I also enjoyed some time at Luipini Park where the photo of the giant lizard was taken. Masses of locals gather in the evenings to take part in synchronized dancing to house music. It's mainly older people and quite a spectacle.

I also visited the Grand Palace, also stunning. And after a night of night marketing, my time in Thailand came to an end. Today, I arrived in Singapore, where my trip began. It's wonderful to see friends Mesh and Abby again. And surreal to be easing back into civilization (where I don't have to worry about the contents of a drink and eating raw veggies are safe).

And so the trip draws to an end. At the beginning of this journey I felt the time I had allotted was far too much. I wasn't sure how I would get through being away from Porl and my family (especially my nephew with his daily changings). And yet now, at the end of my trip, I feel it was just the right amount of time away. Just long enough for me to rediscover myself, to find Maria again (not just Maria of Maria and Porl). And time enough to know that I can still enjoy an adventure or two in life.

Mesh asked me tonight what the highlights of my trip were and it was simple: the people. The locals I encountered were so kind, so helpful, so easygoing. They always offered a smile even if they didn't understand what was being communicated. They would stop to give directions even if they couldn't speak a stitch of English. They would offer you a chair to sit inside their shop while torrential rain came down.

I was impressed and touched by the warmth I received. It truly was an experience. Of course, there was the scenery, the piercing green rice fields, the soaring mountains, the winding Mekong River.

Things I will not miss, however, include (in no particular order): leeches (okay, maybe in some kind of order), ants, mysterious bugs in showers, hard mattresses and even harder pillows, scratchy towels and punishing heat.

I could not have done this trip without several things: Music (a huge shout out to the shuffle feature, Kings of Leon, James and Home Video -- if you don't know Home Video, go to Pandora and check them out). A sense of humor (to laugh it off when the locals hack up loogies every 15 minutes during an 8-hour bus trip or stop every 5 minutes). And, of course, most importantly, this trip would not have happened if not for the gentle nudge and unwaivering support of Porl. For that I am grateful. Thank you.

And thank you for those who have kept up with the blog (my apologies if my entries were not as poetic as I would have liked). And thanks to those who emailed regularly and checked in.

I am sad to leave this easygoing vibe. This simple pace. But I am looking forward to seeing family and friends.

See you soon,

Nuttter.

AT HOME:
Too tired to move anything but the lambswool poly urathane applicator for the second coat on the bedroom floor. Back to my day job this week so not much is going on except making this mess of a house just slightly more livable for Nuttter's return. Hmmmm, should get some food in and move the beer out of the upstairs fridge SHARPISH!

Groovespook
]]> Tue, 25 Aug 2009 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=8130 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=84358 0 1.2930556 103.8558333
Dispatches from Bangkok confirm our Heroine is in Bangkok now, "One Night in Bangkok" echo's through the lobby of her guesthouse as she heads out into the searing humidity for a 12 hr temple sight-seeing day.

AT HOME:

Groovespook.]]> Sun, 23 Aug 2009 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=8130 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=83371 0 13.75 100.5166667

Nuttter.

AT HOME:

The following morning we tackled the beast that is Angkor. We went to the two "main" temples, Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom. Truly amazing feats of architecture.....every inch of stone seems to have an intricate carving (and I have the photos to prove it!).

The following day saw crazy me leave the hotel at 4:50 a.m. to catch sunrise at Angkor Wat. I waited with what felt like the papparazi and there was nothing to see! It was overcast so it was anticlimatic. The good part was being there in the early morning when not as many people are around. It was so peaceful and awe-inspiring to go past Angkor Thom in emptiness. What I thought would be a half day visit turned into an all-out marathon (I think because I didn't have Virag with me to be the voice of reason). I didn't leave the grounds until 6:30! The tuk-tuk driver (who slept during my temple visits) said I was a strong lady (I think he meant crazy). Unfortunately, I really overdid it and can't even think the word temple!

Today has been a day off of sorts. Virag and I visited two sites. One where you can see people making various stone and wood carvings and silk screen paintings. Then we went to a silkworm farm where we saw and learned about the whole silk making process. It was unbelievable. I ate a silkworm while Virag looked on in disgust (for those wondering, it tastes like corn).

Tomorrow I might go back to the temples (I bought a three-day pass) or I might not. It all depends on how I feel. My legs hurt just walking up regular stairs so that's not a good sign!

Nuttter

AT HOME:

I continue today and hope to have all doors in place and start some spackling on the ceilings.

