TwoSouls

So Long Sweaty Shirts... Hello Hugs from Mom

TwoSouls — Thu, 29 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Greetings from Northern California. Yep, we decided to shorten our trip and head home after 5 months on the road. There are many reasons that led us to this decision - one not to ignore was our ever-so-quickly dwindling travel funds. We wanted to have a little stash of cash to help us settle back into home life again and when we found ourselves inching towards that Golden stash, we decided to save the second half of the trip for another time and hop on a flight home.

Jen gets big hugs from the In-Laws

Life on the road can be tough. While we had the time of our lives, met some amazing people (yes, that's you) and created memories that will last a lifetime, we were also tired of the backpacker circuit and all the decision making we faced day in and day out. We missed our family and friends more that we imagined and we ached to get back to some of the structure that we had created at home. I can't believe that I am admitting to missing "structure", but I guess it's engrained in me and it's something that I depend on in my comfort zone.

But the whole idea of the trip was to experience life outside our comfort zones, and that we certainly did. In flipping through the heaps of photos we took over the last months, we are flooded with all kinds of stories - good, bad and ugly with laughter strewn throughout. We haven't yet taken the time to sit down and really discuss what we felt we accomplished over the past 5 months, but it's something that we would like to do soon. We both feel that our travels, as well as all that led up to this point in time has changed us for the better.

More to follow... with love.
Jen

The Temples of Angkor and The Killing Fields

TwoSouls — Sat, 10 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

The Thailand/Cambodia border crossing

Based on the word from the backpacker streets, visiting Cambodia is something that you either love or hate. After spending 5 days there, we can see why so many people fall into that category... there is much to love if you can overlook the tough realities of this country. In one city, you've got the amazing temples of Angkor and in another, there are numerous monuments honoring the million of people killed by the Khmer Rouge in the 1970's. All around and in between is a struggle with poverty, pollution, and public health. A wave of emotions...

The ride to Siem Reap was bumpy. Like REALLY bumpy. This is the main road into the country mind you and it was a mess. We made a bit of a stink at the border trying to find an affordable option into Siem Reap - an employee at the travel agency and a police officer ended up following us up the road as we made our way to the REAL bus station to find a cheap taxi. After a debate on the rules put in place by the Tourist Department, we were able to get a taxi for $30 (down from a ridiculous $60 that we would have had to pay at the travel agency), but were forced to have an escort... beyond the whole money scam, they ended up doing what they could to make sure we were safely deliverd to Siem Reap, so it all worked out well. Phew.

Tim's turn to rest at the temples

Siem Reap is home to the Temples of Angkor, over one thousand structures build from the 9th to the 15th century A.D. It is impossible to see all of these in 1 day, but we decided to hit the highlights with a tour guide from the guesthouse. We were templed-out and dripping with sweat by late afternoon, so we hiked to the top of one last temple to enjoy the setting sun before calling it a day. These temples are amazing - most impressive being Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Bayon, Preah Khan and Phnom Bakheng - and it is easy to see why this is ranked as one of the marvels of the Middle Age. Just as with Borobudor, it is hard to describe the feeling that fills you when amist these ancient temples. A stillness follows you through the windy hallways and up and down the steep, crumbling steps. The smell of the stone and dust provoke images of those that carved each stone by hand so long ago. To me, these temples are a place for renewal... a place for forgiveness... and a reminder that there is much to have faith in.

In between visits to the temples, we had the pleasure of visiting with the local children while they hung on our pant legs and tried to sell books and trinkets. In the photo above, I got caught having to buy one thing from each little girl - they are all so precious and well-rehearsed (they will recite the basic US political statistics for you if you promise to buy a bracelet). By the last round of temple stops, the newness of the children's pleas had worn off and it became somewhat sad to see these kids begging for an American $1... how much of it is an act, we'll never know, but it can't be easy for them at 4 years old. So we bought a few little souvenirs and hoped that it would help.

After a few days in Siem Reap, we headed to the capital, Phnom Phen. It was there that we visited The Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng Museum, stationed at the infamous Security Prison 21. There are no words to describe the atrocities that occured at these locations and how they have shaped the environment in Cambodia today. When we arrived at the Killing Fields, there wasn't much to see initially, but in reading each sign erected in a specific spot beyond the gate, we learned where the prisoners arrived, where they were sorted and where they were executed and buried in mass graves. I don't want to go into too much dark detail and I doubt the photos can do any justice, but it was an experience that brought up much sadness and prayer for both of us. I prayed for their souls, that they be set free. I prayed for those that survived, that their wounds are healed and their futures bright. I prayed for the lessons learned, that history never repeat itself. Finally, I prayed for compassion, that people treat others with love and respect.

We hit the National Museum for a couple of hours and made many loops around Phnom Phen to try to capture the sights. The poverty is tough to swallow, as there are many mothers with newborns on the streets and a lot of handicap men and women hoping to make a life for themselves. But there is also beauty and a sense of pride that outdoes most nations to the west. There is hope in the hundreds of young monks collecting alms on the streets. There is hope in the numerous social programs set up to help educate the locals, create sustainable resources and get help for those that need it most. There is hope. We left Cambodia with a sense of awe and a slight sense of relief. It's not an easy stop... it forces you to think about your luxuries and your faith. We feel fortunate that we made the effort to get there and will look for ways that we might be able to help the underpriviledged there from afar.

Humble thoughts...
Jen

Binge Drinkers and Bloated Bellies in Bangkok

TwoSouls — Wed, 07 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Please don't let me lead you astray... WE ARE NOT binge drinking in Bangkok, or any other city for that matter, but it seems that the majority of our fellow travelers, as well as the locals like to "get their drink on" regularly. It's a great spot to stupify oneself, with many hip bars and alley-style cocktail stands to choose from, but it also leaves a certain residue on everything and, as we've found on more than one occasion in Thailand, makes it tough to get a good night sleep.

This is definitley a 24-hour city. You've got the bar patrons stumbling back to their rooms next door until the wee hours of the morning. You've got those catching an early flight banging around as they pack up and head out before breakfast is served. Then you've got the weary ones that are just stepping off a bus to find a cheap room to drop their stuff and start it all over again. We've found ourselves in the last two scenarios more than once and have as much patience as we can for those in that situation, but we seem to have less and less patience for the late night stream of drunken backpackers. We even had one girl try to open our door at 2:00 in the morning thinking that our room was hers...

It's not hard to spot these hardy partiers during the breakfast people-watching session. The younger guys can usually get away with a hangover a day over the course of a few weeks on the road, but some show their post-party fatigue like a badge of honor. We don't envy them, and while we do complain from time to time about the disruption they cause throughout the night, we are glad top be on the other side. We've slowed down and prefer snuggling to singapore slings... and to be honest, this makes the whole travel scene a bit difficult. I guess we are just getting a little older - there, I said it.

As for the bloated bellies, there are a few different kinds.

There is what I call the "Fried Rice 15" (as opposed to the "Freshman 15") and I would have to admit that I fall into that category. I thought I would lose weight with the lack of western fast-food and the abundance of rice (coupled with walking tours and the absense of red wine), but I was wrong. 70% of the menu falls under fried foods - fried rice, fried noodles, fried ginger, fried snails. 20% falls under curry - delicious, coconut-milk laden heaven, with heaps of calories. The other 10% falls under western food - eggs, bacon, hamburgers, club sandwiches, french fried (not an error -that's how they say it) and pancakes. And if none of that suits you, there is a 7-11 on every other corner... not a nutritious item on the shelves. So I'm feeling the bloated belly, but will likely continue to eat yummy curry and pad-thai - I'm looking forward to a proper ceasar salad when I get home, but I know I'll miss REAL thai food.

The other type of bloated belly is that which belongs to the MANY, MANY western men that come here looking for that "special massage". I don't mean to be rude and I try not to judge, but I have to say that this phenomenon, which has been going on for decades, is hard to swallow for both Tim and I. We come across endless couples walking hand in hand - the oversized, older white men with the young, petite and usually "out-of-their-league" beautiful girls. It's disturbing and confusing. And because it's a major part of Thailand's economy, it's something that I'd like to understand better. Do these men pay for all her food and buy her gifts for his entire stay? Do they summon the same girl on subsequent trips? Is there some level of "faithfullness" that occurs between these two? Did he find her in a massage parlor or was it a buddy that gave a referral? It feels like it unbalances the world, but perhaps I am just naive. We all need a little love and affection, so maybe it's perfectly harmless? The feminist in me thinks not, and I suspect that I'm not the only one who feels this way.

So Bangkok... sassy and convenient. loud and tough to cross the street. yummy smells waffing from one corner and sewage under your feet on the next. a strong sense of pride and a great place to buy a custom suit. a mixed bag.

