katja-horsch

... and that's it!

katja-horsch — Wed, 24 Aug 2011 00:00:00 GMT

So after a proper break in Europe, I had another 7 weeks in Cambodia in the rural wild west in Oli village or also called: Thmar Pouk.
At the first hospital meeting shortly after my arrival the staff made clear that they would like me to help implementing the Ministry of Helth Infection Control guidelines and to work with the staff on the new pediatric ward.

this is not good...

new paint was given and this was the result

patient kitchen and medical ward

Together with Oli’s support we managed to do some good workshops for the cleaners and staff about general cleaning and handwashing. We developed posters for all sinks to give easy guidance and we even went on a long trip to Phnom Penh to get dispensers with alcohol gel, affordable through donated money from Oli’s friends and family. It was a very satisfying moment seeing all dispensers fixed to the walls and being used (of course not as often as we would like) by staff, patients and visitors to clean their hands. After 6 weeks we had a round of refilling the dispensers already. The alcohol gel is now bought by the hospital and refilled by the pharmacy.

our pride, the alcohol gel dispenser with the sighns on

this cricket found a new home and has from now on always clean hands

The role models

Oli also sprayed bins to indicate the different use.

yellow for 'infectious waste'

Now, what goes into the yellow bin???

there we go, even the hospital director smiles!

more and more visitors and patients attend the weekly health education

what a great team! Oli and his VA Sokpha

On the childrens ward I worked closely together with a helpful nurse and together we run the ward at the end on our own. While working with her I could give her tips and advise on how to do things better. We had our up’s and down’s but in general I was very grateful to have this experience after working for 2 years in a nursing school.
The children on the ward had mostly Dengue Fever, Diarrhea or Bronchitis. Severe cases could not be treated and were sent to Siem Riep by taxi. One time I got really worried when a staff nurse turned up very drunk for work. I just about could avoid him do harm to a baby by injecting something directly into a babies arm. I never found out what happened to him but I heard that this is nothing unusual and I’ve seen the staff playing cards and drinking under the tree or playing volleyball instead of being on the ward. It’s just a normal thing.

We also had visitors, one of them was Kath who came up from Phnom Penh to do some workshops for the midwifes.

lunch on Olis balcony

Kath, Oli and Sokpa

Kath visits the children ward

meeting in Thmar Pouk

On the maternity ward I got insights of laboring women and freshly newborn babies which is always exiting and heart warming. Unfortunately during my time here we also had still births and maternal deaths, usually due to eclampsia.

little Angel Alisha

Alisha and her mum Chanty

and this photo was taken only a year before...

We also raised seedlings from little seeds of the magic 'Olifera' tree and gave them to the hospital kitchen to use the nutritous leaves for the patients in future.

lets hope they grow tall and strong

Mary (an education VSO volunteer) introduced us to the prison in Sissaphon where I facilitated three health sessions covering relationships, sexually transmitted infections, contraceptions and condom use, for male and female prisoners and I educated about smoking. Especially the woman prison was poorly to see. Inside the prison the 120 female inmates who have done from stealing to killing are crammed into 6 cells. Some are pregnant, some have children and those 18 children run free around the prison complex without education or other stimulation. Nobody takes care of them.
Fortunately Mary and a handful of other dedicated NGO’s try now to improve things there for the prisoners.

together with some prisoners (on the right)

typical Cambodian photo shoot posing

the prison in a rainstorm

it was raining very badly

the prison in Sissaphon

and that morning it was unbearably hot but no other place to go...

I had the great opportunity, to also learn more about Thmar Pouk and to see more beautiful and real rural Cambodia.

the 'famous' very wobbly bridge

we just about made it over

relaxing after breakfast

which way shall we go?

a pig on a leash!

Rice harvest or planting

to be passed on the way to work

not for eating!

friendly dogs at daytime

the tree with the hidden giant Chameleon

lovely houses

... in a very calm way.

and life goes on in Thmar Pouk...

I also made some new friends, this is Sophat whom I worked with on the pediatric ward.

with the Doctor, Mr. Sovann and Sopath on the ward

She invited us one afternoon to eat my favourite Cambodian food, Ban Sum.

After 4 weeks being in Thmar Pouk, I also went up to Stung Treng to see my friends and family again for the last time.

I never ever have to come here again, to Snoul!

Cow bum!

my beloved Srey-Niem

I cooked my curry for all of us

meeting at the river for the 5pm drink

say cheese!

Carol looking radiant

with my Cambodian sisters Tida, Tom and Rek-smey

hopefully it will help lots of RTC students in future

this is the new student accommodation building, nearly finished

my favourite view in Stung Treng

a moto goes into the bus

Stung Treng from a distance

beautiful sunset

my last time on Spean Sekong in Stung Treng

with Wendy at her local po-cha-nea tan mee

While Oli was up in Anlong Veng to do some work whith Wendy, we decided to take the opportunity to visit Preah Vihear Temple, the one that had be fought over by the Thai. I can confirm that the fighting has stopped and that it is definetely of Cambodian ownership.

a bullet-proof statement

The temple is on a mountain and they are just in the process of building a new road to get up there more easily.

We also had a big cloud sitting on the temple all morning which gave the whole szenery a kind of mystic touch. The funniest thing was that as soon as we arrived, the bored soldiers came up to us and one took Oli by his hand and took him around. As if I wouldn't exist!

a little treat to keep the energy flowing...

Dr. My won't be very happy!

Last time we were in Siem Riep, Oli dragged me to cycle to the Butterfly farm with him. It was a hot day and it took nearly 3 hours each way, but it was really worth it.

after hours of cycling, we finally arrived

cycling to the butterfly farm in Angkor Wat

We went through the Angkor Wat compound because that is where the farm is. So it was also my very last time to see the great temples...

shy children in Angkor Wat

and? What does this remind us of?

waiting for Capitol Bus in Siem Riep and this was what I saw

inside the Fraginpany's

I have the feeling something big is going to happen...

anyway, do they have pizza with gherkins?

and this is how we drink beer in Cambodia! Take a lemon or lime,

spritz the juice into your beverage,

dry your hands with some tissue

and then ask for more ice, or a toothpick

drink after saying: cheer-moi or soka-pe-ap la-or

Saying goodbye wasn't easy...

On my last weekend in Phnom Penh, we went to the Bear Sanctury in the Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park and Rescue Centre.

Oli and I were volunteers for the whole day and had the chance to find out more about these absolutely adorable sun-, moon- and asian-bears. We were even preparing little snacks that we then hid for the bears to find. It was wonderful.

this one is a bit older and was suffering

I love bears!

two cuddly bears

a cambodian goat!

making little treats for the bears

looking comfy

nearly feeding time!

the peacock with only one leg

she wanted me to hold her hand all the time

this mega python was found at the river in Phnom Penh

hiding food for the bears to search for

this is Brandy

this little one is all on his own but hopefully in good hands

he was found in Ratanakiri

only 3 month old

this is Georgi

I loved the bears!

Ingran has also finished his VSO placement, so we had another little goodbye do in Phnom Penh.

Ingran left also

Dave, Paul and Tak

another leaving do in Phnom Penh

the last time in the Pav

on Street 19 in Phnom Penh

around Phnom Penh

our new VSO Programme Office

Bye Bye Sareth, my lovely friend

We stayed with lovely Alison and Paul.

from VSO volunteer to Expat - our Alison and Paul

On my way back to the UK, I popped to Switzerland, Lausanne, where Antje and John live now. It was absolutely stunning there. We also went camping for a few days.

enjoying home made food

Sophia and our tent

Switzerland at its best

with the Alps behind me

ice-cream always helps with small children

Now back in Oxford, live goes on.

I have a beautiful view out of the window too

my new room

Holiday in the first world

katja-horsch — Sun, 10 Jul 2011 00:00:00 GMT

2 years ago I landed in Cambodia to share my skills and to change lives. The time in Cambodia has certainly changed my life miraculously and I think I have gained new life long experiences and friends. I completed my work placement with VSO before I went.

Our holiday to the UK after those 2 years was to join 2 family weddings we were invited to and to see how it feels again to be in the 1st world.

We started from Phnom Penh and flew via Bangkok to London where we stayed with Oli's good friends Alison and Ben for a couple of nights.

Oli and Athlet Ben after their 10 km morning run

Ben looked very smart that morning (here with my Cambodian belongings from 2 years on his back)

We had a lovely time. Then we went back to central London and dumped our luggage at Oli's brothers house to travel with lighter luggage up to Scotland the next day.

Louis waits patient for attention

London double decker bus

feed the desire...

After we arrived in Edinbourgh by train, we stayed at Oli's friend Elsbeth for a few days. Meanwhile we explored Oli's old hometown.

the famous castle in Edinbourgh

Edinbourgh

landed in Edinbourgh

Oli enjoyed very much his maccaroni cheese and chips

this pub curry was not as good as ours

lovely smell

in this charity shop we bought our hats, gloves and scarfes

they could really put the radiator on in here...

having a rest from climbing up Arthur's seat

windy up here!

good view

this scottish whiskey was actually really tasty

veggi haggis, the scottish delight. I liked it.

Then we went with Oli's parents up to Glasgow to Loch Lohmond. Oli's cousin Bryony got married the next day. It was the most perfect day for a wedding and the most beautiful location.

could saying 'yes' be nicer anywhere else?

with the bride, Olis cousin Bryony

the blokes with their kilts

please don't give me a Glasgow kiss!

what a perfect day

at midnight at Loch Lohmond

The next day we drove down with Oli's parents towards his proper hometown Delph.

we visited a beautiful english heritage site on the way back from Scotland

very english...

Cheers with Gewuerztraminer at the Shipps house

Olis mum arranged this exhibition

at a local art exhibition

we've seen a few 'open gardens'

Olis parents and his aunt

with Jenny, David and Oli

beautiful red poppies on the way

Olis 'local' pub in Delph

this is where Oli comes from

bah bah!

what a beautiful horse

strolling along the yorkshire fields

nice green grass

After a few days in beautiful Yorkshire, we went back to London where Oli arranged for some friends to see us at his brothers house.

in Jonny and Sashas garden

VSO reunion in London with Jen, Charlotte and Holli

Jonny baked Pizza for all!

Holli came to London to see us!

The next day I arrived in Oxford. It was lovely coming back!

das Oxforder Abholkomitee

so suess!

entzueckend!

and John cooked especially Pad-Thai for dinner

we're becoming housemates soon again!

at the 'rusty bicycle' pub

There Í had time to sort out my new living space and I started the process on my midwifery training at Brookes University.

The next day, we all flew to Germany to the next wedding.

3 pinkies going to Germany!

pre-wedding exitement

infront of Mathia and Andreas flat

Antji

side streets in Lueneburg

Lueneburgs Town Hall

St. Nicolai Church

It was Mathias and Andreas wedding in beautiful Lueneburg. We had such a wonderful time!

do you know the feeling when you sometimes want to kill somebody?

waiting for the big moment

this little tile got fixed on top of the tower where they got married

the amazing wedding cake

the lovely happy couple Matzi und seine Andrea

the saladbar is this way...

with Mami and Rudolf and the next married couple Roland and Kathleen

Sightseeing in Lueneburg oder auch, den Sekt ablaufen gehen

After the wedding we drove back towards my hometown but on the way we stayed in Neu Sammit and camped with my friends for a few days. We had such a lovely time and unfortunately I left my camera in the car so I don't have any pictures.

Back in my hometown Guestrow, I showed Oli where I was from.

wild poppies and camomile everywhere at this time of the year

a german 'dragon boat'

Mamis tolle Topfplanzen

I met someone in Cambodia who tried twice already to visit this sculpture but the church was always closed...

'Der schwebende Engel' from Ernst Barlach in the Dom church

and this is our town hall

and this is our market area

at the Gliener See, my childhood playground

playing with the girls the stick game

our castle in Guestrow

what wonderful smell!

me and my Dad in the Lavender garden

We also met up with Doerti and Marcus.

Prost und auf ein baldiges Wiedersehen!

ok, who wins is allowed to pay the dinner bill

I tried so hard!

Oh I am such a looser...

with my Doerti

After a few days in Guestrow, we took the ferry and spend the weekend with Oli's friends in Copenhagen, Danmark.

BBQ in Simon and Pippas garden

Yippie! A Trampolin!

this is where Simon jumps into the baltic sea, every morning!

Sunset over Copenhagen

with the bus into the city

inside the marble church

Copenhagens opera house

a rather posh boat

the mermaid elephant in Copenhagen

Oli and Preah

from a poster exhibition in Copenhagen

why not having a slice of carrot cake and a cappucino?

digesting the expensive meal...

after a long evening..

living within the commune

so this is where the hippie commune lives?

who is more attractive...?

Make love - not war

Christiania was full of spray-art

our ferry which brought us from Rostock to Danmark in less then 2 hours

Back in Guestrow, we picked up the girls a few days later and flew back to England.

aye aye captains!

our little boat trip on the Inselsee in Guestrow

Tilda und Sophia am Inselsee

waiting in Buetzow for the train to take us to Hamburg Hbf

What a nice way to wake up...

ueber den Wolken...

Goodbye London, see you again in 2 months

We had a fantastic 4 weeks in Europe but it was also really nice coming home. You can read here why: (a short article for the NSJ magazine)

Going home… to Cambodia

Returning to Europe in June after 2 years volunteering in Cambodia was a big deal.

Leaving work was not so sad because I felt ready to go. But saying goodbye to beloved volunteer friends who had become so close was really tough.

Even harder was leaving Cambodian friends and family, knowing that they will probably never leave their surroundings because they are too poor – or maybe just too fearful. I always feel guilty that I am from one of the richest countries in the world. In their eyes I am rich and I agree.

Having taken the final tuktuk ride to Phnom Penh airport I was soon transported to another world – by watching 5 films back to back on the plane!

Suddenly we had landed in London. At first it didn’t seem so different – just another airport – but then we stepped out into Marks & Spencers and Costas. And all those white people – all dressed in suits like they’re going to a wedding! And the cold…

Our first coach ride was to Luton, to be picked up by a friend. The uniformed driver introduced himself before carefully stowing our luggage. We sat in a velvety seat with acres of legroom! Just as we set off (bang on time) the driver said “Please fasten your seatbelts”, which had us in fits of giggles. Driving into the dusk, it felt so smooth and safe like still being on a plane and it was lovely and quiet, so relaxing…

The landscape was so different. Of course no palm trees or rice fields, no cows or dogs on the road. Instead, motorway and big electricity masts covered the grass fields we passed.

And it was like this throughout the whole trip: relaxing and smooth, but cold and expensive – suddenly I was definitely not rich anymore! In Scotland everyone else enjoyed the summer whilst we headed to the nearest charity shop to snap up their gloves, hats and scarves! We did have great fun speaking our ‘secret language’ though.

But I had this constant rice craving. Every time we saw a Thai restaurant, my heart bet faster and we had to go in. I sometimes cooked rice myself but it didn’t taste the same – it wasn’t the slightly sticky rice that you can eat in Cambodia.

Instead I had to eat bread, cheese and cake and of course we were especially spoiled in Yorkshire with pies and in Denmark with smoerebroed. My stomach didn’t like it and I suffered. Plus everything tasted very bland and boring. And my stepfather pointed out how bad my table manners had become!

After a few weeks in Europe I was also really missing the colours of Cambodia. And the people, the landscape, the heat. We had a great time with all our friends and family, but it was so good to know that I could return one more time to Cambodia.

On the plane back I promised myself I would really enjoy every moment that I have left here. I felt happy and relaxed – I was coming home!

Ho Chi Minh City and the end of my VSO placement in Stung Treng

katja-horsch — Sun, 03 Jul 2011 00:00:00 GMT

this picture is made out of eggshells

As my last weeks as a VSO volunteer passed by, I lived and enjoyed life intensively in Stung Treng and elsewhere.

Oli was very keen to visit the South of Vietnam and especially the capital - Ho Chi Minh City or as they call it unofficially: Saigon.

propaganda posters everywhere for forthcoming elections

We decided to travel by boat this time and it was a pleasant change to a sweaty and noisy bus trip.

We did all the passport business on the River and stayed in a beautiful little village called Chau Dok in a "floating hotel" for one night.

typical vietnamese transport option on the water

can you spot the cat?

The next day we visited an ancient temple on the way to Saigon.

in the snake cave

a chinese budda picture

an unusal tiger infront of the temple compound

In Ho Chi Minh City, we stayed for 2 nights and did sightseeing mainly by walking.

familiar names...

inside the national art gallery

a beautiful building

town hall

we witnessed a lot of weddings that day

the vietnamese "Notre Dame"

a vietnames seller tries to persuade to buy something

another ancient temple

Oli got a picture promised by this artist for his new children ward in Thmar Pouk

the national art gallery

filtered vietnamese coffee and some other welcoming refreshments

a painting hanging in the art gallery

the opera house

The next day, we visited the 'famous' Cu Chi Tunnels, a 75-mile-long underground maze where thousands of fighters and villagers could hide during the Vietnamese war in 1968.

the Cu Chi Tunnels

The tunnels were used by Viet Cong guerrillas as hiding spots during combat, as well as serving as communication and supply routes, hospitals, food and weapon caches and living quarters for numerous guerrilla fighters. The tunnel systems were of great importance to the Viet Cong in their resistance to American forces, through which they secured American withdrawal from Vietnam and ultimate military success.