Groovespook

]]> Tue, 18 Aug 2009 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=8130 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=82407 0 13.3949633804641 103.875732421875

And so I left Krache for Cambodia's capital, Phnom Penh. Surprisingly, the bus arrived ON TIME. Crazy. Cambodia has such a different personality to laid-back Laos. You can see it just in the driving. Instead of mainly motorbikes and tuk-tuks, Cambodia's streets are occupied with SUVs (Lexus and Toyotas are quite popular) that scream down the streets packed with people. The roads are pretty much all paved so there is no game of miss-the-pothole. But the two countries do share similarities. They are full of such kind, helpful people. Always with a smile.

I arrived in Phnom Penh not sure what to expect. Quite a few travelers I've met along the way have had a lot of negative things to say about it (it's polluted, the traffic is nuts, it's dirty, it's too busy, etc.). But Phnom Penh and I got along just fine. Yes, the traffic is nuts but in an entertaining way (for me anyway). Picture New York City traffic except instead of yellow cabs you have motorbikes, cars and SUVs. And no traffic lights! It's complete craziness but somehow it works.

On my first full day there I spent most of the day on the back of a motorbike (it's the best way to get to the sights). So, for $10, I had my own driver from 9:30 until about 5. I wish I could have put a camera to my helmet because words cannot do justice to the traffic. There are no rules, you just go and people let you in. It was quite funny to see Chi, my driver, make a left-hand turn into the lanes with on-coming traffic. He would just continue zipping along until he could glide into the right lane. And intersections are amazing to watch! Cars and motorbikes edge forward to either cross a highway or turn into it and they keep edging out until they are in the way of oncoming traffic. I will say it was a bit unnerving to see a van or car heading straight for us. But, as you can tell from this email, I survived. I also wore a helmet. There was a moment when I was a bit fearful but after passing a motorbike with a male driver with two kids and a woman, that moment passed. There's me hanging on tightly while women passengers sit sidesaddle. Too funny. It was like being a part of a Bourne Identity chase scene.

On a more serious note, I went to visit two places that shed light on Cambodia's past. The first stop, S-21 was a former school that the Khmer Rouge turned into a holding cell/torture chamber during the 1970s. It was truly a somber and sad thing to witness but one that I felt was necessary. It's always one thing to read about history but to stand right where it happened, to see what was done, drives the point home. From there I went to The Killing Fields. This is where people who didn't die in s-21 and other victims were brought daily to be killed. They were told to kneel before a shallow mass grave before a blunt instrument was used to knock them out and into the grave where there throats were then slit. Just awful. Again, a somber experience.

From Phnom Penh I took an "air-conditioned" bus to Batdambang (northward bound). You know it's hot when the locals start fanning themselves. It was five hours of stuffiness which led to me splurging on an air-conditioned room. Truth be told, I enjoy the rooms with just a fan. It works for me. But after that bus ride, AC was on the menu!

Batdambang is a compact little place. Lots of old French buildings along a peaceful riverfront. My cooking class was good fun (I didn't burn down the place). There were eight of us and we cooked three meals although we all agreed we wouldn't be able to remember it! Thankfully we got cookbooks at the end.

Today I spent a lovely couple of hours cycling outside of Batdambang. It was such a gorgeous ride, winding roads shaded by coconut tree leaves. Again, the kids make such excursions well worth it. They always yell out hello or wave or run after you.

Tomorrow I am heading to Siem Reap. I am taking a boat. Leaves at 7 a.m. and takes about 5-6 hours. Have heard it's a very scenic ride, but I've also heard they pack in passengers. And then there is the sun....although it's a covered boat, you can opt to sit on the roof (which many people say is the best for viewing and space). So, let the chips fall where they may!

It's sinking in that my trip is coming to an end. It seems like the days are quickly passing by. While I will miss it, I'm looking forward to seeing everyone.

Until next time!

Nuttter.

AT HOME:
An enormous 10 yard long container (a "skip") gets dropped in our driveway this weekend that will spell T H E E N D for the 45 black bags of concrete debris and old gnarly pieces of "de-nailed" wood (yes, I de-nail my debris) that has lined our porch for the last 3 weeks. It also marks the ACTUAL beginning of SHEETROCKING. Only 3 weeks behind schedule. I have taken the next week off work completely to really dig in and get some serious sanding and spackling done. I hope that by Wednesday I will have all the sheetrocking up and can start working on the floors whilst spackling like a...spackler?]]> Fri, 14 Aug 2009 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=8130 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=81970 0 13.1 103.2 Fri, 14 Aug 2009 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=8130 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=81969 0 11.55 104.9166667

Nuttter slaved over an ancient computer last night/this morning and has gifted us all with a few more visual snippets of her travels. Yay.

