hiroshima Station, you'll see the Peace Park on your left and the baseball stadium on your right, just before crossing the Aioi Bridge - which was thought to be the target of the atomic bomb.
The International Exchange Office (Tel. 082-247-9715. Open 9am - 7pm May-Nov., 10am - 6pm Dec. - Apr.) near the center of the Peace Park can provide English-language information about any of the many statues and memorials that are dotted throughout the park.
Kannon statue draped with origami cranes, Peace Memorial Park
* Hiroshima Peace Memorial. Better known as the A-Bomb Dome (原爆ドーム Genbaku Dōmu) is Hiroshima's best-known symbol. Formerly the Prefectural Industrial Promotional Hall, it was designed by Czech architect Jan Letzel and completed in 1915. The fanciful green dome in particular made the building a much-loved symbol in Hiroshima before the war. When the atomic bomb was dropped on August 6, 1945, the explosion is thought to have taken place almost directly above the building. Its skeletal remains were among the few buildings left standing in the entire city. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996 amid some controversy - the United States and China both voted against the nomination for reasons related to the war, and some Japanese continue to find it a disturbing sight. It has become a symbol of the city once again, though, and the benches around the building are as likely to be occupied by Hiroshima natives reading, eating lunch or simply relaxing as they are by tourists.
* Peace Memorial Museum (平和記念資料館 Heiwa Kinen Shiryōkan) (March - Nov. 8:30am to 6pm, Dec. - Feb. to 5pm, Aug. to 7pm. Closed 12/29 - 1/1) [2]. This heart-wrenching museum documents the bomb and its aftermath, complete with scale models of "before" and "after", melted children's tricycles and a harrowing recreation of a post-blast Hiroshima street. The first floor describes the events leading up to the bomb and attempts to give a sense of what Hiroshima was like before the war. The second floor contains a number of displays and artifacts related to the day of the bombing. Some of these are extremely graphic, evocative and - consequently - disturbing. The rest of the museum describes the post-war struggles of the hibakusha (bomb survivors) and the state of nuclear weapons in the world today. Entry costs a token ¥50, and audio guides are available for an additional donation. Be warned: a visit here, while by all means worthwhile, will ruin your day. Allow plenty of time afterward to decompress. Shukkeien (below) is a good destination for that purpose.
* The Cenotaph for the A-bomb Victims is a saddle-shaped concrete memorial containing the names of persons who died from the bombing, "regardless of nationality". Under the arch is a flame which, it is said, will not be extinguished until the last nuclear weapons are gone from the earth. Beyond the cenotaph is a pond leading toward the A-Bomb Dome.
* Hiroshima National Peace Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims (March - July, Sep. - Nov. 8:30am - 6pm, Aug. to 7pm, Dec. - Feb. to 5pm. Closed 12/29 - 1/1. Admission free) [3]. Next to the Cenotaph, this museum is dedicated collecting names and photographs of people who died in the blast. The entrance of the museum leads downward to a quiet hall for contemplation, and then back up again, to a set of kiosks with compelling stories and recollections from survivors (in English and Japanese).
* Statue of the A-Bomb Children. Perennially draped in thousands and thousands of origami paper cranes, folded by schoolchildren across Japan in memory of bomb victim Sadako Sasaki. Dying of leukemia in 1954, she was told an old folk tale according to which anybody who folds over 1000 cranes will have her wish come true; she managed 642 before her death in 1955 at the age of twelve.
[edit] Gardens and castles
Bridges in Shukkeien
* Shukkeien (縮景園). While not officially one of Japan's Top 3, this is a compact and beautifully landscaped Japanese garden well worth a visit. Despite more and more high-rises peeping over the trees recently, it can feel like an entirely different world. Little paths crossing ponds on bridges and winding their way around graceful teahouses and waterfalls. Open daily 9 AM to 6 PM, entry ¥250. Get there on tram line 9, stop Shukkeien-mae. It's behind the Prefectural Art Museum, and combined admission tickets are available. The garden is especially pretty in spring when the cherry blossoms are in bloom, in the fall with the Koyo, vibrant colors of the fall leaves, and in winter when the park is covered in a light dusting of snow.
* Hiroshima Castle (広島城 Hiroshima-Rijō). The castle is a fun place to walk around or jog around- there is a 1.5km running path that circles the castle grounds outside the moat. There is a small kids playpark on one side and its a nice place to sit and relax for a while. Kids have fun spotting the fish that swim in the moat as well as turtles. It's just across the street from Chuo Park. The grounds of the castle and the banks of the moat are great places to view the 350 or so cherry trees that come into bloom in early April. The castle museum is a ferroconcrete reconstruction of the 16th century, 5-story Donjon, well worth a look if you are interested in a bit of culture. There are amazing relics and armor to see (and try on!) as well as informative displays about the history of the castle and the city. The view from the top is worth the entrance fee all by itself.
o The castle grounds also house a monument to Chinese workers killed by the atomic bomb, which was not allowed into the Memorial Park for political reasons.
* Hijiyama-koen is a huge park to the south of JR Hiroshima Station, between two branches of the river. (Follow Ekimae-dori from the station to the southeast, and you'll walk directly into it.) There are the usual areas for sitting in the sun (and rather a lot of stray cats), but much of the park remains refreshingly undeveloped forest land. The Museum of Contemporary Art and the Manga Museum are within the grounds of the park, as is a futuristic long tunnel / escalator to the SATY grocery store / shopping mall / movie theater. One of the very few remaining structures from before the atomic bomb is also on the outskirts of the park. Walk up toward the park on the street branching off from the Hijiyamashita tram stop. You'll see a temple on your left. Just past the temple is a set of stone steps heading back toward the tram stop. At the top of the steps is a small house and an explanatory plaque. (Notice the vane at the top of the house, warped from the heat of the bomb.) Please note that while visitors are welcome in the front yard, the rest of the area is private property, including the house itself.
[edit] Other museums
* The Hiroshima Museum of Art (3-2 Motomachi, Naka-ku, Tel. 082-223-2530. Open 9am - 5pm, closed 12/29 - 1/2; admission ¥1200 adults, ¥900 high school students, ¥500 junior high and elementary school students) [4] was established by the Hiroshima Bank in 1978. The permanent collection covers European art from late Romanticism to early Picasso, including a couple of Japanese painters who painted in Western styles. It's a ruthlessly stratified selection: at least one painting by every Famous Artist of the period, but no major works by any of them. It's on the other side of Jonan-dori from Hiroshima Castle. Take tram lines 1, 2 or 6 to Kamiya-cho (a big intersection just before the Peace Park) and walk two minutes north. It's included in the route of the sightseeing buses that leave from JR Hiroshima Station.
* The Hiroshima Prefectural Museum of Art (2-22 Kaminobori-cho, Naka-ku, Tel. 082-221-6246. Open 9am - 5pm, until 7pm on Saturday, closed Sunday and 12/25 - 1/1. Admission ¥500, ¥300 for college students, children free) [5] has a good permanent collection of modern European art, including major works by Dali and Magritte, and a a few modern Japanese artists as well. Special exhibitions are of a generally high quality, ranging from Persian carpets to The Legend of Ultraman. It's located in front of Shukkeien, east of Hiroshima Castle, a couple blocks north of Jonan-dori and Hakushima-dori.
* The Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art (1-1 Hijiyama-Koen, Minami-Ku, Tel. 082-264-1121. Open 10am - 5pm, closed Mondays, national holidays, Tuesdays after national holidays that fall on a Monday, August 6th, and 12/29 - 1/3. Admission ¥360 for adults, ¥270 for college students and ¥170 for other students; free November 3rd) [6] is probably the most worthy of a visit among Hiroshima's three art museums. There are a few famous Western names in its collection, including Andy Warhol and Frank Stella, but the real emphasis is on interesting modern Japanese artists working in their own styles, and the exhibition designers make creative use of the museum space. Special exhibitions cost extra. There is a sculpture garden outside that can be visited for free, and a decent city-view from the plaza near the museum's front steps. (Head past the giant sloping gate-sculpture.) See the directions to Hijiyama-koen above.
* The Manga Library / Museum is around the corner from the Museum of Contemporary Art.
* Mazda Museum (Mukainada-cho Shinchi 3-1, Tel. 082-252-5050) [7]. Mazda's corporate headquarters are a short distance outside of Hiroshima. They offer free tours every weekday at 9:30am and 1:00pm in Japanese, and 1:00pm in English. The tour is a must for any automobile fan. Space is limited, and they ask that you call first to make a reservation. If you have any serious technical questions then you should go on the Japanese tour and bring along your own interpreter. The English tour guides are not very knowledgeable. The tour will begin with a historical view of the Mazda company from its early days making three-wheeled trucks and cork, to the present day Renesis Wankel Rotary Engine. Highlights include the Mazda Cosmos (the world's first Rotary Engine car) and the 4-Rotor Mazda 787B, which is the only Japanese car to win at Le Mans. From there you will be taken to see how the design and build process works at their Ujina plant, and you will be taken onto the actual assembly line to see the latest Mazda vehicles being made. The tour concludes with a view of Mazda's attempts to make Hydrogen fueled cars and some of their concept vehicles. Take the San-yo line two stops east to JR Mukainada, head two blocks south, turn right and cross the street.
* Hiroshima's Transportation Museum. Located on the outskirts of the city, the transportation museum has many exhibits and interactive games. Outside, behind the museum, they have a track with many different, odd, funny and interesting kinds of bicycles to ride. It's great fun for children.
* Hiroshima Children's Museum and Library. Also a must-see for kids, with a planetarium on the top floor and full of fun scientific games for kids to play and learn from.
* Hiroshima Family Pool. Open from July 1st-August 31st every year, this huge open-air pool is a popular place for kids and families to beat the heat. It becomes an ice-skating rink in the winter. Skates are available for rental, although they're pretty beat-up.
* Hiroshima Carp Professional Baseball. Hiroshima's entry in Japanese professional baseball, the much-beloved and bemoaned Carp play in a stadium across the street from the Peace Memorial Park. A new stadium is being built outside the city center for use in a couple seasons. While the team doesn't win much, the enthusiasm of the fans can hardly be faulted, and Hiroshima is as good a place as any to witness the fervor of Japanese baseball fandom. Get a seat in the bleachers, though, ideally on the right-field side - that's where the drums, chants and excitement are. (The reserved seats are oddly tame by comparison, and the left-field bleachers put you close to the area set aside for the fans of the visiting team.) Bleacher seats are ¥1500 and can usually be bought on the day of the game.
[edit] Learn
* Hiroshima International Center. Tel. 082-541-3777. In the Crystal Plaza building on the corner of Heiwa Odori (Peace Boulevard) opposite the Hokke Club Hotel. You can get free Japanese language and culture lessons here.
[edit] Work
Hiroshima features the standard array of English teaching opportunities, from JET (Japanese Exchange Teaching) to branches of the major eikaiwa like NOVA, Geos, AEON and ECC. Companies in the Hiroshima area hire contract workers from Southeast Asian and South Pacific nations for industries like ship-building, notably in Kure, a short distance from Hiroshima. Some non-Japanese work legally or under-the-radar as bartenders or sell jewelry in Nagarekawa.
The city center is packed with shopping areas. Across the street from JR Hiroshima Station is Fukuya, which has a good selection of English language fiction and travel books on the tenth floor. DeoDeo and Best / Yamada Denki are the major electronics stores. There's a towering Denki to your left as you exit JR Hiroshima Station, and a big DeoDeo on Aioi-dori close to the Peace Park.
Hiroshima has a few major department stores, including the aforementioned Fukuya and SOGO, which also has a good foreign language book section (6th floor), across the street from the Peace Park. For the latest in Japanese teen fashion, though, PARCO is the place to look. It's in a towering concrete block - just look up - on Hachobori and Hon-dori. Club Quattro is on the top floor of PARCO, and it plays host to most touring bands that deign to visit Hiroshima. The covered shopping streets of Hon-dori (本通り）have plenty of small shops for all purposes, especially clothing. SunMall, at the far end of Hon-dori, has CDs and Uniqlo, which has good, cheap clothing with larger sizes than most Japanese stores.
A tip for souvenir hunters on a tight budget: check out the fourth floor of the DeoDeo just off Hon-dori, next to the old Hiroshima Bank building. There is a 100 yen shop with an improbably excellent selection of distinctively Japanese souvenirs: pottery, sake sets, art, statuettes, signs and cheap ukiyo-e. It's on the left side of the store. Remember, nobody at home knows you only paid 100 yen for it!
Hiroshima is famous for its style of okonomiyaki (お好み焼き), which literally means "cook it as you like it". Often (and somewhat misleadingly) called "Japanese pizza", this is essentially a type of savoury pancake made with egg, cabbage, soba noodles and meat (or fish). It is grilled in layers on a hot plate in front of you and slathered liberally with okonomiyaki sauce and options that can include mayonnaise, pickled ginger and seaweed. It sounds and looks like a mess, but can be very tasty and filling if done well. Hiroshima style and Osaka style are the two competing types of okonomiyaki, and if you raise the subject of okonomiyaki with a local, be ready to state your preference between the two.
Hiroshima is also famous for its oysters and a maple-leaf-shaped pastry called momiji manjū (もみじ饅頭). Momiji is the leaf of a Japanese maple tree. Momiji manjū are available with a variety of fillings, including the more traditional anko (あんこ) or red bean and matcha (抹茶) or green tea. It's also available in cream cheese, custard, apple and chocolate flavors. Momiji manjū are considered the quintessential Hiroshima souvenir.
Hiroshima also has a lot of great Japanese and international restaurants, so you'll be able to find pretty much any kind of food you want in the city. If you're pressed for time on your way out of town, the sixth floor of JR Hiroshima Station has several restaurants, including STEP, a decent okonomiyaki joint with English menus. (There's also a McDonald's on the first floor of the tram side, and on the second floor of the shinkansen side.)
* Bikkuri Ramen (びっくりラーメン). The cheapest eats in town, at ¥180 for a, well, decent bowl of ramen. Take the price to ¥367 for six gyoza, or ¥598 to add a bowl of rice and some kara-age (fried chicken). There are two shops within a block of JR Hiroshima station, and a couple more near Hon-dori - look for the red and yellow '180' sign.
* Grazie Gardens (グラジエ　ガーデンズ). A cheap and tasty Italian on Hondori near Parco department store. It's above a shop called Ships.
* Okonomi-mura (お好み村). 3-3 Nakamachi, Naka-ku. A two-story building packed with no less than 27 okonomiyaki shops. It's right behind PARCO, with a distinctive 'Okonomi-mura' arch out front. They all serve okonomiyaki, and they'll all start clamoring for your business as soon as you walk through the door. Figure on ¥1000 for a meal.
* Okonomi Monogatari Ekimae-Hiroba (お好み物語 駅前広場). Another okonomiyaki village, with almost twenty shops sharing the same floor, in a vaguely Edo-ish atmosphere. This one is across the street from JR Hiroshima station, next to the Fukuya department store and across from the central post office, on the 6th floor. (You'll see a banner sign outside.) Meals run about ¥900.
* Nanak, 2-2 Fukuromachi, Naka-ku, ☎ 082-243-7900. 10am-3pm, 5pm-10pm. Probably the biggest of Hiroshima's many good Indian restaurants. Individual sets are available, but ordering as a group is the best value. It's easily recognized by the uniformed fellow in the window booth facing the street, hard at work on the day's curry and oblivious to the passersby. English menus are available. Lunch sets from ¥700, dinner from ¥2300.
* Nono Budo, in the Sogo-Pacela Credo building. An all non-smoking, healthy "viking" buffet style Japanese restaurant in Pacela offering a ¥1575 for lunch (¥2100 for dinner) all you can eat & drink deal (no alcohol). A great selection of juices, teas, and coffees. If you want nomihōdai (飲み放題）(all you can drink) for alcohol, add on another 1900 yen. The menu offers a wide selection of curries, tempura, and other Japanese dishes, some made with organic products, most foods are made with ingredients from in and around Hiroshima.
* Roopali, Hiroshima-city, Higashi-ku, Wakakusacho 14-32, ☎ 082-264-1333. 11:30am-2:30pm, 5pm-9:30pm; Sundays 11:30am-9:30pm. The best food in the under-developed area on the shinkansen side of JR Hiroshima station - coming out of the gates, head up to the main street and turn right. It's about a block away. A wide range of curries are on offer, and there is plenty to eat for vegetarians. The thali sets are good and filling. Comprehensive English menus are available, and it's kid-friendly to boot. If you're just arriving in Hiroshima on an empty stomach, you can't get much better than this. Sets from ¥2000.
* Spicy Bar Lal's, Hiroshima-shi, Naka-ku, Tatemachi 5-12, ☎ 082-504-6328. 11am-2:30pm, 5pm-10pm. Indian and Nepali cuisine, with several good course dinners for individuals and pairs. Befitting the name, they're specific about their spiciness: you can choose a strength from 1-100. Basic English menus are available. It's just off Hon-dori, near the post office. Lunch sets from ¥880, dinner sets from ¥2100.
* Floating Oyster Boat, Kanawa. Hiroshima is famous for oysters and this high class floating restaurant offers the highest quality oysters and seafood all year round. Wait staff serve in Kimonos and the view is romantic and relaxing. Located just across Peace Boulevard, South of Peace Park. Expect to pay ¥7,000-¥15,000 per person not including drinks.
* Shabuchin Shabu Shabu dip fresh meat and vegetables in a hot sauce to lightly cook it before dipping it in a savory sauce to eat. Small, friendly, family run shabu shabu restaurant in fashionable Jizo-dori. They make their own sauces and all the ingredients are of high quality and superfresh. Expect to pay from ¥3,000-¥5,000 per person including drinks.
* Sumojaya Takabayama Chanko Nabe- the food of sumo wrestlers is a filling, fun and healthy dish for anyone to enjoy, especially on colder days. Expect to pay ¥4,000-¥8,000 per person including drinks. Much cheaper lunch deals available.
Nagarekawa hosts the highest concentration of bars in Hiroshima, but there are a host of quiet wine bars on Hakushima-dori, and plenty of foreigner-friendly pubs around the giant PARCO building. Yagenbori-dori street is full of bars and clubs that are spread across all the floors of the high-rise buildings along the street.
* Kulcha is a popular bar just off Hondori. If you're walking towards Parco from Rijo-dori, take a right at Andersens. Walk one block down (past Daiei supermarket) and turn left. The bar is on the right. It's frequented mainly by foreign teachers and tourists and is known for its monthly theme parties and televised rugby and soccer games.
* Mac Bar is another bar worth visiting. The bar owner is chatty and has a substantial collection of rock CDs. He's only happy to take requests. Mac Bar is located in the Nagarekawa district, so be careful going there alone.
* Molly Malone's is another popular foreigner hang-out on Chuo-dori, across the street from PARCO. (Look for the giant orange neon .AU sign - that's the view from the windows inside the bar.) Rugby and soccer games are also shown here. It has a good menu of pub food, desserts and imported beer.
Saijo, in Higashi-Hiroshima, is famous for its sake and the annual Sake Festival in October. For a small admission fee, attendees can drink their fill of sake from local breweries. In short order, the festival area turns into a wild (yet reasonably well-behaved) display of public drunkenness involving people of all ages. Outside the festival area, tours of sake breweries are also available. Box-like wooden sake cups are available as souvenirs for your visit.
* Business Ryokan Sansui, 4-16 Koami-cho Naka-ku, Hiroshima, Hiroshime Pref. 730-0855, ☎ 082-293-9051 (sansui@ccv.ne.jp, fax: 082-233-2377). Located a fair hike from JR Hiroshima Station but only a few minutes away from the Peace Park. The owners ask for reservations to be made three weeks in advance. Take tram 2 or 3 to the Koami-cho stop. ¥4200 single, ¥7500 double, ¥10,500 triple.
* Capsule Inn Hiroshima (カプセルイン広島), Yagenbori 4-6, ☎ 082-248-0101. Available only for male visitors. In the Shintechi Entertainment District, halfway between JR Hiroshima station and the Peace Memorial Park; on Aioi-dori, after M5 Kanayama-cho tram stop, turn left at the corner with a post office. Enter the sixth small street on the left. (There are actually two hotels on the both sides of the street.) Has a decent sento (hot bath) for guests. While many sento disallow tattooed guests, this one is fine with them. ¥2300 per capsule, ¥100 per hour for checking in early, and another ¥100 to put your passport/valuables in the safety deposit box behind the front desk.
* Hiroshima Youth Hostel, ☎ 082-221-5343, [8]. About the cheapest accommodation available in Hiroshima; the rate includes sheet and air conditioning charge. Off the beaten path, but well worth the savings. They do lock the doors at midnight, though. Take Bus #30 from JR Hiroshima Station. ¥2000 per night.
* Mikawa Ryokan, 9-6 Kyobashi-cho, Minami-ku, Hiroshima, Hiroshima Pref. 732-0828, ☎ 082-261-2719 (fax: 082-263-2706). About 7 minutes from JR Hiroshima Station. Has a dodgy claim to the title of "ryokan", but it's cheap. ¥3675 single, ¥6300 double, ¥9450 triple.
* Minshuku Ikedaya, 6-36 Dobashi-cho, Naka-ku, ☎ 082-231-3329. The rooms at this minshuku are clean, bright, and pleasant. The staff speak enough English to get you checked in, although you may not see a trace of them afterward. Take tram lines 2 or 6 to the Dobashi stop and walk about two minutes; look for the "Ikedaya" signs outside. Single rooms with/without bath from ¥4200 to ¥5775; double rooms from ¥7350 to ¥9450.
* Comfort Hotel Hiroshima (コンフォートホテル広島), 3-17 Komachi. Conveniently located near the Peace Park and opposite the Chuden-mae tram stop.
* Dormy Inn. Centrally located along Heiwa Odori, this is a comfortable and friendly full-service hotel with Western rooms, free laundry facilities (with soap) and a great Japanese style sento bath for guests to enjoy any time of day.
* Hiroshima Grand Intelligent Hotel, 1-4 Kyobashi-cho Minami-ku, 732-0828, ☎ 082-263-5111 (fax: 082-262-2403), [9]. A big (twelve floors), pleasant Western-style hotel on the other side of the Ekimae bridge from JR Hiroshima Station. Breakfast is served for ¥1350 buffet, ¥600 toast set. LAN internet access is available in every room. Rooms from ¥6195.
* Hiroshima Intelligent Hotel Annex, 3-27 Inari-machi Minami-ku, 732-0827, ☎ 082-263-7878 (fax: 082-263-7892), [10]. About halfway between JR Hiroshima Station and the Peace Memorial Park.
* Ikawa Ryokan, 5-11 Dobashi-cho, Naka-ku, Hiroshima, Hiroshima Pref. 730-0854, ☎ 082-231-5058 (ikawa@go.enjoy.ne.jp, fax: 082-231-5995). Take tram 2 or 3 from JR Hiroshima station to the Dobashi-cho stop. ¥5775-4725 single rooms with/without bath, ¥9450-8400 double, ¥14,175-12,600 triple.
* Toyoko Inn Heiwa Odori, [11]. An affordable business hotel on Heiwa Odori, and within walking distance from the Peace Park. Also has a small shuttle from Hiroshima Station. This is one of several Toyoko Inns in Hiroshima.
* Via Inn (Tel. 082-264-5489; single rooms from ¥6195) [12] is a tall business hotel with tiny rooms but a fair number of amenities. It's tucked away behind the Hiroshima Post Office, next to JR Hiroshima Station. Head between Kohi-kan and the Daily-In convenience store to find the front desk.
* Hotel Granvia (1-5 Matsubara-cho, Minami-ku; Tel. 082-262-1111. Single, double and twin rooms from ¥10,700 - ¥20,200.) [13]. Located right outside the shinkansen gates of JR Hiroshima Station, this will be the most convenient hotel for any late-arriving travelers, but like the station, it's 10-15 minutes away from downtown and the Peace Park.
* Rihga Royal Hiroshima (6-78, Motomachi, Naka-ku, Tel. 082-502-1121. Single, double and twin rooms from ¥13,000 to ¥ 30,000.) [14]. Centrally located near Peace Park in the middle of downtown, near the Hiroshima Carp stadium, this is a luxury hotel. It is the tallest building in Hiroshima. Baseball fans take note: this is where visiting teams stay when they're in town, so the lobby is a good place to pick up autographs.
[edit] Contact
There are two 24-hour internet cafes next to JR Hiroshima Station. GIGA is on the sixth floor of the building immediately to your left as you walk out of the station. It serves free drinks and soft-serve ice cream for about ¥500 per hour. Just as for an "open seat". On the other side of the street, on the fifth floor of the building next to Fukuya and across the street from the post office, is the elegant A'precio, which serves an even wider variety of free drinks, ice cream and hot soup, and includes a pool table toward the back.
Hiroshima has a rough reputation among Japanese people from other cities, thanks largely to the 1971 Bunta Sugawara gangster classic Battles Without Honor and Humanity (also known as The Yakuza Papers) and its four sequels, which were filmed here. In reality, though, it's much safer than any large Western city. As with most places in Japan, scams and petty theft are virtually non-existent. The nightlife district does have its share of prostitutes, sex clubs and rip-off hostess bars, but to no less extent than Tokyo or Osaka. There have been a few surprise police raids on bars that offer dancing after 1am, in accordance with a semi-obscure local law about public immorality that Hiroshima suddenly feels compelled to enforce - probably in order to catch people who are in the country illegally. Japanese citizens are generally allowed to leave right away, but foreigners have been made to stand in line to have their paperwork checked. If you find yourself in one of these situations, just stay calm, show the police your passport, and you'll be allowed to leave without any trouble.
[edit] Cope
Mother and child, Peace Memorial Park
Hiroshima is a safe and friendly city, so travelers shouldn't have any problems out of the ordinary. The average English level among Hiroshima residents is relatively high for a Japanese city, particularly around the Peace Memorial Park. Directions to the major sights are also very clearly sign-posted in English throughout the city.
As mentioned above, visiting the sights related to the atomic bomb can be an intense experience. If you only have one day set aside for Hiroshima, you'll naturally wind up spending most of it at the atomic bomb memorials. For your own peace of mind, though, try to set aside time to relax and reflect in other parts of the city - either at one of the pleasant, sprawling parks around the city center, such as the one around Hiroshima Castle or Hijiyama-koen, or if your time is short, during a walk along one of the riverside trails, which are easy to reach from anywhere in the city.
Hiroshima is a very popular school trip destination for Japanese kids, and you're virtually guaranteed to be accosted by kids working on school projects, asking you (in halting English) where you're from, what your name is and whether you think nuclear bombs are a good thing. Good luck coming up with a snappy answer, but if their teacher is around, you can trying asking them back whether Japan would have used the bomb if they had come up with it first.
* Miyajima is an easy day-trip from Hiroshima - only a short tram and ferry trip away. It's one of the Three Great Views in Japan and has a UNESCO World Heritage Site - Itsukushima Shrine and the famous floating torii gate. It also offers some terrific hiking opportunities.
* A longer ferry ride could take you to Matsuyama for a day at the famed Dogo Onsen.
* Iwakuni, about 45 minutes away by train, features the famed Kintai-kyo samurai bridge and a scenic castle reconstruction - as well as a U.S. Marine Corps Air Station.
* Onomichi, a hillside town of temples and Japanese novelists, 75 minutes away by train.
* Okayama is the other major transit hub for the region, about 45 minutes by shinkansen, and it offers access to the museums and canal of Kurashiki.
* Aki no Kofuji. Off the beaten track, old style Japanese village, a great hike and wonderful views.
written by  garisti on April 1, 2008 from Hiroshima, Japan

Beijing, China
Beijing (北京) is the capital of the most populous country in the world, the People's Republic of China. It was also the seat of the Ming and Qing dynasty emperors until the formation of a republic in 1911. As such it is rich in historical sites and important government institutions.
The city is well known for its flatness and regular construction. There is only one hill to be found in the city limits (in Jingshan Park to the north of the famous Forbidden City). Like the configuration of the Forbidden City, Beijing has concentric "ring roads", which are actually rectangular, that go around the metropolis.
The International Olympic Committee has decided that Beijing will serve as the host city for the Games of the XXIX Olympiad, the Summer Olympic Games of 2008.
Beijing literally means "northern capital", a role it has played many times in China's long history. While various small towns and warlord capitals have been traced back as far as the 1st millennium BCE, Beijing first served as the capital of a (more or less) united China in 1264 when Kublai Khan's victorious Mongol forces set up the city of Dadu (大都, "Great Capital") to rule their new empire, from a northern location closer to the Mongol homelands.
After the fall of the Mongol Yuan dynasty in 1368, the capital was moved back to Nanjing ("southern capital"), but in 1403, the 3rd Ming emperor Zhu Di moved it to Beijing again and also gave the city its present name. This was Beijing's golden era: the Forbidden City, the Temple of Heaven and many other Beijing landmarks were built at this time. Beijing remained the capital into the Qing era and into the revolutionary ferment of the early 1900s, but in the chaos following the abdication of the last Emperor, Beijing was beset by fighting warlords. The Kuomintang thus moved the capital to Nanjing again in 1928, renaming Beijing as Beiping (北平, "Northern Peace") to emphasize that it was no longer a capital. However, the Kuomintang was eventually defeated by the Communists, who in 1949 proclaimed the People's Republic of China with its capital at Beijing.
Many tourist areas in Beijing are under renovation for the 2008 Olympics. The Forbidden City, Temple of Heaven, and Summer Palace all had sections under renovation as of the middle of March 2006. Sources say some of the renovations have been completed and moved onto other sections. As a plus ticket prices were reduced for these exhibits because of the closed off sections. Just be aware before the Olympics there may be continued renovations.
* Forbidden City (故宫 gù gōng) (also known as the Palace Museum) get there when the gates open (around 8.30am) if you want to walk through the vast and spectacular courtyards in relative peace. This is truly the spot to appreciate the might and grandeur of the Imperial Chinese court during the height of its power in Ming and Qing dynasties. Despite the transformation of the city around it, the Forbidden City remains mercifully relatively untouched. A few years ago there was a lot of local fuss when a Starbucks coffee shop opened in the Forbidden City, some interpreting this as a return to the bad old days of colonial domination. Despite the fuss it is still there, on an inconspicuous corner, and still serving coffee. Only 2/5 area of the palace is opened, but some places are under restorations and will be opened before 2008.
Tiananmen Square
* Tiananmen Square (天安门 Tiānān mén) (largest square in the world!) Built by Mao to impress; his riposte to the Forbidden City, the square is surrounded by Soviet-style monuments and government buildings, and houses Mao's mausoleum at the end opposite the entrance to the Forbidden City. It remains an astounding place and a spot to linger and see visitors from all over China, many visiting their capital for the first time. There is a flag raising and lowering ceremony at dawn and dusk. There are 4 marble lions in front of the Tiananmen gate, the northwest one has a bullet hole on its stomach.
* Temple of Heaven (天坛 Tiāntán), south east of Qianmen and the Tiananmen Square. Not only a fine sight, but also surrounded by a lively public park, filled with local residents practicing tai chi, dancing and so on in the mornings and at weekends. A must-see in Beijing.
Summer Palace [March 2006]
* Summer Palace (颐和园 Yíhé yuán) extensive gardens and the ruins of palaces constructed by the Qing emperors. Most visitors stay in the front hill area, but if you prefer quiet places, the west bank and back hill areas are good choices. There are some quiet and secret ruins, caves, and other fun stuff in the back hill area.
* Zoo (北京动物园) (they do have Pandas, but displays are not great, your best bet is to go to the Panda Breeding Centre in Chengdu, Sichuan Province). Some think the Zoo is one of the worst you will ever see (partly because of the way they treat animals), BUT the aquarium is one of the biggest in the world, and very impressive. The Zoo was built on the sites of some ancient gardens, has lakes, pounds, pavilions and other beautiful old buildings. The Soviet revival Beijing Exhibition Hall is located nearby and has a Russian restaurant, "Moscow Restaurant".
* Winter Palace (北海 Běihǎi) - Beihai is a good place to take a glance at Zhongnanhai (中南海 Zhōngnánhǎi), heart of Communist China. There's a big island and white pagoda which was built in the 17th century. The giant buildings westward outside are PRC's Ministry of Defence and General Staff, which, to be honest, ruin the scene of the west bank. On the north bank, you can visit some small but beautiful gardens.
* Yonghegong (雍和宮 Yōnghégōng) - (also known as Lama Temple or Palace of Peace) The temple was built by Chinese emperors who harbored a deep fascination for the Tibetan (Tantric) version of Buddhism. Over the years many Tibetan and Mongolian monks lived and taught here, and there are still monks in residence today. The temple is famous for its 18m statue of Maitreya Buddha carved from a single piece of sandalwood.
* Prince Gong's Mansion(恭王府 gong1 wang2 fu3) - The garden is fulled with Chinese tourists, and the mansion will be opened as a museum before 2008, which will display the life of princes during the Qing dynasty
* Legation Quarter - east of Tiananmen Square, once famous in the Boxer Rebellion, the legation quarter is now occupied by government offices and army offices but can still be seen from outside. There's a wonderful bakery store called "Sapporo" near the legation quarter, famous for its breads and cheesecakes.
* Beijing Botanical Garden and Fragrant Hill(香山 xiang1 shan1) - good place for weekend outings and picnics. The Fragrant Hill was a Qing imperial garden, burnt in 1860 but restored to its original grandeur, and famous for its mountain paths through the gardens as well as the Fragrant Hill Hotel, designed by I.M. Pei, designer of the Louvre Museaum Pyramid. The Beijing Botanic Garden, steps away from the east gate of Fragrant Hill, has a silent and beautiful retreat area called Cherry Glen. Sir Johnston, last emperor Puyi's teacher, had a villa in Cherry Glen and is available to visit.
* The Hutong Villages (胡同 hú tòng) of Beijing most represent the traditional housing of Chinese locals. Some of the streets in the Qianmen Hutong (前门胡同) have a history around 500 years, with unchanged street layouts. The Qianmen area is undergoing aggressive restoration and gentrification that will continue through 2010. As a result some of the streets are blocked by construction. The Hutongs are the perfect place to get a glimps of Chinese daily life. The majority of Hutongs have been demolished to make space for modern buildings. For these reasons, the Hutongs are considered very valuable and are a popular tourist attraction. Rickshaws carrying tourists weave in and out of the narrow streets of the Hutong Village to give individuals an up-close look at these homes.
* China Aviation Museum is a must see for all aviation fans. It is located about 50 km outside Beijing in Changping District and is probably better known by the name Datangshan. Best way to get there is to arrange a taxi from your hotel. The other more adventurous way is to take bus 912 from Andingmen bus station, just remember that 912 has some branch lines and not all of these go via museum. Museum hosts over 200 exhibits, many of them very rare. Entrance fee is ¥45.
* Rent a bicycle and traverse some of the remaining hutongs. Companies like The Bicycle Kingdom [2] rent bikes for foreigners.
* Visit Temple of Heaven(天坛) early in the morning to see thousands of Beijingers starting the day with tai chi.
* Have a highly enjoyable and relaxing foot massage and/or pedicure etc. (for a fraction of the price in the West) from any of the respectable and professional offerings in central Beijing (in the vicinity of the Beijing Hotel for example).
* See a Beijing opera at the Laoshe Tea House (老舍茶馆) near Qianmen station. There always are short displays in the afternoon (about 40 min). They are free of admission, but you should buy a cup of tea. Long displays are in the evening. You should book a seat in advance, since the place is always crowded.
Buy
* Throughout nearly all markets in Beijing, bargaining is essential. Especially when browsing through large, "touristy" shopping areas for common items, do not put it beneath your dignity to start bargaining at 5% to 10% of the vendor's initial asking price. After spending some time haggling, never hesitate to threaten walking away, as this is often the quickest way to see a vendor lower his or her prices to a reasonable level.
* The true clothing market where the Chinese buy, is located in Xizhi Men, next to the Zoo. directions: in front of the Zoo there is a new huge building, which is just another big market, BUT behind it, there is the wholesale market, with the best prices, almost no need to bargain, and a lot of genuine goods (clothing).
* The Malls at Oriental Plaza (东方新天地) - East of Tian'anmen Square, next to Wangfujing Street. Shopping area (expensive) but provides you with a lot of buying opportunities from diamonds, to real (affordable) DVD's, (international) Music CD's and food.
* Wangfujing (王府井大街)- where most of the higher end shops are located
* Xidan(西单) - West of Tiananmen square. Several large malls near a substation, and look for the market, it's quite good - bargaining is a must (sellers even enjoy it)!
* Golden Resources Shopping Mall near Yuanda Bridge / Yuanda Road -- Located by West Fourth Ring Road (Xisihuan) in Haidian District, Beijing, the mall covers 680.000 square meters, the second largest in Asia. Multiple stories, snaking alleys, infinite shopping opportunities... you get the gist.
* China World Trade Center (Guomao) -- here you will find a lot of expensive stores and some international convenience stores.
* Silk Street (秀水街) -- 8 East Xiushui Street Jianguo Men Wai Dajie. This building is located east of Tian an men square. It was reopened in March 2005 as a 5 story air conditioned building selling entirely for foreign visitors with 'export' quality goods. You can find luggage, leather bags, clothing and Chinese artwork. This location caters entirely to foreign customers. The place stocks higher 'export' quality merchandise and out-of-season clothing.
* SanLiTun YaShou Clothing Market -- Located at 58 Gongti Beilu, this is very similar to Silk Street (see above) with slightly better prices. Its less touristy than Silk Street, and prices will start far closer to a reasonable sale price. The net result is the bargaining is far less agressive and you will probably feel more comfortable with your purchases here.
* For the more technologically-oriented tourist, Zhong Guan Cun (中关村）is a must. Located a couple miles from Tsinghua University, this area is dubbed "Silicon Valley of China." Sells everything from speakers to computer parts at an astonishingly low price. There are many salesmen who will try to make you go take a look at their shop, it is best to avoid them. If one looks around at the small shops inside the large malls, they may find a box filled with pirated CDs and DVDs, usually selling at 5 to 10 Yuan. Don't have too high an expectation of the quality, though, many of them are 'gun versions' filmed in the cinema with a camcorder. If you really want to buy it, look for '英文' (yingwen) which means English language.
* Sanfo is the leading outdoor gear stores in China and their stores in Beijing are located at Building 4, Entrance 5, Nancun, Madian (Metro 2 to Zhishuitan, bus 315, 344 or 345 to Madian, store is located southside of Bei Sanhuan, west of Madian intersection) and at Jinzhiqiao Dasha, Guomen, Chaoyang District (west entrance of China International Trade Center, continue west along northside of street to east side of second block of buildings).
Eat
The best way to eat good and cheap in Beijing is to enter one of the ubiquitous restaurants where the locals are eating and pick a few different dishes from the menu. Truth be told, anyone familiar with Western currency and prices will find Beijing a very inexpensive city for food, especially considering that tipping is not practiced in China.
Some of the cheapest and delicious meals can be had on the streets. Jiānbĭng guŏzi (煎饼果子) is one of the most popular street snacks, eaten from morning till night. This delicious pancake is cooked with an egg on a griddle, a fried dough crisp is added, and the whole thing is drizzled in scallions and a savory sauce. Hot sauce is optional. Diehard fans often go on a quest for the "best" jiānbĭng cart in the city. This ubiquitous treat only costs ¥2, with an extra egg ¥2.50.
Lamb kebabs (羊肉串 Yángròu chuàn ) and other kebabs are grilled on makeshift stands all around Beijing, from the late afternoon to late at night. Often, the worst looking grills offer the best taste, so be brave and try them all. Wangfujing has a "snack street" selling such mundane fare like lamb, chicken, and beef, but the brave can also sample silkworm, scorpion, and various organs all skewered on a stick and grilled to order.
A winter specialty, candied haw berries (冰糖葫芦 bīngtáng húlu) are dipped in sugar and sold on a stick. You can also find variations with oranges, grapes, strawberries, and bananas, or dipped in crumbled peanuts as well as sugar. This sweet snack can also sometimes be found in the spring and the summer, but the haw berries are often from last season's crop.
[edit] Beijing Roast Duck
This famous Beijing specialty is served at many restaurants, but there are quite a few restaurants dedicated to the art of roasting the perfect duck. Expect to pay around ¥40 per whole duck at budget-range establishments, and ¥160-¥190 at high-end restaurants. Beijing duck (北京烤鸭 bĕijīng kăoyā) is served with thin pancakes, plum sauce (甜面酱　tiánmiàn jiàng)， and slivers of scallions and cucumbers. You dip the duck in the sauce and roll it up in the pancake with a few slivers of scallions and/or cucumbers. The end result is a mouthwatering combination of the cool crunchiness of the cucumber, the sharpness of the scallions, and the rich flavors of the duck.
* Quanjude (全聚德), 32 Qianmen Dajie (前门大街32号), ☎ 6510 9608, [3]. 11:30am-2:30pm and 4:30-8pm. The oldest and most venerable of the roast duck restaurants, Quanjude is slipping these days, but its fame still brings many customers, mostly tourists eager for the "classic" experience. Ducks cost ¥168 each, and quality varies by location. The most reputable of Quanjude's 14 branches is the listed Qianmen location. Other branches are at Hepingmen (south of the subway stop), the east side of Tian'anmen Square, and Qinghua Science Park near Wudaokou.
* Guolin Restaurant (郭林家常菜). This well-kept secret among Chinese people has some of the tastiest and inexpensive ducks in all of Beijing. Half a duck is just ¥28. And all its other delicious, innovative dishes at a fair price keep its customers coming back: be prepared for a bustling, noisy atmosphere. Locations all over Beijing—look for a sign with two little pigs—including at Fangzhuang, Zhongguancun, Wudaokou, Xuanwu, and more.
* Dadong (大董烤鸭店), Tuanjiehu Beikou Bldg. 3, East 3rd Rind Road, southeast corner of Changhongqiao (团结湖北口3号楼，东三环长虹桥西南角), ☎ 6582 2892. 11am-10pm. Considered by some to be the best Beijing duck in the city, this upscale restaurant also delivers on a nice atmosphere. Reservations suggested. Also at Dongsi Shitiao 22A, Bldg. 1-2 of the Nanxin Cang International Tower (东四十条甲22号南新仓国际大厦1-2楼).
* Bianyifang (便宜坊), 36 Xingfu Dajie, Chongwen District (崇文区幸福大街36号), ☎ 6711 6545, [4]. Other locations at 73 Tiantan Dong Lu (天坛东路) and 2A Chongwenmen Wai Dajie (崇文门外大街甲2号).
[edit] Hot Pot
The other culinary specialty of Beijing is hotpot. Unlike the Southern Chinese and Thai variants of this dish, you cook the meat yourself in a spicy boiling broth. Raw meat is purchased by the plate, as with any vegetables or noodles you would like to add. A thick sesame dipping sauce is usually also served. While "raw" sounds dangerous, boiling the meat yourself is the best way to ensure that more risky meats like pork are fully cooked and free of germs. In the city center, hotpot can run as much as ¥40-¥50 per person, but on the outskirts it can be found for as little as ¥10-¥25.
[edit] Other Chinese cuisines
Indeed, Beijing provides an ideal opportunity to sample food from all over the Country. Sichuan, Hunan, Cantonese, Tibetan, Yunnanese minority cuisine, and many other region-specific cuisines are found in Beijing. Many, such as Makye Ame (11A Xiushui Nanjie Jianguomenwai Beijing Tel: +86 (10) 6506 9616) and Dai Nationality Restaurant feature live dancing and performance, and are not to be missed.
For vegetarians, Beijing's first pure vegetarian buffet restaurant is located on the Confucius Temple on Guo zi jian street, west of the famous Lama Temple. No English menu so far, but one can just ask for the buffet, which contains a large variety of delicious vegetarian dishes, as well as a vegetarian hotpot, and a large selection of dessert.
Sleep
Foreign visitors often are "restricted" to staying in high-priced official hotels, that restriction being less and less obvious as a great majority of accommodation now takes place in the form of low-cost hotels and hostels. Zhaodaisuos (招待所) are more difficult, and may be fully inaccessible altogether to the foreign community.
Red Lantern House hostel
* Red Lantern House, No.5 Zhengjue Hutong, Xinjie Kou, Xicheng District. Absolutely adorable hostel with a genuine Chinese feeling. The courtyard in the middle is a great place to hang out, talk to new friends or just sit by yourself and read. Its location in a classical Hutong adds to the feel of experiencing the real China. Dorm beds from 45 Yuan, singles from 130 Yuan, doubles from 140 Yuan. They offer airport pickup for 160 Yuan.
* Qiao Yuan Fandian: Located not far west from Beijing South trainstation. About 20 yuan from Beijing Zhan (Beijing Train station) by taxi, or take buses 744 or 20; best from Qianmin near Tiananmen Square. There's a whopping 200 ya jin (key deposit) but 4 bed dorms with a/c are reasonabley priced at 31 yuan or 260/360 for standard suites, the more expensive option in the building in the back (newer). Level 6 has a laundry, kitchen, and travel agency. Internet access located towards the train station (look for the fish net character on the signs, or ask for 'wung ba') or a few blocks away to the west near KFC, McDonalds and a supermarket. Plenty of eating is nearby, and also don't miss the Art Deco interior of a hotel/restaurant when its lit up at night (head towards KFC).
* International Youth Hostel: Located directly across from Beijing Zhan (Beijing train station). Dorms 60 yuan (4-8 beds).
* Beijing Saga International Youth Hostel, No. 9 Shijia Hutong, Dongcheng District. Tel. 86-10-65272773, 65249098, Sagayangguang. This place is about a 15 minute walk from the Beijing Main Railway Station. From the station, follow the road North past the Beijing International Hotel. After about a ten minute walk look for the hostel sign with an arrow pointing down one of the hutongs on the left side. The hostel is very popular with backpackers. They charge 180 Yuan for a triple room, 160 Yuan for a double room and 40-50 Yuan for a bed in a dormitory (the price depends on how many beds are in the room). There's a restaurant on the top floor. The staff speaks some English.
* Beijing Far East Youth Hostel Far East Youth Hostel, 90 Tie Shu Xie Jie, Xuan Wu District. Tel. 86-10-51958811. It's in a traditional Chinese courtyard, about 10 minutes walking from Tiananmen Square. The Far East Youth Hostel has become very famous after having been added to major travel guides. During summer time you should book one week in advance.
* Leo's HostelLeo's Hostel is a good alternative to the Far East and is just around the corner. Leo's Hostel is in the same road as the Far East, has a free Playstation 2, Internet, Pool, lockers, maps, guides, magazines etc. It is well known for its friendly staff and lively bar atmosphere. It has a beautiful courtyard, with dorm rooms (45-70rmb) as well as private rooms (160-200rmb) Tel: (10) 63031595 or (10) 63033318.
* Changgong Hotel is one of the cheapest places in the Qianmen Hutong. It has an traditional arichitecture and is just next door from Far East and Leo's. Don't try to find any of the narrow roads on the map. Navigation is only possible by asking or in a riksha. Dormbeds are 35, a triple room is 210. Tel: (10) 63015088 or (10) 63032665.
* Eastern Morning Youth Hostel is a great budget option if price is your primary concern. The hostel is located in the basement of the Oriental Plaza shopping/office/residential complex next to Wangfujing. Private rooms cost about 90 RMB per night - book in advance. The staff does not speak much English but are friendly. Internet access is available at 10 RMB per hour. The hostel is located on Dongdan Santiao (which runs behind Oriental Plaza). It is a 5 minute walk to the Dongdan or Wangfujing subway stations and about a 15 minute walk to the International Hotel airport shuttle stop. Tel: (10) 65284347
Beijing is a very safe city. However, tourists are often preyed upon by cheats and touts. Be especially cautious in the inner city, around Tiananmen Square, and on the tourist-crowded routes to the Great Wall.
* For tours to the Great Wall, be wary: the driver might just stop and set you off before your destination. Only pay afterwards if you are absolutely sure you are at the destination. Do not go for organized tours to the Great Wall in the 100-150 Yuan range that are advertised by people handing out flyers around the Forbidden City (or in the latest scam, masquerading as the real bus service to the Great Wall which only costs 20 Yuan, but is guaranteed to waste your entire day). Conveniently you are picked up from your hotel (so they know where to get back at you, in case you will not pay), you end up on a shopping tour through many many Chinese art, China, Chinese medicine, etc. shops and afterwards you have to pay upfront to get back to the city. Of course, there are exceptions, and people showing letters of recommendation from their previous travels and pictures are usually ok, as are people offering trips to the wilder parts of the Great Wall (ie. not Badaling or Juyong).
* Do not follow any "students" wanting to show you something. They are most likely scammers or semi-scammers. Examples include "art students" who bring you to their "school exhibition" and pressure you to buy art at insanely inflated prices. Tea sampling is another scam. It is free to sample tea for locals, but for tourists...you should ask. In one incident, after sampling 5 types of tea with two "students", a group of tourists were confronted with a bill for 1260 Yuan! They even produced an English Menu with the extortionate prices for sampling. Young attractive female "students" also try to lure male tourists to shops, restaurants or night clubs. The prices at such places can be extremely high for basically nothing.
* Take care when offered a ride in a rickshaw. Make sure you know where you are going to be taken in advance, and agree a price in writing. you may well end up dropped off in a deserted alleyway and extorted for a large amount - 600 Yuan or more.
Be wary of fake money. You may observe Chinese people inspecting their money carefully, and with a reason: there are a lot of counterfeit bills in circulation. The most common are 100's and 50's. A few tips for identifying counterfeit bills:
* Be very careful if someone wants to give back the largest currency bill (50 and 100 Yuan) by the excuse of "no change". In an attempt to pass you a counterfeit bill they may tell you that they have lowered the price in your benefit. Or, they may ask you to contribute an additional sum in order to pass you the 100 Yuan. If they give you back all the change money plus the coins on top (though coins are rare in Beijing) take your time to check each bill carefully.
* Another version of the above trick is when a vendor refuses to accept your 100 Yuan bill claiming that it's fake. The truth is most likely that he took your genuine bill and discretely changed it for a fake one which he now is trying to give back to you. Hard to prove unless you see the swap.
* To check any 50 and 100 Yuan bill you get, do this: most importantly, check the paper. If its torn, thin or very slippery, ask for a different bill. Next, check the watermark, it should blur out softly. If there are hard visible corners in the watermark, reject the bill. Last, check the green "100" imprint on the lower left corner. It should be clearly painted on the bill so you can both feel and see a relief. If its missing or not feelable, reject the bill also. Rejecting bills is not considered impolite. If the colouring of a banknote is faded, it does not necessarily mean it is fake.
* Great Wall (长城 Chángchéng) (about a 1.5 hour bus ride from the city, recommended (but be aware of bus scams!) Two or more sections near the city have been restored and are available for tourists to walk upon. One section even has a ski lift up and a toboggan (or ski lift) down. The Wall is on top of mountain chains. You may want to bring a jacket against the wind or cold in the chillier season - in the summer you will need lots of water, there are vendors on the wall. The Badaling section is the most famous, but also the most over-restored and crowded. Jin Shan Ling, Huang Shan and Si Ma Tai are more distant (several hours drive) but offer a better view of the wall in a less restored state with fewer crowds. Mutianyu is well restored, but far less crowded than Badaling. Crowds are a definite issue with the great wall. At popular sections at popular times, it is not the Great Wall of China, but rather the Great Wall of Tourists. It is possible to rent a taxi for a day to take you to these sites. Renting a taxi should cost 400~450 yuan. For this price the driver takes you whereever you want, and will wait for your return.
written by  garisti on May 1, 2008 from Beijing, China

Datong, China
Datong is a city in Shanxi Province in China.
The Hanging Monastery outside of Datong
[edit] Train
Trains from Beijing - an eight-hour journey.
Daily overnight trains run from Beijing to Datong and from Datong to Beijing. A hardsleeper ticket costs around 250,- Yuan. Booking tickets at the Datong train station can be difficult as for popular directions a large part of the tickets are hatched by black market sellers when they become available four days before the train runs. So book your tickets from Datong as early as possible. The night trains arrive and start from Beijing West Station (Beijing Xi Zhan).
The quickest way southwards (Shanghai, Hongkong, etc.) is over Beijing, and beside the night train there is is daily morning train, starting at 8:50, costing 45,- Yuan for a hardseater.
Huayan Monastery
* Like many cities in China, Datong has it's own Drum Tower.
* The Hanging Monastery
* A 600-year-old screen made of glazed tiles and depicting nine dragons.
* The Huayan Monastery, which has the largest wooden shrine hall in China
* By far the greatest attraction of the area are the 1,500-year-old Yungang Grottoes. These mountain-side caves and recesses number more than 50 in all and are filled with 51,000 Buddhist statues - the largest being a 56-foot Seated Buddha while the smallest is only a few centimeters tall. In addition to the carvings of the Buddha, there are also scenes depicting Buddhist teachings and famous monks. The Yungang Grottoes are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Buses and taxis ply the ten mile route from Datong City to the Yungang.
[edit] budget
* Feitian Binguan, 1 Chezhan Qian Jie, ☎ (0352)2815117.
[edit] midrange
[edit] splurge
Evenings around the Red Flag Square are quite entertaining and full of locals.
written by  garisti on May 1, 2008 from Datong, China

Pingyao, China
Pingyao (平遥; Píngyáo)is a small city whose old town is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Pingyao has no airport. The closest major city is Taiyuan, two hours by train to the northwest. You can catch a train to here from Wuhan, Chengdu, Zhengzhou, and Beijing. All of these trains are overnight trains.
The Old City is small enough that you can do most locations by foot. But if you need to cross town between attractions, or are simply lazy, you can hire golf carts that wander the streets. Pay around Y5 for a ride if a single person, around Y15 for four people.
The main attraction in Pingyao is the Old City. This area is surrounded by a large wall. Admission to any of the 30 attactions inside the city, and the city wall, is a flat fee of Y120. This ticket is good for three days, but only if it is validated in the afternoon the previous day between 4:30-6:30. This can be done at the booth near Yamen Gate.
* Town Building/Bell Tower
* City Walls
* Rishengchang Financial House Museum
* Former Residence of Lei Lutai
* Shuanglin Temple
* Visit during the Lantern Festival to see the town decked out in red lanterns.
Most of the Ancient City, at least the areas near the major attractions and the West Gate, are lined with shops that cater toward tourists. Standard Chinese bric-a-brac is for sale, at relatively high prices. Bargain hard and keep an eye out for stalls that sell handmade crafts right in the places where they make them. The city makes excellent cloth shoes, which you will see the locals wear as they march up and down the dusty streets.
[edit] Money
There's an ATM of the Agricultural Bank of China a few meters out of the south-western gate of the Ancient City. Foreign Maestro cards accepted (checked on August 2006).
Pingyao's speciality is Pingyao Beef. It has an acquired, strong taste. Be careful in some of the more touristy restaurants: outrageous bills of Y100 or more are not uncommon for a meal that appeared to be quite cheap. Be sure to ask about the price of any chef's specialities, and take a look at the bill as you are ordering your food.
Chinese beer, what else? There aren't too many clubs or bars, but you can sip a brew until midnight at many guesthouse restaurants.
The Ancient City is full of guesthouses with Ming/Qing style beds. These are flat beds with ornate headrests that sit close to the ground. On the main street these beds can go for as much as Y400. Poke around backstreets and this price can easily quarter.
Fancy, Western-style accodmation tends to be located outside the Ancient City Wall.
* Harmony Guesthouse, 165 Nan Dajie (harmonyguesthouse@asia.com). Expect to pay about Y40 for a dorm bed, and between Y80-120 for a private double.
* Yamen Hostel, affilated with Hostelling International, [1]. Expect to pay about Y35 for a dorm bed, and maybe Y80 for a double. Discounts for HI members.
Mostly by train, although bus links are available with Taiyuan and other Shanxi locations.
written by  garisti on May 1, 2008 from Pingyao, China

Zhengzhou, China
Zhengzhou (郑州) is a city on the south bank of Yellow River (Huang He) in China. It is the capital of Henan Province.
The name Zhengzhou comes from a city in the Sui Dyansty, but its actual location was in modern day Chenggao. During the Tang Dyansty, the name switched here. The area remained an unimportant backwater until it was selected for development by the Chinese Government after 1949. Strategically located in the center of the country, Zhengzhou is now a major transportation hub and rapidly growing city.
Zhengzhou is a transport hub; you can get here from nearly every major metropolitian area in China on many forms on transport. There are several arrivals each day from Beijing (about 11 hours), Guangzhou (about 18 hours), Xi'an (about 10 hours) and Shanghai (about 14 hours). Trains arrive from other places less often.
The airport is about 30 km outside of town. A public bus runs from the airport to a centrally located hotel. It costs Y25.
The city's focal point is February 7 Square (二七区). This large public square comes alive at night, when an entire market fills the space with vendors and locals hanging out. From the square, several main streets man fan out to different areas of the city.
Since Zhengzhou was handpicked to serve as a transportation hub -- and does not have a very history as a large city -- the urban planning is more noticeable here than in other places of China. This means there is plenty of green space, tree-lined streets and logical arrangment to the city.
Zhengzhou is relatively spread out, but most sites are accessible by public bus, which costs Y1 per ride. Taxi flag fall is Y7, with each kilometer after the second Y1. As of June 2006, the cabs were also adding a fuel surcharge of Y1 to all trips.
* The February 7 Memorial Tower is a museum inside a rather garish double pagoda that looms over February 7 Square. Inside there are exhibits explaining the city's development.
* Worth a visit is the Henan Provincial Museum in the northwest part of the city. Learn about ancient civilizations in the area (most of which were not based in Zhengzhou, but nearby cities such as Kaifeng and Luoyang), and even see a dinosaur bone or two in the area. While you're out there, pop into the Henan Museum of Science & Technology that's a fascinating insight into Chinese children's education. Play on crumbling science exhibits, gawk at the garish space tributes and meet local families, all for Y5.
* You can see remants of a Shang Dyansty Wall in the east side of town. Be warned: these mounds aren't terribly impressive.
* Zhengzhou Zoo
* City parks
Large department stores and international brands tend to be concentrated around February 7 Square. There's a Friendship Store on Wenhua Lu specializing in trendy foreign imports at rip-off prices (best to wait for Beijing or Shanghai). As for local goods, head toward the north of the city. Save kung-fu souvenir buying until Shaolin.
If Zhengzhou doesn't have the best food in China, it doesn't have the worst, either. The night market in Feburary 7 Square is a good place for a snack and scenery. There's the usual assortment of dumpling shops and noodle joints on every street and back alley. The city's big enough to have a scattering of cosmopolitian restaurants, so look for Korean and Japanese options about. There's a good number of Sichuan restaurants, which make sense considering the proximity to the Province of Spice. Noodles, especially the Mutton noodle(Simplified Chinese:羊肉烩面 Pinyin:yangrouhuimian) and Beef noodle(Simplified Chinese:牛肉拉面 Pinyin:Niuroulamian) are must-eat in Zhengzhou.
There are bars around the city, but there isn't an obvious focal zone to point tourists in. It's best to wander around some of the main streets such as Wenhua Lu or Erqi Lu looking for places. Another area to try is near Zhengzhou University, where there's a good student crowd. The University is about 1.5 kilometers from February 7 Square.
Laowai, find "Target Pub". Southernmost block of Jing Liu Lu, north and east of the train station.
Zhengzhou isn't a major backpacker stop, so there are few cheap lodgings in the city. That said, there are some hotels that offer real value for money if you are more than two people.
* Your best bet is the relatively new Hotel Home chain. There are over half a dozen locations around town. The most centrally located one is right off of Wenhua Street (文化路) about a kilometer from Erqi Square. The rooms here are super-clean with hardwood floors and a fresh coat of paint that invoke a SoHo loft more than a Chinese hotel. (Don't worry, you'll still get calls in the middle of the night for "Massage?" just to ensure that you're still in China.) Ask for a discount of about 30% of the rack rate. Doubles go for around Y120 and include breakfast.
* Guangzhou Hotel caters toward business travelers, but still is very reasonable. Doubles start at around Y200 with a discount. Just ask at the front desk.
* Erqi Hotel has a great location, right in the main square. This might be a little loud at night, and you have to pay for the space. Full service rooms are about Y250, but there are budget ones available with shared bathroom for Y150. This can be hard to get, however.
Henan awaits:
* Go to the Shaolin Temple. One of China's most famous attractions, the temple is about two hours from Zhengzhou. It's an easy day trip. Bus leave opposite the train station every 20-30 minutes all morning. Be warned: many of the bus tickets are actually tours, that may spend most of the day at auxilary sites or eating lunch instead of the Shaolin complex. These tours do not include entrance fees. Try to make sure you're going on a direct bus, or hire a van, if you want to see it on your own.
* Kaifeng is a laid-back about 90 minutes to the east of Zhengzhou. Enjoy ancient temples and an escape from Chinese skyscrapers. Kaifeng was the capital of several dyansties before it slid into irrelavence the last 200 years.
* Another great city nearby by is Luoyang, home to the Longmen Grottoes. The city itself is worth a look, with an interesting old section and easy walking downtown. It's about three hours by bus, which leave Zhengzhou every hour or so. An express -- the "elephant bus" or kuai che -- costs Y40.
written by  garisti on May 1, 2008 from Zhengzhou, China

Luoyang, China
Luoyang (洛阳; Luòyáng) is a city in Henan province.
[edit] By Plane
Luoyang Airport (IATA: LYA) is located over 10 km north of the city center. Flights are available to Beijing and Shanghai.
[edit] By Train
Location - at the northern end of Jinguyuan Lu
* Beijing - takes about 11 hours
* Guangzhou - takes about 24 hours
* Shanghai - takes about 17 hours
* Wuhan - takes about 08 hours
* Xian - takes about 5-6 hours
[edit] By Bus
Location - across plaza from train station , corner Jinguyuan Lu and Daonan Lu
* Anyang - takes about 4 hours
* Guangzhou - takes about 27 hours
* Jinan - takes about 9 hours
* Kaifeng - takes about 4 hours
* Taiyuan - takes about 8 hours
* Xian - takes about 4 hours
* Zhengzhou - takes about 2 hours
* Ancient Han Tombs Museum - fascinating museum with reconstructed and unearthed tomns from the Western Han dynasty to the Northern Song dynasty
* Baima Si (White Horse Temple) - first officially sanctioned Buddhist temple
* Guanlin - temple commemorating Guan Yu, great warrior of the Kingdom of Wu time period
* Longmen Shiku (Dragon Gate Grottoes) - on the banks of the river Yi and considered to be one of the the great sculptural treasure sites in China and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
* Luoyang Museum - very well done museum
* Wangcheng Gongyuan - site of the Luoyang Peony Festival in April, something not to be missed
* Luoyang has a long, beautiful ancient store street with fully functioning stores, a lot like Pingyao, another incredible visit
written by  garisti on May 1, 2008 from Luoyang, China