We've also seen all sorts of horrible gadgets to trap the Americans.

you can't see it in the grass when it's closed

I don't want to fall into this trap!

Oli was very brave

I didn't quiete make it

I had a panic attack while crawling through the deep down tight tunnels and had to exit sooner. Oli managed to crawl through the darkness the full 100 meters.

We also visited the very interesting war museum.

war museum in HCMC

Agent Orange Warning flag

after Agent Orange was used

When we were walking around the city, the fact that I suddenly commented that it looks really nice in Bangkok made me realize that we were traveling a lot recently and that everything became to look the same.

nice juice in Vietnam

After our visit I have certainly learned a lot about the historical drama that happend also especially in South Vietnam and I have a lot of respect towards the Vietnamese people.

Back in Phnom Penh, I met with my lovely friend Sareth and we had lunch together. She is a qualified nurse now (training in Stung Treng RTC) and studies Midwifery now in PP. I am very happy about this and can only encourage and support her.

with Sareth and her friend Sityl - having lunch

Ratha, our VSO tuk tuk driver and office guard

happy painting - happy people

Back in Stung Treng, I finished my work in the Regional Training Centre and did one last event with the help of Angela and Carol, we gave some training on donated equipment to the Midwife teachers. We found this material last year sitting in their boxes in this dirty,dusty room and asked why it was not used. I am sure this happens all over Cambodia. The answer was that the teachers didn't know how to use it. A questionable answer. If we wouldn't have come back to it the equipment would still be unused today. So we cleaned the room, took out expensive modern equipment and put it on shelves (which was another act to get some) and got familiar with it to provide training for the teachers. It all worked out very well and I was satisfied when I left.

strong team

equipment training in the RTC

Angela knows what she's doing

Channa obviously enjoyed this session

It felt very weird leaving the RTC but it was also a relief. After all, I've spent two years there but all didn't work out as I planned it without being my fault of course : )

My director Mr. Tek Leng Sou gives me my leaving present

Another highlight before I moved away was our dressing up morning.
All Stung Treng volunteers met to have heavy make up and glitzy dresses.

2 hours make-up session beforehand...

...until we got this result!

having difficulties Wendy?

Carol

Maria and Ingran

with Wendy and Angela

Ferdi, Roy and Chris

with Carol

with Maria

Angela had a beautiful gown on

getting ready for the ladys group photo

David, a future VSO volunteer?

with Carol and Lin

the Stung Treng Ladies!

I will miss you Stung Treng, my trusted volunteer friends and family. I couldn't have done it all without you: Helen who let me stay with her at the beginning in 2009 when I first arrived and who gently introduced me into the Khmer world, Holli who I could talk to about everything and who I became so close with, Evic who gave me this huge teddy bear when I felt so homesick 2 years ago, Delia who gave me great comfort and confidence, Louisa, Carol my great friend, sister and mother, Linda who gave me a lot of love and challenged me too, Maria and Ferdi who both made me love the Philippines again, Ingran who became a great friend, Rachel and Anthony who are an incredible couple and lovely people, Jan and Thea who I admire for their strong will and passion, Angela and Chris who enjoy the Khmer way as much as I do and Wendy who I could rely on. Thank you all for being there for me. I will miss you! I hope very much we all keep in touch!!!

new lights on the bridge

sunset opposite my house

a lovely view from Sekong Bridge

my favourite view - Stung Treng in the afternoon sun with my house on the right

My leaving do was at my house but I felt rather sad so it didn't develop into a huge party. I asked everyone to bring some food and I prepared a slide show with lots of pictures which I then showed on sheet hanging on the wall via LCD. It was lovely though.

a variety of delicious food, produced by us

the last party at my house in Stung Treng

Carol my dearest, I miss you every day!

oh Lin, missing you!

amazing Jan and Thea, farewell!

Maria, I will miss you!

bye bye Roy!

Wendy, Angela and Chris, I wish you a wonderful and rewarding time in ST

good old Ferd, I will miss you

my good bye present - love it!

my Vandy and Rek-smey

Not enough party. As part of VolCom (Volunteer Committee for Cambodia) I was one of the organizers for a volunteer party in order to celebrate 20 years of VSO in Cambodia. My favourite job. So Ingran, Eileen and myself organized a VSO party on a boat in Phnom Penh on the Mekong river. A 4 hour party with free beer and snacks. Of course it had an entry fee. This evening was also the last one for me and Oli before we flew the next day to the UK.
We all had a ball!

welcome on board!

lets get this pary started!

Dommi, Wendy and Clare having fun

Gilly, Sam and Abi, the Kratie volunteers

Ella, Carol and Chris

someone has fun!

Linda and Anna are batch mates

I am going to see Ingran back in England soon

2 VSO midwifes talk about what?

Party animals on the boat!

Stung Treng housemates

Group photo!

It was very hot...

DJ Ingran says his last few words...

This is what 4 hours party on the boat do to you!

20 years VSO in Cambodia! Happy birthday!

hungry volunteers waiting for the after party falafel

Stung Treng rules!

Yes and this was my last time as an official VSO volunteer. I'm out now. Had an exit interview and have been 'discharged'.
After our holiday in Europe I will back and work as a 'non-VSO'- volunteer
in rural Thmar Pouk in Olis hospital for another 7 weeks. Looking forward to that.

The next blog will be all about England, Scotland, Germany and Denmark. See you soon! Your Katja.

Weddings in Stung Treng 2011 and some good news!

katja-horsch — Sat, 07 May 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Where are the Twiglets?

On the 29th was the Royal Wedding in the UK and although I don't have a telly, I heard all about it from the other volunteers because it was in the media non stop for weeks.
The Phnom Penh VSO volunteers sent an e-mail around to invite to a Royal Wedding party and it said they even invited the British Ambassador (which was a joke I found out later).
Us in Stung Treng then thought, we also should have a Royal Wedding party as it is such a big event! So Linda prepared her House, Anthony prepared a special Royal Wedding Pup Quiz and I provided the prize. Everyone brought snacks and beer and then we dressed all up for the special occasion and hung in front of the telly, admiring the brides dress and getting an English atmosphere here in Stung Treng.

did they kiss already?

Good afternoon Kate and Will!

I heard that all the other provinces also did Royal Wedding parties.

Angela, Ant, Thea, Carol, Maria, Linda, Wendy and Chris

... two massive wooden thai massage sticks!

and the winner of the pub quiz gets...

Well done, Carol!

The other good news is, that I had a successful Skype-interview with Oxford Brookes University and they accepted me for doing the short midwifery course starting in September. I was overwhelmed with joy! I am going to become a midwife!!!

Kerb is one of the experienced Dolphin Boys

At the same weekend, Abi asked me to come to Kratie to help her to take pictures of the 'Kratie Dolphin Boys' as she was allocated to be the official Dolphin-Boy calendar 2012 photographer. Of course I didn't say no! What an opportunity! It was fantastic!
First of all I love to stay with Abi as she is a great friend of me and it's always like holiday being with her. Then she has Rock Lobster, who was born in my room in Stung Treng!

Abi and I trying out the camera

with Rock Lobster

georgous girls

All the photos we took I can't show now and they will be released in the next years calender which will be available at the end of this year. But I can show some impressions from the great afternoon we had at Kampi with the very fit and hot Kratie Dolphin Boys.

aehm, these Tuk-Tuk drivers didn't make it onto the calendar, sorry...

waiting in the warm clear water..

feeling hot hot hot...

Huk is also an experienced Dolphin Boy and has done it many times before

handsome Huk

Beer really helped us and the boys for some really good shots

getting into the mood

Joe gives Hukki some advise on his pose

the Kampi-rapids were very fast

the money from this calendar goes to support the remaining dolphins in Kratie

the dolphin boy and his mermaid

last check in the mirrow

waiting for their turn

handsome Dara

I'm doing some spritz effect for the photo

with Kerb, Abi and Joe in the Tuk-Tuk

And finally, on the 7th of May was the day, my Cambodian family had waited for a long long time for. It was the wedding day of my oldest Cambodian sister Peach.

Peach on her wedding day

It was an arranged wedding and the deal was made shortly after her birth. She was going to marry Andy, a man her same age (21), who grew up in America after his parents managed to flew from Cambodia before the Pol Pot invasion in 1975.

He said to me: "Next time I am going to have an American wedding."

He can hardly speak any Cambodian and everything was very strange for him here. His family felt pity with my family but somehow on the actual wedding day everybody was very happy.

Tida and her friend.

We all got white make-up on to make us look more sa-at.

Look at these fake eyelashes!

my special made wedding top cost $50!

Poor Rith had to cook for all the guests behind the house.

a last quick shoes polish...

Everything started very early of course, that is the annoying thing about Cambodian weddings. At 4 am the monks start chanting through loudspeakers so that the whole town can hear it. The happy couple then gives promises back and forth over the microphone that everyone can hear it. Then everyone gets ready for the first ceremony outside.

Both families walking towards each other and they exchange flower necklaces.

They were wearing traditional costumes for each procedure. All day was into the clothes, out of them, in, out, in, out... Fascinating.

proud Vandy and Papa

Then the first official photo shoot and the present exchanging with the parents.

both twin sisters, Andy and I

lots of funny looking wedding presents

Until we finally had BorBor (Rice soup) at around 9am.

Then we witnessed the haircutting ceremony where hair got cut off symbolically and then given to the good spirits.

the proud parents

the stunning bride this time in pink

looking from below and from above

Peach and Andy

with Nana and Touch, the sister of the bride

lots of clothes, what choice!

Then came the procedure where the bride washes the feet of her husband.

the groom with his best men waiting for the bride to wash his feet

it was very hot all day...

Then something like a knife dance was performed.

this is David, our happy restaurant baby

Andy and Peach, the happy couple.

And then the morning was finished and everyone had a rest. In the afternoon, we were all busy to get ready for the fun part of the wedding, the party in the evening!

under my room

Vandy and her sister getting make-up

Peach with her final? hairdress

waiting for the guests to arrive

Vandy looked amazing that day

Beautiful Rek-Smey and I

Nana liked Rek-smey

and another one of Nana and me

Peach and me in her welcoming dress for the guests

And finally at around 7pm, my friends arrived and we all sat around one table and ate and drank and talked and danced as well.

Caro, Pauline und ich

Angela trying to eat her chicken drum with spoon and chopsticks

the old man from next door

They both looked very happy at the end of the day.

good posing!

oh they had fun with each other

Nana and I

the pink ladies

After the food, the happy couple went to the fruit table to do one last ceremony - feeding each other and the parents fruit, before the party exploded!

feeding lychees to each other

couple dance!

Papa and Vandy, relieved that it is all over now

Josh und Caro schwingen das Tanzbein

Carol and Maria

Angela and Chris

Josh und Caro

Ich hoffe es geht Euch allen gut! Viele Kuesse und Umarmungen von Eurer Katja!

Mekong River Swim and vegetarian delights

katja-horsch — Thu, 28 Apr 2011 00:00:00 GMT

did it in 19 minutes and 38 seconds!

(This text is written by Oliver Shipp)

The chocolaty Mekong oozes its way through Cambodia towards Phnom Penh, supporting riverside communities and picturesque boats. It is impressive, photogenic, even beautiful. But would you really want to bathe in it?

this is how I felt

this is how Oli felt

Daring VSO volunteers Katja, John and Adrian defied tradition, intuition (and medical wisdom) to successfully swim nearly a kilometre across the mighty, murky river.

I swam like this

our numbers

Surprisingly, they weren’t alone in this questionable weekend pursuit. No less than 164 brave souls stripped off and plunged into the muddy depths as part of this year’s Mekong River Swim.

I'm doping myself

getting all ready and pumped up!

From the relative safety of the wobbly wooden Mekong Flower support boat, Ella and Oly were watching, wondering, and waving the VSO flag. Whatever nasties coated the swimmers, all that was on the spectators’ lips was one question: Why?

Oli with Sarah's sunglasses

excitement before the start

The event was too late to be an April fool. Hardy adventurers that they are, it seems the challenge of traversing one of the world’s great rivers was reason enough.

In fairness, the swim was also promoted by VolCom, as part of its ‘events’ role to bring together the volunteer community. Katja’s bright red VSO t-shirt also provided positive publicity, as well as a useful marker for the hovering rescue boats.

can you spot me?

I'm giving my best breast stroke here

It was also a fun social event, mainly for the Phnom Penh ex-pat community, but with a sprinkling of local support too. And it was for a good cause – proceeds this year will help rebuild a school in Ofunato, Japan, destroyed by the recent tsunami. It is an interesting turn of events that funds are being raised in still-developing Cambodia to help one of the world’s richest countries. (There has been no confirmation of the rumour that next year proceeds will help Britain’s cash-strapped health service).

putting on my visibility cap, just in case i drowned, they could identify me with it

Happily all three brave volunteers made it across intact. Hopefully the chosen crossing point from Prek Leap Agricultural College was far enough upstream to avoid the worst of the city’s unregulated drainage – certainly at the time of writing their consumption of Mekong water has not been definitively linked with any subsequent hospitalizations.

apart from swallowing a lot of brown water, I felt fine!

Whilst the swimmers gagged and gurgled, conversation among the spectators turned to the future of the Mekong. It’s a challenge, as communities in no less than 5 countries depend on the river, as it flows from China, through Thailand and Laos into Cambodia, and finally out into the South China Sea from Vietnam.

the VSO Mekong River Swim participants, first, second and third - I came second though

Of particular concern are plans to build more dams upstream, which will change the river forever. Admittedly the developments could provide significant, lucrative and (crucially) clean and renewable hydro-electric power.

the VSO boys

John and Oli

Adrian, myself and Sarah in the Tuk-Tuk on the way back

However, critics complain plans are being pushed through without consultation or assessment of the environmental impact. Ordinary river-dwellers are unlikely to see the benefits (reserved for government officials and foreign economies), yet will be greatly affected, being forced to change crop irrigation and their present fish-based diet.

Fortunately the organizers must be confident of the river’s future, in the short-term at least: the 16th annual Mekong River Swim is scheduled for early April 2012. Fancy a swim?

with the official Mekong Swim T-shirt

Afterwards, Oli had his first Cambodian shave on the street.

someone had a proper shave there...

everything will be fine!

careful on the throat there!

song ha nah!

first time Cambodian shave

And we celebrated Danny's leaving do in Phnom Penh together with other volunteers.

good red wine!

John was in top form that night - what love does to you...

Oli and Emily

The last out of 3 glasses full of mixers for John, with Danny, Sam and Oli

at the 'elsewhere party' in Phnom Penh

knyom srolaing nek!

boys and their idols...

Text written by me and published in our local VSO volunteer magazine:

What's love got to do with it?

I never thought I would write an article about food. But now I think about it every day!

I don’t want to lecture or sound like someone who knows it all. I just want to share my thoughts with you, and perhaps it will trigger something in you that will affect you for life.

When my sister gave up meat I remember making fun of her. When she was grumpy I said it was because she needed bratwurst! Now I feel ashamed of what I said, especially when I hear similarly ill-informed comments made by my family and even some of my friends.

Today I celebrate having been veggie for a year. This is largely thanks to Oly, who quit eating meat and fish as a rebellious teenager, and who finally helped me to do what I always wanted but didn’t know how.

So why have I chosen to quit eating meat and fish? You know why: for love!

Dragon-fruit anyone?

Firstly, I love animals. I love the calm cows, the pink pigs, the fast chickens, the beautiful creatures who live in the Mekong and the sea. And I don’t kill things I love (or get someone else to kill them for me). And I try really hard not to cause pain to those I love and not causing pain is the biggest issue for me. Do those pig screams when they are slaughtered not make you feel something? We live in a Buddhist country, so we should be familiar with respect for animals, and I wish even more people would put such precious beliefs into practice (including the restaurant which just opened in front of my house, where they tether a young cow to a stake each morning, later to kill and roast him on a spit by the road – it breaks my heart every day).

Secondly, I love my life, and I feel far healthier as a veggie. As a health worker I am now very aware of the growing body of evidence connecting diet to health. Human beings don’t need to eat meat or fish. I am very happy to be avoiding meat, with its links to heart disease and cancers of the bowel and stomach. Interestingly, even the most recent issue of Medinews from MEDICAM Cambodia reported that meat and fish are linked to bowel disease. I am also pleased to have a lower risk of food poisoning and worms, improved digestion, and better breath! And I am delighted to be eating more healthy food, tasty tofu and nuts. I am now much more food-aware, and enjoy buying, sometimes cooking and eating delicious dishes. I live with a Cambodian family, and I’m thrilled to say that they started to cook and eat veggie food with me, with mouthwatering results!