I know that she probably does not want me to post the "Pig-Mart" shot from the Umbrella mall in Cambodia but I am not the only meat lover amongst us! Vegetarians shield your eyes!

AT HOME:

Video shoot in NYC today so my dried and damaged hands get a (sort of) break. ELECTRICITY IS FINISHED AND ON!!!!!!!

Groovespook.]]> Sun, 09 Aug 2009 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=8130 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=80986 0 12.4833333 106.0166667
Maybe it was the ride into town. I finally got to ride on the back of a motorbike. It was me sitting on the back of the bike with my large backpack strapped on and my hands holding on (tightly) to the back seat while the driver kept my small pack between his legs and drove me about 2km into Kracheh, Cambodia. Or, maybe it was the room I chose: four walls, a window, a bathroom with a Western toilet and ants that keep to the floor, not the bed. Or, maybe it was the food: lots of fish (grilled not fried and inexpensive) and dishes with tofu (had a tofu mushroom burger with FRENCH FRIES for lunch for $3.50). Or maybe it was just the excitement of arriving into a new country. Maybe it was all of the above and more. Whatever the reason, I arrived in Kracheh this afternoon and am swept up in the energy of it all.

There is a food market down the road that sells all sorts of fruits and vegetables and meats and what looks like body parts at times. There is an assault of smells and noise and grit. It's a scrappy place with buildings that look slightly charred and side roads swimming in litter. Kids "play" by burning styrofoam or plastic. Despite this, I've fallen for Cambodia. The people have been very friendly, quick with a smile. Kids run up and say hello. And it's definitely a busy place compared to the sleepy 4,000 islands.

Opposite the market (figuratively and literally) is the Mekong River that is showcased along a lovely promenade with decorative lamps.

Nuttter.

AT HOME:
Just pottering on. Very lazily today.
]]> Sat, 08 Aug 2009 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=8130 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=80932 0 12.4833333 106.0166667

Tadlo

I was going to leave Tadlo after my first day/night there. Tadlo is a small, sleepy, relaxing spot known for its three waterfalls, two of which can be explored within half an hour. On my first day there that is just what I did. The third waterfall was an hour away by road and I just wasn't in the mood to be walking on a road for that long...didn't seem very scenic.

In the morning, I packed my bag and went to have breakfast. Started chatting to a couple in the place who went for an elephant ride at Tadlo Lodge (which offers lovely bungalows either right alongside one of the waterfalls or right ON TOP of it). And it will set you back a whopping $35 a night. It was much too romantic for a solo stay). At any rate, this couple really enjoyed the elephant ride so I looked into it. Then the owner of the restaurant asked if I was interested in doing a guided trek. I'm not a huge fan of guided treks here mainly because I'd much rather go off on my own and because they tend to bring you into villages where you stare at locals and they stare at you...it feels a bit too voyeuristic for my tastes.

But I was in the mood to interact with others and a French couple were going. So, I unpacked my bag, put on my hiking boots and went on the tour. The funny thing is at the restaurant, there were signs touting the tour "Take trek with English speaking guide, learn about Lao people and their working habits!"

Well, our guide was the restaurant owner's father, a lovely man with black dress slacks, a button down shirt and hat. Fifteen minutes into our trek and I asked him what the people of one village do for work and he just smiled and nodded. So much for English-speaking guide. Although, towards the end of the hike, he did turn to me and say: "You very nice person." So, it was all good!

I hiked with DeeDee and Julie, two very nice Parisians. We hiked to the base of the third waterfall and on our way back it poured. The three of us wore hiking boots and as usual, the locals walk around either barefoot or wearing flip flops. In all weather. It's quite humorous to see the falang (tourists) in their hiking gear, trying to gingerly navigate a muddy path when a local comes running through in flip-flops. Case in point, our guide helped each of us cross a stream. We walked across a line of stones while he held our hands and walked in the knee-deep river!!

The plan after the trek was to ride the elephant but they were booked. So, I went to visit the elephant (he just hangs out, unchained near the lodge). He let me feed him a banana. So I booked an 8 a.m. ride for the following day. The plan was to ride the elephant then leave Tadlo.

