Yunnan, China - prrrrl

I still hear in English

prrrrl — Thu, 22 Mar 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Three new people checked into my room. They were all Chinese from Guang Zhou. We chatted the usual 'where are you from, where are you going, how long have you been traveling' conversation - all in Chinese! I was so proud of myself. They spoke slowly, I spoke slowly. But the communication worked!

Then I heard, "Beijing how long?" "One week," I answered. But he had said, "Beijing hau leng?" which means, 'is it very cold in Beijing?' proving that I'm stuck in English whether I try or not.

:-/

The Developing Country Game!

prrrrl — Fri, 16 Mar 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Let's count how many things can go wrong in one day:

Haven't eaten in 36 hours due to stomach bug. -1

Even after drinking water, I don't need to use the toilet +1

Pack bags quickly and am out of room early. +1

Bus not there at expected time -1

Comment to staff that bus is late, staff looks surprised; he checks book - my name is not on the list but I have the receipt. Best guess is he forgot and I actually missed the bus even though I was waiting well before departure. -5

Staff quickly refunds the 10rmb difference in cost for the next bus. +1

Small bottle of plum juice [a Yunnan specialty] does not upset my tummy. +1

Next bus is also late. -2

Taxi comes, takes me three blocks to bus. Bus than drives rigth past hostel. I realize that though the hostel says no 'booking fee' I probably could have crossed the road and caught the very same bus for about half the price. -3

I happen to pick the shaded side of the bus, so no sun in my eyes. +0.5

Two lanes of traffic headed North on a two lane road [the truck on the left was passing a vehicle on the right] means total traffic stoppage. People are getting out of their vehicles to look at the road block. I've got a plane to catch and I'm already twice delayed! -5 [Turns out it was a traffic accident, the passing truck forced a south-bound van to veer to its left but the veer was insufficiant and CRASH! Twas just the corner of the passenger side so hopefully no one was injured.]

Traffic delay number two - just an overturned mini-truck on the side of the road to drive around. At least it was a shorter delay. -1

Three hour bus to Lijiang takes 4 hours to get to Lijiang outskirts. -2

Dropped off at airport road. I thought I was to flag down another bus but it turned out that the airport was literally across the road. I walked up the trafficless Departure Ramp to the terminal. +3

Lugged all my travel possessions in two backpacks [one worn front, one back] the block distance to the terminal without having eaten any solid food in 40+ hours. -1

Get to the airport 30 minutes before the check in counter closes for my flight. Phew! +1

Chose the shortest line at the check-in counter but apparently the slowest agent. The line next to me moved much faster. -1

Agent tells me I don't have a ticket. I show her my passport. No. I show her my ticket number as emailed to me by Delta. Nope. "Take your luggage and go to the ticket counter across the hall." -2

Ticket counter checks my passport & ticket number. Verdict? No ticket. :-O -6

Delta's China ticket office is only open during US business hours which means that's it is closed during China's business day. Now what?? I guess that my boarding pass for my flight from Beijing will prove that I have a ticket. I actually find it and... I'm right! They send me back to the check in counter. +5

It is 2 minutes past check in counter closing time [30 minutes before flight time]. They check me in quickly and tag my bag. -/+0 [They had better check me in quickly!]

I still have security to go through and the get to get to. Final score??? I made it to Beijing. But what a day!

The ticket number Delta gave me had one extra digit on the end. But wouldn't my name have made the difference? There were only two people on the flight with non-character names. It's not like there was a Jane Fu Jonah Du on the flight. Not in English, anyway.

Just not my day? Just not my two weeks!

prrrrl — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 00:00:00 GMT

I've had a very bad chest & head cold since the start of my vacation. Today is my last day. The coughing and sniffling have tapored off but are still there. So what happens the last day? Emptying of my digestive tract at both ends. I'm 'home' in my hostel bed with an upset tummy. Are vacations suppose to be like this?

Hygiene disaster averted!

prrrrl — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 00:00:00 GMT

During my lovely visit amongst the tea bushes where I was enjoying a local brew I almost had too much hospitality. My cup had cooled a bit so I decided to pour it into my almost empty water bottle. One of the gents saw this and that my water bottle was still not refilled. He took his tea bottle and with out asking started to pour his tea into my bottle. "Enough, enough!" I have have enough tea, thank you. Not a drop of his made it into mine. If you've ever been to China you'll understand...

Tea party!

prrrrl — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The poster in the room suggesting visiting a tea plantation as part of a custom tour where you hire a car for a day. Can I get there on public transit?

"Four kilometer walk from the bus stop."

"No problem, I can walk that far."

"The way is not marked; it will be hard to find."

"I speak enough Chinese and you've written down the location in characters. I can ask for directions long the way."

Short walk to the bus station. Inquired around for my destination and the first minivan was going my way. 3rmb [48 cents.]