Xi'an, China
Xian (西安 Xī'ān), or officially, Xi'an, pronounced roughly she-ahn, is an historic city in Shaanxi Province, China.
Xi'an, capital of Shaanxi Province, with a 3,000-year history, was known as Chang'an in ancient times. For over 1,000 years the city has been capital for 13 dynasties, and a total of 73 emperors ruled here. With so much history within the ground the city lies upon, it's no wonder that there are so many historical ruins and, in the museums, cultural relics. It's hard to believe that before the lifes of Christ, Mohammad, and Siddhartha, Xi'an was a world class city and already influencing the world outside of The Great Wall of China. As the eastern terminus of the Silk Road, traders from far and wide brought goods and ideas for sale and took goods and ideas back with them to their communities. In the present times, not much of its former glory remains within the city due to warfare and constant political changes throughout the ages.
[edit] By Plane
Xi'an Xianyang International Airport (IATA: XIY) is located 40 km northwest of the city centre. Flights are available to Beijing, Chengdu, Chongqing, Dunhuang, Fuzhou, Guangzhou, Harbin, Hohhot, Kunming, Lhasa, Lanzhou, Nanjing, Shanghai, Urumqi, Wuhan, and Xining within China, International flights are available to Bangkok, Hong Kong, Macau, Seoul as well as Nagoya, Fukuoka, Niigata, and Hiroshima in Japan.
Most people use taxicabs or the airport bus to reach town from the airport. Be careful though, one of the airport buses (from the airport to the Drum Tower) will try their absolute best to sell you expensive plane tickets and then upon getting off the bus you'll be hounded by a few dozen more touts and a large concentration people begging for money that were all seemingly waiting for you to get off that bus. It's probably best to avoid this route and take the bus to the train station instead.
[edit] By Train
There are plenty of trains transporting passengers to and from most of the major cities inside China. Located at the center of China, it often takes one day to travel from Xian to other cities by train.
Xian Station - located at the north end of Jiefang Jie
Approximate journey times to other major cities:
Beijing 14-18 hours, Chengdu 16-27 hours, Chongqing 14 hours, Guangzhou 24 hours, Kunming 36-53 hours, Lanzhou 10-13 hours, Lhasa 36 hours, Shanghai 18-24 hours, Urumqi 31-56 hours, Wuhan 14-18 hours and Zhengzhou 7 hours.
The main long-distance bus station is located across from main railway station
Approximate journey times to major local cities:
Huashan 2-3 hours, Lanzhou 8-10 hours, Luoyang 7-10 hours, Taiyuan 12 hours and Zhengzhou about 9-12 hours.
[edit] By car
Traffic is heavy, right of way is unheard of, the rule of thumb is keep going no matter what (although drivers do note red lights).
[edit] Orientation
Bell Tower （种楼 Zhonglou)
The city is surrounded by a city wall, in its middle the Bell Tower (钟楼 Zhōnglóu). From this one, the four main streets descend into the four points of the compass.
* North-Street (北大街 Běidàjiē)
* East-Street (东大街 Dōngdàjiē)
* South-Street (南大街 Nándàjiē)
* West-Street (西大街 Xīdàjiē)
Don't get confused by different names in tourist guides, addresses and bus stops: Nandajie; Nanda-Street, South-Street; South-Avenue... are all the same.
Locals often speak about Within city walls and Outside city walls when talking about locations. Outside the walls, the southern part is the most interesting: it offers shopping streets, bars and some nightlife.
There are plenty of Buses departing everywhere in short-intervals (main lines every 5-10 minutes). If you are not confident enough with orientation, or if you don't liked packed busses, the cheap taxis are the best alternative, broadly available, except for rush hours.
A subway system is planned for Xian running east to west. It will have a total length of 26.22 km, including 15 stations. As of 2004, Line 1 will be not be completed till 2009.
There are busses leaving regularly for the Terracotta Warrior museum in front of the Xi'an bus station (opposite the train station, within the city walls). Take bus 306 from the central bus station. It will take you to a parking lot right in front of the museum site within 40 minutes. A one way ticket costs 7RMB. Alternatively, most hostels run tours to the warriors with an English speaking guide. These aren't necessarily better, be prepared to spend a good portion of the day (as with any Chinese tour) visiting "terra cotta factories," "museums" and other tourist traps. But, you will get to your destination without dealing with the bus (the warriors are quite far outside of town) and not all of the public buses that go there are legitimate.
Regular busses within the city cost 1RMB (2RMB for air-conditioned, marked with a snow-flake) no matter how far you go.
[edit] By taxi
Watch the taxi drivers in Xian as the industry is not regulated as it is in other larger cities like Beijing. You may find yourself being taken on a long ride around town to get where you are going. It can also be difficult to convince them to take you anywhere - even to the railway station, if in doubt get your hotel or hostel to write down the place you want to go in Chinese. Trips within the city walls are generally in the 6RMB range; longer trips to the attractions south of the city are in the 12-20RMB range.
Some taxi drivers in Xian won't take you seriously when you tell them that you want to go somewhere and will drive off without you getting in.
[edit] By bike
Fortunately Xian's main sites (with the notable exception of the Terracotta Warriors) are bunched fairly close together, so renting a bike is a good option. Be wary of the narrow streets and cars that squeeze you out of the way.
[edit] inside the city
Drum Tower （鼓楼 Gǔlóu
Shop in the Muslim Street
* City Wall of Xi'an - the only city wall to remain intact in China. In such great shape and wide enough to walk as on a promenade
* Shaanxi Provincial Museum, many artifacts dating back to the Bronze Age are on display
* Forest of Steles (西安碑林 Xīān Bēilín) situated in the Shaanxi Provincial Museum, this collection of 2,3000 stone tablets and epitaphs is the largest and oldest of its kind in China
* Big (Wild) Goose Pagoda (大雁塔 Dà Yàntǎ) Located at Ci'en Temple and built by Emperor Gaozong（Li Zhi) in 652 AD. Emblem of the city of Xi'an. Take bus No 41 or No 610 from the main train station.
* Little (Wild) Goose Pagoda (小雁塔 Xiǎo Yàntǎ). Located at Jianfu Temple and completed in 709 AD.
* Drum Tower （鼓楼 Gǔlóu） located in the exact center of the city and Bell Tower （钟楼 Zhōnglóu） located northwest within the Muslim Quarter
* The Grand Mosque (清真寺 Qīngzhēnsì), behind Drum Tower, built in a perfect mixture of Islamic and Chinese architecture styles with seating for 1,000 worshippers and the Muslim Street (回民街 Huímín Jiē) around it.
[edit] outside the city
* Army of Terracotta Warriors and Horses (兵马俑 Bīng mă yŏng). This mighty army of terracotta warriors and horses, found in three vaults a short distance away from the Qinshihuang Mausoleum, is perhaps the most popular tourist attraction of Shaanxi. An in-site museum has been built over these pits, covering a floorspace of 20,000 square meters and displaying 8,000 life-like terracotta warriors, 100 or so chariots, and 30,000 weapons - an assemblage billed as the Eighth World Wonder and a world cultural heritage site by UNESCO in 1987.UNESCO World Heritage List
* Banpo Village Ruins 6,000 year old ruins of a village site (residential and pottery-making areas) outside Xian as well as a burial ground and tools
* Famen Temple The 13-storied brick pagoda of the monastery, first built in 1609, fell down in the rain in August, 1981 and revealed a 1000 year old underground palace with 2,400 treasures belonging to the Tang and previous dynasties. These included gold and silver utensils, glazed wares, porcelains, pearls, precious stones and textiles, as well as religious items such as a finger bone of Buddha offered to the Emperor of China during the Tang dynasty.
* Huaqing Palace (华清池 Huáqīngchí), built by the Tang emperor Xuanzong near hot springs at the foot of Li Shan in Lintong County so he could frolic with his favoured Imperial Lady Yang to his heart's content
* Mao Ling Mausoleum - the tomb of the fifth emperor of the Han Dynasty has many stone carvings
* Qinshihuang's Mausoleum - Mausoleum of the First Emperor of China
* Walk along the City walls and see the South Gate (南门 Nánmén) (illuminated at night)
* Bicycling around the city walls will take about 2 hours
* Walk through the Hui Muslim Quarter (回民街 Huímín Jiē) sampling food
Native speaking foreigners, no matter what age, can easily find jobs as English teachers, for example at Kid Castle or Aston English.
Souvenirs
* If you are visiting the terracotta warriors, be prepared to meet some of the most hardcore hawkers you are likely to meet anywhere. If you keep quiet, they will usually bargain themselves down in front of you in desperate pleas for your money. Buy a 15cm Terracotta warrior for 5-10RMB even if they offer it to you for 45RMB. Wood-carved Buddhas and Dragons for about the same. They are fortunately kept at a distance from the actual site. Many travelers report enjoying this experience. It's definitely not a reason not go see the Terracotta Warriors.
* The best place to buy souvenirs in the city centre is behind the Drum Tower in the Muslim Quarter (around the Mosque). The seller usually offers you a very high price, and even if you bring them down by 50%, they will still make a big profit. This is also a good place to buy folk art, specifically folk style block prints in a single shop which go for about 50RMB if you can stand bargaining when the older gentleman artist himself is standing right there.
* Tang Tricolored Pottery is a style that was lost and has now been recreated from pieces of pottery found in tombs. It is graphic in image and eye-pleasing in color. The factory recreating the style offers over 100 varieties of items, like statues, animals, and utensils.
Clothes
Xi'an is amazingly cheap for clothes
* The East-Street (Dongdajie, the eastern of those 4 big ones descending from the central Bell Tower) has regular fashion shops
* The fancier one is the South-Street (Nandajie) with fine shops for clothes & shoes (f.ex. Louis Vuitton).
* Local youngsters buy in Baihuo-Market（百货市场）in Xiaozhai (小寨)，10RMB by Taxi from the centre. It's one of those fake-brand-markets. Sport shoes should be less than 150, pullovers and nice jeans sometimes less than 100, a lot of cheap fashion accessories. This is also a great place for DVDs and CDs, but be careful, most of them are pirate ones.
Yang Rou Pao Muo is one of the signature dishes of the area, it consists of a piece of bread and a kettle of lamb soup. The diner shreds the bread with his hands and places the shreds in a bowl, the soup is then poured over the shreds. Tong Sheng Xiang Restaurant is recommended.
The Muslim Quarter is located close to the Drum tower and is a vibrant area with many restaurants spilling out onto the street and mixing with the street sellers
Street food (mostly sold after sunset, or some near night clubs/bars after 11PM) presents a variety of local/regional dishes, ranging from noodle soups, dumplings, hot pot, and so on by tens of little food vendors on street side, each with a red lamp.
* Rou Jia Mo (sandwich like, with pork, beef or lamb, must try)
* Yi long bao-zi, basket-steamed dumplings (one basket 3RMB), common as a midnight snack.
* Guan Tang Baozi, steamed buns served with sauces inside)
* Rou Jia Mo, finely chopped pork stuffed in toasted wheat flour flat bread).
[edit] Vegetarian
* To the west of Da Yan Ta square is Tian Long Boa Vegetarian Restaurant. They do amazing fake meat dishes such as kao rou and chicken feet!! They have an easy to order from picture menu.
* Xiao Zhai Da Xing Shan Temple also has a vegetarian restaurant with dishes similar to to thos on offer at Tien Long Boa. There is no English on the menu, but choose and point works well.
A good way if you don't want the expensive hotel food or just want to try real Chinese cuisine, is to simply go into a small restaurant and point on your the dish somebody else is having and you will get a Meal for less than 10RMB (seldom 20RMB) per person.
* Wen Xin Jiaozi Guan (温馨饺子馆) is a good cheap place for Jiaozi（dumplings,if you speak Chinese. There is no menu, but endless suplies of fresh jiaozi of many flavors, from 4 or 5 RMB a bowl. It is at 123 Xushimiao jie, next to the Good World Hotel, off of Lian Hu Lu.
McDonalds, Pizza Hut, KFC or its Chinese brother Dicos are widely available within city walls for a change of the daily Chinese cuisine.
* Highfly Pizza (高飞), located a bit down the right street after coming out of South Gate (南门), offers best Pizza and other western food in town.
* La Seine, french style restaurant recently opened at NanDaJie (南大街) near Bell Tower
* 'Tang Paradise Hotel', (Dinner Show) is located near the Wild Goose Pagoda in the Qujiang Resort of Xian. It is described as the largest theme park in Northwestern China with an area of 165 acres. The charm lies in that all the buildings in the park are built in the luxurious style of the Tang Dynasty. The best time to visit is at night when most of the shows, including fireworks and dances, are performed.
* The 'Real Love' [N34.23887 E108.93407] is located on ZhuQue DaJie (朱雀大街), opposite of the Small Wildgoose Pagoda (小雁塔). Located on the 7th floor it also has a roof terrace with a view to the Small Wildgoose Pagoda. The place offers excellent Chinese food of different styles. An English menu is available. Try the Baby Lamb Leg or the Fried Dumplings With Diced Beef.
Night clubs in Xian are not abundant since the hip-hop culture is not popular in the city. All clubs play the same music, a mix of Chinese disco and some pop music, but it might change slowly in future. But for now, don't expect latest charts or hiphop music. Most people go out between 10 p.m. and 1 a.m., but clubs are generally open until 4 a.m.
* Along the short Nandajie (南大街) are the most clubs (you can also eat on the street after late midnight). You will easily find the MIX (big light ad) and its neighbour Palando. Both are rather places to sit and drink. If you want a dance floor, go along towards South Gate, on the same side there are first Night Cat with some foreigners and OK-DJs and Kulala.
* The most popular club remains 1+1 (pronounced "yi-jia-yi" for the taxi driver）in the middle of Dongdajie (东大街) The club has 3 dance floors: first floor is mostly hiphop music, second floor is mostly techno and third floor is for slow jam music.
* In summer time, the area around South Gate (南门) is beautiful. East of it are three nice bars with terrace and garden.
Xian is by no means cheap. A regular single room at a hotel will gouge you from 250 yuan and up. However, there are many low priced budget hostels starting as low as Y30 for a dorm bed, so if you're on a budget be sure to check around.
There are also 4 international youth hostels right in the center of the city, easy to find.
* 3e Hotels International, 54 Nandajie, Xian (located between the South Gate and the Bell Tower, right next door to a KFC on the West side of the street).
An absolutely beautiful single room with all the fixings and free broadband internet is 154 yuan. A plus is that right outside the door is a REAL COFFEE shop!
A nicer-than-average hotel and hostel. Dorm rooms are between 25-50 RMB, depending on the season and your bargaining skill. You can also get a reasonably nice hotel room for around 75 RMB, again depending on your bargaining skills. The manger Jim Beam is friendly.
* Xi'an Shuyuan International Youth Hostel, Xi Nanmen, Xian, ☎ (029)87287720 (fax: (029)87287721).
* Lijing Jiudian, 20 Xi Dajie, Xian, ☎ (029)87288731.
* Qingnianhui Binguan, 339 Dong Dajie, Xian, ☎ (029)87673002.
* Grand Mecure at Renmin Square, A few blocks north of the Bell and Drum Towers.
* The Hyatt, At the corner of Dondajie and Heping Lu (和平路), 10 minutes walk from the Bell Tower.
* Howard Johnson Plaza, Outside the South gate, a few meters to the west.
Xian is, like other Chinese cities, generally quite safe. Just watch out for pickpockets (usually children) in crowds.
pickpockets are more to be found during holidays. and pickpocketing is more likely to happen on the bus, in the East Street---the most properous commercial street in Xiann, and some of the most crowed resorts like the North Square of the wild goose pagoda where there is a fountin show every night.
Look at the Beijing site advisories, they apply to Xi'an, too. Most importantly, take paper tissue with you to toilets.
Generally, Western style accomodation will have toilets, whereas the very inexpensive "Zhao Dai Suo" will usually have communal facilities that do not include toilets. If you need to use toilets, learn to plan your day accordingly. Major tourist attractions will have toilets.
If you arrive in Xi'an by train, try not to be overwhelmed when you exit Xi'an's train station. There are usually aggresive hotel tout's looking for customers. Just insist that you already have a place to stay and tell them no, with a serious face ("Bu Yao"), but don't get appear too angry.
It is a good idea to check your bags at the left luggage office and then go into town to look for accomodation. This way you will not be overwhelmed by the burden of carrying your heavy bags or luggage around.
* Chen Lu Pottery, a 1 1/2 hour drive north of Xian, this community of potters has been producing pottery since the Tang dynasty and is well worth the look if pottery is your thing, private transportation recommended.
* Hu Kou Waterfall (壶口瀑布 Húkǒu Pùbù) located 150km north of Xian, private transportation recommended; can be combined with a day trip to Huang Di Mausoleum
* Huashan National Park approximately 2 hours by train or bus east of Xian. A 2000 metre mountain with spectacular views. It is possible to take the 2-3 hour (6km) walk up or take the 10 minute European built cable car for 元70. It is best to go for sun rise on the East peak. Take plenty of warm clothing for when the sun goes down. Basic accomodation is available, but can be quite pricey.
written by  garisti on May 1, 2008 from Xi'an, China

Chengdu, China
Chengdu (成都 Chéngdū; [1]) is the capital of Sichuan Province in south-west China.
Chengdu is located in the fertile plains of western Sichuan province. Due to its agricultural wealth Chengdu is sometimes called "Land of Milk and Honey". The Fulan river bisects the city although boat traffic, common until the 1960's, has all but disappeared. The greater city area is divided into five districts and 12 counties, altogether home to 9.2 million people.
The airport is located 20km outside of Chengdu. Chengdu airport is one of the main air hubs in China, ranked 5th in passenger volume. It has flights to most major cities in China and some international destinations including Amsterdam, Hong Kong, Bangkok, Phnom Penh, Singapore and Osaka. It serves flights to smaller cities within Sichuan Province, including the popular tourist destination Jiuzhaigou.
Taxi fare from the airport to the city center averages ¥45. There is no extra charge for luggage or additional passengers. Going from the city to the airport, add an additional ¥10 to cover the toll on the Airport Expressway. There is also bus no. 303, which will take you to the China Airlines office on Renmin Nanlu, right in the center of the city. It costs ¥10.
If you intend to take a taxi, be sure to turn LEFT when you exit the domestic arrival area toward the taxi stand and get in a marked, green-and-yellow or blue-and-yellow taxi. Turning right may lead you towards no-goods who are waiting to prey on foreign tourists with unmarked vehicles. Beware as these people sometimes sport official-looking ID, but is in reality fake. The fare offered will often exceed ¥100, and if you bargain with them, you may find yourself sitting in the cab for a while until agreeing to raise the price back up.
The Chengdu railway station (成都火车北站) is located in the north of the city, a ¥15 taxi ride from the city center. Caution is advised in the neighborhood around the train station after dark.
For bus stations, there are three bus stations in Chengdu, and they serve different destinations:
* Chadianzi bus station (西门 Ximen), for Songpan and Jiuzhaigou Nature Reserve.
* Xinnanmen bus station (新南门汽车站), near the Traffic hotel, has daily buses heading to Leshan, Jiuzhaigou Nature Reserve, and Mount Emei and to Kangding in Kham.
* Wuguiqiao bus station, for Chongqing
From Chadianzi Bus Station
To Departure Price (Yuan) Duration (h) Last update
From Xinnanmen Bus Station
* Chengdu has an extensive system of city buses plying the streets. At each bus stop, there is a list of the bus lines coming through on this road, and on some city maps the whole network is displayed. Tickets are ¥1 for common and ¥2 for air-conditioned buses respectively.
* Taxis are equipped with meters, which should be used. A free taxi will display an illuminated sign with Chinese characters in its dashboard. Taxi fares at ¥5 on flagfall and increase at ¥1.4 per km. The meter records fares in increments of ¥1. Try to have small change on hand for taxi rides.
* There are bicycle-propelled pedicabs called san lun che (三轮车) who will take you short distances. Fix a price (¥4-10) in advance.
* Most guesthouses have bicycles for hire. Check for technical problems before starting out unless you want to be held responsible for it later. If you leave your bicycle, do so in one of the designated "parking lots", where it will be guarded over for a small fee. If you can't find such a place, be sure to lock it securely against some structure.
* A subway system[2] is under contstruction. The first line is slated to open in June of 2008. It will start at Tian Fu Square and extend southward down Ren Min Nan road.
* Panda Research Base is the biggest facility of this kind in the world. Due to habitat destruction and other reasons, the Panda Bear is maybe the most famous endangered animal. The Research Base is home to some 60 giant Pandas, but also has some Red Pandas and a colony of black-necked cranes. The Research Center affords views of the pandas from much closer than is possible at many Western zoos. Be sure to bring your camera. The Research Base also has a small museum and a cinema screening related documentaries. A restaurant and souvenir-stalls top off the tourist installations. To get there on your own, you can take a taxi for about ¥35 from downtown Chengdu. Or, catch a northbound bus Nr.1 (¥1) and stay with it until the local bus-terminal. Leave the local bus-terminal through the exit leading to the long distance-terminal (LDT), but do not enter the latter. Instead, wait for the suburbian public bus Nr.1 to come by and stop at the left corner of the LDT. For another ¥1 it will take you to the Panda research center within 20 min. Get off when you see a big white Panda-Statue in the middle of the street. Admission fee is ¥30. The best time to visit is in the morning, when pandas are most active. It is possible to take your picture while holding a Red Panda for a fee of ¥50; occasionally during the morning you can take a pictures alongside a giant panda for a fee of ¥400 per person. Knowledgable English-speaking tour guides can be hired at the office by the Base entrance. The cost for a guide for a small group is ¥100.
* Chengdu Zoo The Zoo, located in the north of the city near the Panda Research Base, offers all the typical animals that one might expect in a zoo (elephant, tigers, giraffes, monkeys, as well as panda bears). While the zoo itself is large and spread out, some of the cages are woefully small and the facility seems understaffed. Might be good for a family to visit. Admission is ¥12 per adult. The zoo has vendors selling Chinese snacks as well as some carnival type rides.
* Sichuan Science and Technology Museum[3] (四川科技馆 ) Located directly behind the Chiarman Mao statue in the city center's Tian Fu Square, this huge 4 storey museum is filled with interactive exhibits about science, aerodynamics, space, mathematics, robotics and physics. Children will love the interactive displays and indoor playground on the 4th floor. Adults will appreciate the descriptions in both English and Chinese. Everyone will love the crowd-pleasers like the robotic orchestra and walk-through maps of Sichuan's waterways. Admission is ¥35 per adult, free for children. To get there, take a taxi or bus to Tian Fu Square and walk to the large building directly behind the Chairman Mao statue. Note: During weekdays this museum can be overrun by local school groups.
* Sichuan University Museum (四川大学博物馆 sichuan daxue bowuguan）[4] has an excellent display of local artifacts and is worth while way of spending an hour or two. The museum is one of the better in China and there are four floors of well lite, air conditioned displays with decent English translations. Starting in the basement, enter the first room where dozens of stone carvings dating from the Han dynasty to the Tang are on display. The room next door has a moderately interesting display on the museum's history and numerous examples of ancient bronzes and stone age artifacts. The first floor is mostly artifacts from the Ming and Qing dynasty, including furniture, silk clothing, and an interesting display of leather puppets. The second floor has the perhaps the most engaging display: artifacts and daily use items from ethnic minority groups in China's southwest, including Tibetans, Miao, Yi, Qiang, Jianpo and Naxi. The third floor has a decent display of calligraphy scrolls, paintings, and ceramics. The museum is located on Wangjiang Road (望江路), about a 15 minute ride from Xinnanmen bus station or a 40 minute walk. Admission is ¥10 and the museum is open from 9:00-5:00 seven days a week. It's telephone number is (028）5412313.
(Information as of 26 July 2006)
* Sichuan Opera Most guesthouses and travel agencies offer to arrange visits to these traditional shows. It's more like a burlesque cabaret than an actual opera, sometimes including magicians, musicians and dancers besides the traditional pieces. Of course the most famous is never omitted: face-changing and firespitting performed by dancers clad in colourful traditional costumes. You will follow the story sitting at your table, sipping on your constantly refilled tea cup and nibbling some salted snacks.
(Information as of 28 June 2005)
* Jin Li This neighborhood is part of the old city of Chengdu, it features hotels and small stores in and old-fashioned style. Antiques are sold in a variety of different stores. It is very popular among both tourists and locals, especially at night, with many bars and nightclubs.
* Massage / Foot Washing Chengdu has establishments that offer massage or foot washing. Generally, these places cater to groups of people who come in together, relax in a private room, perhaps eating fruit or sipping tea, while receiving a fully-clothed massage or foot washing. Prices are very reasonable, often well under Y100 per person. A great way to relax with friends.
For up-to-date information on activities, places and attractions you should check out the "GoWest"-magazine's listings. You'll find copies in most bars or guesthouses.
The following universities accept foreign students (with the proper visa):
* Sichuan University
* Sichuan Normal University
* Those interested in ongoing, private classes in the Chinese language can hire a experienced teacher for ¥40-¥85 per hour. Ask for a referral at one of the universities, or from another student. Textbooks for learning Chinese are available at many local bookshops.
* Job postings for English teachers are located in many guest houses, at Western bars and restaurants, anywhere foreigners congregate.
* The Peace Corps [5] has its China headquarters in Chengdu and places highly selected and qualified US Citizen volunteers in 2 year assignments throughout the region.
* There is a big antiquities-market close to the Green Ram Taoist-temple in the western city. From the temple, walk straight west. It's on your right hand side after you crossed the bridge over the channel. You'll find communist relics, old porcelain dishes, jewellery, calligraphy equipment and also some Tibetan stuff. Be warned that overpricing is excessive (10-20x the real price), so bargain hard.
* All sorts of plush pandas, and other panda trinkets, are sold at the gate of the panda base, as well as ones of a slightly higher quality at the shop inside the panda base itself.
* Supermarkets are located throughout the city, although the selection of imported foods is limited. If you must buy American food, and don't mind a 50% premium over US prices, Sabrina's Country Store at #54 Ke Hua Bei Lu, across from the western gate of Sichuan University and near Linshiguan Lu has friendly service and all imported products. Phone 8524-2987.
* Major retailers Cerrefour, Metro and Wal Mart have locations in Chengdu.
Sichuan being the most known Chinese food style within China, you will find no shortage of delicious Sichuan food in Chengdu. Most of the food is quite spicy, be sure to order non spicy (不要辣 bú yào là) or little spicy (微辣 wēi là) food, at least if you are not accustomed to it yet, or have a bottle of peanut milk ready to quell the fire. The local king of kings is the Hotpot, basically a big pot of oil, water and spices simmering in a hole in the middle of your table. Patrons choose from a big variety of skewered food including veggies, sea-weed, fish, beef, chicken, and dog's meat and proceed to boil them in the oil. After the meal, your bill will be calculated by counting the skewer-sticks.
* There are a number of stalls and hole in the wall type places all over town. Food here is dirt cheap - expect to pay no more than ¥8 for a meal, and the quality is good. Things to be on the lookout for are spicy bowls of breakfast noodles, double cooked pork, and dozens of dishes coated in "ma" the Sichuan chili spice famous the world over.
* There's an excellent place serving Uighur Food across the street from Sam's Guesthouse. Buns, noodles and more.
* Steamed buns (baozi) are sold for breakfast or lunch from street vendors throughout the city. Typical fillings you can request include meat, read bean paste, mushroom, or pork. Cost for 3 buns is ¥1. A container of soy milk (dou jiang) is about the same price.
* WenShu-Temple Vegetarian Restaurant is run by the monks of the monastery and offers a huge selection of vegetarian food, including dishes imitating meat-dishes. You can order special group courses if you can sum up about 10 people and check in advance. (86) 28-6938703
* Bridge Restaurant This restaurnt is actually a historic bridge over the Fulan river. Sichuan food. Very good reputation within Chengdu. Expect to pay at least US$10 per person for food, drinks additional.
[edit] Western Food
Chengdu has a few local Western restaurants. Service is always friendly, although you should expect occasional mistakes, such as appetizers served at the same time as your meal. Chengdu is just starting to get accustomed to Western tastes.
* The Chengdu Bookworm[6] The Bookworm has something for everyone: it is an English language lending library, a Western restaurant, a bar, as well as an occasional venue for local singing and musical talent. Expats might want to join the membership library or take kids to the children's morning storey hours. Evenings, you might find a travel author reading from and signing books, poetry reading, or singing. Great place for to connect with others, catch up on some reading, or just relax.
* Grandma's Kitchen Western restauant with four locations around Chengdu, including one next door to Peter's on Zhong Hua Yuan.
* Peter's Tex-Mex Actually an American restaurant with some Mexican dishes. Peter's has good food. The Zhong Hua Yuan location （028） 85180903 also has homemade ice cream, the best ice cream you will find in Chengdu. If you are coming from out of town, the Zhong Hua Yuan location is right in a major expat area with lots of other restaurants and shopping surrounding it.
* Zoe's Barbeque & Restaurant 30 Renmin Nanlu 4th Section(人民南路四段30号) （028） 85593345 [7] - Southern American BBQ and more. Good food and good service, plus wireless internet.
* Fast food including McDonalds, KFC and Pizza Hut have locations throughout Chengdu. McDonalds and Pizza Hut add some distinctively Chinese offerings to their menus. Unusual cultural tidbit: At Pizza Hut only one trip to the salad bar is allowed per person. Notice how many Chinese turn their salad plates into artistic creations, stacked high with vegetables to share.
* All of the hotels in the "Splurge" category have Western restaurants or buffets. Call ahead for more information.
On the southern bank of the Jin Jiang there is a row of bars between Renmin Nanlu and Xinnan Lu.
* Highfly Cafe, 18 LinJiang Rd, 028-85442820 is a relaxed place with a tiny outside sitting area. They serve beers and western food including pizza and breakfast. There is one computer for free Internet access and a small book exchange (2 for 1).
* Feeling4Seasons Cafe [8], Orient Times Mall 2F, Xia dongda street (near Dongmen bridge), Chengdu. Phone 028-66208848. Good Italian coffee: espresso, cappuccino, especially latte. Also pasta and pizza. They also provide Internet service: wireless access for your laptop, loan of a wireless card if you don't have one, use of a PC if required. You can also burn CDs. It is also one famous China blog freelancer's cafe bar; he published a book named "Ten Years, Flying with one Dream".
* Shamrock Pub [9], #15, 4th Section, Renmin Nan Lu, 028-8523-6158 ( located near Linshiguan Lu and the US Consulate), an Irish pub in Chengdu is currently the hub of Chengdu's small expatriate community (of approximately 3,000). Friendly pub atmosphere and live music some evenings. In addition to drinks the pub serves dishes including pizza and other snacks. The pub has also sponsored several nonprofit organizations, including holding events for moon bear rescue and for the disabled. Copies of the informative Chengdu Sichuan book are available at the Shamrock.
* High Connections Coffee House [10] is located on the west side of Chengdu near Metro and the Southwest Financial University at Qingyang Qu Shuangqing Nanlu 6 Hao Fu A-20, 028-8732-5855. The coffeehouse provides a relaxing, comfortable, environment with soft lighting and easy-listening music. They have non-smoking and smoking sections. Bring your computer and hook up to the wireless Internet. They also have large conference rooms available for meetings.
* Chengdu Jason's Nest Guest House (成都驴行天下青年旅舍), No.26 west way of south railway station, 0086-28-85125498, [11]. Fully-equipped hostel with spacious bright rooms, clean bunks, the Tibetan-style dining room and bar. Located in the leisure, entertainment, dining center of Chengdu, with most attractions within a ¥10 taxi ride. It's a ¥30 taxi ride from the airport or north rail station, a 10-minute walk from the south station, or call for a free pick-up. Helpful, very knowledgeable staff.
* Traffic Hotel (交通饭店; No. 6 Linjian St, 成都市临江路6号; tel. 028-85451017; [12]), conveniently placed just near Renmin Nanlu directly bordering the Xinnanmen bus station. This hotel is one hundred percent geared towards foreign backpackers and is a good place to around a tour or buy tickets. Four-bed dorms rooms are ¥30 per bed and three-bed dorms are ¥40. The rooms and shared bathrooms for ¥40 are very clean and come with a reliable air conditioner. Washing machines are available for ¥10 per load; bring your own detergent. Singles and doubles start at ¥200 and range up to ¥500.
* Chengdu Mix Hostel (Backpackers' Accommodation, Guesthouse & Youth Hostel) 成都驴友记青年旅舍, No.23 Xing Hui Xi Lu, Ren Jia Wan, Wan Fu Bridge, Chengdu, Sichuan, P.R.China. [13] [14], E-mail:mixhostel@hotmail.com. In downtown, with cheap beds, good shower, nice food, lots of people! Wi-fi for laptop, DVDs for you, free Internet, 20GB of Music, very friendly staff.
* Dragon Town Youth Hostel 成都市宽巷子27号, 27 Kuanxiangzi St, tel. 028-86648408, fax 028-86245901, reception@dragontown.com.cn, [15]. A five minute walk north of the Renmin park. Serving younger people and families, catering mostly for young western budget tourists. Many travelling services available from within the hostel, such as tours to nearby attractions, Tibet travel tours. Facilities include Internet access, restaurant and camp grounds. Cheapest accommodation is ¥15/bed with rooms starting from ¥100.
* Sam's Guesthouse 130 Shanxi Jie, samtour@yahoo.com: tel.028-86099022, 10 minutes walk from the Chairman Mao Statue at Renmin Nanlu. Look for Rongcheng Fandian (Rongcheng hotel). Sams Guesthouse office is next to the entrance to the Rongcheng Fandian. Rooms start from ¥80. Doubles are ¥120.
* Sim's Cozy Guesthouse 42 Xizhushi, tel :028-86288691, mobile: 8613980787075, simscozy@hotmail.com, [16] is close to Wenshu temple in the northern part of town. Opened in 2004 by two experienced travellers, it's located in a nice old house and has a fairly big seating area and a small garden. Care has been taken to avoid the typical pains of the traveller's everyday life, so for instance toilets are equipped with paper, there is a lockable security box at your bed, mosquito-coils adorn the rooms and corridors, the bar provides guitars and cold beers and so on. Staff is extremely friendly and helpful. They do arrange tours to several sights. There is Internet access for ¥5 per hour. A dorm bed is ¥15, doubles and triples with/without air-con are from ¥70 to ¥120. If you don't want to stay in the dorm, is advisable to make a reservation some days in advance.
* Xiaoguanyuan Hotel (小观园 xiǎoguānyuán), 成都市宽巷子40号, 40 Kuanxiangzi St, tel. 028-86640663, 028-86639883, 028-86640241. Beautiful garden and classical architectured hotel. Staff is Chinese speaking only though, but with a good location and rooms starting from ¥100, a very good offer. Just 50m from the Dragon Town Youth hostel. As at February 2007, Kuanxiangzi Lu is undergoing extensive reservations, and it appears that Xiaoguanyuan Rest House has closed down.
* The Loft Located three blocks north of Dragon Town Hostel. Very modern hostel. Use to be a printing factory but now converted to a contemporary style hostel. Has free pool table, free Internet access (Nov.2006), TV and DVD. Rooms are clean. Twins and doubles cost ¥120.
[edit] Mid Range
The vast majority of Chengdu's mid-range hotels are not afiliated with a national or international brand and generally charge between RMB 300 to RMB 700 per night. The hotels in this category can generally put up the facade of the more luxurious hotels, but often suffer noticeably from deferred maintenance or haphazard customer service. Many are geared mostly towards Chinese and Asian tour groups. The hotels listed below are the best of the bunch with lobby staff who speak at least a basic level of English and usually offer a free Chinese breakfast.
* Sunjoy Hotel #34, 4th Section of Renmin nan lu. The Sunjoy is a 7 story hotel with a nice Chinese restaurant, good facilities and small but nice rooms. Chinese breakfast provided. Located near US Consulate. About RMB400/night.
* Jin Jiang Inn [17] Part of a China-wide hotel chain; 3 locations in Chengdu; the South Chengdu Yulin location is near Ren Min Nan Road and the US Consulate. Good value for money with rooms from ¥129-179 per night. Rooms are small but clean and well apportioned. Breakfast and free internet provided. Secure lobby area and friendly staff.
* Super 8 Hotel[18] In the SOHO Building, #60 Ke Hua Bei Lu, phone 86-28-85250058. Located above an enclosed shopping arcade, near the Western Gate of Sichuan University. Free internet. No breakfast. Rooms are small and poorly designed and priced from ¥139-188 per night.
Chengdu's luxury hotels provide world class service at very reasonable prices. Business and leisure travelers can expect, at a minimum, to find fluent English speaking staff, Western and Chinese restaurants, full conference facilities, business center, sauna and concierge service at all of these hotels. Room rates range from US$105 - $US200 per night for a standard or deluxe room. The Kempinski and the Jin Jiang hotel are generally the lowest price within this category.
* Chengdu Lido Sheraton[19] Modern, American managed hotel conveniently located in in the center of Chengdu near Tian Fu Square and the sports stadium, but a few blocks away from shopping districts. This hotel can accommodate the most discriminating of guests in luxury and world class service.
* Sofitel Chengdu[20]: French managed, overlooks Fulan river, similar to but more expensive than the Sheraton.
* Jin Jiang Hotel[21]: Chengdu's first international luxury hotel, the Jin Jiang still offers good service. While it has been eclipsed in luxury by the newer hotels listed in this section, it offers reasonable room rates and great service, with good facilities for conferences of all sizes.
* Kempinski Hotel[22]: German managed hotel offers hospitality and luxury. Great German events, including Ocktoberfest, Christmas and New Year's parties. Excellent gym, pool and workout facilities. Close to the United States Consulate.
* Holiday Inn Crowne Plaza Hotel[23]: The Holiday Inn goes all out to indulge its guests with the finest of service. Great service, very responsive management.
[edit] Consulates
* United States Consualte General[24] (美国驻成都总领事馆) #4 Linshiguan Lu, Chengdu. Phone 8558-3992. American Citizen Services hours Monday-Thursday 1:30pm-5:00pm, Fridays 9:00-4:00pm.
* Royal Thai Consulate[25] (泰国驻昆明总领事馆驻成都办事处) Located in the Kempinski Hotel: 42 Renmin Nan Rd. 4th Section C210-212, Sichuan 610041
* German Consulate General (德意志联邦共和国驻成都总领事馆) 25th Floor of Western Tower located at No. 19, 4th Section Renmin Nan Road, Chengdu 610041, Tel: (0086-28)8528 0800 Fax: (0086-28) 8526 8308
* Consulate General of Singapore (新加坡驻成都总领事馆) 31/F East Guan Cheng Square, No.308, Shun Cheng Main Street, Chengdu. Phone 86 28 8652 7222
* Consulate General of the Republic of Korea (韩国驻成都总领事馆) No. 2, Wangfu Oasis Hotel, Xianan Main Street of Chengdu. Phone 86 28 8616 5800
[edit] Phone
China's country code is 86. Chengdu's area code is 28. Coin-operated pay phones are located throughout Chengdu, and calling cards can be purchased from many vendors. Local landline phone numbers are eight digits long; cellular phone numbers in Sichuan are elevin digits long and start with 13.
[edit] Internet
Internet access can be found in most guesthouses and through cheap internet cafes all over town. Look out for the Pacman-character 吧 in the Chinese name for internet bar: 网吧.
* A large Internet cafe is located on the second floor of the Xinnianmen bus station, just 100 meters from the Jiaotong Fandian hotel. The connection is fast and access is ¥2/hour.
Thieves are prevalent around certain areas of Chengdu. Be careful around the Yanshikou markets and especially around the North train station. There are also many thieves on crowded buses who use razors to cut open pockets and bags. Also watch your bag at all times when riding bicycles around the city, thieves like to run alongside bicycles at traffic lights and reach into bags.
For such a big city, there's surprisingly little Western influence in Chengdu. It's definitely not Beijing or Shanghai. This might at first be a little trying, as the level of English is spoken is noticeably lower than other places, but it's really a blessing. Carry a phrasebook or get a guide, and enjoy a more authentic Chinese urban experience!
Chengdu is the gateway to Sichuan. Daytrips and trek can be organized to any major attraction is the province. The Giant Budda, Mount Qincheng, Stone Elephant Lake and Jian Chuan Museum can all be reached by regular bus or tour bus (ask your hotel for guidance). Families and those short of time might consider hiring a car with driver (¥300-900 per day, depending upon type of car and experience of driver, with cars booked at the luxury hotels the most expensive and highest quality).
* The Giant Buddha in Leshan is probably the most popular nearby destination. A day trip to this ancient man-made wonder should be about ¥100-150. Two day tours are available which combine the Buddha with a visit to the nearby Buddhist holy mountain Emei Shan.
* Mount Qincheng and the Dujiangyan irrigation system (built 250 BC) are easy day trips about 40km from Chengdu and make for a fascinating visit. You can do both sites in one long day, or better yet, plan to spend a day at each. Qingchen is a beautiful mountain with an extensive and well kept network of steps and pathways, and includes many pogadas, a small lake, and a chair-lift for those who don't want to walk. Dujianyan has a fascinating history and a marvelous swinging pedestrian bridge. Both trips involve lots of walking. The entrance fees for both sites are not cheap. The mountain is ¥90. The cable car up is ¥35 one way or ¥60 round trip. There is a boat one needs to take to cross a natural pond for ¥5. The irrigation system costs an additional ¥90 to enter.
* Stone Elephant Lake Ecological Resort(石象湖) [26] is a fantastic park with acres upon acres of live tulips and tiger lily flowers as well as nature walks and boat rides, and stone carved animals. The best time to go is during the Tulip Festival in early Spring and when the Tiger Lillies bloom in late summer, however, various flowers are usually in bloom from March through August and the nature walks are open year round. Bring your camera. Also bring a picnic lunch or eat in one of the several Chinese restaurants and noodle shops there. The park is about an hour and 15 minutes drive of pure highway driving south of Chengdu. Arrange a car to take you there or ask about bus service. Admission is ¥50.
* Jian Chuan Museum Cluster Industrialist Fan Jian Chuan built this campus of museums to explain the history of 20th Century China. This is the first privately owned museum in Sichuan (privately operated museums in China have only been permitted since the year 2001). The Museum campus contains four buildings about World War II in China - one explaining the Communist Party role, one the Kuomington, one about the American volunteer group "Flying Tigers", and one about Sichuan volunteers. There is also a the modestly named "New China Porcelian Museum", which actually tells the story of the Cultural Revolution through porcelians of that era. A museum that more directly addresses that era is under construction. You will also see buildings explaining the practice of foot-binding and one about prisoners of war. Nearby, you can also walk through a landlord's manor. Make a day trip out of it; the Musuem is in the nearby county of Dayi about an hour's drive from Chengdu. Admission is ¥60. Get around the museum cluster by walking or rent a bicycle built for two; a tea-house is located on site.
* Bi Feng Xia[27] Bi Feng Xia is a large ecological park in the mountains about a two and a half hour drive from Chengdu. It centers around a huge gorge with waterfalls. One can hike down into the gorge on well marked paths and take an elevator back up. The park also has special panda bear habitats, as well as a more traditional "zoo". The main reason to go here is for the walks and hikes into the gorge. The zoo, although filled with animals such as tigers, lions, bears, monkeys, and even a drive-through section, has woefully inadequate and sometimes smelly enclosures. (The enormous bird aviary is one exception). Admission is about ¥80, with additional charges for bus rides between different sections of the park. There is a hotel and basic restaurants on site. Given the distance from Chengdu, probably best to make an overnight trip if you wish to stay here.
* Further afield, you can also trek out to the Tibetan areas of Sichuan. Buses leave everyday for Moxi and other towns. These long bus trips from Xinnanmen-bus station (it's about seven hours to Moxi, and the heating systems on buses in the winter are painfully inadequate) pass through incredibly steep mountain valleys wandering through the Gongga Mountain range. This all terminates at the Hailuogo Glacier, a massive park nearly nine hours from Chengdu. A good two or three day trip.
* To the north there are the Sichuan horse plains and the Jiezhaigou Valley.
Train connections are available to Kunming in Yunnan, Chongqing and Xi'an. Frequent buses also leave for Chongqing, which is the beginning of many cruises down the Yangtze. These tours are available around town in Chengdu, and include transport to Chongqing, about three or four hours away.
written by  garisti on May 1, 2008 from Chengdu, China

Chuzhou, China
Pendiente
written by  garisti on May 1, 2008 from Chuzhou, China

Shanghai, China
Shanghai (上海 Shànghǎi), with a population of more than 18 million (and over 5.8 million migrants), is one of the most populous and most developed cities in the People's Republic of China.
Shanghai was the largest and most prosperous city in the Far East during the 1930s, and remained the most developed city in Communist China. In the 1990s Shanghai again became an attractive spot for tourists worldwide.
[edit] Districts
Shanghai is split in two by the Huangpu River (黄浦江 huángpǔ jiāng), with the older town on the west bank known as Puxi (浦西 pǔ xī) and the brash new development on the east side being Pudong (浦东 pǔdōng).
Areas within Puxi:
* The Bund (外滩 wàitān) - the colonial riverside of old (and reborn) Shanghai, including the Yuyuan Gardens (豫园 yùyuán)
* French Concession - the leafy district once knows as the Paris of the East, including the refurbished shikumen houses of Xintiandi
* Shanghai/Xujiahui - Southwest part of Shanghai
* Gubei/Hong-Qiao - Close to the old international airport, a Carrefour, and with a large expat population
* Nanjing Road - China's most famous shopping street, leading to People's Park (人民公园 rénmín gōngyuán) and Jing'an (静安 jìng ān)
* Hongkou (虹口 hóngkǒu) - home of Fudan and Tongji university, plus a park and museum for famed writer Lu Xun.
* Yangpu (杨浦 yángpǔ) - contains the excellent and spacious gongqing forest park (共青森林公园 gòngqīng sēnlín gōngyuán)
and across the river:
* Pudong - the skyscraper-laden new financial and commercial district on the east bank of the river
Outlying districts:
* 嘉定 - Jiādìng
* 青浦 - QīngPǔ
* 金山 - JīnShān
* 南汇 - NánHuì
* 松江 - SōngJiāng
* 宝山 - BǎoShān
Shanghai is a fascinating mix of East and West. It has historic shikumen houses that blended the styles of Chinese houses with European design flair, and it has one of the richest collections of art deco buildings in the world. Because there were so many Concessions (designated districts) to Western powers during the turn of the 20th century, at times the city has the feel of Paris or Montreal, while Tudor style buildings give a German flair, and the 1930s buildings put you in New York or Chicago.
In the beginning of the 1990s, the Shanghai government launched a series of new strategies to attract foreign investments. The biggest move was to open up Pudong, once a rural area of Shanghai. The strategies succeeded, and now Pudong has become the financial district of Shanghai, with numerous skyscrapers.
Today Shanghai's goal is to develop into a world-class financial and economic center of China, and even Asia. In achieving this goal Shanghai faces competition from Hong Kong, which has the advantage of a stronger legal system and greater banking and service expertise. Shanghai has stronger links to the Chinese interior and to the central government in addition to a stronger manufacturing and technology base. Since the handover of Hong Kong to the PRC, Shanghai has increased its role in finance, banking, and as a major destination for corporate headquarters, fueling demand for a highly educated and westernized workforce.
Due to rapid industrial and economic development, as well as lax governmental environment policies, Shanghai has recently been ranked as one of the most polluted cities in the world. Individuals with asthma or respiratory issues should be prepared when visiting the city.
Shanghai is one of China's main travel hubs and getting in from pretty much anywhere is easy.
Shanghai has two main airports [1], with Pudong the main international gateway and Hongqiao serving most domestic flights. Be sure to check which one your flight is leaving from, and allow at least one hour, preferably 1.5 hours, to transfer if needed!
Domestic airplane tickets should be booked at least two days in advance at one of the many travel agencies. Fares are generally cheap, but vary depending on the season. When backpacking, it may often be better to book a flight along a big traffic line (Beijing-Shanghai, Beijing-Chongqing, Shanghai-Shenzhen, ...) and travel the rest by bus or train.
* Beijing - varying between 400,- to 1200,- Yuan per economy class ticket, depending on the season, where the peak is in the summer.
[edit] Pudong International Airport
Transrapid trains at Longyang Station
Pudong (浦东机场, PVG, [2]) is Shanghai's new international airport, located 40 km to the east of the city. Arrivals on the first floor, departures on the third, and has all the features you'd expect - but head up to the 3rd if the sole ATM in the arrivals hall is out of order.
The most convenient but also the most expensive way to get to central Shanghai is by taxi, but figure on ¥145 and up to an hour to get to the center of the city. You should always check with your taxi driver prior to entering a taxi. Check that they know where you would like to go and the estimated cost to get there. Often taxi drivers can not speak English. Some Taxi drivers also use finders to wander the airport and bring you to their cab (who often have a driver waiting - this means you ride with two drivers if you agree to this). Use caution and double check the charges as some will try to charge up to 10 times the normal fare
Airport buses are considerably cheaper (¥15-22), but take up to an hour and a half and stop running at 9 PM. There are a number of routes, but two particularly convenient ones connect to the Airport City Terminal on Nanjing West Road (#2, ¥19) and Shanghai train station (#5, ¥18).
More a tourist attraction and prestige project than practical means of transport, the Transrapid maglev train is now open to the public and shuttles from Pudong to Longyang in 8 minutes flat at a blazing speed of 430 km/hour. However, it's then another half hour by subway to get to Puxi, and it's a bit of a hike both in the airport (2nd floor) and to transfer to the subway. That said, the maglev to Longyang and a taxi from there is the fastest way to get to the city, and the ride is definitely an experience in a rollercoasterish way. Services currently operate from 7 AM to 9 PM daily and cost ¥50 one way (¥40 if you have a same-day ticket) or ¥80 same-day return. You can also opt to pay double for "VIP Class", which gets you a soft drink and bragging rights.
[edit] Hongqiao Airport
Shanghai's older airport Hongqiao (虹桥机场 SHA) now services only domestic flights. 18 km away from the center, a taxi can manage the trip in 20 minutes on a good day but allow an extra 30 minutes for the taxi queue. Public buses (numbers 925 and 505) run to Renmin Square regularly and cost only ¥4, but take around an hour. An extension of Metro Line 2 to Hongqiao Airport is under construction.
Shanghai has several train stations.
* Shanghai Railway Station (上海站). Shanghai's largest and oldest, located in Zhabei district, on the intersection of Metro Lines 1, 3 and 4. Practically all trains used to terminate here,including trains to Hong Kong. But southern services are being shifted out to the new South Station.
* Shanghai South Railway Station (上海南站). A new, greatly expanded terminal opened in July 2006 and and is set to take over all services towards the south. On Metro lines 1 and 3.
* Shanghai West Railway Station (上海西站). The smallest of the three, with limited services to Yantai, Zaozhuang, Hengyang, Ganzhou, Chengdu. Not reachable by metro.
Train tickets are also most conveniently booked in advance at one of the many travel service agencies. If urgent, they could also be directly booked at the train stations and the Shanghai Railway Station even has an English counter.
* Beijing (北京)- there are a number of brand new night sleep trains running daily from Shanghai to Beijing, starting at 7pm in 10 minute intervals to 8pm and arriving at 7-8am in Beijing. Fare is around 500,- Yuan for a softsleeper, but they are very clean and the four-person cabins very comfortable. In the same new train, normal hardseaters area available for around 250,- Yuan. For these trains, food is only served in the direction from Shanghai to Beijing, but on the same connection from Beijing to Shanghai, no food is served yet, so prepare yourself with some instant noodles or snacks. For a regular normal sleeper in a standard train, which takes 18 hours from Shanghai to Beijing, expect to pay 200-300,- Yuan with no food either.
In recent years many highways have been built, linking Shanghai to other cities in the region, including Nanjing, Suzhou, Hangzhou, etc. It only takes 2 hours to reach Shanghai from Hangzhou.
There are several long-distance bus stations in Shanghai, but most buses only go to small towns nearby the city. And you should try to get the tickets as early as possible.
If you intend to stay in Shanghai for a longer time the Shanghai Jiaotong Card (上海公共交通卡) can come in handy. You can load the card with money and use it in buses, the metro and even taxis. You can get these cards at any metro/subway station, as well as some convenience stores like Alldays and KeDi.
[edit] By metro
Shanghai metro map
The fast-growing Shanghai Metro network now has 5 lines with another 4 under construction. The trains are fast, cheap and fairly user-friendly with most signs also in English, but the trains can get very packed at rush hour. Fares range from ¥2 to ¥8 depending on distance and you’ll need plenty of ¥1 or ¥0.5 coins or cash for the ticket vending machines, although most stations also have staff selling tickets. You can now transfer between lines freely with a single ticket. The metro can also use Shanghai's public transportation card (noncontact).
[edit] By taxi
Taxi is generally a good choice for transportation in the city. It is affordable (only 11 yuan for the first 3km) and saves you a lot of time, but try to get your destination in Chinese characters as communication can be an issue. Drivers, while generally honest, are sometimes genuinely clueless and sometimes out to take you for a ride. Insist on using the meter and, if your fare seems out of line, demand a printed receipt before paying.
If you come across a row of parked taxis and have a choice of which one to get in to, you may wish to check the number of stars the driver has. These are displayed below the driver's photograph on the dashboard in front of the passenger seat. The amount of stars indicates the length of time the driver has been in the taxi business and the level of positive feedback received from customers, and range from zero stars to five. Drivers with one star or more should know all major locations in Shanghai, and those with three stars should be able to recognise even lesser-known addresses. Remember that it takes time to build up these stars, and so don't panic if you find yourself with a driver who doesn't have any - just have them assure you that they know where they are going and you should be fine.
Taxi colors in Shanghai are strictly controlled and indicate the company the taxi belongs to. Turquoise taxis operated by Dazhong (大众), the largest group, are often judged the best of the bunch. Watch out for dark red taxis, since this is the 'default' color of small taxi companies and includes more than its fair share of bad apples; bright red taxis, on the other hand, are unionized and quite OK.
[edit] By sightseeing bus
There are several different companies offering sightseeing buses with various routes and packages covering the main sights such as the Shanghai Zoo, Oriental Pearl TV Tower, and Baoyang Road Harbor. Most of the sightseeing buses leave from the Shanghai stadium's east bus
[edit] On foot
Shanghai is a good city for walking, especially in the older parts of the city across the Huangpu from Pudong. Of course, given the large population, you should expect heavy concentrations of pedestrians and vehicles, but that is part of the excitement. Crossing large roads, in particular, can get hairy and it's advisable to follow the locals.
Where in Shanghai to go depends largely on your time period of interest. See Shanghai for the first-timer for a sample itinerary.
* For Imperial China, check out the Yuyuan Gardens with interesting buildings but a bit too much tourist oriented.
* For 1930s Shanghai, head for the stately old buildings of the Bund. Or pay a visit to The French Concession (close Huai Hai Park).
* For 21st-century Shanghai, cross the river to gawp at the skyscrapers of Pudong.
* To find some peace, you should visit the Longhua Temple. It takes a while to get there but it's not as busy as the Jade Buddha Temple and the experience is fulfilling. You can also have a nice vegetarian Buddhist meal in both Temples.
* Visit the Moganshan Road area for an insider's look into the hot contemporary Chinese art scene. Private tours available daily, contact ARTTOURSCHINA.
Shanghai is a huge city, so all individual listings should be moved to the appropriate district articles. Please help sort them out if you are familiar with this city.
* Walk Along the Fu Xing Rd (复兴路) to see the old buildings and enjoy the neatness of the road
* Take an elevator to the top of the Oriental Pearl TV Tower (东方明珠, the tallest TV tower in Asia with the height of 468 metres, and on a good day the sprawling views are spectacular!)
* Enter Shanghai Xintiandi (新天地) Located at Lane 181, Taicang Road. A small pedestrianised area of the city featuring rebuilt traditional shikumen [stone gate] houses. Housing a cinema complex,mall, numerous bars, cafés and art galleries marketed towards foreign visitors and the more affluent locals. Close to where the communist party headquarters were located.
* Enter Shanghai International Convention Center Shanghai International Convention Center was opened for business in August 1999. The '99 Fortune Global Forum was held here. It is located in the southwest of the Oriental Pearl TV Tower in Pudong. It covers an area of 45,000 square meters with a landscaped square of 30,000 square meters. It consists of several modernized halls including a 42,000-sq.m. Multi-functional hall, a 25,000-sq.m. Exhibition hall, an 11,000-sq.m. Underground exhibition hall and 20 meeting rooms of different sizes. There are 259 guest rooms, including presidential suites, executive suites, standard rooms, Chinese and Western restaurants, a coffee room, a nightclub, a show room, a gym, a swimming pool, a bowling room, a billiard room, a sauna bath and a shopping
* See the giant panda and many more exotic animals at the Shanghai Zoo. Located nearby Hongqiao airport, this is a spacious and modern zoo that's for the most part a far cry from the concrete animal prison in Beijing. Open daily from 6:30 to 17:00 (16:30 in winter), tickets are 30Y, or 40Y including an elephant show. One kid not taller than 1.2m gets in for free together with one paying adult. Take bus 925 from Renmin Square (3Y) for about 45 minutes. Please follow the signs (even if the locals do not) and do not feed or tease the animals.
Shanghai urban development is all about the 'five year plan'. Visit the Urban Planning Museum in People's Square for a fascinating look into Shanghai's colourful past, and learn about development strategies for the future. There is a heavy focus on eco-friendly satellite cities with spacious public centres and loads of greenery. The trip is worth it just for the scale model of Shanghai in ten years, located on the fourth floor, and the virtual tour of up-and-coming large scale public projects, including the World Expo 2010 site.
There is lots of work for expatriates in Shanghai today. Construction is proceeding at an incredible pace and the economy is booming.
Shop until you drop on China's premier shopping street Nanjing Road, or head for the Yuyuan Bazaar for Chinese crafts and jewelry not far from the Bund. Nanjing Road is a long street. The more famous part lies in the east near the Bund (Nanjing Road East), with a 1-km long pedestrian boulevard (Metro line 2 at Henan Road station) lined with busy shops. The wide boulevard is often packed with people on weekends and holidays. The shops are often targeted at domestic tourists, so the prices are surprisingly reasonable. Local people often look down on Nanjing Road and shop at Huaihai Road (another busy shopping boulevard with more upscale stores) instead. For the very high end, go to the west end of Nanjing Road West near Jing'an Temple. Several large shopping malls (Plaza 66 aka Henglong Plaza, Citic Plaza, Meilongzhen Plaza, and others being built) house boutiques bearing the most famous names in fashion. No. 3 on the Bund is another high-end shopping center featuring Giorgio Armani's flagship store in China.
The infamous Xiangyang Market was finally shut down for good in June 2006. There are a few other shopping malls which have sprouted up where you can also purchase knock-off products. The horrendously crowded Qi Pu Lu clothing market is a mass of stalls jammed into a warehouse sized building which would take the casual stroller most of a day to look through. Another option is the Pearl Plaza located on Yan An Xi Lu and Hong Mei Lu as well as the unassuming shopping center located on the corner of Nan Jing Xi Lu and Chong Qing Lu. Haggling can be fun for those who are accustomed to it, but those sensitive to the pressure might want to steer clear. Not only can it be stressful to haggle, but just walking in to the buildings can bring a horde of people upon you trying to sell you bags, watches, DVDs and all assortment of goods.
But rather than pursuing knock-offs of Western brands, one of the more interesting things to do in Shanghai is to check out the small boutiques along Chang Le Lu and other streets in the French Concession area. Some of these are run by individual designers of clothing, jewelry etc and so the items on sale can truly be said to be unique. Visitors from overseas should expect the usual problem of finding larger sizes however...
Shanghai Foreign Languages Bookstore (Shanghai Book Traders) in 390 Fuzhou Road offers a lot of books in English and other major languages, especially for learning Chinese. Fuzhou Road is also a good street to wander around and find Chinese calligraphy related shops.
Those interested in DVDs of movies and television shows have a wide variety of options. Aside from the people selling DVDs out of boxes on street corners you can also find a good selection of movies at many local DVD shops in most neighborhoods. Perhaps the best way to score a deal with a shop is to be a regular. If you provide them repeat business they are usually quite happy to give you discounts for your loyal patronage. Typically DVDs can cost anywhere from 5 RMB for standard disks to 10-12 RMB for DVD-9 format disks.
However, if you are short on time in Shanghai and don't have the means to form a relationship with a shop, many people recommend the Ka De Club. An expat favorite for years, they have two shops: one in 483, Zhen Ning Road and the other one in 505, Da Gu Road (a small street between Wei Hai Road and Yan An Road). While the selection at the Ka De Club isn't bad the downside of this store's popularity is that with so many foreigners giving them business, you tend to get somewhat higher prices than at local shops and haggling and repeat customer bargains are pretty much non-existent.
Antiques, jade and communist China memorabilia can be found in Dong Tai Road Street Market, where you must bargain if you want to get a fair deal.
Shanghainese cuisine is one of the lesser-known types of Chinese food, generally characterized as sweet and oily. The name "Shanghai" means "above the sea", so unsurprisingly seafood predominates, the usual style of preparation being steaming. Some Shanghainese dishes to look out for:
* xiao long baozi (小籠包子, lit. buns from the little steaming cage, or little dragon buns), probably the most famous Shanghai dish: small steamed dumplings full of tasty (and boiling hot!) broth and a dab of meat. The connoisseur bites a little hole into them first, sips the broth, then dips them in rice vinegar (醋 cu) to season the meat inside.
* dazha xie (hairy crabs), best eaten in the winter months (Oct-Dec) and paired with Shaoxing wine to balance out your yin and yang
* xiefen shizitou (crab powder lion heads), actually pork meatballs containing crab meat
* zui ji (drunken chicken), chicken steamed then marinated in rice wine, usually served cold
* "You Tiao" , one kind of breakfast that is very popular in Shanghai
For cheap Chinese eats, head for the alley known as Wujiang Road. For fancier food in nicer surroundings, try the upmarket restaurants of Xintiandi.
Vegetarians should not miss Vegetarian Life Style (258, Fengxian Road and 77, Songshan Road) where you can experience nice, affordable and organic vegetarian food resembling real meat or fish dishes in a fancy atmosphere. Link
Tap water is not drinkable, but generally OK if boiled, though you may not like the taste. Tap water is also said to contain a high amount of heavy metals. Bottled water (and beer) are widely available.
The prices of drinks in cafes and bars in Shanghai vary depending on the location and target customers. They can be cheap or be real budget-busters, with a basic coffee or beer costing anything from ¥10 to ¥40 and up if ordered in the "wrong" place.
When buying bottled water you will come along a whole range of mineral water. Of course you could go for the "Evian", "Volvic", but you could also get yourself a bottle of the local Nongfu Spring brand (Nong Fu Kuang Quan Shui) mineral water. That one is produced in China and is the best value for your money. A 0,2 l bottle will cost you about 1 to 2 RMB (~0,10 Euro). If you intend to stay for a longer period, you may want to buy yourself one of those plastic water dispensers. Those you can mount with those 8-10 l water tanks, which can be ordered via phone. Clean those units with a bottle of white vinegar. That way you can keep your machine free of any germs.
Try the local brew known as REEB or beer spelled backwards. A six pack will set you back about $1.50.
Shanghai is filled with amazing nightlife, complete with affordable bars and nightclubs that are jam-packed with beautiful people. A must-try dance club for international visitors is Pegasus (Thursday nights are hip hop nights). Other great bars & clubs include the famous Park 97 and Windows.
Accommodation in Shanghai is generally on the expensive side, by both Chinese and Western standards. A few backpacker style options have cropped up though, mostly in the older parts of town near The Bund.
* Captain Hostel, 37 Fuzhou Rd, tel. +86-21-63235053 [3] Located just off the Bund. Expect to pay 70RMB/night for a dorm. 400RMB/night for a twin/double. Very clean. A boat style theme in each room of the hostel.
* A cheapest but classy option would also be the Astor House Hotel (formerly known as Pujiang Fandian), placed right next to The Bund in a building full of history (established in 1846, it was the first Parliament of China). The hotel has a wide range of prices, including a Youth Hostel in its 5th floor [4].
* The Shanghai Music Conservatory offers twin dorm rooms for about 100 Yuan per night, which works out to be 50 per person, cheaper than hostel beds. It's located right off of Huaihai Rd. on Fenyang Rd., well-placed for shopping on Huaihai Rd. The dorm rooms are located in the international students' building. Things are pretty quiet but you can expect to meet some foregin exchange students in China. 20 Fenyang Lu, Tel: (0086) 21-64372577
Medium-price hotels do exist within walking distance the Bund. The Xinkaifu Dajiudian on North Sichuan Road is an excellent three star hotel for under US$50, including breakfast.
There are plenty of options in the upper price brackets, which for Shanghai tends to mean at least US$100. Many, including the super-luxury Grand Hyatt in the spectacular 88-floor Jin Mao Tower, are located in Pudong, which is convenient for business but perhaps not so good for tourism. For a taste of 1930s Shanghai, try the stately Peace Hotel or the Gothamesque Park Hotel. Other 1930s hotels include the Rui Jin Guesthouse on Ruijin Road and Donghu hotel on Huaihai Road.
Shanghai is a fairly safe city, and violent crimes are very rare even in the poorest neighborhoods. However, the ever-increasing divide between the haves and have-nots has created its fair share of problems and petty crimes like pickpocketing are on the rise, and sexual harassment is common on crowded subway trains and buses.
Various tourist-oriented scams, long practiced in Beijing, are unfortunately spreading to Shanghai as well. Be cautious if you meet a group of overly friendly students or attractive women who insist on dragging you along to an art gallery, tea shop or karaoke parlor - you're unlikely to be physically harmed, but the bill may well be more than you bargained for.
Foreign males often attract unsolicited attention from female sex workers at many nightspots.
For visitors unused to travel in China the language barrier is likely to be the biggest obstacle, as English ability tends to be very limited in all but the largest tourist draws. Mandarin-learners need to be aware that Shanghainese, a Wu dialect, is the language of the streets and very different from Mandarin, although all Shanghainese speak fluent Mandarin and use of Shanghainese in public has been discouraged by the government. Rudimentary Chinese and/or pattern matching ability for character recognition will help, as will getting your destination written in Chinese characters particularly when travelling by taxi.
* Hangzhou, 200 km away and reachable in 2-3 hours by train, is China's number one domestic tourist attraction featuring the famous Xihu Lake.
* Jiading, an historic town about an hour NW of Shanghai by bus from Nanjing Xi Lu and Cheng Du Lu. The sites are Shanghai's F1 track, a Confucian garden, and pagoda.
* Qibao, an small ancient town, about 15km from Shanghai city, just in between the city and Minhang district. It resembles the more famous water town, Zhouzhuang.
* Songjiang, a county in Shanghai province, some 30km southwest of Shanghai city. It is less crowded than Shanghai and is a good one day trip target.
* Suzhou, a historic town about an hour away from Shanghai by train. The city has long been lauded by emperors, ancient poets, and scholars alike for its beauty and vitality. Due to its many canals and bridges, Suzhou has also sometimes been referred as "Venice of the East".
* Xitang, an historic town SW of Shanghai. A few scenes from Mission Impossible 3 were filmed here. An old picturesque canal town with old bridges and houses lining the canal lit up at night with red lanterns. You can even stay a night in one of the old houses and sleep in an old bed too.
* Zhujiajiao, a historic town an hour by car west of Shanghai. Another of those picturesque canal towns dating from the Ming dynasty (14th to 17th centuries).
written by  garisti on May 1, 2008 from Shanghai, China