But that night I met the Portuguese duo, Isaac and Juoa. We had such a good time, they are the kind of people that light up any space. They are so full of life and positive energy. It was Joa's birthday the following day (the elephant ride day) and I decided to stick around for another night. I'm glad I did. We had fun. The guesthouse owner is a huge jazz lover and there was much music swapping. It was so nice to hear Portuguese being spoken and to hear Portuguese music.

The following day, myself and the two Portuguese (hereby known as the porkchops) headed for the 4,000 islands. We had a brief pitstop in Paske, where we had lunch at our favorite Indian restaurant (honestly, I came close to staying just for the food!) and I had to get more money out as the islands do not have any ATMs.

We then took a VERY crammed open-air truck-like vehicle to the 4,000 islands. It was a 3.5 hour journey in this vehicle that included about 35 adults, two infants, one toddler, bags and bags of food and, on top of the vehicle, a motorbike, more bags of stuff and chicken coops. I have photos that accurately capture the crammed nature of the ride. Because it's open-air, you get a lot of dust hitting your face, getting into your eyes, making looking out the back impossible (which is where we were seated). The porkchops were able to twist their bodies in a way that they could face the front but I didn't have that kind of room. Given my past experience in these vehicles, I was determined to get more space. So.....I stood on the back of the grate at the end of the truck with a couple of local men. It was soooo much better than sitting (although I did get hit with the sun). It was like riding a subway.....a long subway.

We arrived, found places to stay and got washed and had a lovely dinner. The next day, I hired a bike and took the island roads. The weather was perfect, a sunny day with a cool breeze. I felt like a kid whizzing past rice fields, guar and huts. The children are just the best...they scream out hello to you no matter how far away they are. And, if you prompt them, they will hold out their hands for a high-five as you ride past. Even the adults make an effort to say hello. It's quite endearing.

On my ride, I came past the porkchops, they were heading south, I was heading north. We chatted for a bit before going on our ways. I wanted to cycle to the northern point of the island (which is 24km in length and 8km wide). I did and then thought I was heading back to the starting line. But then this is me we are talking about. I am probably the first person in the history of the island to get LOST. I took a wrong turn and ended up intersecting the island and going north again. Imagine my horror when I saw the same structure I had just seen an hour ago! Too funny. So, at the end of the day, I rode for nearly six hours, got too much sun and saw a bit more of the island than I had planned.

The following day, myself and the boys headed further south -- a two-hour boat ride to the next island, Don Det. I woke up thinking I would take it easy but that never happens! After chilling out for a bit Joa and I took to bikes to explore the island we were staying on (Don Det) and the island you can get to via bridge, Don Khon. Of course, right after hiring our bikes it absolutely poured with rain. It stopped but it left the roads a very muddy mess. My sandals may look dorky (well, no maybe about it, they are dorky) but they stay on while walking through thick mud. Flip flops on the other hand...not so much. Poor Joa did his best to keep his flip flops on but halfway through our journey he was barefoot. We crossed to the other island and took in a lovely waterfall...a mass of gushing water everywhere. From there we cycled to a beach (well, kind of a beach). We were going to take a boat to see some dolphins but decided against it as the sun was setting and we had quite a journey back. We were absolutely covered in mud!

Back at the guesthouse, we got ourselves clean and then had a lovely dinner at the restaurant adjoining our guesthouse. The owner is a very lively woman. She is quite sharp and friendly....I was planning to move to another guesthouse but have decided to stay on because of the warm vibe from her and her family. The guesthouse we found is very basic. Just a wood bungalow, two hammocks, a bed and a mozzie net. No fan, no light inside the room. The electricity here runs from 7 until about 11. There are shared bathrooms (translation, you need to walk a bit to get to a squat toilet). In the evening, when I went to use the toilet there were two frogs hanging out! I have to tell myself I am camping, I am camping...it's really the only way to plough through.

It was quite nice hearing the river at night. It was a quiet night even though I didn't sleep well. But then, I haven't been sleeping well most nights. The beds are hard, the sheets are musty and sometimes bugs are included. But there you go.

This morning was a sad one. The boys headed off to Phomn Pehn. I am staying on for another day....I am telling myself it will be a day of rest...reading in the hammock, etc. But it's only 10 a.m. so that could all change!

I am sad to see the boys go, but I hope they will visit in NJ....you will all adore them!

Sorry no photos to attach, the connection is soooo slow and there are cobwebs on the computer. Seriously.

Nuttter.

AT HOME:
Totally not ready to do any sheetrocking tomorrow but 2 friends are coming over to hlep do it anyway. GULP!

Groovespook
]]> Fri, 07 Aug 2009 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=8130 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=80713 0 14.1166667 105.85 Muang Khong.

