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A Breath of Fresh Air

Mindo, Ecuador


“I am going to unexplored regions, ‘to the land of mist and snow,’ but I shall kill no albatross.”

I read this line from Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein this week and for some reason took quite a liking to it. Though unexplored regions were not on my agenda, a land of mist and clouds was. After my second week of TESOL courses, our group of 8 students and local guide, Jenny, made our way to Mindo--“ the last misty stands of cloud forest on the western Andean slopes” (Lonely Planet).

After a 2-hour bus ride from Quito, we arrived in beautiful and warm Mindo. Our first activity, after getting situated at one of the many hostels in this newly booming eco-tourism hub, was white water tubing. Yes, tubing—not rafting. Six regatas (inner tubes) were tied securely together in the shape of a flower. Five people plus two river guides all piled onto each cluster of tubes. We were given the instructions to hold on tight, lift our feet and lean back if we come upon any rocks (which happens all the time) and to lean forward to avoid being smacked by vines, branches or leaves when nearing the array of flora on either bank of the river.

Though this was only a level 1 rapids river, it was definitely more intense than we’d expected of a tubing adventure. While we had imagined drifting lazily down river in our individual inner tubes, it turned out we were plastered with life vests and helmets and told not to let go of the rope hand holds on either side of our seats (the empty spaces between the tubes).

The guides on my tube cluster were amazing. They never spoke once but always knew what the other was thinking and needed in order to get down river avoiding the huge rocks but still aiming toward the rapids. The water was a nice, cold temperature and I was given a bath a few times over during the numerous tippings to avoid rocks and hit the rapids. Spinning our way down river I was able to watch the tube cluster ahead with some of my other friends. This was particularly hilarious because of the variety of facial expressions. Phil looked as if he were in pain the entire time and I could always hear Colleen’s laugh as water got rough and then smooth again.

I thoroughly enjoyed myself going down the river, conversing with those in my cluster as well as the guide who so helpfully identified these gorgeous flowers hanging from the trees as “flowers.” Lisa and I, who sometimes can’t control our sarcasm, countered by identifying “tree, water, rock” etc and laughing with our guide. He also informed us that the river we were on is the tamest in Mindo. I could’ve gone for a bumpier ride. Next time I’ll have to look into more challenging rapids.

After tubing we visited a butterfly conservation center. This center is for research, education and preservation of the native butterfly species. Along with the natives were also some monarchs who had migrated down for the winter. It is amazing how different all the chrysalises look and how they camouflage into nature, posing as leafs, branches, droplets of water etc. So cool.

In the afternoon we went on a canopy tour—zip lining. This was wicked cool. Not only the speed and freedom you feel while zipping across the valleys and canyons, but the views of the surrounding mountains were incredible. The course was made up of 10 lines, going across various canyons and valleys to give us multiple views and experiences. Some lines were long while others short. My favorite was the “kangaroo” in which the guides at either end pull the lines down to make you bounce up and down as you glide across the open space. Though given tasks to keep you on track and slowing down enough to land, it was hard to concentrate with the amazing greenery surrounding me. During each ride I could feel my mouth agape in pure awe of my surroundings. This is a beautiful ecosystem. On one of the rides I was connected to the instructor in “superman” formation and literally flying across the open space, rather than the usual seated position. Chevere.

That evening we attended a frog concert at the local frog education and research center where we encountered many species of frogs and toads and heard their insistent calls. This center has helped to create a safe environment for the frogs and the number of species to habituate the area has now grown astronomically—from the terrible 2 species 3 years ago to now about 20. Sweet. We were also given a tour of the frog pond, spotting some of the cuties we were hearing. We also were taken into the woods surrounding the area to try and spot more tree frogs but also other common animals to this part. Like the giant cockroach which is at least as long as my hand. Yuck. We also saw some cute snakes and spiders. Another aspect of this environment we learned about is the existence of a micobacteria of a certain type of wood that glows in the dark after exposure to light. It looked so cool.

