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Maligne ('Maleen') Lake & more wildlife but no bears

Jasper, Canada


A more relaxed start to our day from Cedar Gate B&B in Jasper's Connaught Drive, which is a short drive away from Highway 93 and the Junction for the Maligne Lake Road. Rick had booked our tickets for the lake trip on-line on Saturday evening and the only available slot was the 5 pm sailing so we took our time covering the 43 kms. As we joined the highway leading out of town Rick spotted a lone Coyote or possibly a wolf trotting along just below the tree line bordering the road and he was the one driving! I was busy getting my camera out of my backpack so was a bit miffed to have missed it.

Our first stop was at Maligne Canyon. The Maligne river has carved its way tortuously through the layers of rock here. The river is fast and very narrow only a few feet across and has sculpted strange and beautiful curves in the rock walls. At its deepest the canyon walls are 30 metres to the river bed with several spectacular waterfalls tumbling down. The footpath winds its way down the gorge. Great going down but harder work going back up!

Back in the car and past Medicine Lake, which apparently is peppered with lakebed sink holes. The guide book says that there is no natural outlet to the lake and that it fills and drains through the holes, which form part of a huge underground complex of springs and channels. Sometimes it can be completely empty. Not so today. A few miles from the lake there had been a large flashing sign warning of animals by the roadside and half way along the shore road we spotted cars slowing. A small flock of Big Horn sheep were wandering slowly across the road.

The maximum speed limit on Maligne Road is 60km (because of the animals) so it took a good further half hour to reach the Maligne Lake car park. We made our way to the ticket office to see if we needed to pick up tickets. We were checked in and offered an earlier sailing at 4 pm so we quickly ate our picnic and were joined by a Grey Jay (yes, you've guessed it, we've bought a small laminated pamphlet – 'Rocky Mountain Wildlife') who was flitting about in the pines above us impatient to get down and search for crumbs.

As 4 pm approached we assembled on the quayside and off we went for our 1.5 hour trip down the lake to view the box canyon at its other end. Our guide gave us lots of interesting info on the lake and surrounding mountains with the occasional amusing anecdote thrown in. Plenty of opportunity to snap away as the boat slowed and gently turned full circle a couple of times. Just as well as we had three Korean gentleman immediately in front of us armed with cameras who insisted on bobbing up and down and leaning out of the windows every few seconds during the first half hour.

We passed three mountains with glaciers – another breathtaking sight.

Once back on dry land a couple of Golden-mantled Ground Squirrels were waiting under the first set of benches busily nibbling something tasty. Another photo opportunity and one I said to Rick the boys would love (Freddie and Alfie too, of course).

I insisted on driving again in case Rick had the chance of more wildlife photos. Only the sheep though, not far from where we had seen them a couple of hours earlier.

Back to the flat for a cup of tea before buying our evening meal at the supermarket – very conveniently five minutes walk away and quite large. It certainly has been a very convenient place to stay and it is beautifully kitted out.

permalink written by  rickandsuejohnson on August 15, 2010 from Jasper, Canada
from the travel blog: Go west, then go west some more.
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Rick and Sue,
We've loved following your blog and loved seeing you once again! It sounds like your journey has been amazing. You'll be ready for some serious relaxation time now. Love Kris, David and Val


permalink written by  the Nyhouts on August 16, 2010


Thanks very much; it was great to meet up with you all again. Have a great holiday yourselves. We're planning to hibernate for a couple of weeks after we get back!!

permalink written by  rickandsuejohnson on August 17, 2010

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