Mmm... ceasar salad sounds good.
Peace out - Jen

A Real Hotel and Shop-Till-You-Drop!

TwoSouls — Mon, 05 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT

The getaway from Koh Phangan was not that easy...

After a recovery day from the Full Moon Party, we were booked (I should say over-booked) on ferry to Koh Tao, a smaller island close by known for it's diving. Unfortunately we were turned away and had to spend one more night on Koh Phangan. The following day was much the same, but we showed up early and managed to secure a spot.

"Mr. Tim" getting off the boat in Ko Tao

Getting off the boat in Ko Tao

Koh Tao is a diving mecca with wall to wall dive resorts (some nice, some not so nice), and heaps of dive boats side-by-side near the jetty's. We had pre-booked at Black Tip Resort per suggestion and were met at the dock on arrival. (It sure is cool to have someone waiting for you with a sign!)

Black Tip was unfortunately 4km from town, isolating Jen from nightlife and shopping. The weather wasn't cooperating either, so swimming in the pool was out as well. For me, even though the dives I had booked were cancelled- I managed to talk the dive master into going out (just the two of us). We went out at 7am and had two pretty good dives of 60 minutes each. There really wasn't much reef to see, but the marine life was fantastic. We were chased around a few times by some large, very territorial triggerfish. The dive master (who goes by Boy) had warned me that this would happen and seemed convinced that it was just him that they were after. Funny, huh?

After just two nights on Koh Tao, we were prepared for a long day's travel to Bangkok. We took a taxi to the pier to meet a high-speed catamaran that was to transfer us to Chumphon, on the mainland. Just before we were allowed to board, a storm blew in quickly and with it...torrential downpour. Everyone was soaked just getting down the dock to the boat. Again, the boat seemed way overbooked and a few upset passengers were made to sit in the aisles or stand along the side. The passage was very nerve-racking as the overloaded/overcrowded cat listed from port to starboard in the heavy seas. Even 'I' was worried! Catamarans are usually quite stable! We did make it out ok, but there were many seasick backpackers that day. (and it was mayhem trying to get our bags from the bottom of the pile and onto the dock)

Tim gets crazy with his new hat from the Tribal people

Tim gets a rubdown at the market in Chiang Mai

Once we reached Chumphon, our connection to Bangkok was aboard a comfortable new dbl-decker bus. We arrived in the BIG CITY tired from the day of travel, but relieved it was over and we were safe. Our stay in Bangkok was just for one night and we caught a quick flight to Chiang Mai (in Northern Thailand) the next day. The plan for Chiang Mai - relax and stay in one spot for 5 days, shop in the markets, get massage, and swim in the hotel pool. Wow! Did I just type HOTEL? Yes, we finally decided to splurge and get a real room. It was soooo nice to have a cozy bed, hot shower, cable t.v., a bellhop, and of course - the pool!

We made a pitstop in the saloon - suprisingly good Mexican Food!

Many people recommended Chiang Mai to us- and rightfully so. What a great city! Jen and I shopped (together o.m.g.) at the night markets and the Sunday market. We tried the Thai massage and were delighted that it wasn't as painful as we thought it would be (if you don't mind being twisted into a pretzel). We were given the massages side-by-side so I got to see just how flexible Jen really is...didn't know she could bend like that!

At one point Jen pulled the "need-a-day-by-the-pool" card so I took the opportunity to get out for a tour to the Golden Triangle. The tour included a stop off at a really old Wat (13th century), a stop in a border town to Myanmar (Burma), views across the Mekong River to Laos and Myanmar, and visits to 2 Thai hill people villages.

Tim get's a photo op with some hill tribe children

Jen and the boys get into the boxing match

When I returned to the hotel, Jen surprised me with the gift of a beautiful hammock and tickets for 2 to the Thai boxing match at 8pm. What a day! God, I Love this woman!!

After 5 days we were pretty "shopped out" and relaxed...ready to fly back to Bangkok to explore some more. We went back down to the "backpackers strip" (the infamous Th Khao San) where we had stayed previously, and found another quality budget guesthouse. I call this the "strip" because it is chocked full of backpackers from all over. One end of this curvy road is loaded with bars and nightlife, the other with guesthouses (many with their own restaurant), internet cafes, street vendors, and travel offices. It's really the optimal place to be if you're a backpacker in Bangkok. We managed to connect again with our friends Sarah and Kevin from England who we'd met on Gili T. After sharing some cocktails and a tower of Sing-Ha over dinner, we bid our farewells once again. These two are a wonderful couple and inspire us a great deal! "Dreaming of Gili T!"

From here were are heading into Cambodia to see Angkor Wat, Siem Reap, and Phnom Penh. More on this in our next blog...
Our thoughts and love go out to you all!
Tim

The Beach

TwoSouls — Mon, 21 Apr 2008 00:00:00 GMT

So I got what I wanted... well almost. Since our arrival in Thailand on the 10th, we've found ourselves on the beach almost every day. But with the beaches there are tourists. And tourists can be pretty obnoxious in large quantities. Nevertheless, we are enjoying ourselves and are currently in a little pocket of heaven on the North end of Koh Phangan.

Phuket: Two words. Hotel Envy. Just like that dang Lonely Planet guide

warned us about. While every one and their brother in amidst a swanky two-week vacation, spending their mornings in the massage parlor, their lunch hour at the poolside bar and their nights eating fresh seafood at top-notch restaurants, we are trudging around with our humongous backpacks trying to find the cheapest hotel possible. Not fun. It's not that the budget hotels are total sh-t holes, but it just isn't as romantic as one might first imagine. Toilets that flush are always nice, but it's rare in the backpacker hotels. If you get two ratty towels and a roll of toilet paper, you are doing the victory dance. With all that said, we enjoyed our time there and did get to relax on the beach. Amen.

Ao Nang: A nice little spot outside of Krabi, this was a little more to our liking, as the pace was a bit slower and we seemed to have more in common with the average traveler here. Unfortunately, Tim was sick the first two days of our stay and we didn't get to explore Railay and the islands beyond. When he was revving at full speed again, we finally found our courage and ate at one of the local food carts. The whole experience was pretty classic - the "chef" was a pregnant woman propped up sideways on a motorbike over a pot full of steaming curry. To ensure it's perfect spiciness, she'd take numerous sips right from the pot before throwing it in a bowl and serving it up. Top notch food for under $2... and no belly aches.

Crowded Bus Ride #26: When we started on this trip, one of our intentions was to see the country by land - many, many trains, buses, taxis and vans. Again, it all sounds very romantic when flipping through a travel guide in the comfort of you own air-conditioned home... but not so much when you are stuck in the middle of it. We've certainly done our best to save money on transportation and be sensible about our options, and we are now pretty much over it. Get me on an plane... and I'd like some peanuts and a pillow please. We inevitabley have more long, uncomfortable journeys in front of us... and numerous stinky travelers will burst our personal space bubbles. Even I, as petite and slight-footed as I am (we are all laughing now, right?), have been known to wander into other people's personal bubble... oopsie.

The ferry trip from Krabi to Koh Phangan

Jen finds a nice spot to watch the sunset

Ko Phangan: Ah... this is the good island life. We picked a bungalow on the entirely opposite side of the island from the Infamous Full Moon Party. Our days are filled with hammock dwelling, dusty scooter rides around town, sunbathing, snorkeling and yummy grubbing at our host's beachfront restaurant. We managed to make our way to the Party last night, arriving just after 11:00 pm. Some party-goers had obviously gotten an early start... a shame really, but probably best for them to nap on the beach, even if face down in the sand under the feet of 6,000 people.

Tim and Jen share a drink at the Full Moon Party

Full Moon Party at Koh Phangan

We managed to stay pretty tame, despite the pandamoniom thumping around us. We connected with a couple of Canadian gals we'd met in Phuket and wandered up and down the beach for a few hours. When it was apparent that the vibe wasn't getting any better, we decided to make our way through "broken bottle /broken spirit" alley to our scooter (pictures don't do this mess any justice). We certainly appreciate a good party, but we seem to shy away from it a bit more than we used to. Out hearts are drifting towards home and we think often about the excitement and anxiety of settling back in amoungst our family and friends. We are plotting our departure as we continue to embrace each moment and enjoy the journey at hand. We also see the journey home as an equally important part of this entire process, so it deserves our attention as well.

After we returned from the party last night, I made my way down to the beach and swung from the treeswing... listening to the sound of the waves lapping against the shore... realizing how small our part is in this big world, yet knowing that our impact is considerable. I made a promise to myself as I stared up at the glowing moon - I promised to love myself no matter what. That has been pretty hard some days over the last few months, but it is the biggest step in my contribution back to this world...