Nuttter is in a reqion of breath-taking beauty. The mighty Mekong has spread out into hundreds of tributaries that meander through swampy-grassland and rocky forests, at times restful and calm, at times violent and angry. The Mekong's murky turbulent water so bent on going south that it ignores everything in it's path. Probably.

RANDOM: The Mekong is the 10th largest river in the world. It is estimated to be 2703 Miles long and drains an area that is 307,000 Miles square.

Our adventurous princess is very close to Cambodia now and starting what can only be described as the next leg of this awesome journey, named so simply because it takes place in another country. Dispatches have Nuttter taking it easy for a couple of days and enjoying the sights and locales of the 4000 islands as we/she waves goodbye to Laos.

AT HOME:
Oh the utter joy of neat wiring. I suspect by tomorrow that ALL of the wiring - bar connecting a 60 amp breaker and the mammoth #6 cable to the mains - will be complete and awaiting an inspection. Then I think I am going to make a big push for a sheetrock party on Saturday.

Groovespook]]> Wed, 05 Aug 2009 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=8130 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=80541 0 14.1166667 105.85
No, this is NOT Nuttter ON AN ELEPHANT.

This is my fancy new Sub-Panel awaiting a few more cables and grounding rods and so forth. ho hum.

REAL NEWS - - -
I actually had a physical, real-time conversation with our heroine this morning.

Nuttter is in Tadlo which just simply does not appear on any map but from these dispatches I gleaned that it is "near" Ban Bakeng - north of Pakxe.

We are expecting a photo of Nuttter ON AN ELEPHANT (Walking is SOOOO Passé) and news has it that, apparently, the only thing that makes a westerner stand out more than just being a westerner in Tadlo is being a westerner and wandering about ON AN ELEPHANT.

Nuttter met a couple of Portuguese back-packers - they let those people go anywhere!! - and had a wizzy-jolly time chatting about the old country and probably struggling to speak Portuguese (Ouch! - I did go there!)

Nuttter is expected to head to the 4,000 Islands (wonder why they call it that? It's basically where the Mekong just spreads out over a huge area and creates a myriad of islands (probably 4000 of them)). Or she will make a bee-line for Cambodia.

AT HOME:
Complications with the electrical side of this project have hindered the pace a bit, I have to instal a sub-panel to deal with the 5 new circuits for the upstairs (Retiring the steel wound 60 yr old stuff for EVER) So virtually everything has GROUND to a halt (there is a pun there - based around having to instal an 8 foot long solid copper grounding rod).

]]> Mon, 03 Aug 2009 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=8130 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=80322 0 15.3666667 106.0666667
I knew I couldn't stay another night there (in addition to the bug at about 4 in the morning a strange juggle animal sound started to come from the bathroom, which had a window). Not sure if it was a gecko (do they make loud noises?) or what but it didn't help the situation.

So, the next morning I checked out and found myself a lovely room on the main street. It normally went for 100,000 kip (or so they told me) but they said I could have it for 90,000 but I asked if they would do it for 80,000 and they did! It's on the top floor with a TV, a fridge and AC and no bug sightings to date. I slept very well last night (although I'll admit I watched crap television, too).

Today I did some wandering around town. It poured all morning so it was a lazy day. A good day to catch up on writing, etc. I was going to go to the gym but was feeling pretty tired in the afternoon and happened upon a spa that looked lovely. So, I went in for a facial. For one hour I was pampered starting with a foot scrub, the facial, an arm, hand and shoulder massage and even a neck massage all for under $10. Ladies, Laos is heavenly!!!

Of course, it begs the question WHY have I waited this long to treat myself to a facial! I'm hoping the budget will allow more of these...it could become addictive. The facial consisted of putting a sesame oil on my face and massaging it in and ended with cucumbers on my eyes and a paste of red fruit that hardened on my face. I was concerned because I've broken out a bit and wasn't sure if the oils would hurt rather than help but my skin looks and feels fantastic. Thank you, Laos!