The driver stops to let me out. I ask at the corner convenience store for the 'tea factory.' Straight up the road. Easy.

I found the tea factory but nothing of note was happening except renovations. "I want to see tea bushes." "Up the road to and to the left."

I did have to guess as when to go left. My first instinct was correct. Easy.

I did have to pass a gate guard house* where I wrote down my name. They also wanted my company and phone number. I suppose I could have made something up but I just said I don't have one for the first and that I forgot for the second. One asked about smoking. I thought maybe he was asking for a bribe. The other guard did not want me to pass. The first let me.

On I walked. I passed an electric grid substation and a nice but uninhabited compound. The stone road wound its way up the mountainside.

As last I saw rows and rows of short green bushes. Tea! I crunched up a leaf. No aroma. At the factory I was told that it was the wrong season. Further on many bushes were pruned of all leaves, just many gray stumps in a clump. Didn't matter - I've now been to a tea plantation in Yunnan. I walked on.

I passed a few rough and simple homes*, laundry & corn drying in the courtyard. I passed several graves* scattered about the tea bushes, all facing somewhat to the east.

Below me were towns, villages, factories and farmlands stretching to the lake, beyond which were low hills barely visible in the haze. Above me were snow-sprinkled mountain tops. Let's keep walking!

After some time I was passed on a motor bike by a local. I soon came to his destination. Not to many people on this road [I saw some power company people at the substation and no one since] and far fewer big noses, if any. He greated me and asked if I'd like some water or tea. I'm in Yunnan, the home of some of the finest teas in the world and I've just made a pilgramage to a tea plantation even though it's out of season... "Tea, please!!!" There was a small building consisting of open courtyard on the east and three small rooms across the west. The only entrance was from the south. Wanted and conduct posters told me it was a work station of some sort, not a home. The 10 people, 2 women and 8 men, were finishing up lunch, one dish still sizzling in the wok. They invited me eat! A huge pot of steamed rice sat on the table, enough for 20 more people. One gentleman took a thermos of hot water and rinced a bowl and pair of chopsticks. He wiped the rim of the bowl with his probably rarely washed fingers. I ate. I drank tea a few feet from where it's grown. I listened to them laugh hartily, probably at me some of the times. They seemed a happy lot.

Three started singing in turns, each turn being lengthy. I assume it was a tradition Chinese ditty but there must have been some improvisation as one line was sung directly to one gentleman and everyone but me roared in laughter.

But I must return to civilization and end my lovely walk and visit at the foot of the mountain*. Sigh...

Twas super easy day. I walked many more than four kilometers just because it was such a beautiful day with the blue-est skies* I've ever seen in China. It was quiet and wooded - perfect recipe for a walk. When I returned to the hostel I drew a map of my route so the next tea aficionado can make the same trek. So if you're ever in Dali and want to see the tea plantation just go to the Jade Emu and ask for Jan't map. I signed it.

Photos coming soon.

Sobriety test

prrrrl — Mon, 12 Mar 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Ate at a local place for dinner. It was packed! Only one table was open and it was a little squatty one near the open door. I had to sit on an 8 inch high stool. But packed is a good sign, right?

In this case the locals packing it were significantly comprised of women in towel turbans. This is a minority group I had not seen yet. One had an hommage to Yassar Arafat but in baby blue. It was either that or she was trying to camouflage a cowboy hat.

My meal was good and it just felt right being in a place filled with so many lovely ladies.

But right next to my squatty table was a group of men. The two closest to me offered me what appeared to be hard liquer carted in a Sprite bottle. Had they been sober, one refusal should have surficed, right? I had to turn them down 5 times! Sobriety test? FAIL!

Tomorrow's itinerary

prrrrl — Mon, 12 Mar 2012 00:00:00 GMT

AM: Walked around Dali's Old City; found the local market which was very photogenic. Tried to retrace my steps to the walnut lady but could not find her after three attempts. Bought fruit.

AM: Walked atop the [new] Old City wall and enjoyed many picturesque views. Filled my SD card in my camera - sat for a long time deleting photos and videos. The 'highlight' was finding an almost 6 minute accidental video. It was from the vantage point of my belly of me washing my hands, breathing, flossing - quite a hoot! DELETE!

PM: Ate spicy mint for lunch. Not a favorite but worth a try.

PM: Went for an oil foot massage. I fell asleep at one point so was pretty good.