Nothin' like a treeswing on the beach

Lots of love,
Jen

P.S. Thanks for letting me vent a bit...

Spoiled in Kuala Lumpur: a special treat for our weary feet

TwoSouls — Thu, 10 Apr 2008 00:00:00 GMT

We just spent a week in the great city of Kuala Lumpur, a melting pot of Malay, Chinese and Indian culture, religion and politics. We flew to KL on the 1st of the month with plans to meet up with an American family that has been living and working here for the past couple of years. We met Karen 4 months ago in LAX just an hour before we flew to Auckland - over a cocktail in the airport lounge, we briefly exchanged our stories and was offered a place to stay when we came through Malaysia. Tim and I were pleased, but both initially blew it off, fully understanding that we were strangers and that these types of offers usually go unexplored. Little did we know that Karen and Jack would come to follow our blog regularly, give us many helpful local tips via e-mail (and mid-meeting text messages!) and provide us with a REALLY NICE place to relax and explore during our time in Malaysia.

Majhid Tanah bus station

Between a lot of buses up and down the southern portion of Malaysia, we found ourselves in Melaka for a couple of days and in what was supposed to be a "resort" beach for an overnight stay before throwing in the towel and heading to KL early. Melaka was not the small and quaint port town that we were expecting, and while interesting, not a place we wanted to try to burn 3 - 4 days, so we asked around a bit and decided to head to Pengkalan Balak, a beach community about an hour northwest. We were initially excited about our beachfront chalet and managed a decent night sleep, but after we realized there wasn't any "resort", no one spoke English and it started pouring rain, we through a tandum temper tantrum and hitched a ride to the bus station to head back to KL.

We had one night to chill on our own before heading to Karen and Jack's on the 4th. We found a cool backpacker's in Chinatown and gravitated to the infamous Reggae bar across the street for dinner. Part of the mystery was trying to decide if your waitstaff was a girl or a boy - an added bonus to an already hip spot to hang (assuming you had a couple hundred ringgit to spend on cocktails, which we didn't). We wandered the night market and after breakfast with some friends we'd met in Gili T., we spent the day shooting around town, browsing the mall (indoor rollercoaster included), catching an IMAX movie and dodging the rain. We landed on K & J's doorstep about 8:30 pm dripping wet and probably a little cross-eyed.. still they welcomed us in.

Out for a Mexican meal with our wonderful KL hosts

Oh what a delight is was to have a place to refresh ourselves and get off the backpacker track for a while. We were also happily surprised that Jack was able to spend a lot of time with us over the next few days showing us the sights. We spent plenty of time at the house getting caught up on laundry and e-mail, organizing photos, taking care of left-over issues with "The Man" (Quantas and Telestial), shipping a few things

Mia loves the attention, even face stretches

home and just relaxing in general. We had a home cooked meal every night and access to western style food without a pricetag - I never thought we'd be so excited to see a box of Cheerios. We also had some wonderful pockets of time just exchanging stories and histories with Jack and Karen... they are not only very down to earth and generous people, but they are wonderful parents to their 3 kids and very well-traveled and active in their community here, as well as when they are at home in the Twin Cities. We REALLY enjoyed getting to know them better and can't thank them enough for opening their home and their hearts to us!

Below I have included some photos of our numerous outings while in KL - a big thanks to our Tour Director, Mr. Jack.

Saturday morning was the wet market with Karen and Jack - apparently it's called the wet market because it's where the animals meet their end and the floors tend to get a little slippery - too much information perhaps? Regardless, it was very interesting

and the best place to get produce. Then it was to KL Towers for a view of the entire city... After that, we went to the Butterfly Garden and to an Elephant Orphanage - I don't have the name of the reserve with me, but it was impressive. The following day we took a rest, as I was suffering from a low-level sinus infection and sore throat.

1st elephant ride- Kuala Gandah, Malaysia

On our last full day in KL, Jack took us along on his weekly visit to the Chin refugee kids - from Borneo. He and some friends bring snacks and spend a couple hours with the children teaching them English. What a unique and wonderful experience it was to spend a little time with these children, who are basically waiting to be assigned a home in the US. I could of scooped them all up in my arms and taken them home with us, but obviously that is not the reality of the situation. Luckily, these kids have family, but they are living in limbo for now and the weekly visits they have with Jack and the others seem to mean a great deal.

I am short on time trying to wrap this up, but our time with Karen and Jack in KL was a highlight and something we will carry in our hearts for years to come. Thank you, thank you, thank you and we promised we'd continue to "pay it forward".

We are a few days into our time in Phuket, Thailand and will write more about that soon. Kisses from a milion miles away. We love you and miss you!

Jen and Tim

Borobudor and Beyond: Our final days in Indo

TwoSouls — Mon, 07 Apr 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Greetings. We are TRYING to get caught up on the blog scene, so I will attempt to fill you in on our experience at Borobudor in Java and the few days that followed.

We had the honor of spending a few hours roaming around Borobudor, the largest Buddhist temple in the world. Thankfully, we decided to chip in for a local guide and it was well worth it - we learned about the discovery and restoration of the temple, as well as the stories that are depicted through the detailed carvings on each level and what the traditional Buddha positions mean. It was fascinating, and despite the extremely warm weather, we wished we could have lingered for a while (one of the the downsides of a tour). If you are interested in the history of Borobudor, I have provided a link with some details below... it's quite fascinating.

http://www.pbs.org/treasuresoftheworld/a_nav/boro_nav/main_borofrm.html

I have to admit that it's always been a little tough for me to grasp the true historical value of such sites... I was often in la-la-land during my history classes in highschool and college and I don't often find myself researching old events or stopping into museums. But this was a special place. The workmanship was palpable and the spiritual vibrations were strong. I separated myself from the group many times to stop and breathe in deeply... to reflect on the mindset of those who build the structure... to give thanks and acknowledge the greatness and mystery around me... it helps me embrace humility.

I'm having some difficulty expressing my thoughts on the experience, as it is not something that is easily described in words. So I will include a few of my favorite photos that helped capture the experience. I hope you enjoy.

We enjoyed the rest of our stay in Yogyakarta, and then hopped on a bus to the southern coast of Java to a place called Pangandaran. Even though you couldn't initially see much damage, this was one of the cities hit by the tsunami in 2006. We were lucky enough to hear about it from Lee, one of the survirors that chose to stay in the city afterward - she still has nightmares from time to time, but says her decision to stay and rebuild her home and business was the right thing to do. Pangandaran was quaint and the water warm. We spent some time playing in the surf together, took a walk in the near by National Park, ate some delicious hand-picked seafood and relaxed under the guidance of a local masseuse. It was a relaxing last stop before heading out of Indonesia. After an overnight bus to Jakarta and a few more transfers, we flew to Malaysia and said hello to our second country in Asia.

Monkeys like Guinness too!

We hope to return to Indonesia soon - one month is not enough to see all that these islands have to offer and we left many stones unturned. We made many, many friends here and even offered to sponsor our masseuse from Pandangaran if he would like to come to the US to teach his trade and save money to build a home for his family. We would feel honored if we had the opportunity to host any of the people we've met on our journey and certainly feel blessed for those that have shared so much with us.

So we keep moving along...
Jen

Lombok to Java: Patience is a virtue

TwoSouls — Fri, 28 Mar 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Our island magic is now just a memory and we are abruptly thrown back into the madness of the mainland. A little under the weather (both physically and spiritually), we took a ferry to Lombok and were greeted by a plethera of touts trying to pry the money from our wallets. They are friendly enough, but very sly... if they even touch your backpack, they demand a small donation. We managed to brush them off, only to step into another group of them while we waited for the bus to our destination.

The "parking lot" at the mall in Mataram

Sengiggi is certainly nothing to write home about. Outside of some entertaining bartering during our beach front breakfast and a very friendly local that helped us get to the airport, it was really just a place to nurse Tim back to health and rest of weary heads. We made our way to Mataram the next day in hopes of catching a flight to Java, but after loitering around the ticket window for a couple hours, it was clear that we were stuck in Lombok for one more night. Mataram felt a bit like the Twilight Zone, perhaps only compared to the backpacker friendly Gili T... we ventured out to find a bite for dinner and found ourselves lost in a web of commercial buildings, army barracks, dingy back alley flats and rustic food carts on every corner. No one spoke more than one or two words of English and the locals seemed to find us rather odd. They either ignored us, tried to run us down with their motorbike (I exaggerate here a little) or sent their children running to the streets to wave and practice their English - "good morning" they all say, no matter what time of day it is. We managed to find the "mall" and chowed down on McDonalds before heading back to the hotel for another so-so night of sleep. Any town that forces you to eat at McDonalds is not one that we will see again.