That was Satuday. It was a long, full day. On Sunday we rose early and set off for the waterfall. There are many waterfalls in Mindo. With our guides, one of whom is a birdwatching and nature guide, we hiked up a wicked steep trail, stopping along the way to learn about native flora and fauna. As well as ascending the slippery, winding trails we also traversed a rock wall (with the aid of a tow rope) to reach the top. Down the road a bit was the entrance to one of the waterfalls in the area, but don’t ask me which. Another 500 meters down, around, up and down again, across a wobbly two plank bridge to reach the other side of the river and we were there. The waterfall was beautiful and the water nice and crisp.

One of the motivations in coming here (other than the refreshing hike and splendid natural surroundings) was this waterfall and a lovely ledge from which to jump.

Upon arriving, the door opening the path between the rickety ladder to climb back up from below was closed. And we were bummed. Though most, after seeing the distance had changed their minds, Phil and I were still trying to find a way to fit this experience in. Luckily our guide inquired multiple times on our behalf and had the door/ladder opened. While we prepared to jump, the other girls were repelling down rocks alongside the waterfall to jump from the 20ft rock into the churning water below. It looked cool, but we were set on this jump. Phil was the first daredevil of the day and jumped nearly three quarters the way across the river at the base of the waterfall. I was warned not to jump quite that far out. So off I went, plunging down the approx. 50 feet to the deliciously chill water below. Such a rush! Carried down river by the force of the waterfalls, I quickly reached the shallow bank and the built in ladder straight up the cliff. Once I reached the ladder I climbed right back up to go again. It was so much fun.

Unfortunately when I arrived at the top, bad news awaited me. Phil had accidentally kicked my camera case (including extra gig memory card) over the edge. He then jumped down after it, to try to locate it, and I joined. A good jump again, but not quite the same great feeling now that I was on a search and rescue mission. Or should I say a failed search and rescue mission. My case is long gone. But at least my camera was not inside; it was being used to document all these water adventures. So sometime I should be able to get a few photos up.

This hike was definitely my highlight for the weekend. The entire weekend was incredible though. I was just so thankful to be outside in nature again, away from the bustle of the city and pollution from the cars and buses. The pollution in the city is terrible. To be able to breathe again in Mindo was incredible. To walk around and enjoy every moment, bliss. But of course, we couldn’t walk everywhere. Our favorite alternate mode of transportation was by truck. Our guides would roll up in their white pickup and we’d all pile in the bed, holding on to the guard rails for balance as we zipped down the streets. Swerving to and fro to dodge pot holes, man holes, dogs, cars, people, etc we were given a full body workout trying to stay upright. We were also kept on our toes because as we swerved to avoid an obstacle we’d go right into the tree line and usually we ducked in time to miss serious damage. The fresh air during these travels, the great views and the constant entertainment were thrilling. Though we did learn that if you applied bug spray with DEET before getting into the truck, you were more likely to disembark with some of the paint on your body rather than on the truck. A small price to pay, really. Bug spray was entirely necessary. And even though I practically bathed in it over and over again, I was still eaten alive. Laura and I have welts all over our legs from massive amounts of bug bites. Jenny has a trail of bites down her left arm. Everyone else came out fine—protected by those of us who weren’t as lucky. =( But this is nothing new—I’ve always been devoured by biting bugs. Oh well. As long as the itchiness and swelling goes down soon I’ll be fine. I certainly wouldn’t trade the experience of the weekend for anything.


permalink written by  Theresa on September 15, 2008 from Mindo, Ecuador
from the travel blog: Adventures in Teaching and Living in Ecuador
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wow poca, that sounds like quite the fun adventure. of course you had to find a way to jump off that waterfall! and when you upload those photos you better have documented that exotic "flower" from the river. ;)

xoxo

permalink written by  Liz on September 15, 2008

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