PM: Inquired at the front desk about walking to a pagoda I was prominantly from the [new] Old City wall. It looked close enough to reach on foot but I wanted to be sure there weren't fences or such in the way. She suggested I take a bus. She wrote the name of the stop. Having been informed by the same person that I could flag down the #4 bus anywhere along the road I stood off the side walk & waited. The first bus came and by the time I noticed the small #4 it was too late to flag it down. The second would not stop. Neither did the third. The fourth bus did stop. I showed the driver the stop I wanted and paid my 1.5rmb. I assumed it would be only 2 or 3 stops away. Miles away I ask my seat mate about the stop I want. We had passed it long ago. The bus driver than acknowledged that he had forgotten. I motioned to get off so that I could cross the street and hail a bus going back the way I wanted. He said to stay and he'd get me there on the return trip. That he did. But I had to go all the way to the bottom of the lake eating up a lot of time. But hey, I guess he saved me 24 cents. :-/ At the bus station I had to switch to another bus, my first driver explaining to the second driver why I didn't have to pay and where I was to get off. I could have walked there by now! Well, I finally was advised as to where to get off and... it was not the pagoda I had wanted to visit. It was no where near the city wall I was looking from. But there I was road side. I crossed the street. The temple was shut and locked. I walked around the side. Behind the complex holding two pagodas and across the alley was an open temple. I wandered through there taking pictures. It was quite nice but I'm getting templed out. I wanted to climb a pagoda! I went back to the road and caught another #4 bus back to my guest house. I told the desk sraff of the misunderstanding and my misadventure. The owner [who is native English speaking] tells me the pagoda I want to see is an easy walk, no fences or barriers of consequence. Tomorrow's challenge!

Disney Dali

prrrrl — Mon, 12 Mar 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Trams zipping through the streets, guides on loud speakers. Where am I? I'm in Dali. The mountains are close by to the west causing an early sunset. The lake is visible if on the [new] old city wall. Contruction everywhere. Gorgeous cherry blossoms everywhere, too. Beautiful blue skies & pleasant tempuratures. Could be worse. When do the tours leave???

Too hard!

prrrrl — Sat, 10 Mar 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Today I hiked with two Chileans & a Dutchman to some famous old grottoes in the hillsides near Shaxi. There are many and spread far apart in the hills. Seeing them all would take one very long day of non-stop hiking. We opt for a few along a curving path. A mini-van & driver will meet us at the end.

We make it to the first set [that include 'fertility' symbols on lotus pads]. To be cautious we inquire of the route to our next destination. The man says too difficult, go back to the parking lot and walk from there. Back to the parking lot would be a difficult down into the valley and up the other side that we already trekked. Over & over he said to go back, our route was too difficult & we'd get lost.

Thankfully, we ignored him. The route was easy to follow and almost totally down hill unlike the deep dip & back up he was recommending us to do. And it was beautiful! Even with no millenium old carvings to look at occassionally the hike was well worth it just for the trees, hills, blue skies, rock outcroppings and and views to distant villages.

Photos coming soon!

Forget about it!

prrrrl — Sat, 10 Mar 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Cheap ride [20rmb] from Tina's to Jane's where our bags were stored. Short walk to Qiaotou. Wait by side of the road for a few minutes. Corey's bus came almost immediately; he was off for Shangri La. My bus came right after but being full did not stop. I waited an additional 10 minutes. Next appropriate bus was mostly empty of humans but FULL of molds and grime. Super yuk! But I need to be headed south so I find a seat.

After a 20 minute rest stop so the driver could eat I'm in Jianchuan about 2 hours later. I switch to a bus to Shaxi that's waiting to fill. I'm person 6 of 7. We only need one more. But two people walk up, one holding a baby. A man quickly gets off giving up his seat so the family can stay together. Nice.

1 hour later I'm in my home for the next 3 nights: Shaxi, Yunnan, the town time forgot.

To market, to market!

prrrrl — Fri, 09 Mar 2012 00:00:00 GMT

It's market day in Shaxi, a small village that once was on the Tea Horse Road where Yunnan tea was traded for Tibetan horses. The square is quaint and amazingly QUIET! I like it here! The market is in the newer part of town mostly under some metal shelters.

I saw the rug hat people and the black turban people and the woven bookmark with fringe draped across the head and held in place by a Mao cap people and the knit cap shaped like a squashed flower bud people and the animal skin on the back people and only one huge black half hexagon hanging off the back of the head person. Mostly it was the black turban people.

All these clothing distintions were only for the women. The men were drab in comparison.

I'll do my research and come up with proper tribal associations.

Twas a cool day!

TLG X Or, free ride

prrrrl — Fri, 09 Mar 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The menu at Tina's was not inspiring. Our horse guides [these people are Mountain goats - Corey & I rode, they walked the entire trail up & back down without any visible effort!] brought us back to the cozy Tibet Guesthouse for Tibetan food and the promise of a free ride back to Tina's after.

Food was fine. Beer was fine. The sun had long set. But by the time we finished our meal the kitchen was dark and not a soul to be seen or heard anywhere. "Hello?" "Wei?" I had a flashlight with me but a 3k walk in the quiet dark next to significant drop offs was not appealing.

We finally found everyone downstairs underneath the open patio we dined on. Phew!

Free ride!

TLG IX Or, no could do