Thirdly, I love the planet, and I am convinced that stopping meat-eating is the single most important thing most of us can do to reduce climate change. I understand that a veggie diet is hugely more energy efficient, a meaty one much more wasteful. I want my children to have children to have children to have children. If we don’t dramatically cut demand for meat we will destroy our future.

Over Christmas I was reading a moving and gripping book by Jonathan Safran Foer called Eating Animals. It is brilliantly written and full of great stories – but it is not fiction. If you are brave and honest enough to read it, it may well change your views and your life.

For example, do you think it is wrong to eat dogs? Foer explores this difficult issue, asking how it could be morally different from killing chickens or cows. He exposes the terrible cruelty which is inevitable in producing meat, but which most of us (me included) try to pretend doesn’t happen. And he concludes, like me, that for many many reasons the right thing to do is to go veggie.

Maybe I can compare giving up eating meat to giving up smoking. It is very hard at the beginning. The temptation to lapse back to the bad old habits, to give in to peer pressure. Sometimes people seemed almost scared to see me do the right thing in case it left them exposed. Often people want to find a reason to justify their habits, rather than having to change.

Here in Cambodia it’s actually quite easy to go veggie. There are good supplies of delicious fruit and veg, cereals and nuts, even in most rural areas. If you want to eat eggs they are everywhere, and you can often find milk or soya products like various tofu if you want.

And you won’t be alone! I have never met as many vegetarians as here in the VSO community in Cambodia. I love to go out to eat in lots of meat-free restaurants in Phnom Penh and Siem Riep. My friend from home also posts me trashy women’s mags and it’s reassuring to read that so many celebrities are role modeling by being veggie.

This photo shoot took place in Carols house.

But as I say, I don’t want to preach, and I don’t have all the answers. For example, I love animals, most of all the gorgeous kittens I adopted. But cats, unlike us, can’t live happily without flesh. Yet if I feed them meat or fish, I will be part of killing another creature. It makes me sad and uncomfortable, but I don’t know what else I can do. This is an ongoing dilemma for me.

Fortunately, we humans don’t have that problem – we can choose what we do. And all of us make a choice, every day, even if we try to ignore it – either we eat meat, or we go veggie. For our love of other creatures, of ourselves, of our planet, it’s clear to me that I made the right choice. Why don’t you join me?

Thailand in April

katja-horsch — Fri, 29 Apr 2011 00:00:00 GMT

OMG. Did I say in my last blog that we are going to Thailand to escape the madness from Cambodia over Khmer New Year? Well, we didn't really expect THIS for Thai New Year! Pure Madness!

We started our journey form Siem Riep where we then booked a bus to take us to the border in Poipet. There we walked over the border, along the huge casinos in no-mans-land.
Then it was a rather comfortable mini van ride to Bangkok. It took all day though and we arrived in Bangkok after sunset.
We booked us into a little Guest House (LampuHouse, recommendable), which is basically not far from the well known party street: Khor San Road.

our guest house in Bangkok

Already when we arrived, there was no way of staying dry.
People, tourists and locals, were pouring buckets of water over every pedestrian or were involved in heavy water pistol fights. Gosh, everyone had a water pistol. And of course no small ones, no giant ones!

madness on Kroh-San street

tourists with water pistols

On our first stroll at night we not only got dripping wet, but also marked in our face, arms, clothes, everywhere, with a paste made of flour and water. I got really angry when they threw a bucket of ice cold water at Oli still with a can of beer in it which hit him hard on his back.

wet, smeared and hurt by this bottle of Heinecken

no one stays dry

During the night I got sick. D+V for 24 hours, the worst I ever had. I suspect it came from something I ate at the border.
I ordered Oli to get me a course of Antibiotics and so after 3 days I was more or less fit again. So we did some sightseeing in Bangkok and what I saw was really impressive. I really liked Bangkok, apart from the water madness!

one of many Thai spirit houses on the street

a giant checked duck

Island dance in Bangkok

she was from Maui

the strong lads

So we did travel on the river, rode the sky-train

waiting for the Sky train

visited the Royal Palace, ate delicious food and even met Tom Cruise!

who is more handsome...

at the impressive Royal Palace in Bangkok

my new hat especially bought for visiting the Royal Palace

the air smelled of perfumed candle oil and incent sticks

she had hair that reached to her knees

making little sand castles

blessing the Buddas on Thai New Year

the biggest Budda in South-East Asia apparently

After 3 days we took the bus to Pattaya. Of the party crowd had to follow us from the capital and it actually got worse. Whole trucks full of water drove along the streets with people on it, ready to give you the full blast with big water pipes.

also a victim of getting blessed

Fortunately we booked ourselves into a lovely and quiet little bungalow resort and we could really relax once we were there.

at least some privicy in Le-Prive

there was an Elephant shower

nice pool.. all to ourselves

at least some beautiful Thai art

But the actual reason we came to Pattaya was for me to do the bungee jump. So on Saturday afternoon we got picked up and brought to "Jungle Bungee jump".

Looking forward to it...

OMG, do I really want to do it?

I payed my 2000 Baht and then went to the jump teacher. He took my weight and then put really tight bandages around my lower legs. They were so tight that it really hurt!

putting it so tight that it hurt

It all went very fast and I mean it is not difficult to know what to do when you do Bungee jumping but I must say at this point I felt a little nervous.
Never the less, I got up and hoppled towards the lift.

very very tight bandages around my calves which saved my life

you could also choose the option of dipping your fingertips into the pool

The crane was 60 meter high and as soon as I realised that this is for real now, I was already on my way up.

up it goes!

looking still forward to it!

Up there, it was quite windy. Nice view, looking down no problem. I could see Oli with the camera, taking a video of me.

nice view from the top of the crane

ok, I'll do it!

not so sure anymore...

But then it kicked in. Jumping down? Blimey, I felt a little trapped as I knew now there is no way back. The palms of my hands got really sweaty, my mouth got so dry! And the guy with me just said now I count until 3 and then you let yourself fall forward. Easy!
It took me another 3 minutes up there to overcome my fear but then I thought that Oli is waiting and the battery of the camera might run out soon and I thought that I have trust in this rope that is tied around my legs and nothing will happen. So I just let myself fall down.

ahhhhhh!

juchhu!

It was a terrifying experience. I still can feel it when I am writing now about it. It doesn't take long though. But it is such a relief when the rope caught up and I started to bounce up and down. It really felt good.

what a feeling!

achja!

Then after hanging for a little while upside down they got a long stick and I grabbed it and they pulled my down and onto a mattress. There I lay and couldn't stop laughing.

I want to do it again!

I am so glad it all went well...

yes, landed safely

It really gave me a confidence boost. I feel like I can do everything now, because I was brave enough to do a bungee jump.

This is the evidence!

After all this adrenaline-high, we still hadn't got enough and threw ourselves in the evening into the never stopping party crowd at the well-known 'Walking-Street'.

the (famous?) Walking Street in Pattaya

There, we drank ice-cold vodka in a bar which was freezing and full of ice-blocks

say Prost in the Ice-bar with ice-cold vodka shots

freezing cold in there!

, we witnessed brutal Thai-Kick Boxing and afterwards some snake action that made me scream

first Thai Kick boxing, then crazy snake action!

and I made Oli smoke Chicha

what will your parents say...

smoking Hubbly-Bubbly

and afterwards a Rodeo ride

Yes, and Oli was brave enough to do the Rodeo!

. The long evening faded out in a dodgy cocktail bar with some football on.

Thai beer, good!

recovery time

Oli's favourite book on this holiday

Pattaya also had a beach and some good ice-cream. Otherwise I hope to go to some nicer places once we are in Thailand again.

My 30th Birthday in Cambodia

katja-horsch — Sun, 27 Mar 2011 00:00:00 GMT

under all circumstances, stay calm!

Well, first of all we had a study tour from the RTC Stung Treng at the end of February. A few Clinical Instructors and Preceptors preferred to go to Kampot to see the Referral Hospital and Regional Training Centre there. So after some organisation and preperation off we went.
It was my first time in Kampot and the first time to do a study tour too.
Basically one day to travel there, one day to spend and exchange information one day travel back.
All in all it was interesting but not particularly brilliant as most of the study tour participants were more interested in going to the Zoo, buying lobster and crabs, enjoying the seaside and singing Karaoke then asking intelligent questions when they had the opportunity.
But apparently a study tour in Cambodia is a 'party tour'. Good that I know that now.

Preceptors and Clinical Instructors in Kampot Hospital + Anja, Carol and me

funders of student dormitory in Kampot

lunch with Mr. and Mrs. Chan Tol

Carol and Mr. Chan Tol dig into the sweet and sour grapefruit

Cambodian bananas

infront of the Zoo in Kampot

Carol enjoys a cup of fresh sugar cane juice

Mr. Chan Tol, the Vize director of the RTC Stung Treng

Mr. Sophany is dozing in the afternoon sun

Sugar cane and fish in plastic bags at the road side

On the way back, of course we stopped in Kep and admired the Cambodian mermaid.

Hey Carol!

Carol and me in Kep

19 people in the mini bus, on the way back

Back in Phnom Penh, Oli and I met and mostly he did some work while I was finishing my application forms for the UK. In the evening we had fun, here are some picutures when Ant was also in PP and really wanted to know it that night. We went to the Riverside dancing.

I mean, lets cycle out!

Lets go out!

Ant wanted a good time and had a good time!

a few Tequillas later

at the Riverside in Phnom Penh

Then came my birthday weekend and Oli surprised me with a wonderful time. It was also in Kampot where we were going and it was called: Nataya - Round House Coral Reef Resort. I thought I've landed in paradise!

everything was so nicely decorated...

Oli infront of our little house which had an outside bath tub!

after the pool started the beach immediately

the pool was amazing

our round house

two cuties

the stunning infinity pool

dawn at the end of the pier

I've got you!

it was so beautiful there!

I want to stay here...

while Oli was counting my laps.

I practised my swimming...

caught in the act

we enjoyed the pool very much

some plastic we found at the beach

beautiful shells we found

at the pool

Oly was much better in playing bowles then me

along the beach

me and my birthday present

with the view onto the pier

this frog was dead

the birthday dinner

do I look like a 30year old one?

nice shirt!

who would like to have a piece?

mmhh, birthday sponge cake!

my birthday sponge cake was tasty!

Yum, Chips and salad sandwich for breakfast!

When I returned after this wonderful birthday weekend which Oli made so special for me, I discovered that our puppies at my house in Stung Treng grew again a little. Here they are, the cuties!

my favourite was the black one, the only girl

why can't they stay so small?

at this stage you can do with them whatever, even putting them into a plastic sive

3 weeks old

4 cuddly puppies

the proud mum

our new chickens behind the house

It would be lovely if they wouldn't kill the chickens at some point...

My Hugsy also is a proper kitten now, on the way to a fully grown big boy. Only a month ago I found out that Hugsy is a boy, not a girl as I initially thaught. That made me happy in terms of family planning.

Oh Hugsy, you are so cute!

And look into the lens...

Yes, he's a real model cat!

this glibber is a cambodian dessert, very sweet

Looks like worms

My Rambo enjoys a cuddle

my big boy

I think I get slightly obsessed with my cats

Rambo likes to sleep on my bed

in the morning after my run, I grabbed Rambo and took this picture

and guess, who is this?

brother love - Rambo and Hugsy

My Rambo and Hugsy cuddle together. They are so friendly with each other.

I also didn't want to miss out on a proper birthday party so I invited everyone from Stung Treng into my box to have a good time. Chantra especially appriciated the punch I made. We had a great time and I think I had too much punch...

Rach and Ant on the dancefloor

Luisa, Chantra and Maria

Myself, Carol and Wendy

Rachel and the handsome Hugsy

I've had 18 birthday guests up in my box!

Wendy and Ingran talking about the hospital?

It says 'Stung Treng'on it, Patricks new tatoo

I am in Stung Treng now for nearly 4 weeks and after all that time, it really becomes all a blur after a while. Every day is the same. No stimulants here. My DVD player on my laptop stopped working finally (I can be thankful that my laptop works that well still anyway) so I have plenty of time to read books or to tidy my room or cook rice or change my nail colour or teach Reak-smey computer, but it is like boring. So I am so much looking forward to go into the big city this weekend, I can't wait! Partly because Oli will be there too and I am doing the Mekong River Swim on Sunday.
(Charity supported by the MRS 2011: this year The Swim Team has chosen to
donate all profits to supporting the rebuilding of a primary school in Rikuzentakata which is a town located in Iwate prefecture, Japan. Rikuzentakata was reported to have been “wiped off the map” by the tsunami following the Tohoku earthquake earlier this month. According to police, every building smaller than three stories high has been completely flooded. The town’s tsunami shelters were designed for a wave of 3-4m in height, but the tsunami of March 2011 created a wave 15m which inundated the designated safe locations. Local officials estimate that 20-40% of the town’s population is dead. Although the town was well prepared for earthquakes and tsunamis and had a 6.5m high seawall, it was not enough and more than 80% of the 80,000 houses were swept away.
Through links we are setting up between iCAN British International School and educators in Rikuzentakata, we will be fundraising to help rebuild one of the local primary schools. Any profits from the MRS 2011 will be donated to this cause. If any registered swimmers or spectators would like to donate additional funds on the Swim morning or after the event, then please contact The Swim Team at mekongriverswim@yahoo.com.)

If I wouldn't have my cats and my lovely family, I suppose I would get bonkers here on my own. But it is so good to have other volunteers here too. Although at the end of the day, everyone is on it's own here.

me and Touch, the hair stylist

Cambotschanischer Haarstyle

Soon we have Khmer New Year soon ( 14.-17.04) and that means Happy Happy and holiday for everyone. Oli and I have planned to go to Thailand to escape the madness here but there is no escaping as it will be Thai New Year as well. But for me it will be the first time and I have planned to do a bungee jump, to get it out of my system. More details about that in my next blog! Be exited!

Lots of love from your Katja!

visitors from Germany

katja-horsch — Mon, 14 Mar 2011 00:00:00 GMT

oh nein, Mittelgang und kleine Plastestuehle obwohl wir Fahrkarten haben...auf dem Weg von ST nach Kratie...

The other very exiting thing that happend before Doerti and Ines arrived was: meeting the parents! Oli's parents came to visit him for about 3 weeks and they travelled around a lot.

Oli with his parents infront of the Pavillion

They even helped Oli and Alison cleaning the hospital beds in Thmar Pouk hospital for an Infection Control assessment. It was lovely meeting them. We had a day together before the girls arrived and we visited the Royal Palace and we went to Toul Sleng.

Oli, Phillida, David and myself eating lunch in "Friends"

I am very much looking forward to see them again in Summer.

also wie kommen wir noch mal nach Thailand?

on Monivong Boulevard in Phnom Penh

in the Royal Palace, cool shorts!

And then on the 30th of January in the evening, they finally arrived. Tired, in winter clothes, full of luggage. But very happy too. I couldn't believe it. They were there, here in Cambodia together with me! I was also so happy and in shock for a while as I just could not get it. We then went back to the Pavillion where we met the others for a drink and then we went to bed.

The next morning, we had breakfast together

ein herrliches Fruehstueck im Pavillion

and then we went to see the Royal Palace.

Chum-Riep-Sur, wir sind die beiden bong-sreys!

and CHEESE!

After lunch

zum Mittag gab's Vietnamesische Nudelsuppe

we walked over to the National Museum.

beim National Museum in Phnom Penh

ja ja, der Jet-lag!

On the next day, we got a cyclo to see first Toul Sleng and then the Russian Market.

Doerti in her cyclo

Ines arrives at the Russian market in her cyclo

The Cambodian Anne Frank (younger a witness and older a writer)

a little refreshment please!

In the evening we were able to pick up our " Khmer Princess" Photos!

And then, we took the minivan up to Stung Treng. We arrived early in the morning, so that we had time, to visit the orphanage in Thalla Borivat. Caro who also lives and works here in Stung Treng showed us around.

fuer das Waisenhaus sammelt Doerti auf ihrer Geburtstagsparty Spenden

das Waisenhaus in Thalla Borivat

der brandneue Brunnen!

Caro von Beebob hat uns rumgefuehrt

Waesche waschplatz am Waisenhaus

Caro und Ines auf dem Weg zurueck von Thalla nach ST im selbstgebauten Tuk-Tuk

Mami hat mir leckere geschmolzene Yogorette geschickt!

A bunch of German and Austrian people have moved recently to Stung Treng and support the orphange. The project is called Beebob. Doerti and Ines thought of the orphans and brought a lot of toys and sweets for them. The kids were very greatful.

Doerti did a birthday party for her 30th birthday and raised more then $300 for this orphanage. It was good for her to see it. Read more about it on: http://beebob-hilfe.de

In the afternoon, we visited the hospital and Doerti and Ines handed over the toys, they brought for the poor children there.

after delivering the toys at the pediatric ward, Dr. Ingran was very happy about that, and even more happy were the children!

Then came the night. Both stayed in my house because they wanted to. I think for them it was the most horrible night. Doerti and me slept in my little bed together while Ines slept on the floor. I think the worst thing was the bathroom for them. But in the end they did it and can be proud of themselves. But no wonder that they agreed to move on the next day already to Kratie.