Nuttter]]> Fri, 31 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=8130 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=79720 0 15.1166667 105.7833333

Just a quick note, got 5 more photos uploaded today. Including this one that proves Nuttter is really there and gives us lonesome friends something to remember her by for the next few weeks.]]> Thu, 30 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=8130 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=79462 0 16.55 104.75
I did meet some nice people on the bus. A nice guy from Oz (Gold Coast, of course) and a retired couple from Brisbane and a newlywed couple (she was Australian and he was Japanese). The guy got off the bus a stop before me and the other two couples landed in Vietianne with me. It took not six hours, but nine. Granted, we did have to have a tire changed, but that only accounted for 30 minutes.

why so long then you ask? well, that brings me to the cultural lesson of the day. Laos transportation.
Here's how it works. As I mentioned before, the drivers operate on Laos time. This means you never leave on time. And you never arrive on time. There are some VIP buses out there for some routes (this means it's a direct bus to the location you want) but sometimes you have no choice but to go with the public bus.

To give you an example of how the public bus operates, I will use today. I left Savannakhet this morning at 10:30ish (see above regarding the ish comment). I'm fairly certain that the journey to Paske is probably only 3 hours. How long did it take? Five hours.

It started out well. The driver actually left only a couple of minutes late. Typically there is the driver and a co-pilot of sorts who sits at the front of the bus. He helps load baggage and handles the money/tickets. So off we go! Kind of... We then spent the next 45 minutes driving about 5 mph going through town as the bus driver beeped the horn to let the whole world know the Paske bus was coming through! We picked up more people as he went. Finally, after 45 minutes or so, we picked up speed and were going about 40 mph!

Then it's a typical public bus because everybody's gotta eat!!! The bus driver beeps his horn as we get close to a food stall stand and then he pulls over. Some people get off the bus to pee and others stay on. There's never anything said to the passengers so you have no idea if this is a long stop, a short stop or what. I caught on it was a long stop when I saw the driver and his two co-pilots sitting around a table eating! After all, it was noon and we'd already been on the road a whole whopping hour and a half!!!!

For those of us on the bus, we were treated to a group of women coming on board to sell their foods..... kebabs of various grilled meats. Each woman had a bunch of kebabs in each hand. finally, we get back on the road. We pick up more people on the way including a man with some 35 bags of grain (the size of a regular cement bag)!!! So, of course, that took quite a while as the co-pilots considered whether or not they could fit it all on, etc. We get going and then, before you know it, we pull over. A woman had requested this stop. I thought she was getting off the bus (that would be silly!) She wanted to buy some grilled meats at the food stall!!!!

Then, an hour later, it's another stop. And so on and so on. It's actually quite painful (can you tell). To add to the whole experience, there is ALWAYS cheesy Laos/Thai love pop songs playing. Loudly. Everyone seems to love it and it's all about the same thing (girl likes boy, he doesn't know she exists or he is cheating on her or whatever). But this trip was extra special as we had a TV on board so not only did we listen to the music but we got to see the videos (and the lyrics in both Thai and Lao which appeared karoke style, I kid you not). The music videos were too funny! They would depict the lovelorn male/female...adults but they acted like high school kids! Public displays of affection are not accepted here so the videos would never show couples kissing, instead, they would just look at each other, bat their eyelashes and look away. Or, a common theme, they would gaze at a photo of them as a couple on their cell phones and then slowly, dramatically, bring the phone to their lips and kiss it! Or, they would draw hearts in the air while lying on their hello kitty bedsheets (I'm not kidding) or they would call their girlfriend on their cell phone while in a trench in some war (hopefully you are laughing as hard as I did). Honestly, I felt like the main character from a Clockwork Orange by the time we arrived.

A special shout-out to Bloc Party, Home Video, Placebo and New Order....I could not have survived without you!
Needless to say, the trip was exhausting and I couldn't wait to get off the bus! I am now in Paske, southern Laos. From Vietianne, I travelled to Savannkhet where i spent the day and night. I was planning to stay another day but woke up to rain and decided it was time to go (another deciding factor was my guesthouse....very clean, cosy....the condom packet in the room should have been a giveaway...didn't realize people would actually be using them that night..but sure enough at 12:30, 1:30 and through the night I might as well have been sleeping in a brothel--I'll leave the rest to your imagination). It was time to go!

So that is that. Will plan to email again tomorrow. Miss you all and drop me an email and let me know what's cookin'!

Nuttter
]]> Wed, 29 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=8130 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=79403 0 16.55 104.75 Savannakhet. Quiet, cosy litle town. Highlights are the English signs through out the town.

Sand and Cheese Sandwich.

High Peeds Internet.

Enjoy your test! (footer on a menu) ]]> Tue, 28 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=8130 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=78932 0 16.55 104.75 Laos have our hero making a bee-line out of Vientianne to Savannakhet. Vientianne is a little too touristy and - to date - the most expensive place so far. THe bus ride from Vientianne to Savannakhet was billed as 6 hours. reality: 9. OUCH!