The flight to Surabaya in Java was delayed, the airport was bland and we were both annoyed and ready to leave Lombok. Unfortunately, Surabaya was more of the same. The second biggest city in Java, it was hustle and bustle with no real place to comfortably drop our bags. We hopped on a bus to the transit station, ran to the (leaky) city bus in the middle of a heavy thunderstorm and arrived to the hotel drenched from head to toe. The hotel was empty, over-priced and shared a wall with the night club around the corner... you can tell how happy Jen was, no? We put in our ear plugs, got a little shut eye and found our way to Mt. Bromo the next day.

Views from our room in Cemoro Leweng

Ahh, happiness again in Cemoro Lewang, a little town on the rim of Mt. Bromo, one of Java's most impressive volcanoes. The bus ride up the steep and winding hill was, well... something we continue to laugh about. To save money, we took a public mini-bus and found that what appeared to be a 12-seater was slowly, but surely filled with 22 people... and there may have been one or two dudes riding on the roof as well. Classic. We arrived at Cafe Lava with battered knees, but in good spirits. After a well-deserved night of rest, we skipped the recommended sunrise walk to the summit of Mt. Bromo and opted for a late breakfast and a stroll along the outer rim. That afternoon, Tim was caught in a serious storm and flash flood - I was in the middle of a nap and awoke to the crack of thunder, so it was a bit of a worry session for me (Tim was fine outside of some seriously wet boots). It was this storm that delayed our trip down the hill the next day... the bus couldn't get more than a few miles our of town due to the landslides, so we put our backpacks on and walked down the hill, which ended up being a really nice way to see the landscape.

The 11 hour bus ride from Mt. Bromo to Solo

After the final decent down the hill on the bus, we transferred to a van with 4 folks from Spain and made the 9 hour trip to Solo... a 12 hour day of travel total. We've found that travel days are some of the toughest times for us. One or the other of us is usually hot, tired, bloated, cramped, smelly or all of the above. It's also a crux which demands decision making - in a quick and confident fashion as to avoid the dozens of transportation and hotel operators ready to intercept us as we de-board the train, bus, boat, etc. We are not particulary good at decision making, so our relationship has been tested in these situations time and again...

Hand painting the batiks

Tim and the becak driver in Solo

Solo is a cute town in Central Java and we decided to spend a couple of days here to accomplish a few errands - you have no idea how bad it can get after wearing the same few outfits for 3 weeks in this humidity! Laundry, another package sent home and plenty of walking through back alleys that have much more to offer than one would think. I took a half day batik course while Tim worked away on the computer. We had good food and our hosts at the Istaya Guaya Hotel were wonderful. We boarded the local train on Thursday and headed to Yogjakarta, the cultural capital of Java.

Since Tim is waiting for me to finish up and we are having little luck uploading photos from here, I will say goodbye for now. We have a 7 hour journey to Pandangaran tomorrow where we will relax on the beach for a couple days before heading to Jakarta and then into Malaysia. Once we get to Kuala Lumpur, I will share our photos from our visit to Borobudor today - it is a blog topic of it's own, so maybe Tim will volunteer (despite the time it takes him to blog, he gets more excited about it every time).

A belated Happy Easter to you and warm thoughts from a far...

Selamat Malam,
Jen

Gili Trawangan: Tim's Version

TwoSouls — Wed, 26 Mar 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Forward with pictures first...

Sunrise at Gili T.

Hot surfer hubby in Gili T.

Jen goes for a surf, but just ends up sunning herself

Tim and Jen get cozy at the Reggae Bar

A cool looking boat off the shore of Gili T.

Coconut Dreams - our cottage for 8 days in Gili T.

Tim goes for a deep dive off Gili T.

Post-dive happiness in the waters of Gili T.

Tim, Joe, Emily, Jen, Sarah and Kevin... good times!

I started this blog by just showing photos, which I think I'll leave in place and add even more. We have so many pix of this gorgeous little island, I'd rather see them in a blog than in the storage bin.

Really...Jen did a wonderful blog on Gili Trawangan already, but I feel it's necessary to share my side as well.

Despite the fact that Jen and I got along marvelously during our stay here, we spent alot of time apart doing our own things. (Maybe this is why we got along so well...lol) I regularly took off to go scuba diving or snorkeling and hang out with the locals. Jen was quite happy just relaxing, walking, reading, shopping, and exploring the island.

From the beginning-

The boat we took from Bali to Gili T was a rustic but well maintained little ferry operated by Perama. The journey took about 4 hours but was very enjoyable. We spotted dolphins and flying fish en route, and the views back toward Bali were stunning.

Rounding Gili Trawangan the jetty and main strip came into view, looking like something right out of National Geographic. The color of the water was a brilliant clear turquoise, colorful fishing boats and dive boats lined up along the shore, horse-drawn carts and locals selling their wares were moving about on the street. It was (is) perfect!

Once ashore, we scurried off in small groups to try and find the best and cheapest place to stay before the next guy...and lucky for us, a guy named Jackson came along and led us to Sama Sama restaurant and bungaloos- very close to the center of town. Ironically, this is also the reggae bar on the island and comes with a live band (the only band on Gili). I knew I was home!

We were shown around back and down an alleyway to Coconut Dream, a sister bungaloo that was built just last year. Very posh on our backpackers scale and with air-con a reasonable Rp 150,000. We'll take it!

By the time we settled in, it was dark. Really craving a swim, we walked up the main road about 10 minutes and found a beach with a spotlight. Once in the water, which is the perfect temp, we embraced and decided that 4 days would not be enough. Let's stay a week or more. Brilliant!

To be continued.....

We are catching a train in an hour...gotta pack!

Peace and Love!
Tim

Two Tickets to Paradise

TwoSouls — Fri, 14 Mar 2008 00:00:00 GMT

We are digging out toes into the sands of Gili Trawangan, a small island off the coast of Lombok (Indonesia). This place has by far exceeded our expections and landed on the top of our "Holy Shit, This is Amazing" List. You'll have to excuse my language, as I've been hanging around backpackers for over 3 months now. Oh, and there are no police on this island, so there is a sense of freedom that slightly outweighs my desire to be politically correct. Isn't it marvelous?

Jen finds an old boat on her walk around the island

So what is it that qualifies this place as Paradise? It seems it would be a magical blend of ingrediants that can only come together under special circumstances. For instance, I'm sure Gili T. would be near perfection without considering our fellow travellers, but because the stars lined up just right, we managed to find this place alongside a group of very, very cool people. They know who they are, and fortunately for us, they find us to be quite brilliant as well. Not brilliant like Einstein, but like... well, like London. Whatever the case, it's quite nice being seen as briliant and I might just have to incorporate the word into my daily jargon.

Paradise... ingrediants include:

1. Water. On all sides if possible. You surf there. Snorkeling is best over there. Swim just across from the guy that sells the woven bracelets. Diving is just a boat ride away. And it sparkles, no matter where you stand. A brilliant blue with hints of the reef below. A jellyfish sting isn't particularly fun, but the waters are sheltered and warm with a whole other world to discover just below.

Jen and the boys at Rudy's - crazy tiger!

2. Locals. These guys are textbook friendly and the bartering can be a whole experience in itself. Full of smiles, history and good recommendations, they are intoxicating. And they don't at all seem the type to steal your sunglasses while you take a swim. According to Rafael, there isn't much theft here because any such incident would be reported to their president and they would be promptly asked to leave the island. Maybe he'd like to run for president of the USA?
3. Nightlife. The restaurants and bars have agreed to take turns hosting a late night party a few times a week. We happened upon the dual-DJ party at the Irish pub earlier this week and only returned to our room once to get more storage for photos and again after watching the sunrise over a chain of volcanoes in Lombok. We drank and danced and laughed and met fellow partiers from across Europe and beyond. We saw at least 3 people fall off the bar and boogied down as our friend Joe took a go at the turntable... and to think that I almost didn't rally for this one. Tonight, the party moves to Rudy's, known for it's killer pizza and mushroom shakes. Will I be able to pull another all-nighter? Probably not, but one can try.
4. Cheap digs. We did not go for the $6 rooms, cuz for less than twice that, our room is generous for the price, with air con, a patio and hammock, a table for letter writing and a king size fanned lounge bed. We shoo away mosquitos in our outdoor shower, but it's absolutely a perfect place to lay our heads after a long day of doing close to nothing. And breakfast is included with oh so strong Bali coffee. Yes, paradise. And for those that want to really do it up, there are 5 star accommodations up and down the main drag for $45 - $100 US a night... something for everyone.
5. Yummy food. It's cheap, well-cooked and available until after midnight. They have huts set up right on the beach with lounge pillows and romantic lighting - just the two of us or smoosh in with friends, they are lovely. You can get a banana split for $1.80 and there are no lack of funny waiters... we've found the shorter the better for some reason. And just in case we need a break from the curry and fried noodles, we've got a can of pringles, a pack of oreos and 4 large bottles of water in our room. Lots of cold water for sale, so we are careful to hydrate in the humid heat.
6. Sun. Up in the sky with a place to escape it if necessary - a hut, a fresh water pool in the fancy hotels, floating under the pier a few feet off the beach, swinging in a hammock, in your air conditioned room. And cold beer helps too... friends, meet Bingtang. Bingtang, meet friends.
7. Shopping. Enough shopping to pass the heat of the day, but not so much that it's distracting. Cheap sarongs, surf shorts, hand-made art and jewelry.