In the morning, I showed them first my RTC.

auf dem Weg zu meinem Haus

eigentlich haette ich da auch noch raufgepasst

ein Snack und ein Chat mit Nari im RTC

Hebammenstudenten bereiten sich auf die Pruefung vor

Doerti und Ines auf dem Gelaende des RTC's in Stung Treng

auf dem Weg zur Busstation in Stung Treng

Busticket gekauft. Jetzt muss der Bus nur noch kommen.

auf den Bus nach Kratie haben wir nur 2 1/2 Stunden warten muessen

After a not so nice bus ride, we just about arrived for the spectacular Kratie sunset. With a little bit of luck, we also got a room in the "Balcony".

the sunset in Kratie is all the hussle worth it

I don't take drugs!

unser kleines Nest in "the Balcony" - 3 in einem Bett

ein schoener Ausblick zum Fruehstueck

The next day, we went over by boat to the other side of the river where there is a desert like sandy beach, now that it's dry season.

einmal uebern Fluss rueber

Kuckuck!

uebers Wasser mit diesen jungen Bullen

auf der anderen Seite des Flusses, in der Trockenzeit eine Wuestenlandschaft

Doerti unter Palmen

baeuerliche Idylle

laufen oder radeln? Laufen, alle Fahrraeder sind schon vermietet.

wo ist der Deinhard?

how idyllic

waiting for the boat to bring us back

It was a particularly hot day.

In the evening we moved from the balcony to Abi's house. She kindly offered us accommodation for one night as the balcony didn't have any more rooms for us.

Rocky was born in my room in Stung Treng but lives now in Kratie with Abi.

look how big Rocky Lobster is!

In the afternoon, we did a trip to the rapids of Kampi and the dolphins. Because of Chinese New Year, the place was packed. It was like a Volksfest.

In Kratie, we stayed with lovely Abi

Kampi near Kratie - the retreat for Khmer people

Ines had also a little dip in the water

the rapids in Kampi - the clearest water I've seen so far

of course you have to dip in with your clothes on!

Chinese New Year celebrated in Kampi by Khmer people rather excessive

we met Hacki and the others there

We then choose the sunset to look at the dolphins. It was absolutely beautiful.

da ist wieder einer!

Sunset in Kratie over the Mekong - the red sun falling...

die Sonne ist fast untergegangen

wir haben ein paar Delphine ganz nah gesehen

And then, we went to Siem Riep. I was surprised about myself how good my Khmei was when I was arguing with a Khmer guy at a bus stop in the middle of nowhere where we had been dropped by our minivan half way through the journey. Anyway, we got there in the end, but again not in the most comfortable position.

juckel, juckel - ein voller Bus von Skun nach Siem Riep - sehr unbequem

We stayed one night in Smileys, where we met up with Oli.

mein Dolphin Boy, the one and only!

In the evening, we went out for a drink and we hit the Karaoke place.

girls just wanna have fu-un...

ok, ich trink auch einen Gin&Tonic

my sweetylein

the happiness is visible in my face I think

im Karaokeschuppen in Siem Riep

The next day, we checked in to the 'Terrasse des elephants' and went shopping!

Doerti und Ines in Smilys mit Lucky

auf dem Markt in Siem Riep

und was fuer ein schicker Hut das ist!

ok, also, zwei gruene, drei blaue, vier gelbe und zwei rote T-shirts...

mondaen und tres chique unsere Doerti!

relaxen am Pool auf der Dachterrasse Terrasse des Elephants

Oh, sa-at!

along the river in Siem Riep, looking for some food!

So viele tausend Riel!!!

Ines Bwwwwwww-Spiel hat uns viel Spass gegeben

Doerti liest das Buch: Hurra - Endlich Nichtraucher!

our little hide-away balcony

We've been to the Temple Bar and seen the traditional Apsara dancing.

Apsara dancer in Temple bar

yes, for me it's the last time in the Temple bar too

Ines has her dress changed at the local tailor

this Chinese cat waved at me all the time!

waiting for the adjustments in a red robe

Kambotschanisches Fruehstueck mit westlichem Einfluss

soviel Reis, da kann man sich garnicht entscheiden!

We've also participated in a cooking class which was very nice. The food we cooked was divine.

Ready Steady Cook!

immer ordentlich stampfen!

eine kleine Kochfee

here are our fresh and fried spring rolls, mango salad, vegetable amok and chicken curry, all handmade!

this is how to make proper curry paste!

our green bean and pumpkin desert with sago

what you need for Cambodian cooking!

Ines made us get up in the dark to see the sunrise over Angkor Wat. It was at first very difficult to get up, but then like always, it was all worth it.

Morgenstimmung in Angkor Wat

wir waren fast die einzigen ganz oben auf Ankgor Wat, als die Sonne aufging

the misty morning at Angkor Wat

a unique experience

It was worth it to get up so early.

Ueber Bayon geht die Sonne auf

na? K.O.?

at Ta Prom

Dschungel Temple Ta Prom

on the way up to the underwater carvings

Ines and Doerti at the waterfall which has very little water compared to rainy season

a fallen butterfly : (

Love it here!

Im Nordwesten von Kambotscha gibts noch dichten Dschungel

on the way to Spean Kaball

We had an amazing day at Angkor Wat and much more pictures where taken. I suppose for me it was also the last time to hang around there.

cocktail night in Siem Riep, yes please!

uh! Lady!

Ines likes her ice-cream!

a last 'Cafe tuk-tuk ko tuk-gkor'

They were here and we had a fantastic time. I'd wish, they could come back next weekend!!!

a new year

katja-horsch — Tue, 25 Jan 2011 00:00:00 GMT

me and a boy, who was collecting all the empty beer cans from under the table

It feels a long time now, beeing here in Cambodia. Not that I don't like it anymore, but I must admit, I feel ready for new adventures. And this year will be the year of big decisions and unpatiently as I am, I want everything to happen immediately!
My midwifery applications have been sent and now it is up to crossing fingers and hoping, that I will get a place.
I also completed my IELTS (international english language testing system) in Phnom Penh and got a 7.5, which is more then I ever dreamed of!
Now I enjoy the beauty of this country and try to finish my VSO placement successfully. I still have a few months to go though, until July.

The Wedding season is still in full blast and the other day, Linda, Carol, Rachel and myself gave everything and went especially to a beauty salon here in Stung Treng to get the full make up and hair do. I also wore my new dress which I bought the material for at the market. The tailor did a wonderful job for only 50.000 Riel!

Yes, we are ready for a wedding!

So we were invited to go to Lindas Translators Brothers Wedding. And Oli came also as we had to celebrate our 1-year-together.

the lovely boys

the bride

Ingran the paediatrician and Jan

Dani and Rachel

smile and say: cheer - moi!

the new stung trengers Thea and Jan from the Netherlands

Linda and Carol

at khmer weddings, the main drink is beer

fortunately we ate beforehand!

The VSO delegation from Stung Treng (some)

Also Touch, one of my "sisters", went to a wedding in typical ott khmei style.

next year it will be her own.

Touch on her way to a wedding.

My little Hugsy is getting bigger now and fortunately, after her cat mother abondened her, she found her new best friend in Rambo, who plays gently with her. Rambo and Tilda are big strong boys now who love to run around but also they like the company of humans.

My big boys

Tilda and Rambo

she's so cute!

Hugsy had for a long time a cold

Hugsy likes the sun, like me

I love them to bits, although I am trying to give them to other volunteers. But to my surprise, no one would like to look after a cat. Nearly all of them live in big houses all on their own but don't want a little animal they could have fun with.

When Oli was here, we spend a few days along the river near the Laos border at a place called: Bird sanctuary. We were at my home too, but given the circumstances that we are never really alone there, it was a nice change, having a bungalow to ourselves.

Happy paddling!

the sandy beaches along the Mekong...

and I say, pink is your colour!

from our balcony

This month is also full of other celebrations, for example on the 7th of January we celebrated the Victory over the Genocide regime. In my local pagoda (Wat Luer) was disco and on our way from town, Oli and I got sucked in into a binge drinking party at this pagoda, with my "sisters" and friends from the restaurant where I live. We didn't want to be the fun-break, so we drank a little with them and I even danced for the first time in the crowd of mainly children infront of the big blasting speakers.

this was around 10pm, for Stung Treng really late already

Rek-smey and a 'friend'

Touch and her fiancee, wedding next year!

a cook from the restaurant

ok, we might have some beers as well then...

Peach and a 'friend'

The next day, we had Ban Sum at the market for breakfast and then Oli had to leave again for the North- West.

eating my favourite breakfast, which I could eat every day...

Oli doesn't like Jackfruits, guss why!

and unfortunately the meat stands too...

fresh tofu every day we have!

fresh vegetables, mmhhh

a khmei advert for cigaretts

our Tofu lady in Stung Treng market

Dani, Lindas Translator, got a scholarship to go to Korea. This is a fantastic achievement and most Khmer people only dream of this opportunity. But she made it. So we had a little goodbye party for her.

good luck Dani!

me, Thea, Ingran, Luisa, Ferdi, Linda, Jan, Maria, Dani and Carol

Soon Chinese New Year, Buddhas Birthday and Khmei New Year are coming up. More to celebrate and be happy. Most important, the meeting of the parents and the visit from Doerti and Ines in February. And my 30th in March! It is all very exiting.

I hope that all my friends at home are well. Take good care until I see you next at some point this year!!! x k

South-Africa / Cape Town

katja-horsch — Tue, 04 Jan 2011 00:00:00 GMT

2 Weeks, my Oli and I spent in South Africa at the end of December. It was a family reunion with my sister and brother in law and my adorable two nieces as well as an interesting insight to Africas most popular tourist destination.

view onto Cape town city from the bottom of Table mountain

Cape Town (Afrikaans: Kaapstad) is the second-most populous city in South Africa, and the largest in land area, forming part of the City of Cape Town metropolitan municipality.

My first thoughts of going to Africa where, that I wanted to see it considering our future plans, to work there at some point. But what we saw and experienced was actually no poverty, no littered streets. It felt very cosmopolitan and nearly european.

mmmhh, where is the way to the pub?

Located on the shore of Table Bay, Cape Town was originally developed by the Dutch East India Company as a victualling (supply) station for Dutch ships sailing to Eastern Africa, India, and the Far East. Jan van Riebeeck's arrival on 6 April 1652 established the first permanent European settlement in South Africa. Cape Town quickly outgrew its original purpose as the first European outpost at the Castle of Good Hope, becoming the economic and cultural hub of the Cape Colony. Until the Witwatersrand Gold Rush and the development of Johannesburg, Cape Town was the largest city in South Africa.

We've stayed with Antje and John and the girls in John's grandmothers house which was absolutely beautiful and so relaxing.

This is in the stunning garden.

... and this too!

That was ideal. It was based a little outside Cape Town City Centre, in Constantia, a suburban area. We had nearly all meals in that garden when the weather allowed it.

and now a cup of Roibush tee...

and everybody is asking, where are your socks, Oli?

Hallo Oma und Opa!

We had mostly warm sunny weather, but compared to Cambodian weather, it was changing every day. It was a nice change actually, although I still very much prefer the warmth.

Capetown is the provincial capital and primate city of the Western Cape, as well as the legislative capital of South Africa.
Today it is one of the most multicultural cities in the world, reflecting its role as a major destination for immigrants and expatriates to South Africa. As of 2007 the city had an estimated population of 3.5 million.

at the "Cape to Cuba" Restaurant in Kalk Bay

The city is famous for its harbour as well as its natural setting in the Cape floral kingdom, including such well-known landmarks as Table Mountain and Cape Point. It is hailed as one of the most beautiful cities in the world as officially recognised by Forbes. National Geographic has also listed Cape Town as one of the most iconic cities on the planet and "Places of a Lifetime".

sorry, forgot the name of this beach, but it was stunning!

And we've seen it all.

with the Table Mountain in the background

we're going to the beach!

the cold of the water was cutting into my feet

picknick with the sunset

real surfers!

unfortunately, also this moment didn't last forever

I think we must have visited all of Cape Town's beaches, which are popular with local residents. Due to the city's unique geography, it is possible to visit several different beaches in the same day, each with a different setting and atmosphere. Though the Cape's water ranges from cold to mild, the difference between the two sides of the city is dramatic. But still, the water on both sides was freezing!

sorry, name forgotten, but it was beautiful!

that sun was hot!

yes, definetely a dolphin man!

Both coasts are equally popular, although the beaches in affluent Clifton and elsewhere on the Atlantic Coast are better developed with restaurants and cafés, with a particularly vibrant strip of restaurants and bars accessible to the beach at Camps Bay.

We were very active, no problem when you are with John, and they showed us the most amazing places.

I can't decide who's cuter...

After a lovely morning spending time walking and talking, they saluted us off from the waterfront to take the boat to Robben Island, which is 10-kilometeres from the city. Here, future President of South Africa and Nobel Laureate Nelson Mandela and future South African President Kgalema Motlanthe, alongside many other political prisoners, spent decades imprisoned during the apartheid era. Including current South African President Jacob Zuma who was imprisoned there for ten years.

Nelson Mandela's cell

In one of the most famous moments marking the end of apartheid, Nelson Mandela made his first public speech in decades on 11 February 1990 from the balcony of Cape Town City Hall hours after being released. His speech heralded the beginning of a new era for the country, and the first democratic election was held four years later, on 27 April 1994.

Oh we had lots of fun with the kids!

baking Olis favourite chocolate cake..

pulling the "sleigh" down the hill and pretend that their is snow..

Of course South-Africa is also very famous for their wines!There are hundreds of different wines, all produced in different locations of the winelands. We visited two of them. One was Constantia and the other one was in Stellenbosch.

The day in Stellenbosch was very special,because one of Johns friend took us all and drove us around. First of all we went to a bird rescue centre where we also saw cheetahs.

Then we had a marvellous picknick at a river nearby one of the wine yards.

John and the kids cool down in the nearby river.

We had to do a wine tasting to compare with the wine from Constantia.

at the end, we bought a bottle of delicious Delheim Rose wine

together with Etienne, Sally and Francois.

in the morning, we decorated our christmas tree

Bescherung war am naechsten Morgen

We had a fantastic day on the 24th of December, which is our german christmas. Firstly, we went to see the Cape Fur Seal colonies on Seal and Duiker Islands.

can you see the seal already?

all of them made a very happy impression

Then we picknicked for lunch

what a nice picknick spot this is!

and then went on to see Cape Point.

Cape Point is recognised as the dramatic headland at the end of the Cape Peninsula. We drove along Chapman's Peak Drive, a narrow road that links Noordhoek with Hout Bay, for the views of the Atlantic Ocean and nearby mountains. It was beautiful. We stopped at another beach,

before we finally reached the Cape of Good Hope.

ostriches along the coast

hey, there is a Baboon in the way!

There, we enjoyed the sunset in beautiful surrounding.

Someone was paricularly keen on the Pringels...

English Christmas Day we spent with Johns family at Betsy's Bay.

It was a lovely relaxed slightly tipsy day.

Boulders Beach near Simon's Town is known for its colony of African penguins. I think going there was one of my defenite highlights.

Finally, Antji and me had also some time together and we spent it wisely.

Then we split up for the last 3 days. Antji and John wanted it more rural for New Years Eve while me and Oli stayed and discovered more in Cape Town City.

The city has several notable cultural attractions.

The Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, built on top of part of the docks of the Port of Cape Town, is the city's most visited tourist attraction.

It is also one of the city's most popular shopping venues, with several hundred shops and the Two Oceans Aquarium.

Nobel Square in the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront features statues of South Africa's four Nobel Peace Prize winners - Albert Luthuli, Desmond Tutu, F. W. de Klerk and Nelson Mandela.

Since 1994, the city has struggled with problems such as HIV/AIDS, tuberculosis, a surge in violent drug-related crime and more recent xenophobic violence. At the same time, the economy has surged to unprecedented levels due to the boom in the tourism and the real estate industries.
In the 1948 national elections, the National Party won on a platform of apartheid (racial segregation) under the slogan of "swart gevaar". This led to the Group Areas Act, which classified all areas according to race. Formerly multi-racial suburbs of Cape Town were either purged of unlawful residents or demolished. The most infamous example of this in Cape Town was District Six. After it was declared a whites-only region in 1965, all housing there was demolished and over 60,000 residents were forcibly removed.
Many of these residents were relocated to the Cape Flats and Lavender Hill. Under apartheid, the Cape was considered a "Coloured labour preference area", to the exclusion of "Bantus", i.e. blacks. We visited the District Six museum, which was very interesting and very well done.

Cape Town is noted for its architectural heritage, with the highest density of Cape Dutch style buildings in the world. Cape Dutch style, which combines the architectural traditions of the Netherlands, Germany, France and Indonesia, is most visible in Constantia, the old government buildings in the Central Business District, and along Long Street.

Very unfortunately, the Green-Point Stadium was closed that day...

people from SA call this cloud "Table cloth", laying on the Table Mountain

We found an amazing Ethiopian Restaurant which was a great experience to eat there.

it looks strange but it tasted delicious!

we had a coffee ceremony with popcorn!