AT HOME.
(snoring sounds) "wha... wha? oh, (picks up hammer and bangs on wall) working hard!" (falls back asleep). Nearly have 1 room totally prepped for sheetrock and lights and outlets. ]]> Tue, 28 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=8130 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=78815 0 17.9666667 102.6

YAY! PICTURES!

Laos is hot. How hot? Three showers a day hot. Constant sweat hot. Blazing, punishing sun hot. Want to feel like you are here? Preheat the oven to 400. When it reaches that temp, open the door and lean forward. That blast of thick heat is what it's like here. Every day. All day. Frankly I'm surprised I haven't melted yet!

Tourists here do their best to beat the heat. Walking around under umbrellas, drinking lots of water or having fruit shakes. Wearing shorts, t-shirts. Meanwhile, Lao people walk around in skinny, tight denim or cordoury pants and long-sleeved tops. Show-offs.

Nuttter.

AT HOME:
Just got back from a great weekend camping in Wharton State Forest, checked email and YES! One from Nuttter and so have posted another blog entry and uploaded some great photos she took BEFORE cleaning up the camping mess and having a bath that may be the most wonderful bath ever.

Groovespook]]> Sun, 26 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=8130 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=78454 0 19.8855556 102.1347222
From there, it was another bus ride to Nong Kiahaw and who should be on the bus but the family that was part of my hike! In addition to the four of them, two French sisters (in their 50s) were on the bus. Plus me. It was a very winding and swervy road with stunning scenary. I think the worst part is seeing such lush beauty and not being able to document it!!

We arrived and all of us booked into the Sunrise Guesthouse, a lovely place with bungalows overlooking the river. Very sweet. The town has a bridge that pedastrains can cross that offers wonderful views of the river and surrounding mountains (and more mist!). I immediately hired a bike and went off in search of a cave in the area. Found it and did some exploring before cycling around a bit more and then heading back. Had a lovely dinner at an Indian restaurant (yes, Indian). The garlic naan bread was heavenly!

The next day I headed further south to Muang Ngoi Neau (that's okay, I still can't pronounce it properly). It rained the whole day, which was fine. It meant just chilling on the outdoor veranda/hutch that overlooked the river. Stunning views. The French sisters (I swear they were hardcore travelers... They are going for some 6 months and are now heading far north on a 5-hour boat ride) and I stayed at the same place. Another bungalow with views of the river and surrounding karts.

The "main road" in town was a dirt road about a mile/two miles long. The children would spend time drawing pictures in the dirt. There is no electricity except between 6 p.m. and 10 p.m., which added charm to the place (seeing the food stalls light up with candles and Christmas lights). The following morning I was unsure if I was going to stay another day or not. The town is known for its cave so I decided to see if I could get to it before the 9:30 a.m. boat left. The roosters have a knack for waking me up. There was one right under my bungalow (I swear!) that started going at about 4:30 a.m.). Fellow roosters then tried to outdo him.

At any rate, I walked in my sandals through muddy paths and passed locals on their way to the rice field (I'm fairly certain they have never seen a tourist up that early). I went for about an hour before I had to turn back. At the bungalow, I decided I would stay on for another day. I ate and then returned to the trail determined to reach the cave this time. Again, I wore sandals. It's de rigour (the locals either walk barefoot or wear flip flops). I was having fun, snapping pics of clusters of butterflies and lovely flowers and stomping through the mud like a child when I stopped and looked down. And there they were.....leeches! I SWEAR I have had enough!! No guide around this time to de-leech me so I grabbed any old leaf and did my best. One was wriggling on my sandal in search of skin and another had latched on (quite well I might add) to my big toe. It truly ruined the hike for me because I was paranoid for the rest of the journey (although I'm happy to report there were no more leech attacks).

I reached the cave and headed back. It was neat to see the trail at different hours of the day (mist and no mist). In the evening, I partied with the locals! Well, not really partied. The son of the guesthouse owner invited me to join him for some drinks (and no, it wasn't like that). So, I took him up on it. Had my first taste of lao lao (rice whiskey). Tastes like tequilla. Had three wee glasses and held my own.

The next day it was off to Laung Prabang. When I got back to Nong Kiahaw, myself and five other backpackers learned that the minivan with comfy seats and AC was leaving at 1 p.m. and would take three hours. The sangwalthea (not sure about the spelling....bascially a pickup type of vehichle with "seats" in the back, covered. You sit and face one another)...that was leaving within minutes and would take four hours. We opted for door number two. It was quite an experience....sitting still for four hours, I felt like a caged animal. It was quite numbing both physically and mentally. But an adventure nonetheless. We even had three monks jump on for a short part of the trip. LOVE the orange robes.