Hangzhou, China
Hangzhou (杭州 Hángzhōu; [1]) is in Zhejiang Province, China.
View over West Lake
Famed for its natural scenery, Hangzhou and its West Lake (西湖 Xī Hú) have been immortalized by countless poets and artists. The city was the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty from 1127 until the Mongol invasion of 1276, during which time the city's population is estimated to have been as high as one million, making it the largest city in the world. Even Marco Polo claimed to have passed through, calling it "beyond dispute the finest and the noblest in the world".
With the gradual silting up of its harbor much of the city's trade and industry passed to nearby Shanghai, but the city still has a bustling population of 1.7 million and ranks as one of China's most popular tourist attractions.
Despite the name, Hangzhou Xiaoshan International Airport (HGH) generally services domestic Chinese flights. There are frequent services to Beijing and Hong Kong, but using Shanghai's domestic Hongqiao or international Pudong airports and connecting by bus or train is also a viable option. International flights are possible. International cities that have service to Hangzhou include Tokyo, Osaka, Bangkok, Seoul, and Singapore.
The airport is approximately 45 minutes - one hour away from the city by taxi. A taxi to or from the airport is around Y80-90; on the wayback, you should ask if the driver is willing to take you that far before just jumping in the car with all your bags. A cheaper route would be to buy tickets for the shuttle service (15 RMB) to/from the Xiaoshan Bus ticket office on Tiyuchang Road next to the KFC just west of Wulin Square. The Shangri-La Hotel also has a shuttle service to/from the airport for Y50, inquire within.
Alternatively, if flying into Pudong Airport in Shanghai, there are direct buses to Hangzhou. They leave from the 2nd floor parking lot across from Gate 15 of Pudong Airport, departing every 1.5 hours from 10:30am until 5:00pm. It costs Y100 (Summer 2005 price). These buses arrive at the Hangzhou Yellow Dragon Sports Center (soccer stadium).
A train from Shanghai is the easiest way to get to Hangzhou. Frequent trains run from Shanghai Zhan (Main) Railway station and from the new Shanghai South Station, both on Metro line 1. Check the train schedule for the duration of the trip as some trains are considerably faster than others. In general, the train will take between 1 hour and 45 minutes to 2 hours and 30 minutes, but "local" trains can take over 3 hours. Also, it is better to arrive in Hangzhou at the main Hangzhou station, rather than the East Hangzhou Railway station as the main station is right in town.
In addition to Shanghai, Hangzhou Train Station serves trains from Guangzhou, Beijing, Chengdu, and everywhere in between. For destinations further away, such as Kunming and Urumqi, you would first want to go to Shanghai or some halfway-point train station. There is an East Train Station as well, but it is not a very nice part of town. Recently there is a new train started which takes 2 hours from Hangzhou to Shanghai and its quite convenient. - Utkarsh
Hangzhou has 4 bus stations (N, E, W, and S). Usually, your destination corresponds to the bus station, eg if you are going to Shanghai, try the north or east bus station. If you are going to Huangshan, buses leave from the West Bus Station, etc.
For travel to or from Shanghai, the bus has become at times more convenient than the train, as it can be more comfortable if only hard seater train tickets exist, and the buses depart more frequently than trains. From Shanghai, buses depart from the north bus station (Hengfen Lu), the PuDong bus station (Bailianjing, PuDong Nan Lu), and from Xujiahui Bus Station, ticket cost Y58 (Dec. 2005 price). These buses arrive at the north bus station of Hanzhou.
[edit] By boat
There are overnight boats to Wuxi and Suzhou along the Hangzhou-Beijing Grand Canal. Tickets can be purchased at the wharf ticket window one block north of Wulin Square (208 Huancheng North Road). The mid-range and upper level tickets are worth the splurge (tickets are between 70 and 130 renminbi). Bear in mind that the overnight voyage is mostly in darkness, so don't expect much scenery.
Hangzhou has an extensive bus network, but you must be able to read Chinese to ride the crowded buses with ease. However, any bus that has a "Y" before the bus number (Y2, Y5, etc) are always "youke" - tourist buses, and are guaranteed to take you to a tourist site for ¥3 - ¥5. Therefore, if you want to just ride Y buses around all day, you will save money and still see the sites without having to tell the taxi drivers where you want to go in Chinese.
Otherwise, a bus with just a number will cost you ¥1, and a bus with a "K" before the number (air conditioned) is ¥2. Night buses are usually ¥2.5. Don't take those prices as regular, since buses in Hangzhou are operated by different companies, which means different prices. But even if you don't understand Chinese, don't worry about this, since the fare is written at the bus line station, so you can prepare your coins in advance. (Better have the exact fare, because they don't give change money). You can also give them the 1 RMB-bill instead of some coins, even when the system says "just coins". Payage is directly with the driver, buses in Hangzhou don't have a salesperson inside as they have in Shanghai.
[edit] By taxi
Like most major world cities, Hangzhou has a large number of taxis which allow for quick and convenient travel within the city proper. Most of the city's taxis are green in color and easily identifiable by the word "Taxi" printed in both English and Chinese on the vehicles. Taxis for hire are marked by the green (or sometimes yellow-orange) light-up signs above the dashboard on each car.
Hangzhou taxi drivers always use the meter as required by law. All routes under four kilometers are charged a flat rate of 11 RMB (addition of a 1 RMB gas increase mandated by the government as of August 1, 2006). There is no time-cost in Hangzhou for the taxis; it's just for the distance. It is advisable to take a receipt each time use you a taxi, should you wish to contact the taxi company or driver at later time to dispute a fee, recover a lost article, etc.
Few, if any, of they city's taxi drivers speak English or other foreign languages. It is therefore important that you be able to point out your destination on map, present the driver with the name of the destination (in written Chinese), or properly pronounce the name of the destination in spoken Mandarin Chinese. If you have a Chinese acquaintance whom you can reach by cell phone, you can allow him or her to speak to your driver through the phone to convey the desired information.
Hangzhou taxis are not allowed to carry more than four passengers, although you may be able to convince or bribe a driver to allow you to "hide" an extra passenger in the backseat. This can be worth if the trouble or expense if it saves your group from needing to take two taxis.
Taxis, like all public transportation, are difficult to come by during the tourist weeks (Chinese New Year, May Golden Week, and October National Week); also, taxis between 7:30 and 8:45am and 5:30-7:00pm are difficult to flag, as they are always full or in the middle of a shift change. A good rule of thumb is that if you need a taxi, there won't be any, but if you don't need one, they will be driving extremely slow in the right lane disrupting traffic and honking and flashing their brights at you. Being familiar with areas that taxis frequent or places where taxi passengers are likely to be dropped off at will aid you in finding a ride.
Line 1 is scheduled to be completed in 2008, and line 2 shortly thereafter; a total of 8 lines covering over 200km have been planned. The opening dates of the lines are "last", it means they can open earlier in case they pass the security checks quicker. For example, Nanjing's new subway system was opened ahead-of-time, after safety checks were passed, and the same happened in Shanghai. Don't be surprised to take the subway as early as 2007.
[edit] By "water bus"
This ferry down the Grand Canal takes 30 minutes but only makes 4 trips per day, the first at 7:30am and the last at 6:00pm. It starts at Wulin Gate/West Lake Culture Plaza and ends at Gongchen Bridge, with one stop at Xingyifang Grand Canal Culture Plaza. Cost is 3 RMB. While rarely worth taking the trip, Hangzhou now has plans to connect a series of canals and streams throughout the city with the Grand Canal, West Lake, Yuhang River, and Qiantang River, making for increased water transport and a Venetian feel. When this will be completed (if it even happens) is anyone's guess.
For just getting to the islands on West Lake, you get to choose between tourist trap Dragon or "Gaily-painted" pleasure boats (¥45 and ¥35). There are also medium-sized power boats (¥25), or for ¥160 you can hire a driver to paddle you around for about an hour. The boats are available in Hubin #X (1, 3, 6) parks and other obviously marked areas all over the lake.
[edit] Maps
Buy maps near the Train Station or Bus Station from street vendors or stalls when you arrive. Price is often marked on the maps themselves, if you are wondering how much to pay (under 10 RMB -- well worth it and hard to find maps elsewhere in town!). Street-bought maps are usually written in simplified Chinese with no pinyin. You can find pinyin maps at foreign language bookstores.
[edit] West Lake (西湖 Xī Hú)
Hangzhou's most famous scenic sight. Technically, there are "10 Scenes of the West Lake" and "10 New Scenes," but they are overrated, and often seasonal (Snowfall Over Broken Bridge, etc). Rather than make a checklist and walking back and forth looking for them, simply spend a clear day wandering the circumference of the lake and the causeways, take a ferry to the islands, and you will probably cover most of the sites anyway. The "West Lake" itself can be divided into countless smaller sites, from Mr. Guo's villa to "Orioles Singing in the Willows".
The "West Lake Scenic Area" itself is very large. This section only covers areas in the immediate vicinity of the lake. Other spots are covered in later sections.
* Lesser Yingzhou Isle (Three Pools Mirroring the Moon) "Built" in the early 1600s, this is the largest island on the lake. When there is a full moon, candles inside the pagodas are lit, and in the candle light it appears as though you see the moonlight (if you are romantic enough to see it). Hence the name.
* Mid-Lake Pavilion From 1552, it is the oldest island. There is a Chinese inscription on the Qing Dynasty-era stone arch in which the Qing Emperor wrote "Chong Er", or "Enless Love".
* Lord Ruan's Mound This is a mound they made from piling up dirt after dredging the lake 200 years ago. However, it is not just a dirt mound. At night (summer), entertainment activities are going on in the garden on the island.
* Hubin #X Park Hubin Parks 1, 3, 6 and probably the numbers in between are the parks between Hubin Road and the West Lake. Relatively newly-designed as the West Lake Tunnel that goes underneath was being built in early 2004, these parks are good to sit for a bit, buy ice cream or a newspaper, and most importantly hire a boat from the cluster of boat docks at each park.
* Su Causeway Almost 3km long, this causeway dates from the year 1189 and has a bunch of willows and peach trees. It is long north-south causeway that starts by the Shangri-La on Beishan Road and goes all the way down to Nanshan Road.
* Bai Causeway Starting at the eastern end of Beishan Road, this cause way leads to Solitary Hill and cuts off the distances between, say, Hubin Road and the Shangri La.
* Solidary Hill And Zhongshan Park Where Loud Wai Lou restaurant is located, this is the only natural island on the lake. At least 3 emperor's constructed palaces here. Besides an expensive restaurant, the popular area is the home of the Xiling Seal-Engravers' Society, and the seals, calligraphy, engraving-masters, and relics that go along with it.
* Yang Causeway This one is more than 3km long and one road west of the Su Causeway. It starts at the intersection of Beishan and Shuguang Road (which becomes Yang Causeway once you are south of this intersection); the causeway runs north-south. Yang Causeway includes Quyuan Garden (aka Qu Garden aka Qu Courtyard), which is the most popular spot to see tons of lotus blossoms (late spring > summer). The water area to the west of the top of Yang Causeway is Maojiabu Scenic area, with orchids blended into the water scenery. Another tourist spot on Yang Causeway is Mr. Guo's Villa, is was built in 1907 and is considered one of the most "classical" gardens in Hangzhou. At the southern end of the causeway, just before Nanshan Road, is a fish-viewing pond.
* King Qian's Memorial (Qian Wang Ci) 5 kings of the Wuyue Kingdom are buried here in this memorial on the south end of the lake off Nanshan Road.
* Wushan Square (吴山广场 Wu Shan Guang Chang) Wushan Square and Wushan Hill is a major town center in Hangzhou. The view from the top is excellent on a clear day, and there are also trails around the hills from behind the pagoda. The pagoda itself has been modernized with an elevator and nice open-air teahouse at the top, but the original bell is still intact and in use. This area also features easy access to Hefang Jie shopping street at the base of the hill, full of small pedestrian streets and shopping stalls. It is also extremely close to the West Lake itself.
* Jade Emperor Hill (玉皇山公园 Yuhuang Shan Gong Yuan) One of the least-visited sites in Hangzou despite its somewhat central location, this hill does not feature any prominent pagodas or temples, but can still provide a quiet escape and a nice walk. It is located directly south of Leifeng Pagoda. If you are playing along with the "10 Scenes of the West Lake" scavenger hunt still, the one that applies to the top of this hill is "clouds flying over Jade Emperor Hill".
[edit] Temples and pagodas
* Six Harmonies Pagoda (六和塔 Liùhé Tǎ). Down by the Qiantang River, about a 15 minute cab ride from the lake in light traffic, but it is a pretty road to drive down through all the tunnels and tea fields. Besides the pagoda itself, which is arguable the most prominent of all the temples and pagodas in Hangzhou, there is an adjacent park with hundreds of realistic replicas of the world's most famous pagodas, complete with mini-sized trees in front of the pagoda models.
* Lingyin Temple (灵隐寺 Língyǐn Sì) Meaning "heart of the soul's retreat", this temple west of the West Lake is an active Buddhist temple at the bottom of a hill. Nearby you can take a chairlift to the top of the hill where there is another temple (walking up is also an easy set of stairs below the chairlift). This is one of the 3 oldest and most famous temples in China. There are hundreds of Buddhist stone statues carved into the cliffs in the "Peak Flying from Afar" section next door.
* Leifeng Pagoda Located on the shores of the southeast side of the lake and originally built in the year 977, all that remains of the original pagoda is the crumbling foundation, viewable from outside the glass case that it is housed in (Pagoda Remains Memorial Museum at the bottom floor of the pagoda). With escalators, elevators, and a totally new pagoda places on top of the foundation, there is not much to see within the pagoda itself; it was most recently rebuilt in 2000. However, the view of the city skyline is one of the best from here, and some of the smaller seating areas around the perimeter of the pagoda have a nice breeze and view of the structure. One of the 10 Scenes of the West Lake is "Leifeng Pagoda in Evening Glow", but this is best viewed from a distance (across the lake) just after sunset. Keep in mind that the entry fee for the Leifeng Pagoda is very expensive (40 RMB/person, Dec 2005) and it's not original, just rebuilt, so if your budget is not that huge, consider to not enter the Pagoda. You can still take pictures in front of it.
* Baochu Pagoda (保俶塔 Bǎochù Tǎ) and the surrounding temples on this hill on the north side of the lake. You cannot climb the pagoda, but the view and surrounding Baoshi Hill are awesome.
* Jingci Temple Off Nanshan Road, built in 954, this has a huge 10-ton bell inside. Located on Nanping Road, they ring the bell 108 times here to ring in Chinese New Year. It is also rung every evening for much fewer times.
[edit] Gardens, forests, nature
* Longjing (Dragon Well) Tea Fields (龙井茶园 Long Jing Cha Yuan) and other tea fields further west. These are best visited during the harvest period, usually from the first week of March till after May Holiday, when everyone is out in the field picking tea and the tea that you can purchase is of the best quality (tea crops from later in the year have had their leaves damaged by the rain).
* Guo's Villa (Guo Zhuang) is the best existing traditional private garden in Hangzhou. It is one of the garden masterpieces of Jiangnan (the lower region of the Yangtze River) thanks to its incomparable surroundings and the smartly managed garden space. The garden develops as you enter further into it with regular switches between tight, closed spaces and sudden, open ones. The key feature, or spirit, is water. Cleaverly juxtaposing shade and light, curved and straight, yin and yang, the garden of Guo Zhuang is a wonderful embodiment of the Chinese wisdom of Tao and the Way of Nature. The teahouse, Liang Yi Xuan (Belevedere of Both Good) sits in a prime viewing sopt within the garden between two superb water "yards", one large and the other small. While there are plenty of "old villas" in China to visit-- and many are similar-- this one is also on the shore of the West Lake. The 10 yuan entry fee keeps many people away, and you can have some tea (40 yuan) on the lakeside pavilions of the villa while avoiding the tourists.
* Hangzhou Botanical Gardens (植物园 Zhi Wu Yuan) and flower nursery as well nearby. If you can't make it to Suzhou, these gardens aren't bad, especially in the spring and during the brief period when the leaves change in the fall. There is also a peacock farm, some nice ponds, and basically a wide range of plants and ecosystems to walk through. The redwood tree that Nixon donated during his visit has since died (in 2001).
* Xixi National Wetlands Park Opened in May 2005, this wetlands park is located in the extreme west part of the city past the west bus station. One of the easiest ways to get there would be to take a bus from Huanglong Soccer Stadium. While it may be somewhat out of the way and the road signs have the English translation as an uninviting "Xixi Swamp", this area is not to be missed, as currently the tourists are not too many, and it is a great way to see birds and other wildlife. The birds are especially beautiful and varied.
* Dreaming of the Tiger Spring (虎跑梦泉 Hǔpǎomèngquán) is a spring as well as a scenic and historic destination. The area includes wooded pathways, streams, bamboo groves, tea houses, historic structures, as well as the spring itself and other sights. Admission is ¥15. Tea brewed with the high-quality Tiger Spring water may be purchased for about ¥20 a glass.
* Hangzhou Zoo (杭州动物园 Hángzhōu Dòngwùyuán) It has pandas and everything and is conveniently located just south of the lake, but it is not recommended to visit most zoos in China, as the animals are exploited and treated poorly (generally speaking). At least stay away from the dog exhibit. This zoo is definitely one of the worst ones in China. Besides a few animals which have good cages (mostly water-animals) it has terrible conditions for the Panda, most Bears and other larger animals like the Elephants. Still, they made improvements compared to a few years ago, and it seems it's mostly the missing support of larger investments that seems to hinder further development in a better zoo. The entrance fee includes a circus-style animal show with tigers, lions, bears and elephants that is particularly entertaining for children (if a little depressing for adults).
Lesser panda in Hangzhou Zoo
On the northern side of Baochu hill near the soccer stadium is Huanglong Cave (For "Scenes of The West Lake", this cave covers "Yellow Dragon Cave Dressed in Green").
* Early morning bikeride Start on the north side of the lake, and head west towards Zhejiang University, then down Lingyin Road past the Botanical Gardens and into Longjing Village. Keep heading West and south through the tea villages, bamboo forest, and scenic valleys to the river and cut over towards Six Harmonies Pagoda. Go back to the south end of the lake via the road right next to Six Harmonies, past the zoo, through the tunnels.
* Walk around the lake You can also hire small non-motor powered boats (¥80/hour for personal boat with driver, or use the ferry services) to take you around the lake and to the two islands, which feature some interesting sites.
* Visit the temples and pagodas The most popular ones are Baochu pagoda, which is the tower-like one on a hill on the north side of the lake. This hill is a great hike, with excellent views of the lake and city, several smaller temples of a variety of religions, and Huanglong Cave on the northern slope of the hill. 6 Harmonies Pagoda, located on the river, is the largest and most imposing. A fun hike after the pagoda leads from the shores of the river, behind the pagoda, and into the Longjing tea fields near the tea museum. Lingyin Temple, on the west side of the lake, is also a large complex with a surprisingly devout crowd of worshipers. This area also has many excellent hikes, as well as a cable car to the top of Beifeng Hill (with another temple at the top). Finally, Leifeng Pagoda has recently been rebuilt and has escalators and elevators, while all that remains of the foundation is on display on the main level. Despite its lack of ancient Chinese beauty, the benches and gazebo-like structures surrounding the area make for a nice place to sit in the breeze, and it also has an excellent view looking in the opposite direction as the Baochu area.
* Spend an afternoon at a tea house
* Shopping -- see the "Buy" section for more info.
* The West Lake Golf Club near Six Harmonies Pagoda and Songcheng was designed by Jack Nicklaus.
* Boating along the Hangzhou-Beijing Canal is becoming more popular.
* Zhejiang University, Yuquan Campus, [2]. This university is the product of combining four formerly individual universities: Zhejiang University, Hangzhou University, Zhejiang Agricultural University and Zhejiang Medical University. The university offers 110 undergraduate, 264 masters and 181 doctoral degree areas. Tuition is extremely affordable from a Western perspective. Courses in Chinese language and culture are ¥18,000 (~$2,250 USD) a year, ¥9,000 a term, or ¥800 (~$100 USD) a week and are taught mostly in Chinese (with occasional English).
* English Corner, an informal gathering of Chinese interested in learning English and English-speaking foreigners every Sunday morning. It is located in the park on the northeastern shore of West Lake by the Korean War Memorial (a statue of a soldier with a long, flowing overcoat).
* Silk Market on Tiyuchang Road. You can also get silk at other places in the city, but most of it will just be the fabric.
* Night market off Yan'an Road near Pinghai Road (right near Wushan) every night. Here you can find Mao memorabilia, jewelry, paper fans, pipes, luggage, handicrafts and other items that most Chinese cities have. Pirated DVDs and counterfeit handbags are for sale as well. You can also find a lot of those silk-screen printed paintings/embroidery things that the silk market also has. Bargain hard unless you really want something.
* Electronics Market in northern Hangzhou is an indoor, multistory electronics shopping center offering all manner of electronics including desktop computers, laptops, computer software, cellphones, mp3 players, and hundreds of peripherals and storage media. Pirated DVDs and computer games are offered as well, and if you are obviously a foreigner, vendors will shout "DVD! DVD!" at you to urge you to browse their selection.
* Tea Dragon Well/Longjing tea is famous throughout China and worth getting if you like green tea. If you are staying with a Chinese host somewhere else in China after Hangzhou, bringing them a small box (or two) of higher-end Longjing Tea would make a great gift; however, bear in mind that these usually cost around ¥300/box (more at tourist stands). The Longjing village and tea fields area of Hangzhou (southwest of West Lake) is where Longjing tea is grown. Besides being worth a visit for the scenic sights alone, tea can be purchased here as well - fresh from the harvesters' bags if so desired. Many places across the city also sell tea, such as informal vendors and small shops easily identifiable by the boxes displayed inside or store names such as "西湖龙井茶" (West Lake Dragon Well Tea), as well as grocery stores and supermarket chains. Because of the fame of Longjing tea, fake and low-grade varieties exist. If you have no experience buying tea, purchase from a reputable-looking establishment or ask the advise of a knowledgeable native.
* Clothes Hangzhou has literally hundreds of clothes and shoes stores. The largest concentration of these are on Yan'an Rd and especially Wulin Rd, making a straight line of clothes shops stacked on top of each other between Wushan and Wulin Squares. Another popular clothing spot is "Song Mu Chang" (松木场) just north of the lake on Shuguang Road. All of these places require bargaining and often have a lot of fake ripoff clothes. For the real thing, try the department stores (ie Hangzhou Tower across between Yan'an and Nanshan Roads). You can certainly find cheaper clothes stores scattered throughout the city as you get farther from the lake if you really like to buy clothes.
* Landscape paintings There are several places to buy Chinese landscape paintings in the city, especially near Wushan Square and around the south/east side of the lake.
* Groceries can usually be found without having to go far - hundreds of small grocery stores, convenience stores, and fruit and meat markets are scattered across Hangzhou. Use your own best judgment when deciding if the food sold at such places is sanitary enough for consumption.
* Carrefour have a supermarket in the downtown area east of West Lake. In addition its large selection of groceries, it carries a wider variety of Western foods such as cheeses and bread than most other locations in the city.
* Trust-Mart (好又多) is a superstore chain Westerners may recognize as being similar to Wal-Mart. Located in the shopping center near the Yellow Dragon Sports Stadium north of West Lake and the Baochu Pagoda area, the store has a large grocery section that boasts fresh meats, seafood, and produce as well as the normal selection of packaged food.
* Bicycles of low to medium quality are available from small bike shops scattered across Hangzhou. The indoor Electric Bike Market near the corner of Wener and Xueyuan Lu offers a huge assortment of electric bikes/scooters and batteries, and Trust-Mart (see above) also has a reasonable selection of bicycles and a small selection of electric bikes/scooters.
Hangzhou is one of the premier places to eat in China, and its food consists more of pork and seafood rather than the beef and lamb of the north and west. If you do not like Hangzhou food, you can find plenty of Sichuan, Shaanxi, and Xinjiang restaurants throughout the city. Typical Hangzhou specialties include dongpo rou, an extremely fatty chunk of pork in a syrupy sauce, and cuyu, which is fish with a vinegar sauce.
For budget restaurants, even near the lake, just head into an alley and get some food from a small restaurant or street-side stand. You should judge for yourself how sanitary the food is, but Hangzhou is generally fairly civilized in this respect relative to other Chinese cities. These restaurants are all quite similar.
If you like dumplings and have just come down the north side of Baochu hill (past the cave and in view of the soccer stadium), one option is to continue across Shuguang Road and up Hangda Road (0.5 blocks east and 1 block north) to Tianmushan Road. At the corner of Tianmushan and Hangda Roads are 2 decent dumpling restaurants with English menus available (one is upstairs from the other). They have many of varieties of dumplings, including all-vegetable.
Hangzhou has many KFCs, several McDonalds, and an increasing number of Pizza Huts throughout town, especially near the lake.
Other restaurants that are good and aren't as tourist-trappy can as Lou Wai Lou are located near the West Lake, usually to the East past Hubin Road in the Yan'an Road area.
For Xinjiang, try the restaurant inside Tiandu Hotel on Zhongshan Bei Road near Wulin Square. The Xinjiang restaurant on the 5th floor of Sanrui Tower (三瑞大厦) is better and more authentic, but more out of the way as well.
* Chuan Wei Guan. For Hot Pot, this city-wide chain (5 restaurants throughout town) is best, and this hotpot place also has several good Sichuan dishes.
* Grandma's Kitchen (外婆家) has at least 5 locations in Hangzhou, including one on Yugu Road near the soccer stadium and Zhejiang University. It has efficient service, a comprehensive picture menu, and is popular among just about everyone.
* Paradise Cafe, Hubin Road. "American" food including the best burgers in town (besides the Hyatt, arguably) are at Paradise Cafe. It has nice outdoor/patio seating on the 3rd floor with a large tree overhanging and a great view of the lake and the tourists below. With bacon and cheese, a burger will run around Y50. You can find most other Western food in the hotels.
* Zhang Sheng Ji (张生记), 33 East Qingchun Road. Out of the way but is also huge and now has branches all over China.
[edit] Chinese
* Lou Wai Lou (楼外楼), right on the lake on an island off Beishan Road. The most famous restaurant in Hangzhou. Lou Wai Lou also has a second establishment called "Shan Wai Shan" right on the Botanical Gardens.
* Oriental Favorites Restaurant, Beishan Road (just past the Broken Bridge). A good replacement for Lou Wai Lou and has an equally good view with slightly cheaper prices (but it's still expensive).
* Hyatt Hotel, Hubin Road. Opened January 2005, the buffet here has everything you could ever want for about Y148 lunch and Y198 dinner with no drinks.
[edit] Japanese
There are lots of Japanese restaurants, many of which offer the "all you can eat and drink" deal for between 120 and 200 renminbi, which is a good deal when you consider the Sake and plum wine are included, and is a good way to start off a weekend night.
* Fu Gang, Tiyuchang Road (near Wulin Square). Hangzhou's most famous Japanese restaurant, although it does not offer an all-you-can-eat deal. It does have a sushi train and set meals though.
* Mu Zhi Lan, Nanshan Rd (next to the Bernini coffee shop). One of the best, especially location-wise. The all-you-can-eat deal is around Y180, but the seating and views are excellent, as is the food.
[edit] South-East Asian
* Banana Leaf, Xueshi Rd (next to the Hyatt on the east side of the lake). South-East Asian. Reservations are recommended on weekends. Although there is a pleasant atmosphere, many customers find that the food is untraditional and difficult to stomach. A nicer alternative is Curry Bistro near the Wenyi Lu Wumei shopping center.
* Liu Lian Piao Piao, Gaoyin Rd (just off Hefang Jie by Wushan Square). A newer Thai Restaurant. The food is more authentic than Banana Leaf, and if you are unable to find it, there are plenty of interesting restaurants on this street and it is worth taking a walk down.
[edit] Western
* Caribbean BBQ, Yan'an Road (near Wushan Square). It is not very authentic, but is a buffet-style restaurant that will probably at least leave you with a full stomach.
* La Tour, Hubin Rd. The oysters and some other buffet dishes are good, but the odd restaurant layout and lack of "take off" have made the dishes arrive cold, not taste very authentic, and are rather overpriced.
* Peppino, Shangri-La Hotel. Expensive but does have an authentic brick oven, great bread, and huge calzones.
* La Belle, situated across the street at the Lake, it offers real authentic, high-class Italian food. Especially recommended for lunch, where you can spend less then 50 RMB for getting excellent food. Dinner is usually a little bit more expensive, but you get a real great experience, usually with live music as well. I don't have a clue how this restaurant survives, since it's almost always empty, but instead of meaning "bad food" which is usually the reason to have an empty restaurant, it's more the place in the second floor (having stairways) that could hinder people to find it. Great to spend your evening in a lovely place, especially for couples.
[edit] Indian
* Haveli, 77 Nanshan Rd . Excellent Indian food, though not cheap. Indoor and outdoor dining.
* Indian Kitchen, 63 Nanshan Road, All you can eat/all you can drink buffet on Saturday & Sunday nights. ¥78, excellent service & excellent food.
The drink of choice in Hangzhou is tea, as the local Longjing (龙井, also Lung Ching, literally "Dragon Well") is the most famous green tea in China. Longjing is divided into seven grades, the two top being Superior (旗枪 qiqiang) and Special (雀舌 queshe), and the rest numbered from 1 down to 5. Prices for the very best stuff go into the stratosphere — in 2005, a mere 100g plucked from Qing Dynasty emperor Qian Long's personal trees sold for over US$17,000 — but a few cups in a local teahouse shouldn't cost you more than a few dozen yuan.
Traditionally, tea from Longjing is best served with spring water from Hupao (虎跑, "Tiger Run"), which is located next to the West Lake. You might have to purchase the tea from the tea shop in Hupao, instead of bringing your own. It's about 20 yuan per cup, but you get a thermal full of hot water with the purchase.
* Linglong Town, located on Nanshan Road to the west of most of the bars. Has large smoothies that are excellent for hot days. The restaurant also has many types of tea and good-tasting Taiwanese fare.
For bars, Nanshan Road all night every night should keep any visitor occupied. There are also a few bars (Reggae, Travellers, You Too, and Maya) on Shuguang Road due east of Zhejiang University. The "Cool Bar" on West Lake Ave by Wushan Square has Budweiser for as low as Y5/bottle (the Wushan Square area also has several other bars, including the popular expat hangout Shamrock Irish Pub). The Huanglong soccer stadium is full of bars around the perimeter of the building, as well as a "Huanglong Bar City" set behind the stadium.
* Hangzhou International Youth Hostel, Nanshan Road (right on the south end of the lake and just off "bar street"). Run by Hosteling International and has a friendly staff. Y40 w/membership, Y50 without membership, per night, 6 people to a room (you can get doubles as well for about Y200, including a lakeview double for Y250). All rooms and toilet/shower are extremely clean. Despite being literally a few paces from the clubs of Nanshan Road, this hostel is set back far enough to be relatively noise free and features a comfortable courtyard/patio with a pond. The lobby also has a boring bar and an all-right breakfast.
* Green Tea Youth Hostel, Lingyin Road (near Lingyin Temple). Not affiliated with Hosteling International, this hostel is much quieter and set back in the hills, but the staff is not as helpful. Also, beware that the bar next door, "31 Bar", often has live music during the summer which can make this hostel even louder than the Nanshan Road one.
* Hangzhou Garden Youth Hostel opened in 2006 on ZhaoGong Causeway near the Hangzhou Botanic Gardens on the western shore of West Lake. It is part of Hostelling International and consists of a a beautifully restored historic courtyard building. Dorm rooms have very clean, upmarket ensuite bathrooms with 24 hr hot water. The hostel is very convenient for walking and sightseeing around West Lake but its biggest drawback is the distance to restaurants and nightlife. It is a 15 minute walk to the bar/tea house/restaurant strip on Shuguang Road.
You can find mid-range hotels all over the city, most of which will take foreigners. Try to bargain for a room. Ask how much they want for one night's stay, then say "what if I stay for 3 nights?" or something to that extent and it will become cheaper.
* SouthLine Hotel (Nanxian Dajiudian), tel. +86-571-8777-3939, e-mail southline@vip.163.com. A small but clean, well-located and reasonably well-appointed mid-range hotel one-half block off the lake and right next to the Zhejiang Art Academy on Nanshan Rd. Prices range from US$40 per night to over $100. The friendly staff speaks some (although limited) English.
* Jinhui Hotel (金汇大酒店), 7 Moganshan Road. A large hotel far enough away from the main sites to be a bit cheaper, but close enough to be a quick bike ride/taxi ride or even a 20-30 minute walk to the city side of the lake (all on the same street, just walk due south past the provincial government). One benefit of this hotel is that an English-speaking CYTS office is on the 3rd floor.
* Shangri-La while the Hyatt may have better service, especially for business travelers, the Shangri-La has an ideal location, forested grounds, and is essentially a self-contained luxury village; a great place for a holiday.
* Radisson right on Wulin Square.
* Ramada (Haihua Binguan), Qingchun Road (near the West Lake). Located between Wulin Road and the West Lake, although lake-view rooms are somewhat limited and not very intimate.
* Hyatt, Hubin Road (right on the eastern shore of the lake). New and awe-inspiring.
* Wang Hu/Lakeside Hotel, Hubin Road, cnr Qingchun Rd, has a great location and fabulous international buffet breakfast.
* Huachen-Tang Palace (25. Pinghai Road) is a new four star hotel only 5 minutes walk to the West Lake and with a fabulous international buffet breakfast. Excellent money value. Link
* Shanghai — less than two hours away by train
* Suzhou
* Wuxi
written by  garisti on May 1, 2008 from Hangzhou, China

Xiamen, China
Xiamen (厦门) is a coastal city in Fujian Province, China.
While not a "must see" destination, it has a number of attractions, an interesting history and is tourist friendly.
Until 1840, Western "barbarians" were allowed to trade only in Guangzhou, and only under strict controls. After China lost the First Opium War, Britain took Hong Kong and China was forced to open five "Treaty Ports": Guangzhou, Xiamen, Fuzhou, Ningbo and Shanghai.
In Xiamen, the island Gulang Yu became a foreign enclave with consulates and luxurious homes. Today it is a quiet area (no cars or motorcycles) and five minutes by ferry from downtown, and still quite scenic.
In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Fujian was a focus of missionary activity. There are still many historic churches in the region.
In the 1970s, Xiamen was made a Special Economic Zone to encourage development. This has worked. Xiamen has more Taiwan investment than any other mainland city, partly because the Minnan dialect spoken around Xiamen is nearly identical to Taiwanese. There is also a major influx of other foreign investment.
It is not Shanghai or Hong Kong, but compared to many other cities in China, Xiamen is definitely a very vibrant, affluent and modern place.
Xiamen has an international airport, code XMN, conveniently close to downtown, 30-40 RMB and 20 minutes by taxi.
* If you are flying to Xiamen from North America, consider Korean Air. They offer great discounts, and the Seoul Airport is the most user-friendly on the planet (free internet, nice free lounges with couches to stretch out on.
* If you are coming from elsewhere, look for cheap flights direct to Xiamen from Singapore or Bangkok. see Discount airlines in Asia for more information.
There are also expected train and bus services of any major city. The train however, is not a good option for trips along the coast — for example to Fuzhou, Shantou or Hong Kong — because it takes a circuitous route through the mountains. For those destinations, use the bus.
Some bus times and costs:
* Quanzhou: 35 RMB, 1.5 hours
* Fuzhou: 70-90 RMB, 4 hours
* Hong Kong, Guangzhou, Shenzhen or Zhuhai: around 300, overnight.
o There is a bus direct to Xiamen from Hong Kong airport.
o For trips to/from Hong Kong, try to choose a bus that goes all the way. With some tickets, you have to change busses at the Hong Kong - Shenzhen border.
You may come across references to a ferry service with Hong Kong. It no longer operates (as of November 2004).
Taxis are cheap and start at 8 yuan for the first 3 kilometers. The local bus system is very good, but the bus routes are listed in Mandarin and do not have English on them. Take the ferry to Gulangyu.
You could enjoy Xiamen's unique sceneries not only in the day but also in the night. Take a breather and walk beside the Yuandang lake in the evening and you could see how Xiamen transforms into a different setting - mushrooming lighted artistic sculptures, scent of the sea, and romantic lovers by the lake. Enjoy your stroll and notice that some residential and commercial buildings even have a "battle of the lights at night" (which is actually a battle of the business) - "simple" laser and light shows which attract attention - this is some form of an "advertisement" mostly by newly opened commercial buildings and some residentials to say that their business has opened or that business is ongoing as usual. When it's time for commercial businesses and residentials to close or "sleep" in the night, the simple lights attraction can't be seen anymore - this is one of those on-going efforts of the people on energy conservation. Be sure to see these places of interest, and see what are the differences viewing them during the day and night:
* Zhongshan road - see the yearly "facelifts" and notice that older buildings are becoming extinct and being replaced by modern ones
* The night markets - see how smaller businesses trade in the night.
* Public parks - are clean and set with greeneries.
* Yuandang lake - is mystical by day and magical by night, see how the egrets flock in the day and fly for home in the night.
* Bai Lu Zhou Park - a large and beautiful park. Go around 8:30 p.m. and enjoy the vendors, music, and dancing.
Xiamen is a most popular tourist city in Mainland China.
Check out the Xiamen Shopping A to Z section. Outside of China: http://amoymagic.com/shop.htm Within China: http://amoymagic.mts.cn/shop.htm
* There is a whole strip of cafes and bars along the lake next to the Marco Polo Hotel, more-or-less all with patios and/or balconies that give a view of the lake.
o Geo Geo Cafe, furthest from the hotel in that strip, serve good Italian and American food and coffee.
* On the side street off the lake by the hotel are several more places:
o Tutto Bene, a very good Italian place
o Javaroma, good coffee, run by an Aussie
* Local Chinese Restaurants
o Little Chili's offers excellent Chinese food at an affordable price. The menus are in Enlgish.
Gulang Yu is the place to stay if you desire a peaceful and attractive environment. There are several home hotels on this island. Naya Home Hotel [1] is recommended if you are looking for complete relaxation and homey treatment.
* Gem Hotel, [2]. Beautiful Japanese-style rooms overlooking much of downtown Xiamen. Includes (Chinese) buffet breakfast and free (wired) Internet access. Most of the staff speak English well and are extremely helpful. From ¥140/night.
* Lujiang Hotel is a grand old place, very central on Beach road, 100 metres North of the ferry station. The restaurant has excellent dim sum.
* Sheraton Xiamen Hotel is the latest international chain hotel to grace Xiamen's shores. It's very plush, and the Waves Pan Asian buffet is excellent.
* Sofitel Plaza Xiamen is super modern. The rooms use a lot of glass, if you're into that kind of thing.
* Marco Polo Hotel is the nicest hotel in Xiamen with a wonderful international buffet and great atmosphere.
* Riyuegu Hotsprings Resort is probably the most beautiful resort in Xiamen. Besides the regular accommodations, the resort also contains an exotic hot springs park. They have all sorts of flavors (like milk, rose, tea, etc.) mixed into their natural hot springs water. They also have a fantastic spa. It is worth a trip.
The area code for Xiamen is 0592. When calling from overseas, dial +86 592 XXXX-XXXX
written by  garisti on May 1, 2008 from Xiamen, China

Hong Kong (historical), Hong Kong
Hong Kong (香港 Heūnggóng in Cantonese, Xiānggǎng in Mandarin) [1] is a place with multiple personalities, as a result of being Cantonese with a long-time British influence and increasingly more China connections. Perhaps the hallmark of this city is the frenzied vibrancy and the world class cuisine.
On the surface, it's an urban landscape without the charm of what one would consider "China." It offers the same upscale shopping malls and boutiques found in other world cities. But the small curious nooks, as well as the beautiful greenery and hiking trails, make it unique. The city is also known for its incredible efficiency as a result of its convenient transport, quick customer service and fast pace.
Map of Hong Kong
[edit] History
In January 1841, as a result of the defeat of the Qing Dynasty of China in the First Opium War, Hong Kong became a British colony, under the Convention of Chuen Pi. After the defeat of China in the Second Opium War, the Kowloon Peninsula was ceded to Britain in 1860. In 1898, the New Territories — a rural area north of Boundary Street in Kowloon district — were leased to Britain for 99 years.
In 1984, the Chinese and British Governments signed the Joint Declaration on the Question of Hong Kong, giving Hong Kong back to China effective 1 July 1997. Hong Kong became a Special Administrative Region (SAR) of the Peoples Republic of China. Under the slogan "One Country, Two Systems", Hong Kong remains a capitalist economy without various restrictions that apply in mainland China such as news censorship and foreign exchange controls.
In accordance with the Joint Declaration, a Basic Law was enacted to serve in effect as a constitution for the Hong Kong SAR. In theory, Hong Kong enjoys "a high degree of autonomy" in most matters except foreign and defense affairs. In practice, it is more complex than that. Beijing exerts much influence and there are groups pushing for a more democratic regime.
[edit] Climate
Hong Kong can be a little chilly in the winter (10 degrees Celsius) and hot and humid in the summer. The best times of year to visit are thus late spring (March-April), when the average temperature is around 25°C and autumn between (September-November). Typhoons usually occur between June and September, can be dangerous and sometimes bring a halt to local business activities for a day or less. The weather in winter is unstable, ranging from under 10 to 20°C.
[edit] Festivals
* Chinese (Lunar) New Year
Although this may seem like an ideal time to go to Hong Kong, many shops and restaurants close down during the Chinese New Year. However, unlike Christmas in Europe where you can hardly find shops open on this big day, you can still get food and daily products easily during Lunar New Year.
* Spring Lantern Festival
If you go to Victoria Park of Hong Kong Island, you will have a great excursion of this tradition Chinese festival. A great deal of beautiful lanterns can be found.
* Ching Ming Festival
This festival in Spring is also known as grave sweeping day. As a tradition, members of the Chinese family go to the grave of their ancestors, sweep away the leaves and remove weeds around the grave area, with a view to showing respect to the deceased. Paper offerings are also burned including fake money.
* Cheung Chau Bun Festival
This is centered on the tiny island of Cheung Chau. In the past the festival has involved competitions with people climbing Bun Towers to snatch buns. After the accidental collapse of a bun tower in 1978 due to overload of people, the competition was abandoned. It was resumed in 2005 with new safety measures.
* Tuen Ng Festival
This is a festival in memory of a national hero.
* Mid Autumn Festival
This festival is celebrated on the fifteenth day of the eight lunar month. Moon cakes are eaten, which contain lotus seed paste and duck egg yolks. The festival is also known as the lantern festival and various parts of Hong Kong will be festooned with decorative lanterns which set the night scene ablaze with colour.
* Chung Yeung Festival
* Winter Festival
[edit] Books
Non-guidebooks about Hong Kong or by Hong Kong writers.
In English:
Myself a Mandarin: memoirs of a colonial magistrate, by Austin Coates.
Tai Pan and Noble House by James Clavell, two potboilers in his "Asian Saga" fiction series, set in Hong Kong.
The World of Suzy Wong by Richard Mason, the story of a prostitute.
Winter Stars: a collection of poems born between the Alps and the Tyrrhenian, by Beatrice Lao.
[edit] When to visit
The climate is ideal in October and November. The humidity is typically high in the spring and even worse in the summer, when high temperatures (usual max 33-34) are often recorded. Rugby fans, and those wishing to party, should come during the weekend of the Hong Kong Rugby Sevens. During the Chinese New Year, whilst there are some extra celebrating events such as a lion dances, fireworks, and parades, many shops and restaurants are closed for three days to a week. However, for the Chinese, it is a good time for family reunions and paying visits to relatives. Christmas is also a nice time to visit as shops and shopping centres are nicely decorated and the festive mood is everywhere in the city.
[edit] Districts
Hong Kong is divided into a number of distinctly different districts.
* Hong Kong Island was the site of the original British settlement. The Northern part of the Island is densely populated. Because of the scarcity of land supply, you'll find most of Hong Kong's skyscrapers and the famous skyline along the northern coastline. The main business and nightlife districts, in addition to the government offices, can be found here. The southern part of the Island has more leisure facilities, with beautiful beaches and luxury residential complexes.
* Kowloon is the peninsula jutting down towards Hong Kong Island. It is the most populous area in Hong Kong, at one time the most densely populated place in the world.
* The New Territories, named by the British officials when leased from the Chinese government in 1898, are Hong Kong's residential hinterland.
* The Outlying Islands are the 234 other islands in the territory ranging from Lantau (twice the size of Hong Kong Island) to rocks poking out of the sea. Situated on Lantau is Discovery Bay a resort type residential area and home to approximately 40000 inhabitants, many of them expats or middle class locals.
Hong Kong retains control of its own immigration. The good side of this is that, unlike mainland China, most Western visitors do not need to obtain visas in advance, but the bad side is that a separate visa is required to enter mainland China from Hong Kong. Detailed visa requirements are available from the Immigration Department. Anyone arriving at Hong Kong International Airport and requiring an onward visa for Mainland China, during your stay in Hong Kong, will find a kiosk in the downstairs foyer that issues them. A photo will be required and the staff will be happy to accomodate you.
Internationally, there is a major way to get into Hong Kong — through the modern Hong Kong International Airport (HKIA or HKG) which is also known as Chek Lap Kok, the name of the small island it was built over. The airport opened in July 1998, and is modern and efficient, for it has been named the Best Airport worldwide by Skytrax for five years.
There are many direct flights to Hong Kong from every continent in the world. Most major cities in Oceania, Europe and North America are all served with at least one daily flight. Sydney has 6 daily flights, London 11(1 to Gatwick), Frankfurt 2, Paris 3, Amsterdam 2, Los Angeles 4, San Francisco 3, Vancouver 3, New York 3, Chicago 2 and Toronto 2.
Flights between Hong Kong and other major Asian cities are extremely frequent: between 10 and 40 flights per day connect Hong Kong with Singapore, Taipei, Tokyo, Shanghai, Manila, Seoul, Bangkok and Beijing. Other routes may be cheaper, however. For destinations within China, it is often cheaper to fly from Shenzhen than from Hong Kong. For elsewhere in Asia, consider Macau. The discount airlines land there because it has lower fees than Hong Kong.
A new airline starting up in October 2006, Oasis Hong Kong Airlines [2], offer one-way tickets to London and soon other destinations in Europe and the US for as low as $1000 (HK Dollar), excluding taxes and fees.
Hong Kong International Airport is the third busiest airport in terms of passenger traffic in Asia and the second busiest airport in terms of cargo traffic in the world.
Outside the security area, travelers will find an efficient post office in the airport which provides boxes, wrapping material, scissors and tape. Travelers can reach Central, Hong Kong from the airport in less time than taking a local bus to the village on Chek Lap Kok.
There is a public lounge inside the airport with prices as follows (in HK Dollars):
* Shower Only $80
* 2 Hours Lounge Use $250
* 5 Hours Lounge Use with Seated Massage (15 mins) or Nap (2 hrs) $300
* 10 Hours Lounge Use with Seated Massage (15 mins) or Nap (2 hrs) $350
* Overnight Package with Shower + Nap (8 hrs) + Breakfast $450
* Whole Day Package with Lounge Use + Nap (8 hrs) $600
The exchange rate is usually around $1 US = $7.80 HK
[edit] Airport Express
Apart from taxi, the fastest local passenger transport to the airport is the Airport Express train that zips you in and out from the Kowloon and the Central district. The journey takes only 23 minutes, and there are plenty of baggage handling officers to help you get heavy bags on and off of the train. There is no need to tip them. Each way costs $60-$100, or a round trip for $110-$180, depending on the distance travelled. After arrival, free shuttle buses connecting to major hotels in Kowloon and Central are provided, or you can continue onward by MTR or taxi.
* The Airport Express Tourist Octopus 3-Day Hong Kong Transport Pass gives you an Octopus card (see Get Around) good for 3 days of unlimited MTR travel, plus one ride on the Airport Express (for $220) or two (for $300). In effect, you're paying $70 for 3 days on the MTR, which is a fair bit of travel but might be worth it if you're planning to visit the Lantau Island or the New Territories. You can return the card after use to get back $50 deposit, or keep it for your next trip — any leftover value will remain valid for 3 years. [You can also add money to the card, which you can use for payment at many vending machines, some stores, and when taking the Star Ferry.]
Scam Alert!: If you are traveling with two people, there is a single journey joint ticket, the cost is $160 (2 people) for a one way and $180 (2 people) for a round trip. If you buy from the counter the ticket agent may try to charge you double the price and pocket the rest. If you are unsure, buy from the machine.
If three or more people are traveling together, the Airport Express is more expensive than traveling by taxi. If you will need to take a taxi to your hotel after arriving the Airport Express Station, consider a direct taxi trip instead.
[edit] Airbus
The various Airbuses are cheaper, slower but more direct bus services to the city. For example, the A21 (HK$33) bus will take you down Nathan Road, the main artery of Kowloon, stopping outside many hotels and hostels. Lines A10, A11 and A12 go to Hong Kong Island ($48, $40 and $45 respectively). Alternatively, take bus S1 to Tung Chung ($3.50) and connect to the ordinary MTR for a cheap ride to the city (Kowloon $17, Hong Kong $23). The free Airport Express shuttle buses connect Kowloon and Hong Kong airport express stations to various hotels in each area.
For a full listing of buses available at HKIA refer to the airport website.
If you are on a budget, take an "E" route bus rather than the "A" routes bus, they take about 20 minutes longer (50-60 min instead of 35-40 min) and are about half price (e.g. $21 for the E11 from Central). These 'External' buses are aimed more at airport workers, so they make several detours around Tung Chung. They will give you a nice tour around the airport island. However, E22 (Kowloon KCR Station to Airport) takes about an hour to the airport comparing to A22 (as E22 tour around not only airport island but Kowloon peninsula).
[edit] Taxi
A taxi from the airport to the city will cost you around $300 depending on your exact destination. If you have 3 or more people travelling together, it is generally cheaper to travel by taxi than by Airport Express. Use the taxi with red body for destinations to Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, Green taxi is restricted to New Territories and Blue Taxi for Lantau Island
There is a large chart at the exit to the taxi stand, also available online, on the approximate fares to most destinations. The law is strict on taxi drivers charging according to the meter. The meter fare does not include the luggage fee, toll fee, waiting fee, pet fee.
Taxis from the Airport to downtown Kowloon do not suffer from much traffic congestion. If you are going to Hong Kong Island, tell the taxi driver to use "Western Harbour Crossing" to avoid congestion, but it will attract a surcharge.
From the airport there are private cars and vans operating illegally as taxis. Do not take these as they are not licensed and in case of accidents, your insurance will not cover you.
[edit] By outbound ferry
Hong Kong is only a 1 hour hydrofoil ride away from Macau, and there is good connectivity to mainland China as well. The main terminals are:
* Macau Ferry Terminal, 202 Connaught Road (Sheung Wan MTR exit D), Central
o TurboJet, 24 hours a day to Macau plus 6-8 times a day to the Shenzhen airport.
* China Ferry Terminal, 33 Canton Road (Tsim Sha Tsui MTR exit A1), Kowloon
o Chu Kong Shipping, to points throughout Guangdong and Guangzhou
o New World First Ferry, every 30 min to Macau
[edit] By land
Crossing the border to Mainland China puts you in Shenzhen, a well-developed boomtown. (Note that there are special visa regulations if you plan to visit Shenzhen.)
There are 4 checkpoints on the Hong Kong - Shenzhen boundary, namely Lo Wu, Lok Ma Chau, Man Kam To and Sha Tau Kok.
Lo Wu control point can only be accessed directly by KCR East Rail trains and is hence the most accessible. However, it is often congested with travellers during weekends and holidays. So if you want to avoid for the long queues, please use the other control points on holidays. Visa-on-arrival can be obtained on the Chinese side.
Lok Ma Chau control point can be accessed from Kowloon by taking the KCR West Rail. Leave at Long Ping Station and take the bus route 277 at the bus interchange. At Lok Ma Chau, you must switch to a yellow shuttle bus which takes you across the boundary. A faster approach is to alight at Kam Sheung Road Station and interchange with a cross boundary coach which takes you to the Chinese side of checkpoint without interchanging with the shuttle bus.
Alternatively, there are also some Cross Boundary coaches operating from the business districts in Kowloon or Hong Kong Island to the Chinese side of the checkpoint. If you take these coaches, there is no need to change for the yellow shuttle bus and hence it is a good choice for boundary crossing to avoid the queues.
There are 6 lines of short trip cross boundary coaches serves the port,
1. Jordan, Kowloon departs from Scout Centre, Austin Road, Tsim Sha Tsui (5 mins walk from Jordan MTR)
2. Mongkok, Kowloon departs from Portland Street, near Metropark Hotel Mongkok (exit from Prince Edward Hotel)
3. Wanchai, HK Island departs from Wanchai Ferry Bus Terminus
4. Kwun Tong, Kowloon departs from Lam Tin MTR, stops at Kwun Tong APM Shopping Plaza and Kwun Tong Rd, Kowloon Bay MTR
5. Tsuen Wan departs from Discovery Park Bus Terminus (10 mins walk from Tsuen Wan MTR)
6. Kam Sheng Road departs from Kam Sheung Road West Rail Stn
Except the route to Kam Sheng Road, 24 hour services are provided with half hourly or hourly departure in midnight and around 10-20 mins per bus during the day and evening.
Lok Ma Chau is a around-the-clock border crossing ; visa-on-arrival can be obtained on the Chinese side (subject to nationality, at current applications from USA passport holders are not accepted).
Man Kam To control point can be accessed by taking the cross-boundary coach on the bus interchange under the shopping centre of West Kowloon Centre, Sham Shui Po (near Sham Shui Po MTR)in Kowloon, which costs $35, the bus calls at Landmark North also, which is just adjacent to Sheung Shui KCR Station, with section fare of $22. It is seldom crowded with travellers even during holiday periods. You can also enjoy the free shuttle service outside the Chinese checkpoint, which takes you to the central area of Shenzhen. However, no Visa-on-arrival can be obtained on the Chinese side, which means you need to arrange for your visa in advanced before arrival.
It is the best route to go to the downtown in Shenzhen especially during holidays.
http://www.eebus.com/upload_doc/24hour_2/detail/11.jpg
Sha Tau Kok control point can be accessed by taking the cross-boundary coach on the bus interchange at Luen Wo Hui in Fanling and Kowloon Tong. It connects the eastern boundary of Hong Kong and Shenzhen and it is a bit remote from the central part on Shenzhen. As a consequence, only very few passengers choose to cross the boundary using this checkpoint. No Visa-on-arrival can be obtained on the Chinese side.
Coaches departs from Kowloon Tong MTR from 7:00 to 18:30 every 15 minuts which costs $20, which is also the cheapest direct coach to Shenzhen.
[edit] By bicycle
* CROSS-BORDER FACILITIES INTO MAINLAND CHINA
Probably of interest to cycle tourists' coming to Hong Kong is the cross border arrangements from the Mainland China as this is how many cyclists enter Hong Kong having come overland across China and beyond.
There are at present four main road-crossing points from Shenzhen, the large and rapidly expanding city to the north and two ferry terminals in Hong Kong where ferries can be taken to quite a few Chinese cities in the Pearl River Delta including Macao.
Of course there is also the excellent Hong Kong International Airport which services many flights from other Asian cities, Europe and beyond. Cyclists must note though that it virtually impossible to cycle to and away from the airport and that other travelers have had difficulty transporting their bike on otherwise excellent public transport.
1. Lok Ma Chau
Travelers entering Hong Kong first go through China immigration and then catch a bus to Hong Kong immigration checkpoint. Foot passengers have a choice of using the "yellow bus " to the Hong Kong Side or cross border buses which go eventually to different areas of Hong Kong. Bikes are currently not allowed on the yellow buses and have to be wheeled through China immigration to the bus terminus to buy a ticket the chosen destination. It's helpful to know where you want to go. Sometimes you need to pay for the bike(about $HK30).You then load the bike onto the bus yourself and have to unload again about 5 minutes later to go through HK immigration and then put it back on the bus. All passengers have to do this with their luggage. Usually this whole process is frenetic (even for locals) due to the number of people traveling over the border.
2. Lo Wu
A train runs from the border crossing at Lo Wu into the centre of Hong Kong and cycles are allowed on the train (known as the KCR) with the payment of between $20 and $40 depending upon the time of day and with the front wheel removed. As for all border crossings travelers have to pass through the Chinese side and then the Hong Kong side before boarding the train
3. Man Kam To and Sha Tau Kok
These two border crossings are usually used by heavy lorries and cars although it is possible to transit with cycles. Sha Tau Kok is used if the onward route is to the east of Guangdong.
However with the current arrangements it is recommended that cyclists use the road crossing at Lo Wu as this affords the easiest transit arrangements ton the urban areas of Hong Kong where most visitors will be accommodated.
4. Ferry Terminals on Hong Kong Island and Kowloon
Cyclists can usually travel easily with their bikes and luggage on one of the many ferries which ply up and down the Pearl River Delta. This is an excellent way to leave Hong Kong and to avoid the heavily industrialized area to the north of Hong Kong between Shenzhen and Guangzhou.
Kowloon Canton Railway runs regular Through Train service between Guangdong Province, Beijing and Shanghai. The through train terminus is Hung Hom Station on the Kowloon side, while the current terminus of the domestic service is East Tsim Sha Tsui station.
The destinations of the Intercity Passenger Service are Guangzhou (East), Dongguan, Foshan and Zhaoqing in Guangdong Province, as well as Beijing and Shanghai.
The online directory of [3] of Kowloon Canton Railway provides information on the timetable and fare information of the Intercity Passenger Service.
Train service between Hong Kong and Mainland China stops before midnight as the border, at Lo Wu, is closed at midnight.
Star Ferry and the Island skyline
Hong Kong's public transport system is highly developed, to the point where often the hardest part is choosing your means of transport. Centamap, produced by a local real estate agency, is one of the best tools in looking up location.
[edit] Octopus card
The Octopus payment card (八達通, Bat Dat Toong in Cantonese, with reference to a saying in Cantonese Sai Tung Bat Dat, which means convenient transport) is the heart of the public transport system. Octopus is a technology proposed in 1992, developed in 1995 and usable since September 1997. It is a contactless smart card. Even inside a wallet or bag, you can tap on card readers and the correct amount will be deducted from money stored. In addition to being used for all forms of public transport (except red minibuses and taxis), it is also accepted for payments in virtually all convenience stores, restaurant chains like McDonald's and Cafe de Coral, vending machines, all roadside parking and some car parks. Some housing estates and schools use the card for identification at entry.
When traveling by MTR, KCR, and some bus routes, payment by Octopus card always enjoys discount or rebate. It will always cost less to use Octopus card. As it has a fully refundable deposit on the card and on unused credit, it is highly advisable to get an Octopus card when in Hong Kong.
Basic adult Octopus cards cost $150, $100 face value plus $50 refundable deposit, but a $7 service charge now applies if returned in less than 3 months. Octopus cards can only carry $1000 HK at any time.
There is always a small machine near the ticket issue machines that allows you to check your Octopus cards' balance. There are 3 convenient ways to refill a card:
* Use the Add Value machines, which are always located next to the ticket machines. The machines accept cash, credit card, and (for certain machines) Electronic Funds Transfer.
* Going to customer service at any MTR or KCR station.
* Going to merchants that accept Octopus (ex. Mcdonalds, Cafe de Coral)
In addition to the Airport Express Octopus (see above), you can also buy a 24-hour pass for $50 at any MTR station; however, this is valid only on MTR lines.
Octopus card allows you to be in debit once, e.g. you may pay for a ride of $5 with a card of value $2 only, but you have to add value afterwards if you want to continue using it. You can add value to the card in MTR stations, KCR stations and also at all stores which accept Octopus card payment. An Octopus card can have a maximum negative value of $35.
[edit] By subway/underground railway
Map of the MTR System
Hong Kong's Mass Transit Railway (MTR) underground network is the fastest way to get around the city, but what you gain in speed you lose in views and (at least for short distances) price. There are five lines, with the most important ones for visitors being the busy Tsuen Wan Line (red), which tunnels from Central to Kowloon and down Nathan Road towards Tsuen Wan in the New Territories and the Island Line (blue) which runs along the north coast of the Island. The new Tung Chung Line (orange) is the fastest route to Lantau and one of the cheapest ways to the airport when coupled with the S1 shuttle bus stationed at Tung Chung MTR station. The line also provides a link to Hong Kong Disney Land via a change at Sunny Bay station.
Every MTR station has one Hang Seng Bank branch (except for the massive Hong Kong/Central station, which has two). Because they're a common feature, unambiguous and easy to find, they're a good place to tell people to meet you.
Note that in Hong Kong, a subway is an underground walkway, not an underground railway, as in most English speaking countries outside of North America. While most of the trains travel underground, there are also stations whose trains travel above raised platforms.
KCR system map
The Kowloon-Canton Railway (KCR) connects Kowloon to Canton (Guangdong) in mainland China, but is also an important commuter line. The main KCR East Rail terminates in East Tsim Sha Tsui, where you can interchange with the MTR and the Star Ferry.
The KCR West Rail links up Nam Cheong, which is on the reclaimed land next to Sham Shui Po, and Tuen Mun. It links Kowloon with the Western New Territories. Direct boundary crossing is now not available by KCR West Rail, but you can alight at Long Ping Station and take bus route 277 to the boundary. Alternatively, you can also alight at Kam Sheung Road Station and take the cross boundary coach with a promotional fare if you pay by Octopus card.
The Ma On Shan Railway, a branch of East Rail, starts at Tai Wai Station and terminates at Wu Kai Sha Station. Passengers can make use of the Ma On Shan Railway to travel to Ma On Shan, and to the more rural part of the Sai Kung Country Park.
Tourists can buy a day pass and enjoy unlimited rides on the KCR system including East Rail, West Rail and Ma On Shan Rail (excluding Racecourse and Lo Wu stations).
A station called West Kowloon Station is due to open in 2007 or 2008.
[edit] By tram
Hong Kong from the top of the Peak Tram
Operated by Hong Kong Tramways, the narrow double-decker city trams trundling on the north coast of Hong Kong Island are a Hong Kong icon. Trams are slower but the route along the length of Hong Kong Island's centre is useful and with a flat fare of only $2, they're the cheapest sightseeing tour around.
In a league of its own is the Peak Tram, Hong Kong's first mechanised mode of transport, opened back in 1888. The remarkably steep 1.7-km track up from Central to Victoria Peak is worth at least one trip despite the comparatively steep price ($20 one-way, $30 return; return tickets must be purchased in advance).
There are three flavours of bus available in Hong Kong, operated by a multitude of companies. While generally easy to use (especially with Octopus), signage in English can be sparse and finding your bus stop can get difficult. Buses are pretty much your only option for traveling around the south side of the island and Lantau.
The large double-decker buses cover practically all of the territory, stop frequently and charge varying fares depending on the distance. The first seats of the upper deck offer great views. The franchised bus operators in Hong Kong include Kowloon Motor Bus (KMB), Citybus, New World First Bus and New Lantao Bus. Route and fare information can be found on the companies web sites.
Van-sized public light buses carry a maximum of 16 passengers (seats only) and come in two varieties, namely red minibuses and green minibuses (also called maxicabs); the color refers to a wide stripe painted on top of the vehicle. Red minibuses can pick up and drop off passengers anywhere the law allows, while green minibuses follow a fixed route from point to point as fast as the traffic will allow (and then some). The Hong Kong Island green minibus #1 down from the Peak to Central is particularly exhilarating.
Kowloon Canton Railway also maintains its fleet of feeder buses. KCR passengers can enjoy a free feeder service if the payment is made by Octopus. The route K16 is especially useful for tourists who need to go to Tsim Sha Tsui from the New Territories and mainland China by rail.
Note that if paying in cash, the exact fare is required and no change can be given. Paying by Octopus is much more convenient.
Route numbering is independent in six regions: bus in Hong Kong Island/Kowloon/New Territories, bus in Lantau Island, green minibus in Hong Kong Island, green minibus in Kowloon, green minibus in New Territories and several exceptional auxiliary buses route. (Red minibus does not have a route number.) This leads to duplication of routes in different regions. Although the Transport Department of Hong Kong Government has been working on the unifying of the route numbers, it is still a little bit messy at the moment. If you are confused a bit by the numbering of routes, here is a suggestion: just remember the route number of buses in Hong Kong Island/Kowloon/New Territories only whenever it is necessary. In other special circumstances, ask the driver or the station staffs for the Lantau buses and green minibuses and they can answer you.
Generally you need not to mention which district the route belongs to when you are asking for directions (almost all people will assume you will asking for the route which runs in the district you are in, e.g. if you ask for bus route #2, locals will assume you will asking for bus route #2 running in Kowloon if you are in Kowloon), but you really need to mention whether the route is bus or minibus when you ask, since in some cases both bus and minibus can have same route number in the same area which are actually different routes. (e.g. there are both bus route #6 and minibus route #6 in Tsim Sha Tsui, which are actually different routes.)
If you are curious enough, you may discover a pattern on the allocation of buses in Hong Kong/Kowloon/NT:
* Prefix 1: routes use Cross Harbour Tunnel
* Prefix 2 refers to some air-conditioned bus routes
* Prefix 3 refers to several peak-hour only cross-harbour routes, Hong Kong Island recreational or special bus services
* Prefix 6 uses Eastern Harbour Crossing
* Prefix 7 refers to some Island Eastern Corridor routes, New World First Bus West Kowloon or Tseung Kwan O routes
* Prefix 8 refers to specialized Shatin Racecourse lines
* Prefix 9 uses Western Harbour Crossing
* Prefix A: Airport Airbus routes
* Prefix E: North Lantau external bus routes
* Prefix K: KCR Feeder Bus routes
* Prefix M: Some bus routes that are terminated at Airport Express station
* Prefix N: Overnight bus routes
* Prefix P: North Lantau peak-hour only routes
* Prefix R: North Lantau recreational bus routes (for Hong Kong Disneyland)
* Prefix S: Airport shuttle bus routes
* Prefix T: Recreational bus routes (T stands for tourists)
* Prefix X: Express routes for special services
* Suffix A, B, C, D, E, F: Conventional routes
* Suffix K: Mainly connecting to KCR East Rail stations
* Suffix M: Mainly connecting to MTR stations
* Suffix P: Mostly peak-hour only routes
* Suffix R: Recreational bus routes
* Suffix S: Peak-hour only routes or special services
* Suffix X: Buses using highways or express services
[edit] By ferry
A vast fleet of ferries plies between the many islands of Hong Kong. The granddaddy of them all and an attraction in itself is the Star Ferry, whose most popular line travels between Kowloon and Central nearly continuously, and offers amazing views (especially when coming from Kowloon). Upper deck seats cost $2.20 while lower deck $1.70, both payable with Octopus or cash (change given).
Ferries to Lamma, Lantau and other islands depart from a variety of ports, but the largest and most important terminal is at Central adjacent to the Star Ferry. Ferries are usually divided into fast ferries and slow ferries, with fast ferries charging around twice the price for half the journey time, although not all destinations offer both kinds of service. Example fares for trips from Central to Yung Shue Wan (Lamma) are $10/15 slow/fast, and to Mui Wo (Lantau) $10.50/$21. Note that all fares increase around 50% on Sundays and public holidays.
Taxicabs are plentiful, clean and efficient. They were just recently (2003) rated as the cheapest of all big cities in the world. Not good news for the drivers, but good for the tourist. Rounding up is the norm and passengers often leave a small tip. Fares start at HK $15, and you can ride for 2 km before additional $1.40 per 200m increments start ticking. A ride all the way across the island will cost no more than $80. No tipping is expected, but the fare may be rounded up to the nearest dollar.
Drivers are required to provide change for HK $100 notes, but not for higher denominations. If you only have a $500 or $1000 note and are going through a tunnel, let the driver know beforehand and he will change it when paying at the toll booth.
Life is made slightly more difficult by the fact that there are three different flavors of taxi. These can be distinguished by colour: red taxis typically serve the Island and Kowloon, and some parts of the New Territories (for example Shatin), but they are permitted to travel all over Hong Kong except to Lantau Island; green taxis serve the New Territories (only), but with a slightly cheaper fare than red taxis; blue taxis serve Lantau (only). (You are unlikely to ever encounter a blue Taxi, as there are only about 50 of them in existence.) All three types of taxis can take you to the airport. When in doubt, just take a red taxi.
In addition, red taxis are based in either the Island or Kowloon, if they do take you, they will charge you twice the bridge/tunnel toll so they can get back! But you can use this to your advantage by picking a homebound taxi from a cross-harbour taxi rank in places like the Star Ferry pier or Hung Hom station. In these cross-harbour taxi stands only single toll charge will be applied to the taxi fare.
There are no extra late-night charges. Baggage will cost you $5 a pop (but in practice almost never charged) and all tolls are payable. The wearing of seat belts is required by law.
All taxi's are radio equipped and can be reserved and requested via an operator for a token fee, payable to the driver. You are unlikely to need to call a taxi though as they are plentiful.
It is good practice to get a local person to write the name or address of your destination in Chinese for you to hand to the taxi driver, as most drivers do not speak sufficient English. For example, if you wish take a journey back to your hotel, ask a receptionist for a compliment slip (with its address on it) prior to going out.
Renting a car is almost unheard of in Hong Kong. With heavy traffic, extremely complex road network and rare parking spaces, renting a car is very unappealing. However, if you must, expect to pay over $600/day even for a small car. Please also note that unlike in mainland China, traffic in Hong Kong moves on the left.
[edit] By cable car
There is a cable car to Ocean Park on the southern side of Hong Kong Island, and Ngong Ping Skyrail on Lantau.
[edit] Talk
Cantonese is the language spoken by 95% of the people in Hong Kong. Though Hong Kong is a former British colony, the degree of English proficiency is limited among non-professionals in those districts where more locals visit than tourists. However, others including most taxi drivers, street vendors, salespeople etc. are fluent enough for sufficient communication, especially at tourist destinations such as hotels and certain restaurants. English is fluently spoken among the business community. The English language education is started from kindergarten, anyone who had completed high-school after 1970's can be expected to understand at least written English pretty well. Using text-book-esque phrases and simple sentences also helps.
Most locals are not fluent in Mandarin, but can comprehend it to a certain degree. Mandarin proficiency is increasing, especially after the reunification with the mainland.
All official signs are bilingual, in both Chinese (Traditional) and English. Most shops and restaurants also have English signage, though don't expect this from the more local or obscure establishments. Under the "one country, two systems" policy, Hong Kong continues to use traditional Chinese characters and not the simplified Chinese characters used in mainland China.
The Hong Kong dollar is the official currency. The official exchange rate is fixed at 7.80 HKD to 1 USD, although bank rates may fluctuate slightly. Issued by three banks (HSBC [a.k.a. Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation], Standard Chartered Bank and Bank of China) and with different versions in which the style varies a lot, these multi-coloured, and increasing in size, banknotes come in denominations of:
* $10, green or purple (The purple note is issued by the government)
* $20, dark blue or light blue (old or new)
* $50, purple or green (old or new)
* $100, red
* $500, brown
* $1000, gold
Some shops do not accept $1000 notes due to counterfeiting concerns.
The coins come in units of
* $10, in bronze/silver, circular
* $5, in silver, circular, thicker
* $2, in silver, wavey-circular
* $1, in silver, circular, thinner
* 50c, in bronze, circular, larger
* 20c, in bronze, wavey-circular
* 10c, in bronze, circular, smaller
varying in a descending size (except $10 coin)
One from other places may be surprised of the variety of different versions of banknotes issued by different note-issuing banks. You may want to have a quick look of it here (not including the new banknotes). Since September 1997, the use of the small coins and change has been reduced due to the innovation of the Octopus card. Originally used just for transit payments for subways and buses, it now is used all over the city, for purchases in any amount at convenience shops, fast food stores, pharmacies, vending machines, etc. It has changed the speed and ease of small transactions in Hong Kong, and does away with many of the small coin transactions.
[edit] Shop
Hong Kong is still known as an excellent destination for shopping. Prices are comparably cheaper than the US, Europe or Japan, especially with no sales tax on anything, though it's still expensive by Asian standards. The variety is a lot better than in most Asian countries. Popular shopping items include consumer electronics, custom clothing, shoes, jewellery, expensive brand name goods, Chinese antiques, toys and Chinese herbs/medicine.
As a generalisation, the Island has the fancy name-brand air-con shopping malls (particularly near Causeway Bay), while Kowloon is the place to go for cheap open markets. Kowloon also has Nathan Road with many shops selling electronics, cameras and gadgets, mainly to tourists. Some of the business practices there are quite deceptive and tourists are commonly overcharged. Compare prices before you buy. It would be safer to buy from large chain stores like Broadway or Fortress.
Hong Kong people themselves often shop for some things in Shenzhen just over the border into China.
* Shopping Centers
Hong Kong is full of shopping centers. Here are some of them:
1. Harbour City - Huge Shopping Center in Tsim Sha Tsui on Canton Road, to get there take the MTR to Tsim Sha Tsui, or take the Star Ferry
2. Pacific Place - also a big shopping centre. Take the MTR to Admiralty.
3. Festival Walk - A big shopping center with a mix of expensive brands and smaller chains. There is also an ice skating rink there. Take the MTR or KCR East Rail to Kowloon Tong.
4. Cityplaza - A similarly large shopping centre, also with an ice-skating rink. To get there, take the MTR to Taikoo on the Island Line.
5. Landmark - All the luxury brands have shops here Gucci, Dior, Fendi, Vuitton, etc. Central, Pedder Street
6. APM - All new 24Hr Shopping Center in Kwun Tong. Take the MTR to the Kwun Tong station.
7. IFC Mall - Located next to the Star Ferry and Outlying Islands Ferry Piers. Has many luxury brand shops, a cinema with very comfortable seating and superb views across the harbour from the rooftop.
8. Times Square - a Multi Story Shopping Mall with food courts at the lower levels, and Gourmet Dining at the upper stories. Take MTR to Causeway Bay, and exit at "Times Square".
9. Citygate Outlet - Located right next to Tung Chung MTR Station, the Citygate is a rare outlet mall with tonnes of mid-priced brands, some of them being Adidas, Esprit, Giordano, Levi's, Nike, Quiksilver and Timberland.
10. Golden Computer Arcade - located in Sham Shui Po, this shopping center is specialized in selling computer and TV gaming related products. Take the MTR to the Sham Shui Po station. Other computer malls with better environment would be Star City in Tsim Sha Tsui just right on top of the McDonald's as you get out of Star Ferry; Windsor House Computer City in Causeway Bay; Wan Chai Computer mall right outside Wan Chai MTR Station; and Mong Kok Computer Center on Nelson Street 2 minutes from Mong Kok MTR Station Exit E2.
* Streetmarkets
Hong Kong has a lot of street markets. Some of them just selling regular groceries, others clothes, bags or even electronics.
1. Ladies Market - Find fake brand label goods here, or illegal imports. Other goods include clothes, toys etc. Make sure to bargain here!
2. Flower Market - Prince Edward
3. Goldfish Market- a whole street full of shops selling small fish in plastic bags and accesoires Tung Choi Street, Mong Kok
4. Bird Market - MTR Station Prince Edward, exit "Mong Kok Police Station". Walk down Prince Edward Road West until you reach Yuen Po Street Bird Garden
5. Jade Market
6. Temple Street - Situated in the middle of the yellow district, this is a place that sells anything from the Little Red Book to adult toys. Hong Kong is a really safe city, but this is probably one of the only places you might want to be more careful with your handbags.
7. Seafood Street - Sai Kung
8. Apliu Street - MTR Station Shum Shui Po, this is the place where you can find cheap computer goods, peripherals and accessories. However this would be the worst place to buy your mobile phones, they tend to be even more dodgy than small stores in Mongkok.
9. Stanley Market - One of the more touristy places, this market sells everything from luxury luggages to cheap brand name clothes (usually overruns from the factories). Accessible with number 40 minibus from Causeway Bay. Also, No. 6 and 6A bus from Central.
* Tourist traps
Just as in any city, there are certain areas with tourist traps. They are often nameless stores that sell electronics such as digital cameras, cellphones, and computers. However, the selling price is often overpriced. These shops can easily be identified with usage of attention-grabbing neon signs of electronics brand names, numerous employees in a very small store space, and often several of these stores in a row. There are many of these stores on Nathan Road, Kowloon and in Causeway Bay as well. If you are shopping for inexpensive electronics, head for a Broadway or Fortress chain store, sometimes there may be discounts here (up to 5%) if you pay by cash.
The skyline of Hong Kong is one of the best in the world. See the stunning Hong Kong Island skyline from Kowloon.
[edit] Guided Walk
Hong Kong Tourism Board offers many free walking tours, including Nature Kaleidoscope Walk and Architecture Walk.
[edit] Victoria Peak
Get a stunning view of Hong Kong Island on the Victoria Peak with the giant, Wok shaped Peak Tower. Within the building are shops, restaurants, museums, and viewing points. The Peak Tram runs from Central to the bottom of the Peak Tower.
[edit] Horse Racing
The racing season runs from September to June, during which time meetings take place twice weekly, the location alternating between Shatin in the New Territories and Happy Valley near Wan Chai. Of these, Happy Valley is the more convenient and more impressive location, although live races only take place here on Wednesday night. For only $10 entrance fee, a night in Happy Valley can be filled with entertainment. Get a local Chinese gambler to explain the betting system to you and then drink the cheap draft beer! Be sure to pick up the Racing Post section in the South China Morning Post on Wednesday to guide you. A 'beer garden' with racing commentary in English available at Happy Valley near the finish line, and many expatriates congregate here during the races.
[edit] Local life
The most effective way to know how Hong Kong people live is to experience the local life of an ordinary Hong Kong resident.
Go visit a public housing estate and a private one in a row, you witness the difference of rich and poor; go visit a fresh food market and a larger supermarket called "superstore", you witness struggle between small retailers and corporations; go visit one of the small shopping malls in Mongkok, you witness teenagers spend their pocket money on overpriced sneakers and "BAPE" products.
Just wander and observe - and don't worry - most areas in town are quite secure.
It is rather sad that most tourists only hang around the several tourist districts. However, it is very worthwhile to go to some more Hong Kongish places like Ladies Street, Temple Street, Seafood Street, Apliu Street and so on, which a list of so may be retrieved through the website DiscoverHongKong.com, the official site of the Hong Kong Tourist Board.
[edit] Traditional heritage
There are many traditional heritage locations throughout the territory.
* Ping Shan Heritage Trail in Tin Shui Wai, New Territories
* Kowloon Walled City Park in Kowloon City, Kowloon
* Hong Kong Heritage Museum in Shatin, New Territories
* Tsang Tai Uk in the New Territories
* Che Kung Temple in the Sha Tin, New Territories
* Man Mo Temple and Fu Shin Street Traditional Bazaar in the New Territories
* Temple of Ten Thousand Buddha's Located 5 minute walk from Shatin KCR station. This is one of the best temples to visit in Hong Kong. There are over 12,000 buddha and you can usually see monkeys. There is also a pagoda that you can climb. If you are hungry before you climb the large number of stairs there is also a very delicious hot pot resturant on the way. Although, at the top of the hill there are also amazing vegetarian spring rolls.
Hong Kong/Lantau.
* Stilt houses in Tai O (aka Hong Kong Venice) -- to have a taste of traditional fishing village.
* Po Lin Monastery and the Tien Tan Buddha Statue on Ngong Ping,
[edit] Museums
There are a variety of museums in Hong Kong with different themes, but to be honest, the people on the streets seem to offer more insights than the exhibits in most of these government-run museums. One exception is the Hong Kong Museum of History.
[edit] Nature
Hong Kong is not all skyscrapers, and it's worthwhile to go to the countryside (over 70% of Hong Kong), including the country parks and marine parks.
* Lantau Island is twice as big as Hong Kong and is well worth checking out if you want to get away from the bright lights and pollution of the city for a spell. Here you will find open countryside, traditional fishing villages, secluded beaches, monasteries and more. You can hike, camp, fish and mountain bike, amongst other activities.
* Sai Kung, a peninsula, is also a worthwhile place to visit, for its hilly geographic features and different kind of landforms. If you like challenging routes, try going to the Sharp Peak (Nam She Tsim in Cantonese). Sharp peak is famous for its steep slope with a height more than 400m. The view from the top is fantastic. For a more relax route, try to walk along Section 2 of Maclehose Trail.
* Hong Kong Wetland Park is a relaxing park set amidst an ecological mitigation area. One can stroll along a network of boardwalks built over the marshy area and watch birds from a tower. The park also features a large visitors center/museum. The museum has many interactive exhibits ideal for children, as well as some live animal habitats. To visit, take KCR West Rail to Tin Shui Wai Station, then the #705 light rail to Wetland Park. The park is stroller and wheelchair friendly.
* Short hiking trails (2 hours) can be found on Hong Kong Island and the New Territories.
The entrance to Hong Kong Disneyland Resort.
[edit] Theme parks
* Hong Kong Disneyland opened on September 12, 2005. It is on Lantau Island. Though smaller in size than other Disney parks elsewhere, it does offer some great attractions ("Festival of the Lion King" stage show, "Golden Mickey's" stage show, "Mickey's PhilhaMagic 3D" show) and very short queues most of the year (except the week of Chinese New Year).
* Ocean Park is on the southern side of Hong Kong island. With roller coasters and large aquarium altogether, it's still packed on weekends with families and tourists after opening to public for 30 years.
The cablecar is an icon and an essential link between the two parts of the park. The views of the South China Sea from the car is always terrific.
[edit] Seeing different sides of Hong Kong by Public Transport
Travelling on a bus or a tram is ideal for looking at different sides of Hong Kong. Not only it is cheap to ride on a bus or a tram, it also allows you to see completely different lifestyles in different districts in a short time. Below are some recommended routes.
[edit] Bus
* KMB Route 70 starts from the downtown in Jordan, Kowloon. It goes along Peninsular Kowloon and heads through the New Territories. Then it goes into Sha Tin new town. Afterwards it goes through Tai Po Road, where you can see many traditional Chinese villages and the sceneric Chinese University of Hong Kong. The bus further goes to Tai Po and you can see the traditional Market. After Tai Po, the bus again passes through the countryside and eventually reaches its terminus at Sheung Shui (below Landmark North), which is near the Hong Kong - Shenzhen boundary. The journey takes 105 minutes and costs $8.20 for the whole journey with a traditional non air-conditioned bus.
A tram on Hong Kong Island
* NWFB Route 15 starts from Central (Exchange Square) to The Peak. It is an alternative way for getting to The Peak by bus rather than by Peak Tram. Your journey to Hong Kong will not be complete unless you have visited the Victoria Peak. You can see the beautiful view of Hong Kong Island, Victoria Habour and Kowloon Peninsula along the Stubbs road during the journey. When you arrive, there are two shopping malls: The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, which provide restaurants, a supermarket, and souvenir shops for your convenience. In addition, Madame Tussauds Hong Kongis temporarily closed for renovation, and it may be re-opened in May 2006. Direction: you can take MTR and get off at Hong Kong station. You can approach Hong Kong station by the underpass from Central station. After that, follow the exit B1 to Exchange Square and you will see the bus terminus. You can also get off at Admiralty station. Then, follow the C1 exit toward Queensway Plaza. The bus stop is located at the motorway beside Admiralty Garden. After you get in the bus, just stay on until it arrives to The Peak bus terminus. The bus fare is $9.2 and it takes about 30 minutes for the journey.
[edit] Tram
* Take a tram journey on Hong Kong Island.
The tram system refers to Hongkong Tramways, a slow yet special transportation running on Hong Kong Island. It, operating since 1904, is a relic of the British administration. A trip on a tram is a perfect way to have a leisurely tour around Hong Kong Island's major streets and to have a glimpse to the locals life. Fares are relatively cheap, 2 HK dollars per trip for adult and 1 HK dollar for Senior citizens (age 65 or older)and children
It is recommended to ride from as far as Kennedy Town in the west, to as far as Shau Kei Wan in the east, in order to get a strong contrast of "East meets West" and "Old meets New".
[edit] Avenue of the Stars and A Symphony of Lights
Hong Kong's version of Hollywood Walk of Fame, the Avenue of the Stars [4] celebrates the icons of Hong Kong cinemas past century. The seaside promenade is also offers fantastic views day and night of the Hong Kong harbour and skyline. The Avenue can be reached from the Tsim Sha Tsui MTR station or the Star Ferry.
The Avenue of the Stars is also a great place to see A Symphony of Lights, a spectacular light and laser show syncronized to music and staged every night at 8:00pm. This is the world's "Largest Permanent Light and Sound Show" as recognized by the Guinness World Records. On Monday, Wednesday and Friday, the light show is in English. On the other nights, it is in Cantonese.
[edit] Hiking
Hiking is the best kept secret in Hong Kong, a great way to appreciate Hong Kong's beautiful sceneries range from mountains to beaches to breathtaking cityscape. Starting points of most hiking trails are accessible by bus or taxi. Highly recommended.
There are four major trails in Hong Kong:
* Lantau Trail on Lantau.
* Hong Kong Trail on Hong Kong Island.
* Maclehose Trail through the New Territories. Oxfam organizes an annual charity hike of this 100Km trail every November. Winning teams finish in around 11-12 hours but average people take 30-36 hours to finish the whole trail, which starts from the eastern end of the New Territories (Sai Kung) to the western end (Tuen Mun).
* Wilson Trail starting on Hong Kong Island and finishing on the New Territories.
This guide uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink:
Budget Under $50
Splurge Over $400
Perhaps the number one highlight of Hong Kong is the cuisine. Not only is it a showcase of traditional and modern Cantonese cuisine, the various regional cuisines from around China, such as Teochew and Sichuan are all well represented. There are also excellent Asian and Western restaurants as well.
Residents tend to eat out a lot more than in other countries. Perhaps because of this eating out can be fairly cheap, as long as you stick to local restaurants, and avoid the often overpriced western counterparts.
Above all, Hong Kong is known for its dim sum (點心), delicately prepared morsels of Cantonese cuisine served from a neverending procession of carts and eaten with tea. Dim sum is usually eaten for breakfast or lunch and is often the focus of family get-togethers on Sundays.
A uniquely Hong Kong-style eatery starting to make waves elsewhere in Asia is the cha chaan teng (茶餐廳), literally "tea cafe", but offering fusion fast food that happily mixes Western and Eastern fare: innovations include noodles with Spam, stir-fried spaghetti and baked rice with cheese. Usually a wide selection of drinks is also available, almost always including the popular tea-and-coffee mix yuanyang (鴛鴦), and perhaps more oddities (to the Western palate) like boiled Coke with ginger or iced coffee with lemon. Orders are usually recorded on a chit at your table and you pay at the cashier as you leave.
The "Seafood street" in the district of Sai Kung, New Territories, Hong Kong. Numerous restaurants specialized in seafood serve locals and tourists alike.
For those who wish to eat Hong Kong's famous seafood, there are different locations in Hong Kong's coastal areas where freshly caught seafood is cooked and served. Places like Sai Kung, Po Doi O, Lei Yu Mun, Lau Fau Shan are good places to find restaurants specialized in seafood. These restaurants have different tanks to keep the seafood alive and will present live seafood specimens to their patrons for them to choose before cooking.
As with Chinese cuisine elsewhere, food in Hong Kong is generally eaten with chopsticks. The usual etiquette when using chopsticks apply, such as not sticking your chopsticks vertically into a bowl of rice. Dishes in smaller eateries might not come with a serving spoon though they would usually provide one if you request.
Cooked food centres (Dai Pai Dong 大牌檔) provide economic solutions to diners, and they are popular with local citizens. There are many cooked food centres in various districts. The cooked food centre in Sha Kok Estate, Sha Tin is easily accessible by KCR. It is adjacent to Sha Tin Wai Railway Station. It is highly recommended to tourists, as this is where you will find true Hong Kong cuisine and experience a local's way of life.
Wet markets are still prevalent. Freshness is a key ingredient to all Chinese food, so frozen meat and vegetables are frowned upon, and most markets display freshly butchered beef and pork (with entrails), live fish in markets, and more exotic shellfish, frogs, turtles and snails. Maids who cook for their employers usually go to the market everyday to buy fresh ingredients, just like the restaurants.
Regular supermarkets:
* Wellcome
* Park N Shop
* CRC Shop
Western gourmet supermarkets:
* CitySuper
* Great
24 hour convenience stores 7-Eleven and Circle K can be found anywhere.
Hong Kong also has a staggering range of international restaurants serving cuisines from all over the world. These can often be found in, though not restricted to, entertainment districts such as Lan Kwai Fong, Soho or Knutsford Terrace.
[edit] Barbecue
Barbecue (normally spelt BBQ) is a popular local pastime. Many areas feature free public barbecue pits. Locals enjoy a style where everybody roasts their own food, usually with barbeque forks. It's not just sausages and burgers - the locals enjoy trying a variety of food at BBQ, such as fish, beef meatballs, pork meatballs, chicken wings, and so on. A good spot is the southern part of HK Island. Every beach is equipped with many free BBQ spots. Just stop by a store, buy meat, drinks and BBQ equipment. The best spots are Shek’O (under the trees at the left hand side of the beach) and Big Wave Bay.
Lan Kwai Fong at night
Drinking has not been something the locals were big on in the past but it is becoming much more popular with the younger generation. Thanks to the large numbers of western expats there are plenty of places for them to go and drink, especially on the Island side. The traditional hotspot for both eating and drinking with westerners is Lan Kwai Fong in Central. Wan Chai is also fun, if slightly sleazier with numerous girly bars along Lockhart Road, while Causeway Bay and Eastern Soho out beyond Quarry Bay offer a less touristy experience.
Popular lagers include Tsing Tao (pronounced 'ching doe') or San Miguel.
Imported San Miguel is better than the locally produced variety. More expensive bars will likely serve this, but at others you may have to specifically ask for "Philippine San Miguel" (and pay more). At the lower end only locally stuff will be available. Imported bottles can be easily distinguished as they have brown glass with white frosted lettering. Locally filled bottles use a label.
One of the best ways to drink in Hong Kong is to have a walk around all the bars first and have a look which ones are doing special offers and what time they run Happy Hour. Most bars have a Happy Hours, which makes for a more cost effective way to drink. Also keep in mind the races on a Wednesday night at Happy Valley race course, you only pay $10 for entry and pay around $100 for a jug of beer. Also Wednesday nights is ladies night, during which many bars in Wan Chai give free drinks to the ladies.
The legal drinking age is 18. Public drunkenness is not so rare as one would think amongst locals and very accepted amongst foreigners.
* Ned Kelly's Last Stand A really good bar to go for pre-partying. Located on Ashley road parallel to the famous Nathan road on Kowloon side, it's an Australian themed jazz bar with great food and good live music almost every night starting at 21-22, which is about when the happy hour ends. The place is laid out with long tables where total strangers can sit together, it's quite big with the frequent visitors of Hong Kong such as traveling businessmen and the art-community.
* Sticky Fingers The awesomest place around? Who knows, but its a nice place to get some women and listen to a great house-band play live rock music on stage. The drinks are pretty good too.
* Knutsford Terrace is a popular drinking and dining spot in Kowloon but there are many other places in and around Tsim Sha Tsui. Some of them can get pretty expensive though - up to USD10 for a drink in some places!
* Joe Bananas A wonderful place located on Lockhart road, where the drinks are friendly and the women are cheap (or was it the other way around?).
A word of caution for non-southeast Asian women: Western bars and restaurants on Lockhart Road, Wan Chai are where prostitutes from Southeast Asia (Thailand, Philippines, Indonesia) work, sometimes as "waitresses" till the bar/restaurant closes. Other women often aren't as warmly welcomed as Western men.
A word of caution for Western men: Almost all Thai, Filipino and Indonesian women in Western bars and restaurants on Lockhart Road Wan Chai eg Pussy Cat, Mes Amis are prostitutes. They sometimes have a second job as 'waitresses'. Scams involving drugged drinks, inflated bills, and once more personal info is exchanged, blackmailing the men, a sick mother back home in the Philippines needing an urgent, expensive, life-saving surgery, etc. are very common. Don't fall in love with them, only to be ruined economically and personally by them.
To really go to town, spend a few hundred $ drinking in the Felix bar at the top of the Peninsula Hotel, Kowloon-side. Possibly the best view in the world, especially from the gents'!
Accommodation in Hong Kong tends to be on the small side. Accommodation ranging from cheap backpacker hostels to the ritziest luxury hotels can be found in the city. As a rule of thumb, expensive luxury accommodation are on Hong Kong Island while cheaper digs can be found in Kowloon and the New Territories . However, five-star hotels in Hong Kong are generally cheaper than in other major cities such as New York City, Sydney, Paris or London.
Besides luxury five star hotels, there are also a variety of more affordable hotels, guest houses, backpacker hostels, and holiday camps. The government maintains an online list of licensed hotels and guesthouse. The online directory can be found here. Price can be checked up for reference from one of the local travel agencies.
A few Youth Hostels [5] are available in Hong Kong for booking, but most of them are located outside the city. The YMCA 'The Salisbury' is not a real YMCA, but rather a 3-4 Star hotel with nice rooms, private bathrooms and so on. Its location right at the southern end of Kowloon (and next door to the Peninsula) makes this an ideal place to stay for budget-minded travellers. For the truly budget-minded, there are numerous cheap hostels that can be found inside Chungking Mansions and Mirador Mansions buildings, near the intersection of Nathan Road and Mody Road in Kowloon. Chungking Mansions have the bad "reputation" of sleeping places for many illegal foreign workers and non-documented immigrants. Unless you cannot find another place to stay, stay in another budget hotels or hostels along Nathan Road.
Also note that consumer protection is practically non-existant when dealing with the cheap hostels located at Nathan Road, if you must stay there never pay more than one night beforehand and if possible, use a credit card. Always demand to check the room beforehand, otherwise you can be charged for equipment that somebody else broke. If you are cheated, contact the tourist information center near the Star Ferry pier at Kowloon side.
The major tertiary/post-secondary institutions in Hong Kong are:
* University of Hong Kong, [6].
* Chinese University of Hong Kong, [7].
* City University of Hong Kong, [8].
* Hong Kong Polytechnic University, [9].
* Hong Kong Baptist University, [10].
* Hong Kong Institute of Education, [11].
* Hong Kong University of Science and Technology, [12].
* Lingnan University, [13].
* Open University of Hong Kong, [14].
There is a large movement for the Cantonese speaking folks to learn Mandarin as more visitors arrive from mainland China.
You need an employment visa in Hong Kong to take up paid employment. This usually involves any potential employer making an application to the Immigration Department on your behalf, crucially you should have skills that are probably not available from the local job market. In June 2006 the Immigration Department revived a rule that allows the spouse of anyone currently working legally in Hong Kong to get a "dependent visa". This allows the spouse to take up any employment they wish, without having to seek approval from the Immigration Department.
[edit] Crime
As large international cities go, Hong Kong is one of the safest, in terms of crime and personal safety. However it does have its share of petty crime, but it can be avoided with some street smarts.
Do not do business with people pushing their cards to you on the streets (so called street hawkers, mainly legal and illegal immigrants near Nathan Road, Kowloon). They advertise tailor services and consumer electronics and the prices are 20-100% higher than in reliable chain stores and department stores. Usually you are asked to pay half beforehand, and when you come to claim your product, they say it's sold out and offer another model for much higher price. It can be very hard to get your money back from them as they might even hold your credit card as a 'hostage' and refuse to give it back unless you agree to take the more expensive item. Don't buy electronic items from brands you'd never heard of because they might be overpriced low quality chinese products without any warranty anywhere else. Best advice is to avoid street hawkers completely (don't even reply to them or you will attract only more!), and if already in trouble, contact the nearest police officer immediately.
Watch your purse and wallet at all times. When in restaurants, do not sling your pack or purse behind your chair. Clutch any bags or purses in front of you when on the buses and railways.
In Hong Kong, the emergency number for Police, Fire and Ambulance is 999. Be aware that Police Officers may may ask to see anyone's ID in public areas. This usually happens during checks for illegal immigrants, but visitors, especially those who are not caucasian, are sometimes checked. If you experience this, you should cooperate with the police. If feel you have been subject to police misconduct, call the ICAC [15] at 2526 3366 for assistance.
Hong Kong has some great hikes, but be safe and always hike in a group, particularly in Lantau Island and the New Territories. Although you are never more than a few miles from urban areas, natural obstacles such as steep ravines and washouts, combined with incomplete cell phone service in forested areas cause a few people to become lost each year, occasionally resulting in tragic death or injury.
[edit] Weather
Typhoons normally occur during the months of May to November, and are particularly prevalent during September. Whenever a typhoon approaches within 800km of Hong Kong, typhoon warning signal 1 is issued. Signal 3 is issued as the storm approaches. When the storm is expected to hit, signal 8 is issued. At this point, most of business activities shuts down, including shops, restaurants and the transport system. However, some entertainment facilities such as cinemas may still open for business. Signal 9 and 10 may be issued depending on the intensity of the storm.
Taxis may still available when signal 8 or above is issued, but then they are under no obligation to service passengers as insurance cover is no longer effective under such circumstances. It is quite possible to negotiate a fare with the driver, typically up to twice the meter fare.
Rainstorms also have their own warning system. In increasing order of severity, the levels are amber, red and black.
Hong Kong Observatory
[edit] Road
Signage on the roads in Hong Kong is typically different from most other cities. Zebra lines indicate crossing areas for pedestrians and traffic comes from the right. To stay safe, visit the Transport Department's Road Users' Code for complete details.
Crossing roads by foot should also be exercised with great care. Local traffic in Hong Kong generally moves fast once the signal turns green. To help both the visually impaired and even people who are not, an audible aid is played at every intersection. Rapid bells indicate "Walk"; Intermittent bells (10 sets of 3 bells) indicate "Do Not Start to Cross"; and Slow bells indicate "Do Not Walk".
[edit] Stay healthy
One unexpected cause of sickness in Hong Kong is the extreme temperature change between 35°C (95°F) humid summer weather outdoors and 18°C (65°F) air-conditioned buildings and shopping malls. Some people experience cold symptoms after moving between the two extremes so often; it is not unusual to wear a sweater or covering to stay warm indoors (though the Hong Kong Government currently encourages the temperature in air-conditioned buildings be kept at 25.5 °C for energy saving, etc.)
Whilst tap water is technically safe to drink (taste aside), the government highly recommends boiling it before consumption as contamination may occur in the piping system. Most locals boil or filter their water, or buy inexpensive bottled water.
Because of recent concerns about SARS and the threat of Avian Flu, there are hygiene stations around town featuring antiseptic hand gel and alcohol sprays. You're wise to use them in crowded areas such as shopping malls, lifts and public areas, just to be safe. Basically, it's a safe place to visit.
[edit] Pollution
[edit] Respect
Westerners say Hong Kong can be a pretty rude city with the large crowds, pushing, shoving, and crowdedness — similar to New York City or London. However, it can be best described as hurried and efficient (terse, perhaps), but not mean spirited. Even on a night out, the atmosphere is rarely menacing and most people in shops and restaurants are helpful and friendly. Most folks know a modicum of English, since it was a British colony, so you don't have to worry about offending anyone by speaking English. Some Hong Kong people use the term gwai lo (commonly translated as "foreign ghost" in English; it literally means "ghost guy") to refer to Caucasian foreigners. However, locally, this term is simply used as a term to refer to Caucasians and usually no longer carries the derogatory meaning it once intended.
[edit] Manners and Etiquette
Manners are very important to local people, however, their ideas of manners can be different to Western ideas, this is especially obvious when it comes to table manners. More than half of the people you see on streets are visitors, and it is difficult to tell the difference amongst Mainland Chinese, Hong Kong Chinese, Taiwanese Chinese, Northern Asians and Southern Asians. All these may carry no meaning at all to non-locals, but they do, and it is especially apparent in terms of manners. The culture itself and the level of public education is very different across the region (viz Americans and Mexicans, Germans and Italians, they are not the same and they don't act the same). English is a second language to the locals, and they are usually a lot more reserved (i.e. especially polite) when using it.
[edit] Courtesy
Due to increased tourism and competition from both Mainland China and other places, courtesy in Hong Kong has increased dramatically. Now, when you approach a department or chain clothing stores, staff greet you when you enter the store and thank you when you leave the store, even if you haven't bought anything. Just a quick glance at a particular item will instantly provoke an employee to ask if you need assistance. Usually, they will stay at your side getting the right sizes, etc until you are ready to make the purchase. Most visitors will be impressed by this service.
Hong Kong has communications facilities as modern as any in the world.
[edit] Post
Postal services are efficient and of high quality. You will find post offices in major city areas and outside of opening hours, coin- and Octopus card-operated stamps vending machines. You can buy stamps (sets of ten stamps of $1.4, $2.4, $3) from many convenience stores such as 7-Eleven or Circle K (OK).
[edit] Internet Access
Cyber cafes are widespread in the city, but they are generally geared towards gamers. For simple Internet access, you may want to go to terminals in cafes like Pacific Coffee which can be used for free by customers. Free terminals can also be found in some public areas, such as shopping malls, departures hall in the airport, MTR Wanchai station and Central Station, and the public libraries. The central public library in Causeway Bay, opposite Victoria Park, has hundreds of free terminals and free broadband access if you bring a notebook PC.
[edit] Telephone
The prefix for international calls 001. Hong Kong's country-code is 852 (different from China and Macau). Local phone numbers (mobile and landlines) are typically 8 digits; no area codes are used. For the operator, dial 1000. For police, fire service or ambulance dial 999.
Mobile phone subscriber penetration is very high (115% in 2004). If you have a GSM handset (GSM 900, 1800) or WCDMA (UMTS) handset , purchase a prepaid SIM card to use in your phone. They can be bought for cash at most convenience stores. 2G (cheaper) and newer 3G cards are available, but both are relatively cheap. If your CDMA handset has a SIM slot, you can pick up the less popular CDMA SIM cards, note that the CDMA network coverage is not as great as that of GSM and WCDMA (UMTS). A card with value of around $50 should be sufficient unless you are making international calls. Most cards provide standard services such as SMS and voice mail. For the adventurous types, discounted prepaid SIM Cards can be purchased in Ap Liu Street in Sham Shui Po, and "Sin Daat" arcade in Mongkok (Argyle St - close to Lady street). Cheap GSM and 3G phones can be purchased here as well. Mobile phone numbers also have eight digits and begin with 6 or 9. Be aware that you pay to both make and receive calls and this includes the unfortunate situation of having to pay to listen to increasingly common spam (advertising) calls. Coverage is generally excellent and is available on almost all operators even when underground, including the whole MTR system, on board the trains and cross-harbor tunnels.
Payphones are available and $1 is for a local call for 5 minutes usually. If you don't have a mobile and need to make a short local call, most restaurants, supermarkets and shops will oblige if you ask nicely. Public payphones are becoming more and more difficult to find on streets nowadays, the take is to go into any MTR/train stations, they always have payphones there. The airport have a courtesy phone just before you step out of the glassed area after the customs - you cannot go back there once you left.
* Macau, the former Portuguese colony and present gambling haven is just an hour away by TurboJet ferry. Ticket prices start at $141 for the one-hour ride to Macau. The ferry building is near the Sheung Wan MTR station on Hong Kong Island. Less frequent ferries are also available from New World First Ferry in Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon.
* Zhuhai, across the border from Macau, is 70 minutes away by ferry.
* Shenzhen, mainland China boomtown just across the border can be reached by KCR East Rail in about 40 minutes. The train is convenient if you are keen on shopping as it terminates in the Lo Wu commercial center. Another alternative, especially if you are starting from the island is the ferry to Shekou which takes around 50 minutes and costs around $100.
* Guangzhou, capital of Guangdong Province can be reached by train within 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the type of train. If you are on a budget, many cross border buses are available throughout Hong Kong. The trip will take more than 3 hours, including going through customs at the border and changing buses. Here is a link where you can check bus schedule and fares. http://www.ctshk.com/english/bus/zhonglv.htm
[edit] Itineraries
* The Wikitravel itinerary A week near Hong Kong has suggestions for travel from Hong Kong to nearby destinations.
* Another itinerary Overland Kunming to Hong Kong covers one route to or from Hong Kong.
written by  garisti on May 1, 2008 from Hong Kong (historical), Hong Kong