One day we even took the train into town which was exiting. Before that, we had breakfast at the lovely Olimpia Cafe at Kalk Bay.

This beach is very popular and found on many postcards. It's St. James Beach

This man claimed to have 25 kg of eggs on his head. And he had a telephone...

But I tryed to call home and it didn't work. Instead he wanted money for the picture we took of him.

I really wanted to see some Whales and do a bungee jump, but both were not possible at the time. Southern Right Whales and Humpback Whales are seen off the coast during the breeding season (August to November) and Bryde's Whales and Killer Whale can be seen any time of the year.

Heaviside's dolphins are endemic to the area and can be seen from the coast north of Cape Town; Dusky dolphins live along the same coast and can occasionally be seen from the ferry to Robben Island and I have seen them at least from the distance.

Oli and John climbed up Table Mountain and had a great view. We wanted to meet them on top but the Cable Car wasn't going because of strong winds. We tryed it another time but it was again too windy.

we had a nice picknick though at the bottom of table mountain

So I haven't made it up the Table Mountain, but I don't mind. I had a fantastic time and had amazing new experiences. And that was it. Happy New Year 2011!!!!!!

at the airport in Johannesburg

a volunteers life...

katja-horsch — Thu, 09 Dec 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Volunteering overseas is great.
Apart from the homesickness and missing your loved ones and maybe missing out on important events back at home, it is for me the best time of my life.
It might be because I chose the right organisation (VSO) or because I chose to come to Cambodia. Whatever it is, it makes me very very happy every day.

a rainbow!

Now as time goes by very fast here, I experience the most extraordinary things and meet the most interesting people. I live and I can feel life and enjoy it to an extend, which I never felt before. I am very greatful to this mind-opening experience and I have learned a lot from it. With other words, I am dreading the day I am going home.
But fortunately I still have 6 months here before I travel back to Europe to find out, if I can cope or not.

Meanwhile, back in Stung Treng, Rambo and Tilda growing and growing closer to my heart...

maybe they are coming home with me?

my two boys

A local boy named Binyan started together with Rachel (VSO volunteer from Stung Treng), the first ever exercise classes in Stung Treng. Those classes are very popular all over the country. They are usually held at 5 am and 5 pm every day. I have seen them before in Kampong Cham and Phnom Penh, but even Kratie hasn't got them! Now, Stung Treng got a bit more modern because of that I would say. So far, I've managed to drag myself out of bed twice for the morning classes. But it mixed up my running patterns. So now I only go in the evenings at the weekends. It's great fun!

exercise class in Stung Treng

this is a local dish called: Njam Bay Chock - white noodle with green sauce and bananaflower

and another magnificent sunset over the Sekong river

afternoon light

Wat Luer

my road

Tom is going to a party

she's going with Papa, he will look after her at the party

the "restaurant baby"

And we had again our North-East volunteer meeting, this time combined with Ingrans housewarming party.

time to finish, no?

after our Stung Treng - Kratie Health meeting

the two neighbours Linda and Ingran

I hope Rek-smey had a little bit of fun at the barang party

the new german Stung Trengers Patrick, Josh and Caro

with Godfrey, Maria and Ingran

Chantra, Dani and Rek-smey

Mr. and Mrs. Dukes give their best

the germans in Cambodia!

We also started a guitar club in Stung Treng. After me, Carol and Ingran both got themselves also a guitar. Now we try to play regularly together. It's great fun.

The Stung Treng Guitar players Carol, Ingran and myself

my guitar

Last month, Oli and I went to the 4th annual Nursing and Midwifery Conference in Phnom Penh, where one of my teachers from the RTC gave a presentation. It was very exiting and he did well, although the conference was rather chaotic.

the official opening ceremony of the conference

Here we go, the Minister of Health

me and teacher Narem

The photographer was the best!

a mosque in the middle of Phnom Penh

Ja, ich habe auch mal wieder meinen Senf dazugegeben

the translator was funny...

Mrs. Sophany, Mr. Narem and myself at the Nursing and Midwifery Conference

David and Koehn knew a russian restaurant where we ate good food!

those pictures at Meta House made me feel homesick

In the evening, we went Lindy Hop Swing Dancing with Abi, Sarah and Ingran.

Because of the Waterfestival, we had a long weekend off, so Oli and me decided, to go to the beach.

I've made pretty horrible experiences with Shianouk ville, but nevertheless, Oli hadn't seen it.
So we went this time to Otres Beach. The quietest and most natural beach of all.

along Otres Beach

and now some pizza!!!

Our bungalow was just 15 metres from the beach away and simply lovely.

our beach hut, 15 meters away from the sea...

Yes, nearly paradise...

come in and snorkel with me!

Oli removes rubbish from the beach...

We spent 3 days there and had a wonderful time. The only thing that happend this time was that my sunglasses got stolen...

strange looking jelly-fish

VSO Cambodia makes us happy!

biking in Phnom Penh

and another phenomenal sunset infront of my house

Two weekends later, we went to Siem Riep to attend another conference, this time it had to do with Pro-Technical Work Groups for Health and the Annual Operational Plans.
We made the best of it.

for the big event, the streets were decorated

before the bike ride

To treat our sore muscles after the 30 km bike ride and the 10 km run the day afterwards, we chose our nest this time in the Terasse des Elephants.

this fountain was in our room, together with two bridges

on top of Terasse des Elephants

njam bay chenang!!!

fancy dinner at the poolside in Siem Riep?

The next day I really had to rush back, because we had a group of preceptors coming from Kampong Cham to do a Study tour in Stung Treng. We did the same thing several months before and now it was their turn. It was very successful again this time.

The Study tour group infront of the new Stung Treng Hospital

The director, Dr. Sovann and Mr. Narem

The RTC bus

The Study tour group from Kampong Cham infront of our RTC

The cat selling buisness doesn't go very well at the moment. Nobody wants a cat. If I would be offered, how could I say no to such cute fluff kitties?

3 weeks old kittens are just adoreable...

These are: Cuddles Shorttail and Hugsy Longtail

Sita sleeps at the bottom of my stairs

here is the proof, it's cat heaven!

Shortly after Srey-Niem gave birth, I called the vet and asked him to come with the contraceptive injection. Finally he came and Srey-Niem got the injection. It has to be repeated every 3 months.

Yes, and over christmas and New Year, Oli and I are going to South Africa to see Antje, John, Matilda and Sophia. Haven't seen John and the girls for 19 months now. It will be absolutely mindblowing...
So we can all look forward to a South Africa blog next time!
Lots of Love from your Katja!

Halloween, Boatrace and more kittens!

katja-horsch — Wed, 08 Dec 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Two best mates!

Oli's best friend Nick was in Cambodia for 3 weeks and when we met, we visited Angkor Wat together, where Berti also found freedom and peace for once.

Berti was a beautiful green pigion, who was rescued before going into the soup-pot at the restaurant where I live.

sometimes I feel like living in a zoo!

There were plenty more, but I noticed it too late and so Vandy could only safe him.

this is Berti!

It was the night before I went to Siem Riep to meet Oli and his best mate Nick.

Berti travelled from one side to the other side of the country the next day!

I decided quickly to take Berti with me as the House is full of cats and dogs and I thought maybe Smileys guestHouse would look after it in future. So I took Berti in a carrier bag on the bus and during the bus stops, I took him to the toilet, let him out and give him water.

But Smileys didn't want him. So Oli and me spent a night with him in our room together.

Nick found out about a Bird-Sanctury in Angkor Wat, so we decided to go there and hand Berti over to them.
First we visited Bantey Srey, then the amazing underwater carvings at Spean-Kaball until we finally reached the gate of the animal centre.

Bantey -Srey Temple

To our amazement, it was a Centre for Conservation of Biodiversity and more a Rescue Centre for abused and/or abondent animals. They took Berti and after a few days, they e-mailed me that Berti had fully recovered and they could reliese him back into the forest. They also mentioned that eating this kind of bird was illegal.

this one was kept together with chickens and has a broken wing

this one is a very rare stork, an amazing creature

this one was kept as a doll and was dressed and had nailvarnish and stuff

It was a very happy day for me, seeing Olis best friend in real for the first time and spending time together, all the beautiful scenerie, Davys Birthday and Berti was in good hands, maybe that's why the Halloween party in the evening was a little exessive?

to a nice evening!

the sexy kittens arrived!

This one is a particularly attractive tom cat!

Party on in "Angkhor What???"

Oh Dominique, hold me I think I need to go home now...where is Oli???

Meanwhile in Stung Treng, Vandy and Rek-smey opened their own sandwich buisness. They sell infront of the house every day from 5-9 pm. It's rather convenient for me as I like to eat bread a lot! So for dinner I have now every evening outside a white sandwich with spring onion, cucumber and gimchy. That is a Cambodian pickle made from ginger, onion, papaya, garlic, salt, sugar and lemon. I love to sit there after work and see the sunset. It's beautiful.

Yes, this is my daily Riverview!

Vandys sandwich stand

the Stung Treng Dragon boat crew were busy practising

these are the two new puppys. One died the other day when it was hit by a moto

Stung Treng evening light

Tilda is having a little snooze on my lap

Rambo likes the sattelite chair as much as I do

time for a nap

you are growing so fast...

my little Rambo!

dinner with the new volunteers Ingran, Jan and Thea

Workwise we were kept busy with doing a Midterm review of our project, having an annual partnership review and of course writing endless reports about our progess and plans.

Mr. Narem and Mr. Maradeth from the RTC

in our VSO office

The mid term review of our project

the RTC director and David

our project donated for new posters in the classrooms

Sambath the translator and Carol

only 2 dots?

The boat race this year was very well organised and great fun!

This years VSO boat crew in orange!

Soklaing and Oli

John, me and Oli, all pumped up and ready to win!

Number 210 was our boat

what a glorious day for a boat race!

paddling to the starting line

we didn't win but we made it over the finishing line eventually

The afterparty was at Equinox, here with Sarah, Ingran and Dave

Dom, Rach, Wim, Abi, Stevi and Sarah

Rach and Oli hit the dancefloor

And this is the newest addition to the household! Born on the 22nd of November and no idea who the father is...

and here are the 5 new kittens!

Finally, Dave reached the popularity he always wanted. His picture is now at one of the wonders of the world!

These pictures are now officially at Angkor Wat!

about how to deal with rubbish in Siem Riep

North-Vietnam

katja-horsch — Thu, 04 Nov 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Hanoi, the capital of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam, is an elegant city located on the banks of the Red River with tranquil Hoan Kiem Lake at its heart. North of the lake are the bustling streets of the Old Quarter (where we stayed), each street named after the trade that used to take place there.
Oli and I flew over for a weeks holiday at the beginning of October.

Phnom Penh- Vietienne-Hanoi

Much of the city was transformed by the French when it became a French protectorate in the 1880s and there are wide boulevards and large colonial buildings which are now home to government departments and foreign embassies.
Following years of rampant inflation, poverty and repression, the government introduced economic reform or doi moi in 1986, allowing people to own their own businesses. Now Hanoi has been totally transformed and visitors are entranced by the city and its residents. Recent years have seen an enormous increase in visitors and at peak times every hotel room in Hanoi is booked up, so prices have risen accordingly.
Teeming with culture, history, great restaurants and nightlife, Hanoi offers a fantastic introduction to Vietnam. And that's what we wanted and got.

We arrived late in the dark at our Hotel and were only able to have a little stroll along the busy streets and have some first impressions. Everything was decorated with beautiful fairy lights to start the big celebration of 1000 years Hanoi! The next day, we started exploring. First of all we went to the lake.

The lake is one of the major scenic spots in the city and serves as a focal point for its public life.

this girl came to Oli and wanted a picture with him

I also wanted to be in the picture!

to celebrate in style, we got some banners and stickers

Have you ever had "Wiesel-Coffe"?

According to legend, the Emperor Le Loi presented a magic sword, he had used in victorious revolt against the Chinese, to the Golden Turtle God (Kim Qui) of the lake - hence it's name.

The Tortoise Tower (Thap Rua) standing on a small island near the center of lake is linked to the legend.

the giant magic turtle

Since then, the lake previously called Ho Luc Thuy or Green Water Lake, became known as Ho Hoan Kiem, or The Lake of the Returned Sword.
Seven years ago, Duc named the reptile, estimated to weigh about 200 kg (440 lb), Rafetus Leloi in honor of the emperor.
So far this year, the turtle has appeared 78 times compared with 58 times for all of last year, the professor said. It emerges more frequently between October and March.

Near the northern shore of the lake lies Jade Island on which the Ngoc Son Temple (Jade Mountain Temple) stands. The temple was erected in the 18th century. It honors the 13-century military leader Tran Hung Dao who distinguished himself in the fight against the Yuan Dynasty, Jade Island is connected to the shore by the wooden red-painted Huc Bridge (Morning Sunlight Bridge).

lucky games around the lake

this woman got styled probably for a photo shoot

Oli infront of thousends of plastic flowers, looks good though

along the lake

our lunch, typical vietnamese PHO noodles

and for desert a luxurieous yogourth ice cream

giant film screens everywhere

Oly on stage singing his favourite song: Should old aquaintance be forgot...

In the afternoon, we visited the Water puppet theatre.
Mua Roi Nuoc or Water Puppet is a unique art which has it origin in the delta of the Red river in the tenth century. The farmers in this region devised a form of entertainment using what natural medium they can find in their environment. In ancient times, the ponds and the rice paddies after harvest were the stage for these impromptu shows. This art form is unique to North Vietnam and only finds its way to the world stage in recent years as a result of the normalized relation with the West. Today the Thang Long puppet troupe is the most well known in Ha Noi.

Modern, water puppetry is performed in a pool of water with the water surface being the stage. The puppeteers stand behind a screen and control the puppets using long bamboo rods and string mechanism hidden beneath the water surface. The puppets are carved out of wood and often weigh up to 15 kg. A traditional Vietnamese orchestra provides background music accompaniment. Singers of Cheo (a form of opera) with origin in north Vietnam sing songs which tell the story being acted out by the puppets.

The theme of the skits is rural and has a strong reference to Vietnamese folklore. It tells of day-to-day living in rural Vietnam and Vietnamese folk tales that are told by grandparents to their grandchildren. Stories of the harvest, of fishing and of festivals are highlighted. Legends and national history are also told through short skits. Many of the skits, especially those involving the tales of day-to-day living, often have a humorous twist.

lovely to go shopping in hanoi!

Traffic in Hanoi is very chaotic, even more then in Cambodia I had the feeling. Crossing a street is an experience in its own. There is a basic rule to cross a street you always have to follow: do not hesitate.
Do not wait for the traffic to stop, it never does. You have to start walking and continue on a steady pace. Motorbikes will avoid you. It takes some practice, but at the end of your stay you will be able to cross the streets without problems. You do have to be careful, because accidents do happen and the motorbikes are very fast...

busy streets

in the streets of Hanoi

cutting spring onions

wall grafitti

yes we had a lovely day!

Another good thing about Hanoi is, that is has nice beer.

Beer Hoi, fresh beer - delicious and cheep

Jo! means Cheers in Vietnamese.

unfortunately we had a lot of rain

on the way to Uncle Ho

The Ho Chi Minh Museum in Hanoi is a dedicated museum. It was built in memory of a great man whose name is written in golden alphabets in the history of Vietnam. The special person was a great revolutionary and statesman and went on to become first the Prime Minister and then the President of North Vietnam. The great man was none other than Ho Chi Minh. The common people of Vietnam are indebted to him for what he has done for his country and as a mark of their gratitude the museum was dedicated to him apart from a city and a mausoleum which also shares his name.
The Ho Chi Minh Museum in Hanoi is the preserver of everything memorable related to the great revolutionist, Ho Chi Minh. The Museum consists of five extensive floors and was inaugurated on 2nd September, 1990, celebrating the 100th birthday occasion of the beloved President. (This is what you get when you google Ho-Chi-Minh-Museum!)

everybody wants to see Uncle Ho

usually he's in there (the mausoleum), but was then travelling to Russia for repair work

Uncle Ho postcard

the entrance of the Ho-Chi-minh museum

pulling the beard?

Please read carefully...

a rather interesting exhibition about what happend in the time of Ho Chi Minh

at the temple on one stilt

Xian-Chau (means "hello"in Vietnamese)

a vietnamese family on holiday wanted to take a picture with us, why not?

everywhere was decorated in order to celebrate 1000 years hanoi

we found a tofu lady and had lunch on the street

Although communism is long gone, and the spirits of free enterprise flood the streets of Vietnam, there are still some symbols of the old regime. One of them is this statue of Lenin.

Goodbye Lenin!

the vietnamese girls really liked Oli, no surprise there...

Yo Lenin, Yo!

Nowadays Vietnam is one of the most corrupted countries in the world. There seems to be no limit to what money can buy here. Students have to pay if they want a good post. Even policemen have to pay in order to have a good destination. Democracy is still a forbidden word.

so that's where the V-sighn comes from...