We arrived early (which is shocking given how very slow everyone here moves....example: it took a restaurant 40 minutes to make a peanut butter and jam sandwich...I kid you not). Got settled and went exploring. Laung Prabang is complete culture shock. I went from no electricity, a bungalow with cows and roosters, a squat toilet (I'll spare you the details but there is no toilet paper involved) to this: a town that is teeming with tourists, streets are LINED with cafes offering cappuccinos, pizzas and pastries. The rooms are tiled and hotel like (no bed-net needed). It's nuts! I think this must be how Westerners feel when they first arrive in NYC.

At any rate, it's a lovely, decadent town. My first day and I sat myself down to a piece of chocolate cake and a fruit shake (thanks Ro and Nalini!). At night, the place comes to life with a whole section of street blocked off from traffic and it's full of vendors under red tents selling handicrafts and all sorts of items. Karen and Monica, you would never leave -- tons of jewelry, scarves, etc.

Now just trying to figure out how I'm going to head out. Wanted to take a flight, but they are booked for the next couple of days. Might have to be a bus... Eight hours. Eek.

Oh, and I found a gym today! I know, I know what you are saying, but I don't care! It was fabulous to go in and have a proper workout. Still able to lift the same weights.

Okay, signing off now. Miss you all dearly. As for the mozzie bite count, just got bit while tapping, so there!

Nuttter.
]]> Thu, 23 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=8130 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=77837 0 19.8855556 102.1347222 Nuttter should be slowing down the pace a bit and getting some much needed R and R now that a familiarity with Laos has started to take affect.

MOZZIE COUNT: 4

LEECH COUNT: 4

ANT COUNT: 4,000,000,000

AT HOME:
The Legend that is Rich came over this evening and, in a whirly-gig of high energy and coke swilling madness, helped to get another stage complete while I busied myself running cables all over the ceiling and walls for the ALL NEW ELECTRIC UPSTAIRS. Still prepping for Sheetrock, the walls are TERRIBLE and a myriad of hurdles must be crossed. Things are moving slowly and have me a bit panicky. Nothing a weekend away camping won't fix right? (gulp). Must not sweat it too much, rushing is the real danger here, not having it all done when Nuttter returns is not.

Unless I get the "expected" email from "Her Laosness, Queen of all the Ants" tomorrow, I doubt there will be another post until Monday of next week. Nuttter does read the blog though and is bitterly disappointed there are not more comments. She misses everyone greatly.]]> Wed, 22 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=8130 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=77814 0 19.8855556 102.1347222 Good news is, the place where she is staying has WIFI!!! population of about 12 I think, but Wifi, LOVE the priorities.

Still no uploads of images yet but for the curious, if you click on any of the orange words (generally places - sometimes what Blogabond THINKS is places) it will take you to other blogs from backpackers that have visited these places - most of them have pictures) Alternatively, download Google Earth. it is fantastic and is linked to this site http://www.panoramio.com where the entire world post images and places them on the map of the world.

Nutter spent a fairly uneventful (reads: She did not get travel sick) windy, bumpy 4 hr bus ride from Louang Mantha to Muang Xai after a fantastic hike through the forested countryside.

She was joined on the hike by a couple of backpackers and a family of 4 (2 girls aged 12 and 13 with them) Lots of slipping and sliding in mud from recent rains made the trip more fun and word has it (though there are no eye witnesses) Nuttter was the only one that DID NOT fall in the mud.

Victoria, the 13yr old, found a leech on her and caused a bit of a panic through the group, turns out Nuttter had 4 on her. "Leeches, filthy little beggers" (Bogart - The African Queen)

They were still very small though so had not sucked much blood out. Bet you are all glad about that. Bet you all did not probably want to know that really. He he!

MOSSIE BITE COUNT: Still 1
LEECH COUNT: 4

AT HOME:
Yeah, about that. I am staring out from a tranquil home, the upstairs apartment of Nuttter's sister, husband and angelic little boy. A choppy lake in Mantaloking reflects the early morning sky. It glistens on the water like muted, crinkling kitchen foil. The world slows down a bit when we visit here. Still, I am thinking about the office ceiling that I will be SMASHING TO PIECES this afternoon.
]]> Sat, 18 Jul 2009 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=8130 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=77059 0 20.7 101.9833333