Guangzhou, China
Guangzhou (广州 Guǎngzhōu or just simply GZ) is the capital of Guangdong Province in Southern China and has a population of over 10 million (The official registered population is 7.3 million, with over 3 million unregistered residents). It is adjacent to Hong Kong and Macau. In the era of tea clippers, Guangzhou was known in the West as "Canton". The food and the language of the area are still known as "Cantonese", and the airport code is CAN.
While Guangzhou is not usually high on the list of Asian tourist destinations, it is amazing how much the city actually has to offer.
Locals on the run outside the Grandview Plaza in Tianhe District. In the background is the 80-story CITIC Plaza.
Nightlife at Shangxiajiu in Liwan District.
[edit] Districts
Guangzhou Maps
Layout of Guangzhou
Western central Guangzhou in detail (Liwan)
Eastern central Guangzhou in detail (Yuexiu and Tianhe)
The official list consists of the following 10 districts:
* Liwan (荔湾 Lìwān) - This is the old Guangzhou, and is combined with the old Fangcun (芳村 Fāngcūn) area in the southwest. Tourist highlights include the colonial Shamian Island, Xiguan Old Houses, and Shangxiajiu Shopping districts.
* Yuexiu (越秀 Yuèxiù) - This is the political and cultural center, including the old Dongshan (东山, Dōngshān) area. Highlights include Yuexiu Park, Beijing Lu Shopping District, and Huanghuagang Martyrs Memorial Park.
* Haizhu (海珠 Hǎizhū) - Located south of the Pearl River, the district is becoming more business focus, especially in the areas of Real Estate and trading. Locals refer to this part of Guangzhou as Henan, meaning south of the river. Highlights include the Canton Fair Pazhou Exhibition Center, Sun Yat-Sen University, and Pearl River Harbor Walk along the river.
* Tianhe (天河 Tiānhé) - This is the new city center. It is an area with many new developments, including skyscrapers like the Citic Plaza. Highlights include Dongzhan Square and many shopping centers.
* Baiyun (白云 Báiyún) - The district has a big rural touch, but is slowly taken over by new developments, including the new airport. Highlights include the Baiyun Mountain.
* Huangpu (黄埔 Huángpǔ) - Not well known for foreign tourists, the district is the secondary center of eastern part of the city. Highlights include the former Huangpu Military Academy.
* Panyu (番禺 Pānyú) - This is the new area focusing on technology and economic development. Highlights include the Lianhua Mountain, two wild animal theme parks and the new University City.
* Huadu (花都 Huādū) - This is a developing industrial area. Highlights include the Huadu Square.
* Nansha (南沙 Nánshā) - This is an industrial area at the southern tip of the city. It offers little to tourists.
* Luogang (萝岗 Luógǎng) - This is the designated center of the eastern part of the city, famous for its plum forest. It is not a popular tourist destination, but it has some historical sites.
In addition to the 10 districts, two nearby cities have been drafted into Guangzhou's jurisdiction:
* Zengcheng (增城 Zēngchéng) - This city is famous for its lychee fruit, which are picked in the months of June and July.
* Conghua (从化 Cónghuà) - This city is known for its hot springs and Tian (Heavenly) Lake Recreation area.
The main tourist areas and metropolitan areas are in the northern part of the city, including Liwan, Yuexiu and Tianhe. (see Maps)
Location of Guangzhou in China
At first sight, Guangzhou appears less a city that's developing than one that's about to explode. Every corner seems packed with high-rise buildings, overpasses, and people running a marathon. It can be overwhelming, and the initial instinct of many travelers is to get out as soon as possible. However, those that overcome this urge and stay longer will discover a gentler and more personable side to the city.
As a major entry point for overseas culture for many centuries, foreigners are not the anomaly here that they are in other Chinese cities. Consequently, travelers are afforded more personal space and freedom. In addition, tucked away in the back streets, the old Guangzhou of traditional neighborhoods still moves at an age-old pace, with families and friends often sitting outdoors enjoying tea and banter.
Guangzhou also boasts the largest urban park in China, an island of refurbished colonial buildings and some world class galleries and exhibition spaces. In addition, possibly due to the distance from the country's political centers, the citizens of Guangzhou have developed a laid-back and play-hard approach to life.
Today, Guangzhou is recognized as one of China's most prosperous, liberal, and cosmopolitan cities. However, despite being an international trading hub, there is a lack of English signs, and outside the business districts and tourist spots, very few locals converse well in English.
[edit] History
Formerly known as Canton in the West, the city of Guangzhou has a history dating back around 2,500 years.
Although the actual origins of the city are lost in the mists of time, the most popular legend tells of five celestial beings riding into the area that is now Guangzhou on five rams and carrying sheaves of rice. The celestials bestowed blessings on the land and offered the sheaves to the people of the city as a symbol of prosperity and abundance. After the celestials left, the rams turned into stone, and Guangzhou quickly developed into an affluent and influential city. Due to this legend, Guangzhou has gained several popular nicknames: Yangcheng (City of Rams), Suicheng (Sheaves of Rice City) and Wuyangcheng (City of Five Rams). In addition, due to the abundance of flowers along the city's main thoroughfares, Guangzhou is often referred to as Huacheng (City of Flowers).
According to historical records, the city was built in 214BC and was known as Panyu (番禺). The name Guangzhou actually referred to the prefecture in which Panyu was located. However, as the city grew, the name Guangzhou was adopted for the city itself.
As a major sea port, Guangzhou's history is full of color. In 786 the city was sacked by the Persians, while in 1711 the British East India Company established a trading post there. In 1842 the Treaty of Nanjing was signed, which designated the city as one of the five ports that allowed business transactions with foreign nations.
Guangzhou was also part of the so called "Maritime Silk Road" that linked southern China with India, South-East Asia, the Middle East, and Africa. As a result of the links with the Middle East, a mosque was established in the city in 627, and a small Muslim community continues to this day. Furthermore, because the sixth patriarch of Zen Buddhism was born in Guangzhou, taught the famous Platform Sutra there, and established a monastery to the north of the city, Guangzhou has maintained a strong connection with this school of Buddhism.
[edit] When to visit
Climate wise, the best time to visit Guangzhou is in October and November. Alternatively, April and May are also good months. Guangzhou has a sub-tropical climate with humidity levels at their highest in the summer, so unless you enjoy Turkish steam baths, this is a season to avoid! Typhoon season is from June to September. Please note that the Canton Fairs take place annually in October and April, so finding accommodation at these times can be difficult (See the warning section under Sleep).
The New Guangzhou Baiyun International Airport (广州白云国际机场, IATA: CAN, ICAO: ZGGG, [1]) is a major hub in Southern China, second only to Hong Kong. The airport is the base of China Southern Airlines [2] and has not only an extensive range of domestic flights, but some international connections, including Air France to Paris, China Southern / Delta to Los Angeles, Thai Airways to Bangkok, Singapore Airlines to Singapore and Finnair to Helsinki. Other direct international destinations include Amsterdam, Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta, Frankfurt and Osaka.
The airport is 28 km north from downtown Guangzhou, and should not be confused with the former Baiyun Airport which was closed in 2004. A metro line to the airport is under construction but won't be ready until around 2009. In the meantime, taxi is the fastest option. See the airport fare table [3] for approximate fare cost. A taxi ride to downtown should cost no more than ¥120, inclusive of a ¥15 toll fee. As of the end of 2005, there is a ¥1 fuel surcharge that is not shown on the fare meter.
Alternatively, 9 Airport Express bus lines are available to take you to major destinations in Guangzhou. Line 1 (¥16) departs every 15 minutes from 7 AM until the last flight and takes 45 minutes to reach the train station and Central Hotel. The ticket prices range from ¥10 to ¥36. Lines 1 to 6 are traveling within the metropolitan area, while lines 7-9 go to outer districts. There are also direct Airport Express buses to some cities in the vicinity, including Zhuhai (¥90). Routes to Dongguan and Zhongshan will be in operation soon.
Do not accept solicitations for rides to the city. Those are illegally operated and use unmarked vehicles. They may cost more than taxis since many travelers do not know the cost of airport transportations.
Guangzhou-Kowloon (Hong Kong) through train timetable Train no. Hung Hom
(departure) GZ East
(arrival)
Valid from 11 Mar to 17 Apr 2007
denotes a stop-over in Dongguan (Changping)
Trains cover the 182 kilometers from Hong Kong in one and a half hours or less. Guangzhou-Kowloon Through Train from Hong Kong (Hung Hom station) to Guangzhou East station is operated by KCR [4].
A project is underway to link the entire Pearl River Delta area with high speed (200+ km/hr) train network. The Zhuhai-Guangzhou section is due to open in 2008, and the journey will take just 56 minutes. Shenzhen and other major cities will be connected at a later date.
A new express line connecting Guangzhou with Lhasa, Tibet is now open. The 4,980 km journey will take 58 hours. (¥869 and up)
Bear in mind there are two major train stations in Guangzhou. The Guangzhou East Station (火车东站) services routes to Hong Kong, and other popular tourist destinations. The Guangzhou Station (广州火车站) is one of the biggest in the country and services routes that go all the way to Harbin. Countless travelers have gone to the wrong station and missed their scheduled trips. So be sure to know which train station to go to, which is specified on the tickets. Metro line 1 ends at Guangzhou East Station, and line 2 has a stop at the main station.
Coach services are available to bring passengers from Hong Kong International Airport to several locations in Guangzhou. Among the destinations are recognizable landmarks like Jinan University (暨南大学) on Huang Pu Da Dao (黄埔大道), Garden Hotel (花园酒店) and China Hotel (中国大酒店) (see hotel section). The trip takes about 3+ hours and costs 250 HKD. There are also cross border bus terminals throughout Hong Kong. One of the Stations is at Austin Road and Canton Road near Kowloon Park. A one way ticket costs about 100 HKD.
Domestically, it is possible to hop on a bus from any corner of Guangdong province and get to Guangzhou. There are also many options from nearby provinces like Guangxi, Hubei and Fujian. The main stations are the Provincial Station (省汽车站), Tianhe Dasha Station (天河大厦站), Liuhua Station (流花站) and Yuexiu Nan Station (越秀南站).
[edit] By boat
There is a frequent ferry and hovercraft service from Hong Kong, Macau, and Haikou (Hainan Island) at the Zhoutouzui Ferry Pier (洲头咀码头). There are boats from other mainland cities, such as Xiamen, Shanghai, and Qingdao at the Dashatou Pier (大沙头码头). New Nansha Pier (新南沙客运港) is now open with 6 lines daily traveling between Hong Kong and Guangzhou. The trip takes 75 minutes (¥116-230). However, Nansha is very far from the city center, although there is a bus route available from White Swan Hotel, running three times a day.
Yang Cheng Tong card
Guangzhou has a fairly efficient and rapidly expanding public transportation system.
If you intend to stay in Guangzhou for an extensive period of time, it is highly advisable to purchase a multi-purpose Yang Cheng Tong (羊城通) stored value card, similar to the Octopus Card in Hong Kong. It can be used not only for public transportation (bus, subway, parking meters and some taxis), but also for public phones and designated shops, places of interests and certain vending machines. The card includes a ¥30 refundable deposit. While you can purchase the cards in many places, returning your card at the end of the trip is a hassle, since service locations are limited. The best place to do so is at the service center at the metro Gong Yuan Qian station. It may be worth it to simply keep it as a souvenir.
Guangzhou Metro
Guangzhou's metro system opened in 1999. The network covers much of the city center and is growing rapidly outward. The fare ranges from ¥2 to ¥12. Most of the signs and announcements are also in English. Tickets are bought from vending machines in the stations. Bills or coins from ¥1 - ¥20 are accepted at ticket vending machines. You can change smaller bills at the customer service counter. The ticket is a small plastic token, which you use at the gate entering the platform, and at the exit. Multi-Pass and Yang-Cheng-Tong are also accepted and can be purchased at the customer service counter.[5]
There is also a comprehensive public bus service that covers Guangzhou from end to end. By far, it is the cheapest way to move around. Bus fares are ¥1 for the older buses and ¥2 for the air-conditioned ones, although the older buses are slowly being retired.
There are also 3 tourist bus lines, passing through many scenic spots in the city.
This is the most popular way for foreigners to get around, and it is very affordable. The starting charge is ¥7 for the first 2.3 kilometers, or about 1.4 miles. After that is ¥2.6 for each kilometer. The cost may be slightly different, depending on the taxi operators. ¥1 fuel surcharge is now added. Although widely publicized, many of them actually do not accept Yang Cheng Tong as payment. The taxi hot line is 96900. This comes in handy when you forget your valuables in a taxi. Save your receipt because it contains the taxi's identification number.
Tip: Business names and addresses on this guide are also in Chinese. Print them out and show them to the taxi drivers. Most drivers do not speak English; many not even Cantonese.
While driving in Guangzhou is an option, drivers unfamiliar with the driving conditions in China's large and densely populated cities should be aware that the experience can be a extremely daunting and even potentially dangerous.
Car rental companies in Guangzhou:
See also Driving in China.
[edit] By motorcycle
Although a convenient way to navigate the city's back alleys and lanes, motorcycles are totally banned from the downtown area of city, and riding a motorcycle into these prohibited areas can lead to fines and possible confiscation of the bike.
In addition to the downtown motorcycle ban, electric bicycles are banned from the city road. [6]
[edit] Talk
The primary language of Guangzhou is Cantonese, although standard Mandarin, or Putonghua, is fast becoming the lingua franca due to the large influx of migrants. English is not common, but is still better understood here than other Chinese cities, especially in restaurants and bars. Be sure to check out the Cantonese phrasebook and Chinese phrasebook.
[edit] Landmarks
Sun Yat Sen Memorial
Our Lady of Lourdes Cathedral, on Shamian Island
* Guangxiao Temple (光孝寺 guāng-xiào-sì) 109 Guangxiao Lu (光孝路). As the sixth patriarch of Zen Buddhism, Hui Neng, trained at this temple in the 7th Century, it is a popular pilgrimage site for Zen Buddhists. The temple has been destroyed several times by fire, and the current buildings date only from the mid 19th century. (Admission ¥4) [Metro 1 Xi Men Kou - Exit C]
* Liurong Temple (六榕寺 liù-róng-sì) 87 Liurong Lu (六榕路). The Temple of Six Banyan Trees, which includes the 17 story, eight-sided Hua Ta, or Flowering Pagoda, is one of the most popular attractions in Guangzhou. The temple dates back to the 6th century, while the pagoda predates it by about 300 years. (Admission ¥5; Flower Pagoda: ¥10) [Metro 1 Gong Yuan Qian - Exit I]
* The buildings and streets of the former British and French concession on Shamian Island (沙面岛) have been beautifully renovated, creating an oasis of tranquility in an otherwise bustling and hectic metropolis. One of the old structures is Our Lady of Lourdes Chapel, located at 14 Shamian Street. Attractions on the island are all free. As an island, Shamian is not particularly spectacular, but what makes it special that for several hundred years this tiny spit of land was the only place in all of China that Europeans could establish settlements. The architecture reflects that era, and it has a very unique atmosphere. [Metro 1 Huang Sha - Exit D]
* Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall (中山纪念堂 zhōng-shān-jì-niàn-táng), located on Dongfeng Zhong Lu, is dedicated to the founder of the Republic of China and local hero Dr. Sun Yat-Sen. It was constructed in 1931 and built on the original site of Sun Yat-sen's presidential office on Yuexiu Hill. (8AM-6PM; Admission ¥5 to the park; ¥20 to go inside the hall) [Metro 2 Ji Nian Tang - Exit C]
* Chen Clan Temple (陈家祠 chén-jiā-cí) [7] Zhongshan 7 Lu (中山七路) This is a very well preserved architecture from the 19th century. It used to belong to a wealthy family by the name of Chen and now houses many articles including ivory sculptures and artistic statues. (Admission ¥10) [Metro 1 Chen Jia Ci - Exit D]
* Shishi Sacred Heart Catholic Church (石室圣心大教堂 shí-shì-shèng-xīn-jiào-táng) 56 Yide Lu (一德路旧部前). It is one of the oldest church structures in the city, and the largest of its kind of Southern China. It is currently in use for worship. Visiting hours are limited to Sunday morning only from 7AM-10AM. (Admission: Free) [Metro 2 Hai Zhu Guang Chang]
* Huangpu Military Academy (黄埔军校旧址 huáng-pǔ-jūn-xiào-jiù-zhǐ) is located on Changzhou Island. It was founded in 1924 by Sun Yat-sen, along with the Chinese Communist Party at the time. Many famous Chinese war heroes were trained here. (Admission ¥15)
* Wu Xian Guan Temple (五仙观 wǔ-xiān-guān) Weifu Xi Lu (惠福西路). (Admission ¥5) [Metro 1 Xi Men Kou Exit C]
* Huaisheng Mosque (怀圣寺 huái-shèng-sì) 56 Guangta Lu (光塔路) It is one of the oldest Muslim mosques in China, built in 627. The mosque is not open to the public, but you can take a peek outside. [Metro 1 Xi Men Kou Exit C]
* Sanyuan Temple (三元宫 sān-yuán-gōng) Yingyuan Lu. This is the largest and oldest Taoist temple in the city. [Metro 2 Ji Nian Tang - Exit C]
* Xiguan Residence (西关大屋 xī-guān-dà-wū) See the traditional Cantonese architectures from ancient Guangzhou, used to be occupied by the upper class. [Metro 1, Chang Shou Lu]
* Hualin Temple (华林寺 huá-lín-sì) [Tour Bus No. 2; Metro 1, Chang Shou Lu]
[edit] Museums and galleries
* Guangzhou City Art Museum (广州美术馆 guǎng-zhōu-měi-shù-guǎn), located near the Zhehai Building in Yuexiu Park, this impressive gallery has more than 10,000 pieces of art work, including calligraphy, traditional Chinese paintings, sculptures and Tibetan Buddhist art (Thangka). [Metro 2 Yue Xiu Gong Yuan]
* Guangdong Museum of Art (广东美术馆 guǎng-dōng-měi-shù-guǎn), 8 Yanyu Lu, Er-sha Island [8]. 9AM-5PM, Tu-Su. The museum is located on Er-Sha Island focusing on contemporary Chinese art, with particular emphasis on Guangdong artists. (Admission ¥15; under 18: free with paying parents) [Tour Bus No.2]
* Nanyue Royal Tomb Museum (南越王墓 nán-yuè-wáng-mù), 867 Jiefang Bei Lu (解放北路867号) - across from Yuexiu Park. This is a tomb of a king of ancient South China. (9AM-5:30PM; ¥12, 20 8666 0885) [Metro 2 Yue Xiu Gong Yuan]
* Guangzhou Sculpture Park (广州雕塑公园 guǎng-zhōu-diāo-sù-gōng-yuán), Tongxin Lu at the foot of Baiyun Mountain. [Tour Bus No. 1, 3]
* President Sun Yat-Sen Museum (孙中山大元帅府纪念馆) [9] 18 Dongsha Jie, Fangzhi Lu (纺织路东沙街18号). +86 20 3428-1366. (Admission ¥6; 9am-5pm; closed Monday)
* Guangzhou Uprising Museum (广州起义旧址纪念馆) 200 Qiyi Lu (起义路200号). The Museum is at the site of the first Communist government building. (9am—12pm; 1:30pm-4:30pm; closed Monday). [Metro 1, 2 Gong Yuan Qian Exit J]
* Guangdong Revolutions History Museum (广东革命历史博物馆) 2 Lingyuan Xi Lu [b8907[p (陵园西路2号大院之2) in the martyrs memorial park. Sun Yat-Sen was sworn in here in 1921 as the president of Republic of China. The museum tells stories from the Opium War to the founding of the new China. [Metro 1 Lie Shi Ling Yuan Exit D]
* Peasant Movement Institute (农民运动讲习所 nóng-jiǎng-suǒ) 42 Zhongshan 4 Lu (中山四路42号). This is the original site of Communist training center founded by Mao Tse-tong in the 1920s. Now it is a museum covering the recent China revolutionary history. (9am-4:30pm; closed Monday) [Metro 1, Nong Jiang Suo Exit C]
[edit] Parks
Yuntai Garden
Communist monument in Martyrs' Memorial Garden
* Huanghua Gang Commemoration Park (黄花岗公园 huáng-huā-gǎng-gōng-yuán) [10] 79 Xianlie Zhonglu. This is a park set in a poignant mood. The main attraction is the monument built to commemorate the 72 martyrs who died during the 1911 uprising. (6:00AM-8:30PM; Phone: +86 20 3758-8321; Admission ¥8) [Tour Bus No. 1]
* Yuexiu Park (越秀公园 yuè-xiù-gōng-yuán) [11] the largest urban park in China, is a lush green area that flows over acres of hills and includes several lakes, the Ming Dynasty Zhenhai Tower (镇海楼 zhèn-hǎi-lóu), now home to the City Museum with relics dating back to the 15th century, and an up-to-date miniature of Guangzhou. Also here in this park is the Stone Statue of the Five Rams (五羊石像), the symbol of Guangzhou (For more details, see 'History' section of Understand).(6AM-9PM; Admission: ¥5; Zhenhai Tower: ¥10) [Metro 2 Yue Xiu Gong Yuan Exit B1]
* Yuntai Garden (云台花园 yún-tái-huā-yuán) is situated at the foot of Baiyun (White Cloud) Mountain, famous for its wide variety of rare flowers and trees. From now to January 8, 2007, there is a beautiful 3-D flower exhibit. During this period, admission is ¥20, but it is well worth it. (Admission ¥10) [Tour Bus No. 1, 3]
* Huadu Square (花都广场 huā-dū-guǎng-chǎng) is a park-cum-recreation square located in the north part the city and near the government office buildings of Huadu District (花都区). The square incorporates, among other attractions, an outdoor theater, large fountain, outdoor dance area and statues. There is a large grass area that is similar to a Western style meadow, and also an area of subtropical forest and ornamental flower beds.
* Xiangjiang Wild Animal Safari Park (香江野生动物世界 xiāng-jiāng-yě-shēng-dòng-wù-shì-jiè) is in Panyu district.
* Guangzhou Martyrs' Memorial Garden (广州起义烈士陵园 guǎng-zhōu-qǐ-yì-liè-shì-líng-yuán) Zhongshan 2 Lu (中山二路). The park was dedicated to those who fought and died in the Communist Uprising in 1927. [Metro 1 Lie Shi Ling Yuan Exit D]
* Grand World Scenic Park (广州世界大观 guǎng-zhōu-shì-jiè-dà-guān) [12] 888 Daguanyuan Nan Lu (天河东圃大观园南路888号). 8:30AM-5:30PM. [Bus 548, 224, 245]
[edit] Mountains
* The Baiyun Shan (White Cloud Mountain) (白云山 bái-yún-shān) [13] is a great place to relax and enjoy a day among lush, rolling hills. It also offers great views over the city. The road to the top is restricted to park trams and pedestrians. To get to the top lookout point, you can use the main roads or trails. There are many places to rest and refreshments are available along the way. It is a great place to see people enjoying nature and playing games, such as badminton, football (soccer) and even bungie jump. There are many bus routes to and from different parts of the city, as well as taxis usually available near the park gate. (6AM-7PM; Park entrance ¥5; Cable Car: ¥40 round trip; tram: from ¥20; other attractions ¥5-¥10) [Tour Bus No. 1, 3]
* Lianhua Shan (Lotus Mountain) (莲花山 lián-huā-shān) features an impressive quarry from which red sand stones were mined about 2,000 years ago, a pagoda from 1612, and a barrack from 1664. The obligatory statue of Guanyin, the Buddhist Goddess of compassion, at the side of the Buddhist temple is also not to be missed. From Guangzhou, take bus 308 or 302 and exchange bus at Panyu (番禺). The bus takes about 2 hours and costs ¥14. There is a ferry service from Guangzhou at Tianzi Pier (天字码头) at Beijing Lu Nan (北京路南) for ¥25. The boat leaves at 8:15AM and returns at 3:15PM (Admission ¥30).
* Sun Yat-Sen University [14] (中山大学 zhōng-shān-dà-xué) This is the most famous university in Guangzhou and Southern China, founded by Sun Yat-sen, the founder of the Republic of China. The school now has 3 campuses. The old campus is green and beautiful, and has many historical sites. The north gate has a great river view. [Metro 2 Zhong Da - Exit A]
* Chinese medicine and acupuncture (中医和针灸) is taught at Guangzhou University of Traditional Medicine (广州中医药大学 guǎng-zhōu-zhōng-yī-dà-xué) [15]. This is one of the main universities for traditional medicine in China and attracts many overseas students. [Metro 2 San Yuan Li - Exit B]
[edit] Street markets
If time and weather permits, walking is perhaps the best way to see the city as the back alleys are littered with antiquities that are not accessible by motorized vehicles. Most trades and goods categories are concentrated in a specific area or along one main street.
* Xiguan Antique Street (西关古玩城) near Liwan Park (荔湾湖公园).
* Flower Street (花卉水族街) Baohua Lu (宝华路).
* Jade Street (玉器工艺街/玉器街) Changshou Lu (长寿路) and Wenchang Lu (文昌路), near Shangxiajiu Pedestrian Street. [Metro 1 Chang Shou Lu]
* Ivory and Sea products (象牙雕刻海味街) Daxin Lu (大新路).
* Toy Street (玩具街) and Dried goods and snacks Street (干果海味食品专业街) Yide Lu (一德路). [Metro 2 Hai Zhu Guang Chang]
* Bridal Street (婚纱专卖街) Jiangnan Bei Lu (江南大道北).
* Flowers, Aquatic and Lightings Street Danan Lu (大南街) near Beijing Lu (北京路). [Metro 1, 2 Gong Yuan Qian]
* Household Merchandise Street (日用百货街) Gaodi Jie (高第街). The street has become a shopping center selling everyday goods.
* Cultural Street (古玩字画街 / 文化商业街) Wende Lu (文德路). This is a good place to look for antiques and traditional Chinese artistic goods. [Metro 1 Long Jiang Suo]
* Qingping Market (清平市场) Qingping Lu (清平路). It is located North from Shamian Island. Cantonese are known to eat just about any animal, and the market is world famous for its wild animal trades, although it has been tamer since the SARS outbreak. It is still a great place to go for exotic goods. [Metro 1 Huang Sha]
* Haiyin Shopping District (海印专业购物区) is located at the northwest side of the Haiyin Bridge (海印大桥), selling appliances, sporting goods, cloth, fabrics, camera accessories, and eletronics.
[edit] Malls and shopping centers
Shangxiajiu pedestrian street
* Beijing Lu Pedestrian Street (北京路步行街 běi-jīng-lù). This is the main shopping thoroughfare, a pedestrian street where most stores are open from 9am to 10pm. Avoid touts who solicit pirated DVDs and imitation goods, and whomever you have to follow into the small dark alleys in between buildings to see the goods. Remember to visit Mayflower Plaza (五月花广场 wǔ-yuè-huā-guǎng-chǎng) at 68 Zhongshan 5 Lu (中山五路68号), at the northern end of the Pedestrian Street. This is a place where young people hang out and shop. [Metro 1, 2 Gong Yuan Qian - Exits C, D]
* Shangxiajiu Pedestrian Street (上下九商业步行街 shàng-xià-jiǔ) This shopping area is also a showcase of traditional Cantonese architecture, especially pretty at night when it's lit up. Prices here are generally lower than Beijing Lu's, but prepare to bargain a fair bit. Remember to visit Liwan Plaza (荔湾广场 lì-wān-guǎng-chǎng), located at 9 Dexing Lu (德星路9号), the east end of the street. You will find a good selection of crystal here. [Metro 1 Chang Shou Lu - Exits D1, D2]
* Grandview Plaza / Zhengjia Plaza (广百正佳广场 zhèng-jiā-guǎng-chǎng) [16] 228 Tianhe Lu (天河路228号). +86 020 3833-0098. This is the largest Western-style shopping mall in China. [Metro 1, 3 Ti Yu Zhong Xin]
* China Plaza (中华广场 zhōng-huá-guǎng-chǎng). 33 Zhongshan 3 Lu (中山三路33号). Located on top of a metro station, this is another large shopping mall with brand name department stores, clothing and electronics stores, restaurants, etc. [Metro 1 Lie Shi Ling Yuan]
* Tee Mall (天河城 tiān-hé-chéng) [17] (Chinese) 208 Tianhe Lu (天河路208号). This is probably the busiest and most popular shopping mall in the heart of the city. It is located right above the metro station. [Metro 1 Ti Yu Xi Lu]
* Zhong Tian Shopping Plaza (中天购物城 zhōng-tiān-gòu-wù-chéng) Located at Zhongxin Square near the East Train Station (天河北路 233号中信广场), it's more than a place to shop and eat. The plaza has great one-stop services to meet your banking, dry cleaning, grooming and transportation ticket needs. [Metro 1 Guangzhou Dong Zhan]
* Friendship Store (广州友谊商店 yǒu-yí-shāng-diàn) 369 Huanshi Dong Lu (环市东路369号). 9:45AM-9:45PM. It is one of the oldest department stores targeting foreigners in Guangzhou. You will also find its branches in Zhengjia Plaza and Times Square on 28 Tianhe Beilu (天河北路28号).
* Zi You Ying Outdoor Travel Goods (自由营户外旅游用品店) 229 Jiangnan Dadao Zhong, Xin An Plaza Suite 180 (江南大道中229号新安大厦180号地铺) This is a great place to replenish your travel supplies.
* Wang Fu Jing (王府井百货 wáng-fǔ-jǐng) 40 Long Lin Xia Lu (农林下路40号). The famous department store in Beijing opened a branch in Guangzhou with the same name, featuring mid to high-end products.
Pearl River Dinner Cruise
* Pearl River dinner cruise (珠江夜游) Dashatou Pier (大沙头码头), Tianzi Pier (天字码头), and Xiti Pier (西堤码头). A one to two hour cruise in the evening and a great way to see the Guangzhou skyline along the Pearl River, including a light show at Bai-E-Tan. Tickets for the deluxe dinner cruise can be bought from most high-end hotels, such as the White Swan on Shamian Island. (From ¥50)
[edit] Festivals
* Chinese New Year/Spring Festival (春节 chūn-jié) on 1st day of 1st lunar month, usually in January or February. This is a 15 day celebration, and some districts can be quite deserted as many migrant workers return to their home provinces. The flower fair is popular during the days before New Year.
* Dragon Boat Festival (端午节 duān-wǔ-jié) on 5th day of 5th lunar month, usually in May or June. This festival commemorates the sacrifice of Qu Yuan (屈原), a famous poet who drowned himself in the river by way of making a statement against government corruption during the Warring States Period. The highlights are dragon boat racing along the Pearl River, and eating rice dumplings wrapped in bamboo leaves (粽子).
* Mid-autumn Festival (中秋节 zhōng-qiū-jié) on 15th day of 8th lunar month, usually in September or October. Cantonese moon cakes are enjoyed during this holiday. Lian Xiang Lou and Tao Tao Ju's moon cakes are especially famous (see "Eat" section). Kids' favorites are paper lanterns. Many locals also enjoy riding ferries and watching the full moon on the Pearl River.
* Tomb Sweeping Day (清明节 qīng-míng-jié) around the spring equinox, usually on April 5th. Involves visits to the family tombs for cleaning and making offerings.
* Chinese Valentines Day (七夕 qī-xī) on 7th day of 7th lunar month, usually in August or September. According to legend, a heavenly fairy Zhi Nu (织女) fell in love with a mortal farm boy Niu Lang (牛郎). It's forbidden of course, so as punishment, they are only allowed to meet once a year on this day. This is the Chinese equivalent of Valentine's Day, but it is steadily losing its appeal among the locals, especially to the young.
* Winter Solstice (冬至 dōng-zhì - literally, the Coming of Winter) on December 22nd. Traditionally, Cantonese people observe the day with a family feast, which often includes preserved duck and sausages. However, the highlight of the day's festive dishes is hot soup served with flour dumplings (汤圆).
[edit] The Canton Fair
Twice a year, in Spring and Fall, Guangzhou hosts the China Export Commodities Fair (中国出口商品交易会)[18], also known as the Canton Fair. It has been running since 1957 and for many years was almost the only way foreign businesses could make contacts in China. It is still very important. Anyone who is doing or wants to do business with China should consider visiting.
If you are going to the fair, book a hotel well in advance. Hotels tend to be full and expensive during the Fair. China Hotel and Dongfang Hotel are probably the best places to stay if you can afford it. It is right across the street from one of the main exhibit halls. Many good hotels provide shuttle services to the main exhibit centers during the fair. Taxis may not be your best option since there are traffic controls in the exhibit areas.
The two main exhibit halls are the Pazhou Complex at 380 Yuejiang Zhong Lu (阅江中路380号) [Metro 2 Pa Zhou], and the old Liuhua Complex at 117 Liuhua Lu (流花路117号) [Metro 2 Yue Xiu Gong Yuan].
Cantonese cuisine is well-known for its blend of color, fragrance, taste and presentation. In particular, dim sum the delicate Cantonese pastry is famous for being simple yet delicious. Cantonese cuisine is among the top four in the country. This said, there are a couple of points worth remembering. The sanitary standards, except in better restaurants, are generally low. Don't be fooled by all the rave about the cuisine, be careful about where you eat and what you order. A lot of restaurants have menus with pictures, which is essential if you don't speak the language.
[edit] Traditional
* Liuhua Congee House (流花粥城), Renmin Bei Lu (人民北路903号流花湖公园) (In Liuhua Park), ☎ +86 20 8668-0108. Excellent dim sum and beatiful surroundings. [Metro 2 Yue Xiu Gong Yuan]
* Panxi Restaurant (泮溪酒家), 151 Longjin Xi Lu (龙津西路151号), ☎ +86 20 8181-5718. Traditional Chinese restaurant famous for their dim sum. Menu in English is available, but the restaurant accepts only local credit cards.
* Lian Xiang Lou (莲香楼), 67 Dishipu Lu (第十甫路67号), ☎ +86 20 8181-1638. Founded in 1889, Lian Xiang Lou is known for it's tasty dim sum. [Metro 1 Chang Shou Lu]
* Tao Tao Ju (陶陶居), 20 Dishipu Lu (第十甫路20号), ☎ +86 20 8138-9632. Tao Tao's speciality is the Cantonese moon cakes [Metro 1 Chang Shou Lu]
* Guangzhou Restaurant (广州酒家), 2 Wenchang Nan Lu (文昌南路2号), ☎ +86 20 8138-0388. This Cantonese family-restaurant has several branches all over the city. Other convenient locations include 20 Binjiang Xi Lu (滨江西路20号) and 112 Ti Yu Dong Lu(体育东路112号). [Metro 1 Chang Shou Lu]
* Datong Restaurant (大同酒家), 63 Yanjiang Lu (沿江路63号), ☎ +86 20 8188-8988. This huge restaurant spans all the 8 eight floors of the old building. The place has been around for a long time and is a favourite among locals.
* Wenji Restaurant (文记壹心鸡), 10 Xuanyuan Qiao (荔湾区宝华路旋源桥10号), ☎ +86 20 8172-8887. As the place was established by the former chefs from Qingping restaurant, they have the original Qingping chicken on the menu. [Metro 1 Chang Shou Lu]
* Baifu Restaurant (百福酒家), 112 Tiyu Dong Lu (体育东路112号百福广场三楼) (3/F, Baifu Plaza), ☎ +86 20 3880-8268. [Metro 1 Ti Yu Zhong Xin]
[edit] Vegetarian
* Shui Yun Tian (水云天), 38-42 Jinghui Lu (净慧路38-42号首层) (next to the Guangxiao Temple), ☎ +86 20 8107-2463. 6:30AM-2:30PM, 4:30PM-9:30PM. Great buffet around noon. [Metro 1 Xi Men Kou]
* Cai Gen Xiang (菜根香), 167 Zhongshan 6 Lu (中山六路167号), ☎ +86 20 8334-4363. 6:30AM-2:30PM, 5PM-9PM. [Metro 1 Xi Men Kou]
* Fo Shi Jie (佛世界素食馆), Niu Nai Chang Jie (同福中路牛奶厂街二圣宫前2-8号) (by Tongfu Zhong Lu), ☎ +86 20 8424-3590. 7AM-9PM. A part of the profit from this humble Buddhist vegetarian restaurant is given to charity.
* Fo You Yuan (佛有缘素食馆), 12 Shi Lu Ji Zhongshan 8 Lu; 712 Shangjiu Lu (上九路712号), ☎ +86 20 8181-9188. 6:30AM-3PM, 5PM-10PM. [Metro 1 Chang Shou Lu] Interesting and new vegetarian dishes.
[edit] Southeast Asian
* Cow and Bridge Thai Restaurant (牛桥泰菜), 2/F, Xiang Long Garden, 181 Tianhe Bei Lu (天河北路181号祥龙花园二楼), ☎ +86 20 8525-0821. This famous Thai restaurant offers many varities of Thai dishes. Ask for the more fiery version of your meal, if you're used to Thai cuisine, as the dishes are somewhat localized. [Metro 3 Lin He Xi]
* Lan Kwai Fong (兰桂坊), 5 Shamian Nan Jie (沙面南街5号), ☎ +86 20 8121-6523. good curries and polite service in this Shamian Island favorite. It is tourist friendly and menus are available in English. [Metro 1 Huang Sha]
* Banana Leaf (蕉叶西餐厅), 28 Tianhe Bei Lu (天河北路28号时代广场2楼) (2/F, Times Square), ☎ +86 20 3891-0728, [19]. Traditional and established Thai restaurant chain in Guangzhou. They have also restaurants at GZTV Hotel (G/F, 8 Luhu Lu, +86 20 8359-7499) and World Trade Center (5/F, 371-375 Huanshi Dong Lu). [Metro 3 Lin He Xi]
[edit] Western
* The Italian Restaurant (小街风情意大利餐厅), 360 Huanshi Dong Lu (环市东路360号珠江大厦东座3楼) (3/F, East Tower, Zhujiang Building), ☎ +86 20 8386-3840. 10:30AM-2AM. Despite the unimaginative name, this is the place to come, if you're craving for Italian in Guangzhou. The pizzas are somewhat localized.
* The Mexican Restaurant. Just above the Italian Restaurant. OK but not great, fairly expensive.
* La Seine (塞纳河法国餐厅), 33 Qingbo Lu (G/F, Zinghai Concert Hall), ☎ +86 20 8735-2222. The best French restaurant in the city. Also, one of the most expensive restaurants.
[edit] Foreign Chains
Foreign fast food, ice cream and coffee chains are well established in Guangzhou. These include KFC (肯德基), Pizza Hut (必胜客), McDonald's (麦当劳), Starbucks (星巴克) and Häagen-Dazs (哈根达斯). All of these can be found in the Zhengjia Plaza (See "Shop").
[edit] Bars & Pub
When it comes to drinks, Guangzhou is one of the best cities in China to knock back a few. With a relatively large population of foreigners here, the city offers a wide variety of nightspots to cater to all tastes.
Tsing Tao and Zhu Jiang are the two major Chinese beer brands that are sold almost everywhere. Both are fairly standard light lagers. Carlsberg is also brewed in Guangzhou, which explains the reasonably huge amount of Carlsberg taps in the bars.
For latest reviews of restaurants, bars and night clubs pick up a free copy of That's PRD [20], a monthly English publication. It is available at several hotels and lounges.
* Overseas Chinese Village, next to Holiday Inn Guangzhou. This is a sort of bar street consisting of six or seven bars side by side, all two-storey buildings with a different theme on each floor. Prices are on the high side, costing about ¥40 for a small bottle of beer.
* Hill Bar, outside Baiyun Hotel and opposite Garden Hotel. Reasonable price for drinks (¥30 for a pint of beer, less at happy hour) Live band performance every evening.
Gipsy King Bar
* Tang Club, 1 Jianshe 6 Malu (建设六马路1号). This is one of the most expensive places to hang out in Guangzhou, featuring a live band that plays good old rock-and-roll as well as contemporary rock. This is the place to be seen. The crowd is a mixture of expats and local wannabes. A small bottle of beer costs ¥50.
* Strange Brew, 200m from the Ramada Hotel, 103 Ming Yue Xie. Three Canadians own this bar and burger joint. It is simply the best place in Guangzhou to get a great burger and put back some cheap draught beer. They are the only bar in Guangzhou serving German and Belgian draught beer and they host regular parties that rock out. This is a meeting place for Expats and Chinese and a good place to start your night. Directions/information: 13450227140
* The Cave (墨西哥餐厅酒吧) 360 Huanshi Dong Lu (环市东路360号珠江大厦东侧) +86 020 8386-3660. Located at the basement on the end of the Zhu Jiang Building (珠江大厦) nearer to the Garden Hotel, this is a favourite expat hangout. The resident DJ spins a wide range of music, from pop to disco to trance. Erotic dance performances, i.e. live-python dance, start late on the dance floor. ¥30 for a standard drink.
* Gipsy King Bar (大篷车酒吧) 360 Huanshi Dong Lu (环市东路360号珠江大厦西地下). +86 020 8387-5177. Located on the opposite end of the Zhu Jiang Building from The Cave, this is an underground bar on a similar theme. Many local "working" girls sashay around, looking for a good time. There are individual dance performances at one corner of the bar, while group performances start on the main dance floor from 10PM. ¥30 for a standard drink.
* Paddy Field Irish Pub & Restaurant, probably the only Irish Pub in Guangzhou, round the back of Garden Hotel. Serves pretty good western food. Drinks are at usual bar prices.
Bar Street at Bai-E-Tan
* Sleeping Wood Cafe, a nice cozy restaurant pub next to the Holiday Inn with friendly, English speaking waiters and waitresses. Serves western food and all kinds of alcoholic drinks. One-for-one pint-sized Tsingtao draft beer during happy hour (before 8PM). Good place to unwind and take it easy, especially in the open area. A drink costs ¥25-30. There's a separate branch along the Pearl River.
* Sky Bar, newly opened in June 2006, also next to the Holiday Inn. Serves Brazilian-style food and all kinds of drinks. Standard drinks start from ¥25.
* Lucy's (Cafe Bar) next to the White Swan Hotel, right by the Pearl River. Excellent western food and drinks for very reasonable prices. Very nice area in the open for al-fresco dining.
* Bai-E-Tan Bar Street (白鹅潭酒吧风情街) Changdi Street (长堤街) in the Fangcun area, across the river from White Swan Hotel. The street is packed with bars, but action is scarce until at least 10:30PM. It is recommended to have dinner in one of the nearby restaurants before heading out to the bars. Special promotions, such as a half dozen bottles of beer for ¥100, are common. [Metro 1 Fang Cun]
[edit] Tea houses
The culture of tea drinking, also known as Yum Cha (饮茶), runs deep in Guangzhou. After all, the city was at the center of the massive tea trade that existed between China and Europe during the 19th century.
* Simple Love Tea Shop, #102, 94 Tianhe Nan 1 Lu (Down from the south gate of Teem Plaza). 3PM-2AM.
* Tian Chang Di Jiu, 1 Zhengping Zhong Jie, Taojin Lu, ☎ +86 20 8358-1627.
* Chun Ya Yuan Teahouse, 19 Siyou Xin Ma Lu (4/F, Changcheng Hotel), ☎ +86 20 8761-2888 ext.6488. 7PM-1AM.
* Crystal Tea House, 6 Longkou Dong Lu, Tianhe (1/F, Yuan Yang Hotel), ☎ +86 20 8759-6988 ext.67. 10AM-2AM.
* Wong Chun Loong Herbal Tea. Several branches at 17 Wenchang Nan Lu, 109 Huagui Lu, 51 Dishipu Lu, 504 Xihua Lu, 859 Longjin Dong Lu, 25 Longjin Xi Lu, 142 to 144 Huanshi Xi Lu, 4-lst No.1 street, Xiwan Dong Lu, 320 Duobao Lu and 120 Shangjiu Lu.
[edit] Coffee
* People's Cakes & Coffee, #102, 17 Jianshe 6 Ma Lu (建设六马路17号102房), ☎ +86 20 8376-6677. Enjoy cakes and coffee at this Western coffee shop run by Koreans. There is another branch at 98 Taojin Nan Lu (Tel. +86 20 8348-8085).
WARNING: The last two weeks of April and October (April 15-30 and October 15-30) coincide with the annual Guangzhou International Trade Fairs. Hotel room rates are unreasonably hiked up anything from 200% to 400%, including hostels! If you're not travelling to see the Trade Fair, you might want to consider another period of time.
This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget Under ¥150
Splurge Over ¥500
* Guangdong Youth Hostel (广东省外事办招待所), 2 Shamian 4 Jie (沙面四街2号) (diagonally across the street from the landmark White Swan Hotel), ☎ +86 20 8121-8298. It is clean, convenient and reasonably priced for Guangzhou. English is spoken. There are 8 dorm beds in each room, and it only costs ¥50 per bed (¥200 to have your own room). It is probably the cheapest western-style accommodation in Guangzhou. Reservations are accepted and encouraged, since the hostel is usually at its capacity. This hostel was featured on the Globe Trekker. [Metro 1 Huang Sha]
* Tielu Tong Tong Hotel, 101 Guangyuan Xi Lu. A few blocks down from the train station has rooms at ¥100 for the first night, ¥80 for subsequent nights. It's on their business cards in English only. That's hot water, toilet, air-conditioned, spacious and noisy. [Metro 2 Guangzhou HuoCheZhan]
* City Youth Hostel (广州国际青年旅舍), 179 Huanshi Xi Lu (环市西路179号), ☎ +86 20 8666-6889. This youth hostel offers tiny single rooms for about ¥80 (¥270 Oct.)per night (¥60 for members). Located close to the train station it does not provide the nicest environment. [Metro 2 Guangzhou HuoCheZhan]
* Bin Jiang Hostel (滨江青年旅舍), 405 Yanjiang Dong Lu (大沙头沿江东路405号), ☎ +86 20 8383-4110. A little far from the center of the city, but the dorm bed rate is very cheap at around ¥60 (¥180 Oct). Having your own room and shower will cost you ¥170. There is no close Metro access.
[edit] Mid range
* Hotel Landmark (华厦大酒店), 8 Qiaoguang Lu, Haizhu Square (海珠广场侨光路8号), ☎ +86 20 8335-5988, [21]. [Metro 2, Hai Zhu Guang Chang]
* Guangzhou Hotel (广州宾馆), 2 Qiyi Lu, Haizhu Square (海珠广场起义路2号), ☎ +86 20 8333-8168, [22]. Currently there are heavy constructions taking place outside the hotel for the next year (2007) or so. [Metro 2, Hai Zhu Guang Chang]
* Guangdong Victory Hotel (广东胜利宾馆), 53 Shamian Bei Jie (沙面北街53号), ☎ +86 20 8121-6688, [23]. This rather upmarket hotel on Shamian Island offers good value rooms and nice service. English is spoken. Small travel agency handles plane, train and other tickets. There is also a recently renovated Annex building nearby, which offers cheaper rooms than the main building. (From ¥320) [Metro 1 Huang Sha]
* Hotel Canton (广州大厦), 374 Beijing Lu (广州市北京路374号), ☎ +86 20 8318-9888, [24]. This once a glorious hotel is now a bit outdated, but is superbly located in the northern end of Beijing Lu pedestrian shopping street. Metro station for both lines 1 and 2 is nearby for easy access. (From ¥390) [Metro 1, 2 Gong Yuan Qian]
* Baiyun Hotel (白云宾馆), 367 Huanshi Dong Lu (环市东路367号) (across from Garden Hotel), ☎ +86 20 8333-3998, [25]. Baiyun hotel is a member of Best Western hotel chain.
* Liuhua Hotel, 194 Huanshi Xi Lu (across from main train station), ☎ +86 20 8666-8800, [26].
* White Swan Hotel (白天鹅宾馆), 1 Shamian Nan Jie (沙面南街1号), ☎ +86 20 8188-6968, [27]. Located on the banks of the Pearl River on the quiet Shamian Island, the White Swan is complimented by a charming park nearby where locals can be found doing Tai Chi along with various native dances. Surrounding the hotel are blocks of little shops run by locals willing to bargain. (Keep in mind that many of the shops carry identical items, so finding an item cheaper somewhere else is likely.) The White Swan offers a traditional Chinese restaurant and an American style restaurant to accommodate its visitors. (From ¥800) [Metro 1 Huang Sha]
* Holiday Inn City Centre Guangzhou (文化假日酒店), 28 Guangming Lu, Overseas Chinese Village, Huanshi Dong Lu(环市东路华侨新村光明路28号) (off Ouzhuang Intersection), ☎ +86 20 6128-6868, [28]. Not exactly the newest, biggest or cheapest hotel around, what the Holiday Inn offers is a convenient location and excellent staff service, thanks in part to its association with the Intercontinental Hotels Group, which places great emphasis on customer service. Rooms are clean, have comfortable beds and pillows, and a good selection of TV channels. Internet access is stable but costs ¥100 a day. Priority Club platinum members get automatic upgrades to executive rooms (based on availability) and access to the executive lounge. Airline ticketing office and Hertz car rental counter available. There's also another Holiday Inn at 188 Dishifu Lu.
* Garden Hotel (花园酒店), 368 Huanshi Dong Lu (环市东路368号), ☎ +86 20 8333-8989, [29]. Indisputably the most recognizable hotel in the heart of the city. It has both standard hotel rooms as well as apartments and offices for rent. Deluxe rooms are clean but basic. Elite rooms are newly renovated and attractive. Excellent dinner buffet at the revolving restaurant on the top level. This hotel is also complemented with shops and boutiques selling brand name goods, a HSBC branch, a Bank of China branch, and a bus station serving express buses to the Guangzhou Baiyun Airport, Hong Kong International Airport and nearby cities such as Zhuhai.
* Asia International Hotel (亚洲国际大酒店), 326 Huangshi Dong Lu, Sec 1 (环市东路326号), ☎ +86 20 6128-8888, [30]. This is one of a handful of hotels that feature separate bath and shower areas in a standard room. Internet access is free but slow. It also features Guangzhou's highest revolving restaurant on the top level.
* Guangdong International Hotel (广东国际大酒店), 339 Huanshi Dong Lu (环市东路339号), ☎ +86 20 8331-1888, [31].
* Dong Fang Hotel (东方宾馆), 120 Liuhua Lu (流花路120号), ☎ +86 20 8666-9900, [32]. [Metro 2 Yue Xiu Gong Yuan]
* China Hotel (中国大酒店), 100 Liuhua Lu (流花路100号), ☎ +86 20 8666-6888, [33]. It is a Marriott hotel in the heart of Downtown. Its ground level has direct access to Guangzhou Metro. (From ¥650) [Metro 2 Yue Xiu Gong Yuan]
* Oriental Resort (广州鸣泉居), 1068 Baiyun Dadao Nan (白云大道南1068号), ☎ +86 20 8663-2888, [34]. The hotel is located on Baiyun Mountain, quiet and away from the city. (From ¥600)
* China Mayors Plaza (广州市长大厦), 189 Tianhe Bei Lu (天河北路189号), ☎ +86 20 8755-3838, [35]. (From ¥600)
Firearms are banned in the country except for police and military use, but the streets can still be dangerous in its own way for the unwary. Due to the enormous number of people from other mainland provinces flocking to Guangzhou in the hope of finding jobs (often unsuccessfully), the area surrounding the main train station has gained a notorious reputation for being chaotic, unsafe and rampant with petty crimes. Pickpockets are especially active here. In recent years, armed (large blades, knives, and such) robberies in the open and abductions which resulted in first degree murders have been on the rise in the city. Just bear in mind, when people become desperate, they will do anything to get what they want. If you are getting robbed, do not expect the crowd to help. And if they are armed, do not fight back. The best defence, as always, is common sense. Do not flash your valuables in public, do not wander around by yourself late at night and remain alert at all times. Use only official taxis and get advice from the government-run tourist office.
With its vast, ever-increasing population, there will always be people (mostly from out of town) who just seem to be hanging around. Those unaccustomed to this may feel intimidated, especially Westerners who get stared at a lot. However, please remember that rural Chinese are not used to seeing a "Lao Wai" (a Westerner), so their stares are merely out of interest, and should not be taken as something rude or offensive. In this respect, it is important to be aware that 3 out of 10 people in Guangzhou are migrants from other provinces.
Traffic accident rates in Guangzhou (or China for that matter) are significantly higher than those of other countries. Use extra caution when crossing streets; use pedestrian bridges and tunnels whenever possible. Like everywhere else in China, cars do not yield to pedestrians. Instead, drivers automatically expect pedestrians to yield to them. So in most cases, they don't stop until it's too late. Due to the high number of traffic accidents and crimes involving motorcycles, they will be totally banned in Guangzhou starting in 2007. Once the most important mode of transportation in China, bicycles will be also limited to certain roads within the city.
Emergency numbers are: Police: 110; Fire: 119; Medical: 120; Traffic accident: 122.
* The area dialing code for Guangzhou is 020. From overseas, dial +86 20 XXXX-XXXX. Phone numbers are 8 digits.
* Tourism Administration of Guangzhou Municipality (广州市旅游局) [36] 180 Huanshi Xi Lu (环市西路180号). +86 20 8107-8291.
* Consulates
o U.S. Consulate, Guangzhou (美国驻广州总领事馆) [37] Note that the visa, passport and adoption sections of the Consulate have recently moved to 5th Floor Tian Yu Garden (Phase II) 136-146 Linhe Zhong Lu; Mailing address remains and other offices remain at: 1 Shamian Nan Jie, Guangzhou 510133. +86 20 8121-8000. This is the only U.S. Consulate in China that processes adoption visas. Over 7,000 were issued in 2005.
o Australia Consulate Guangdong International Hotel Suite 1509; +86 20 8335-5911.
o Canada Consulate China Hotel Office Tower Suite 801; +86 20 8666-0569.
o U.K. Consulate Guangdong International Hotel, Second and Seventh Floor; +86 20 8333-6520.
o Consulate General of Australia in GuangzhouA dd: Rm 1509, CITIC Plaza Tel: 83350909
o Consulate General of Canada in Guangzhou Add: Rm 801, China Hotel Tel: 86660569
o Consulate General of Finland in Guangzhou Add: Rm 803, CITIC Plaza Tel: 38770188
o Consulate General of France in Guangzhou Add: Rm 803, CITIC Plaza Tel: 83303405
o Consulate General of Germany in Guangzhou Add: 103 Shamian Bei Jie, Shamian Island Tel: 81922566
o Consulate General of Japan in Guangzhou Add: Garden Hotel, Huanshi Dong Lu Tel: 83343090
o Consulate General of Malaysia in Guangzhou Add: Floor 3,Ramada Pearl Hotel [38] Tel: 87395660
o Consulate General of Netherlands in Guangzhou Add: Unit 705, Main Tower, CITIC Plaza Tel: 83302067
o Consulate General of Philippines in Guangzhou Add: Floor 1, White Swan Hotel, Shamian Island Tel: 81886968
o Consulate General of Thailand in Guangzhou Add: White Swan Hotel, Shamian Island Tel: 81886968
o Consulate General of U.K .in Guangzhou Add: Floor 2, CITIC Plaza Tel: 83351354
o Consulate General of U.S.A. in Guangzhou Add: Shamian Nan Lu, Shamian Island Tel: 81888911
o Consulate General of the Socialist Republic of Viet Nam in Guangzhou Add: Shamian Hotel Guangzhou Tel: 88888124
o Consulate General of the Republic of Poland in Guangzhou Add: 63 Shamian Dajie Guangzhou Tel: 88861854, 88865009
* Internet cafes are common in major Chinese cities, though are often the target of government crackdowns. Popular ones in Guangzhou include:
o Worldwide Network on Jiangsu Lu
o the more up-market Sparkice in Central Plaza on Huai Hai Zhong Lu
o China Mayors Plaza (市长大厦). 189 Tianhe Bei Lu (天河北路189号)
o Budget Internet Cafe on Fuzhou Lu.
* Police: The Public Security Bureau is at 155 Jiefang Nan Lu (解放南路155号) +86 20 8311-5808 (Monday to Friday 8:50-11:30AM, 2:30-5PM.) You can get your visa extension done here if needed.
[edit] Banking
ATMs that accept foreign credit or debit cards are common in shopping malls and tourist areas. Withdrawal is available in Chinese currency only. Most banks also accept exchanges from your local currencies to RMB. Your passport is required for this service. However, they do not change it back to your local currencies.
* Bank of China (中国银行) [39] There is a branch inside Garden Hotel. ATM is available on the ground floor of White Swan Hotel, and over 100 locations in Guangzhou. Their ATMs are the best bet for using foreign cards.
* Bank of America [40] Rm 2506, 555 Renmin Zhong Lu. +86-20 8130-0888. The bank has alliance with China Construction Bank.
* Citi [41] Unit 101, Fortune Plaza No. 118 TiYu East Road Tian He district. +86-20-38981688. This bank has a full service branch, foreign currency exchange services, and a 24 hour International ATM Service.
[edit] Laundry
Few lower end hotels and hostels have coin-operated self-service laundry room. Self-service laundromats are not available on the streets, although dry clean and laundry stores are available to clean your clothes. Normally you can drop your clothes off and pick them up the next day. One laundry chain is TianTian (天天洗衣), which is conveniently located in all Metro stations. There are many stores on Shamian Island that have laundry service. An average load of laundry costs about ¥100.
[edit] Television
Guangzhou Television (GZTV) [42] has an English channel, offering entertainment and cultural programs. There are several English channels from Hong Kong, available in most hotels, offer a great selection of prime time shows from US and UK.
[edit] Places of worship
All the religious sites listed in the See section are open to worshippers.
* Christian: Guangzhou International Christian Fellowship [43] holds weekly service on Sundays at 10AM for expats from around the world in English. You must show your travel documents to enter since residents are not allowed there due to local laws. The meeting location is Star Hotel (景星酒店) near the East Train Station. Phone: 1366 234 6904. Hotel Address: 89 Linhe Xi Lu (林和西路89号). [Metro 1 Dong Zhan]
[edit] Gym
Guangzhou has several branches of Total Fitness. One of the locations is at the 8th floor of Zhengjie Plaza (正佳广场).
[edit] Health
* Guangdong Provincial People's Hospital is near the Garden Hotel. 106 Zhong Shan Er Lu. +86 20 8382-7812, 2062-2031.
* Kaiyi International Dental Care [44] Ice Flower Hotel, 2 Tianhe Bei Lu. +86 20 3886-4821, 3387-4278.
[edit] Mail
* Post Office There is a post office on Shamian (Shamian 3 Jie 沙面三街) 9AM-5PM, closed on Sunday.
* DHL There is a branch in Garden Hotel.
* Visit the peach orchards and canals at nearby Xinjiao.
* Yuanxuan Taoist Temple includes three Taoist temples in one complex: Sanqing Temple, Taihe Temple and Yuanchen Temple. Sanqing Temple is the most architecturally important of the three structures, while Yuanxuan Taoist Temple has carvings of divine beings. The central hall is covered by yellow glazed tiles and decorated with the bright images of Yuqing, Shangqing and Taiqing, the three authoritative deities in Taoism. The temple is located near Bi Village in southwest Xinhua Town. You can take the No. 9 bus from Hua Du Downtown. (Admission ¥2)
* The dwellings of overseas Chinese from the early 20th century in Kaiping (开平).
* Foshan (佛山) is only an hour away from Guangzhou. Famous for its Ancestry Temple (祖庙), it is also the home to legendary Wong Fei Hong, a martial art master.
* Hong Kong (香港) is 2-3 hours away, depending on the modes of transportation. It is so busy that some people call it "America on Steroid."
* Humen (虎门) in Dongguan (东莞) is famous for its Opium War era relics (虎门销烟). It is a bridge away from the Nansha District.
* Shenzhen (深圳) is a new city on the borders of Hong Kong, one of the first special economic zones set up in China. Check out theme parks such as Windows of the World, The China Folk Culture Villages and Splendid China. Frequent buses and trains are available (Tickets around ¥60 - ¥80). The trip will take 1 to 2 hours. Make sure you have your passport while traveling to Shenzhen, they check it when you enter Shenzhen, although you are still in Guangdong, China.
* Zhuhai (珠海) is another special economic zone to the south, at the border with Macau. You can get a bus ride from any of the major bus stations in the city.
written by  garisti on May 1, 2008 from Guangzhou, China