Seen everywhere in Hanoi, Tube- Houses

The Temple of Literature (or Van Mieu) is one of Hanoi's highlights. The temple, an example of ancient Vietnamese architecture, was originally built in 1070 to honor scholars and literacy men. Soon after it became the country's first University. The names of its graduates were engraved on stone steles. Some of the tablets were lost. Those remaining are mounted on the back of stone turtles and enclosed on one side of the complex.

We were very lucky to find a photo-exhibiton there which was absolutely amazing.

at the temple of literature

Here are some of my favourite shots:

The next day we checked out of our nice hotel to get onto the bus to drive for 4 hours towards the North-West to get to the coast line of Ha Long Bay.
"Ha Long" is literally translated as "Bay of Descending Dragons." Ha Long Bay is a beautiful area with 1969 limestone islands jutting imposingly upon the skyline. Unfortunately the place is a tourist trap and the unique panorama is spoilt by a tremendous amount of "junks" which are in fact slimly disguised tourist boats that bear no resemblance to the authentic Chinese sailing vessels of the same name. These diesel-powered floating money-makers careen about the bay with casual indifference to safety as they bump and crunch against each other in a frenzy to drop their fares onto the obligatory island or floating shop before depositing the harried passengers back at Halong Bay dock feeling like they've been cheated out of their Dong, even if that isn't particularly true. The romantic setting is forever spoilt by the cattle-market mentality. Still... nice scenery.
And it was! For me it was an amazing trip because I've never experienced anything like it, I've never stayed over night on a boat before!

there she comes, our beauty

'Halongwonder"

our lunch on board

Then we visited Thien Cung Grotto and Dau Go Cave.

at the giant grotto

inside the grotto

the scenery was stunning...

fruit sellers at Halong Bay

Pineapple?

we are on a boat and in love...

could there be anything better?

kayaking at Halong Bay

it was raining, it was cold but it was great fun!

in the evening we sang karaoke before we went to sleep in our own cabin

Our sleep on board was actually interrupted by lots of rat action and noise. Apparently that is a good sighn the captain said the next morning. It means, that the boat is floating. Ah ja.
Our 2 day trip along Ha Long Bay ended by climbing up a rock and having a swim. It was absolutely amazing...

made it!

we had a great view from one of the tops of the rocks

after that climb, we need a swim!

our slightly crazy travel companions

From Ha Long Bay, we got back to Hanoi and got the Night-train to the very North of Vietnam, destination: Sapa.

the official Sapa-picture!

Located in Vietnam's remote northwest mountains, Sapa is famous for both its fine, rugged scenery and also its rich cultural diversity. Sapa is an incredibly picturesque village that lies in the Hoang Lien Son mountain range near the Chinese border in northwestern Vietnam, known as "the Tonkinese Alps". Sapa and its surrounding region is host to many hill tribes, as well as rice terraces, lush vegetation, and Fansipan, the highest peak in Vietnam.

big pigs!

somehow the rice plants looked bigger there then in Cambodia

Many ethnic minorities, such as the Hmong and the Dao, live in and around Sapa. Many older women in particular make items such as beautiful ethnic-style clothes and blankets, to sell to tourists.

curious locals

more curious locals

After visiting Vietnam, I am sure I am a giant.

general condition good, only one tooth is missing...

This elderly lady sold me this beautiful skirt.

very persistent though...

traditional clothes from Sapa and the different Ethnic groups

Children from these ethnic minorities begin to earn a living as soon as they are five years old. They often peddle small metal or silver trinkets, embroidered pillow cases and friendship bands in the main town, and they walk for about 3 hours from their villages to reach. Some of the "richer" ethnic women sometimes take a one-hour motorbike ride back to their villages at the end of the day.

so many nice things to buy...

but fortunately there is christmas soon, a good reason to buy...

and some earrings for me...

just need a little adjustment...

my top model!

don't worry, nobody will get this hat as a present.

What shall I buy I haven't got yet?

The thing we were warned about but of course not really taken into account was the weather issue. At this time of the year it is cold there. We have rolled into town on a glorious clear day but as soon as we drove higher up the mountains into Sapa town, we were nearly both days trapped in impenetrable fog. We didn't bring along warm clothes of course and fortunately the first day we had nice weather, but the second day for the main hike it was really cold and miserable. Our hotel didn't have efficient heating so I was really greatful to have a warm duvet and a hot shower, because I was nearly freezing to death at that point.

the next day it was very cold, misty and wet...

typical indigo coloured material hangs out to dry

Oli needed his chocolate fix...

the local hospital, looked closed and scary

ah a spider!

in one of the villages we passed on our hiking trip

the locals waiting to do more buisness with the tourists

this little one sells bracelts and walking sticks made of bamboo

we had a beautiful hiking trip through the mountains of Sapa

After we returned back to Hanoi again by night-train, we flew in the early morning hours back home. To Cambodia. When we arrived, it was lovely and warm. I could communicate again and everything felt familiar and good. I was glad to back. It was an amazing time in Vietnam and it was really exiting to discover a new country, but I must say, that nothing can beat my beloved Cambodia.

unbelievable but true, Dave made it to Cambodia!

katja-horsch — Thu, 14 Oct 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Dave was supposed to arrive in the evening of the 18th of September. Due to some confusion he missed his connecting flight from Bangkok and had to spend the night at the airport. Fortunately he got another flight so that I could pick up stinky Dave at Phnom Penh airport the next day. It was so lovely to see him! This blog is very long with lots of pictures. Dave brought a camera which he left for me, which is very generous. It then became his new toy to capture all the nice moments.We had such a great and happy time!

The first 2 nights we stayed in the Pavillion in Phnom Penh.

Breakfast at the Pavillion

Infront of the Pav

We explored the city and each time I have visitors from far away, I see Cambodia again with fresh eyes. Each time I kind of do the same things, but it's also always different again.

Phnom Penh City

Khmer dessert or pa-eim as we say

view into a small street in Phnom Penh were they watch boxing

Khmer street food

We've seen Wat Phnom with lots of monkeys jumping around and of course the old elephant, you can ride on. We didn't do that at the end because it was $20 per person!

a cheeky monkey at Wat Phnom

good old elephant finishing todays work at Wat Phnom

Then it was time for a happy hour coctail.

Singapore Sling is a must!

I'm having a femme fatale, Jacky Kennedy drank already there a few years ago...

at the Elephant bar in Raffles, enjoying a happy hour coctail

After that we had a good view from the FCC overlooking the riverside.

View from the FCC onto the Mekong in Phnom Penh

What on earth is this?

This is a banana-flower with young bananas on it!

The next day we went to see the stunning Royal palace in the morning.

I love this spot at the Royal palace!

you look so innocent!

lovely!

a green elephant!

view over the Royal palace

our reflection in the glass

In the afternoon we visited Toul Sleng (Genocide museum).

this is from an exhibition about shadow puppetry

the Independence monument in Phnom Penh at night

cup of tea in our garden bungalow

the central market in Phnom Penh

we are exhausted but happy..

so tired from exhausing travels up and down the country

The next day we travelled by bus to Stung Treng. That takes a long time and if you are together, you try to think of entertainment...

there are many ways on how to use your travel pillow...

the chin-supporter way

eating lunch at my "favourite place": in Skoun

In Phnom Penh I bought a guitar to refine my guitar skills during those long lonely evenings in Stung Treng. Dave stayed with Carol as my current place is not really suitable for visitors.

me, Dave, Linda, Carol and Anthony

In Stung Treng, Dave came with us to the RTC and did some computer fixing and helped me with some equipment from our donor.

eating Ban Sum for breakfast at the market

He also witnessed a mass swine-flu vaccination, when I showed him around Stung Treng Referral Hospital.

We ate at my house together with my family. They liked my big brother very much.

Rek-smey with her mum

me and Vandy

Dave with Touch and Rek-smey

the flower lady at Stung Treng market

In the evenings we met up with the other volunteers and Dave was a big hit with the ladies...

On the last day in Stung Treng, Dave also visited Mekong Blue, the Silk farm.

The next day we did the mammuth journey from the North-East to the North-West of the country.

We travelled over 12 hours to get to Siem Riep, where we met Oli.

After a long night of Karaoke, we headed to see Angkor Wat the next day.

this was my 4th time then that I have seen Angkor Wat...

We've seen Bantey Srey,

Tha Prom,

then we needed food and drink and a snooze...

Angkor Thom,

me and my darlings

the day was truly exhausting and hot...

and finally Angkor Wat,

where Davy lost his money belt with purse and passport inside. Fortunatley the tourist police was kind enough to hand it over after paying a nice bribe.

In Siem Riep, Davy discovered how much he liked the massages by the blind so that he had one each day until he went back to the UK.

Dave also discovered the foot skin eating fish and we enjoyed the traditional Apsara dancing.

We also had the previlege to swim in a very posh pool...

Finally, I made Dave donate Blood in the Angkor Hospital for Children. Thank you Dave, you might have saved someones life already! He found out about his bloodgroup for the first time and was very brave...Well done!

Dave with my friend and Student nurse Sareth

After a few days in Siem Riep, we travelled even further north west to the wild wild west Thmar Pouk where Oli lives.
Now, it is not that easy to get there. First of all we had to go by bus to Sissophon

the opera house

Oli got a picture promised by this artist for his new children ward in Thmar Pouk

and then we waited for more than 2 hours for a taxi to fill up to bring us up to Oli-village.
So we waited and waited...and took a lot of pictures...

Dave was also keen to get a flavour of the real rural Cambodia and so we combined fun with work.

Oli had a health promotion day at his hospital, done by other VSO volunteers and Dave was asked to support one event by playing the guitar with a guy called: Vomit, to play the "Toilet song".

We've seen the new Children Hospital

which needs decoration now.

and this photo was taken only a year before...

The next day, we said goodbye to the others and we travelled on from Thmar Pouk to Battambong by taxi and bus.

There we stayed over night in the Royal Hotel which was cheap and cheerful.

Very early the next day, we took the boat back to Siem Riep. That journey took about 6 hours and we travelled on the Mekong across the Tonle Sap.

that's how a toilet on a boat looks like

in the snake cave

the national art gallery

a painting hanging in the art gallery

Eventually we arrived back in Siem Riep.

We stayed there for one night and then made our journey back to Phnom Penh, by bus.

Back in Phnom Penh we went to the National (Natural) museum and also saw a film in Metahouse as well as an art exhibition.

We met Oli again

me and my darlings

David, a future VSO volunteer?

At our last night we went clubbing until Dave almost missed his flight back...

welcome on board!

My director Mr. Tek Leng Sou gives me my leaving present

me and my darlings

16 months here

katja-horsch — Tue, 14 Sep 2010 00:00:00 GMT

chum-riep-sur!

The kittens are 3 month now and the female one (Phia) is already in Kratie to start her new life with Abi. She has a new name now, called: Rocky Lobster, as far as I'm aware.

we are nearly 3 month old now!

The other two I am still in the process of "selling". Even wrote an article in our local volunteers magazine:

About cats and other bad luck

It is rare to find a female cat in a Cambodian household. Usually, as soon as female cat babies are born, they get killed by drowning or feeding them to the dogs or pigs. The same happens usually with female puppies.
The reason is that they just keep on producing more and more babies. As if it was their fault.
They also always have to hide in order to survive. As everyone knows, the dogs like to chase cats and usually once the dog has bitten the cat it hasn’t got a happy ending.

Rambo comforts Tilda

Phia

little Tilda...

If I think of my cat Pixi, who I left in England,
she had such an easy life. She had kittens twice, then got neutered by an expensive vet. She had all her regular check-ups and even a chip into her neck implanted so that she couldn’t get lost. A variety of cat food stood in front of her pink nose every 8 hours and she liked to laze around usually on the pillow of my bed (which she wasn’t actually allowed to lie on and she knew that exactly).

Here in Stung Treng I adopted a female cat who just happened to be around. She was especially attentive to me, because she was pregnant. Usually that happens in this situation. Cats are more lovingly and show you their love all the time.
Srey-Niem wasn’t different. So I felt the affection and started to give her attention too and I bought fish for her. Cambodian cats usually get a mix of three quarters rice and one quarter fish.
In addition they catch mice of course and if they really love you, they leave you a present. I wondered what the smell was in my room for 3 days, then I discovered a rotten mouse under my bed. The other day I nearly tread onto a mouse head left in front of my door and one day, I even had a dead gecko lying there.

little Phia...

so curious...

Yes I know you're looking for a nice home...

A cat pregnancy lasts around 65 days. When Srey-Niem went into labour, it was around 4.30 in the morning and she kept trying to crawl under my mosquito net. She was very demanding. I had a big plastic bowl with towels prepared for her, but she kept jumping up to my bed, even when the water was broken already. So I put her back into the bowl and stayed with her and witnessed the birth of 2 little kitten babies in the early morning hours. She didn’t give a noise away and she did it all by herself. It was amazing. Then I had to go to work and when I came back, there was another one. 3 newborn ginger kittens arrived and have now all their live ahead.

How will it be, I wondered? So far they have the best treatment and my Cambodian family is a little bit ashamed about it. Me, the barang buying fish for them at the market and bringing cat food from Phnom Penh, building a box for more protection, washing the towel they sleep on, building a cat toilet, filling the water bowl every day with fresh drinking water, giving them warm attention and play time. That is very unusual here as you all might know. What will the neighbors think?

very tired from so much playing...

Srey-Niem is about 3 years old and she has had kittens regularly. That means all the time. I’ve seen the last one’s just died away on starvation and disease. Nobody cared for them. For me that is a difficult thought.

I am glad that I can make a difference this time and so far, all 3 kittens are very healthy and pure joy. They grow steadily and get every day wilder. I asked my little friend and my two nieces at home to give them names. So the two boys are called: Rambo and Tilda and the little girls name is: Phia.

All three eat solid food now and I am proud to say that they are potty trained. On the 13th of September, they will be 3 months old.
I love them very much and don’t want to give them away. But of course it would be better, if one of you VSO volunteers (or if you know someone else who can provide a good home for them) would like to have a little mouse eating companion. You then can try to persuade me and the names are changeable.

Little Phia found already a home. She is going to Kratie soon, Abi very kindly takes this bundle of joy to give her a wonderful start into her new cat’s live.

I could get hold of the vet in Stung Treng to stop any more pregnancies after finding out about possible contraception for her. He is able to give a quarterly hormone injection. Neutering is not available for female cats here in Stung Treng. The male cats get castration for 10$ on the kitchen table. Men always have it easier. But unfortunately for Srey-Niem it is too late. She is pregnant again.

mother and son

It might sound funny, but I can see similarities between female cats and Cambodian women, who live in rural areas.
It is about the suppression, living a life that is constantly focused on own survival and the survival of the children, getting pregnant and having no protection, fighting constantly for food and living in the hidden.

this is not my demon, its a real cat!

I couldn’t have imagined to have a cat or pet while I am here, but I can assure, it is not a bad thing at all. It keeps you company and makes you laugh and it’s good for your well being I believe. Of course we all go home at some point, but then we will leave a happy, strong, well fed cat behind who will be thankful that you shared your love with them. And the next volunteer might be happy to take over from you.

So if you want a cute kitten but they’ve all gone already
this time, don’t worry, in 65 days, there will be more!

Miau! Contact me! Katja Horsch.
089 233 458. Free delivery and cat food!

This is it, no more about cats in the next blog. I promise!

Here some more interesting stuff:

We had the british Ambassador for a visit at the RTC which was exiting!

questioning some students about their student life at the RTC

a tour around the student accommodation buildings

these are books I've received for free by an english training course designer

our workplan in drawing

Carol and me

I've also been invited to do some training support in Oli's hospital in Thmar Pouk in the North-west. That was a nice experience and I basically helped the Chied Nurse to do a presentation about the new nursing documentation and about the nursing process and afterwards we went to the wards to practise everything.

with Sokpha, Oli's VA and Mr. Vannak, the Head nurse of TP RH

a midwife puts her ideas onto the board

at the peadiatric ward in Thmar Pouk

I've also visited Oli's newly build childrens ward which looks fab. He is now in the process of making it child-friendly.

Chanty and her second baby

Thmar Pouk itself was beautiful as ever

but also very muddy, especially because there are no proper roads to walk on...

Oli's daily way to work...

ot la-or!

On the way home, Oli accompanied me to Siem Riep and we stayed there for another few days, because it's so nice there.

"we are not here to be eaten, we eat from your feet!"

a slightly crazy Cambodian, who then later jumped through that ring of knifes

Apsara dancing in the temple-bar in Siem Riep

We've been to Phnom Penh for several occasions, mostly meetings : )...

jame's Birthday party in CHOW

what about your hair like this, Susan?

food is coming soon!

Mr. Health and Safety wears a yellow jacket even in Phnom Penh!

Holli and Carol in Kratie, enjoying the Sunset

all nursing students year 3 infront of the RTC

We've also visited Diamnond Island and Naga-World, which is a huge expensive complex with a casino.

the newest addition to PP's Diamond Island is this Kitsch Park

... just can't get enogh...