Is this paradise or what?

8. Quiet. There are no motorbikes here like the mainland. You can walk, rent a bicycle or hire a horsedrawn thinga-ma-gig. The air and sea are clean, except for your occasional horse pooh and empty beer bottle. You can easily escape the bartering and drinking scene by walking in any direction... or simply lounging in front of your room. You can also pick from shelves of movies to watch in the comfort of your own cozy hut on the beach. While Tim often likes to be in the middle of the party, I sometimes prefer to listen to it's echos from afar... we can both have our way and our comfort here. And watching the sunrise on the beach - nothing but the sound of the waves and the jingle of the boat lines. Priceless.

The all-nighter comes to a close...

9. No bonehead tourists. This place is just a tad off the track, and the tourists, therefore, are perfectly laid back, friendly and not in a hurry to go anywhere. I wouldn't describe it as hedonistic, but perhaps in the way that you are highly encouraged to do whatever it is you please. If you love sun and surf, you hit the beach. If you want to explore the reef, take an intro dive course and have a gander down below. If you are trying to escape the job, the divorce, the family obligations or stress of the city, grab a book and chill by yourself in your room or by the pool. And when you are feeling satiated with whatever it is you seek, you shower, shave, prop a flower behind your ear and wander the strip for a meal at dusk. There is a soft buzz in the air and everyone is happy to see you. One Love.
10. My best friend. I get to experience this magical place with my best friend Tim. How frigging cool is that? We gush over each other to friends we've met or simply gaze into each other's eyes before sleepy time. We wake up intertwinded and excited for a new day of exploration together. Love feels stronger here and closer to our fingertips with a multitude of reminders around us. And I am hopeful that I will be able to feel this long after we've left.

Hanging with our friends at Sama Sama in Gili T.

Now don't you all rush off at once to find the next boat to Gili T... there are pockets of paradise in our own backyards. I would certainly recommend a trip to Indonesia, if not just to stand at the shore with your toes dug in the sand. Dyann - you would love this place... and if we call you from Rudy's at 3 o-clock in the morning, it will be noon in Santa cruz and you will know exactly how we are feeling - blessed to be right here, but missing you all Very, Very Much.

Peace,
Jen

A tree painted rasta colors - we can't resist.

Into Indo... Happy Nyepi!

TwoSouls — Mon, 10 Mar 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Hello friends and family...

Tim and I have been in Ubud (Bali) for 2 days and are LOVING the beauty and kindness this country has to offer. I am having difficulties uploading photos, so I can only offer a few - when I get to the next reliable connection, I promise to share more.

Breakfast on the beach in Seminyak

We arrived in Denpasar on Wednesday, just in time to celebrate Bali's New Year celebration. We didn't know that this coincided with our travel here, so we felt lucky to be a part of it. Our hired driver, Sukarena, picked us up at the airport and told us all about the history and rules related to the Hindu celebration. The following day, Sukarena drove us to a beautiful temple on the coast. We laughed at the monkeys and enjoyed watching people prepare for the holiday. That night, there were ceremonies and parades in the streets across all of Bali to celebrate thisand on Nyepi, ALL of Bali is closed down. They put a tarp up across the entrance to our hotel and we were not allowed to go anywhere. The hotels still served food and offered electricty (gotta cater to the tourists), but the locals stayed at home and did not cook, work, or turn on any lights. It was a nice break from the hustle of the tourist circuit in Kuta.

Tim and our driver, Sukarena in Seminyak

On Friday, Sukarena gave us a ride to North Bali with his family and we saw more beautiful countryside, temples and monkeys... the monkeys are the only "pickpockets" we've seen in Bali - they will steal your hat or purse if you aren't careful! We Stayed in Lovina that night and got up very early to take a boat our to see the dolphins. We thought this might be a bit of a hoax, but we saw A LOT of dolphins. I was willing one to jump over the stern of the boat, but they didn't get close enough to touch. After a couple hour drive south, Sukarena dropped us off in Ubud and we said our goodbyes. Ubud is known as the artist community in Bali and I tell you, it's been difficult to refrain from shopping. I very much like Asian art, so this place is right up my alley. We found a great little reggae bar last night and managed to coax Tim onto the dance floor (photos to come soon). We also found a room for $6 a night, so we are happy to see our dollars going a little farther. we've enjoyed Ubud very much.

Tomorrow, we take a bus to the coast and then a ferry over to The Gili Islands. The plan is to kick it on the beach for a few days - perhaps do some snorkeling or diving, but not a whole lot more than that. After the islands, we will go to the mainland in Lombok and try to find some hiking. After Lombok, we will go to Java and Sumatra before heading up to Malaysia, so 4 islands in one month... phew.

We will report back after our island stay. We miss you (as always) and a very happy Daylight Savings Time to you all! We are now 15 hours ahead of you, so please don't be mad if we accidentally call you at 2:30 in the morning!

Love, love, love,
Jen

Tim and Jen at the coast

The Great Barrier Reef and Beyond: Goodbye to Oz

TwoSouls — Wed, 05 Mar 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Wow, it's HOT here! Here is Airlie Beach, Australia- and even though it spits rain every now-and-again, it's not enough to cool things off.

We have successfully recovered from the long bus ride and are aboard a 105' sailing mega-yacht (Annaconda III) cruising out toward the Whitsunday Islands and beyond (Great Barrier Reef).

Tim prepares for his night dive off the Barrier Reef

The main purpose of this venture is scuba diving on the reef and relaxing aboard this monster-of-a sailboat. Sounds good, huh? Well almost...the seas got rough (3+ meter swells), all the crew smoke ciggys like chimneys, belowdecks is in a state of disrepair, and the food is less than desirable. People were seasick and wrenching over the rails. The weather was so uncooperative that we were only allowed one dive on the Great Barrier Reef (and it was a night dive only for certified divers- lucky I'm certified!). Five of us splashed into the water that night with two dive instructors leading the way. One guy immediately freaked out from the combination of darkness and heavy swell and had to be hauled back to the boat. That left a perfect two-and-two as we descended to about 18 meters amid huge towers of coral teaming with sealife. It was fabulous and I was awestruck as our underwater lites spotlighted huge turtles, moray eels, schools of fish, and things I've only seen on Jacque Cousteau. At one point a large turtle swam straight toward us as if to say hello and welcome to my reef. AWESOME!!! I still have to develop my underwater pictures, but am sure I got some sood ones.

Preparing ourselves for a rough ride away from the reef

Aside from that dive and some snorkeling in the shelter of the Whitsundays, the weather (and the food/crew) was a real drag for a majority of the passengers. Jen and I actually enjoyed the rough seas and stayed above decks to watch the bow plow through the swell. The occasional large wave would hit the side and spray would wash all the way over the stern, soaking everyone brave enough to be topside.

Happy Birthday to Jen - I can't believe I'm 33

Back in Airlie Beach on the 3rd, Jen's Birthday! We went to check in to the YHA and found that their computers had gone down and our reservation was lost. The friendly staff made good by upgrading us to a suite with all the extras. Funny how things work out! I promptly ran across the street to a bakery and purchased a slice of carrot cake, a slice of chocolate cake, and a slice of a vanilla custard cake (figuring I couldn't go wrong with all the choices). No candles but a birthday kiss and hug along with the traditional song did the trick. The only thing I couldn't help with was the feeling of being homesick. E for effort!

The following day we flew to Brisbane, catching a train into town from the airport to meet Beni- our couchsurfing host for the night. Beni was a great host and had been to the States when he was young. He brought out a journal his parents made him write while travelling. Besides Yosemite, San Fran, Disneyland, and many of the normal tourist hotspots- he'd even been to the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk. It's indeed a small world, Beni.

On March 5 we attempted to board a flight bound for Denpasar, Bali, Indonesia and were refused due to lack of onward flight booking. We tried to get by with showing proof of funds and itenerary but to no avail.....and ended up running over to the Quantas desk and paying full price for a refundable ticket out of Indonesia. OUCH! Refundable minus $200+ for booking fees, etc. Oh, well...Bali, here we come!