Yangshuo, China
Yangshuo (阳朔) is a very scenic, small tourist town surrounded by mountains and beautiful scenery.
Yangshuo isn't your typical Chinese town as it seems to have a lot in common with Southeast Asia. The main drag of hostels, guest houses and restaurant could be straight out of Ko Samui or Sihanoukville if dog wasn't on the menu at so many tourist restaurants. Yangshuo has a reputation as a foreigners' village in Southern China, with authentic western cuisine and a good standard of English spoken. This town feels like one of the stops on the travelers' trail, with lots of the same people you'd expect in Amsterdam, Bali or Katmandu. While this certainly isn't the whole story, the town is in some ways a break from the rest of China. Yangshuo is also a great place to base yourself for a relaxing few days of exploring the karst scenery and rivers, checking out caves, local temples, or just taking it easy in one of the many cafes and bars.
Yangshuo has no airport. The nearest airport is in Guilin. As yet, there are no direct buses from the airport to Yangshuo. There is an airport bus you can take into Guilin and then take a bus or boat to Yangshuo.
Yangshuo is not served by train and the nearest railway station is Guilin. Minibuses to Yangshuo conveniently depart from the square in front of Guilin railway station. For bus connections, see below.
From Guilin: There are frequent minibuses and express buses to Yangshuo from Guilin. All buses terminate at the bus terminal in Yangshuo. Minibuses cost (RMB 10. Buy tickets on the bus) depart from the square in front of the Guilin railway station. The journey takes between one and one-and-a-half hours as buses stop along the way. Express buses (RMB 15. Buy tickets from counter inside terminal) depart every half hour from the Guilin bus terminal off Zhongshan Zhong Lu and take just an hour.
In Yangshuo, wait for minibuses at the exit of the bus terminal at Die Cui Lu; the first bus to depart will be at the head of the queue. Express buses depart half hourly from 7am from their allotted bay inside the terminal. Buy tickets from the glass counter.
Beware that on the bus from Guilin, unscrupulous hawkers frequently stop the bus before the centre of town urging you to get off while claiming this is Yangshuo and the bus will continue to another place. The reason for this is to make you have to pay for them taking you to the centre of town and to their hotel.
From Guangdong: Overnight sleeper buses run direct to Yangshuo from Shenzhen on the Hong Kong border, from Zhuhai on the Macau border, and from Guangzhou. These cost around RMB 100-250 depending on which station in Shenzhen you want to go to and how new a bus you go on. The buses to the border in Shenzhen are the dearest.
From Nanning: Two daily buses go directly to Nanning, leaving Yangshuo at 8am and 9am. They go to Guilin first where they stop for just a short time to pick up passengers. Tickets cost RMB 110. In Nanning, the 8am bus stops in the Langdong bus terminal while the 9am bus goes to the Nanjiang bus terminal.
There are also boats down the Li River, slower and more expensive (RMB 400+) but a very scenic journey. You may be able to get these for about half that price by joining a tour group.
[edit] Around town
Yangshuo is a small place - the town can easily be covered on foot. There is an electric minibus network consisting 5 routes covering most parts of town. RMB 1 per ride.
The main tourist area is laid out roughly like a ladder. The two main tourist streets run more-or-less parallel up from the river to end at one of the town's larger streets. There are assorted smaller streets (rungs) crossing between the two larger streets. The street (ladder vertical) on the left seen from the River is West Street (西街 Xijie) and is the older more established tourist street, the real center of things. The other long tourist street is Diecuilu (畳翠路).
There's a small creek that runs down the center of the "ladder"; some of the prettiest bars and restaurants in town are on balconies near it. At the "foot of the ladder" by the river is an open area with a large number of vendors hawking all sorts of tourist stuff, both from shops and from handcarts. Also a number of rather nice riverside hotels.
Across the "top of the ladder" is a major street (Pantao Lu) with many hotels. The town's main bus station is at the corner where that main street meets Die Cui Lu. The intersection has a large open area that becomes very busy at night, with dozens of restaurants and hundreds of diners. Do not expect English menus or non-Chinese dishes.
Near the top of West Street are three banks with ATMs — Bank of China, Agricultural Bank and ICBC — and there is a China Construction Bank on Die Cui Lu. Service in the Bank of China can be awful, but it has the only ATM that accepts foreign cards.
The post office is on Pantao Lu, opposite the top end of West Street. It's open from 8am until 9pm.
[edit] Into the countryside
If you're planning on walking around the many streets and caves around Yangshuo, a map is recommended. Artistic tourist maps are available for sale for around RMB 5-10 at tourist shops all over town, but the free maps are better for finding your way.
For those who want to wander a little further afield, or to check the attractions in the area, there are several options.
* The most popular is bike rental - there are several places around the main street catering for short-term rentals charging from RMB 5 upwards.
* There are boat tours up or down the river.
* Local buses serve some locations. From Yangshuo's bus terminal, minibuses (xiao mian bao or "little bread loaves") go to Gaotian (for Yueliang Shan/Moon Hill), Jinbao via Baisha (for Yulong Qiao/Dragon Bridge), Shazhi (for Fuli village), Xingping (for the Xingping-Yangdi scenic area) and further afield.
* It is possible to hire private cars for others.
You can mix these modes of travel, for example taking a boat out of town and biking back or taking a bus upriver a ways to catch a boat tour.
Most hostels or hotels can arrange transport and a guide if you want one. Alternately, you can choose your own tourist guide; just work out a deal with one of the ones who will accost you on the street. A guide may be very helpful for things like cycling tours.
View of Yulong River valley from Yulong Qiao (Yulong Bridge)
[edit] Karst landscape
The area around Yangshuo is renowned throughout China, and probably the world, for its Karst landscape where there are hundreds of limestone hills dotting the countryside. The beautiful scenery here is a common subject of Chinese paintings as well as the inspiration for poetry. There are several popular areas for Karst landscape sight-seeing which can be covered by river cruises, bamboo-raft cruises, cycling, trekking and combinations of the various modes.
* Yangdi-Xingping scenic area:
This stretch along the Li River is probably the most renowned and popular. There are river cruises available and in fact, the Guilin-Yangshuo boat ride passes through this area. There is also a 24km (5 to 6 hours) track for easy hiking along the Li river. The walk is a far more peaceful way to enjoy the Li river and mountain scenery than the loud noisy boat down the river. It takes you along the pebbly shores of the river, through many small villages, fields and bamboo forests. If you get tired, you can always rent a bamboo raft to float down the river. Getting there: There are various ways of reaching this stretch of the Li River. You can of course catch a direct river cruise from Yangshuo town. You can also get to Xingping by minibus (called xiao mian bao or "little bread loaves") from Yangshuo bus terminal, or cycle out there and then take boats or bamboo rafts to reach the scenic area. Again, combinations of the various modes are possible.
* Yulong River valley:
The pretty Yulong River valley is said to rival the Yangdi-Xingping stretch in terms of beauty. Besides rafting down the river on bamboo rafts, another popular way of seeing the valley is by cycling along riverside tracks. The journey will bring you through many farming villages and past several stone bridges across the river such as the Yulong Qiao and Fuli Qiao. Getting there: From Yangshuo town, you can access the Yulong River valley by turning west into a small road from the main Yangshuo bypass road just south of the Sinopec petrol station at the junction of Pantao Lu (there are road signs in Chinese). You can also access it by using the road to Jinbao from Baisha town 9km north of Yangshuo on the main road to Guilin. Minibuses from Yangshuo bus terminal to Jinbao go near Yulong village.
* Moon Hill:
Another popular scenic spot south of town. The main attraction is a hill with a huge hole in the shape of a moon. The hills here can be climbed for spectacular vistas from the top. Getting there: Take a Gaotian minibus Yangshuo bus terminal. If you plan to cycle, Moon Hill is located about 8km south of Yangshuo on the road to Wuzhou.
[edit] Yangshuo town
Many people come to Yangshuo are so preoccupied with the surrounding karst landscape that they do not spend much time in Yangshuo town itself.
[edit] Shows
Impression Liu Sanjie runs nightly during the high season. Set to the music from the movie of the same name (which in turn was based on an old Chinese story), it features a cast of 500 wearing traditional Zhuang, Miao and Yao dress, and a highly impressive light show. By far the best view is from the official seating area. Tickets are available from most travel agents or hotels in town for around 150 RMB. Expensive by Yangshuo standards, but well worth it. You can see it more cheaply from a boat on the river, or even from across the river, but the view is not as good.
There are so many things to do here:
* Bike riding: Wandering through the countryside on a bike and getting lost is one of the best things about Yangshuo. The villages often have dramatic mountain backdrops, and the people are generally friendly. Another popular trip is to take a boat ride with a bike, then bicycle back to town. Bike hire starts at RMB 5 per day, and tandems are a bit more. The bikes tend to be poorly maintained, so be sure to check brakes and gears before you set out. For travellers craving reliability, Bike Asia [1] (on Guihua Rd) has well-maintained Specialized mountain bikes for RMB 30. Bike Asia also has free bike maps of the area, and can advise on where to cycle. Find an older farmer woman for RMB 100 per day to give you a guided tour of the local pathes.
* Rock climbing: Yangshuo has over 250 climbing routes ranging in difficulty from 5.6 to 5.13. There is a lively climbing scene in town, so experienced climbers will have no problem finding a partner, just ask in the climbing places and they should know other climbing travellers you can hook up with. For beginners and climbers travelling without their own equipment several climbing companies (Xclimber, Karst Cafe/Climber, China Climb, Spiderman, etc.) offer equipment rental and one/muli-day trips. A guidebook showing route topos, grades, etc. can be purchased from any of the climbing companies.
o There are three climbing shops on Xianqian Road, the first cross street off West Street as you come up from the river. The other two places are across the street.
o Two more climbing shops are on Guihua Road, Xclimber and blackrock (a right turn then a left turn before the start of West Street).
* Exploring caves, of which there are an abundance in the limestone hills
o guided tours for the general tourist
o serious spelunkers should talk to the climbing shops about possible cave climbs
* Swimming During the summer the water and air temperature are good for swimming. Locals swim from the docks on the Lijiang a short way upstream of the town centre. The Lijiang water quality is generally good but tour boats coming from Guilin are a hazard. The Yulong River is also good for swimming although parts are crowded with bamboo rafts.
* Bamboo rafting Rafting along the Yulong river is particularly popular in summer, but travellers should take care not to go rafting if the water is brown and turbulent. In 2005 there was a fatality during high floods.
* Hot air ballooning Pricey by Chinese standards, hot air balooning in Yangshuo is still a bargain compared to the west.
* Volunteering The Volunteer English Teachers [2] program visits local schools to teach poor children English.
* Martial arts Classes in Taichi, Qigong, Kungfu, Taiquando, and other martial arts are available at the Budizhen school at the top of West Street for 80Y a day. LongTouShan Taichi school [3]offers also Taichi classes in a beautiful spot located in the country side, half an hour walk from West street.
* Chinese cooking Single and multi-day classes in traditional Chinese cooking are offered in the beautiful traditional farmhouse at Yangshuo Cooking School [4], and at Cloud 9. Typical dishes include beer fish and stuffed pumpkin flowers. Yangshuo Cooking School teaches egg-wrapped dumplings, a delicious local treat.
* Cormorant fishing
* Hiking
* River cruises Take a boat down to Liugong village then cycle back, much cheaper than the boat from Guilin.
* Drinking
* Chilling out
Take a hotair balloon trip
There is a huge amount of touristy stuff on offer:
* Pashmina scarves, Cashmere by a different name
* silk products: ties, kimonos, scarves, dresses
* pottery, bronze, stone carvings, bracelets, knickknacks of all sorts
* scroll paintings, fans and embroidered cloths
Much of this stuff is lovely, really very tempting. However, quite a bit of it is fake and nearly all of it is available all over China and cheaper outside of Yangshuo.
Asking prices for such stuff in Yangshuo are horribly inflated. Here is a table showing one traveller's experience:
Item asking price Price paid
elsewhere Yangshuo Yangshuo
silk ties 18-20 75-120 50 RMB for 3
small silk scarves unknown 80-100 20
large scarf/wrap 80 120-200 50
old silver dollars, mostly counterfeit 20 80-150 10
Getting the prices in the right hand column took hard bargaining, based on knowledge of prices elsewhere. Of course, even those may not be the best possible prices.
Some tourists, having no idea of the real Chinese price, might be grossly overcharged. After all, even 120 RMB ($15 US) would be a great price for a nice pure silk tie back home. Advice for tourists who have no idea what the Chinese price should be:
* assume nothing on offer here is worth more than a third of the asking price, and most things quite a bit less
* if you are prepared to haggle, offer about 10% of the asking price and go from there
* if not, offer 20% to 30% and stick to it. Walk away if the vendor will not meet your price.
Also consider the classic mother-to-daughter advice "Men are like buses. You don't chase them because you know there will always be another one along." This applies very much to vendors of tourist goods in Yangshuo; if one is too expensive, or even if you are not sure the price is fair, try another.
See also How to haggle.
[edit] Local goods
There are also a few things not usually available elsewhere:
* Postcards and picture books of the area, in stores or hawked by older women on the street
* Chinese paintings of the local Karst scenery
* T-shirts with Chinese characters with different slogans, such as "I have no money" or "Foreigner coming, Foreigner going"
o Hard Rock Cafe T-shirts are common, but there is no Hard Rock in Yangshuo
o Some places with great names — Red Capitalism Cafe, Outside Inn, Fawlty Towers — do not have T-shirts, unfortunately
* Silver and embroidery pieces by local minorities.
o Prices for large pieces are high, but some pieces may be worth them.
o Small pieces, such as embroided Zhuang minority love balls, are also available
You should also bargain on these, of course.
[edit] Other interesting things
On Die Cui Lu about half a block from the river is Nature House selling various rocks. Some are interesting geological specimens; others are carved and/or painted. Fascinating.
There is a used bookstore and reading room — with a large selection in English and some books in several other European languages — at Cafe Too, formerly on West Street, now in larger space at 7 Cheng Zhong Road. Prices are higher than at used bookstores in Western countries, but cheaper than new books. You can buy coffee and read them free. For people living in China and missing Western books, they have a web site [5] and mail-order service. Owner is Johnny Lu, email johnnylu668@yahoo.com, mobile 13237831208.
CDs and DVDs are available at several stores on West Street or nearby. Nearly all such products in China are unauthorised copies, but many in Yangshuo look real. General quality, especially the packaging, is far better than the usual. Many come with booklets of lyrics or artist biography. Some have full-colour advertising printouts for the label's other offerings; I cannot imagine a "pirate" duplicating that. Selection is also good; the English music is not all Backstreet Boys and the Carpenters. Prices are also higher, 15-25 RMB versus 6 or 8 for the cheap copies all over China.
Yangshuo is a great place to eat. There are dishes from all over the world and just about any region in China. You can eat cheaply in the markets with the locals or you can try comfort food in one of the many cafes in town
* Yangshuo produces very sweet and juicy grapefruit or pomelos (sha tian you), which can be bought everywhere for Y1-2. Ask the vendor to choose one with a small top and cut it up for you.
* Beer fish is a local specialty, something most Chinese tourists try
* Cloud Nine is a popular Chinese place on West Street.
* 7th Heaven Restaurant offers great outdoor seating and views and is located just off West Street on Chenzhong Rd. Western menu.
* 干锅鱼 （Ganguoyu) is a "dry pot" fish restaurant very popular with the locals. It is located beside the pond on Jiefang Lu (between the petrol station and the tunnel).
* 阳朔人 （Yangshuo ren) is a Chinese restaurant very popular with the locals. It specializes in beer fish and other hot pots. It is located on the market street between Sunshine 100 and the 99 supermarket.
* 北方饺子馆 (Beifang Jiaozi Guan) This "northern dumplings" restaurant on Xianqian Jie near the intersection with Die Cui Lu has fantastic North-East Chinese cuisine.
* The night market near the bus station has quite a variety of food, much of it at low prices (although still more expensive than elsewhere in China). They even serve dog, rat, oysters, mussels, rabbit, duck, shrimp, frog, the local mudsnails and a variety of other surprising dishes! Make sure to haggle. WARNING: Take very good care of your belongings - there are some very accomplished sneak thieves and pickpockets specialising in wallets, phones and passports.
[edit] Vegetarian
* Pure Lotus Vegetarian Restaurant 暗香疏影 素菜馆 http://www.yangshuoren.com/purelotus.htm, down near the river end of Die Cie Lu.
[edit] Western food
It seems almost every restaurant in Yangshuo offers burgers, shepherd's pie and a Western breakfast. Many of the staff in these places have reasonable English, a few excellent. Most of the food is quite good. However, there is much menu copying and some places serve rather bizarre impressions of Western dishes as prepared by Chinese chefs without the original recipe.
Among the possibilities:
* Karst cafe, 42 Xianqian Jie (off West Street near the river), climber hangout with the best pizza in town, comfortable sofas, and wireless internet.
* Bar 98, arguably the best location in town, just off West Street, down Guihua Lu (alleyway opposite Marco Polo hotel) overlooking Guihua Well. Wireless internet and a pool table. Run by two Australians, has Aussie meat pies and good burritos.
* Drifters, middle of West Street. Great apple crumble.
* Buffalo Bar, Xianqian Jie, Aussie run, with meat pies and quiz night on Thursdays. Wireless internet and also has a pool table
* Cafe China, on the corner of West Street and Xianqian Jie, great coffee, best cheesecake in town, packed out most nights, wireless internet.
* MC Blues, opposite Karst, great cocktails.
* Green Lotus, 100 West Street, next to Youth Hostel, open 24 hours, friendly staff, good 20 RMB breakfast.
* Cafe del Moon, near center of West Street, 32 RMB all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet; ghastly croissants but the rest is OK.
* Red Star Express, in a big new location a bit off West Street. Turnoffs from both West Street and Xianqian Jie are marked with a flag showing a Red Star. Excellent burritos and enchiladas.
* Cafe Too, 7 Cheng Zhong Road, has English books to read
* Kelly's Cafe, just off the main strip has great service and food, cheap beer. Foreigners living in Yangshuo often hang out here.
* Kaya is a reggae bar, often has good live music (with open mic) and very laidback atmosphere. On Guihua Lu, north of Kelly's and 98.
Several of these offer free Internet access, but generally only have one machine so you may have to wait a bit.
Considering its size, Yangshuo has a pretty boisterous nightlife. Most restaurants along the main street stay open late and serve alcohol. Several have live music.
* Cafe le Votre, set back from the street with a courtyard in front, is a brew pub with its own beer. They have two brews, a wheat beer and a dark beer; both are rare finds in China. They also have French and Chinese food. Their courtyard is a great place for people-watching, but unfortunately it is also convenient for touts to find you.
* Monkey Jane's Rooftop Bar offers panaramic views of Yangshuo, and is pefect for meeting other backpackers. It is set back from West Street up an alley near the river end, but is sign-posted.
There are also several clubs located near the bus terminal, which sometimes stay open until 5 or 6 A.M. and other nights are shut by midnight. There doesn't seem to be a method to their hours, save going down and seeing if they're open. There should be no cover, and frequently there's an opportunity to see young PLA soliders from the nearby base in a decidely un-military context.
As with Guilin, the local drink is Guilin Three-flower Wine, although most residents seem to prefer a glass of Tsingtao or Baijiu.
* Cooking school Learn to make several typical local dishes at the Yangshuo Cooking School. Classes involve a trip to a local market to buy ingredients, individual woks as you go step-by-step through preparation of the various dishes, and a meal at the end, all in a rustic setting at the Outside Inn. Classes must be booked a day in advance.
* Kungfu, offerred at the Green Lotus on West Street
* Tai Chi
* Calligraphy
* Chinese
There are many places to stay - from Y20/night for a dorm room, through to US$100/night for a luxury bungalow. Hotel touts are to be found around the main bus station.
* Youth Hostel next to Green Lotus, 102 West Street, phone +86-773-8820933, email hostel-ys@163.com
* Backpackers' Hostel, just off West Street
* Moon Resort [6] in MoonHill village in front of the mountain, phone +86-773-8777688, email moon.resort@gmail.com
* Xi Jie House Inn behind the Industrial and Commercial Bank on PanTao road is to be avoided
[edit] Mid range
* Fawlty Towers [7], on the main street opposite the bus station, 50 RMB/night for private room with shower in off season. Decent rooms, helpful staff.
* Blue Lotus, near middle of West Street, 60 RMB/night for single with shower, TV, western toilet
* Friend Hotel No. 2 Chenzhong Lu, just off West Street (coming down West Street from Pantao Lu, turn left into Chenzhong Lu and cross the bridge over the creek. The hotel is the second establishment on the right). Tel: +86-773-8828696, +86-13807735906. Clean and just far away from West Street to be quiet. Staff are friendly. Twin/Double cost RMB 80-120/night off season. Rooms with western toilet and hot water shower.
* Karst Hotel [8]
* Li River View
* MorningSun Hotel [9] No. 4, Chenzhong Lu (next to Friend Hotel. For directions, see above). Tel: +86-773-8813899.
* Outside Inn [10], restored farmhouse 5 km from town, 80-120 RMB/night
* Sihai Hotel [11], 73 West Street
* Water Buffalo Guesthouse [12]
* White Lion, on West Street
* Yangshuo Culture House [13], a little outside of town, offers three meals cooked a day, classes and a homestay experience for 60 RMB a night, shared room with double beds.
* Yangshuo Mountain Retreat, a hidden gem just outside of town. China expat favorite, incredible views[14]
* Magnolia Hotel, 7 Die Cui Lu (a block from the river and west street), [15], very clean with nice big rooms, tastfully decorated.
* Regency Holiday Hotel, at the inland end of West Street, phone 86-773-8817200. Satellite TV and air conditioning.
* Li River Retreat, Best views of any hotel in Yangshuo and with great rooms[16]
* Hotel of Modern Art, Approximately 30 minutes drive from Yangshuo this hotel is set inside Yuzi Paradise, a park full of stunning modern art in a remote rural location. [17]
Because Yangshuo is so dependent on backpacking tourists, you'll find a range of services and agencies not commonly found in China. There are ample places that sell plane tickets to all other provincal capitals and some international destinations. There are also bus and sleeper bus services available towards Hong Kong, Shenzhen, Guangzhou, and Kunming. Train tickets -- which will depart from Guilin -- are also available. There are tickets available all the way to Hanoi in Vietnam. These aren't easily available elsewhere, and can save quite a bit of hassle at the China/Vietnam border. Vietnamese visas, however, take several days to obtain in Yangshuo and are necessary, so be careful before you buy.
written by  garisti on May 1, 2008 from Yangshuo, China

Guilin, China
Guilin (桂林) is a city in Guangxi, China.
Looking down from Diecai Shan
Guilin has become more of a new residential construction area and small manufacturing area than a tourist destination over the past few years, except for the river and city-moat/artificial lake area in the center of town. Guilin itself is pretty enough, but from the tourist point of view the main reason for going to Guilin is to get to Yangshuo, the even more scenic town downriver.
Apparently it was a strong communist stronghold during the revolution and even had more residents back then, but recently the population may have increased. There are several non-Han cultural groups in this area.
There are daily flights to Guilin Liangjiang International Airport (KWL) from Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou (RMB 660 one-way before taxes and service charges as of Nov 2006), Hong Kong, Macau, Bangkok, Hangzhou, Chengdu, Chongqing, Kunming, etc.
Guilin has two train stations. Guilin station (Guilin Zhan) is in the centre of town on Zhongshan Nanlu while Guilin North station (Guilin Bei Zhan) is far away from downtown area. Most, but not all, trains which originate/terminate in Guilin go to or come from Guilin North while trains which come through Guilin from elsewhere usually only go to Guilin station and not Guilin North.
There are trains from North (Beijing, Changsha, Wuhan, Shanghai, Xian), West (Kunming), South (Liuzhou, Nanning, Zhanjiang), and East (Guangzhou, Shenzhen).
To/from Beijing: If for some reason you need to rush from Beijing to Guilin or vice-versa, three trains on either direction. To Beijing, trains depart from Guilin (not Guilin Bei) at 0059 (train from Zhanjiang), 1506 (from Nanning) and 1930. Journey time is between 22 hour to 30 hours, with the 1506 train being the fastest.
To/from Guangzhou and Shenzhen: Two trains to Guangzhou daily, leaving at 1804 (from Liuzhou) and 2000. The latter goes all the way to Shenzhen.
To/from Kunming: The fastest trains to/from Kunming are those which go via Nanning and the scenic Nankun railway, taking around 20 hours. Those going via Guiyang take at least 28 hours. To Kunming, trains depart Guilin at 0546 (from Zhengzhou via Guiyang), 0852 (via Nanning), 1334 (from Nanjing via Guiyang) and 1900 (from Shanghai via Nanning).
To/from Nanning: There are around 10 trains to choose from if coming from Nanning (5 to 6 hours). From Guilin (not Guilin Bei) to Nanning, trains depart at 0013 (train from Xian), 0622 (from Nanchang), 0748, 0809 (train from Zhengzhou), 0826, 0852 (train to Kunming), 1436 (train from Beijing), 1613 (from Wuxi), 1605, 1900 (from Shanghai to Kunming). The fastest train is the 0826, taking just 5 hours. All these trains stop at Liuzhou (2 hours from Guilin). One way hard seat ticket cost RMB 65.
There are some expressways locally and in the province, but to any distance it is a 2 lane road.
* To/from Yangshuo
o Minibuses (RMB 10) depart when full from the square in front of the Guilin railway station. Although the signs are written in Chinese, there are always conductors yelling out "Yangshuo". As the buses pick-up and let down passengers along the way, the journey time can take anything from one to one-half hours.
o Express buses (RMB 15) depart from the Xiangzhou (Guilin) bus terminal off Zhongshan Nanlu, several hundred metres north of the railway station (and on the same side of the road as the station). Buses depart about every half hour from 0700. Buy tickets from counters in the bus terminal.
* To/from elsewhere
Buses link Guilin with a multitude of destinations, including Nanning, Kunming, Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Zhuhai and further afield. Buses depart from the Xiangzhou (Guilin) bus terminal on Zhongshan Nanlu, several hundred metres north of the railway station.
You can get to Guilin by cargo boat from Guangzhou to Wuzhou and Than Guilin. But there are no passenger boats to Guilin anymore. There are boats to Yangshuo.
Guilin itself is like most other medium size Chinese cities, other than it has a large amount of western-style hotels and tourists. Many Chinese domestic tourists also flock to this area. What makes it special is its proximity to many picturesque limestone mountains and formations.
Most travellers to this area will take a river trip down the Li River on tourboats. These boats are frequent and easily organised by any hotel in Guilin. Most will go from Guilin to Yangshuo (a very picturesque village downstream). The river winds through some truly spectacular limestone formations and a slow boat trip there and back (with a stop in Yangshuo) will take a whole day.
A boat ride around the main attractions is now available at night (approx Y200). Everything is lit up by neon lights, and the boat traverses the waterways joining the main attractions. It's a bit eerie to see limestone lit up in bright blue and green, but this is quite popular with Chinese tourists.
Getting a local map from a tourist guide or shop is a good idea. Many city parks and river spots can be accessed easily by bus. There are limestone caves and even a Buddhist temple and bulk-banana storage site in caves near 7 star park if you know how to find them. Many peaks have trails to the top or to a hole or cave-like spot. There are many good restaurants and some art shops.
All the buses starting with 5# are free. A useful one is bus no.58 which runs from the train station (& bus station) to many of the attractions. The entrance fees to the attractions are now fairly exorbitant, but it's still worth checking out one or two that take your fancy.
traditional landscape painting, osmanthus tea.
The local delicacy is Guilin Rice Noodles (Gui Lin Mi Fen), also available as stir-fried (Chao Fen). This is served everywhere, but try to avoid the joints near the train station. Traditionally the noodle and the topping is first eaten without soup, and once the topping has run out there is usually a pot of soup to add flavour to the rest of your noodles. There are also various pickles and condiments that you can add to your noodles.
A local snack is "Horse hoof cake" (Ma Ti Gao), which is a crumbly cake stuffed with red beans filling. Another delicious breakfast item is sweet tofu infused with a certain flower. Look for roadside vendors adding orange-coloured liquid to a steaming hot bag of tofu, which you then drink with a straw.
* Rosemary Cafe, Good coffee and western food. Located in the pedestrianized area near Jiefang Qiao.
Liq beer and osmanthus tea
There is a international YHA across the road from the main train station, which has clean dorm rooms for Y40. Http://www.yhaguilin.com
* Da Pubu Dajiudian (Big Waterfall Hotel), The most ostentatious place to stay in Guilin, it features a man-made waterfall.
* Sheraton Hotel
* Hotel of Modern Art, Approximately 30 minutes drive from Guilin this hotel is set inside Yuzi Paradise, a park full of stunning modern art in a remote rural location.
* Watch your pockets in the central city.
* Also, be careful with the beggar children in the city parks as there are rumours of them claiming assault if you do not buy flowers from them. The parents apparently act as "witnesses" to the assault.
It is well worth heading straight out of Guilin as soon as you arrive, and staying in the much friendlier and more picturesque town of Yangshuo.
Taxis can easily be hired from the airport that will take you straight there (around 90 mins drive depending on traffic), or if you arrive in Guilin by train you can take a taxi from there, or go across to the buses across the square from the station's main entrance. The bus fare should be around Y10 per person. There are also boats going to Yangshou.
written by  garisti on May 1, 2008 from Guilin, China

Nanning, China
Nanning (南宁; Nánníng) is the capital of Guangxi in south-west China. It is a huge, modern city and a transport gateway for travellers to and from Vietnam.
Nanning has an airport serving both domestic and international flights, though the latter feature only a few destinations on a non-daily basis. But there are plans to have the Nanning-Ho Chi Ming city and Nanning-Bangkok direct flights in the near future. Since Nanning city is the gateway of China to southeast asian countries, the local government put a lot of emphasis on connecting Nanning to capitals of every Southeast asian country. Getting there: There is a shuttle bus every half hour to/from Chaoyang Lu in front of the Minhang (CAAC) Hotel and next to the Yinhe Hotel close to the railway station. RMB 15 per person. 45 minutes.
You can also take a taxi. As of March 2006, a taxi will run you for about 75 RMB. If you're going to the city center or close by, don't let them charge you more. Have them use the meter.
The railway station is at the northern end of Chaoyang Lu just north of the city center.
To Departure Price (Yuan) Duration (h) Last update
Pingxiang (Border to Vietnam) 7:58 30.00 3.5 30 June 2005
Nanning has two major bus terminals.
* Langdong bus terminal is on Minzu Dadao to the east of the city centre amongst all the new skyscrapers.
* Jiangnan bus terminal is on Xingguang Dadao way south of the city center. Buses to the south, Pingxiang near the Vietnam border, and Yangshuo (via Guilin) operate from Jiangnan. Getting there/away: Bus 41 (RMB 2, 20min journey) connects Jiangnan to Chaoyang Lu in the city centre. Catch them from the square in front of the terminal. Alternatively a taxi will take you for approx. RMB 5-Y10.
Though the older people speak Cantonese (GuanDongMa), the younger generation speak Mandarin (PuTongHua) mainly. It's regarded as one of the most sucessful city in China in terms of popularizing Mandarin or 'common language'. So, it's a very good place to learn PuTongHua for foreigners. Universities offering Chinese courses are many, including Guangxi University for Nationalities, Guangxi University and so on.
Rembering with Mandarin there are 4 tones: flat, up, down-up and down; which are characterised by -,/,v,\ or 1,2,3,4. So for example to say Mandarin or PuTongHua it is really Pŭ Tōng Hùa or Pu3 Tong1 Hua4. Please note Pu1 Tong1 Hua1 means something completely different!
See also: [Chinese Language[1]]
As a provincial capital, Nanning has a lot of working oppotunities compared to other cities of Guangxi region. The booming import and export business exchanges between Guangxi and Vietnam means that there is a big demand for people who can speak both Chinese and Vietnamese.Also, if you are a native English speaker, teaching jobs are also abundant.
Around the square in front of the station, there are several hotels offering bargains for rooms and dormbeds starting at RMB 15.
* Yingbing Hotel, (directly infront of railway station, on the right side of Chaoyang Lu if looking away from station). Excels with English-speaking staff 24 hour on duty and a comprehensive list of train and bus connections.
* Yin He Hotel, 84 Chaoyang Lu (right in the centre of town just south of the railway station and next to airport bus terminal). Tel: 86-771-2116688. Fax: 86-771-2420303. Conveniently located near the railway station, airport bus terminal, CAAC office, Langdong bus terminal ticketing office and other amenities. Some rooms newly renovated. Rooms from RMB 388, better ones from RMB 470.
* Jinyue Hotel, 59 Xinmin Lu (about 20 minutes walk or 10 minutes by taxi from the railway station, 10 minutes from Chaoyang Square. Access to hotel is from a ramp from Minzhu Lu opposite post office). Oldish business hotel with recently upgraded rooms in 2006. Clean and comfortable rooms, all with bath, telephone and TV. Rooms from RMB 388.
Chinese cities are generally speaking very safe and Nanning is no exception. But petty robberies are quite common. On buses, it's advisable to be extra-careful about your mobilephones, wallets and so on.
Vietnamese Consulate: The consulate issues Visas for Vietnam. Regular service takes 14(!) workdays, but you can opt for express service (600 yuan), in which case you can retrieve your passport and visa at 18:00 in the evening. Address:
Ground floor, Touzi Dasha, 109 Minzu Dadao, Nanning.
You can either take a taxi there (ca. 15 yuan one way) or the local bus (1.2 yuan one way): Bus number 6 bound away from the railway-station; get off at the second stop after you crossed a big bridge. The consulate is in the first really high building you can see on the left hand side when crossing the bridge. (June 2005)
There is a train to Kunming, reportedly a sensational ride through isolated mountainous country.
The famously scenic tourist area around Guilin and Yangshou is only a short distance from Nanning.
written by  garisti on May 1, 2008 from Nanning, China