Cambodian darting- 1 dart, 1000 Riel

usually I am good in darting...this time it took me 5 darts to hit one ballon

After dragging Oli into the merry-go-round, he needed 5 minutes afterwards to gain normal skin colour back

Phnom Penh newest high-tech construction project

Win Big!

a giant chandelier from below in Naga World

inside the Aristrocrat Wine and Cigar Bar, only affordable because of happy hour!

hairy butterflys on the ceiling to promote malaysian mooncakes

in front of Naga World, PP

And also we went to see several films in Meta-house, which is run by Germans, and downstairs is an art gallery with changing exhibitions...

so rude...

We had volunteer gatherings in Stung Treng...

this hideous dress I got as a present from my landlady who thinks, I look with it like a film star!

we had all veggi food, yum!

Party in Carols house, Maria, Ferdi, Carol, Linda, Louisa, Ant, Rach and me

Touch made Sushi!

the waffle lady in Stung Treng, mmmhh yummy!

I've been to Kratie for one week to observe the Facilitators of the 2nd Preceptor & Clinical Instructor Training week, which capacity I tried to built up.
I stayed with Abi,

Abi and a neighbours baby

who is another VSO Health volunteer and who works as a Nursing Advisor in the Referral Hospital.

Abi in her house with neighbours children

We had a lot of fun during that week and it was workwise also very productive and interesting.

Abi and Mr. Rithy

me with my favourite teacher from the RTC

me and Abi on the way to a massage

Kratie view

red flower tree in Kratie PHD

all participants from the 2nd Preceptor and Clinical Instructor Training week in Kratie

Kratie, there's a shower on the way...

Kratie River view

my Heros! Mr. Sinal, Mr. Sokoehn, Mr. Rithy and Mr. Seylak

Back in Stung Treng, we celebrated Hor, who moved on from his Job in the RTC to a Job with VSO in the Programme Office in Phnom Penh. That means that our team in the RTC has become smaller and Carol and me have to struggle through all the financial issues of the project ourselves.

the Stung Treng Dwarfs... me, Maria, Ant, Rach and Carol

this dish is called: cow climbing up the hill

Hor's goodbye party in Stung Treng with all the Stung Trengers

our last picture together on Hor's leaving do : (

a Cambodian and a Brit

Hor and Sithon sing Karaoke in Stung Treng Karaoke Bar

Another reason to go to Phnom Penh last month was, that Holli and Nono were leaving Cambodia after 2 years. It is really strange saying goodbye to people you've known now for the entire time being here and suddently they go home and you stay on.

on Nonos last night in Cambodia. Holli left the day after Nono left : (

Emily and Holli

Live Jazz in Studio 182

Oli and Emily

yes, Mr. Hendrix was there too!

We visited Paul, who had a fractured leg and enjoyed the pool at the Pavillion...

poor Paul with his plaster...

volunteers have a life, I tell you...

together in the Pav, visiting Paul

the very appriciated library in the PO

how much I like the Programme Office... it's my second home.

the living room area in the PO

A 5, Programme Office PP

It was really hard to say goodbye to Holli, who unfortunately lately suffered for the second time from Dengue fever...

This is all you take with you after spending 2 years in Cambodia...

goodbye Holli! See you in Oxford!

I hope to see her in England next year when I return.

Oli and me have to prepare for this year's Angkor Wat run! It's the time of the year again. It will be this year on the 5th of December and I remember last year, how hard I trained for it first with Delia, then on my own during ICT, then also with Oli and I did the 10 km in 56 minutes. It was amazing.
This year I feel rather unfit and a little slow and I can't imagine to do the same again, but the competitive side in me thinks, I can even do a better time.
To have another challenge, Oli and me want to do the 30 km bike ride as well a day before the run. Gosh, he's so ambicious and super fit!
To train for it, we go running at the Olympic stadium or at the River side when we're in PP.

the Olympic Stadium in Phnom Penh early moring

Oli tried to beat me in running, not knowing about the consequences...

after the resuscitation

all hot and sweaty at 7o'clock in the morning

On our last trip to PP, I showed Oli the beautiful Royal Palace. I've been there before with Antje and Mami, so the you've seen pictures before, but these ones Oli took are just spectacular. He's a very good photographer. Enjoy!

Oli what are you staring at?

Otherwise Oli and me discovered the Lindy-Hop-Swing-Dancing and trying to get lessons whenever we are in Phnom Penh. It's great fun and sooo groovy.
Then I am in the process of re-registering with the NMC. And the Highlight is that I am very exited to announce, that Dave is coming to visit me this coming weekend.

The bad news is, that my camera is completly dead now so no more pictures so soon from me...

The next blog will be about the north of Vietnam. Oli and I are planning to fly to Hanoi in 3 weeks for 10 days! It will be the Royal Ploughing festival here in Cambodia so many Holidays are coming up again!

Otherwise I hope all is well and the autumn back home is glorious.

All the best and hear from your soon! Love from your Katja!

a VIP Tuk-Tuk

Welcome to a good world!

katja-horsch — Tue, 27 Jul 2010 00:00:00 GMT

this is Rambo

My kittens have arrived and finally get the treatment they diserve.
Otherwise I was busy helping the RTC prepare for one week of Training and to organize and facilitate the annual Health Sector Workshop. Of course with appropriate celebrating afterwards!

So why did I use this title? I think, that this time, Srey-Niems kittens are really lucky to be born, after I moved in. I love them very much and try to take care of them as much as I can. Oli helped me to get in touch with an american organisation who can provide me with cat contraception pills, which are costly but worth it.
So here we are. Three cute kittens, 2 boys, 1 girl. Born on the 13th of July at 5 am and I witnessed it.

shortly after the birth

Because my camera was broken that time, I don't have pictures of them for you as newborn kittens. But with eyes open, they are much cuter anyway.
My niece could chose 2 names and she wanted them to be called: Matilda and Sophia and my little friend Lasse from Guestrow could chose and wanted one to be called: Rambo.

so hungry all the time

Matilda, Sophia and Rambo are having a nap

the happy family, here with father: Gem

Srey-Niem is a good mum.

two week old kittens

yes, not camera shy

born on the 13th of June...

sleep well and get strong, you'll need it!

So after all that exitement and one week Preceptor and Clinical Instructor Training at the Regional Training Centre in Stung Treng, I went to Phnom Penh to be part of the annual Health Sector Workshop and greet Oli back, who arrived "home" after 10 days in the UK.

one late morning in the Programme Office...

Good morning Oli!

Have you had your three S's already?

Alice opens the HSW officially

The energizer at the beginning: write an interesting thing about yourself!

Ant and Rach

everyone had to prepare their own name badge beforehand

Leonie and JP

Chris and Susan

Carol and Suzanna give their presentation

everyone listens?

the RTC gang

the RTC ladies

a nutritional workshop for lunch

during cooking demonstration

njam bai...

Anna does some cooking demonstration

Apparently I looked very yellow that day. Yellow shirt, Yellow hair, Yellow theeth...

At the end of one day Health Sector Workshop, we had a lovely night on the rooftop at the Tamarind bar with Live music from the musical partners of some volunteers.

the "Phnom-Penh 5 o'clock band"

Paul on the trompet and Stevie on the guitar

Anna and me on the dancefloor

Suze and Dominique and the Bongo

Wohl zu tief ins Glas geguckt, was?

Abi and me

The next day of the Health Sector Workshop started with a rather boring session...

Daniels and Thann presentation

still smiling

Oli and his VA Sokpha

Rach keeps us moving with the Communication Line

examples of how to improve the cooperation between North-East and North-West in Cambodia

the Evaluation Tree

the best speaker of the workshop

Maria, Rachel, Anthony, Oli and the giant

the HSW committee

well done Team!

yeah, all 48 participants from the HSW, against the light!

In the evening we showed health related films in the Flicks, a local cinema:

a special announcement at the Flicks

And then, we were invited to Sarah's house warming party in Phnom Penh.

this is the juwellery, Hanna made for me in Enland

good view!

( this dress was so expensive, so I need to show those pictures)

Jen from Sissaphon

Charlene and her hubby + Linda

Jeltje

come on, lets go danci'n!

welcome to Studio 182!

good cocktails!

only one gets my cherry!

What a great time we had in Phnom Penh! Come and visit soon! Not much time left for me!

We also celebrated Carols birthday properly...

Carols Birthday party in Phnom Penh

Happy Birthday girl!

Big kisses from your Katja!

moved and still alive!

katja-horsch — Wed, 09 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

my pregnant cat Srey-Niem

Hello everyone.

Nearly two weeks, I finally managed to empty my old house and moved a few houses down the road, to my new home.

From a big giant wooden 2 bedroom house on stilts with River view, I've downsized to 2 rooms in a house, where I now live with a Khmer family together.

Vandy cooks mushrooms

I made the decision a few months ago, when Linda came to Stung Treng, looking for a house. Because I got friendly with this family long time ago and I visited them regularly to teach 3 daughters English two times a week, I asked them if they would know a good house for Linda. That's when Vandy (the mother) suggested for the first time her house. But then it was still in a real state. I thought, Linda probably wouldn't like it, but then I started thinking about it, how it would be for me, living with them. And the main thought of doing this was, that I could support them every month with good money by paying them regular rent.

studying English in my living room

Generally they are very poor people. Vandy and her husband have survived the Khmer Rouge war, just about. They were both in camps around Phnom Penh and had to work very hard, had only very little to eat and nearly died of starvation. They have seen the killings, Vandy lost both her parents. She was only 12 years old when the war started.

She wasn't poor all her life. Before the war she and her family was rich. Her father was an engeneer for airoplanes and spoke 5 different languages and her mother was in the juwerly buisness and they lived in a big house in Phnom Penh.
But after the war everything was destroyed and gone. She met her husband fairly early and moved to Stung Treng, although she promised herself to leave the country forever. I suppose she felt kind of save being close to a border (Laos).
But her sister, who managed to escape to Amerika, helped her, to buy the house 22 years ago in Stung Treng. Since then they live there. 20 years ago she gave birth to her 2 twin daughters Tom and Touch (means in english Big and Small). She gave birth at home with help of a neighbour. She said that she can't remember how it all happened. I think she can be very happy to be still alive after that.
She also has a 17 years old daughter called: Rek-smey and a 15 year old daughter: Thida. Both born at home.

Their living standart is kind of normal for Cambodia I would say, for poor people. But they try to make a difference and she taught her daughters good manners. But Carol made a suitable comment, it feels like being on home-stay. Only that it lasts for the rest of the time being here.

doing the washing up

There is no fridge. Oli just bought himself one because he finds it so important. So far I am ok without it. In fact, it's no problem at all.
Then the bathroom. A squatting toilet, no toilet paper, it would block the pipes. Shower only with a little bowl with water from a big open water tank in the middle of the room. It felt strange at first, I also felt that everyone is looking through the gaps in the wood from the bathroom, but Vandy reassured me, that that is not the case. Usually, the women have a bath with a sarong on (a big piece of cloth to cover all the parts), they leave it on while they get wet and soap themselves.

having siesta during lunchtime

Food preparation and cooking was done so far in the back garden under another house. There they have clay-pots and cook on the open fire.

the kitchen

I also had a go already. It's ok.
They still find it strange that I don't eat meat and appear still so strong. But now I kind of convinced them, that it is healthier not to eat meat and now they want to eat the same food as me. Exept Pa-pa, he is very Cambodian and needs his meat every day.

njam bay...

Now Rek-smey, who looks a little bit after me in that way, that she cleans my room ( I can't stop her) and pushes my bicycle in front of the house before I go to work, now she started cooking in my "living-room" with a gas cooker, because she thinks it's too dirty outside and "too much bad smell".

this is my little new room

Vandy is an increadable woman. I like her very much. She is so friendly, always laughs and trys to communicate with me. Her English is very good I would say and when we speak, she speaks half Khmer, half English. She taught herself with books and with help of an English woman, who was here several years ago. But her urge to learn more about it and to pass it on to her children is increadable.

inside my new living room, I've got the posters from PP

She also likes very much to give. There is a man from Japan, Mino, who somehow came to their house one day and since then, he stays there for free for months, gets fed and can use everything. He is 67 years old but lovely. He has gone back to Japan now after a month staying in the "bedroom"of Vandy and Pa-pa.

my new view

And what I probably most like about her, is that she is so friendly to the animals. They have 3 dogs ( Zida, Deng and Heng), 4 cats (Gem, Cha-Sok who is a kitten from Srey-Ni-em, who is the pregnant cat and Quann, who is for 4 years already krippeled after a dog fight and can't move anymore, but Vandy looks after him), then there is the parrot ( I forgot the name, but he doesnt like me), and the silly chicken (A-pi-ep, he is very sweet, likes to be stroked and when you say his name, he reacts and comes and kikerikees).

he likes me now

A-piep died the other day. He drowned in a pond...

I tried to teach him to say: Germany beat England, but he won't say it!

this little one is Srey-Niems son

little Srey- Niem

Unfortunately her daughters are not as motivated as their mother. They pick up not so quickly. But I hope by the time I live there a bit longer, their English will have improved a little bit. Well, it has already I suppose.

Welcome in my new house!

mmhh, Thai curry and fruit!

Touch, Peach, Rek-smey and Tida, my sisters!

together with the Korean teacher and Linda

I don't wear high heels!

at small Health meeting

building work for a new bridge goes on now for nearly 6 months!

Tida and Rek-smey

Rek-smey cooks Tempura!

Stung Treng at the beginning of the rainy season

khmer eating habit, eating on the floor

Meanwhile we had fun in Phnom Penh and Oli and me did a short trip to Ratanakiri.
Enjoy the pictures!

desperate girls from the province in the big city!

Oli and Dutz looked after us

OK Condom or I am fine or 3 more?

at Linda's for the Holland game

after a long night of filming...

Carol, Channa and me advertise for VSO

with our hired bikes we cycled to the vulcanic lake

BE PASSIONATE FOR THE NATURE HERE!

And I said to Oli, we will find the lake. No need to roll in the mud...

Ratanakiri's statue of some ethnics

There he comes, the 30 years old, apparently happy elephant!

OMG! Is he big!

the elephant liked the Rambutan, we fed him

it was amazing but also quite uncomfortable

yes, this is cool!

the 60 years old mum was hidden in the deep forest

Stung Treng at the beginning of the rainy season

one reason, why I am here - the Millenium Develpment Goals

katja-horsch — Tue, 18 May 2010 00:00:00 GMT

In this blog, I wanted to clarify, the other reason of being here in Cambodia.

After telling you all about my amazing travels, it also might be interesting to you, why I am where I am at the moment.

It has all to do with the Millenium Development Goals, which are to be achieved by 2015. That's what my organization works on and me also, in a very small way.

Here are some facts to read for you for a better understanding:

The Millennium Development Goals (MDGs) are eight international development goals that all 192 United Nations member states and at least 23 international organizations have agreed to achieve by the year 2015. They include reducing extreme poverty, reducing child mortality rates, fighting disease epidemics such as AIDS, and developing a global partnership for development.

Background:
In 2001, recognizing the need to assist impoverished nations more aggressively, UN member states adopted the targets. The MDGs aim to spur development by improving social and economic conditions in the world's poorest countries.
They derive from earlier international development targets, and were officially established at the Millennium Summit in 2000, where all world leaders present adopted the United Nations Millennium Declaration, from which the eight goals were promoted.

Goals:
The percentage of the world's population living in extreme poverty has halved since 1981. Most of this improvement has occurred in East and South Asia.
The Millennium Development Goals (MDGs) were developed out of the eight chapters of the United Nations Millennium Declaration, signed in September 2000. There are eight goals with 21 targets, and a series of measurable indicators for each target.