Views of Sydney on our flight out of Australia

Oh yeah!...Did I say we miss you guys!
Love, Tim

Funny how we find ourselves lingering in places that feel like home...

TwoSouls — Fri, 29 Feb 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Let's just get my first thought our of the way... make us all feel better.

No joke... we really do.

I'm not sure where Tim left off, but I think it was somewhere in the midst of our stay in Noosa. We ended up staying there almost a week. It had a great vibe, the weather was nice, our Couchsurfing (CS) hosts were FANTASTIC and it reminded us of Santa Cruz a bit - a funky harbour town that faces North when it should really face East. We connected with Ross (our fourth CS host) on Saturday and immediately jumped on a bus to the famous Eumundi market. It was HUGE... and almost 100 degrees out, so we ended up literally shopping til we dropped. Luckily we dropped ourselves into a cool little pub/bistro and enjoyed sharing a couple of jugs while "Uncle Bob's Jug Band" played a few tunes. It was classic and silly and air-conditioned, so we were all smiles. While we were able to escape Eumundi without breaking the bank, I did manage to get an early birthday gift from Tim - a beautiful amber ring, something I'd been looking for for a while, so it was a very nice surprise.

Another new friend for Jen... we named her Brittany

Awesome local band at Joe's wateringhole in Eumundi

Noosa Main Beach... very cool clouds

After a well-deserved swim back in Noosa, we enjoyed a BBQ with Ross and two other couchsurfers he was hosting at the time. We swizzled back a bew beers, exchanged stories about the ups and downs of travel and life in general and had quite a few laughs. Ross is a really wonderful person and we had a great time with him over the next few days. We were sad to leave, but we decided to jump on the Greyhound and head to Hervey Bay for an overnight stay. Hervey Bay is the jumping off point for the very popular Frasier Island tours, but we took the advice of some locals and decided to skip it. We basically lounged by the pool most of the day and took the opportunity to find some reprieve.

Hot sun and a cold beer... Jen's in heaven!

Sharing beers with our CS host Ross

It was an all-night bus ride to Airlie Beach - sounds like a great way to save $$ on a night's accommodation, right? Well, yes, nice to save a few bucks, but those buses are not too comfy for tall folks like ourselves. The Greyhound truly is a great way to see Australia, but it makes for a grouchy Jen Jen from time to time. We wandered around Airlie Beach and I met a friend this morning - this little bugger was getting cheeky with me in the shower! We will wander again today and then set sail for a three 3 night trip to the outer Great Barrier Reef... we are both VERY excited and the weather looks to be in our favor (although it could change drastically by the time I finish this blog). So we will be off-line until next week... but we promise to return with some more great photos - Tim bought an underwater camera, so it should be a very memorable experience.

Jen looks a little haggard after a 12+ hour bus ride

Jen's shower mate... I named him Rufus

We love you very much...
Jen

Welcome To Oz

TwoSouls — Thu, 21 Feb 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Good Day from Down Under!

Views of the Opera House across the bay

We are now in the land of OZ, as tthe locals call it. To the rest of the world, it's Australia (and not as barren or lacking mountains like you might think). Many of you folks out there are probably wondering if we have reached the middle-of-nowhere yet... well, we still haven't managed to find it (Middle Earth in NZ was pretty close). Though... our track seems somewhat endless, and occasionally we've felt we needed to pick up the pace. Fortunately right now we have found a place to settle in for a few days and enjoy the weather and our surroundings. That place is Noosa and Sunshine Beach, in Queensland on the East Coast of Australia.

Our flight from Christchurch to Sydney

We left New Zealand early on the 12th from Christchurch and arrived in Sydney, still well before noon. After a phone call and a short wait, we were picked up by a Russell - who we had met a couple of weeks prior in Queenstown, NZ. Russell was very welcoming and offered up his place in Lane Cove for us as a Sydney base, as-well-as give us a grand tour. We went out for Thai food in the Glebe District on Wednesday - Excellent! Thursday, Jen and I caught a bus into town and split for half-a-day to see sights of our own interests.

Sydney Opera House

Jen headed to the Opera House and the Botanical Gardens while I crossed the bridge to check out the Maritime Museum and a sweet replica of the Endeaver (Capt. James Cook's boat). We met in the afternoon at the Queen Elizabeth Building, purchased 'hop-on hop-off' Greyhound tickets North as far as Airlie Beach, and then bussed back to Russel's.

A girl plays the sax outside Queen Victoria Building

Friday was great despite the lingering percipitation. Russell took the day off and drove us up into the Blue Mountains outside Sydney. There were sheer cliffs, gorgeous waterfalls, and views of a region I vaguely remember seeing in National Geographic.

Popping a squat after a walk around downtown Sydney

Blue Mountains with Russell

Saturday we said goodbye to Russell and caught an overnight Greyhound to Byron Bay.We had an hour-or-so in Byron Bay before being whisked away by Jim's Alternative Tours and taken to Nimbin some 2 hours away. The tour was fantastic with loud music, a narration by our comical driver, and a 40 minute stop-off at a pub for refreshments.

View of a waterfall in the Blue Mountains

A very memorable tour and one we'd recommend to all

The "Hippie" town of Nimbin is like something right out of the late '60's.....a town that sprouted up from commune type living. All sorts of colorful art and homegrown products filled the shops and cafe's. It was a busy place with an open market, live music, and lots of curious visitors walking around. That night we stayed close to Nimbin at the YHA Rox hostel in order to get the "proper" amount of time needed for the local experience.

The strip in Nimbin... back to the seventies

Unfortunately, our stay here was short, so not enough relaxing in Byron Bay

The next day we continued the tour and stopped off at an 30 acre place owned by a very "hippie" expat from New York who had dodged the draft for Vietnam and never returned home. It was loads of fun talking politics with this guy.....what a riot!

Inside Art's Factory Lodge - very cool hostel

Back in Byron Bay we checked in at Art's Factory Lodge and managed to find a tentsite in this filled-to-the-brim hostel. All of the cabins, teepees, yurts, and bunkhouses were full- plus the camping area had probably 50-60 tents in it! Totally like a festi! Entertainment for the night was a mixture of wild turkeys and rats scratching around the camping area, and a beautiful 6 foot white and yellow python in the kitchen. I'm surprised Jen was able to sleep that night! ...a short Greyhound trip to Brisbane the next morning...where we were met by Anne- a contact and friend from couchsurfing.com. We had an enjoyable stay with Anne one night and she was kind enough to give us a lift to the bus the next day. Thanks Anne!

Art's Factory Lodge campsite... kinda like a festy

Tim's friend the Python in Byron Bay...

Our next stop was Noosa, where we are now. Couchsurfing again...with a wonderful couple Andrew and Sabina. These two are very active and close to us in age so we've hit-it-off really well. They have a strikingly modern house that they recently remodeled. Both of them have travelled alot and also spent time in California...Lots to talk about!
This morning, Jen and I went for a long walk from their place in Sunshine Beach around the coast (3 hrs) and into Noosa Town. The sky was finally clear of clouds and boy was it hot and humid! Around the point, the good-sized waves were crowded with surfers. In a Eucalyptus tree we saw a sleeping Koala. And once we reached town, the beach was packed with people. I guess that's what happens when it's been rainy for 3 months.
Never-the-less...We found space, shared a 7-11 slurpee, and went for a much needed swim in the Tasman Sea.
We have now shortened our Australia leg substancially and will be flying to Bali on March 5. I have a feeling our internet access might be limited in Indo, but we will do our best to keep you all appraised to the haps.
Thanks so much for keeping us in your thoughts and prayers! So many of you are here with us in spirit. Please give us some feedback via emails to this blogsite or our hullacoasters@hotmail if you can.....we'd like to know who is following us!
Thank you and much love!!!
tim

Goodbye Kiwi land - a look back...

TwoSouls — Tue, 12 Feb 2008 00:00:00 GMT

The angel is protecting us... so need not worry about us!

Hello family and friends... we can't believe it's already been 2 months on the road, but we feel lucky to have jam packed many memorable times into those 2 months and look forward to our upcoming adventures in Australia. Our last few days in New Zealand were a bit anti-climatic, but we did manage to wrap up some of our business and lighten our load for the trip to Sydney. We were lucky enough to stay with a friend we met up in Takaka and it was really helpful to have a "base" to get organized - big thanks to Braden and his family for being so generous and kind! Below are a couple of thoughts we put together on our time in New Zealand... we managed to agree on most of it, so I guess we are pretty good travel companions!