Hanoi, Vietnam
Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam, is a fascinating blend of East and West, with Chinese influence from centuries of dominance, and French design from its colonial past. It is largely unspoiled by modern architecture of the 1970s and 80s, and is now going through a modernization that is making it a rising star in Southeast Asia.
Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam, and hosts many government institutions, museums and memorials. It retains much of its older colonial charm even though it was in conflicts during most of the worldwide modern architecture movement. For that reason, few buildings in the city center area are higher than five stories.
The Tourist Information Center - tel: (84-4) 926 3366 - on Dinh Tien Hoang, just north of Hoan Kiem Lake, can provide a fairly useful map (bewilderingly, the blow-up of the old town is missing making it useless in that part of town) and other English-language advice, as well as limited free Internet. They aren't completely without bias, however, and seem to support certain companies, for example An Phu Tour (bus company).
Departure tax
As of November 2006, international departure taxes should be included in the price of your ticket, but that doesn't necessarily mean they will be - check with the airline to be absolutely sure. If not, the tax (sometimes called "passenger service charge") is payable in US dollars (US$14) or in dong.
Most folks arrive at the Noi Bai International Airport, 35 km (45-60 minutes) north of the city. Several airlines run flights from Noi Bai, including:
* Vietnam Airlines - 25 Tràng Thi (corner of Quang Trung) tel: (84-4)9349660 fax: (84-4)9349620[1]. The primary national carrier.
* AirAsia (tel: +603 8660 4343) [2]. Low-cost airline with daily flights to Hanoi from both Bangkok in Thailand and Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia.
* Cathay Pacific [3]. Upscale airline with flights to Hong Kong.
* Hong Kong Airlines [4]. New carrier with daily flights to/from Hong Kong.
* Lao Airlines [5]. Small airline with 4 flights a week to/from Luang Prabang in Lao.
* Pacific Airlines (tel: 84-4 9550550) [6]. Newer, discount Vietnamese carrier.
* Tiger Airways (tel: 84-4 9454565) [7]. Low-cost airline with daily flights to/from Singapore.
[edit] From the airport
* Taxis to downtown Hanoi can be hired at Noi Bai. The driver may try to deliver you to a hotel of his choice so he can collect a commission, but if you are specific about your destination, they usually give in. Taxis from the city centre to Noi Bai Airport charge a fixed rate of about US$10.
* Public buses to the city center from Noi Bai airport charge 5000 dong and take about an hour. Bus #07 crosses the Thang Long bridge and goes to the Daewoo Hotel on the western part of Hanoi. Bus #17 crosses the Chuong Duong bridge and goes close to the old quarter.
* Shuttle-buses to the airport depart from opposite the Vietnam Airlines Office on Quang Trung (see below). Tickets cost ~US$2 and are sold in the building in front of which the minibuses park. From the airport, the fare is US$4.
Trains arrive at the main Hanoi train station (Ga Hang Co, 120 Le Duan, tel: 825 3949) daily from cities in the south including Hue and Nha Trang. The Reunification Express goes all the way to Ho Chi Minh City, although there is very little 'express' about it.
There are train services to the north-west (including Lao Cai, from which you reach Sapa - the onward route to Kunming in China is no longer open). To board trains bound for these destinations, you have to enter the railway station compound through the "backdoor" at Tran Quy Cap station. Just tell your driver which destination your train is heading to.
However, tickets for all destinations are sold in the main station, though there are two counter halls, north and south, serving the respective destinations. Buy your tickets as early as possible, since especially sleeper-tickets can be sold out several days in advance. If you can't get a ticket anymore, try a travel-agent who still might have stocks. You may also try your luck in the station just before boarding time, agents still holding tickets will be eager to sell as the departure draws near.
Most of the "open-tour" bus itineraries either begin or end in Hanoi, with Hue the next (or previous) stop (12-14 hours, US$8-9), and from there to Hoi An, Nha Trang, Dalat, Mui Ne, Ho Chi Minh City, and other cities in Vietnam, depending on the bus company.
Many of the same companies also sell tickets to Vientiane and Savannakhet in Laos (US$16-18), but do some research before you buy a ticket - rattle-trap scam buses abound on this route.
Hanoi traffic and commerce
Taxis are the best way to travel long distances, but the cyclos, or pedicabs, are a cheap and fun way to make shorter trips. Taxi fares are not always consistent, though. There are several different cab companies, and each has different starting fares and per kilometer rates. For lone travelers, rides on the back of motorbikes (actually low-powered scooters known as xe om) are popular too.
Some meter taxi owners in Hanoi will attempt to negotiate a flat fee in advance rather than use the meter. Unless you are familiar with distances and fares in the city, it is probably safer to insist on using the meter. If the driver refuses, turning around and walking away will almost certainly change his mind! Don't sweat it, it's all part of the expected negotiation protocol.
Motorbike drivers can be found on virtually every corner, especially in the Old Quarter. Even if it is not their usual job, a quick dollar can be made taking tourists around to and from the sights, so be expected to be offered a ride every half-block or so. Negotiate a fare in advance, and again, turn around and walk away if you don't like their offer. There are far more drivers than tourists, and they know it - your fare could be the only one they get all day. You might want to write down the negotiated fare to avoid confusion. Even if you do speak Vietnamese, a driver might pretend that you said 50,000 dong instead of 15,000! A typical 10 minute fare should cost no more than 15,000-20,000 dong. Many drivers will accept US dollars as well.
Motorcycles can be rented for around US$5-6 a day, and can be arranged by most hotels. This is good for making lots of trips around the city for individuals or duos, but be careful: Hanoi traffic is very difficult place to sharpen motorbike skills. Park on the sidewalk with other bikes, and be sure to lock the front wheel. Locals will help arrange the bikes near their stores.
[edit] Museums
* Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum (Open mornings only, 8-11am; closed afternoons, Mondays, and Fridays. Admission free.) The city down south may have his name, but only Hanoi has the man himself, entombed in distinctly Lenin-esque fashion - against his wishes, but that's how it goes. No talking, short pants, or other signs of disrespect allowed while viewing; photos are allowed only from outside, in the grand Ba Dinh Square. Purses are allowed into the tomb, but expect them to be searched by several bored soldiers along the way. Left luggage is handled in a complicated scheme: there is an office near the street for large bags, with separate windows for Vietnamese and foreigners, and a further office for cameras, which will be transported to a third office right outside the exit of the mausoleum. Items checked in at the first office, however, will stay there. Note that the mausoleum is closed for a couple months around the end of the year, when the body is taken overseas for maintenance.
Gone bananas at the Ho Chi Minh Museum
* Ho Chi Minh Museum (19 Ngoc Ha St., Ba Dinh, Hanoi; tel. +84-4 846-3572, fax +84-4 843-9837; Open 8-11:30am, 2-4pm, closed Monday and Friday afternoons. Admission 15,000 dong.) bthochiminh@hn.vnn.vn Right around the corner, this gleaming white museum and its gloriously ham-handed iconography are the perfect chaser to the solemnity of the mausoleum. The building, completed in 1990, is intended to evoke a white lotus. Some photos and old letters are on display on the second floor, but the main exhibition space is on the third floor. Guards won't allow photos of the giant bronze Ho Chi Minh statue at the top of the stairs, but tend not to care about photos of the rest of the exhibits, which include cars crashing through walls to represent the chaos of post-war American capitalism, soldiers charging around with electric plugs, and a cave hideout re-imagined as the inside of Ho Chi Minh's brain. Guides are available in English, French, Chinese and Russian, but don't bother; the displays are labeled in English and French, and it's hard to imagine the guides doing much other than belaboring the point.
* Ho Chi Minh's Vestige In The Presidential Palace Area (No.1 Bach Thao, Ba Dinh, Hanoi; tel. +84 08044529, fax +84 08043064. Open 7:30-11am, 2-4pm in the summer, and 8-11am, 1:30-4pm in the winter. Closed Monday and Friday afternoons. Admission 15,000 dong.) The exit from the mausoleum takes you right into the grounds of the, uh, vestige, where Ho Chi Minh lived and worked from 1954 until his death in 1969. The nicely landscaped complex includes two of Ho Chi Minh's houses, kept shiny and "as he left them" by the authorities, as well as a garage with two of Ho's cars and a carp-filled pond. The Presidential Palace is also nearby, but it's not always open to visitors. Pamphlets are available in English, Chinese, French, and Korean. Guided tours are usually available if you wait.
* One-Pillar Pagoda. Tucked away between the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Museum. Travelers find the One-Pillar Pagoda either charming and lovely or utterly pointless, depending on how many tour groups are crammed into the small grounds at the time of their visit. Either way, it's free.
* Fine Arts Museum (Bảo Tàng Mỹ Thuật), 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street.
* Temple of Literature (Văn Miếu) (On Quoc Tu Giam St., south of the Mausoleum. Admission 5,000 dong.) The Temple of Literature was founded in 1070 and established as the country's first university six years later. The courtyard features numerous stone tablets, each mounted on the back of a tortoise, with the names of graduates.
* Army Museum (Bảo Tàng Quân Đội), Dien Bien Phu Street. Vietnam's military history extends back some two millennia, and this museum covers it. On display outside are the ubiquitous MiG-21 jet fighter and T-54 tank.
* Air Force Museum (Bảo Tàng Không Quân), Truong Chinh Street (Southwest of center). There's a decent outdoor collection of Soviet-built MiG fighters, a huge Mi-6 helicopter, and other aircraft; unfortunately they've been exposed to the elements for some time and local kids climb over them.
[edit] Parks
Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi
* Hoan Kiem Lake is a pleasant park in the center of town, within easy walking distance from anywhere in the Old Quarter. It's the locals' favorite leisure spot, and a great place to watch early-morning tai chi or sit and read in the afternoon. Hoan Kiem means "returned sword", and the name comes from a legend in which King Le Loi was given a magical sword by the gods, which he used to drive out the invading Chinese. Later, while boating on the lake, he encountered a giant turtle, who grabbed the sword and carried it down to the depths, returning it to the gods from whom it had come. (You can see a version of the legend at the Water Puppet Theater - see below.) The giant turtles reportedly still inhabit the lake, and were last seen in 2002.
o Ngoc Son Temple (admission 2,000 dong) extends out into the lake, with small but attractive grounds, displays on Vietnamese history and, more memorably, displays on the giant turtles, including a mummified specimen.
* Ho Tay, or "West Lake", is northwest of the city, and has become a popular site for gaudy villas owned by the well-to-do.
[edit] Wartime sites
* Hoa Lo Prison ("The Hanoi Hilton"), Hai Ba Trung Street. Originally built by the French and later used to hold captured U.S. airmen, little remains of the structure besides the "Maison Centrale" gate and a small museum. Most of it has made way for a new high-rise building, though it's not the new, real Hilton hotel - even for Vietnam that would be a bit too ironic.
* B-52 Lake. Until December 19, 1972, this was just a small brackish pond just off Hoang Hoa Tam Street, about 1 km west of the mausoleum. On that day, in a twisted retelling of the Hoan Kiem legend (see above), Vietnamese anti-aircraft guns (possibly with the help of flying turtles) retook the enemy's eight-engined, 100-ton sword and sent it, too, to the shallow bottom of the lake, where it remains today.
* Downed Aircraft Memorial. Along Thanh Nien Street on Truc Bach lake there is a stone plaque commemorating the shooting down of a U.S. Navy (not "USAF" as depicted) aircraft in 1967. Peruse the Vietnamese script and you can pick out the name of John McCain, one of the airmen.
[edit] Theatre
* Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre (57 Dinh Tien Hoang St., across the street from the shores of the Hoan Kiem Lake; tel. +84-4-824-9494, fax +84.4.824-5117) [8]. A visit to the water puppet theater is a real highlight of a trip to Hanoi. Live musicians accompany folk legends from Vietnamese history, told with wooden men, women and dragons, dancing and splashing on the face of the water. The narratives are sung in Vietnamese, but a list of titles is available in several languages. Tickets are 20,000/40,000 dong. There are several performances throughout the day, but it's virtually impossible to buy tickets for the same day, and most performances for the following day will be sold out as well. Camera passes are an extra 15,000 dong, but whether you buy one or not is purely on the honor system. Don't worry about getting wet, but the seats are very small, and visitors with above-average height will have to squirm a bit.
If you're the adventurous type or simply bored temporarily of the city atmosphere, then consider a cruise in the northern countryside. A round trip will bring you to a lot of charming villages and through hills and valleys with stunning nature. Main roads are generally in good condition and you can easily do a couple of hundred kilometers a day. The villages and provinces are generally safe at night, and you get to see a lot of Vietnamese culture such as various tribe folks. While bus services are in fact available (albeit not always reliable), a recommended alternative is to rent a bike or car and make the trip on your own. Motorbikes in decent quality can be rented for as little as US$5 a day, and many places have suggestions for routes.
Hanoi is a shoppers paradise for silk, lacquerware, wood, custom tailoring and other Asian inspired design. The bargains are among the best in Asia. Artisans and craftsmen have set up shop in the Old Quarter for generations, and each street is named after the item traditionally sold there. Among the more interesting sights are the streets close to the lake full of nothing but stores overflowing with wave upon wave of white shoes, and a few shops offering to custom-carve black marble tombstones (complete with portrait) for anyone passing by.
In the quarter between Hoan Kiem Lake and the Cathedral, you'll find numerous shops with the same selection but of better quality. Vendors know that, so prices are higher than in the Old Quarter. Shops can sometimes arrange shipment to overseas destinations, and even with the added costs you'll still have a bargain.
There are two major shopping malls in Hanoi, Trang Tien Plaza and the new-built Vincom City Towers. Both are located in the Hoan Kiem District.
A local delicacy in the Hanoi area is dog meat (thịt chó), which is especially popular in the winter. There are a number of restaurants along the Red River that specialize in it. Another exotic regional taste is ca cuong, an extract from the belostomatid, or giant water bug. Just a few drops are added to noodles for the unique aroma.
On Tô Tich, a small street connecting Hang Quat and Hang Gai, you can help yourself to a refreshing fruit milkshake (sinh tố) at one of the stalls (~7000 dong).
You can also try BBQ pork (slice) in soup with vermicelli and lots of vegi at DAC KIM (24, Hang Ga, Hoen Kiem, Hanoi; open 8am-8pm). They serve spring rolls too.
Look to the Old Quarter for atmospheric street stalls and reasonably priced Western fare.
* Huy Café & Pizza Inn (32 Dinh Liet Street) offers a large Italian dinner combo (garlic bread, soup/salad, pizza/pasta, drink) for only 65,000 dong.
* Papa Joe's Coffee (112 Cau Go, tel. +84 926-2544; open 8am-11pm) Despite the name, this is actually a full-on restaurant, with pasta, soup, salads, sandwiches, and pretty good burgers (vegetarian included). Drinks and desserts are also on hand. Entrees are 45-65,000 dong. The best reason to eat here, though, is the view over the frantic traffic square and the shores of the Hoan Kiem Lake below.
* Cha Ca La Vong (14 Cha Ca Street, also 107 Nguyen Truong To Street) - this establishment is so famous, the street is named after it, instead of the other way around. There's only one dish on the menu, fried fish, but they've been serving it for five generations.
* Hapro, a Vietnamese vodka company, maintains two locations on the southwest corner of Hoan Kiem lake; the indoor location has free wi-fi Internet access.
* Little Hanoi - basically Western food with some Vietnamese food.
* Little Hanoi 2 is very good for Western breakfasts and sandwiches.
* Moka Café
* Tamarind Café (Ma May 80, Old Quarter; tel. +84 4 926-0580) [9] Has a menu full of inventive vegetarian dishes, lots of fresh juices, and a relaxed, stylish interior. Don't come here if you're ravenous and out to fill your belly, though, as the portions aren't very big, and it's a tad pricey.
* La Salsa (near the church in old town) - French food and ex-pat hang-out.
* Paris Deli (near St Joseph's Catheral)offers delicious Italian meal (pasta, pizza, bread, soup etc.)
* The Press Club Restaurant
Bia Hơi is abundant in the streets of the Old Quarter. At the crossing of Ta Hien and Luong Ngoc Quyen five separate venues fill up with travelers in the evenings, but you can get more local atmosphere on some of the side streets.
* Bar Barracuda, To 4A, Phuc Tan, (04)9323244 hanoi_barracuda@hotmail.com is reportedly the most fashionable ex-pat hang-out, with live music, a beer garden, sports bar and dancing area.
* Culi Café, 40 Lương Ngọc Quyến, (84-04)9262241 culicafe@wideeyedtours.com [10] - for the feeling you haven't left your hometown or just need a break from Bia Hoi, this Kiwi-run bar might be the answer. Air-con lounge upstairs, with wireless connections, sports occasionally screened in the bar downstairs. The same bar also runs a travel agency.
* Green Lake (Ho Guom Xanh) 32 Le Thai To, is a crowded bar with weekly performances by popular local singers. A place for the definitive Vietnamese entertainment scene.
* Le Maquis is a small bar on the norther end of Ta Hien. It's more like a loud rock music binge and smoke pub than a stylish lounge, but there's usually a happy crowd until late and the place has an authentic feel.
Hanoi hotel scams
Although most of the hotels in Hanoi are helpful and trustworthy, there are still some scam artists around. Touts will try to lure you into a hotel. If you decide to go, be sure to have them pay the transport, and don't hesitate to leave if you do not like the place. Also, do not believe anybody other than the front desk clerk if they tell you that a certain hotel is "full". They'd rather take you to a place that pays them a commission. Any hotel will be keen to have you book a Ha Long Bay trip through them, but wait a day to judge the quality of service you're receiving there - that'll give you some idea of what kind of travel agency they intend to pass you off to.
Be aware that unscrupulous hotels will promise deals that are poorly explained until check-out - for example, "daily free water and fruit" that is only free on the first day. In the Old Quarter, Thien Tan Hotel, Old Street Hotel and Ocean Star Hotel indulge in this scam, so avoid them. If you've booked into a rotten hotel and you're planning to leave, don't be shy about taking photos of the minibar right before you leave, lest a few bottles go missing while the staff are "checking" your room. Also, ask explicitly whether tax is included in your room rate. Better hotels will include the tax, but scam-havens like the Old Street Hotel see it as an opportunity to squeeze an extra dollar or two out of you.
With the overwhelming amount of motorbike traffic and the common rule to honk a few times before even considering the brakes, it is wise to check your hotel room's location before taking it. Having a room on the street side means being exposed to the honking which doesn't end till 1 AM and starts again around 5 AM. If you go more upmarket, chances are there will be sound-proof glass, but it is still wise to check first.
The Old Quarter is littered with guesthouses and hostels catering for budget travelers.
* Real Darling Café Guesthouse, 33 Hang Quat, Old Quarter (2 minutes walk from the north side of Hoan Kiem Lake) tel: +84 4 826 9386 fax: +84 4 824 3468 darling_cafe@hotmail.com has basic but cheap rooms (US$6+, dorm beds US$3/night, long stayers can get lower rates) with fan, hot showers and optional air-con; there's a steep climb up to all the rooms. Helpful and friendly staff; the café on the ground floor does a good breakfast; they run a cheap and fair travel agency downstairs that doesn't try to rip you off; bicycles and motorbikes for rent. Keep an eye out for construction on Hang Quat (Fan Street), though.
* Wing Hotel, 23 Hang Non, Old Quarter, not far from Real Darling, the Wing Hotel has clean rooms, friendly and professional staff and a book exchange. Breakfast is available. Some rooms have balconies overlooking the street. A double can cost as low as 160,000 dong, although the standard price is 192,000.
* Thang Long Opera Hotels (formerly Thuy Tien Hotel) - only three minutes to Hanoi Opera House and five minutes walk from the Hoan Kiem Lake or Hanoi Old Quarter.
* Continental Hotel - 24, Hang Vai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi [11] Boutique-style hotel, has clean and spacious rooms; Hotel staffs are courteous, friendly and warm. Walking distance to Hoan Kiem Late, easy access to restaurants and shops. (around US$24 for a single room, US$28 for twin sharing, incl bf and taxes)
* Green Park Hotel - overlooking the immense green of the biggest park of the city and along the vicinity of Thien Quang Lake. Its architectural design combines the 19th century French assembly with modern Vietnamese concepts.
* Hanoi Elegance Hotel, No 85 Ma May Str & No 8 Hang Bac Str., tel: +84 4 9263451, fax:+84 4 9263452, info@hanoielegancehotel.com [12] is in a street in the Old Quarter that thanks to a curb doesn't see as much through-traffic and thus is quieter than most. The newly built boutique hotel offers luxury accommodation in elegant settings with modern facilities & amenities served by professional staff. Rooms US$28-70 with TV, fan, air-con, hot shower, bathtub or Jacuzzi and optional breakfast. In-room computer with Internet access is free of charge. The friendly staff can help with arranging tours etc.
* Huyen Trang Hotel - one of the most beautiful 2 star hotels in the city, next to Hoan Kiem Lake.
* Majestic Salute Hotel - in the Old Quarter, a newly built boutique hotel with marvelous French architecture.
* Quoc Hoa Hotel - in the Old Quarter. Opened in 1991, and one of the first private boutique hotels in Hanoi.
* Sunshine Hotel, 42 Ma May Street [13] has clean rooms in the middle of the Old Quarter (around US$30 incl. taxes & breakfast)
* Sunny Hotel - enjoys views towards both the Old Citadel and the West Lake.
* Viet Anh Hotel, 11 Ma May St., Tel: +84-4 9261302, Fax: +84-4 9261306, [14]. A terrific hotel with friendly staff, reputable tours, and newly remodeled rooms, located on a shady, beautiful street in the Old Quarter. Internet and a good buffet breakfast (with chef on hand) are included in the room rate. Room rates can be negotiable depending on the season, with some as low as US$15, but official prices range from US$18 for a standard room to US$60 for a family suite.
* Zephyr Hotel - just a few steps from the famous Hoan Kiem Lake, and within walking distance of the Opera House.
* Daewoo Hanoi Hotel
* Fortuna Hotel
* Guoman Hotel - on Ly Thuong Kiet Street.
* Hanoi Horison Hotel - opened in 1997.
* Hanoi Hotel - near the city centre and International Trade Exhibition Fair Centre.
* Hilton Hanoi - US$80-105
* Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel - adjacent to the Hanoi Opera House.
* Melia Hanoi Hotel - city centre, 5-star.
* Nikko Hanoi Hotel
* Sheraton Hanoi Hotel - on the shore of Hanoi's largest West lake, with lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards.
* Sofitel Hanoi - 15 Ngo Quyen Street (between the lake and the Opera) [15] US$169-390
* Sofitel Metropole Hanoi Hotel - within walking distance of the Hanoi Opera House, Hoan Kiem Lake, etc.
* Sofitel Plaza Hotel (formerly Meritus West Lake) - renowned as the most scenic hotel in Ha Noi with a zig zag facade and stepped architecture.
* Sunway Hotel - boutique style, 143 rooms
There are hordes of internet cafés all over the city. Most are full of Vietnamese teens playing online dance or battle games, but if you want to be the one square who's using the internet for text, well, that's up to you. Rates vary, but can be as low as 3000 dong/hour. Some of the better cafés, particularly in the Old Quarter, have computers that are Skype-capable for international phone calls.
Monks crossing the street
Like everywhere else in Vietnam, traffic in Hanoi is dominated by an incredible amount of motorbikes, all of which seem to be making a mad, desperate dash for something just out of reach — all of the time. In other words, pedestrian traffic can be overwhelming for visitors, especially in the narrow streets around the Old Quarter. When you leave the curb, look both ways, and take each step slowly and patiently while trying to make eye contact with any oncoming drivers. The key word here is slowly — don't rush. This way the drivers are aware of you, and can take you into account (along with all of the other motorbikes). Be patient and pay attention when you're crossing any street, large or small, and you should be fine.
* The Perfume Pagoda is a Buddhist pilgrimage site about 60 km southwest of Hanoi. A full-day excursion involves a boat trip, hiking up a mountain, and visiting various temples and grottoes.
* Cao Bang, featuring the beautiful Ban Gioc waterfall, is five hours away by bus, near the Chinese border.
* The Cuc Phuong National Park is the largest national park in Vietnam, and an easy day-trip from Hanoi.
* Staying overnight in a boat on the breath-taking Ha Long Bay (or in a hotel on Cat Ba Island) is the most popular side-trip from Hanoi.
* The northern village of Sapa, home to ethnic minorities and gorgeous mountain scenery, is also a popular two or three day trip.
written by  garisti on June 1, 2008 from Hanoi, Vietnam

Ha Long, Vietnam
Ha Long Bay (also Halong Bay) is in northern Vietnam, 170 kilometers east of Hanoi. The bay is famous for its scenic rock formations.
"Ha Long" is literally translated as "Bay of Descending Dragons." Prior to the 19th century, this name was not recorded in any document or archive. When mentioning the present-day Quang Ninh Sea or Ha Long Bay, old historical books often referred to them by the names of An Bang, Luc Thuy or Van Don. Not until the late 19th century did the name of Halong Bay appear on a French Marine Map. The Hai Phong News, a French newspaper of the time, had an article, Dragon appears on Ha Long Bay, reporting the following story: In 1898 a sub-lieutenant named Lagredin, captaining the Avalanse reported seeing a huge sea snake on Ha Long Bay. This was also witnessed by many of the crews. Thus emerged the European image of the Asian dragon. Whether this appearance of a strange animal looking like a dragon resulted the name of Ha Long Bay is not known.
From Hanoi: 165 km or 3 hrs 30 minutes drive
From Hai Phong: 75 km or 1 hr 30 minutes drive
The best way to get to Halong Bay is to rent a car from Hanoi. It costs approximately USD100 return.
There is also a tourist open bus services offered by travel agencies around the Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi. Cost: USD8 net/ person/way
Public buses leave from Long Bien Station to the Bai Chay Station (other side of Red River, 5 km from Hoan Kiem Lake) every 30 minutes from 06:00 to 18:00 and cost 50,000 dong/person each way. This is not recommended for foreigner's travelers, as these buses are often crowded, slow and unsafe.
Mong Cai border City - there is a hydrofol service from Bai Chay to the border city with China
Cat Ba Island - rent or book a seat on a junk to Cat Ba Island
Haiphong City - buses leave from Bai Chay Station to Hai Phong City
Rent a junk to visit the bay for either several hours or overnight on the bay
* Kayaking
* Swimming
* Climb to the top of Titov Mountain
Sunset Vendor at Halong Bay
* On board You can sleep aboard on Halong Bay, there are several kind of junks providing overnight cruises on the bay including most luxury cruise of wooden junk.
* Emeraude Classic Cruises
* Dragon Pearl Junk
* There are several new hotels on Cat Ba Island, most cater to package overnight boat trips.
written by  garisti on June 1, 2008 from Ha Long, Vietnam

Hue, Vietnam
Hue (Huế) is located in central Vietnam and is the former imperial capital.
Guardian statues at the Tomb of Khai Dinh
Hue is intimately connected to the imperial Nguyễn Dynasty, based in Hue, who ruled from 1804 to 1945, when the Emperor Bao Dai abdicated in favor of Ho Chi Minh's revolutionary government. The city went through tough times during the Vietnam War, when it was conquered by the Viet Cong and held for 24 days; the VC slaughtered around 1,000 people suspected of sympathizing with the South, and American bombardment before retaking the city probably killed just as many if not more.
[edit] Orientation
Hue is easy to get a grip on. The main landmark is the Perfume River (Huong Giang), with the old city and the Citadel on the north side and the newer city, including most hotels and restaurants, on the south side. Much of the riverside has wisely been done up as a pleasant promenade and park dotted with bizarre sculptures. If you do not like Hue, then you should visit Daklak Province. One of the finer highland cities of Vietnam, Buon Me Thuot is the capital of the province. Once you are there, remember to visit Y-Niem Cafe & Nightclub. It is simply the best region. Take my advice.
[edit] Climate
Hue's weather is infamously bad: the Truong Son Mountains just to the south seem to bottle up all the moisture, so it's usually misty, drizzly or outright rainy, and things get even drippier than usual in the winter rainy season. Bring along an umbrella any time of year.
Hue's small Phu Bai airport fields daily flights to and from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, but flights are quite often disrupted by poor weather and it's 40 minutes away by taxi. Danang's airport, only two hours away by car now that the Hai Van Tunnel is open, is busier and more dependable. The airport is relatively out of date as most of its structures were built by the American garrison during the Vietnam War.
Several trains a day to Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Danang (4 hours) etc. The journey down south through the Hai Van Pass is particularly scenic, and from Danang you can take a taxi or motorbike to Hoi An.
A second-class sleeper ticket from Ho Chi Minh City to Hue costs 455,000 dong and offers a wonderful travel experience. The traveller gets to sit, lie and sleep in a very small cabin for 23 hours with five other people (nearly always Vietnamese), eat four plain but tasty and filling Vietnamese meals, listen to a fine selection of Vietnamese pop songs on the PA, and see some incomparably beautiful countryside, particularly in the last section between Da Nang and Hue. It's an excellent way to see the country and meet ordinary Vietnamese, who are unfailingly friendly and helpful, even to travellers who have not bothered to learn a word of their language. The trip is especially recommended if you like babies.
Public buses from all the bigger cities connect to the main bus station (Ben Xe Hue). Although open-tour buses take you directly to the hostel area, they charge more and tend to keep you from contact with locals.
* Sinh Cafe, 7 Nguyen Tri Phuong St, [1]. Direct buses to Hoi An cost US$2 and leave twice daily: the 07:30 service crosses the Hai Van Pass and makes three stops, stretching travel time out to 6 hours, while the 13:30 service goes through the tunnel and manages the trip in four. Pick-up directly from your hotel.
Like other Vietnamese cities, Hue is served by metered taxis (sedans), and un-metered cyclo-taxis and motorbike-taxis.
Taxi drivers are usually reasonably honest, but do make sure they turn the meter on: trips start at 13,000 dong for the first 2 km and then tick up at 8,000 dong/km. A metered trip out see two tombs, with waiting time, should come to around 200,000 dong (US$15).
With cyclos and motorbikes, you need to know where you are going and how much it should cost, or you will be overcharged. The drivers do not see this as cheating - you are rich and they are poor. No trip in Hue should cost more than 20,000 dong.
[edit] By bike
Hire a motorbike and join the locals as they swarm across the bridges and along the main roads at a leisurely pace. Available for around USD5/day from hotels and shops.
Cycling is also a good option, offering a great range of possibilities for no more than USD1/day.
[edit] On foot
Central Hue is quite compact, so you can reach most of the sights easily on foot. However, you'll need some transportation to get out to the emperors' tombs.
[edit] Imperial Citadel
Courtyard of Ngo Mon, with the Thai Hoa Palace in the background
The former imperial seat of government and Hue's prime attraction, this is a great sprawling complex of temples, pavilions, moats, walls, gates, shops, museums and galleries, featuring art and costumes from various periods of Vietnamese history. It is also delightfully peaceful - a rare commodity in Vietnam. The citadel was badly knocked about during fighting between the French and the Viet Minh in 1947, and again in 1968 during the Tet Offensive, when it was shelled by the Viet Cong and then bombed by the Americans. Some of it is now empty fields, and while restoration has been going on for 20 years there is still quite a long way to go. Allow several hours to see it properly. Entry US$8, open 06:30-17:00.
* Ngo Mon. The main southern entrance to the city, built in 1833 by Minh Mang. The central door, and the bridge connecting to it, were reserved exclusively for the emperor. Climb up to the second floor for a nice view of the exquisite courtyard. The Ngo Mon Gate is the principle entrance to the Imperial Enclosure. The Emperor would address his officials and the people from the top of this gate.
* Thai Hoa Palace. The emperor's coronation hall, where he would sit in state and receive foreign dignitaries.
* Forbidden Purple City. Directly behind Thai Hoa Palace, but it was almost entirely destroyed during the 1968 Tet Offensive and only the rather nondescript Mandarin Palaces on both sides remain.
[edit] Tombs of the Emperors
The tomb of Khai Dinh on a misty morning
Lake and pavilion at the tomb of Tu Duc
The other great attractions in Hue are the Tombs of the Emperors, which are located along the Perfume River south of the city. They are accessible by taxi or bike from the city, but the best way to see them is to hire a river boat and go for a cruise, which takes between four and six hours and costs between 30,000 dong (for a group) to 150,000 dong (for a boat all to yourself). This cost includes an excellent lunch, but does not include the admission to the tombs themselves, which is usually 55,000 dong, or the cost of a bike trip between the wharf and each of the tombs, which can range from 30,000 dong to 150,000 dong, depending on how hard you bargain. All of the tombs can be walked to from the wharf, with the walk taking anywhere from ten minutes to half an hour. The bike operators are pretty shameless about overcharging tourists so be prepared to be firm - you shouldn't be paying more than 50,000 dong and even that is overcharging you. The tombs themselves are worth the cost. They mostly date from the late 19th or early 20th centuries, when the Emperors had been reduced to figureheads under French colonial rule and had little else to do than build themselves elaborate tombs. The finest of them are the Tomb of Tu Duc, the Tomb of Minh Mang and the Tomb of Khai Dinh, all of which are fine examples of Vietnamese Buddhist aesthetics and architecture. Khai Dinh's tomb dates only from 1925 and is well preserved. The older ones have been allowed to crumble into picturesque semi-ruin, although some are now being restored.
* Tomb of Gia Long, 40 km from Hue. The most remote of the tombs, quiet and fallen into disrepair as Gia Long, the first Nguyen emperor, was notoriously despotic and about as far from Communist ideals as possible.
* Tomb of Khai Dinh, 10 km from Hue. Dating only from 1925, this is the best preserved of the lot and, while comparatively compact, impressively grand at first sight. While it follows the classic formula of forecourts leading up to the tomb of the Emperor, complete with statues in attendance, architecture buffs will spot some European influences. The tomb itself is completely over the top with incredibly detailed and opulent mosaics of cavorting dragons.
* Tomb of Minh Mang, 12 km from Hue. In this opulent complex, the main buildings are arranged on an east-west axis, including a courtyard surrounded by warrior statues and several temples and pavilions. Several bridges cross two lakes before the axis ends before the vast burial mound (which is circled by a fence). The mausoleum features large gardens and lakes: a pleasant place to sit and relax. If you're dropped off by boat note that there is a stretch of souvenir sellers to navigate during the short walk to the mausoleum entrance.
* Tomb of Tu Duc, 7 km from Hue. A vast, sprawling complex set around a lake, with wooden pavilions and tombs and temples dedicated to wives and favored courtesans (Tu Duc had 104 to choose from). The emperor's tomb itself, tucked away in the back, is surprisingly modest -- the final courtyard is nearly empty with just a stone coffin in the middle.
* Thien Mu Pagoda, 4 km from Hue. Perched on a bluff over the river and housing some very fine gold and silver Buddha images. The Thien Mu Pagoda overlooks the Perfume River and is the official symbol of the city of Hue.
[edit] Phu Bai Airport
If you are in the area to see relics from the Vietnam War, Phu Bai Airport is a must see. The airport was a dirt strip during the Indochina War, then during the Vietnam War, an American garrison was assigned there and built the airport up building concrete bunkers, paving the airstrip, and added a few other luxuries. The airport was vital in keeping Hue City supplied during the Eastertide Offensive of 1972 when "Charlie jumped the line". The airport retains the original buildings built by the Americans, however, they are retrofitted for use by the Vietnamese. If you have time if you are flying into the city, it would be worthwhile to check out the airport and the grounds.
* DMZ - Hue agents offer inexpensive tours of the Demilitarized Zone, supposedly a buffer between the North Vietnamese Army and the Americans during the Vietnam War of the 1960s, but which saw intense fighting. Well worth a day trip, sights include former airfields, bases, part of the Ho Chi Minh Trail and tunnels used by the locals to hide.
Bún bò Huế at Bun Bo Hue
Hue is famed for its Imperial cuisine, originally prepared for the emperor and his retinue. Although the emphasis is more on presentation than taste, an imperial banquet is well worth trying.
The most famous local dish is bún bò Huế, a noodle soup served with slices of beef and lashings of chili oil. Another tasty local treat is sesame candy (mè xửng), which is peanutty, chewy and quite tasty if fresh, and goes for under 10,000 dong per box.
* Bun Bo Hue, 11B Ly Thuong Kiet. This eponymous eatery specializes in its namesake dish. 15,000D gets you a bowl with a generous, mouth-meltingly soft if fatty cutlet plopped on top.
* Friendly restaurant, D Pham Ngu Lao, an excellent choice with charming staff and a wide range of Vietnamese and European food. Opened in 2005 and owned by a Vietnamese family, Friendly restaurant is in the town's centre.
* Mandarin Cafe, 12 D Hung Vuong. The owner is also a good photographer and many of his pictures hang on the wall. Worth a look.
* Little Italy serves the best pizza and pasta in town - call 054826928 for home delivery.
* Tinh Gia Vien, 20/3 Le Thanh Ton, tel. +84-54-522243. Wonderful old Hue-style nha vuon garden villa on a quiet side street, formerly the residence of a princess, converted by a bonsai enthusiast into a restaurant serving Imperial cuisine. There are three set menus at $10/12/15, the main difference being — to quote the menu — a "big", "bigger" or "biggest" fish, but all sets have 11 courses and are guaranteed to fill you up. The food wins full points for presentation, but is unfortunately somewhat toned down for the foreign palate.
[edit] Bars and clubs
* DMZ Bar & Cafe, 44 D Le Loi. Stays open late.
* Café on Thu Wheels, 1/2 D Nguyen Tri Phuong. It's a little bar owned by the charming lady Thu.
* B4 Bar-Cafe, 75 D Ben Nghe. A charming Belgian-Vietnamese owned bar, with a welcoming interior and free pool.
Lots of cheap traveller hotels and mid-market hotels as well. The largest cluster is along the short lane of Pham Ngu Lao, not quite as backpackery as its Ho Chi Minh City namesake but still a definite tourist magnet.
* Halo 10A/66 D Le Loi, has spotless rooms, spacious, with large bathrooms and tv if you want it. There is a balcony to sit at night, and it's close to all the nightlife in Hue. A double costs 160,000 Dong. That's about USD10 for people who refuse to use the national currency! Find it up an alley coming off the main road, where there are an array of other guest houses. You can see a small sign for it along with some others at the alley's entrance.
* Binh Duong I + III Hotel offers rooms from USD5, including hot water & satellite TV.
* Asia Hotel. Opened only in December 2004, but despite the token modern TV the the fittings seem much older. The rooms are well enough equipped though and the rooftop restaurant and pool have nice views. Rooms from a slightly overpriced US$30, including a decent buffet breakfast.Eat on the side of the streets for the best tasting meals is my recommendation.
* Saigon Morin, 30 Le Loi St. Hue's grand old hotel, opened by a Mr. Morin from France and running strong for over a hundred years. Excellent riverside location, white-washed colonial charm and a pleasant inner courtyard, although the rooms could use a little fine-tuning. Rates from US$100.
* Hoi An - this old merchant port is 100 km away (about 4 hours by road or train) and can also be visited as a day trip, with Marble Mountain and China Beach as potential stops along the way
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written by  garisti on June 1, 2008 from Hue, Vietnam

Hoi An, Vietnam
Hoi An (Hội An) is a beautiful city in Vietnam, just south of Da Nang. It's an ancient trading port, and its old town is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Hoi An riverside, seen from Cam Nam
Hoi An, once known as Faifo, was a major international port in the 16th and 17th centuries, and the foreign influences are discernible to this day. While the serious shipping business has long since moved to Danang, the heart of the city is still the Old Town, full of winding lanes and Chinese-styled shophouses, which is particularly atmospheric in the evening as the sun goes down. While most all shops now cater to the tourist trade the area has been largely preserved as is, unusual in Vietnam, and renovation has proceeded slowly and carefully - it's mercifully absent of towering concrete blocks and karaoke parlors.
The main thoroughfare in the Old Town is Tran Phu. Just south of the Old Town, across the Thu Bon River, are the islands of An Hoi and Cam Nam.
The nearest airport is in Danang, which has frequent connections to Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and some flights to Bangkok, Singapore and Siem Reap, Cambodia (for Angkor Wat). A taxi from the airport to Hoi An costs about US$15 thanks to the cartel, but only about half that in the other direction.
There is no railway station in Hoi An. The nearest is in Danang (see below), which receives several trains a day from Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Hue, Nha Trang etc. Most travel agents and hotels can book a train ticket for you.
Traveller buses run daily up and down the coast from Da Nang, Hue and Nha Trang. Note the road to Nha Trang is awful and the trip takes all day; it is much better to take a train.
[edit] By motorbike or taxi
It's easy to take a motorbike or taxi to and from Da Nang via the Marble Mountains (see below), from where you can catch a train onwards.
The centre of Hoi An is very small and pedestrianised, so you will be walking around most of the time. Unfortunately, bikes have not been banned from the center yet, so particularly at night keep an eye out for motorized kamikazes.
To go to the beach, or reach some of the more remote hotels, it is easy and cheap to hire a bicycle. Taxis are few and far between, but can be called by phone. When busy, taxis may refuse your fare back to your hotel from town if it is too close, opting for larger fares. Arranging a shuttle from your hotel may be a better option. Motorbike taxis are always an option. You can also charter boats for about US$1/hour.
Almost all of the hotels will rent out motorbikes at about five USD a day. It's standard practice for them to rent you the bike with just enough petrol to make it to the next petrol station. If you value your money, go to a gas station, rather than the hand-operated roadside pumps -- the markup at the latter is vicious. Use the bike to visit My Son, about an hour away, or the Marble Mountains, about forty minutes north towards Da Nang.
[edit] Old Town
Chinese shophouses and Communist propaganda
Entry to all historical sites in Hoi An is via a coupon system, where US$5 gets you a ticket that can be used to enter five attractions: one museum, one family house, one Chinese meeting hall, the art performance theater and either the Japanese Covered Bridge or the Quan Kong Temple. Tickets are sold at various entry points into the Old Town, including Hai Ba Trung St.
* Japanese Covered Bridge (Cau Nhat Ban or Lai Vien Kieu), on the west end of Tran Phu Street. Hoi An's best-known landmark consists of a covered bridge and pagoda. The bridge was constructed in the early 1600's by the Japanese community, roughly 40 years before they left the city to return to Japan under the strict policy of sakohu enforced by the Tokugawa Shogunate. Last renovated in 1986. Entry one coupon.
* Museum of Trade Ceramics, 80 Tran Phu St. The dusty displays of broken pottery in this house are eminently forgettable, but the house itself is nice enough. Entry one coupon.
* Phung Hung House, 4 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St (just west of the Japanese Bridge). Traditional two-story wooden house, inhabited over 100 years by eight generations — and the current one attempts to guide you around in hope of a tip. Entry one coupon.
Chinese meeting halls. Numerous congregation halls, where Chinese expatriate residents met and socialized, are dotted about the town. They are typically named after their home region, such as Fujian and Canton. Entry into any hall one coupon.
* Cantonese Meeting Hall, 176 Tran Phu St. Calm courtyard with ornate statuery. Take a peek at the half-hidden back yard and its kitchy pastel dragon statues.
* Hokien (Fujian) Meeting Hall, straddling Tran Phu and Phan Chu Trinh Streets.
* Chinese All-Community Meeting Hall, next to the Fujian hall, also spanning the block.
[edit] Other
* The colourful waterfront Market
* The paper lanterns and candles floating down the river in the evening.
* The Hoi An Orphanage is located right next to the Roman Catholic church. A British non-profit organisation, called the Kianh Foundation,[1]works permanently at the Orphanage to improve the children’s health, education and quality of life.
* Cua Dai Beach A place to unwind a few kilometers away from the town centre. A taxi from the town centre to Cua Dai Beach costs around US$3. It's also possible to cycle there, which gives you a good view of the rice farms along the way. Along the beach are a number of mini restaurants selling seafood and drinks. They also provide deck chairs and tables right on the beach. There are a number of upmarket resort hotels in the area.
[edit] Events
* Full Moon Festival
Lantern shop
Made-to-measure shirts, blouses, dresses, suits etc. from the renowned tailors. When last counted in 2002, there were 140 shops in the city and the number is now well over 400. Be careful who you choose to manufacture your clothes. As a rule of thumb, give all tailors 2 days advance to prepare your garment and keep going back until you get your clothes right!!
* Cloth Market, located next to the Central Market and looks like a cloth warehouse. Inside are many small tailor stalls that are generally cheaper and more reliable than shops elsewhere. Orders usually take a day or two.
* Yaly, Tran Phu Street. They have a great and extensive range of fabrics to choose from and the staff are very attentive and extremely patient. Ignore the fixed price claim! Discounts can be given for multiple purchases.
Hoi An also has a good selection of Vietnamese art, both modern and traditional, serious and kitschy. Galleries can be found all over town but Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St, just across the Japanese Bridge, has the heaviest concentration.
Food in Hoi An is, even by high Vietnamese standards, cheap and tasty. In addition to the usual suspects, there are three dishes that Hoi An is particularly famous for:
* Cao lầu, a dish of rice noodles which are not quite as slippery as pho and a bit closer in texture to pasta. The secret is the water used to make it, and authentic cao lau uses only water from a special well in the city. The noodles are topped with slices of roast pork, dough fritters, and this being Vietnam, lots of fresh herbs and veggies.
* White rose (banh bao vac), a type of shrimp dumpling made from translucent white dough bunched up to look like a rose.
* Wantan dumplings, essentially the same as the Chinese kind, served up in soup or deep-fried.
Prices in the very center of Hoi An are generally a little inflated by the tourist trade - cross the bridge over to An Hoi island for a selection of basic but cheap eateries.
* Hoai River, 44 Nguyen Thai Hoc. Terrific food, but long waits.
* Thanh Phuong, 56 Cong Dong (An Hoi island, just across bridge). Cheap and cheerful local eats. A steaming seafood hotpot for two and a large beer will set you back US$3.
* Trung Bac, 87 Tran Phu. 100 years of cao lau and still going strong. A bowl of chewy noodles and lots of veggies will set you back all of 8000 dong.
* White Rose, 51 Hai Ba Trung. The shop that actually makes most of the "white rose" dumplings served all around town. 15,000 dong per serve, and if you ask nicely they'll let you try to make them yourself. Open from 7AM until they run out, usually in the afternoon.
* Cafe Bobo, 18 Le Loi. Popular and reasonably-priced place. The frappucino-style mocha shakes are great.
[edit] Splash out
Gỏi cuốn fresh spring rolls and cao lầu noodles at Brother's Cafe
* Brother's Cafe, 27 Phan Boi Chau, [2]. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Probably Hoi An's nicest restaurant, with a lush landscaped garden in a wonderful riverside French colonial house. The fresh spring rolls (chả giò) are excellent — and priced to match at US$4.50 a plate. The 6-course $16 set meal for two is good value though.
* Cafe des Amies, on the main street next to the river - a couple of minutes away from the chinese bridge.
Do not miss this culinary experience. The main chef and owner, Mr Kim, cooks award winning food (Vietnamese, not French as the name might suggest) - he's also an interesting guy to talk to after your meal. For something like $5/6 you get a 5 or 6 course meal. It's a set menu each night, where you chose between seafood, meat or vegetarian; but beyond that it's a nice surprise to see what turns up at your table. They will provide you with stunning food, intereting background music, and excellent service. If you think this is a little over-enthusiatic for a restaurant, ask to read the guest book they keep with comments from all the customers. If you're backpacking on a budget a $6 meal seems a little extravagant (!) but it is well worth it - an excellent evening was had, and i recall it as one of the best meals i've ever had. The meals cooked are different every day, so it's tempting simply to return every evening...
$5.
* Before & Now, 51 Le Loi St, ☎ +84-510-910599. Very popular two-level bar and restaurant.
* Tam Tam Cafe, 110 Nguyen Thai Hoc. Cafe, bakery, restaurant and bar all rolled into one. Stylish, popular and not too badly priced.
Hotels in Hoi An are fiercely competitive, which means plenty of choice, low prices and generally high standards. Many are clustered around Hai Ba Trung St (formerly Nhi Trung St), just north of the Old Town and within easy walking distance, and also along Cua Dai St, off to the east and a bit of a hike away.
* An Phu, 30 Nguyen Duy Hieu St., ☎ +84-510-914345, [3]. One of the biggest budget hotel operations in Hoi An. South of the center, about a 5-10 minute walk away. Nice rooms and a relaxing pool in the middle. $10-15.
* Thanh Binh 3, Ba Trieu St. (off Hai Ba Trung St), ☎ +84-510-916777. Popular budget hotel done up like a Chinese temple, with a pool and pleasant rooms, all air-con equipped. The mattresses are on the hard side though and the breakfast isn't much to write about. $15-30.
* Nhi Nhi Hotel, 60 Hung Vuong St., ☎ +84-510-916718, [4]. Situated in the Old Quarter, Nhi Nhi Hotel offers affordable, nice rooms in an authentic Vietnamese neighborhood. Hoi An market and restaurants and coffee bars are nearby. $15-$20 including breakfast.
* Grassland Hotel, (Thao Nguyen Hotel), 22 Hai Ba Trung St, ☎ +84-510-921921, [5]. Provides free bicycles and 1 hour free internet per day. Room start at US$15(including breakfast) for a single room, US$ 18 for a Superior Twin & Double room.
* Phuong Nam Hotel Hoi An, 16-17 Ly Thai To Street, ☎ +84 510 923400/923430 (phuongnam@dng.vnn.vn), [6]. Situated in a peaceful area, just 5 mins walk to the old city and 20 mins walk to the beach. Free shuttle bus from 8AM-10PM to the old city. Internet Service.
* Hoai Thanh Hotel, 187 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, ☎ +84 510 861171 (info@hoaithanhhotel.com, fax: +84 510 861135), [7]. About 200 meters from the center of town. Rooms $24-75.
* Hoi An Indochine Hotel, Cua Dai Road, ☎ +84 510 923608 (infor@hoianindochine.com, fax: +84 510 923578), [8]. Only 5 minutes walk from the beach, by the calm and romantic river and garden. French style architecture with 61 riverview rooms. US$65/night (10 superior rooms), US$75/night (45 deluxe rooms), US$105 (6 suites).
* Ha An Hotel, 6 Phan Boi Chau Road, ☎ +84 510 863126. Located in a quiet area beyond the main markets, this hotel consists of a few buildings built in a semi-French colonial style around a central courtyard. The rooms are airy, light and pleasant with air-conditioning, bathrooms and TV. There's a collection of books in the reception area that can be borrowed by guests. The price includes a good breakfast. Rooms $30-40.
Many of Hoi An's higher-end hotels are located not in town itself, but by the beach some 5 km away from town.
* Lotus Hotel, 330 Cua Dai Road, Hoian, ☎ +84 (510) 923 357 (hoianlotus@dng.vnn.vn), [9]. Beautifully designed resort-hotel draws from a range of styles & influences resulting in a perfect blend of Eastern culture & French architecture, while our rooms are immaculately furnished and equipped in a relaxing combination of Vietnamese , Japanese and French styles. Free ADSL / WiFi is available in the whole hotel $ 36 - $ 55.
* Life Resort Hoi An, 1 Pham Hong Thai Street, ☎ +84 (510) 914-555 (hoian@life-resorts.com), [10]. The classiest hotel near the town center, located by the river a short stroll from the market. $98-268.
* Victoria Hoi An, Cua Dai Beach, ☎ +84 510 927 040, [11].
* Dong An Beach Hotel, ☎ +84 510 927888 (info@donganbeachhotel.com), [12]. Overlooking the Thu Bon River, and < 5min walk to the Cua Dai beach. Some 5 km away from town. $79-195.
* Hoi An Pacific Hotel, 167 Cua Dai Street (halfway between beach and town), ☎ +84 510 923 777 (info@hoianpacific.com), [13]. Opened in spring 2004, it boasts 3 restaurants and bars, including the "Sky Bar", the tallest in town at seven stories. $70-120.
* Furama Beach Resort, [14]. Brand new luxury resort on fabled China Beach. Approximately 20 minutes to Hoi An by taxi (5 minutes to Da Nang)
* My Son - Cham ruins in the jungle a few hours away (lots of agents offer day trips).
* The Marble Mountains, halfway to Da Nang, are well worth a stop. The hills loom out of the surrounding coastal plain and feature a group of Buddhist temples built into caves - a popular pilgrimage site for locals. Make sure you wear walking shoes, as reaching many of the caves on the map require clambering over rocks and through crevices. An small entry fee applies and guides are available.
* Hue - Ancient imperial capital a few hours away by car or train
written by  garisti on June 1, 2008 from Hoi An, Vietnam

Nha Trang, Vietnam
Nha Trang is Vietnam’s most famous and traditional seaside-resort-town.
Nha Trang Bay
Traces of human settlement date back to the Cham-Empire, though in times of Vietnamese rule there hasn’t been much more than small fishing villages. The French recognized quickly that this beautiful bay on the south central coast with its islands and white sand beaches makes up for perfect bathing and developed. The famous franco-swiss physician Alexandre Yersin spent most of his life here, too.
Today, Nha Trang is a buzzing modern city with high quality tourist facilities and the place to go if you want to do some scuba diving or snorkelling. Most of the tourist infrastructure is in the southern part of town around Biet Thu, whereas the life of the inhabitant is centered around the Cho Dam in the northern quarters. The corniche of Tran Phu is the backbone of the city, being accompanied by a beautiful promenade and the pristine beach.
The place is, unfortunetly, far more tawdy than other beach towns- it's beautiful, but if getting drunk with backpackers every night isn't your scene, you might want to look elsewhere.
The new airport is located some 20 km south of the city and serves only domestic destinations.
Taxi fare from the airport to downtown locations is about 170,000 dong, though many hotels have their own buses.
Nha Trang is a stop on the main railway-line connecting Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). The railway station is close to the cathedral in the northern part of town. If you want a soft-sleeper (the highest class available on Vietnamese trains), book your train ticket directly at the train station as far in advance as you are able. Having a private travel agent book this ticket will quite often result in you paying the agent for a Soft-sleeper, the agent will book a hard-sleeper and you will not know until you board the train and it is too late to make changes. This is one of the most common scams in Vietnam!
Open Tour-buses usually drop you in the main tourist area around Bien Thu, while the public bus station is at 58, 23 Thang 10, about 10min walk west of the center.
Nha Trang has a reliable and easy to navigate public bus system, where the ticket fare does not exceed 2000 dong for a ride on a modern, air-conditioned bus with Vietnamese music. You will find buses nr. 3 and 2 the most useful, since they pass through the southern quarters. Alternatively you'll find the usual selection of taxis, cyclos and Xe Om. There is no place in Nha Trang that justifies a fare higher 20,000 dong/person.
* The Alexandre Yersin Museum, northern end of Tran Phu, on the grounds of the Pasteur institute. Mon-Fri 7-11.15am &2-4.30pm, sat 2-4.30pm, 26,000 dong has a small but very informative display about the adventurous life of the man who discovered the germ that causes the black plague, established Dalat as a hillside-retreat for the French colonists and ventured, besides being a doctor, into every field of science that was accessible to him.
* Scuba diving and snorkelling are offered by several outfitters. Apparently prices for certified courses and the like are some of the lowest in the world. A morning on the boat, snorkelling over the reef, is about USD 12, while you can do the diving trip for ~ USD 30.
Sure Prices in Vietnam for diving are cheap but please do not look just for the best price, make sure you dive with a dive operator who has all the proper saftey equipment and insurances. You can also pay top dollar for your diving in Nha Trang through some of the more respecable operations,
Rainbow Diversoffer high standards of saftey and professional service, there are many dive centres in Nha Trang but Rainbow seems to have the highest profile. Daily dives and courses for all levels. Blue Diving Club is another PADI 5 Star Instructor Development Center in Nha Trang. All PADI courses available !
An excellent way to get to know and understand more of the country is to do some voluntary work. There are several organisaitons such as Travel to Teachand i-to-i that arrange work for international volunteers in Vietnam and other countries in the region.
In Nha Trang Travel to Teach works with a project teaching English and Computers too the kids that sleeps on the beach.
i-to-i offers volunteers the opportunity to work on a variety of projects across Vietnam including building homes in Ho Chi Minh City and teaching english in Hanoi.
* There is a guitar-workshop selling decent instruments starting from USD 25. Most of the cheaper ones are not manufactured meticulously enough to even make them tuneable.
Nha Trang has variety of local resturants, western resturants and cheap street stalls
Cheap street stalls will offer a dish of rice, pork steak and some vegs for about 10,000 dong. Local resturants offer all kind of common soups such as the ubiquitous Pho Bo (beef noodle) for 5,000-15,000 dong.
On Nguyen Thi Minh Khai just west of Hung Vuong there is a soft ice cream shop not to be missed, a mere 2000 dong gets you a small cone.
For paying a bit more than a Dollar per dish, you can spoil yourself with anything between Sushi and Pizza
If you are in for some night-life, most clubs are on Biet Thu.
* Kim's Bar is run by a woman who is an anti-pedophilic activist, providing a future for street children to keep them from being sold to the western sex-tourists.
* Sailing Club is a slightly posh establishment on the beach front south of the intersection with Biet Thu, sporting a dancefloor and 12 (twelve) speakers to pump up the jam. Lean back in your bamboo-chair on a starry tropical night on the big terrace and sip your favourite poison, if you where lucky enough to catch a seat.
* Pete's Bia Hoi. A quaint but cheap bia hoi (draft beer) joint located 2 blocks back from the Nha Trang Sailing Club and has excelent beer at "very cheap very vietnam" prices. 2 litres of ice cold San Miguel are available for 2000vnd. however smaller measurements are also available at equally priced offerings. He also has a small menu of snacks available at a reasonable price, his deep fried cauliflower and deep fried mushrooms are very good.
Accommodation is abundant in Nha Trang, and they are still building... Most hotels catering for foreigners are in the area around Biet Thu, but be sure to walk north into the side lanes if you want to cut down on prices and avoid the noisy traffic. You should be able to find a decent clean room with fan for ~USD 4, with air-con ~USD 8. (Prices for double room)
* Hoàng Châu Hotel, 6 Tôn Dản, T 058-524066 is a small Vietnamese-run place in a quiet dead-end street off Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. Works on a construction site for yet another big hotel between here and the seafront seem to be suspended in the moment, which is why the balconies of the frontal rooms offer perfect seaview. (USD 8 with air-con, local TV, hot shower)
* Quang Minh Hotel. Newly-constructed, a three-minute walk from the beach and offers rooms from $6/night, including satellite TV, hot water and refrigerator.
* Bao Dai Villa. The private villa of Vietnam's last emperor, Bao Dai. The villa is a little way from "downtown" Nha Trang and is somewhat secluded. Regular rooms go for about 30 USD and large suites go for 75 USD. Enjoy one of the best views and best food from the Bao Dai Restaurant which overlooks the ocean.
Internet access can be found in many hotels and through cheap internet cafes all over town. The farther away from Bien Thu, the cheaper the rates (3000 dong/hour is the going rate at most places, although cheaper can be found). Expect fair ADSL connections.
Thefts on the beaches of Nha Trang are sadly very common. Never leave your bag unguarded. Be aware of girl gangs at night. They are acting as if they are prostitutes in fact they steal your money.
[edit] The Islands
Tour operators offer boat tours to the surrounding islands for around $7USD, that usually include such funny things as a on-board fruit buffet or the "swimming bar", where you float in a circular swimming aid and try your hardest to get drunk. There are more serious approaches to it, so shop around for the flavour you want it to have.
* Do not use the "Tam Hanh Travel" agency at 3L Hung Vong, they will overcharge you, purchase false tickets, and lie to cover their tracks. There are many other reputable agencies in Nha Trang that you would be far better off using.
[edit] Other Beaches
About 30 km north of Nha Trang, just when you passed through the village of Ninh Hoa, a peninsula juts out into the South Chinese Sea, and on its northern coast rides its tinier brother, Hon Khoi. Several resorts are located on the eastern beach of Hon Khoi, where you find palmtrees, white sand and turquoise waters. To get there follow the highway north past the turnoff to Dac Lac Province/Buon Ma Thuot. Then look out for a sign reading Doc Let-Resort, close to a filling station. A taxi will take 2 persons for about 200,000 dong, while a Xe Om should not be more expensive than 100,000 dong. Or catch a through-bus plying highway Nr.1 and jump off at the turn off. There will always be some motorbike-drivers waiting to take you. Whatever place you choose to go, be sure to reserve a bungalow in advance.
* Doc Let Beach Resort, sign-posted, 058-849663,Fx849506, is the best known place and closest to the mainland. Though it started out as a traveller's secret, it quickly became a destination for domestic tourists, who basically flood the place during weekends and holidays. There is some socialist charm to the not so "white palm beach turquoise waters"-like architecture of the place, but it's definitely not the old Robinson-feeling you might be craving.
* Paradise Resort, Nha Nhi Thien Duong, follow the signs from Doc Let-Resort through Dong Hai-village, is run by an elderly gentleman and his Vietnamese family. Bungalows are USD 16-18 (11-14 for a single person), depending on if they are close to the beach or not. Newer and nicer bungalows for USD18 are being constructed just next to the main compound. Meals are included, and prices for drinks are reasonable. Water, fruits, coffee and tea are free. 0084-58-670480, fx:0084-58-670479, paradise_doclech@hotmail.com, http://www.vngold.com/doclet/paradise.
* Jungle Beach 091-3429144,syl@dng.vnn.vn is reportedly slightly more upmarket, with prices being USD 15 per person, even if you sleep on the beach. Run by a Canadian-Vietnamese couple, food's included, and it's the most remote of the resorts here.
written by  garisti on June 1, 2008 from Nha Trang, Vietnam

Cam Ranh, Vietnam
Puerto naval. Deprecable.
written by  garisti on June 1, 2008 from Cam Ranh, Vietnam

Da Lat, Vietnam
Dalat, also Da Lat, located in the South Central Highlands of Vietnam, was originally the playground of the French who built villas in the clear mountain air to escape the heat and humidity of the coast and of Saigon, now know as Ho Chi Minh City.
Dalat: "Le Petit Paris"
Dalat Countryside
Dalat's high altitude (1500-2000 m) and fertile landscape make it one of Vietnam's premier agricultural areas. In fact, in markets as far north as Hanoi, vegetable and flower vendors will tout their "made in Dalat" produce.
Most guidebooks describe Dalat as a cheesy town popular only as a local honeymoon destination with tacky sites. The good news about that description is that the town is not over-run with tourists like some other cities in Vietnam. The bad news is that the description is not entirely untrue. There are tacky sites in Dalat where local honeymooners go to get their pictures taken by photographers, but Dalat is surrounded by some of the best mountain biking, hiking and canyoning opportunities in Vietnam.
Most local and foreign travellers arrive in Dalat by bus, particularly on the famous Sinh Cafe Hanoi-HCMC bus route. From Nha Trang, the bus ride is about 5 hours, with the obligatory stop at a dilapidated Chaam temple/tourist site. From Ho Chi Minh City, the bus ride is also about 5 hours.
Depending on where you stay, you can walk to most parts around town. You can catch a Xe Om (motorbike taxi) from most corners, so if you're going somewhere farther out of town, you have a fast way to get there.
You can also rent a motorbike by the day.
Alternatively, see the Do | "Easy Riders" section, below.
* Ho Xuan Huong aka Xuan Huong lake, center of town. Open daily, all hours. No admission fee but rental fees vary if you want to boat. Approximately 5km in diameter, this lake was made after two dams on the Camly river were destroyed during a storm in the 1930s. Now, Xuan Huong lake is one of the main draws of Da Lat, and you can see honeymooners and locals strolling its banks. Many nice hotels have a view of the lake.
* Thung Lung Tinh Yeu aka Valley of Love, Phu Duong Thien Vong street. Open daily until 5PM. Admission fee under USD1. About 5km outside of town, the Valley of Love is common stop on Dalat tours and is very popular with honeymooners. The Valley of Love is also a great spot for canyoning. See contact info below for canyoning operators.
* Lake of Sorrow or Lake of Sighs, 5km northeast of town on Ho Xuan Huong road. Admission fee under USD1. The Lake of Sorrow is another common destination in Dalat. The Lake of Sorrow is so-named because of a tale of two lovers, one who committed suicide after the other was called up to serve in the army. The exact tale changes depending on the age and gender of the storyteller!
* Tuyen Lam Lake, 5km south of town on highway 20. Its clean green waters flow from the beautiful Tia Spring and from the Da Tam River, which flows down from Voi mountain. Its waters stretch over an immense 350 hectares and because of its various sources, Tuyen Lam is known as the lake where rivers, springs and forests meet. The lake was built in the 80s. It is one of the largest and most beautiful lakes in town. The other side of the lake is the Voi mountain which is a good place for hiking.
* Prenn Falls, At the foot of Prenn Pass, about 10km outside of town. Open daily until 5PM. Admission fee under USD1. A very common stop on a typical Dalat tour, Prenn Falls is quite beautiful but is a lot more fun when you're hiking it than just taking pictures of it.
* Pongour Falls, 30km south of town on highway 20.
Touring Central Highlands with the Easy Riders
* Easy Riders [1] (a motorbike and driver/guide) is a great way for a non-motorcyclist to tour the central highlands, providing access to places you would otherwise never know about. They speak good English, are from local villages, seemingly know everyone, and will probably find you before you find them. You will know the driver is legit when you are presented with a book, full of praise from other excited tourists. From about USD20/person for an 8 hour tour, up to USD60/day for long distance multi-day trips, often including accommodation.
* Outdoor Adventures, 32 Truong Cong Dinh , phone - 063-832221, fax - 063-510965, cell - 0918593311 tnkdalat@vnn.vn website runs trips daily with extended trips outside Dalat also available. Combines American technology and safety methods with local knowledge of trails and communities to deliver an outstanding adventure experience. Hike the highlands, making your way across sketchy bridges, to meet hill tribes that barely experience foreigners. Or, canyon the Valley of Love and enjoy the stunned faces of honeymooners as you pass with climbing gear over your shoulder. And, best of all, bike through coffee farms to Bao Dai palace or to the Bamboo forest and enjoy stunning views of Da Lat's many lakes and rivers.
There aren't a lot of handicrafts for purchase here in Da Lat.This is mostly because Dalat is not heavily touristed, so items on sale are for locals and Vietnamese honeymooners. However, Dalat is famous for its beautifully crafted silk embroidered pictures, which can be purchased at a massive mark up from the many galleries around Dalat or at a fraction of the price from the central Dalat market.
Dalat also has an abundance of fruit, vegetables and flows available for purchase if you plan to stay for a few days and want to liven up your hotel room or cook your own meals.
* Central Market / Cho Dalat, center of town. Open daily until early evening. Given its breadbasket status, Dalat's Central Market place is the best place in town to eat fresh fruits and vegetables. Near the entrance, there is a lively and always busy vegetable restaurant that serves excellent soups. A tiny vegetarian food stall is located in a corner of the second level.
* Golf Course Pro Shop, open daily until about 8PM. If you are craving quesidillas and haven't had Mexican in the months you've backpacked through Asia, you will find what you're looking for at the Pro Shop. It's little bit out of the way, but the quesidillas, chips and guacamole are excellent. And, the beer is always cold.
* Da Quy / Wild Sunflower Restaurant (49 Truong Cong Dinh) offers very high-quality French & Vietnamese cuisine at reasonable prices.
* Peace Café next to Peace Hotel 1 offers some of the cheapest (and tastiest) eats in Dalat.
* Larry's Bar, 12 Tran Phu (at the basement of the Sofitel Dalat Palace Hotel). Open every night. The Sofitel Dalat Palace was championed/refurbished by Larry Hillblom, (also infamous for his lascivious proclivities for very young SE Asian/Pacific Island women), who saved the palace from obscurity and demolition and who also happened to have lots of American dollars to spend as one of the founders of DHL. Hillblom died just days after the hotel re-opened in 1995. Larry's Bar pays homage to Larry's Brit(?) (Born in Kingsburg, California) background. Library-style with dark wood paneling, darts and lots of good beer and nuts available. Interesting place to relax after a day of biking or hiking.
Accommodation in Dalat is very reasonable in the 'off-season', for as little as USD4 per night for a perfectly presentable hotel room with double bed and ensuite.
* Hoa Binh 1 Hotel, also known as Peace Hotel 1, is anything but peaceful, and fills to capacity on weekends. But staff are friendly, rooms are available from USD4/night, and there is a cafe next door.
* Sofitel Dalat Palace Hotel [2]
There are various travel agencies in the town that can book buses to all parts of the country.
written by  garisti on June 1, 2008 from Da Lat, Vietnam

Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Ho Chi Minh City (Vietnamese: Thành Phố Hồ Chí Minh), commonly known as Saigon or by the abbreviation HCMC, is the largest city in Vietnam and the former capital of the Republic of Vietnam (South Vietnam).
Afternoon siesta, near Ben Thanh Market
Saigon was officially renamed Ho Chi Minh City on May 1st 1975. However, the old Saigon moniker is still very widely used by both Vietnamese and foreigners -- especially when referring to the most central part of the city, to which most tourists flock.
The helpful, squeaky clean Tourist Information Center (4G 4H Le Loi St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Tel (84-8) 822 6033) can be found on the northeast corner of the roundabout at the intersection of Le Loi and Nguyen Hue, right in the heart of the city. It's a great place to pick up a free map (which includes a map of Hanoi, as well) and get an idea of what the city and surrounding area has to offer.
Tan Son Nhat (IATA: SGN | ICAO: VVTS) is Vietnam's largest international airport. Immigration is notoriously strict and can be time consuming, but if your papers are in order you should be fine. Note that the all-white departure cards are only for those without the 'yellow paper' received upon arrival.
The recently introduced No. 152 air-con airport bus is the cheapest way into the city, and will drop you off on the west side of the Pham Ngu Lao area, or at the bus terminal on the south side of the Ben Thanh Market roundabout. The price was recently increased to 3000 dong - still a bargain by any measure.
Taxis from the airport to the city centre take 30 minutes and cost USD3-5; make sure the driver uses the meter. However, if you want to avoid the trouble of bargaining and negotiating, you can just buy a "Taxi coupon" near the exit of the airport terminal for USD5.
You can change money at the airport, but you're probably better off paying for your first trip with USD and exchanging in the city as the exchange in the airport may charge a commission as high as 3%.
Taxi drivers get commission for taking customers to certain hotels so when arriving at the airport be explicit about exactly which hotel you want to be taken to. This may be harder than expected if the hotel is one that doesn't pay commission.
When going to the airport, taxi drivers often attempt a scam involving an airport entry tax; it's their job to pay it. As of November 2006, international departure taxes should be included in the price of your ticket. Check with your airline before leaving, however, as some tickets (including any bought before the November 2006 change) do not include the tax, and you'll find yourself faced with a 240,000 dong suprise at the check-in counter.
The multitude of private tour company buses usually drop passengers off on Pham Ngu Lao just west of De Tham, giving easy access to accommodation in the backpacker area. Of course, this means that you'll have at least 40-odd people shopping for the same rooms, which can be daunting as the nearby spots get snapped up. Patience will reward those who dig deeper into the tiny alleys, which have a (suprisingly safe) life of their own.
The train station is located on Cach Mang Thang Tam northwest of the city centre, and is a short taxi or public bus ride away from the main hotel districts.
Taxis are the most comfortable way of getting around, and it's easy and safe to flag a taxi anywhere, anytime; but beware rigged meters that increase the fare too fast.
Carry small change and bills for paying fares, which are quite cheap at 12000 dong for the first 2km, plus 6000 dong per additional km. However, not all taxis are created equal: newer cars are more likely to have working air-con; larger mini-SUV-type models charge a higher rate.
[edit] By motorbike
Motorbikes (xe ôm) are plentiful, cheap, and can be either safe or dangerous. Absolutely agree on a price before you set off; short hops around town shouldn't be more than 10000 dong, and all the way to the airport around 30000. And if your stomach is a tight hard knot, don't hesitate to ask the driver to go a little slower.
You can rent your own motorbike in many places, especially around the backpacker area (Pham Ngu Lao) in District 1. Prices range from USD3-7/day; USD4 should get you a solid 100-110cc bike. Driving in large Vietnamese cities is for experienced drivers - the traffic is intense, and has its own rhythms and logic. Beware of thieves: always keep your motorbike in sight or parked with an attendant.
[edit] By cyclo
For many reasons, not least because of government attempts to restrict cyclos on busy urban streets, cyclos are disappearing. At around USD2/hour and because they are so slow, they can be a good choice for taking in the city - however in areas popular with tourists, they often try to overcharge, so bargain beforehand. They circulate around the central market and will immediately try to take you on a city tour the moment you are on board. Unless you fancy the novelty of a cyclo, a taxi will be quicker and just as cheap to anywhere you may want to go.
A big investment was recently made in public transit, and brand new bright green buses are everywhere - the tourist information office has route information. Cheaper and safer than many of the alternatives, the biggest problem is that when you get off the bus, you become a pedestrian (see below).
[edit] Walking
The streets, sidewalks, and outdoor markets are owned by the motorbikes, and not yet geared towards pedestrian traffic (although sidewalk clearing campaigns are now underway). Even though traffic is not as dense and chaotic as in, say, Bangkok, it's pretty scary for the average tourist. It consists mainly of motorcycles, (sometimes with up to five people including small children perched on them) and drivers tend to drive offensively (as opposed to defensively). Traffic flows in a continuous, noisy stream, and traffic signals appear to be largely "advisory". Crossing roads is therefore a challenge for Westerners used to traffic lights. The trick is to follow the Vietnamese - step confidently out into the road and cross at a slow but steady pace. Trust that the traffic will flow miraculously around you, and it (probably) will.
The traffic police occupy themselves with random roadside checks and do not bother the motorcyclists that are running red lights or driving on the sidewalks. The police recently announced a crackdown on pedestrians. This does NOT mean that they will hassle you; the most likely meaning of the crackdown is that you will be held responsible if you are involved in an accident.
Reunification Hall: the tank that ended the war
* Reunification Hall, 106 Nguyen Du Street. Formerly South Vietnam's Presidential Palace, this is a restored five-floor time warp to the Sixties left largely untouched from the day before Saigon fell to the North. On April 30, 1975, the war ended when tank 843, now parked outside, crashed through the gate. Be sure to check out the impressively kitschy recreation room, featuring a circular sofa. You can also visit the war rooms in the basement and view a propaganda film recounting how the South Vietnamese lackeys and American imperialists succumbed to Ho Chi Minh's indomitable revolutionary forces. Entry 15000 dong; open daily 07:30-11:30, 13:00-16:00.
* War Remnants Museum, 28 Vo Van Tan Street. Formerly known as the Exhibition House of American War Crimes, and currently housed in a rather confused assemblage of warehouses, with new purpose-built premises under construction next door. This disturbing display of man's cruelty during the Vietnam (American) War includes halls full of gruesome photographs, a real guillotine, a simulated "tiger cage" prison and jars of deformed fetuses blamed on Agent Orange. The comic relief provided by a display on the evils of American rock music has sadly disappeared. Entry 10000 dong; open daily 07:30-11:45, 13:30-17:30. On Le Quy Don, just south of the museum, is a 2000 dong/cone soft ice cream vendor, a happy treat in a hot and hectic city.
* City Hall, end of Nguyen Hue Street. Originally called the Hôtel de Ville and now formally re-branded the People's Committee Hall, it's a striking cream and yellow French colonial building beautifully floodlit at night. No entry, but the statue of Uncle Ho in front is a very popular place for photos.
* Museum of Vietnamese History, at the top of Le Duan Street (just inside the zoo gates). The museum has a fine collection of Vietnamese antiquities, but unfortunately they are accompanied by signage which is both in poor English and full of risible Marxist distortions. Read up on Vietnamese history first or you'll have no idea what you're looking at. Outside, the Botanical Gardens are very nice and a good place for a cheap lunch away from the crowds. If you care about animal welfare, avoid the zoo.
* Notre Dame Cathedral, a French-built Catholic cathedral in the city centre (Dong Khoi, District 1) next to the Post Office. Free entry. Closes for lunch and at weekends, so check opening hours.
* Saigon River, the park in front of the Renaissance Hotel offers nice views of the river. Make sure you know how to cross the road before attempting to get there. Expect to encounter some beggars in the park.
If you're in Saigon on a Sunday night, then beg, borrow, or rent a two-wheeled vehicle and join the throngs for di choi. It's basically a party on wheels, where everyone just rides through the downtown streets until the wee hours.
If the heat starts to get you down, there are several water parks where you can splash around to cool off. Close to the city centre in District 11 is Dam Sen Water Park; just north of the city in the Thu Duc District is Saigon Water Park; others are Water World in District 9, Ocean Water Park in District 7, and Dai The Gioi Water Park in District 5.
Galaxy Cinema at 116, Nguyen Du, District 1, is also a favourite among locals and bored tourists. They show up to date movies in a 4 screened cinema.
Visiting hair salons is also a must do for tourists, as Vietnamese are famous for it. Hair wash, manicure and pedicure cost no more than USD10. One nice place to go to is Vu Salon @ 210, Tran Quang Khai, District 1, within city limits.
* Ben Thanh Market, west end of Le Loi. Probably the largest, offering a wide spread of, well, pretty much everything from Ho Chi Minh T-shirts to cosmetics, diapers, pickled plums and live ducks. Popular with tourists, so prepare to haggle (your luck may vary with this, as 'fixed' prices are being introduced).
* Night market (just outside of Ben Thanh market). Here you can enjoy many kinds of different food and drink, and go round to do your shopping as well. Open from 17:00 (when the Ben Thanh market closes).
* Saigon Square, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Nguyen Du. Some of the former Russian Market stores have moved here. Very popular for hip, young people; you can find cheap watches, DVDs, T-shirts, jeans, shorts, slippers, etc, and there's a nice supper market in the middle of the square. Open 09:00-19:00.
* Tax Department Store, corner of Le Loi and Nguyen Hue. Formerly the Russian Market, this is now a rather sterile department store of sorts filled with stalls selling touristy kitsch, although the selections get better as you ascend the levels. There's a good supermarket on level 2. If you are traveling here by taxi, the new name may be met by blank expressions from taxi drivers. The old name seems to work.
You're spoiled for choice in Saigon, which offers the country's largest variety of Vietnamese and international food.
Food stalls are scattered all over the city, but there's a fair collection in the Ben Thanh market (see Buy).
Along Pham Ngu Lao there are many budget Westernised options, and venturing a bit further into the side alleys can uncover some better choices than on the main streets.
Hue beef noodles at Dong Ba, 110A Nguyen Du, Dist 1. This is a shop that sells Hue Food including Banh Beo, traditional rice cakes.
* Lemongrass, 4 Nguyen Thiep Street. A reliable if mildly touristy Vietnamese restaurant. Most dishes are in USD3-4 range, although some seafood items are expensive; try the weekly specials.
* Quan An Ngon, 138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street. A large but busy Vietnamese restaurant featuring the best regional specialties from around the country in the USD2-3 range. Set in an atmospheric old French villa that's handy for Reunification Palace too. Has been enthusiastically recommended by The New York Times.
* Quan Nuong, 29-31 Ton That Thiep. On the third floor (keep going till you reach the roof, there's a restaurant inbetween the bottom floor ice cream parlor and this restaurant), this BBQ restaurant is dangerously delicious. Try the bacon wrapped salmon & the beef wrapped cheese skewers - you grill it yourself at your table. Around USD3-5 per person. Come with your fighting mitts on Friday and Saturday nights, everyone for themselves when it comes to grabbing a table. Go downstairs to the first floor after for some ice cream delights at Fanny's.
* Ngoc Suong Marina,19C Le Quy Don, is a restaurant specializing in seafood. Try the fish salad and the clams cooked in white wine.
* L'En tete, 1st floor, 139 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q.1 (at the junction with Calmette). Excellent French restaurant in a area not normally associated with high dining. Great for a leisurely dining experience, good food with main courses ranging from 150000-450000 dong. Open 17:00-midnight,
* Tân Nam, 60-62 Dong Du, Q.1 (a few doors down from Sheraton Saigon). The ground floor is open-air, the upper floor is air-con. Rather expensive and mediocre food, around USD10 per person but they will park your motorcycle while you eat, and wander around the waterfront.
* Temple Club, 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q.1 (first floor, with an ice cream parlour below) has a 1930's ambiance with separate bar, restaurant, and lounge area sections. The food is fair but most people come to soak up the atmosphere.
[edit] Coffee shops
A cup of immensely strong black Vietnamese coffee (sweetened with sugar or condensed milk), cà phê sữa nóng, in a traditional Vietnamese café is an absolute must when in Saigon. The coffee is actually brewed in a little metal apparatus placed on your cup; just lift it off when it has cooled enough to touch (and hence drink).
During the summer months, the combination of high humidity and temperature may tempt tourists to try iced Vietnamese coffee (sweetened with sugar and/or condensed milk), cà phê sữa đá. All travel books recommend that you avoid beverages containing ice since the ice is created from local, impure water sources.
* Trung Nguyen [1] is the Vietnamese version of Starbucks, but with much better coffee. Figure on 10000 dong for a basic cuppa, although there are plenty of variations including the infamous weasel coffee (cà phê chồn), made from coffee beans collected from civet excrement. Two convenient outlets are east side of Nguyen Hue right before City Hall, and corner of Thu Khoa Huan and Ly Tu Trong.
* Givral Café, Dong Khoi (opposite Continental Hotel) is more in the French tradition, with fresh pastries, collared waiters and elaborate portions of ice cream. Well located, but over 20000 dong for the simplest cup.
* Hideaway Café, 41/1 Pham Ngoc Tach, Q.3 - as it's name implies, this place is hidden away and a good place to read, or have a quiet conversation or meal. Decent Western menu, although slightly pricey, is good. Free wi-fi.
* Sozo has two locations, including one in Pham Ngu Lao. Prices are reasonable, wi-fi is free, and all proceeds benefit needy Vietnamese families.
* Cine Café 116 Nguyen Du, inside the Galaxy Cinema complex - quiet ambience with views of the park.
* Chot Nho Cafe 189, Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan District. Reasonable price, good menu. 10 minutes by taxi from main city centre. Wi-fi is free
[edit] Bars and clubs
Saigon has plenty of places to drink, although to a certain degree Vietnamese and foreigners hang out in different places; however this is slowly changing as Westerners become more familiar with the ways of the East.
* Allez Boo, corner Pham Ngu Lao, De Tham. The definitive backpacker bar. Full to the brim with the just-off-the-boat/plane/bus crowd, but none the worse for it. Always busy and sometimes a good night out, although not cheap for the area. Stick to beer (which is cheap and available in large sizes), the mixed drinks are expensive and surprisingly weak.
* Apocalypse Now, 2C Thi Sach. Legendary and still packed on weekends, although aside from a few movie references it's not all that much to look at. Stays open late.
* Bottom Line, Ly Thu Trung. Cubby hole for the lost and lonely. Good sports coverage, OK food, and pleasant attractive staff.
* Carmen, 8, Ly Thu Trung. Fantastic latin music playing band. Drinks pricing on the upside though.
* Catwalk, at the side of New World Hotel. All in one place with a massage parlour, disco, KTV and a mini casino. Price is on the expensive side but it is a sight to behold.
* Eden, De Tham Street. Often busy, full of sporties, revellers, expats and others. Dark and deep and reasonably priced for the backpacker main drag.
* Go2 Go2 Go2, De Tham (Allez Boo's sister bar). Cheesey decor and chart music, but always jammed with backpackers on the asian circuit and numerous white dreads with acoustic guitars. Has wi-fi.
* Heart Of Darkness [2], 17b Le Thanh Ton. Based on the Cambodian equivalent, this is a friendly mid-range bar. Broadly a dance-centric "teacher-friendly" expat bar, but plays to all-comers.
* Ice Blue, Dong Khoi. Downtown English pub, complete with darts board and warm beer (if you want it that way!). Friendly, but shuts at midnight.
* Juice, claims to be Saigon's first juice bar (of course it wasn't, there were many local places before - but maybe it was the first Western-managed one). Food slipped recently, but still a nice place to hang out. Has wi-fi.
* Level 23, Sheraton Saigon 23F. The latest on the 5-star hotel drinking scene, with separate bar and nightclub, and great views over the city. A little soulless though, and very pricey with most drinks 80000 dong.
* Lush, Ly Tu Trong. Vietnam's first half-way decent night club. Hugely expensive, but musically about as good as it gets in this part of the world. Mixed crowd (Vietnamese, tourists and expats), pretty good food - but no dance floor. Lots of billiards/pool tables out back.
* Napoli, Pham Ngoc Tach. Located in a villa on the first floor (above an ice cream parlour). Good live music with a mixture of Vietnamese and English songs. The resident band must predate the reunification as they know all the old songs.
* Oblivion, Bui Vien. Late night venue with lots of character, claims to be Saigon's premier music bar and it's hard to argue - assuming, that is, you have a taste for non-chart buzzy British guitar and obscure dark US/European stuff. You have to ask for happy pop, though if you're spending enough it'll sometimes get an outing. Like most Saigon bars, it attracts its share of working girls. If you're not interested, simply say you're not and you'll be left alone.
* Polo, Ham Nghi Street (above the Liberty Hotel). Mixture of expats and locals, starts getting busy quite early. Reasonably priced food and drink, good music spanning from the Eighties to the present.
* Saigon Pho, this little hole in the wall is only a stone's throw from Allez Boo, but much more expat orientated. Open late.
* Saigon Saigon, Caravelle Hotel 9F, 12-13 Lam Son Square. A pleasant bar for a nightcap with good views; but get there early if you want to avoid the execrable house band.
* Shadow Bar, Mac Thi Bui. Expat bar, good place to wind down or up.
* The Tavern SB8-1 My Khanh 2 (H4-2) Nguyen Van Linh, Saigon South (Phu My Hung) tel: 4120866. Great place to enjoy a cold beer or a great "Western" meal - favourite dishes are fish'n'chips & bangers'n'mash. Reasonable prices and nice, friendly staff and management. Opens for breakfast, closes at midnight.
* Underground - more a food than a drink spot, though open for both. Sometimes busy with the business crowd, always packed with people enjoying the reasonably priced burgers, steaks and the like.
* Peaches Saigon South (Phu My Hung) . Great place to enjoy a few drinks with friends .Friendly staff , great food!!
There are plenty of nice and cheap hotels available for tourists and also the high end names like Sheraton for the "business class" people. Do take note (especially lonely male travellers) that most hotels do not allow you to bring back a local female companion to stay overnight. Only exemptions are those seedier hotels mainly used for "other" businesses.
Area around Ben Thanh market along Le Thanh Ton and Ly Tu Trong has many reasonably priced hotels with clean rooms in the USD25-35 bracket; some provide free wi-fi.
* Ngoc Ha, 53, Le Anh Xuan. Close to Ben Thanh market and the New World Hotel. Clean and decent rooms, air-con, 'fridge, wi-fi in the lobby. Rooms USD25-35 including simple breakfast.
* Y Thien, 247 Ly Tu Trong; tel: (84-8) 824 8176. This full service hotel is 5 minutes from Ben Thanh Market and offers a range of rooms from tiny and windowless (yet functional) to quite nice with a full wall window overlooking the city and streets below (try the 4th floor room to the right of the elevator for USD20-25/night). Rooms are clean, bathrooms are large and recently upgraded (overkill on the shower remodeling). TV with cable, air-con, fan, 'fridge, elevator, all night guard for bikes, in hotel safe. If you don't want to stay in the backpacker area, and are willing to pay a little more, it's a good option.
Pham Ngu Lao in District 1 is the main backpacker hangout, just a short walk (10-15 minutes) from Ben Thanh Market.
* Hotel Bi Saigon, 185/26 Pham Ngu Lao (in alley #185) tel: 8360678 [3]. Not the cheapest hotel, with a "Superior" room for two costing USD27, but clean, comfortable and terrific staff. In-room Internet access is just USD3/day (bring your own laptop). The lobby houses the La Table De Saigon restaurant, great food and a perfect place to get a snack before heading out on the town.
* Nguyen Khang Hotel, 283/25 Pham Ngu Lao; tel: 8 373 566 nguyenkhanghotel@yahoo.com.vn - in a small alley that links Pham Ngu Lao and Do Quang Dau, along with several USD8-20 competitors of variable quality. This particular hotel has a nice vibe, kind staff, free Internet and free breakfast. Recently built (or remodeled), clean, tastefully simple in decoration, rooms have air-con, fan, 'fridge (and those at the front have nice large windows). USD15/day and under.
* Rainbow Hotel, 283/5 Pham Ngu Lao; tel: 8360039. Large bright (albeit somewhat worn) rooms, and those at the front have a nice view. Good value at 9 USD and under.
* The lanes and alleys in the area between Pham Ngu Lao and Bui Vien are jammed with 5-10 room mini-hotels offering prices around 6 USD. Don't be dismayed if every place seems full, you can be assured that vacancy is virtually unlimited at this price. Keep heading southwest away from the backpacker hustle closer Ng Thai Hoc, you'll likely find that as the alleys get smaller the rooms get quiter and owners more friendly.
Many of Saigon's historical hotels are in the hands of Saigontourist, the former state monopoly. Thanks to recent competition, service and facilities are adequate, although not quite up to modern standards; but if you want to experience a little colonial atmosphere, these remain far and away the best choices at the moment.
* Continental Hotel, 132-134 Dong Khoi Street, [4]. A perfectly located old-school colonial hotel dating back to 1880 and the setting of Graham Greene's The Quiet American (but not, alas, its filmatization). Lovely breakfast garden, huge rooms, nice balcony views and only slightly expensive at USD60 and up (taxes, service, breakfast included). On the minus side, there is no pool, and traffic noise can be irritating.
* Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue Boulevard, [5]. Ideally located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, next door to the People's Committee Hall. Another old standby, former haunt of the press corps and site of the daily news briefing during the Vietnam War. The 5th floor beer garden (Rooftop Garden) is famous and its symbol, the golden crown, is rotating again. Slightly more expensive at USD70 and up, but the rooms are very pleasant. There's a swimming pool on the roof and an excellent buffet breakfast.
Luxury hotels are popping up faster than mushrooms in the monsoon rains. Expect to pay closer to US$200 a night for any of these.
* Caravelle
* Hyatt.
* New World Saigon Hotel. Recently renovated, a single bedroom suite on the Executive Floor is US$250 including butler service, unlimited food/snacks/drinks during the day, and lavish buffet-style happy hour in the Executive Floor lounge every night. The nightly all-you-can-eat seafood buffet in the Park View Coffee Shop for USD20 is fantastic. On the downside, the rooms can be noisy as the windows are single pane and there is a busy street outside.
* Renaissance Riverside
* Sheraton Saigon. Complete with Prada shop in the arcade.
* Sofitel Plaza
* Hotel Majestic. 4 star hotel in District 1, at the waterfront at the end of Dong Khoi Street. It got its start in 1925, and though it has undergone a number of renovations since, it maintains the same basic look outside. Nice but expensive rooftop bar serving mediocre ice cream and drinks. Offers a non-smoking wing for those tired of smoke.
* Cu Chi Tunnels and boat trips on the Mekong Delta - the most popular excursion, and tirelessly advertised by countless agencies around the Pham Ngu Lao area
* Vung Tau - nearby city with great beaches, about 2 hours away by bus, or less by boat along the Saigon River
written by  garisti on June 1, 2008 from Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Phnom Penh is the capital and largest city of Cambodia. Despite its reputation as a 'rough' city, Phnom Penh is easy to get around and is a great introduction to Cambodia.
For western visitors, even those who have visited other Asian cities, Phnom Penh can be a bit of a shock. It can be very hot and (in the dry season) dusty, its infrastructure is lacking, and it is a very poor city - much poorer than, for example, Bangkok or Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). In the past the visitor who could not adjust to rubbish filled streets and large numbers of beggars could give Phnom Penh a miss.
But things are changing. The infrastructure is improving rapidly - fewer power outages, streets are paved, rubbish is collected more frequently - and the city retains much of the beauty that made it a Paris of the east before 1970. Beautiful wide boulevards, fine colonial architecture and a parklike riverfront with cafés and restaurants aplenty help make Phnom Penh a worthwhile destination. Not necessarily for its standard tourist sights, which are few. But as a place to relax, watch the streetlife and absorb local color Phnom Penh rates very high among Asian cities. The beggars are still there, along with a great number of street kids and kids selling tourist paraphernalia, but this is most visible in heavily touristed areas. And generally the touts and kids are less aggressive and persistent than say their Indian or Vietnamese counterparts.
Those who find themselves struggling with Phnom Penh's current state should recall the terrible times the city has been through in recent decades. In 1975 it was choked with up to 2 million refugees from the war between the then U.S.-backed government and the Khmer Rouge, and after it fell to the Khmer Rouge, it was completely emptied of civilians and allowed to crumble for the next four years. Most of the already small class of skilled professionals were murdered or driven into exile. The city fell to the Vietnamese Army in 1979, but the new Cambodian government had no money to spend on urban improvement until the peace settlement of 1992.
As Cambodia's economy has recovered a new rich class has arisen in Phnom Penh, and a crop of new hotels and restaurants has opened to accommodate them and the tourist trade; as yet however there's very little in between the extremely rich and the extremely poor. But here too there are changes in the wind; take a trip to the green-domed Sorya mall and you're transported to the consumerist world to which the emerging middle and upper classes aspire.
The free Phnom Penh Visitors Guide by Canby Publications (available from hotels/guesthouses and some restaurants) contains lots of good info on Phnom Penh, including accommodation/bar/restaurant/shop details, travel & transport options, maps, etc.
All of Phnom Penh's streets are numbered, although some major thoroughfares have names as well. The scheme is simple: odd-numbered streets run north-south, the numbers increasing as you head west from the river, and even numbers run west-east, increasing as you head south (with some exceptions, e.g. the west side of the Boeung Kak lake). House numbers, however, are quite haphazard. Don't expect houses to be numbered sequentially in a street; you might even find two completely unrelated houses with the same number in the same street.
See Cambodia for more information on getting into the country.
Departure taxes
International flights: US$25
Domestic flights: US$6
Both must be paid in US dollars cash. In theory, you can pay by credit card, but the option is usually unavailable.
Phnom Penh Airport (PNH), formerly but no longer called Pochentong, is Cambodia's largest international airport and most flights into the country pass through there. There are daily flights from all major regional airports (Bangkok, Hong Kong, Ho Chi Minh City, Singapore, Taipei) as well as from Luang Prabang in Laos. Airlines include Bangkok Airways, Lao Aviation, Shanghai Airlines, Thai Airways, Silk Air, Dragon Air, among others. Malaysian low-cost carrier Air Asia has daily flights from Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur. The new terminal is a thoroughly pleasant and modern facility, and features a post office, bank (including ATMs), restaurants, duty-free shop, newsstand, tourist help desk, and business center.
Visas are available on arrival at the airport, and the process is easy if a little cumbersome: queue once to submit passport and visa application, once more to pay and pick it up, and only then proceed to immigration. Fees must be paid with USD notes; one passport photo is required (or else a US$1 surcharge must be paid). Single entry 30 day tourist visas cost US$20 (can be extended once only, to 60 days total). Single entry 30 day business visas cost US$25 (can be extended indefinitely, and become valid for multiple entries after the first extension).
The airport is about 11km from the city centre (Sisowath Quay). Taxis from the public taxi stand at the airport cost a flat US$7. Pay the fare at the taxi desk inside the door exiting the terminal, at which point you will be allocated a driver. Alternatively, you will find plenty of drivers immediately outside the exit from the terminal building. For visitors on a budget without a lot of luggage, it's worth catching an official moto for US$2, or walking out to the main road to save even more.
There are bus services to Phnom Penh from Poipet (on the border with Thailand) and from Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam ($8-10, 5-6 hours), as well as from points throughout Cambodia. Two of the largest bus companies, Sorya (formerly Ho Wah Genting) and GST, both arrive and depart from the rather chaotic "station" at the southwest corner of the Central Market. Capitol Tours runs buses throughout Cambodia and onward to Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta, where they link up with Vietnam travel giant Sinh Cafe. Advance bookings are advisable, and can also be sorted out by most travel agents and guesthouses for a token fee.
Many travellers arriving from Thailand break their journey with a detour to Siem Reap, site of the ruins of Angkor. Most buses depart from/to Siem Reap in the early morning, a few more follow around noon; the journey takes about 5 hours. There are also frequent services to Sihanoukville. Basic air-con bus fares start around US$3-4; double-deckers with comfy seats, toilets, drink, food and bus-hostess charge up to US$10.
Ferries connect Phnom Penh to Siem Reap; tickets for foreigners typically cost US$20-30. Many (but not all) of these ferries offer the option of sitting on the roof, which makes for a much more scenic - although much less comfortable - ride than the bus ; take sunblock, a hat, and enough water to last you for several hours in case the boat gets stuck (12 hour boat rides are not unheard of).
Fast boats leave every morning around 8am from Chau Doc in Vietnam's Mekong Delta and take 5 hours to reach Phnom Penh. The boats make the return journey the same day and leave Phnom Penh around 1 PM arriving in Chau Doc in the early evening.
There is a very slow, once-weekly train service between Phnom Penh and Battambang via Pursat. The journey is scheduled to take 14 hours but may be much longer, even though the distance by rail is only 275 km. It costs US$5 one-way for foreigners.
Phnom Penh to Battambang : Saturdays, departs 06:20, arrives 20:00
Battambang to Phnom Penh : Sundays, departs 06:40, arrives 19:00
Phnom Penh's main streets are in good shape; however other streets and footpaths are often rutted and pot-holed, clogged with garbage, stagnant water, parked motos, sleeping people, livestock and building materials. Many smaller streets either lack signage or bear misleading signs, however, Phnom Penh is logically laid out (see orientation) and navigating the city is not difficult if you know where you're going.
* Motorbikes (but not self-drive cars) are available for rent, however traffic is chaotic and public transport may be safer for casual visitors.
* Motorbike-taxis (motodops/motodups in local parlance) are ubiquitous and will take you anywhere for a small fare. A trip from Sisowath Quay to Central Market costs about 2,000 riel (50 US cents). Fares are higher at night and with more than one passenger.
* Taxis are available at a few locations - most notably outside the Foreign Correspondents Club on Sisowath Quay. Taxis do not have meters, and fares must be agreed in advance. Fares vary, due to fluctuating fuel prices; ask hotel/guesthouse staff for assistance (hotels and guesthouses will organise taxis on request).
* Tuk-tuks Cambodian-style consist of a motorcycle with a cabin for the passengers hitched to the back. They are cheaper than taxis and offer a scenic experience of the city. Their clientele is exclusively tourists, and most drivers speak some English.
* Cyclos are three-wheeled cycle-rickshaws. Considerably slower then a motodop, and gradually becoming less common in the city, they are still popular with locals and foreigners alike. The nature of the seat lends itself to a quick and easy way to transport all manner of goods from one place to another, even other cyclos and the occasional motorbike as well.
* Walking can be a challenge, as cars and motos do not stop for pedestrians. To cross safely, judge gaps in the traffic and proceed with care - give oncoming vehicles ample time to see and avoid you, or try to cross with the brightly coloured and revered monks. There is almost no street lighting off the major boulevards, and walking at night is not recommended.
Sisowath Quay as seen from FCC
* Sisowath Quay is an attractive boulevard running along the banks of the Mekong and Tonle Sap, and is fronted by a pleasant park. The built-up side of the street is home to cafés and shops and the better class of bar, and is extremely popular with tourists and expat Westerners. The esplanade along the river is equally popular with Cambodians, who come here in the cool of the evening to enjoy the quasi-carnival atmosphere. It begins at the Royal Palace (or rather, at the river-front park opposite the Palace), and is perhaps best experienced in the early evening. See A Stroll on Sisowath Quay for a self-guided tour.
* The Royal Palace and the two magnificent pagodas in the Palace Grounds, the Silver Pagoda and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, are among the few public buildings in Phnom Penh really worth seeing. They were built in the 19th century with French technology and Cambodian designs, and have survived the traumas of the 20th century amazingly intact. See them early before it gets too hot. They are in any case closed 11:00-14:00, when all sensible Cambodians take a nap. Entrance fee is $3 for both, plus $2 for a camera or $5 for a video camera. No photography is allowed inside the Silver Pagoda and some of the Palace buildings. You're expected to dress decently (no bare legs or shoulders), but you can rent sarongs and oversized T-shirts for a token 1000 riel (plus $1 deposit) at the entrance.
* The National Museum (opposite the Royal Palace; admission $3). Contains an excellent collection of art from Cambodia's "golden age" of Angkor, and a lovely courtyard at the center. The pleasant little park in front of the Museum is the site of the annual Royal Ploughing Ceremony, at which the success or otherwise of the coming harvest is determined. You may have heard stories of sightseers carrying umbrellas inside to avoid showers of bat droppings, but alas (?), the bats moved out after the renovation of 2002.
* Wat Phnom (admission $1) is on a hill at the center of a small park near Sisowath Quay, on St. 94. The temple itself is notable more for its historic importance than what you'll see there today, but the park is a pleasant green space and a popular gathering place for locals. A few monkeys keep quarters there as well and will help themselves to any drinks you've left unattended.
* Independence and Liberation memorials - impressive Buddhist-style Independence Memorial, commemorating the departure of the French in 1953, dominates the centre of the city. Nearby is the very ugly Stalin-style Liberation Memorial, marking the Vietnamese capture of the city in 1979. Although the Cambodians were glad to see the back of the Khmer Rouge, they don't like the Vietnamese much either, and have demonstrated this by neglecting the memorial for 20 years. It seems to be used mainly as a convenient urinal.
Tuol Sleng Prison
* Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21) (Street 113, Boeng Keng Kang 3, Chamkar Morn, Phnom Penh; tel. 855-23-300-698, fax 855-23-210-358) [1] was a school converted into Cambodia's most important prison in 1975. More than 14,000 people were tortured here before being killed at the Killing Fields south of Phnom Penh; only 8 prisoners made it out alive. The museum is easily accessible and a must-see for everyone interested in Cambodia's horrific recent past. The infamous "skull map" has been dismantled, although there are still skulls stacked in cabinets, implements of torture and disturbing photographs. For a introduction and further reading, try David Chandler's "Voices from S-21" (ISBN 0520222474).
o The Documentation Center of Cambodia (66 Preah Sihanouk Blvd. P.O. Box 1110 Phnom Penh; tel. 855-23-211-875, fax 855-23-210-358) [2] manages the museum as part of its mission to record the history of the Khmer Rouge and gather evidence, should any Khmer Rouge leaders ever be brought to trial.
The Killing Fields
* The Killing Fields at Cheoung Ek, about 17km south of Phnom Penh, is where the Khmer Rouge killed many thousands of their victims during their four-year reign of terror. Today the site is marked by a Buddhist stupa packed full of human skulls - the sides are made of glass so the visitors can see them up close. There are also pits in the area where mass graves were unearthed. It is a serene yet somber place.
* Stung Meanchey Garbage Dump, [3]. Where hundreds of the poorest of the poor, including many small children, swarm over the refuse hoping to find anything of value. A certain type of tourist visits this place - if it's you, make sure you stop by the NGO "Pour sourire un enfant" [4], which helps the children of this place, and make a donation.
[edit] Itineraries
* A Stroll on Sisowath Quay - a half-day tour connecting together sightseeing, eating and shopping
* Thunder Ranch is a shooting range near Cheoung Ek. Moto drivers, apparently oblivious to the reaction most visitors have, will try to include this in a trip to the killing fields. Rumors abound that cows and other farm animals used to serve as targets, but this is probably no longer the case. Prices range from USD30 for an AK-47 to USD200 for a rocket launcher.
As elsewhere in Cambodia, transactions are made in US dollars and in Cambodian riel, and only upmarket places will accept plastic. Take lots of low denomination US notes - notes above USD20 can be difficult to change. In place of coins you will get back riel, at a set exchange rate of 4000 to the dollar. There are a number of international ATM machines dispensing US currency around the city, including the Sisowath Quay tourist strip and in Sorya Market.
Popular tourist buys include Cambodian silk, local silverware, traditional handicrafts and curios (including Buddha figures), and made-to-order clothes.
The Art Deco dome of the Central Market
* Central Market (in Cambodian called Psar Thmei - "New Market") is a 1930s Art Deco covered market near the Riverfront (Sisowath Quay) district. The market is well set out, and sells everything from flowers to video games. Sorya market, currently Phnom Penh's main Western-style mall, is nearby - less colourful that the traditional markets, but it is air-con and contains a range of cheap fast-food outlets as well as a well-stocked supermarket.
* Russian Market (Cambodian "Psar Toul Tom Poung" - it gained the "Russian Market" moniker following the Vietnamese occupation of the city in the 1980s, but many motodops are not familiar with the name) offers the opportunity to buy fake designer clothing, fake swiss watches and pirated software at low prices. It also has the best ice coffee in the city. Russian Market is located away from normal tourist areas, but motodop drivers who cater to tourists will know it.
Street 178, just north of the National Museum, is known as Artist Street and has many interesting boutiques.
* Colours of Cambodia, 373 Sisowath Quay. Handicrafts from around the country.
* Kravan House, #13 St. 178. Has a wide range of Cambodian silk products, including a wide range of ladies' handbags at a fraction of the price you would pay in a hotel gift shop.
* Stef's Happy Painting, Sisowath Quay (near St. 178, directly under FCC), [5]. Features brightly-colored fun and funky paintings of Cambodian life - a welcome relief after visiting some of Cambodia's more heart-breaking attractions.
Antiques dealers in Phnom Penh are an unscrupulous lot and may sell goods that theoretically should not be exported from Cambodia. See Heritage Watch [6] for listings of bad apples.
* Hidden Treasures, #9 Street 148, has antiques, art and curios from Cambodia's past and nearby South-East Asian cultures.
Phnom Penh offers some interesting culinary treats you won't find elsewhere in the country. Many of these include French-influenced dining as well as Thai, Vietnamese, and modern takes on traditional Cambodian dishes. The standard pizza-banana pancake-fried rice backpacker fare is also always easy to find.
The best area to wander is along the riverfront where everything from stand-up stalls to fine French bistros can be found. Take great care eating from stalls, however. Peeled fruit and vegetables and anything uncooked should be regarded with suspicion.
Take the cross river ferry to sit on mats and eat cheap hawker food while watching the sunset over the city.
* Jungle Bar and Grill [7], 273B Sisowath Quay, next to Riverside Bistro, has a varied international menu at very reasonable prices and a great happy hour. Free Internet and a great music selection.
* La Croisette, corner of Sisowath Quay and Street 144, is a French sidewalk café that's open all day.
* Setsara Thai Restaurant, #3D Street 278, is a very nice little Thai restaurant with a really good Thai chef, good music, reasonable prices and good service though a bit slow sometimes. They have some good French specialties as well.
* Bali Café, 379 Sisowath Quay, has pretty good Indonesian food. Try the Tahu Telur (Fried Tofu with Eggs). Be careful ordering water or you'll get the small plastic bottle of Evian - at USD3!
* Equinox [8] on Street 278 (near Street 51) has now opened a pretty good restaurant. Pizzas, baguettes, burgers, pastas and some more western specialities on the menu. Great indoor outdoor ambiance. Meat and salads come from a local organization who encourage and teach farmers in organic growing methods.
* Friends Restaurant, #215 Street 13 (50m north of the National Museum) is run by and for a non-profit that rehabilitates Cambodia's street children, and does delicious international tapas and main dishes.
* Frizz restaurant, #335, Sisowath Quay [9] has traditional Cambodian cuisine, and also operates the Cambodia Cooking Class [10].
* Garden Center Café, #23 Street 57 [11] is a garden setting café/restaurant that's popular with local ex-pats.
* Khmer Surin, #11 Street 57 (south of Sihanouk Boulevard) is a rather romantic restaurant that serves delicious Khmer and Thai food. The traditional Khmer seafood dish, amok, stands out.
* Lazy Gecko, #23B Street 93, Boeung Kak Lake, does a REALLY good hamburger, and a percentage of their profits go to Janine's Childrens Orphanage.
* Le Duo, Street 322 (between Monivong and Street 63) has excellent Italian food. Sicilian-born Luigi makes great pastas and pizzas.
* Metro Café, on the corner of Sisowath Quay and Street 148 (opposite Riverside Bistro), is a stylish fusion of Asian and Western culture. Air-con. Good selection of small tapas-style dishes from USD1 and a great steak (about USD12).
* Paris Bubble Tea, 285-287 Preah Monivong (not far from the New York Hotel) tel 023 990 373; is pleasant and has fun and refreshing Bubble Tea. Try the classic Pearl Milk Tea.
* Riverside Bistro, #273a Sisowath Quay [12] occupies an old colonial style building and features comfortable outdoor dining with brilliant views of the Tonle Sap. Popular with local expats, tourists and local affluent Khmers. Try Khmer's "root of lotus".
* 102, 1A, St. 102 (one block south of Le Royal), tel. 023-990-880. Probably Phnom Penh's top French restaurant, set in a modern, European-style surroundings. The food is quite competent and the onion soup is superb. Almost entirely undiscovered by tourists but popular with Phnom Penh's moneyed elite, so reservations recommended. $30.
* FCC (Foreign Correspondents Club), 363 Sisowath Quay. Modern colonial-style charm, superb views of the river and is a favourite expat hang-out that does particularly good desserts. Their signature cocktails, Tonle Sap Breezer and Burmese Rum Sour ($4.50 each), are also worth a quaff.
* Le Bistrot, #4D, Street 29 - French and Italian in an old villa.
* Xiang Palace (Hotel Intercontinental) Chinese - expensive fine dining, dim sum.
Superficial security
Most of the time, Phnom Penh bars and clubs are safe enough and a lot of fun - however, some of the more "hip" places are popular with the notorious local "elite" youth (and their minders) who carry firearms and other weapons, and who are allowed to pass through so-called "security" checks without being searched.
Places to hang out after dark include Street 104, Street 278, and Street 108 around the Street 51 corner, which all feature restaurant bars, hostess bars, and guesthouses.
* Barbados, south of Street 104 near the river, is a hostess bar. Buy 5 beers and get 1 free.
* DV8 Bar & Guesthouse [13] on Street 148 (near the riverfront) is a popular hostess bar with a good selection of spirits and a pool table on the 2nd floor - great if you're a single guy. Good accommodation on the premises.
* Elephant Bar, Raffles Le Royal. The classy bar at the classiest hotel in town, with frescos on the ceiling and live piano in the evenings. Try the Femme Fatale, a mix of cognac and champagne dreamed up for Jacqui Kennedy in 1967. Expensive.
* Elsewhere on Street 51 is an ex-pat hang-out with platform seating surrounding a small pool, in a French colonial villa. Big party first Friday of every month, when the place is packed.
* Equinox [14] on Street 278 (near Street 51) is a cocktail bar featuring paintings by local artist Soumey and photo exhibits by Isabelle Lesser, gaming room with a pool table and the unique bonzini foosball table of Phnom Penh, cool tunes, good food. Increasingly popular with expats.
* Golden Vine on street 108 next to VooDoo Lounge. Hostess bar with pole dancing and good food. Sunday roast recommended.
* Heart of Darkness has long been the most infamous nightclub in Phnom Penh, closed in August 2005 after a patron was shot to death but is now back in business. Some seating is reserved for well-heeled (gangster elite) Phnom Penh local youth, so move if you are asked. While certainly not the safest place in the world, more nights go by without incident than not. A number of expats avoid it now, however. Saturday nights are always packed.
* Martini Pub & Disco on Street 95 (one block off Monivong Blvd, across from the Total Gas Station) is an infamous girlie bar. Two full bars, food USD2-6, burgers & fries, pizza, Asian dishes, gaming room, disco, outdoor big-screen showing movies or sports. There some copycat Martini bars in other places like Sihanoukeville and Siem Reap, but this is the original. A place for single men and loose ladies.
* Monsoon Wine Bar on Street 104 is an intimate, cosy wine bar. Try a glass of wine from the well-chosen international wine list or nibble on something from the small but excellent Pakistani menu. Chilled vibe, cool tunes, friendly service.
* OneZeroFour Bar [15] on Street 104 is a popular low-key hostess bar, one of the few bars in Phnom Penh with a foosball table.
* Pit Stop on Street 51 is a popular hostess bar.
* Rubies on Street 240 is a wine bar favoured by young ex-pats working for local NGOs. Busy with a cliquey atmosphere on a weekend night.
* Sharky's Bar & Restaurant, #126 Street 130, Phnom Penh [16] Since its opening in 1995, Sharky's has been rocking & rolling. Located upstairs on the first floor above street level, Sharky's boasts a large space, huge center bar, outside balcony, and plenty of available seating. Most moto taxis will understand "Shockeee Bah". It's about three 1/2 blocks from the "Psar Thmei" (new market).
* Sugar Shack [17] on Sothearos (the street in front of the National Museum and Palace) is a classy little hostess bar featuring a nice wine selection.
* VooDoo Lounge on Street 51 near street 108 is a new bar with a great range of drinks, nice decor, air-con, happy hostesses, and a pool table. Two other hostess bars nearby.
* Walkabout on Street 51 has food and good pool tables. Many freelance girls congregate here. Popular after hours bar, also has rooms available. Open 24 hours.
* Zanzibar on Street 104 is high energy hostess bar with reasonable prices and a pool table upstairs, that's very popular among expats.
* Zapata Bar on Street 108 next to VooDoo Lounge is a stylish air-con hostess bar with a good range of drinks, and no pool table or food to distract you from the lovely ladies.
Phnom Penh has a wide variety of accommodation, ranging from budget guesthouses (about USD5-20) through good quality mid-range hotels (USD20-50) to extravagant palaces (with extravagant prices to match).
Boeung Kak Lake, Phnom Penh
Low-cost backpacker accommodation is becoming more abundant by the week. Most is clustered either near the riverfront or at Boeung Kak Lake.
* DV8 Guesthouse & Bar, #7 Street 148; tel. 012 620 441 / 012 776 885 [18] is a small boutique guesthouse located just off the riverfront; ground floor bar, second floor pool table. Rooms USD5-25.
* King Guesthouse, 141th Street, off Sihanouk Avenue; tel. 012 220 512; has ample rooms available to suit your budget. Provides own daily bus service to and from Ho Chi Minh City.
* Number Nine Guesthouse, #9 Street 93 Boeung Kak Lake; tel. 012 766 225 / 012 935 813 - well known and popular. Excellent sunsets by the lake. Rooms USD2-4
* Number Nine Sister Guesthouse, tel. 012 424 240 - just around the corner from, but not as nice as, the original.
* Rory's Guesthouse, #33 Street 178 (facing the Royal Palace and National Museum and 100 meters from the riverfront) tel. 012 425 702 [19] - rooms USD10-30.
* Simon's Guesthouse, #11 Street 93 Boeung Kak Lake, tel. 012 884 650. Tricky to find but the layout of the rooms (with bathrooms or shared) allows for a nice, cool breeze. Rooms USD2-3.
* Top Banana Guesthouse, #2 Street 278 [20] - A very laid back guesthouse with a cozy atmosphere and a wanderlust feel. Rooms for as low as five dollars a night, and suprisingly good food.
* Capitol 3 Guesthouse, #207Eo, Street 107, Sangkat Beng Prolit, 7 Makara, Phnom Penh; tel. 023 211 027. Next to the Capitol Tours office and a terrific value at $4 per night. Warm, friendly staff and quick laundry service. Five floors of squeaky-clean rooms that are out of the direct sunlight and never seem to get too hot - no elevators, though.
* California 2 Guesthouse, 317 Sisowath Quay (on the riverfront, close to Wat Ounalom) [21] has nice clean rooms with bathroom, air-con, 'fridge, TV. Laundry service. USD15-25 including breakfast.
* Golden Gate Hotel, #9 Street 278, Sangkat Beng Keng Kang 1, Khan Chamkarmorn (near the Independence Monument) tel. +855 23 427618, [22] is a reliable place to stay with a range of hotel rooms, from USD15 for a single in the older block to USD40 or more for a suite in the new block. Clean, safe and comfortable. Great place for long-term stays, with discounted rates. Restaurants, shops and Internet cafés within walking distance.
* Paragon Hotel, 219B Sisowath Quay. Riverfront, near lots of good cafés. Rooms have bathroom, a/c, tv, fridge. No breakfast, but close to restaurants that serve breakfast. USD15-30.
There are a surprising number of 4 and 5 star hotels in Phnom Penh.
* Intercontinental Hotel, Mao Tse Tung Blvd. A favourite among visiting dignitaries, but rather out of the way in the southwest corner of the city.
* Phnom Penh Hotel, Monivong Blvd (just south of the French Embassy). Newly renovated with very nicely appointed rooms and suites.
* Raffles Le Royal, 92 Rukhak Vithei Daun Penh (off Monivong Blvd), tel. +855 23 981 888, fax. +855 23 981 168, [23]. Phnom Penh's grand old hotel, originally built in 1929 by the French, used as a dry fish store by the Khmer Rouge but given a loving redecoration by the Raffles group in 1999. Walking distance to Wat Phnom and the river, excellent service, wonderful attention to detail and the "Landmark" rooms in the old wing still use bathtubs and even light switches from 1929 (plus broadband internet and walk-in showers). $150/300 low/high season.
[edit] Telephone
[edit] Internet
There is no shortage of Internet cafés in Phnom Penh. Most are in the 1,500 riel/hour bracket (a little under 50 US cents), but provide slow service, suffer occasional power outages and do not run firewalls or anti-virus programs.
* Sunny Internet, 178 Street (opp Foreign Correspondents Club), also Sisowath Quay (next to the Riverstreet restaurant). Provides a faster service at USD1/hour and is popular with tourists and expats.
Wireless and wired connections for laptops are available at a number of outlets - most five-star hotels (which provide high-speed broadband access, but at a premium), and a number of cafés along Sisowath Quay including the Foreign Correspondents Club, Fresco Café (under the FCC), K-West Café (at the Amanjaya Hotel), the Jungle Bar and Grill, and Phnom Penh Café (near Paragon Hotel).
[edit] Post
[edit] Stay healthy
Phnom Penh has a partly deserved bad reputation. In the old days Phnom Penh was a rather dangerous place. Things have changed a lot but there are still more bad guys with guns than you might find in some other Asian cities. Official figures (almost certainly underestimates) report an average of 50 incidents per month (Cambodians and foreigners), leading to 5 deaths and 10 serious injuries. Most commonly Cambodians are victimised for their cell phones or motorbikes. Violent interactions with tourists are rare. Still, avoid walking at night, try to find a dependable moto driver and don't carry more than necessary. Bag-snatching by thieves on bikes is common so if you must carry a bag, try to keep it on the side facing away from the street. This is a particular problem outside popular ex-pat hang-outs (e.g. Elsewhere) on a weekend night. Some moto-dop drivers may be in league with the thieves. Moto drivers who work the riverside are generally quite reliable. In terms of personal safety the greatest danger in Phnom Penh is not getting robbed by hoods at gunpoint, but rather getting whacked by a motorbike in the chaotic traffic. Exercise common sense in your travels around the city and you should be alright.
Sihanoukville, Battambang, Siem Reap and Angkor are within a few hours' reach; see above. Some companies also offer services to Kampot and Bokor National Park.
Several tour companies offer day-trips to Tonle Bati, which includes Ta Prohm, an Angkor-era temple not to be mistaken for the Angkor-area temple of the same name.
written by  garisti on July 1, 2008 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Siemreab, Cambodia
The town of Siem Reap, in northern Cambodia, is the primary access point for the Angkor Archaeological Park.
city map of Siem Reap
Siem Reap, literally "Siam Defeated", commemorates a Khmer victory over the neighboring kingdom of Thailand. These days, however, the only rampaging hordes are the tourists heading to Angkor and this once quaint village has become the largest boomtown and construction site in Cambodia. It's quite laid-back and all in all a pleasant place to stay while touring the temples. It's a nice compromise between observing Cambodian life and enjoying the amenities of modern services and entertainment, thanks to the large expatriate community in Siem Reap. As business has increased, so have the numbers of people wanting your custom. Expect to receive almost constant offers for motodop and tuk-tuk rides, along with everything else which drivers may be able to offer to you.
Be sure to pick up your free Siem Reap Angkor Visitors Guide from your hotel/guesthouse. It contains lots of info on Siem Reap and Angkor, including hotel/bar/restaurant/shop info, travel info, maps, etc.
Siem Reap - Angkor International Airport (IATA: REP | ICAO: VDSR) [1] has frequent flights from Phnom Penh and several flights weekly to Sihanoukville. Internationally, there are direct flights to/from Laos (Pakse | Vientiane | Luang Prabang), Malaysia (Kuala Lumpur), Singapore, Taiwan (Kaohsiung | Taipei), Thailand (Bangkok | U-Tapao/Pattaya) and Vietnam (Danang | Ho Chi Minh City). Low-cost carriers Air Asia and Jetstar Asia now fly to Siem Reap from Kuala Lumpur and Singapore respectively, but the popular route to Bangkok is still monopolized by Bangkok Airways, which charges accordingly.
Visa on Arrival costs US$25 (children US$10), US$2 more if you've forgotten to bring a colour photo. The airport is less than 15 minutes from the town centre by car (US$5) or motodop (US$4 or less).
There are separate terminals for international and domestic flights. International departure tax is a steep US$25 (children US$13), payable after check-in and before clearing immigration. Often this can only be paid in cash, as the credit card facility is unreliable. Airport fee upon departure on national flights, to Phnom Penh, is US$6.
[edit] By land
Cambodian highways have improved considerably in the last few years (although there's still plenty of room for further improvement) and some routes that were once epic adventures are now sealed roads. For most routes you have the basic options of chartering or sharing a Toyota Camry taxi, sharing a ride in a pickup truck, or if it's a sealed road, taking the bus.
[edit] From Bangkok
Street between Siem Reap and the border town Poipet (March 2006)
The most popular and direct overland route from Bangkok is via the Aranyaprathet/Poipet border crossing.
From Bangkok to Aranyaprathet, either take a 1st class public bus from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal (frequent departures, 160-207 baht) or else travel by train from Bangkok's Hualamphong Train Station (two trains each way daily, all 3rd class, 48 baht).
From Aranyaprathet bus or train station, continue by tuk-tuk (50-60 baht) to the border market, and cross the border to Poipet on foot.
The road from Poipet to Siem Reap is not sealed, hence the condition varies seasonally and much depends on when it was last re-graded - for recent reports see Latest Road Conditions between Siem Reap and Poipet.
Whichever route you take, beware of scams, touts and pickpockets at the Poipet border crossing. See the Poipet article for information on the irritating Visa on Arrival process. Once you're through all of that, take the free shuttle bus from outside the entry stamp office in Poipet to the transpotation depot about 1 km away. Tourist travel in Poipet is currently run by an unofficial monopoly, unfortunately, and you're not allowed to bargain directly with drivers.
The fastest and most comfortable way to get from Poipet to Siem Reap is by Toyota Camry share taxi - US$60 for the whole car ($35 for the driver, $10 for the government, $15 for the monopoly) - in which case the entire trip from Poipet to Siem Reap could take less than 3.5 hours on an good day. The car can be shared by up to four people.
If US$60 is too much, you can take the official bus for US$10/person. The bus leaves when full - and only then, even if it takes a few hours - and can take about 15 people, with all the bags on the back seat. Extra people will be squeezed onto the back seat if necessary, which might not be so comfortable. Two fold down seats in the centre aisle are also not so comfortable. The trip is advertised as taking 3-5 hours, but in reality it takes at least 6 hours when the road is not too bad. An enforced stop after 2 hours at a restaurant can add to the time of the trip, depending on how long the driver wants to stay. There is the possibility of additional delays (e.g. "mechanical faults") and these are almost certainly due to the same reasons as the Khao San scam-bus: getting you to Siem Reap late, tired and ready to take whatever guesthouse you're delivered to.
If even this is too much, you can try to hop on the back of a pick-up truck for a fraction of the price, but these are now hard to arrange from Poipet, due to the travel monopoly operating there. Also, the ride is a lot more uncomfortable, takes longer and may require a change of vehicle at Sisophon.
Alternatively, you could join the backpacking masses and pay a couple hundred baht for an uncomfortable bus ride directly from Khao San Road all the way to Siem Reap; any travel agent in Bangkok will be happy to sell you a ticket. Buses leave Khao San Road around 8am and arrive in Siem Reap between 5pm and 3am. How long it takes exactly does not really depend on road conditions, but on the mood of the driver. Because he can "sell" you to a guesthouse in Siem Reap he will try to arrive there as late as possible, because if you are tired and afraid of walking around in Siem Reap late at night, his chances increase that you will stay at the guesthouse of his choice. (There is no obligation to stay, regardless of what the guesthouse owners tell you.) Even if you start in Bangkok on a big aircon bus, you will almost certainly find yourself in the back of a pickup or stuffed minibus for the Cambodian part of the journey. For the return trip, expect to pay around US$11.
If you arrive in Poipet the Khao San Road buses, you'll be swarmed by offers of extra help and assurances that you're better off paying 1000 baht (US$30) or even more for the visa - which should cost US$20. Stand your ground - the bus won't leave without you, because the driver wants the guesthouse commission you represent.
[edit] From Phnom Penh
Roadside Petrol Cambodia-style
There are several bus companies that you can take to get from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. The most popular bus companies with tourists include Capitol Transport, GST, and Mekong Express. Each bus company leaves from a different location, although there are many located around the Central Market. Nearly all of the bus companies have buses leaving at 7:30am and 12:30pm, and the trip costs US$3-6. Expect to get to Siem Reap in 5-7 hours. In contrast to the Siem Reap-Poipet road, the entire road is paved, making for a much more comfortable ride. If you're driving yourself, watch out for the make-shift patrol pertol stations next to the road, selling petrol in olg 2 litre Coke bottles. Much cheaper than the real thing, but who knows what the quality is...
Fast, Soviet style Hydrofoils also make the journey from Phnom Penh across the Tonle Sap lake. Asking price for a "foreigner" ticket is typically US$20-25, US$15 is a good price to pay. There are also services between Siem Reap and Battambang (asking price US$15, pay US$10).
These can be fantastic trips which give travellers the opportunity to view life on the lake, floating houses, fishermen going about their work, and to get a sun tan if you choose to sit on the roof of the boat. However if you travel on a windy day and you have not kept waterproofs and sunscreen out of your luggage you could be in trouble. These journeys take anywhere from five to eight hours and without waterproofs and sunscreen you will become incredibly cold and will be burned by the sun at the same time. As the boat is generally packed with travellers, those on the roof will have to stay up there, and once your bags are in the hold, they stay there.
If you are planning a week long trip in Siem Reap, the boat journey is fine, but if you are only planning two to three days, I would advise taking the bus. If you are specifically taking the boat to see the floating village, don't. The floating village is at the very end of the boat journey. You could ride the bus from Phnom Penh, get a guest house, take a tuk-tuk to the port, tour the floating village, and be back in Siem Reap before your friends arrive from Phnom Penh by boat.
A word of caution: If you find yourself taking the boat/bus and person asks for your name to have his friend pick you up, he is in actuality selling your name to a tuk-tuk driver in Siem Reap. This is a fairly convenient way to get from the port to Siem Reap, just be prepared for an extremely hard sell to one of his select guest houses, restaurants, etc. If you just "roll with it" he will take you to a guest house and you will quoted US$10 for a normally priced US$6-8 room. Since the tuk-tuk driver has now pinned you for a "sucker", he will try to sell you on his services to the temples for about US$20-25 a day. Be firm, and negotiate, they will bend towards the market rate. You'll never really be ripped off, but keep in mind that if you are staying for longer than four days, that tuk-tuk surplus would be much better served through a charitable donation.
Along the Siem Reap River
* Most of the sights in Siem Reap can be seen on foot. For the foot-sore and sun-weary, you'll have plenty of offers from locals on motorbikes. Only the longest rides should be more than US$1 though prices go up at night. Simply agree a price and hop on the back.
* Another excellent way to see Siem Reap is by bicycle. Most guesthouses provide them free for "round town" use, or US$1 (single speed) - US$2 (with gears) per day. It's also a good way to see Angkor Wat on your own, but leave early to avoid the mid-day heat.
* Guesthouses can usually arrange a driver and car for you; this works out at about US$20-25 per day and is a good way to visit the temples if time is short. Ask for Mith Bundy (Tel: 012 942 561) for a very friendly driver with basic (but workable) English skills.
* Alternatively, you can rent a motorbike with driver for a full day for US$8-10 or so. The driver should be able to provide you with a helmet if you'd like one. Wear a handkerchief across the mouth / nose as the roads can be very dusty!
Note: The rental of motorbikes to tourists (expatriates, however, are allowed) in Siem Reap is prohibited. However, foreigners can ride motorbikes they've rented elsewhere (eg Phnom Penh).
* Tuk tuk drivers can be hired for US$10-15/day to take you wherever you like, they will arrange meeting places with you or wait where you tell them to. They are a great way of see the surrounds without the barrier of a car window! A word of advice, pay them for their services after everything you have arranged is completed. For example, if you arrange for a later trip to the airport and pay them, chances are that you will have to find another ride.
* An additional and very convenient way to get around the area, and also get to and from the airport, is to use an 'official taxi', which are available at the airport for the fee of US$7 to the city and payable to the counter at the airport. Whilst in the taxi you will be offered the services of the car and the driver for US$25/day, which is very good value if you want to visit several temples in one day. They also have the added luxury of air conditioning, which you will be craving after walking around temples for a couple of hours The US$25/day is payable directly to the driver, who will speak English, have had training, will have a proper driving license and also have knowledge of the temples and surrounding area. The Tourist Transport Association [2] also have an office just behind the tourist information office in Siem Reap, which you can contact if you have any questions or queries. All other services and prices are listed on the back of the receipt you receive when you pay the US$5 at the airport for the trip into town.
The reason most people come to Siem Reap is the Angkor Archaeological Park, and is thoroughly covered on its own page.
Piles of mines, Landmine Museum
* Landmine Museum, [3]. Located a bumpy 15-min ride from the main road to Angkor (any motodop or tuk-tuk driver will know), this jungle shack was set up by local deminer Aki Ra to educate locals and tourists about the dangers of land mines. Piles of defused mines and UXO lie around the site and the guides are mostly teenagers who were orphaned or injured by mines, all now living nearby. A very worthwhile trip that brings home the scale of the problem and shows you a slice of "real" Cambodia. Free entry, but donations very welcome — everything will be used for mine clearance.
* A short distance outside of the city center, there is a small bone stupa to mark the Khmer Rouge killing fields that were near Siem Reap. There is no cost to enter, but donations are requested, as the temple that hosts the memorial is under expansion.
* An alternative trip when you are feeling 'templed out' is to visit the Tonle Sap lake a few miles from town and take a boat trip past the floating villages. The fast hydrofoil to Phnom Penh also passes this way.
Kampong Phluck
* The silk worm farm is worth the hike. Again, ask any tuk-tuk driver.
* Kampong Phluck, off the Highway to Phnom Penh, is only reachable by motorbike and then boat, and is a much more authentic 'floating village experience' than the one close to the Tonlé Sap-ferry harbour. Enquire at your local hotel for a day trip to this fascinating village on stilts. This day trip should cost around US$30 and it takes about 2 hours to reach the village, depending on the road conditions and water level.
* Hidden Cambodia Dirt Bike Tours, Tel. + 855 (0)12 934 412 or (0)12 655 201, [4]. HCDBT offers once-in-a-lifetime opportunities to explore the countryside of Cambodia in a safe yet exciting way, by motorbike or 4-WD.
* Apsara Theatre, tel. +855-63-963-363. [5]. The only air-conditioned theater in town presents various traditional popular and classical dances and serves a set of local specialties. Booking recommanded !
* Another - albeit weird - solution to temple fatigue is offered at the army shooting range near Banteay Srei and Kbeal Span. An alarming amount of armament and explosives are available, and the only limit appears to be the cash you're willing to spend. Even a short round is pretty expensive (US$30 minimum), but listening to the soldiers-turned-used car salesmen put the hard sell on a new machine gun is almost worth the trip.
As usual in Cambodia, dollars and even Thai baht are preferred over riel for all purchases except the very smallest. There are a number of large, flashy souvenir shops around town, complete with temple-style decorations and a surplus of staff, which happily charge 2-5x the going price elsewhere in town and are best avoided.
Despite what you may be told at the Thai border, international ATMs in Siem Reap are plentiful, and banks can do cash advances from credit cards.
* Angkor Market, Sivatha Blvd. Siem Reap's closest thing to a supermarket, offering a good range of food, snacks, alcohol and even some souvenirs. Clearly marked, non-negotiable but reasonable prices.
* Psar Chas (Old Market), to the south of town. Sells a reasonably attractive collection of artifacts and tourist junk. Please don't buy anything purporting to be antique; it probably isn't, but it's stolen if it is.
* Central Market, at the corner of Sivatha Blvd and Achamean Street. Offers an eclectic collection of clothes and trinkets for good prices. Don't forget to bargain down the price. Most stalls carry the same selection so you can shop around and find the cheapest price. Many of the goods here cannot be found in Thailand.
Red Piano restaurant, Pub Street
There are many hundreds of restaurants in Siem Reap, and you will have no trouble finding something which suits your tastes and your budget. If you don't want to go out, most guesthouses have a basic restaurant attached, and can quickly whip up a decent fried rice.
For something a bit more special, head into town. There are whole streets catering for the travellers tastes, with pizzas, hamburgers, or tasty westernised offerings such as Amok and 'Khmer curry'. Many of the most authentic Karaoke-style restaurants are hidden in the backstreets, though your moto or tuk-tuk driver will no doubt know where to take you. He will be happy to wait (or join you) if you are really out in the boonies.
The street directly west of Pub Street is lined with lots of stalls offering simple yet filling meals for about a dollar apiece. The food is clean.
* Chiang Mai and Chivat Thai 2 on Wat Bo Rd offer basic Thai fare. Lunch sets start at US$1.50, dinner costs a bit more.
* The Markets - If you get tired of paying US$3 and up for just an ordnary lunch/dinner you may try one of the markets. You can get a whole meal for US$1 and below there.
* Angkor Famous on the small alley parallel to pub street offers tasty Thai and Cambodian fare at reasonable prices. Two-for-one beer specials and friendly staff.
Pub Street is best known as a watering hole, but it has also many nice restaurants that won't break the bank. Nearby you'll also find a whole range of pizzerias, including the original Happy Herbs Pizza, which depending on how the police are feeling that day either may or may not sell you cannabis-laced "happy" pizza. Don't try the "extra happy" unless you know what you're doing, and note that they will not sell you any herb without the pizza.
* Blue Pumpkin, Pub Street. Upscale, clean, air conditioned, wifi connection, need I say more.
* Khmer Family (formerly The Temple). Tasty and cheap local grub, although it's rather toned down for the foreign palate and often tastes like Thai food without the chillis. Pleasant, breezy second-floor balcony. Mains US$2-4.
* Khmer Kitchen, located in the alley behind bar street. Good value and very popular.
* Kama Sutra, Pub Street (opposite D's book shop). Authentic, yet slightly upmarket Indian food. Expect to pay around US$4-5 for a main course.
* Maharajah Next to CAB Bank, Old Market area, Tel: 092-506622 maharajahcuisine@yahoo.com [6] Royal Indian Cuisine - excellent new Indian restaurant just in the Old Market area just one street over from Pub Street. Very nicely prepared, very reasonably priced, 100% Halal Royal Indian dishes - uniquely spiced north Indian dishes with an emphasis on meat (chicken, beef, mutton, fish) dishes. There's also plenty of veg dishes to choose from. The Indian breads are excellent. 10:00-23:00
* Red Piano, Pub St. It has a well-known "Tomb Raider" cocktail and a good selection of Khmer as well as international dishes for US$3-5.
* Viva, Pub St. Siem Reap's first and only Mexican restaurant, with a menu containing just about everything you'd expect in your local TexMex restaurant. Good food, reasonable prices.
There are a few good options elsewhere in town. The numerous Karaoke restaurants offer a real authentic experience of modern Khmer dining. Try to sit far from the speakers, and prepare for mozzies. There is often no english menu, but one of the staff will no doubt be happy to help you order. Try phnom pleurng, a delicious cook-it-yourself beef barbecue. Another sensational dish, which is only available at these types of restaurants, is the trei bung gancheyt - a whole fish bubbling in a tasty peanuty sauce with green veggies.
* Café Moi Moi, Angkor Rd (to the left, after Meridien, before ticket booth). An unpretentious alfresco restaurant with a delightful little garden, serving up Khmer dishes, some traditional, some with a Japanese twist. Their version of amok, the classic dish of fish stewed in coconut milk, is cheap and tasty (US$3.50), while more adventurous diners can opt for minced pork mixed with the pungent Cambodian fish sauce prahok (US$3) and served with sliced raw onion to ease the pain. Nibble some pickles and sweet peanuts, try their famous pumpkin pudding for dessert and wash it all down with a large beer.
* Samapheap is a large and popular restaurant pleasantly located on the eastern riverbank a short hop down from Route 6, catering to both Khmers and tour groups. The menu is extensive, service is quick, prices are reasonable (most mains US$2-5) and the food is good.
* Abacus. Beautiful garden setting and a temple-stone bar. Renauld, the Maitre 'd, adds flair and style, and the excellent menu is a real treat. At around US$10 for a main, you might not be eating here every night, but it is well worth splashing out at least once.
* L'Angelo, Le Meridien. Probably Siem Reap's most daring restaurant, serving fusionesque Italian cuisine like foie gras on a bed of white asparagus and balsamic vinegar ice cream in a setting so achingly modern that the only decoration is a cloud of black dots on the white wall. There's a price to pay though: a full meal with a glass or two of wine on the side can easily set you back around US$100 for two.
* Meric, Hotel de la Paix. Acclaimed by some as the best Khmer restaurant in all Cambodia, it is set in a chic hotel with a minimalist modern feel. You are liable to forget where you are. The chefs here painstakingly source out the freshest (and strangest) ingredients to build their multi-course seasonal menu (US$28). A typical set will have you dining on dried snake salad and grilled frog, but rest assured, it all actually tastes good. Arrive before 9.15 for the four course prix-fixe Khmer meal with wine selection. Sit in airconditioned comfort, or outside tables and lounge furniture. The hotel also has a modern bar with local art displayed.
Most of Siem Reap's watering holes are concentrated in a few lanes north of Psar Chas (the old market), mainly on a street known appropiately as "Bar Street" or "Pub Street". Drinks usually US$2 and up, although most if not all bars have happy hours before 8 PM and draft Angkor often goes for as little as US$.50.
The Art House
* Angkor What?, Pub St. The pub that started it all, still going strong after ten years and covered in years of scribbled notes from travellers to prove it.
* Temple Club, Pub St. A popular western-orienated (But Khmer owned) nightclub featuring Angkorian decor, three free pool tables, and a rocking dance floor, it's not uncommon for this place to be open until sunrise. Inexpensive drinks
* FCC Angkor, (west river bank next to post office), [7]. Opened in October 2002, this is far and away Siem Reap's hippest place for a bite and a drink. A branch of the legendary Phnom Penh Foreign Correspondents' Club, the FCC offers food (~US$5) and drink (~US$3) in a marvelous blend of modern style and colonial architecture... if at a fairly steep price, at least by Cambodian standards.
* Le Tigre du Papier, Pub St. Free movies most evenings, a huge selection of used books upstairs and cheap shots of the aniseed liquor pastis. French-run.
* Linga Bar, the only officially gay-friendly bar in the village that attracts gay and straights alike. In the words of the owner, your grandmother would feel comfortable here. Great drinks opposite the markets, parallel to the "bar" street.
* Soup Dragon, Pub St. A restaurant/bar on one of the corners of the "bar" street in the old part of town. Great sunset vista from their rooftop with the added bonus being it is the same time as happy hour - two for one cocktails, drinks range from US$2-4. The food is mostly vietnamese, good and cheap plus they make their own ice cream.
* Warehouse/The Art House. Two bars for the price of one: downstairs has an appropriately warehouse-y feel with lots of red brick and a "Service Entrance", while upstairs is a clean white art gallery that also happens to serve drinks. Free draft beer offered at various times on Friday, though courtesy dictates you have a drink or two before or afterwards or dine from the food menu.
* Laundry Bar A popular French-owned expat hangout with a sophisticated setting and chilled atmosphere, this is definitely a late-night bar. It features a huge selection of music albums for sale at US$5 for 7 albums (On one MP3 disk). Free pool table.
Accommodations range from towering air-conditioned hotels by the airport (mostly for get-in-get-out all-inclusive tours) to local rooms-for-rent and a range of modest guesthouses in town, particular on and around Wat Bo road.
If you arrive with a tour bus or van you will be taken to a "suggested" guesthouse. Usually these are not too bad and you'll probably be too tired to argue.
If you arrive by plane, you may wish to contact a guest house in advance. They will then usually arrange for free transportation to their place. Otherwise just take a motorbike (US$1) or a taxi (US$2) to town. If you don't know any place to go to, they will ask for your budget and will then 'suggest' one.
* Earthwalkers, Sala Kanseng Village, 1,5 km from city centre just of Highway 6, tel. + 855 (0) 12 967 901, [8]. High quality budget accommodation with comfortable rooms with fan or A/C from US$4-17 with full en suite facilities.
* Two Dragons Guesthouse, Wat Bo, [9]. Guesthouse run by Gordon Sharpless of Tales of Asia fame. A/C, hot water, cable TV, and the self-proclaimed cleanest rooms in Cambodia, from US$7.
* Rosy Guesthouse, Slar Kram Village, tel. 012 916 930, 012 951 692. Rooms with fans, satellite TV and shower with hot water inside. Rates are US$5.
* Home Sweet Home Guesthouse, No. 0111 Wat Bo, tel. 063 760 279, [10]. Rooms with fans and shower inside are US$8, shared shower US$5.
* The Queen House Villa, No. 0209 Wat Damnak Street, Tel. 011221838, [11]. Big, clean rooms with fan, hot water, A/C, start from US$6. Free breakfast and bicycles. Just 2 Minutes from the center!
* Family Guest House, No. 019 Mondoul 2, Svay Dangkum, tel. +855 (0)12 841 864. Newly built concrete building with aircon and fan only rooms, TV and hot water available. Restaurant with good Khmer and western food. Start at US$6 (main season).
* The LyLy Guest House, No. 547, Svay Dangkum, tel. 012705959, email has rooms from 3 to 6 US$ and is run by a friendly family (speaking French and English).
* Mom's Guesthouse, #0099, Phom Wat Bo, [12]. One of the longer-running guesthouses in Siem Reap, now in a new if somewhat characterless building. Mom will be happy to make all sorts of travel and transport arrangements. Rates US$15/20/30 for air-con singles/doubles/triples with breakfast, hot water and airport transfers included.
* Molly Malone's, [13]. Irish Bar and Restaurant has a number of air conditioned rooms, starting from US$20. Family-sized rooms available. Friendly staff and good food, located in the center of town.
* Golden Banana B&B, [14]. 5 minutes walk from market/bar area, quiet garden setting. Free-standing a/c rooms with hot shower, swimming pool. Breakfast included, Khmer style lunch/dinner. Gay-friendly. Transports and temple guides can be arranged. US$23/25/28 for single/double/twin. Recently opened (08/2006) Golden Banana Boutique Hotel, [15]. Same owner, same location, better rooms. US$45/50/55 for single/double/twin.
* Auberge Mont Royal d'Angkor, [16] Just off the main strip sits this charming little hotel with brilliant staff, great service, beautiful a/c rooms, new pool and spa and a good restaurant. They will pick you up at the airport and will arrange day-trips, guides and anything you might need while in Siem Reap. US$25-50 per room.
* Angkor Village Hotel & Resort, tel. +855-63-963-361. [17]. The architecture of both hotels is directly inspired from cambodian traditional villages. Built in true khmer tradition, the wooden houses nestled among tropical ponds and gardens, secluded from the hustle of the town, offer peace and serenity . From US$147.
* Prince D'Angkor, Sivatha Blvd, tel. +855-63-763-888. [18]. Upmarket hotel and spa. Fairly central location a 10-minute stroll from the center of town. From US$180.
* Amansara, [19]. Prince Sihanouk's former guesthouse, close to the main entrance to Angkor Wat. Rates from US$650 up.
* Casa Angkor, Oum Chhay / Oum Khun Street, tel. +855-63-963658, [20]. Former boutique hotel now expanded to three times its previous size and trying to claw its way upmarket. It looks pretty from the outside, the miniature pool is nice and the polished cycle-rickshaws add a cute touch, but at heart it's still a thoroughly generic mid-range concrete barracks that doesn't deserve the price tag. From US$80.
* Hôtel de la Paix, Sivatha Boulevard, tel. +855-63-966000, [21]. The newest and, just maybe, the best five-star in town. Tastefully done in a colonial-modern fusion style, with pool, spa and very good restaurants. Location is very central. From US$200.
* Le Meridien Angkor, Vithei Charles de Gaulle (the road to Angkor), tel. +855-63-963900, [22]. Opened in 2004, the ordinary-looking exterior hides what feels like a slick, modern big city hotel. The large pool/spa complex, set off from the main building, is particularly remarkable. From US$150.
* The One Hotel, Angkor, The Passage, tel. +855-12-755-311. [23]. Located in a charming central side street in a freestanding French colonial building, this hotel has only one (1) suite for one or two guests. Street view balconies and a private roof top jacuzzi garden. US$250.
* Raffles Grand Hotel D'Angkor, [24]. Siem Reap's grand old hotel, originally built by the French. Subject to a boycott in some quarters as, when their waiters and bartenders had the audacity to ask to keep their tips, they fired the lot.
Internet cafés abound in Siem Reap, prices being US$.75-1.50 per hour. Speed of connection, and speed of PC, very much depends from place to place.
* E-Café, on Sivatha St north of Psar Chas, [25]. A cut above the rest in connection and service quality, as well as price at US$1.50/hour.
* Figo's cafe's food is a bit more expensive, but offers free wireless internet to its customers.
Generally the Siem Reap area and the temples of Angkor are relatively safe, however the usual cautions still apply as with any town or city. Whilst visiting the temples, however, beware of off duty police officers, who are in uniform, that start walking beside you and start showing you around the temples. At this point either say that you would like to see the temples yourself, or agree on a price at the start. Several people have been requested for a fee of over US$10 at the end of the temple tour and you are not going to argue with a member of the police force! The official wage for a police office is very low, so they can easily double their salary by being tourist guides.
Siem Reap and the Angkor temples have long since been thoroughly demined.
* If you haven't seen enough temples yet, the ancient capital of Koh Ker and the commanding hilltop ruins of Preah Vihear next to the Thai border might be worth a trip.
written by  garisti on July 1, 2008 from Siemreab, Cambodia

