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First Day

Christchurch, New Zealand


Hi my name is Jake Carling and I'm in Antarctica. This is my first blog entry and I have a lot to catch up on. I wanted to let some friends and family know where I am. Today I departed for McMurdo Station from the traditional Antarctic launch pad of Christchurch, New Zealand. Early explorers Shackleton and Scott both used this area as a departure point for their expeditions and the tradition continues for the United States Antarctic Program. We had waited in the second largest city in New Zealand for the previous three days because of bad weather. Not that I cared.

I like taking vacation on the company dime. Each night our room was paid for and an $80 stipend was allotted. From cliff-side beaches to wandering paths among blooming flowers in the botanical gardens, to culinary cuisines from across the globe, Christchurch is a spectacular city. I felt like it was a modern version of what people behaved like in America before the advent of television and a lust of materialism, power, and flashiness. The people are honest, kind, and helpful. The city spectacularly beautiful, clean, and safe. I can't wait to see the rest of the South Island.

We loaded up gear this morning and left for the ice. Soon the light streaming in the two windows of the C-130 became intense. I needed glacier sunglasses to look out of the porthole. Down below I imagined I was flying over the surface of the moon, luminous cracked, and pockmarked. It stretched for miles and miles until soon we landed. We I climbed out of the plane the scene took my breath away.

A brilliantly blue cloudless sky met and endless sea of white on the horizon. Jagged mountain peaks erupted from the flat landscape in several directions. A plume of vapor hung over the 12,500 foot cone of Mount Erebus, the worlds southern most active volcano. Frost bellowed from my nostrils with each exhale, but I embraced the cold with a smile on my face. We loaded up in transport where we received an orientation and were given room assignments. My room has about 20 bunk beds. No worries though because tomorrow I leave for the South Pole where I'll have my own room. I think.



permalink written by  JCinTheSouthPole on November 5, 2009 from Christchurch, New Zealand
from the travel blog: South Pole
tagged JakeCarling

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Roaches at the Pole?

Christchurch, New Zealand


Friday night when I finally approached the place they call Summer Camp, because it's where all of the summer contractors sleep, it was very late and my body felt fatigued from the constant travel, altitude, and cold. The jamesway structures, comprising the small village, houses about 125 people. I found mine and opened the door to locate bed # 8. I shuffled down a dark hallway with the light from the front doorway became dimmer and dimmer until it was almost pitch black. I fumbled around , locating a curtain and opened it with an outstretched arm so I wouldn't hit my face on something.

I found a light switch and turned it on to see my surroundings. It was a small room made out of plywood with a curtain for a door. I thought I had limited space in Brooklyn but this was about half that size, maybe 42 square feet. There was a single bed, rickety dresser with an alan wrench protruding for a handle, and a small chair with a slight walkway in between. It didn't look vacuumed and all of the furnishings were old and well used. Every time I shifted something on the floor I fully expected for cockroaches to start scattering toward the walls seeking cover. It finally dawned on me that there was no insects here. Even seemingly indestructible roaches are no match for constant sub zero temperatures. Will I be?

One good thing I discovered was the bathroom is a mere 15 second run from my front door. That is if i run. I do not wish to tarry long without gear. I found that out the hard way. But should have flipped through my mental index to when I was a child and my mother used to take me up in the Wasatch Mountain to teach me how to ski. I listened to her instruction on how to snow plow, traverse and read the terrain. As one would expect living in the Rockies, snow storms and high winds were part of the learning process. I had to figure out how to protect myself from the elements and prepare for quick changes in temperature and weather.

A fundamental principle she stressed was to dress in layers. That way if the air was frigid you already had enough clothing on to shield yourself. Then if it became too hot you could simply remove an existing layer. At first she had to help me put on the additional bulky clothing and click in and out of my ski bindings. I watched until I could gear up to perfection myself. Here at the South Pole, there will be a learning curve to figure out how much layering will ultimately be needed for my comfort. This morning I took the walk to the station with jeans, sneakers and a skimpy Kenneth Cole jacket. I could have survived the walk with these items but made one painful mistake. No head protection. Exposed skin doesn't last long with temperatures being fifty below zero.

I could feel my face starting to burn. Each deep breathe made me cough as if I were a chronic smoker. The air was too cold for my lungs and throat. The tips of my ears began to sting. My brain started going into a weird panic that I haven't experience, even though I knew I was going to be okay. The building was within my grasp. But still I felt nauseous. I thought how horrible it would be to freeze to death. Finally, I looked around to see if there were any people out. My ego got the best of me and I didn't want any of my coworkers to see what I was about to do. When I saw the coast was clear I started running. I couldn't get the station fast enough. I huffed up the stairs and slammed the door opened and looked back, double checking no one was out there behind me.

I zipped into the bathroom to blow my nose and my face was as red as if I had been at a Vegas swimming pool in July without sunscreen. Never again will I leave without a balaclava. The rest of my body was cold but tolerable. The bare skin, however, was in pain. Tomorrow I start work. It won't merely be a seven minute walk, but a prolonged eight hours of vulnerability in the elements. I can't wait. I'm just going to wear lots of layers like my mom taught me so many years ago.




permalink written by  JCinTheSouthPole on November 7, 2009 from Christchurch, New Zealand
from the travel blog: South Pole
tagged JakeCarling

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