Top 3 Spots - North Island:
1. Mt. Mauganui
2. Wellington
3. Rotorua

Top 3 Spots - South Island:
1. Takaka
2. Queenstown
3. Wanaka

Top 10 Kiwi Experiences (in order of occurance):
1. Alabar Ranch
2. Mitai - Maori Huka
3. Sailing on Lake Taupo
4. Mapua Holiday Park Annual concert
5. Able Tasman Track
6. Global Village Backpackers
7. Franz Joseph Glacier
8. Milford Sound Track
9. Queenstown Gondola (hike, views, lounging with Noel)
10. Tim - Wai-o-tapu Geothermal
Jen - Secondhand bookstores

Why New Zealand is cool:
- lots of free overnight camping
- lots of free public toilets
- fantastic scenery!
- short hops between cities
- flat whites (espresso beverage)
- generous locals
- lots of i-sites (information)
- cool movie theaters
- Kathmandu 50% sale

Why we wouldn't move here:
- sandflies
- lack of good dark beer
- lots of rain
- overpriced outdoor gear
- most towns close up at 5 pm
- increasing theft and violence
- too far from YOU!

We'll visit with you again in Oz!

Oh, and thanks for the care-packages... we love you!

Care packages - you love us, you really love us!

Newsflash: Trampers now back on pavement

TwoSouls — Wed, 06 Feb 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Hanging up our boots...

Holy hotdogs... it's been over 2 weeks since our last blog! We've been on the trail and off the trail and then back on and now we find ourselves in Christchurch, preparing ourselves for our Feb. 12th flight to Sydney, Australia. It is with sadness and relief that we clean Lucy up, pack up our bags (harder than one would think) and enjoy our last few days in New Zealand. I'll try to catch you up a bit on our latest adventures.

Stoney, Jen and Tim enjoy a beer together at the Cardrona Motel

Another beautiful day!

After staying a few days in Wanaka, we drove south to Queenstown for a quick overnight stay before starting the Milford Track. We gave our friend Stoney (we met in Greymouth) a ride with us and enjoyed crossing paths a few times before we left for Te Anu and the start of the track. We didn't feel that we got to see enough in Queenstown, so we decided to change our route a bit and head back there after the tramps and spend a few more days there... we just needed to be careful not to spend all our money on the plethera of adventure options, including bungy, sky diving, canyon swing, paragliding and heli-biking.

After some laughter-filled goodbyes, we drove to Te Anu and found ourselves a Holiday

Jen rests on the last mile marker on the Milford Track

park to spend the night and prepare for the 4 day tramp into Milford Sound. I don't to see Tim much more excited than I do when he's preparing for a backpacking trip - he has a great system and I feel very safe with him on the trail, as I know he's pretty much thought of everything (outside my need for chocolate)! We took a ferry to the start of the track and had an easy first day - just an hour and a half to the first hut. We got to know our fellow trampers and relaxed that evening after heading down to the swimming hole for some COLD water fun. The next day was a beautiful hike and we plopped down int he hut around 2 pm, only to decide to keep trekking to the top of the pass so we could see it in the sunshine - a 17 mile hike altogether! But it was worth it and we got some great photos.

Taking a break to enjoy the views

Tim looks at the statue at the pass

Day 3 was tough, as we had to ascend to the pass again and then head down for many hours - again, the views were breathtaking and we really enjoyed ourselves. Tim's favorite point was his venture behind Sutherland Falls - the tallest waterfall in NZ... I didn't catch a very good photo, but I think he'll remember it for a long time to come. Day 4 was fairly flat and we arrived in Sandfly point (aptly named) just in time to have a snack and catch the ferry back to Milford Sound. We stayed the night in the lodge and got up early to experience the Sounds by kayak. I was hesitant to spend the money, but it was well-worth it - the guides were awesome and we had quite an adventure when two of the other kayaks in the group (4 total plus 2 guides) capsized... a bit of a windy day, but everyone managed to get back to shore safely and we laughed all the way back to our car on the bus.

Who's in charge of this here kayak?

Our last morning on the trail at Kepler

We had another night in Te Anu to prepare for Kepler Track. I decided I was too tired to do the whole trail, so Tim prepared for his departure and I booked myself into a nice en-suite unit in a near by hostel. Tim left about noon on Wednesday and we met up again at the last hut on the trail on Friday afternoon about 5 pm... he had a really good time on the trail, although it sounds like it was pretty tough. He ran into our friend Sepp and hiked in with him and Andrea, a really nice German gal. I lounged around town at the lake and the park and did a lot of reading and walking around... it was a perfect break for both of us and we were very excited to see each other on the trail those few days later. it rained ALL DAY on Friday, so we were both drenched when we arrived - it felt to warm our bones by the fire and we felt relaxed as we spent out last night together on the trails of the Fiorlands. We hiked out, hitched a ride back to Te Anu, ran a few errands, picked up a young couple that needed a ride and headed back to Queenstown to relax.

SLOW DOWN... and enjoy the view

A rose garden on the mini golf course? Sweet!

Queenstown doesn't look that specatcular from the ground... it's a party town and it can be a little busy and unkempt. But we enjoyed wandering around town and spending some time with new friends. I finally got Tim to play minigolf (no wonder he doesn't much like it) and we hiked up to the gondola and spent the evening in the Skyline Lounge. Words can't describe the views from up there, and we had the pleasure of getting to know the musician that plays there from time to time... he's a sailor, a musician and a poet, so he touched both of our hearts and we hope to keep in touch with him. We spent a little more time in town before leaving on Monday evening - making our way to the East Coast for the first time. We arrived in Christchurch on Tuesday and cozied ourselves into the van for ONE LAST NIGHT. Today, we made breakfast at the beach and cleaned up Lucy. We are staying at the point Break Backpackers in New Brighton (outside of Christchurch) and we connect with a local friend that we met in Takaka... after a few days at his place and another few days seeing the sights here, we will head to Sydney.

A bottle of Jacob's Creek in the Skyline Lounge

Ah... doesn't seem like we've gone two months, but I have certainly been homesick and I can't tell you how much we think of you guys. I'll see a killer bike trail and I'll say "Oh man, Brian (Lowe) would love that" or we'll pick up a couple shells on the beach and think about our newphews, Anthony and Alex. it goes without saying that I think of my mom and sister all the time, and I definitely feel my Dad watching over us... thank you again for all your e-mails, phone calls and shouts of support. We are glad you are enjoying the blog and we'll try to get back on-line soon.

Miss you!
Jen

West Coast New Zealand...

TwoSouls — Mon, 21 Jan 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Seems like forever since it was my turn to blog. Thanks so much for all the e-mail from you back at home in response to our postings - we love hearing from you! Okay... let's catch up a bit.

Views of Buller Gorge area on the way to the west coast (Jan 13)

After leaving Takaka (The Golden Bay), we made our way to the west coast via Murchison and the Buller River Gorge. The route took us through some beautiful farmland, past crystal clear rivers and scenic gorges. We probably should have stopped more often to take photos, but it was raining off-and-on and we were anxious to get to the coast. Sunday evening in Westport was quiet and the town didn't seem to have much to offer, so we made a quick dinner on the beach, played around in the sand a bit and headed south for Greymouth.

I decided to pull over at Fox River to sleep for the night and drove right down next to the river. Little did I know that we were so close to the beach that the tide would affect the water level. A few hours later, we woke to water slooshing around under the van and up into the slider step. Luckily, we were able to start the van and quickly back up to safer ground (sputter, sputter). But the van died after that and wouldn't re-start - not easy to fall back asleep. Fortunately, the next morning she did fire up again, with about 20 minutes of choking and complaint. Determined to get her healthy again, I kept the revs up until she dried out - Whew!

Lucy didn't like the high tide at Fox River

We REALLY enjoyed Global Village!

Greymouth was a welcome site and we decided to stay at Neptune's hostel near downtown. Our double room had a TV, a sink and a balcony! We cooked big, tasty meals, did some laundry, walked around town, relaxed and took in a movie in the room. We also heard about another highly rated backpackers in town, so we drove by to check it out. BBH Global Village turned out to be fantastic - wonderfully decorated with Indonesian and African themes, free kayaks and mountain bikes, sauna/gym & spa, free range eggs from their chickens and super hice hosts. We booked two nites and wish we could of stayed longer! We also ran into our friends from Abel Tasman again. On our second night in Greymouth, we did a brewery tour at Monteith's with them and had a blast. It's funny how travelers paths will cross so many times unexpectedly, even when those routes aren't really planned out. We connected with our firends from Isreal here and again in Hokitika, the next town down the road (and made a point to finally do dinner together).