Goal 1: Eradicate extreme poverty and hunger
• Target 1A: Halve the proportion of people living on less than $1 a day
o Proportion of population below $1 per day (PPP values)
o Poverty gap ratio [incidence x depth of poverty]
o Share of poorest quintile in national consumption
• Target 1B: Achieve Decent Employment for Women, Men, and Young People
o GDP Growth per Employed Person
o Employment Rate
o Proportion of employed population below $1 per day (PPP values)
o Proportion of family-based workers in employed population
• Target 1C: Halve the proportion of people who suffer from hunger
o Prevalence of underweight children under five years of age
o Proportion of population below minimum level of dietary energy consumption

Goal 2: Achieve universal primary education
• Target 2A: By 2015, all children can complete a full course of primary schooling, girls and boys
o Enrollment in primary education
o Completion of primary education
o Literacy of 15-24 year olds, female and male

Goal 3: Promote gender equality and empower women
• Target 3A: Eliminate gender disparity in primary and secondary education preferably by 2005, and at all levels by 2015
o Ratios of girls to boys in primary, secondary and tertiary education
o Share of women in wage employment in the non-agricultural sector
o Proportion of seats held by women in national parliament

Goal 4: Reduce child mortality
• Target 4A: Reduce by two-thirds, between 1990 and 2015, the under-five mortality rate
o Under-five mortality rate
o Infant (under 1) mortality rate
o Proportion of 1-year-old children immunised against measles

Goal 5: Improve maternal health
• Target 5A: Reduce by three quarters, between 1990 and 2015, the maternal mortality ratio
o Maternal mortality ratio
o Proportion of births attended by skilled health personnel
• Target 5B: Achieve, by 2015, universal access to reproductive health
o Contraceptive prevalence rate
o Adolescent birth rate
o Antenatal care coverage (at least one visit and at least four visits)
o Unmet need for family planning

Goal 6: Combat HIV/AIDS, malaria, and other diseases
• Target 6A: Have halted by 2015 and begun to reverse the spread of HIV/AIDS
o HIV prevalence among population aged 15–24 years
o Condom use at last high-risk sex
o Proportion of population aged 15–24 years with comprehensive correct knowledge of HIV/AIDS
o Ratio of school attendance of orphans to school attendance of non-orphans aged 10–14 years
• Target 6B: Achieve, by 2010, universal access to treatment for HIV/AIDS for all those who need it
o Proportion of population with advanced HIV infection with access to antiretroviral drugs
• Target 6C: Have halted by 2015 and begun to reverse the incidence of malaria and other major diseases
o Prevalence and death rates associated with malaria
o Proportion of children under 5 sleeping under insecticide-treated bednets
o Proportion of children under 5 with fever who are treated with appropriate anti-malarial drugs
o Prevalence and death rates associated with tuberculosis
o Proportion of tuberculosis cases detected and cured under DOTS (Directly Observed Treatment Short Course)

Goal 7: Ensure environmental sustainability
• Target 7A: Integrate the principles of sustainable development into country policies and programmes; reverse loss of environmental resources
• Target 7B: Reduce biodiversity loss, achieving, by 2010, a significant reduction in the rate of loss
o Proportion of land area covered by forest
o CO2 emissions, total, per capita and per $1 GDP (PPP)
o Consumption of ozone-depleting substances
o Proportion of fish stocks within safe biological limits
o Proportion of total water resources used
o Proportion of terrestrial and marine areas protected
o Proportion of species threatened with extinction
• Target 7C: Halve, by 2015, the proportion of people without sustainable access to safe drinking water and basic sanitation (for more information see the entry on water supply)
o Proportion of population with sustainable access to an improved water source, urban and rural
o Proportion of urban population with access to improved sanitation
• Target 7D: By 2020, to have achieved a significant improvement in the lives of at least 100 million slum-dwellers
o Proportion of urban population living in slums

Goal 8: Develop a global partnership for development
• Target 8A: Develop further an open, rule-based, predictable, non-discriminatory trading and financial system
o Includes a commitment to good governance, development, and poverty reduction – both nationally and internationally
• Target 8B: Address the Special Needs of the Least Developed Countries (LDC)
o Includes: tariff and quota free access for LDC exports; enhanced programme of debt relief for HIPC and cancellation of official bilateral debt; and more generous ODA (Overseas Development Assistance) for countries committed to poverty reduction
• Target 8C: Address the special needs of landlocked developing countries and small island developing States
o Through the Programme of Action for the Sustainable Development of Small Island Developing States and the outcome of the twenty-second special session of the General Assembly
• Target 8D: Deal comprehensively with the debt problems of developing countries through national and international measures in order to make debt sustainable in the long term
Indicators
Some of the indicators listed below are monitored separately for the least developed countries (LDCs), Africa, landlocked developing countries and small island developing States.
• Official development assistance (ODA)
o Net ODA, total and to LDCs, as percentage of OECD/DAC donors’ GNI
o Proportion of total sector-allocable ODA of OECD/DAC donors to basic social services (basic education, primary health care, nutrition, safe water and sanitation)
o Proportion of bilateral ODA of OECD/DAC donors that is untied
o ODA received in landlocked countries as proportion of their GNIs
o ODA received in small island developing States as proportion of their GNIs
• Market access
o Proportion of total developed country imports (by value and excluding arms) from developing countries and from LDCs, admitted free of duty
o Average tariffs imposed by developed countries on agricultural products and textiles and clothing from developing countries
o Agricultural support estimate for OECD countries as percentage of their GDP
o Proportion of ODA provided to help build trade capacity
• Debt sustainability
o Total number of countries that have reached their HIPC decision points and number that have reached their HIPC completion points (cumulative)
o Debt relief committed under HIPC initiative, US$
o Debt service as a percentage of exports of goods and services
• Target 8E: In co-operation with pharmaceutical companies, provide access to affordable, essential drugs in developing countries
o Proportion of population with access to affordable essential drugs on a sustainable basis
• Target 8F: In co-operation with the private sector, make available the benefits of new technologies, especially information and communications
o Telephone lines and cellular subscribers per 100 population
o Personal computers in use per 100 population
o Internet users per 100 Population

Progress:
Progress towards reaching the goals has been uneven. Some countries have achieved many of the goals, while others are not on track to realize any.The major countries that have been achieving their goals include China (whose poverty population has reduced from 452 million to 278 million) and India due to clear internal and external factors of population and economic development.

However, areas needing the most reduction, such as the Sub-Saharan Africa regions have yet to make any drastic changes in improving their quality of life. In the same time as China, the Sub-Saharan Africa reduced their poverty about one percent, and are at a major risk of not meeting the MDGs by 2015.Fundamental issues will determine whether or not the MDGs are achieved, namely gender, the divide between the humanitarian and development agendas and economic growth, according to the Overseas Development Institute.
To accelerate progress towards the MDGs, the G-8 Finance Ministers met in London in June 2005 (in preparation for the G-8 Gleneagles Summit in July) and reached an agreement to provide enough funds to the World Bank, the IMF, and the African Development Bank (ADB) to cancel an additional $40–55 billion debt owed by members of the HIPC. This would allow impoverished countries to re-channel the resources saved from the forgiven debt to social programs for improving health and education and for alleviating poverty.
Backed by G-8 funding, the World Bank, the IMF, and the ADB each endorsed the Gleaneagles plan and implemented the Multilateral Debt Relief Initiative ("MDRI") to effectuate the debt cancellations. The MDRI supplements HIPC by providing each country that reaches the HIPC completion point 100% forgiveness of its multilateral debt. Countries that previously reached the decision point became eligible for full debt forgiveness once their lending agency confirmed that the countries had continued to maintain the reforms implemented during HIPC status. Other countries that subsequently reach the completion point automatically receive full forgiveness of their multilateral debt under MDRI.
While the World Bank and ADB limit MDRI to countries that complete the HIPC program, the IMF's MDRI eligibility criteria are slightly less restrictive so as to comply with the IMF's unique "uniform treatment" requirement. Instead of limiting eligibility to HIPC countries, any country with annual per capita income of $380 or less qualifies for MDRI debt cancellation. The IMF adopted the $380 threshold because it closely approximates the countries eligible for HIPC.
Yet, as we head towards 2015 increasing global uncertainties, such as the economic crisis and climate change, have led to an opportunity to rethink the MDG approach to development policy. According to the 'In Focus' Policy Brief from the Institute of Development Studies, the ‘After 2015' debate is about questioning the value of an MDG-type, target-based approach to international development, about progress so far on poverty reduction, about looking to an uncertain future and exploring what kind of system is needed after the MDG deadline has passed.
The effects of increasing drug use has been noted by the International Journal of Drug Policy as a deterrent to the goal of the MDGs.

Challenges of the Millennium Development Goals:
Although developed countries' aid for the achievement of the MDGs have been rising over the recent year, it has shown that more than half is towards debt relief owed by poor countries. As well, remaining aid money goes towards natural disaster relief and military aid which does not further the country into development. According to the United Nations Department of Economic and Social Affairs (2006), the 50 least developed countries only receive about one third of all aid that flows from developed countries, raising the issue of aid not moving from rich to poor depending on their development needs but rather from rich to their closest allies.

What are the Cambodia Millennium Development Goals?

What is the difference between the Millennium Development Goals (MDGs) and the Cambodia Millennium Development Goals (CMDGs)?
The Royal Government of Cambodia (RGC), as one member state of the United Nations General Assembly (UNGA), is firmly committed to bridging the gap between global commitments and national progress, and between aggregate national and local development outcomes. In 2003, the Royal Government of Cambodia (RGC) adapted the 8 universally agreed Millennium Development Goals (MDGs) to better suit the realities of the country. Recognizing that one major constraint to development is the continued contamination of mines and unexploded ordinance (UXO), the RGC added de-mining, UXO and victim assistance as the ninth major development goal. Cambodia's MDGs (CMDGs) thus consist of the following 9 goals:

Goal 1: Eradicate extreme poverty and hunger
Goal 2: Achieve universal primary education
Goal 3: Promote gender equality and empower women
Goal 4: Reduce child mortality
Goal 5: Improve maternal health
Goal 6: Combat HIV/AIDS, malaria and other diseases
Goal 7: Ensure environmental sustainability
Goal 8: Develop a global partnership for development
Goal 9: De-mining, UXO and victim assistance

CMDGs include 9 goals, 25 targets and 106 indicators. In 2008 the MDG indicator framework was modified globally, but the CMDG indicators have not yet been modified accordingly.
As part of an effort to strengthen the focus of the United Nations on achieving Millennium Development Goals (MDG) in general and the Cambodian MDG (CMDG) in particular, and as a preliminary step towards the preparation of the 2010 CMDG Report, the progress to date in achieving CMDG has been reviewed.

VSO Health in Cambodia especially supports Goal 4, 5 and 6.

Goal 4: Reduce child mortality

In 2008, one baby out of 20 died before reaching his/her first birthday. While this number is high, it should be recognized that it has been reduced from almost one death per ten births in 1998. Similarly, under-five mortality, while high, has decreased from 124 to 83 deaths per 1,000 live births from 2000 to 2005. The progress on CMDG 4 has been attributed to the strong performance of the national immunization programme, successful exclusive breastfeeding promotion, improved access to basic health services, an overall reduction of poverty levels and improved access to education and better roads.

These efforts have made CMDG 4 the goal where most progress has been made, with many targets already reached or exceeded. However, while overall the situation of child mortality has improved substantially, there are still wide regional variations that need to be addressed. Infant and under-five mortality are still almost double the national average in Kampong Speu, Preah Vihear/Steung Treng, Prey Veng and Mondol Kiri/Rattanak Kiri provinces.
Last Updated ( Friday, 12 February 2010 )

Goal 5: Improve maternal health

Maternal mortality is has remained consistently high over the last fifteen years, with no significant change since 1993. This is due to a number of factors, including the low proportion of births attended by skilled health personnel (increased from 32 percent in 2000, but is still only at 58 percent), the very low rate of use of modern contraceptives (26 percent), the high level of iron deficiency anemia among pregnant women, the inaccessibility of Emergency Obstetrics and Newborn Care (EmONC) to many women and newborns, limited access to safe abortion and low education levels among pregnant women.

Achieving Goal 5 would require a significant improvement in access to health care and family planning services, increasing the number of trained health personnel, conducting information campaigns and addressing the inadequate family practices and care-seeking behaviour during pregnancy and childbirth.
Last Updated ( Friday, 12 February 2010 )

Goal 6: Combat HIV/AIDS, malaria and other diseases

Cambodia has achieved internationally recognized success in combatting HIV/AIDS. The HIV prevalence rate in the adult population has continuously fallen from 1.9 percent in 1997 to 1.2 percent and 0.7 percent in 2003 and 2008 respectively, which is better than the 2015 target rate of <0.9. The reason is due to a focused and coordinated response from government and development partners, particularly increasing condom use rates among direct sex workers. However, there are now concerns about the resurgence of the epidemic among most at-risk groups (drug users, men who have sex with men and entertainment workers) and an increase of new HIV infections through spousal and mother-to-child transmission.

The major challenges now are to maintain and increase HIV education and prevention and to reduce the risk transmission among at-risk groups. Gender discrimination must also be addressed to cope with the increasing spousal HIV infections.

While progress has been made in the fight against dengue fever, Cambodia needs to work harder on reducing the malaria fatality rate and eliminating tolerant malaria parasites along the northern border area as well as the fatality rate from tuberculosis.
Last Updated ( Friday, 12 February 2010 )

I hope, this was interesting to you and you can see the context of me being here and the worlwide mission behind it.

Thank you for your attention.

Your Katja

"Eradicating extreme poverty continues to be one of the main challenges of our time, and is a major concern of the international community. Ending this scourge will require the combined efforts of all, governments, civil society organizations and the private sector, in the context of a stronger and more effective global partnership for development. The Millennium Development Goals set timebound targets, by which progress in reducing income poverty, hunger, disease, lack of adequate shelter and exclusion — while promoting gender equality, health, education and environmental sustainability — can be measured. They also embody basic human rights — the rights of each person on the planet to health, education, shelter and security. The Goals are ambitious but feasible and, together with the comprehensive United Nations development agenda, set the course for the world’s efforts to alleviate extreme poverty by 2015. "

United Nations Secretary-General BAN Ki-moon

beautiful Kep

katja-horsch — Tue, 18 May 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Kep (Khmer: កែប, literally: "Saddle of the Horse") or Kep-sur-Mer in French is a southwestern province of Cambodia. It is subdivided into two districts (srŏk): Kep and Damnak Chang'aeur. Kep, which is located just a few kilometers from Ha Tien, the border with Vietnam, used to be Cambodia's most popular and prestigious beach town but has fallen on hard times in recent years.

Sunrise in Kep, infront of Kukuluku guesthouse

shallow water on Kep beach

an amazing flower

fisher men

Tequilla the dog gave us great company in the morning

From the early 1900s until the 1960s, Kep was a thriving resort town for the French and Cambodian elite. During the Khmer Rouge years, much of Kep's French colonial era mansions and villas were destroyed. Many of Kep's villas are abandoned, but some of the town's former splendour is still apparent.

can you see the little island in the background?

The ocean is lined with wide sidewalks and large statues. King Sihanouk built a home overlooking the Gulf of Thailand, but it was never occupied and now sits empty. A good, paved road connects the town with Kampot. Kep's beaches are mostly mangrove and black rock rather than the white sands of Sihanoukville. Several islands lie off the coast, Koh Thonsáy ( Rabbit Island) is just a short boat ride away. The town is well known for seafood - particularly the crab.

a little Crab in Kep

In addition, Kep is home to an extensive national park. Oli and me walked around a hill for 4 hours and had astonishing views.

this one was a bit shy and didn't want to look into the camera

not shy

the famous Led Zepplin Cafe, but closed

Walking the dogs around the hill

beautiful szenerie around Kep

Another attraction is the mermaid statue.

The white concrete mermaid, with absolutely gravity-defying breasts, sits just to the east of the Beach House on Kep's main beach.

defenitely a Khmer mermaid

Every now and then a bunch of social conservatives kick up a storm about the statue's nudity and drape her with garments -- most of which disappear within a day or two.

One night, we spent on Rabbit Island (Koh Tonsay).

on the way to the boat, infront is Rabbit-Island

Koh Tonsay (Khmer: កោះទន្សាយ) is located about 4.5 Kilometers southwest of Kep.

We were drawn to the two beautiful white sand beaches.

Yes, I am posing here for the camera.

The sea here is shallow and has a long slope, making Koh Tonsay excellent for swimming. At the sea bottom are a variety of corals, sea animals and plants which attract researchers and ecologists.

the pancakes were yummy!

Oli thinks: What will I have for lunch???

Snorkling around the beach

the first bungalow from the right was ours

I like Rabbit-Island

The name Koh Tosay is derived from the word Rumsay. While trying to avoid the commander’s troops, Prince Sakor Reach grew hopeless because his own troops began to tire. He led his remaining troops across the sea to an island in front of Kep city, where the troops spread out. Accordingly, the island was called Koh Rumsay, the Koh Ormsay or Koh Ornsay, and the Koh Tonsay, as it is known today.

Koh Tonsay is 2 square kilometers in area. During then-Prince Norodom Sihanouk’s Sangku Reastr Niyum regime, it was used as a place to rehabilitate criminals, who were also used to defend the island. Horse cart paths and wooden, thatch roofed motels were also constructed during this time. Most of this infrastructure has been destroyed by weather and decades of war. Today, seven families live on the island. They earn their living by fishing and growing coconut trees.

a buddist shrein

2 Dollar for the Tuk-Tuk? T'lai nah!

I hope you are all well! Hear from you soon, your Katja!

I have been to Laos!

katja-horsch — Fri, 07 May 2010 00:00:00 GMT

means: "Hello" in Laos

Actually, before Oli and I went to Laos, we've met in Kratie for the leaving do/party of Emily and Susan. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of it.

riding from Kratie back to Stung Treng

playing kids on the roadside

Mee chaa chee-moi bon-lai ( fright noodles with veg)

The "Kratie Dolphin man"

Irradaway Dolphins, around 40 left in that part of the Mekong river

you can hear them breathe once they dive up

video evidence also exists of the dolphins...

The next day, we went to see the dolphins. Oli managed to shoot some amazing pictures.

Oli took amazing pictures of them

the "real Dolphin man" and his admirer

let's go swimming!

swimming in the Mekong, Khmer style