Bangkok, Thailand
Bangkok is a huge city with several district articles containing sightseeing, restaurant, nightlife and accommodation listings — consider printing them all.
Grand Palace, Bangkok
Palace Grounds
Bangkok (Thai: กรุงเทพฯ Krung Thep) [1] is the capital of Thailand and by far its largest city with an estimated population of over 10 million.
Bangkok is a large city, rising vertically and growing horizontally. Administratively it is split up into 50 khet (districts), but these are rarely used in practice and the visitor will find the conceptual division below more useful.
Districts of Bangkok
1. Sukhumvit – The long Sukhumvit Road, changing name to Ploenchit Road and Rama I Road going west, is Bangkok's modern commercial core, full of glitzy malls and hotels. The Skytrain intersection at Siam Square is the closest thing Bangkok has to a center.
2. Silom – To the south of Sukhumvit, the area around Silom Road and Sathorn Road is Thailand's sober financial center by day, but Bangkok's primary party district by night when quarters like the infamous Patpong come alive.
3. Rattanakosin – Between the river and Sukhumvit lies the densely packed "Old Bangkok", home to Bangkok's best-known wats. Yaowarat (Chinatown) and sights around the Chao Phraya River are also included here. Bangkok's backpacker mecca Khao San Road and the surrounding district of Banglamphu are located on the northern part of Rattanakosin.
4. Thonburi – The quieter west bank of the Chao Phraya River, with many small canals and some offbeat attractions.
5. Phahonyothin – The area around Phahonyothin Road and Viphavadi Rangsit Road is best known for the Chatuchak Weekend Market and Don Muang Airport.
6. Ratchadaphisek – The district north of Sukhumvit centered around Ratchadaphisek Road (part of which is called Asoke) and reaching from Phetchaburi Road to Lat Phrao. This area has really opened up recently as the new metro line follows Ratchadaphisek Road.
The concrete jungle of central Bangkok
Just under 14 degrees North of the Equator, Bangkok is a tropical metropolis that is also one of the most traveller-friendly cities in Asia. A furious assault on the senses, the first things that impress many visitors are the heat, the congestion both on streets and sidewalks, the pollution inherent to rapid development, the squalor that accompanies a gaping chasm between rich and poor, and the irrepressible smiles of the Thais. Bangkok now has the fastest rate for high-rise developments in the world. (sometimes dissapoint the new comers to see the ancient architecture and a total distinct world of Asia, however, as they wander around, will find their expectations lie deeply rooted). Despite the sensationalized international news reports and first impressions, the city is surprisingly safe, more organized than it initially appears, and full of hidden gems waiting to be discovered. The high relative humidity and warm temperature favor the growth of tropical plants — you'll find exotic orchids and delicious fruit everywhere. Thai cuisine is singular, justifiably famous, varied, and affordable. Bangkok, for many, represents the quintessential Asian capital. Saffron-robed monks, garish neon signs, graceful Thai architecture, spicy dishes, colourful markets, traffic jams, and the tropical climate come together in a happy coincidence. It is difficult to leave with lukewarm impressions of the city.
[edit] History
Bangkok (originally Bang Makok) was a small village on the banks of the Chao Phraya river, until a new capital was founded on the west bank (present-day Thonburi) after the fall of Ayutthaya. In 1782, King Rama I built a palace on the east bank (now Rattanakosin) and renamed the city as Krung Thep, as it is now known to Thais -- the City of Angels (and much more: the full name is listed as the world's longest place name by the Guinness Book of Records; an English rendering goes like this: "Krung thep mahanakhon amorn ratanakosin mahintharayutthaya mahadilok pop noparatratchathani burirom udomratchanivetmahasathan amornpiman avatarnsathit sakkathattiyavisnukarmprasit" -- "The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn"). The original village has long since ceased to exist, but for some reason foreigners never caught on to the change.
[edit] Addresses & Navigation
Addresses in Bangkok use the Thai addressing system, which may be a little confusing to the uninitiated. Large roads such as Silom or Sukhumvit are thanon (ถนน), often abbreviated Th or glossed "Road/Avenue", while the side streets branching off from them are called soi (ซอย). Sois are numbered, with even numbers on one side and odd ones on the other. Thus, an address like "25 Soi Sukhumvit 3" means the 25th building on the 3rd soi of Sukhumvit Road. While the soi numbers on each side will always advance upward, the numbers often do not advance evenly between sides - for example, Soi 55 could be across from soi 36. Many well-known sois have an additional name, which can be used instead of the number. Soi 3 is also known as "Soi Nana", so the address above might thus also be expressed as "25 Soi Nana". The extension /x is used for new streets created between existing streets, as seen in Sukhumvit's soi pattern 7, 7/1, 7/2, 9, 11. Note that some short alleys are called trok (ตรอก) instead of soi.
Bangkok
To make things a little more complex, some large sois like Soi Ekamai (Sukhumvit Soi 63) and Soi Ari (Phahonyothin Soi 7) have their own sois. In these cases an address like "Soi Ari 3" means "the 3rd soi off Soi Ari", and you may even spot addresses like "68/2 Soi Ekamai 4, 63 Sukhumvit Road", meaning "2nd house beside house 68, 4th soi off Ekamai, the 63rd soi of Sukhumvit". In many sois the house numbers are not simply increasing, but may spread around.
To further bewilder the tourist who doesn't read Thai, the renderings of Thai street names in the Latin alphabet are not consistent. The road running towards the (former) airport from the Victory Monument may be spelled Phahon Yothin or Pahon Yothin or Phahonyothin or Phaholyothin depending on which street sign or map you consult. It's all the same in Thai, of course -- only the romanisation varies.
And if that's not confusing enough, most of the larger streets tend to change names altogether every few kilometers. Sukhumvit is called Sukhumvit on one side of the tollway (roughly east), but it becomes Ploenchit just before you cross Thanon Witthayu (aka Wireless) going towards the river. Keep going just a few more streets and it becomes Thanon Rama I (usually said as just Rama I) after you pass Thanon Ratchadamri. But if you were to turn right onto Ratchadamri, in just a few blocks you'll find yourself on Thanon Ratchaprarop (past Petchaburi, aka New Phetburi, which is called Phitsanulok closer to the river). Got it?
But wait, there's logic to these name changes: most of them are neighborhoods. It wouldn't make sense to call the road Sukhumvit if it's no longer running through the Sukhumvit area, would it? Thus, Sukhumvit becomes Ploenchit where it runs though the Ploenchit area. It's when you're able to grasp the city in terms of its neighborhoods that it both becomes more navigable and more charming. Likewise, Pratunam and Chatuchak are much more than just markets; they're boroughs, each with its own distinct character.
Related to this last point, compass directions are not widely used by Thais to navigate in Bangkok. That's probably because they aren't very useful: the city's darwinistic layout, the changing street names, the winding river, and the lack of obvious landmarks all conspire to confuse your internal compass. Thus, asking for directions in terms of "is that west from here?" will probably earn you little more than a confused look from a local. You're better off to familiarize yourself with the neighborhoods and navigate to and from them. "How do I get to Thonglor?" will get you there faster than asking for directions to Sukhumvit Soi 55.
One exception: the Chao Phyra River is THE landmark in Bangkok, and many directional references can be made as "toward the river" or "away from the river". If you aren't TOO close, that is: since the river winds around the most popular tourist areas, river references tend to be most helpful when you're wandering farther afield than Banglamphoo or Sanam Luang or Rattana. And wander you should.
Bangkok now two airports operating. Allow at least three hours to connect between them.
[edit] Suvarnabhumi Airport
Departure tax
Bangkok charges a departure tax (called the "Passenger Service Charge") of 700 baht for international flights. This was payable in cash after check-in; however, it is now supposed to be included in airline tickets. If you purchased the tickets prior to Dec 2006, this may not be the case. Check your tickets!
Located 30 kilometers (19 miles) to the east of Bangkok, space-age Suvarnabhumi Airport (สุวรรณภูมิ, pronounced "soo-wanna-poom", (IATA: BKK) (ICAO: VTBS), [2] started operations in September 2006 and is now Bangkok's main airport, used by all international flights as well as all Air Asia and some Thai Airways domestic flights. There is only one terminal building, which covers both domestic and international flights, but it's huge (by some measures the world's largest) so allow time for getting around.
Suvarnabhumi Airport
All the facilities you'd expect are available (transit hotel, ATMs, money exchange). The cheapest place to eat is the Magic food court on the 1st floor, while perhaps the most comfortable and relaxing of the airport's restaurants and cafes is the Sky Lounge on the 5th floor. Here you can have your latte while sitting in plush leather sofas and enjoying a panoramic view over the runways - prices are also quite reasonable with coffee around 70 baht a cup. There are a few stores in the check-in area including a convenience store and a post office; however, the real shopping experience awaits travelers on the other side of immigration in the departure lounge area where the number of shops and duty free outlets leaves you wondering if you are in a mall or an airport. Beware, though, that past security in the gate waiting area there is practically nothing except steel chairs.
Transportation
Limousine taxis (which charge by distance, e.g. around 800 baht to central Sukhumvit) can be reserved at the limousine hire counter on the 2nd floor (just outside Arrivals), and a limited number of ordinary metered taxis are available outside the exit on the 1st floor (take the escalator downstairs). If there is a huge taxi queue, consider taking a free shuttle bus to the satellite terminal, which has more taxis. There is a 50 baht surcharge on the meter, meaning that trips to the city will cost 300-400 baht (plus 65 baht highway tolls) and take 40-60 minutes depending on traffic.
There is also a stop outside the 1st floor exit for airport express buses [3], which charge a flat 150 baht and operate hourly until midnight, covering four routes, each taking about 60 to 90 minutes:
* AE1: Suvarnabhumi-Silom
* AE2: Suvarnabhumi-Khao San Road
* AE3: Suvarnabhumi-Sukhumvit
* AE4: Suvarnahhumi-Victory Monument-Hua Lamphong (train station)
Local (Bangkok) public buses to/from Suvarnabhumi charge a flat 35 baht. To take a public bus, you must first take a free shuttle bus ride (from the outside 2nd floor) to the separate terminal. The lines are:
* 549: Suvarnabhumi-Bangkapi
* 550: Suvarnabhumi-Happy Land
* 551: Suvarnabhumi-Victory Monument (BTS)
* 552: Suvarnabhumi-On Nut (BTS)-Klong Toei
* 552A: Suvarnabhumi - Sam Rong
* 553: Suvarnabhumi-Samut Phrakan
* 554: Suvarnabhumi-Don Muang Airport
* 555: Suvarnabhumi-Rangsit (Expressway)
* 556: Suvarnabhumi-Southern Bus Terminal
* 557: merged with 558
* 558: Suvarnabhumi-Central Rama II-Wong Wien Yai
* 559: Suvarnabhumi-Rangsit (Outer Ring Road)
These services take about 1 hour to 2 hours depending on Bangkok traffic and frequency is usually every 20 mins during daytime and night time ranges from 20 mins to 1 hour depending on route. Long-distance 1st class bus services connect Suvarnabhumi directly with Chachoengsao, Hua Hin, Nong Khai, Pattaya, Rayong, and Trat.
An airport express train to the future City Air Terminal at Makkasan (connecting to MRT Phetchaburi) and onward to Phaya Thai (connecting to BTS Phaya Thai) is under construction, but is not expected to be ready before the end of 2007 at the earliest. Die-hard rail fans with lots of time to kill can take bus 517 to Hua Takhe station (15 baht), a few km from the airport, and continue on any 3rd class train to Asok or Hualamphong (7 baht).
Accommodation
At present, there are only a few hotels located near Suvarnabhumi Airport, though with huge construction projects planned for the area this will change over the next few years. Day room facilities for transit passengers are now available at the 'Miracle Grand Louis Tavern' on floor 4, section G (Tel+66 6 317-2211, 2000 baht per 4-hour block, no reservations accepted). Cheapskate travelers looking for a free quiet place to doze undisturbed at night should head for the prayer rooms.
The Tourist Authority of Thailand and other hotel and tourist agencies have counters on the second floor of the main terminal. These agencies offer hotel reservation service. Check for special promotions and also whether the hotel offers airport pick up and drop off service - especially useful for late night arrivals and early morning departures.
* Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel, Suvarnabhumi Airport. Tel:+66 2 131-1111 res@novotelsuvarnabhumi.com [4]. The only hotel in the airport itself, connected to the main airport terminal by a pedestrian bridge. (As of Mar 2007, the pedestrian bridge is still not ready for use and passengers are taken to the hotel via a free shuttle bus service which takes less than 5 mins.) Rooms: 3,500+ baht.
* Queen's Garden Resort, 9-11 Soi 38, Suvarnabhumi, Lat Krabang. Tel:+66 2327 4118. Fax: 327 4004. The hotel is just 5-10 minutes from Suvarnabhumi Airport. Rooms 900+ Baht. info@queensgardenresort.net. www.queensgardenresort.net.
* Royal Princess Srinakarin, 905 Moo 6, Srinakarin Road, Nongbon, Pravet. Tel:+66 2 728-400. Fax:721- 8432 - a 20-30 minute drive from airport. Rooms 3,500+ baht.
* Sananwan Palace, 18/11 moo 11. Sukapibarn Road 5 , Bangpli Yai. Tel:+66 2 752-1658 ,(Mobile) +66 818644615. Family-owned budget accomodation with swimming pool, TV and high speed internet about 20 minutes drive from the airport. Rooms with A/C: 600 baht.
* Grand Inn Come Hotel, 99 Moo 6, Kingkaew Road, Rachataeva, Bangplee, Samutprakan. Tel:+66 2 738 8191-3 - about a 15-20 minute drive from the airport. Bus 553 stops here. Rooms between 1,200 - 2,000 baht.
* Avana Hotel, 23/1 Moo 12 Soi 14/1, Bangna-Trad Road. Tel:+66 2 763-2900. 3-star hotel about 30 minutes drive from the airport. Rooms 1,200 to 3,000 baht.
* Nasa Vegas Hotel[5]. 44 Ramkhamhaeng Road. Tel :+66 2 719-9888 Fax:+66 2 719-9899 - about 15 mins drive from the new airport. Rooms from 590 + baht.
* Ratchana Place[6]. 199 Moo 4, Soi Wat Sirisaothong, Bangna Trad Highway KM 26, Bangbo, Samutprakan 10540 Tel:+66 2 313-4480~9 booking@ratchanaplace.com - about 15-20 mins drive from the airport. Rooms between 350 - 700 baht.
[edit] Don Muang Airport
Don Muang Airport (IATA: DMK) (or Don Mueang), 20 km north of downtown, was Bangkok's main airport until 2006. The airport handles Nok Air, PB Air and most Thai Airways domestic flights, but the former international terminal is now limited to charters and general aviation.
The public taxi stand is located on the sidewalk outside the arrivals area (don't be fooled by all the taxi service booths in the main hall), and is probably your best bet for getting into town — it's also your only option after 11 PM. Give your destination (English is understood) and you will receive a two-part ticket at the booth. The charge into town will be the meter + 50 baht + toll if you take the expressway (recommended, 30-70 baht), for a usual total of 200-300 baht. The small part is for your driver, the large part is for you. This ticket is for complaints and is how the system is enforced: hold on to it to help avoid arguments later. The trip into town takes 30 minutes and up depending on traffic conditions.
If the line at the taxi stand is long or you need a more spacious car, you may want to book a (so-called) limousine from the desks in the terminal. This will get you a slightly nicer car at about twice the price (500-600 baht). Ignore any touts outside and do not get into any car with white license plates, as these are not licensed to carry passengers.
Across a covered overpass from the airport is the train station. Tickets to Hualamphong station cost 5 baht at the ticket booth. While taking the train is the cheapest way to get from the airport to Bangkok, it is not for the faint-of-heart: schedules are erratic, the run-down passenger cars often have beggars roaming through them, and are relatively empty late at night.
There are also a number of public transport buses going by the airport. Just take a overpass to the real road bypassing the airport and stop the bus of your choice. For example the air-con bus 504 will take you to the World Trade Center, from where you'll have access to the Skytrain as well as many other buses, or Lumpini Park, from where you get access to the subway, for 20 Baht. Note that large baggage is not allowed.
If you're flying Thai Airways, you can do a city check-in at Lad Phrao MRT station, from where free shuttle buses leave 1:50 before each Thai flight. The same buses also run in the reverse direction from the airport.
Bangkok's three official long haul bus terminals are:
* Eastern Bus Terminal - also known as Ekamai, this relatively compact terminal is located right next to Ekamai BTS station on Sukhumvit (E7). Ekamai serves Eastern Thailand destinations, including Pattaya, Rayong, Ban Phe, Chanthaburi and Trat.
* North & North Eastern Bus Terminal - also known as Moh Chit (or Mor Chit or Morchit), this is the largest, busiest, and most modern terminal. The upper floor serves the North-East (Isaan); the ground floor serves the North, as well as sharing some destinations with Ekamai (including Pattaya, Rayong, Chanthaburi and Trat). It's a 30-baht moto hop (or a lengthy hike across Chatuchak Park) from BTS Moh Chit/Metro Chatuchak stations (N8/18), or take the 77 bus and pay the 7-baht flat fare on board.
See the Phahonyothin District guide for more details.
* Southern Bus Terminal - also known as Sai Tai Mai, this older and relatively chaotic sprawling terminal serves all points west and south from its somewhat inconvenient location on the "wrong" side of the river. The terminal is scheduled to move to a new, even more remote location in Phutthamonthon Sai 1 in July 2007 — enquire locally.
See the Thonburi District guide for more details.
when arriving in Bangkok...
...late at night, the easiest way from Northern or Southern terminal to your final destination will be by meter taxi.
...by tourist bus you may find yourself delivered to their favorite hotel or guest-house, otherwise you'll probably be dropped off in the vicinity of one of the long haul terminals, or if it's a service catering primarily for backpackers, somewhere near Khao San Road.
The three main stations in Bangkok are:
[edit] Hualamphong Train Station
Inside view of Hualampong train station, looking towards the platform
The main station and the terminus of the Bangkok Metro line. Located right in the middle of downtown Bangkok, it is a huge and surprisingly nice station, built during the reign of King Rama VI and spared bombing in world War II at the request of the Free Thai underground. The station has a good tourist office. (Only listen to the people at the Info desk - anyone walking around offering to help you 'find' a hotel or taxi is just a tout, even if they are wearing very official looking badges).
Tickets for trains leaving the same or next day can be bought on the counters under the red/orange/green screens (see photo). The Advance Booking Office is located to the right of the platforms as you walk towards them and is quite well organised. You can select your seat/berth from a plan of the train, and payments by credit card are accepted.
The taxi pick up and drop off point is to the left of the platforms as you walk towards them, and is generally chaotic at busy periods with scant regard for any queue.
The left luggage facility is at the opposite end of the concourse, on the far right as you walk away from the platforms.
WARNING: The TAT Authorized Tourism Information offices in the second floor sell you a private "VIP bus" ticket if there is no place in first and second class trains. They offer a direct trip to the destination with a VIP bus faster than the train. Although the trip starts with a VIP bus, it ends up with a "surprise" transfer to a minibus and extremely long journeys. Just refuse the offered private bus ticket and buy public bus tickets from the main bus terminals if you cannot find ticket for train.
[edit] Bang Sue Train Station
If coming from the north or north-east, connecting to the Metro here can shave the last half-hour off your train trip. This is not a very good place to board trains though, as there is practically no information or signage in English. However, this situation will doubtless improve as more and more long-distance departures are switched to here from Hualamphong.
See Phahonyothin District for more details.
[edit] Thonburi Train Station
Also known as Bangkok Noi, this station is located on the "wrong" side of the river in Thonburi District and is the starting point for services to Kanchanaburi (via Nakhon Pathom), River Kwai Bridge and Nam Tok.
There are two daily 3rd class trains: [7]
* depart Thonburi 07:45, arrive Nom Tok 12:20, return 13:00, terminate Thonburi at 17:36
* depart Nam Tok 05:25, arrive Thonburi 10:05, return 13:50, terminate Nam Tok at 18:20
Note that the weekend-only 2nd class air-con Kanchanaburi/Nam Tok "tourist" trains depart from Hualamphong. [8]
[edit] By ship
Cruise ships visiting Bangkok arrive at Laem Chabang, about 90 minutes south-east of Bangkok and about 30 minutes north of Pattaya.
A taxi service desk is available on the wharf, but charges extortionate prices - a whopping 2600 baht to charter a taxi (4 passengers), or about 5000 baht to charter a minibus (usually 11 passenger seats), for a trip into Bangkok. Slightly lower prices can be found by walking out to the main road (about 4000 baht for a minibus), however even these rates are almost double the typical rate in the opposite direction. Better deals may be possible for round trips (even if returning the following day).
Frequent first and second class bus services directly connect Laem Chabang with Ekamai (Bangkok's Eastern Bus Terminal, on Sukhumvit); less frequent direct services run to Moh Chit (Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal). A first class air-con bus (blue and white) to either will usually take 90 minutes or less; the fare is around 100 baht. A good way to make the most of a quick visit is to board an Ekamai bus and then disembark early at the On Nut Skytrain Station on Sukhumvit Road in Bangkok (the bus will always pause here provided a passenger requests it); in the opposite direction, use the Ekamai Skytrain Station and board the bus at the terminus. To get to or return from the Chatuchak Weekend Market, use the Moh Chit bus instead.
Buses en route to Pattaya (southbound) can be boarded at the traffic lights on Sukhumvit Road in Laem Chabang, are extremely frequent (at least 10 per hour), and charge less than 50 baht.
Bangkok has the full spectrum of public transportation methods. Buses and taxis operate everywhere in the city. The Sky Train (BTS) and metro are available only in the city centre. And vans generally operate only in more out-lying areas.
Image:Bkkroutes.png
Metro BTS Sukhumvit BTS Silom
1 Hualamphong N8 Mo Chit
2 Sam Yan N7 Saphan Khwai
3 Si Lom N6
4 Lumphini N5 Ari
5 Khlong Toei N4 Sanam Pao
6 Queen Sirikit NCC N3 Victory Monument
7 Sukhumvit N2 Phaya Thai
8 Phetchaburi N1 Ratchathewi W1 National Stadium
9 Phra Ram 9 CEN Siam CEN Siam
10 Thai Cultural Center E1 Chit Lom S1 Ratchadamri
11 Huai Khwang E2 Phloen Chit S2 Sala Daeng
12 Sutthisan E3 Nana S3 Chong Nonsi
13 Ratchadaphisek E4 Asok S4
14 Lat Phrao E5 Phrom Phong S5 Surasak
15 Phahon Yothin E6 Thong Lo S6 Saphan Taksin
16 Chatuchak Park E7 Ekamai
17 Kamphaeng Phet E8 Phra Khanong
18 Bang Sue E9 On Nut
[edit] Skytrain
The Bangkok Skytrain (BTS, pronunced bee-tee-et in Thai but also rót fai fáa or just skytrain) deserves a visit simply for the Disneyland space-ageness of it. Built in a desperate effort to ease Bangkok's insane traffic and pollution, the Skytrain covers most of downtown and is especially convenient for visiting the Siam Square area. There are two lines: the light green Sukhumvit line which travels along Sukhumvit road and then goes up Phayonyothin to northern Bangkok, where it terminates near the Chatuchak Weekend Market (N8), and the dark green Silom line, which travels from the Silom area, interchanges with the Sukhumvit line at Siam Square (C) and ends at National Stadium, right next to MBK. There isn't, unfortunately, a station near Banglampu District (aka the Khao San Road area), but the river ferry connects between Tha Banglampu and Tha Sathorn, which is under the Silom line terminus at Saphan Taksin (S6).
You must have 5 or 10 baht coins to purchase Skytrain tickets from the vending machines near the entrance, so hold on to them. Fares range from 10 to 45 baht depending upon how many zones you are travelling. Consult the map (in English) near each ticket machine. If you do not have coins, queue for change from the staff at the booth. If you are in town for several days, weigh your options and consider a rechargable stored-value card (from 100 baht, with a 30-baht refundable deposit), a "ride all you like" tourist pass (from 100 baht/day) or a multiple ride pass of 10 trips or more. They will certainly save you time, scrambling for coins, and maybe even money. Check for information with the English speaking staff.
Bangkok Metro finally opened in July 2004. The Blue Line connects the central Hualamphong railway station (1) to the northern Bang Sue station (18), with interchanges to the Skytrain at Silom/Sala Daeng (3/S2), Sukhumvit/Asok (7/E4) and Chatuchak/Mo Chit (15/N8). You can also transfer to north/northeast-bound SRT trains at the northern terminus Bang Sue.
Metro tickets are not interchangeable with Skytrain tickets. Rides cost from 12 to 36 baht depending on distance; pre-paid cards of up to 1000 baht are also available. For single ride fares, a round plastic token is used.
The subway stop for the Chatuchak Weekend Market is not Chatuchak Park, but one stop further at Kamphaeng Phet (16). The latter drops you right inside the market.
Chao Phraya Express Boat
A ride on the Chao Phraya River should be high on any tourist's agenda. The cheapest and most popular option is the Chao Phraya Express Boat, basically an aquatic bus plying up and down the river. The basic service plies from Wat Rajsingkorn (S4) all the way to Nonthaburi (N30) is now 13 baht, with stops at most of Rattanakosin's major attractions including the Grand Palace, the Temple of Dawn, etc. Board at piers with a sign showing the route and pay the ticket collector who will approach you bearing a long metal cylinder. In addition to the basic service, there are express services flagged with yellow or orange flags, which stop only at major piers and should be avoided unless you're sure where you're going. The new signposting of the piers is quite clear, with numbered piers and English route maps, and the Central station offers easy interchange to the BTS Saphan Taksin station.
In addition to the workaday express boat, there is also a Tourist Boat which stops at a different subset of piers, offers commentary in English and charges twice the price. The boats are slightly more comfortable and not a bad option for a hop or two, but don't get bullied into buying the overpriced day pass.
Canal boats
Canal boats also serve some of Bangkok's many canals (khlong). They're cheap and immune to Bangkok's notorious traffic jams, but mostly used locals who use these water taxis to commute to work and school and shopping, so you get to see the 'backside' of the neighborhoods, so to speak. They're also comparatively safe -- just watch your step when boarding and disembarking and be wary of the water as it can be quite polluted, do not let it get in your eyes. Pay the fare (8-20 baht) to the crazy helmet-wearing ticket collectors who hang onto the outside of the boat, ducking at bridges, as it barrels down the canal. One particularly useful line runs up and down Khlong Saen Saep, parallel to Petchaburi Road, and provides the easiest access from the city center to the Golden Mount. There's a boarding pier across from the WTC under the bridge where Ratchadamri crosses the khlong near Petchburi, and piers now even have (tiny) signs in English.
Finally, for trips outside the set routes, you can hire a long-tail river taxi at any major pier. These are fairly expensive and will attempt to charge as much as 500 baht/hour, but with haggling may be suitable for small groups. To circumvent the mafia-like touts who attempt to get a (large) cut for every ride, agree for the price of the shortest possible ride (half an hour etc), then negotiate directly with the captain when on board.
Local buses, mostly operated by the Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (BMTA), are cheapest but also the most challenging way of getting around, as there is a bewildering plethora of routes, usually marked only in Thai. If you can speak Thai you can call 184 Bus Route Hotline. Bus stops usually list only the bus numbers that stop there and nothing more. They are also subject to Bangkok's notorious traffic, often terribly crowded, and many are not air-conditioned. The hierarchy of Bangkok's buses from cheapest to best can be ranked as follows:
* Small green bus, 7.50 baht flat fare. Cramped, no air-con, no fan, famously suicidal drivers, not advisable for more than short hops.
* Red bus, 7 baht flat fare. More spacious and fan-cooled (in theory). Unlike other buses, some of these run through the night (1.50 baht surcharge). These buses are BMTA run.
* White/blue bus, 8 baht flat fare. Exactly the same as the red buses, but cost one baht more. These buses are owned by private entities operated in conjunction with BMTA.
* Blue/Yellow and Cream/Blue air-con, 11 baht for the first 8 kilometers, up to 18 baht max. These buses are quite comfy. The blue/yellow striped buses are privately owned while the Blue/Cream buses are BMTA owned.
* Orange air-con (Euro II), 13 baht for the first few kilometers, up to 22 baht max. These are all BMTA-run, newer, and more comfortable.
* Purple Microbus, 20 baht flat fare. Skytrain feeder services used to use these, but the service has been terminated.
Buses stop only when needed, so wave them down (arm out, palm down) when you see one barreling your way. In all buses except the Microbus, pay the roaming collector after you board; on Microbuses, drop the money into a slot next to the driver as you board. In all buses, keep the ticket as there are occasional spot-checks, and press the signal buzzer (usually near the door) when you want to get off.
Two further pitfalls are that buses of the same number may run slightly different routes depending on the color, and there are also express services (mostly indicated by yellow signs) that skip some stops and may take the expressway (2 baht extra).
The best online resources for decrypting bus routes are the official BMTA homepage, which has up-to-date if slightly incomplete listings of bus routes in English but no maps, and the ThailandOnline bus route map (bus info only in Thai, the map itself is bilingual). As a printed reference, the Bus Routes & Map guide (50 baht) by Bangkok Guides is another option.
Recently they have changed the rules regarding luggage on local buses within Bangkok, with the exception of airport buses you cannot take large amounts of luggage (ie. backpacks or suitcases) on the local buses.
Useful bus lines include the following:
* Red Bus No. 2 can bring people from Sanam Luang (very close to Khao San Road) to Sukhumvit Road. It's a good way to get from the Khao San Road area to connections with the Skytrain or MRT.
* Air Con bus 511 takes people from Sukhumvit and the Democracy Monument to the Southern Bus Terminal. But the route back is different. You can get back to the Khao San Road area (namely, Sanam Luang stop), but not to Sukhumvit.
Taxis are a quick and comfortable way to get around town, at least if the traffic is flowing your way. All taxis are now metered and air-conditioned: the hailing fee is 35 baht and most trips within Bangkok cost less than 100 baht. There are no surcharges (except from the airport), even at night. A red lit sign on the front window means that the taxi is available.
When the meter is switched on you will see a red '35' somewhere on the dashboard or between the driver and you. Be sure to check for this at the start of the ride, as many drivers will "forget" to start the meter in order to overcharge you at the end of your trip. Most will start the meter when asked politely to do so (poet meter na khrap); if the driver refuses to use the meter after a couple of attempts, simply exit the taxi. In some cases, late at night and especially near major tourist districts like Khao San or Patpong, you will need to walk a block away to catch a meter cab. The effort can save you as much at 150 baht. This is often also the case for taxis that park all day in front of your hotel. The only two reasons that they are there: 1) To take you places where they can get their commissions (Jewelry stores, massage parlors, etc) and 2) To overcharge you by not using the meter. Your best bet is to walk to the road and catch an unoccupied metered taxi in motion (easier than it sounds, as Bangkok traffic tends to crawl the majority of the time, and one car out of four is a taxi). Be sure to either know the correct pronunciation of your destination, or have it written in Thai; taxi drivers in Bangkok are notoriously bad at reading maps.
If you're pinching pennies or fussy about your means of transportation, you may wish to think twice before getting into one of the (very common) yellow-green taxis. They are owner-operated and of highly variable quality, and occasionally they have rigged meters. All other colors belong to large taxi companies, which usually enforce their standards better.
From the airport and on some routes in the city the driver will ask if he should use the Tollway. You should affirm this, it will save a lot of time. You have to pay the cost (20/40 baht) immediately. Watch how much the driver really pays, they may try to keep the change.
When getting out, try to have small bills (100 baht or less) or expect problems with change. Tips are unusual, but are certainly welcome.
[edit] By motorbike
When traffic slows to a crawl and there are no mass-transit alternatives for your destination, by far the fastest mode of transport is a motorbike taxi (or in Thai, "motosai lapjang"). No, those guys in the pink smocks aren't biker gangs; they're motosai cabbies. They typically wear colorful fluorescent yellow-orange vests and wait for passengers at street corners and near shopping malls. Prices are negotiable; negotiate before you ride.
WARNING: Motorcycle accidents are brutally common, and many (tourists and Thai alike) consider transportation of this sort to be inherently hazardous. Motorcycle taxis in Bangkok should generally be avoided except as a last resort.
For the unfaint-of-heart, a wild motosai ride can provide a fantastic rush. Imagine weaving through rows of stopped vehicles at 50km/h with mere centimetres to spare on each side, dodging pedestrians, other motorbikes, tuk-tuks, stray dogs and the occasional elephant while the driver blithely ignores all traffic laws and defies even some laws of physics. Now, do the same ride while facing backwards on the bike and balancing a large television on your lap — then you can qualify as a local.
The overwhelming majority of motorcycle taxis do not travel long distances, but simply shuttle up and down long sois (side-streets) not serviced by other transport for a fixed 5-20 baht fare. These are marginally less dangerous, especially if you happen to travel with the flow on a one-way street.
The law requires that both driver and passenger must wear a helmet. It is the driver's responsibility to provide you with one, so if you are stopped by police, any fine is also the driver's responsibility. This is worth bearing in mind when you hire a motorbike or moped. Make sure that if there are two of you, the hirer provides two helmets not one. When riding, keep a firm grasp on the seat handle and watch out for your knees.
[edit] By tuk-tuk
Tuk-tuks on the prowl
Finally, what would Bangkok be without the much-loathed and much-loved tuk-tuks? You'll know them when you hear them, and you'll hate them when you smell them — these three-wheeled contraptions blaze around Bangkok leaving a black cloud of smog in their wake. For anything more than a 5-10 minute jaunt or just the experience, they really are not worth the price — and, if you let them get away with it, the price will usually be 4 or 5 times what it should be anyway (which, for Thais, is around 30% less than the equivalent metered taxi fare). On the other hand, you can sometimes ride for free if you agree to visit touristy clothing or jewelry shops (which give the tuk-tuk driver gas coupons and commissions for bringing customers). The shops' salesmen are pushy, but you are free to leave after five to ten minutes of browsing. Visitors should beware though, sometimes one stop can turn in to three, and your tuk-tuk driver may not be interested in taking you where you need to go once he has his gas coupons. Also, with Bangkok's densly congested traffic it is sure to spend hours of your time.
In case you actually want to get somewhere, and you're an all-male party, be careful with the tuk-tuk drivers, they will usually just ignore your destination and start driving you to some bordello ("beautiful girls"). Insist continually and forcefully on going only to your destination.
There's also a less-heralded, less-colourful and less-touristy version of the tuk-tuk that usually serves the back sois in residential neighborhoods. They usually have four wheels instead of three and resemble a tiny truck / ute / lorry, and they run on petrol instead of LP. The maids and locals tend to use them to return home from market with loads of groceries, or for quick trips if they're available. Negotiate before you get in, but don't expect to go much beyond the edge of that particular neighborhood.
Peoplespotting
More than any other place in Thailand, Bangkok offers wonderful opportunities for just sitting and watching people go by. Here's a partial checklist:
* University student — Many of Thailand's universities continue to enforce a uniform, and what a uniform: for girls, it's a formfitting translucent white blouse, black miniskirt and straight black hair. The little shiny logo button on the blouse tells the cognoscenti which particular university she is attending. Boys wear a white dress shirt and black trousers, but ever the non-conformists, you'll never see one outside school without the shirt pulled out and a few too many buttons open.
* Office lady — Sharply clad in infinite variations of solid pastel shades, this human houseplant mans customer service desks and pours tea in offices across the capital.
* Bargirl — Mostly short and dark-skinned farm girls from the provinces, a bargirl can be spotted a mile away thanks to her pink hotpants and the kilo of gold around her neck. Often found in happy financial symbiosis with the sexpat.
* Sexpat — Fifty-plus, bald, beer belly, stained shirt, lovestruck expression and a hairy arm wrapped around a girl too young to be their daughter. They've found what they're looking for.
* Ladyboy (kathoey) — Either tall, large-handed, wears too much makeup, possesses an Adam's apple and has large breasts... or has accomplished the art of camouflage so well that you just filed her/him as an office lady or bargirl.
* Expat — A farang walking about purposefully in dress shirt and long trousers, seemingly oblivious to the fact that it's 35°C outside. For extra credit, try to distinguish between the scruffier English teacher type and the jet-setting expense package type. Or try classifying them by the old joke about the three types of expat — missionaries, mercenaries and misfits.
* Yuppie — Like every other big city, Bangkok boasts a coterie of young professional types who are hip, well-educated and relatively affluent. Similar to the Expat, they usually sport business attire and are likely to be hurried -- except they probably know a shortcut, and they aren't sweating so profusely.
* Khao San Road brigade — Braided hair, bead necklace, sarongs, shorts and floppy pants. Either on their way to or just back from the beaches. Dazed and bewildered when torn apart from the familiar surroundings of Khao San Road.
Most of Bangkok's sights are concentrated in the "Old City" on Rattanakosin Island. Out of Bangkok's many temples, the following usually make the top 3:
* Wat Arun (The Temple of Dawn)
* The Grand Palace, featuring Wat Phra Kaew (The Temple of the Emerald Buddha)
* Wat Pho, home of the world's largest reclining Buddha and a famed massage school
Bangkok's many markets are an experience in themselves, see Buy for some suggestions.
[edit] Itineraries
* One day in Bangkok — if you have just one day to spare and want to catch a feel for the city
* Bangkok to Ho Chi Minh City overland— a suggested one-week trip through the heart of former Indochina.
Go cycling! It may sound crazy, but it certainly is not. Away from the main roads there is a fast system of small streets and alleys. Cyclists are treated as pedestrians, so you can use your bicycle to explore parks, temple complexes, markets and the more quiet residential areas of eastern Bangkok. In more crowded places you can cycle on the sidewalk. Exploring the town by bicycle has all the advantages of going by foot combined with a much greater action radius and a cooling breeze when cycling.
* For those who don't want to cycle alone dutch expat Co van Kessel organizes highly recommended all inclusive half day cycling tours for 950 bath. Co van Kessel Bangkok tours, ☎ Office: 02 - 322 9481 or: 02 - 752 6818 - 9 Mr. Co's mobile: 0 87 - 824 1931 Miss Nong's mobile: 0 87 - 054 9878 (covankessel@yahoo.com), [9]. 950 Bath.
Bangkok is an extremely popular place for all sorts of pampering. The options available range from massages and spa treatments to haircuts and manicures and even cosmetic surgery, all at prices far lower than in the West.
* All self-respecting hotels in Bangkok will have a spa operating on premises offering at least traditional massage services. These tend to charge a premium but also offer some the best treatments in town. Particularly well-regarded spas include Deverana [10] at the Dusit Thani and the eponymous operations at Banyan Tree [11] and the legendary Oriental [12] — the last of these being probably the most expensive in town, offering (among other things) a 6-hour Oriental Romance package for two costing a whopping US$535.
* Independent spas offer much the same experience but are a little more competitive due to the lack of a captive customer base. Figure on 1000 baht and up per hour for most treatments.
* The ubiquitous little massage shops found on every street corner in town offer the best value for money but the smallest range of services, with offerings usually limited to massage only. It is fairly easy to distinguish legitimate massage shops from more dubious places: the real deal will charge 250-400 baht for a typical two-hour massage and will often have a row of beefy farmers' daughters in white coats working on customers' feet in public view, while the other kind has wispy things in evening dresses and too much makeup yelling "hello handsome" at every passing male.
* Bangkok's hospitals offer generally high quality services at a fraction of the cost of a Western hospital. Probably the best-regarded (and most expensive) is Bumrungrad [13], which (for example) charges 60,000 baht for an all-inclusive breast implant package. Bangkok is also well known as a center for sexual reassignment surgery for people wishing to change their physical gender, although this falls out of the scope of a casual vacation
* A cruise down the Chao Praya River is a nice way to spend a day here in Bangkok. A tour called Five Temples, Five Era Chao Praya River Cruise [14] offer by Truly Yours Tour [15] will take you to explore the history of Thai temples around the river each last Sunday of the Month. The tour mainly visite 5 temples and explain the historical significant by a lecturer.
* Golf - see Golf in Thailand - Bangkok
[edit] Cooking
Thai cuisine is a favorite of many, and many cooking schools provide half-day classes that provide a nice break from the day-to-day sightseeing monotony.
* BaiPai Cooking School. Tel. 02-294-9029 info@baipai.com [16]. A nice casual cooking school with a nice modern design in the middle of a residential neighborhood. Their van will pick you up from your hotel or Bangkok location, because it's not easy to find. Instructors are fun and informative, and you get a souvenir printed photo and one is even emailed to you. Class run from 9:30am to about 1:30pm, closed Mondays.
* Blue Elephant. Tel. 02-673-9353 cooking.school@blueelephant.com [17]. Take classes from one of the most famous chains of Thai restaurants in the world. While the price is substantially higher than others in Bangkok, class takes place in the historic Blue Elephant restaurant, and while dining on your creations, wine, extra dishes and dessert are served. And they give you a Blue Elephant apron as well.
[edit] Buddhism
* The International Buddhist Meditation Centre. Wat Mahathat, 3 Maharat Road, Phraborommaharatchawang, tel. 2623-6325, [18]. Meditation classes in English are held at 7-10AM, 1-4PM and 6-8PM everyday in section 5 of the temple. Attendance is free of charge, but donations are welcome. Getting there: Take the river taxi to Chang Pier (between Silpakorn University and the Thammasat University). From there the center is a short walk.
* The World Fellowship of Buddhists. 2nd Floor, No.616 Benjasiri Park, Soi Medhinivet (off Soi Sukhumvit 24), tel:2661-1284(-90), [19]. Offers meditation classes in English from 2 to 5:30PM on the first Sunday of every month. The office also provides information on places to learn and practice meditation in Thailand. Classes and information are free.
[edit] Thai massage
* Union of Thai Traditional Medicine Society offers a more than reasonable alternative to the courses in Wat Po, as they pay more attention to the individual student and practices, conveniently located close to the China Town Pier (No. 5). Contact: Mr. Praphai Kingmala (66) - 087-929-8574, 272 - 274 Rachawong Rd., Sampantawong.
Bangkok not only has plenty of Thai restaurants, but a wide-selection of world-class international cuisine too. Prices are generally high by Thai standards, but cheap by international standards; a good meal is unlikely to cost more than 300 baht, although there are a few restaurants (primarily in hotels) where you can easily spend 10 times this.
* Phad Thai and curry shops everywhere
* Tom Yum Goong, don't miss to try one of the most famous soup
* Street vendors selling satay with hot sauce (for 5-10 baht a piece)
* Bugs - yes, insects. They are deep fried, nutritious and quite tasty with the soy sauce that is sprayed on them. Types available: scorpions, water beetles, grasshoppers, crickets, bamboo larvae, mealworms, and some more seasonal specialties. Note: break off the legs from grasshoppers and crickets or they will get stuck in your throat.
* Chinatown has a range of street stalls and cheap restaurants selling food (try 1kg of huge barbecued prawns or tom yam with prawns for 300 baht) to the discerning local population
* All the Thai restaurant chains covered in the main Thailand article
* Restaurants featuring cuisine from all over the world on Sukhumvit Road and Khao San Road
The Dome, Silom
Bangkok's nightlife is notorious, although recent social order campaigns have put a bit of a clamp on things: in particularly, nearly all restaurants, bars and clubs are now forced to close before 1 AM, a few are allowed to stay open till 2 AM. (Informal sidewalk bars do stay open all night, particularly in lower Sukhumvit.) You must carry your passport for ID checks and police occasionally raid bars, subjecting all customers to drug tests.
One of Bangkok's main party districts is Silom, home not only to perhaps the world's most famous go-go bar strip Patpong, but plenty of more legitimate establishments catering to all tastes. For a drink with a view, the open-air rooftop bar/restaurants of Vertigo and Sirocco are particularly impressive. Similar bars to the ones at Patpong can be found in the lower Sukhumvit area, at Nana Entertainment Plaza (soi 4) and Soi Cowboy (soi 23), while a large number of more trendy and more expensive bars and nightclubs can be found in the higher sois as well, eg. Thong Lor (soi 55), Bed superclub, Q Bar, or Met bar. Hippie hangout Khao San Road is also slowly gentrifying and there are even some Thais venturing into what were once mere backpacker bars, but most Thais still prefer to congregate around Ratchadaphisek.
[edit] Go-go and beer bars
Behaving while misbehavin'
Some simple rules of etiquette to follow in a go-go bar:
* A drink in your hand is required at all times. Most places charge around 100 baht for most drinks.
* Lady drinks cost a little more and earn you the privilege of chatting with the lady of your choice for a while.
* Taking a dancer out of her place of employment before closing time will cost you a bar fine of around 500 baht. This is the bar's share, the rest is up to you two.
* No photos inside. If you're lucky, you'll merely have your camera confiscated, but you also stand a fair chance of getting beaten up for your trouble.
* Look, but don't touch (unless invited to). Getting too frisky will get you kicked out.
* Bring along your passport. Police raids are not uncommon and you're off to the brig for the night if you can't produce one on demand.
The go-go bar is an institution of Bangkok's "naughty nightlife". In a typical go-go, several dozen dancers in bikinis (or less) crowd the stage, shuffling back and forth to loud music and trying to catch the eye of punters in the audience. Some (but not all) also put on shows where girls perform on stage, but these are generally tamer than you'd expect — nudity, for example, is technically forbidden. In a beer bar, there are no stages and the girls are wearing street clothes.
If this sounds like a thinly veiled veneer for prostitution, it is. Though some point to the large number of American GIs during the Vietnam War as the point of origin of the Thai sex trade, others have claimed that Thai lax attitudes towards sexuality have deeper roots in Thai history. Both Go-go and Beer Bars are squarely aimed at the farang and it's fairly safe to assume that all Thais in them are on the take. That said, it's perfectly OK to check out these shows without actually partaking, and there are more and more curious couples and even the occasional tour group attending. The main areas are around Patpong, Nana Entertainment Plaza and Soi Cowboy.
See also the Stay safe|Prostitution section.
[edit] Gay nightlife
Thais are generally accepting of homosexuality and Bangkok has a very active gay nightlife scene, concentrated in Silom Sois 2 & 4 and a short strip of gay go-gos bars off nearby Th Surawong. Most of these bars, however, are aimed at gay men and the lesbian scene is much more low-key. However, there are two full-time lesbian bars (Zeta and Shela) and one Saturday-night only (Lesla) lesbian bar in Bangkok. The most popular gay bars are Balcony and Telephone bar at Silom soi 4 and for the disco club is DJ Station which located at Silom soi 2 (crowded everynight from 11 p.m.). Bring along your passport for entrance age checking (they do not allow people under 20 years old). Closing time is 2-3 a.m.
In a league of their own are Bangkok's numerous transsexuals (kathoey), both pre- and post-operative, popularly known as ladyboys. Some work in the famed transvestite cabarets and there are some dedicated kathoey bars as well, but most do their best to blend in and many have the art of deception down pat. Telltale signs to look out for include tall height, large hands and an Adam's apple.
Note that some Thai regulars in the gay nightlife scene skirt the fine line between partying and prostitution, and the Western visitor, being considered richer, is expected to pay any food and drink expenses and perhaps provide some "taxi money" in the morning. It's usually wise to ask a boy you pick up in a bar or club if he is after money, as it's not uncommon for them to start demanding money after sex.
Racks of clothing at Siam Square
Bangkok is full of shopping malls and street markets of all types, especially in the Sukhumvit area; see the section for details. Prices can be cheap by Western standards, especially for locally produced items such as clothes, although bargaining is expected and required. Dump a teenager in MBK or Emporium with a few thousand baht and they'll stay occupied for the rest of the week! Most malls tend to have excellent food courts.
Weekend Market: A major attraction on weekends is the gigantic Chatuchak Weekend Market (also a.k.a. JJ Market), in northern Bangkok but easily accessible by Skytrain and Metro. Takes around an hour on the bus from Khao San Road area and has 20,000 stalls selling everything from counterfeit goods, animals, art, furniture and probably anything else you can think of. Definitely worth a visit for the sheer size of it.
Night Market: Hugely popular with tourists & locals alike is the open air Suan Lum Night Bazaar. This is a large and colourful market offering bargains on everything from clothes, bags, crockery to organic foods. There is a large food court with a live band every night. Covered in more detail in the Silom section. Note that as of March of 2007 there is a current worry that the Night Bazaar may be evicted from its premises and replaced by real estate development. The current management of the thriving bazaar, as well as the vendors in its stalls, are resisting eviction, but the owners of the land -- namely the property management company owned by Thailand's king -- is planning the eviction, which may happen as soon as April 2007.
Computer Mall: Pantip Plaza is a multi level computer mall selling everything from branded laptops to cheap VOIP phones and pirated DVDs. A must for any computer & electronics buff.
See also: Electronics and entertainment shopping in Thailand
Bangkok's pharmacies (drugstores) tend to offer a very wide range of (wholly legal and legitimate) medicines and herbal remedies at a fraction of Western prices, including many drugs that would require a doctor's prescription in other countries. Thai pharmacists tend to be exceptionally helpful, and most speak excellent English. There are small, independent pharmacists on almost every corner, and you'll find bigger (and more expensive) chains on the major streets and in shopping centers. Boots is probably the most ubiquitous chain; they're also a reliable source for traveler's toiletries.
Books: B2S on the the 3rd floor of the Central World Plaza is Bangkok's largest bookstore, holding around 30,000 titles (many in English) and large selection of magazines. Japanese chain Kinokuniya also has a large outlet in Siam Paragon (Level 3 South), with a good selection of guidebooks and comics in English.
Clothing: Bangkok is well-known for it's plethora of tailors and high-quality fabric available locally. As a rule of thumb, avoid ANY tailor that you're taken to since many are frequent bribers of tuktuk drivers and others. Generally Sukhumvit-area tailors are western-oriented.
Bangkok has a vast range of accommodation, including some of the best hotels in the world — and some of the worst dives too. Broadly speaking, Khao San Road is backpacker city; the riverside by Rattanakosin is home to The Oriental and The Peninsula, often ranked among the best in the world (and priced to match); and Sukhumvit Road has hotels for all budgets.
When choosing your digs, pay careful attention to Skytrain and Metro access; a well-placed station will make your stay in Bangkok much more comfortable.
Given its size and poverty level Bangkok is surprisingly safe, with violent crimes like mugging and robbery unusual. However, Bangkok does have more than its fair share of touting and scams, and quite a few individuals in the tourist business think nothing of overcharging visitors.
Make a photocopy of your passport and the page with your visa stamp. Always keep your passport or the photocopy with you (the law requires that you carry your actual passport at all times, however in practice a photocopy will usually suffice). Many night clubs insist on a passport (and ONLY a passport) as proof of age. It is not required that you leave your passport with a hotel when you check in.
Carrying your own padlock is a good idea, as budget rooms sometimes use them instead of (or as well as) normal door locks; carry a spare key someplace safe, like your money belt, otherwise considerable expense as well as inconvenience may result should you lose the original. Also consider some type of cable to lock your bag to something too big to fit through the door or window.
[edit] Scams
Some common scams and guidelines for avoiding them:
* Beware of all offers of gems and (supposedly) precious stones. These sophisticated and highly professional "special discount" scams, often involving promises of high resale value back home at a supposedly huge profit, sometimes even employ foreigners to act as satisfied customers.
* Beware of tuk-tuk drivers offering all-day tours for prices as low as 10 baht. You may indeed be taken on a full-day tour, but you will only end up visiting one gem and souvenir shop after another. The driver gets a commission if you buy something and gas coupons even if you don't.
* Insist on the meter for taxis, and agree on a price in advance for tuk-tuks. If they refuse, or quote silly prices, just walk out and get a different one, they're rarely in short supply.
* Be highly skeptical of anyone telling you that your intended destination is currently closed (including skytrain and subway stations), or offering discount admissions. Temples are almost always free (the main exceptions are Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Pho) and open just about every day of the year. Anyone telling you otherwise is most likely out to scam you.
* There is no such thing as a Lucky Buddah or Lucky Buddah day!
* At popular tourist sites, if an English-speaking Thai approaches you out of the blue and strikes up a conversation, be wary: they are almost certainly selling something. If they ask you if it's your first time in Thailand, it's probably best to answer 'no' and walk away.
* In the go-go bar zones, beware of touts who try to drag you into the upstairs bars with offers of ping-pong shows and 100-baht beer. The beer may well be 100 baht, but the "show" you'll be treated to will be 1000 baht or more. Rule of thumb is, if you can't see inside from street level, the establishment is best avoided.
* Beware of private bus companies offering direct trips from Bangkok to other cities with VIP buses. There are a lot of scams performed by some private bus companies. The so-called direct VIP trips may end up changing three or four uncomfortable minibuses to the destination, the 10-11 hours trip may be 17-18 hours. Try to book public BKS buses from the main bus terminals.
[edit] Prostitution
The age of consent is 15 but a higher minimum age of 18 applies in the case of prostitutes. Penalties for sex with minors are harsh.
All adult Thais must carry an identity card, which will state that they were born in 2531 or earlier if they were over the age of 18 on January 1st 2007 (in the Thai calendar, CE 2007 is the year 2550). Many hotels retain the ID cards of prostitutes for the duration of their visit.
Whilst most prostitutes are employed by bars or similar businesses, some are "freelancers". Petty theft and other problems are more common with "freelancers".
HIV/AIDS awareness is better than it used to be but infection statistics among entertainment industry workers remain high; "freelancers" are the highest risk group. Almost all girls insist on using condoms.
Technically, some aspects of prostitution are illegal (eg soliciting, pimping), however enforcement is liberal and brothels are commonplace. It's not illegal to pay for sex or to pay a "barfine" (a fee the bar collects if you want to take an employee away).
The novel "The Butterfly Trap" gives a realistic first-person account of Bangkok's nightlife industry.
If you want to get out of the city for a while, there are plenty of day trip options from Bangkok.
* The ancient capital of Ayutthaya and its many ruins are just 1.5 hours away by bus or train.
* The magnificent royal palace at Bang Pa-In makes for a pleasant day trip.
* The Burma Death Railway and some good national parks can be found in Kanchanaburi Province to the west.
* The island of Ko Kret, upriver from Bangkok in Nonthaburi Province, makes a pleasant day trip out of the concrete jungle.
* The island of Ko Samet is one of the closer Thai beach islands; direct bus (from Ekamai) + ferry (from Ban Phe) takes about 4 hours.
* Well off the tourist trail, the surreal UFO-shaped temple of Wat Phra Dhammakaya is in Rangsit, an hour north of Bangkok.
* The naughty nightlife of Pattaya is 2 to 2.5 hours away by bus, an hour or so more by train.
written by  garisti on July 1, 2006 from Bangkok, Thailand

Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya, Thailand
Ayutthaya (อยุธยา) is an ancient capital and modern city in the Central Plains of Thailand, 85 km to the north of Bangkok.
Wat Phra Si Sanphet
Founded by King U-Thong in 1350 within a bend of the Chao Phraya river, Ayutthaya was the capital of the Thai kingdom at its mightiest. Conquered and sacked by the Burmese in 1767, today only ruins of its splendor remain.
Among Thai cities, Ayutthaya's English name is probably the least standardized. Ayutthaya, Ayuttaya, Ayuthaya, Ayutaya, Ayothaya, Ayotaya, Ayudhya and even the Sanskrit original Ayodhya (usually referring to the Indian city) are all used.
The cheapest and most colorful way of reaching Ayutthaya is by train. All north and north-east line trains depart from Bangkok's Hualamphong Train Station and stop in Ayutthaya, a trip of about 1.5 hours. Second class costs 35 baht (seats can be booked in advance), while third class is just 20 baht (no reservations).
Ayutthaya's train station is to the east of the central island. The easiest way to get to central Naresuan Road is to walk straight ahead from the station and take the cross-river ferry for 2 baht.
Buses operate every 20 minutes or so from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal (Moh Chit) directly to Ayutthaya. First class air-con buses charge 45 baht, while second class is 35 baht. Allow at least two hours for the trip since the buses stop rather frequently and there are often jams on the roads out of/into Bangkok.
In Ayutthaya, the central BKS bus station is on the south side of Thanon Naresuan next to the Chao Phrom Market. songthaews to Bang Pa-In also leave from here. Some 1st-class buses to Bangkok, however, leave from the north side of the road some 500m to the west, on the other side of the khlong (canal); the queue for air-con buses is easy to spot.
From Kanchanaburi, take a local bus from the main bus station to Suphanburi for 45 baht (2 hours), then another local bus to Ayutthaya for 40 baht (1.5 hours). A taxi from Kanchanaburi costs 2000-2500 baht (2 hours).
There is also a central bus station east of town serving northern destinations. It can be reached by songthaew - ask around to find the appropriate stop.
[edit] By minibus
Convenient minibus service (can get stuck in traffic, but makes no stops like regular buses) operates from the Victory Monument square in Bangkok. Take BTS Skytrain to the Victory Monument station, and go right on the elevated walkway - keep on it until you cross a large road, then descend - the buses are parked at the side side of the main traffic circle). The cost is usually ~80 baht, takes around 1 hour.
Minibuses from Kanchanaburi can be arranged by guesthouses or any tour operators for around 350 baht.
Cruise boats run up the river from Bangkok, often stopping at Ko Kret and Bang Pa-In along the way. You'll need to book in advance as there are no scheduled services, just trips for tourists. It's a fairly lengthy trip (at least one whole day) and some of the larger boats offer (pricy) overnight tours.
It is advised to rent a bicycle. You should get a copy of a map for free at the shop that rents you the bicycle. If you are physically larger than most Thais, be warned that the larger bicycles are not necessarily well maintained, so be sure that they work properly (seats well attached, handlebars don't slip in relation to front wheel direction) before you leave.
Alternatively, you can hop around town by tuk-tuk or motorbike for 20-30 baht a pop. Ayutthaya's tuk-tuks are larger than the Bangkok variety and you can easily squeeze in four or more on the two songthaew-style facing benches. Only "official" tuk-tuk drivers can pick up passengers from the train station (their photos are displayed on a board at the southern end of the platform) and they are required to work to a fixed scale of charges.
The local bus to Lopburi leave the main bus station every 20 minutes and pass Wat Nah Phra Meru.
Most of Ayutthaya's sites are on the protected western half of the island, while the modern city sprawls to the east. There are additional sites off the main island.
[edit] Temples
The temples with entry charges are usually in ruins, so there is no dress code, although visitors are still requested to refrain from blatant stupidity like clambering up the Buddha statues. Working temples tend to charge no fees and there are often no officials to check that dress is appropriate.
* Wat Phra Si Sanphet (Sri Sanphet Rd) is the largest temple in Ayutthaya, known for its row of chedis (Thai-style stupas). Housed within the grounds of the former royal palace, the wat was used only for royal religious ceremonies. It once housed a 16-meter Buddha covered with 340 kg of gold, but the Burmese set fire to the statue to melt the gold and destroyed the temple in the process. Entrance fee of 30 baht.
* Viharn Phra Mongkol Bopitah (Sri Sanphet Rd) is next to Wat Phra Si Sanphet and houses a large bronze cast Buddha image. No entry charge.
* Ancient Palace (access through Wat Phra Sri Sanphet, no additional entry charge) is mostly low-lying ruins set in large grounds, with only a few free standing buildings remaining.
Wiharn at Wat Thammikarat
* Wat Thammikarat (U-Thong Rd) is a working wat, but also contains the ruins of a large chedi and a huge wiharn which has a large tree growing picturesquely out of the side of one wall. No entry charge.
* Wat Ratchaburana (Naresuan Rd) stands out for having a large prang recently restored to its original condition, clearly visible if you come in from the east. A major find of golden statues and other paraphernalia was made here in 1958, although much was subsequently stolen by robbers — the remnants are now in the Chao Sam Phraya Museum. You can climb inside the prang for nice views and a little exhibit. The mysterious staircase down, leads to two unrestored rooms with original paintings still visible on the walls. Entrance fee of 30 baht.
Headless Buddha statues, Wat Mahathat
* Wat Phra Mahathat (Naresuan Rd), across the road from Wat Ratburana, is a large temple that was quite thoroughly ransacked by the Burmese. Several Leaning Prangs of Ayutthaya are still feebly defying gravity though, and the rows of headless Buddhas are atmospheric. This is also where you can spot the famous tree that has grown around a Buddha head. Entrance fee of 30 baht.
* Wat Phra Ram (Sri Sanphet Road) consists of one huge prang and some smaller chedi and outbuildings, all in disrepair though the top of the prang is complete. Staircases to the side of the prang give views of Ayutthaya. Entry charge of 30 baht.
Phra Chedi Sisuriyothai
* Phra Chedi Sisuriyothai (U-Thong Rd) is a white and gold coloured chedi built as a memorial to a previous queen. Set in a small, well-kept gardens. No entry charge.
Chedi at Wat Phu Khao Thong
* Wat Phu Khao Thong (about 3km out of town, west off the Ang Thong Rd) is a huge white, and slightly wonky, chedi set in a big field. The actual nearby wat is still working and has small grounds with a smiling fat buddha image set in the ruins of a small viharn. You will see the Monument of King Naresuan the Great on the way. No entry charge.
* Wat Cheung Tha (about 1km out of town, east off the Ang Thong Rd) is a small working wat with small grounds with chedi and viharn ruins and some buddha images. No entry charge.
* Wat Nah Phra Meru (about 1km out of town, east from Wat Cheung Tha) has a large viharn containing the biggest bronze buddha image in Ayutthaya, cast dressed in full royal regalia. The viharn is set in well maintained grounds with buddha images, a small koi carp pond, and three ruined chedis, one of which has a large bodhi tree growing out of the top of it. No entry charge.
* Wat Phanancherng (on the Bang Pa-in Rd, about 1.5km out of town) is a working wat which contains the oldest large cast bronze Buddha image in Ayutthaya, though it was covered in scaffold in June 2006 for refurbishment. There is a small room to the right of the main hall which contains a nice collection of Buddha images and the room is painted with many individual unique pictures, in bright colours offset with gold. Entry charge of 20 baht.
Wat Yai Chaimonkorn, Courtyard with Buddha Images
* Wat Yai Chaimongkon (on the Bang Pa-in Rd, 1km east of Wat Phanancherng) is a large working wat, with ruins that appear on some of the well known photos of temples in Thailand. It features a large reclining Buddha in saffron robes in its own ruined wiharn, and, most spectacularly, a huge chedi swathed in golden cloth set in a courtyard which is lined by Buddha images all wearing saffron robes. Very photogenic. Entry charge of 20 baht.
[edit] Museums
* Chao Sam Phraya Museum (Rojana Rd) is where you can find some of the Buddha heads that are so conspicuously missing at the sites themselves. Opened in 1961 and looks the part. Perhaps the most interesting displays are the golden regalia from Wat Ratchaburana, on the 2nd floor of Hall 1. Open Wed-Sun from 9 AM to 4 PM, entrance 30 baht.
* Ayutthaya Historical Study Centre (Rojana Rd), across the road and to the east of the Chao Sam Phraya museum, is a more modern museum that tries to depict life in Ayutthaya with models. A good place to start or end your tour, but a little pricy (by Thai standards) at 100 baht.
[edit] Parks/Other
* Phra Ram Park (behind Wat Mahathat) is a large wooded area with paths and bridges over waterways leading the way past various statues, buddha images and buildings. No entry charge.
* Khun Phaen Residence (Sri Sanphet Rd) is a renovated traditional teak house set in a good-sized park with water and various seating areas. The elephants doing the tourist circuit stop here for photos, with Wat Phra Ram in the background. No entry charge.
* Monument of King Naresuan the Great (in front of Wat Phu Khao Thong), is a large bronze statue of King Naresuan on a horse. Situated on the entrance road to Wat Phu Khao Thong.
* Chao Phrom Market. Corner of Naresuan and Uthong Roads (on the east edge of the island). A bustling provincial market. There are particularly many protective Buddha amulet vendors here.
* Siam Restaurant (Chee Kun Rd) serves unremarkable Thai and Vietnamese food, but makes up for it with an excellent location with views of Wat Mahathat as you eat, air conditioning, and possibly the best toilets in the city. Most mains 50-100 baht.
* Boat noodle In front of telephone authority building. Original boat noodle was cooked on a boat. It's noodles and soup with meat and vegetables. They are served in a little bowl and most people would eat more than one to relieve their hunger. Expect to pay about 10 Baht per bowl.
* Vegetarian Restaurant,Khlong Makham Rieng Rd (50 metres south from the junction with Naresuan Rd), is one of the usual Thai rahn a-hahn jair. With 8 different meals available and side orders of gluten and gluten. Daily early-2PM. 15-25B.
* The usual excellent night market fare is also available, ask your guesthouse for the most recent night market locations. At the same time, you may wish to ask some advice on what to order if you don't speak any Thai.
The main traveller oriented area is Soi Torgorsor, between Pamaphrao Road and Naresuan Road opposite the western end of Chao Phrom Market. It has a number of bars staying open until late, some with projection screens for sports.
There are a large number of traveller-oriented guesthouses on an Soi Torgorsor between Pamaphrao Road and Naresuan Road, opposite the western end of the Chao Phrom Market. Accommodation in the upper price brackets is limited though, and many people choose to day-trip from Bangkok.
* Ayutthaya Guest House - a friendly place offering aircon rooms with TV for 400 baht, and fan-only with TV for 300 baht, all en-suite. With internet access and a 'order what you like' restaurant. The three 300 baht rooms along the side alley have air vents open to a public restaurant next-door.
Other guest houses:
* Thong Chai Guest House - on a road directly opposite Wat Ratchaburana and a little away from the main action, but closer to the sights. Offering fan-only rooms at 200 a night with private bathrooms, this is a more Thai-oriented guest house.
* P-U Guest House - despite its name, the place provides very clean rooms for a decent rate (~300 Baht for twin with fan and private bath, some knowledge of Thai may net you a small discount). It's hidden off Soi Torgorsor, keep walking north until you see the P-U sign on the left, it's at the end of the small lane.
Ayutthaya has a lot of hungry stray dogs in poor condition. They can particularly be a problem in the off-season when there aren't so many people in the streets. While largely docile and harmless, to avoid being chased around by a pack of them it is best not to walk around alone, particularly at night. For those accustomed to travel in developing areas, there should be no problem.
* The eccentric palace of Bang Pa-In, 20 km to the south, is 40-minute songthaews ride away
written by  garisti on July 1, 2008 from Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya, Thailand

Singapore, Singapore
Singapore (Chinese: 新加坡 , Malay: Singapura, Tamil: சிங்கப்பூர) is an island-state in Southeast Asia, connected by bridges to Malaysia. Founded as a British trading colony in 1819, since Independence it has become one of the world's most prosperous countries, sporting the world's busiest port. Combining the skyscrapers and subways of a modern, affluent city with a medley of Chinese, Indian and Malay influences and a lush tropical climate, with tasty food, good shopping and a happening, vibrant nightlife scene, this Garden City makes a great stopover or springboard into the region.
"Disneyland with the death penalty" or the "world's only shopping mall with a seat in the United Nations" - William Gibson
written by  garisti on August 1, 2008 from Singapore, Singapore

Jaisalmer, India
Jaisalmer, the "Golden City", is located on the westernmost frontier of India in the state of Rajasthan. Close to the border with Pakistan, the city is known for its proximity to the Thar Desert. Desert Safari in the sand dunes of Jaisalmer is an unforgettable experience.
The city is dominated by the Jaisalmer Fort. Unlike most forts in India, the Jaisalmer Fort is a living fort. There are shops, hotels, age old havelis (homes) inside the fort area.
written by  garisti on September 1, 2008 from Jaisalmer, India

Delhi, India
Delhi (Hindi: दिल्ली, Urdu: دلّی, Punjabi: ਦਿੱਲੀ) [1] is northern India's largest city. One part of it, known as New Delhi (Hindi: नई दिल्ली Naï Dillî), is officially designated the capital of India, but the names are often used interchangeably.
written by  garisti on September 1, 2008 from Delhi, India