Brewery Tour at Monteith's - a lively bunch

Kayaking on the lake behind Global Village Hostel (Jan 16)

Tim took me up to the mouth of the glacier

There is meaning all around... (Jan 20)

Out of Hokitika, we had our sights set on the glaciers (Franz Josef & Fox). I really wanted

Tim and his guide, Gavin (Jan 18)

to do an all-day guided hike up one, so I decided on Franz Josef after asking around for advice. While I was on the glacier, Jen reserved an en-suite room for us (broken TV = $30 discount) and relaxed around town for the day. The hike turned out to be great and our guide, Gavin (from Ireland), was superb - please check out the photos! The next morning, I led Jen to the foot of the glacier for a 1/2 day hike and we stopped and had some snacks near the big ice cavern. Huge chunks of ice were calving off and then rolling down the river - it was pretty exciting!

Views of the river outside of Wanaka (Jan 20)

After the hike, we drove down to Wanaka with a scenic spot to sleep next to Hawea Lake. We are in Wanaka today and checked into a campsite for 2 days. It's a cute little town and we are looking forward to a couple days to relax and give Lucille a little TLC. Today is out 1-year wedding anniversary, so we'll log off now to enjoy the rest of the evening and will catch up with you in a few days.

Cheers,
Tim

Abel Tasman - the long way around!

TwoSouls — Sat, 12 Jan 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Cheers family and friends!

Do we look like we are ready to hike? (Jan 06)

Starting the 4 day adventure... a little hung over (Jan 06)

We are finally back from our 5 day tramp, but we ended up making it a two part adventure. We started the track on Sunday and planned to walk the entire track through to Thursday. But the weather took a nasty turn on the second evening and after two nights camping in the rain, we took a vote and decided to take the next water taxi back to headquarters and dry our boots while sipping on a pint in the local pub. It was a beautiful hike as you can see from the photos, but it just ain't no fun camping in the rain, especially with stinky toilets, wet socks, critters getting into our tent and the ever-famous SANDFLIES! We are still recovering from some pretty nasty bites, but it's all a part of the backpacker lifestyle.

Stopping for a breather on the track (Jan 07)

We headed back to Nelson to regroup in a backpackers with our old friend Arne and our new friends from Germany, Flo and Sepp... after a big BBQ and a hot shower, we stayed the night in the van and decided to head up to the north end of the track (the end we never made it to) to enjoy the hut we had booked for the next night.

Late dinner with the boys at the hostel (Jan 09)

We backtracked through Motueka and up to Wainui to get ourselves back on the Tasman trail. After a short twilight hike, we made dinner on Whariwharangi beach and slept in the old hut - built back in 1897 by John Handcock. It was well worth taking the long way around to hit this section of the track and we recommend it to anyone heading this way.

Dinner on the beach at Whariwharangi Beach (Jan 10)

After finishing up the hike, we settled into Takaka. It's a cool, artsy little town on a river and has been a great jumping point for us during the last Tasman hike, a day trip up north to Collingwood and for an outdoor concert we have tickets for later today. On Thursday, we walked around town, caught a movie (Lions for Lambs by Robert Redford - highly recommended by both of us!) and watched the locals kick their feet up at Open Mic night at The Brigade.... it was quite a fun day. After a night in the van, we drove up north on Friday and then found a watering hole for Tim to do some cliff jumping. It was a bit chilly for me this time around, but I'll get there eventually! Then to Pupu Springs to chill with some new made friends by the campfire and a good night sleep in the van on the river.

Cool mural in downtown Takaka - 48 people painted it together (Jan 11)

This morning, we ran some necessary errands, walked around the Saturday market and will head to Cobb Valley for 24 hours of live music and camping. So we will say goodbye to Takaka, a town we've grown to like very much, and start heading south again. We've been lucky to meet very cool people and find some great spots to camp... and we've managed to forego the cute artsy, fartsy stuff that I so much want to buy. It's just serious-strength bug repellant, sunscreen, cookies and beer for now. We are missing you all and hope you are well. Once we get to a more affordbale internet city, we will publich a few e-mails and do another blog - it's Tim's turn.

Big hugs and WICKED (NZ slang for "cool") fun!
Jen

Finally some sunshine in Nelson!

TwoSouls — Sat, 05 Jan 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Hello from sunny Nelson in the South Island!

New Years toast with Mate and Veronica (Dec 31)

Happy New Year to all of you and thank you for all your kind e-mails and loving thoughts you've been sending these past days and weeks. We wish that we had more time to respond to the e-mail and update the blog site, but we don't want to spend the bilk of our days in these crappy little internet cafes... we do hope you know how much we are thinking of you and that we see you in so much of what we do!

After a great night out on New Year's Eve, we relaxed in Baelena Bay most of the day and soaked in the sun. We walked through the Botanical Gardens and spent a little more time tripping around town before preparing for our ferry ride on the 2nd. We really enjoyed Wellington (#3 on the list thus far) and met some really great people in the North Island, a few of whom we are connecting with now in Nelson. We are traveling with Arne from Holland - we met him in Rotorua and will be hiking Able Tasman with him staring tomorrow for about 5 days. It's nice to have anothe traveling companion and we've enjoyed camping in a local holiday park on the outskirts of town

Views from the ferry - brrrr! (Jan 2)

Sleepy New Years Day smiles...

We hit a farmer's market this morning and are doing a little shopping for the trek tomorrow - we need to make sure we have lightweight dry goods and plenty of water, especailly since it's been so warm these past few days. Tonight we will head south of town, meet some friends at a house-party (some sort of 80's New Zealand band) and try to find a free place to camp tonight before hitting the trail. I'm excited to get some exercise, althought we've all thoroughly enjoyed the relaxing on the beach and just tripping around town. Able Tasman is supposed to be one of the most beautiful tramps in NZ, so we will defintely have some great photos to share.

Tahuna Beach camping with the boys (Jan 05)

I am going to keep this short so that I can tag some of our photos. We are doing fine and have managed to slow down on the money spending a bit. Most of the residue from the theft has been taken care of and we are being A LOT more careful with our belongs - so need not worry - we DID learn our lesson, at least the best we know how. There are bound to be negative things that happen while we are on the road, so all in all, we are in good shape. I am missing my family and friends... I keep wanting to buy all sorts of gifts and goodies for you, but I will refrain for now, at least until I get to Asia.

Big hugs to you all... and be sure to take a few days off here and there - you deserve it.
Love - Jen(naynay)

Sunset at the campground (Jan 04)

A Knock Down, But Not Out

TwoSouls — Sun, 30 Dec 2007 00:00:00 GMT

While enjoying a quick dip in Spa Park back in Taupo, our van was broke into and we lost some important things- phone, Jen's passport, credit cards, mp3 player, and Jen's toiletries. Admittedly, we were lax and left things in plain view (and didn't notice one window wasn't latched). We learned the hard way this time aroundRegardless, Taupo was great and we enjoyed a trip out on the lake aboard the Barbury,

We're on the Barbary on Lake Taupo (Dec 23)

Errol Flynn's old sailboat. Sailing to some Maori carvings for photos and a swim...I was the only one who wanted to swim- pretty cold water and the weather still being so-so.
We had planned on doing the Tongariro Crossing which some have said is better than Milford, but the break-in caused us to just want to move further south. Christmas day we arrived on Wellington at the YHA Wellington City
This YHA has a 4-star rating and is very comfortable but busy. We checked in for the one night in dorm style beds, freshened up and went downstairs to prepare dinner.....the two kitchens were both full of people cooking large X-mas meals (smelled awesome!), so we opted to just have pizza (a large delivered to hostel members for $6.50) and drinks. This was a very different sort of X-mas for us - we miss our family and know they are missing us too...!

Tim and Jen self-portrait on top of Mt. Vic (Dec 30)

Who would of thought... Two Souls Bistro! (Dec 31)

Hopefully, everybody is having a great holiday and getting some time to check our blog.
The YHA has become like a second home. Even though we take off to sleep in our van at night; we cook, shower, hang out, and make new friends there. We recently did a pub crawl with a group from there- fun, fun! Wellington is beautiful and there's much to see and do. Te Papa museum is new and huge (a whole day's worth)...free too! The veiw from Mt. Victoria is fabulous 360....Cuba Street is full of shops and pubs....Botanical Gardens, Parlaiment, the waterfront and more. This is also the windiest city I've ever been in...almost never stops.

Views of Wellington (Dec 30)

Downtown Wellington - where the hip hang out... (Dec 31)

Yesterday, we made contact with our first Couchsurfing host. We visited at a great place (Southern Cross) and met again at his house for a stay-over. CSurfing will hopefully become frequent throughout our trip. It's definitely a good $ saver and way to meet locals.
Well, this is the last day of 2007 and I hope this blog finds all of you in good health and dandy spirits!.}

Wellington hostel (Dec 30)

We love you all and hope hear from you via email!
Happy New Year!!!
Tim and Jen