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Seoul, South Korea


The weekend ended up holding innumerable adventures. After the internet cafe on Saturday, Adam and I walked through one portion of the downtown of Yangju to get back to the Lotte Mart from the night before. After taking inventory of my apartment, I realized that I had forgotten some of the essentials, the first being a towel! As much fun as air drying is in the summer heat, my guess is that my feelings will change come the Korean winter. The downtown of Yangju (which actually means 'Western liquor' in Korean) is luckily enough right up the hill from our building. Oh, the location of the building is in a really interesting part of town. While the majority of Koreans in any sort of urban area live in high rise apartment complexes, we live in a little village within a big city. There is only one tall building, and the rest don't exceed five stories. Some buildings are apartment structures, some are really old, small, one-story houses. My aparment is in one of the newer buildings, on the second floor. And luckily enough, my view is of the windowless side wall of the tall one. I really don't mind, because I still get a lot of light and the windows in the hallway have an amazing view of the neighborhood, but it's still funny! Oh, and throughout all of the buildings are little shops with apartments upstairs. They're all little cafes and markets. But when I say cafe, don't think of a Panera, but instead of a little room with a couple of tables and one person doing the cooking and serving, usually (from what I can tell) to their family members and close friends.

Back to the trek to Lotte Mart. There is a marshy, stream-like river that runs through the city, cutting off what seems to be the older half from the newer. After walking through the older downtown, we crossed the river and managed to get to the store. I bet it was at least a half hour walk. On the way we kept seeing spiders the size of silver dollars (NO exageration) dangling from the telephone wires, and I was so so scared that one was going to fall on my shoulder. Silly perhaps, but I have never in my life seen spiders so big, and was beyond freaked out. We spent a couple of hours at the store, getting necessities like plastic silverware (which we later saw said meant for outside dessert parties) and the like. I wanted to buy shampoo, but was once again accosted by a saleslady who tried to sell me literally FIVE tubs of Pantene Pro-V. She wouldn't let me take anything else, and I couldn't tell her I would never use that much even over a year, so in the end I accepted her generous sales offer (she even shoved a kitchen sponge in the tape as an added bonus!) only to drop the shampoo in the wine section of the grocery store. Oh, and the funniest part is we had to walk past her again to get to the registers, and she looked in the cart, didn't see the Pantene, and scowled as we walked by. I guess not all Koreans will be my friends.

Yesterday we took the train into downtown Seoul for the day. Imagine two Americans trying to figure out the subway system without even a map to guide them! Luckily, we got smart and paged up "map" in Adam's dictionary and managed to the the map that had 'FOREIGNER' stamped in big letters on practically every side. It was only about a fourty minute train ride to the center (or what we thought was) of Seoul, which really wasn't that bad. We quickly saw the Korean culture at work, as the train was practically an example of musical chairs. Anytime a person got on that was older than someone sitting down, the younger person would stand up, the older would sit down, and so the cycle would repeat. So if a still older person got on at the next, the only kind of old person would get up and give up their seat. Hilarious to watch, but a great reminder of the different culture we are in. As a side note, we've been getting a lot of looks for being Westerners. None of them have been in a bad way, but more of like a curiousity.

Once in Seoul, we walked through a random plant market that went on for blocks and blocks before turning to attempt to get downtown. This attempt became an all-day ordeal, as all of the roads kept winding up, down, and around mountains within the city and we had no exact directions on where to go. We ended up climbing a mountain that had the National Assembly of Music or something of the sort on top, along with a HUGE building the specialized in weddings! It even had a photo booth where newly married couples could wait in line to get their pictures taken. Very different from home. Once we got on the other side, after about an hour, we hit an area called Itewon, or something similar, which is where many American military and their families go for a taste of home. Imagine the weirdest place in an American downtown you've been, and multiply it by, a lot. Some of the stores were in English on the main street, still with the winding alleys off of each side, yet there were American restaurant chains at the center. Stuff like Papa Johns, Quiznos, Outback Steakhouse, Coldstone, the list could keep going. Yet the majority of the people were still Korean who apparently come to the area to sightsee. In their own city. There were also a lot of French bistro-themed restaurants, surprisingly enough. We strolled down a street lined with tiny antique shops (Mom, you would have freaked) to get down to the really windy old section of the city. I was so amazed by how tiny many of the streets were, with shops and signs lining alleys that had clothes hanging from one to the other. SO cool! I know that Seoul advertises itself as a modern and advanced city, which is true, but there iss still a large physical history. We never made it to the modern downtown, but I had more fun meandering through the web of the past than I think I could have had in the concrete grid. We ended up getting to the river and strolling in a park that was created directly underneath the highway, but right on the water. I've never seen such a better use of space, but I guess in a city that has no choice to build out but only up, it made perfect sense. The end of the day was spent in search of the coveted metro station that would get us home, which ended up being in no joke, the biggest mall I've ever seen in my life. So big that they had an outdoor concert area on the top. HUGE!

I'm currently at my new school. The one English teacher at the middle school that I will be working with is gone for the day, so I've had a lot of fun learning new Korean words and practicing my international hand sign language all day. I really don't have anything to do, they told me to sit at my desk and amuse myself, and just gave me my official work laptop a little bit ago. So naturally, I'm emailing you guys. They encouraged me to do so. But so weird, get this, instead of each teacher having their individual classroom, all the students have their assigned rooms, and the teachers move around to whichever class they have to teach. So, each teacher has one assigned subject, and they all share a big room with the vice principle for desk space. And I have my very own desk. Oh yeah! Not only a bigger apartment but a personal desk. Obviously moving up in the world! :) They've all tried to be accommodating to someone who can't speak their language. I think I've received five soft drinks from the desks of different teachers, pineapple cookies, a thing of highlighters, and a notebook from different people. Even though I'm learning new words faster than I can remember them, the language thing is a barrier, but one that has only added extra spark to the day. Oh, and the old art teacher showed me all of his drawings! And when I say all, I mean all five full portfolios! The school is in the countryside, about a twenty minute drive from my apartment. It's so beautiful! There are rice paddies in the fields that run up to the sides of the mountains. Really, even though this is the area in which people live, and not meant to be left natural, the combination of the high mountains surrounding every valley is absolutely breathtaking. The drive over was kind of early (8), and everything was still covered in mist. There were Korean graves interspersed in the hills and along the road with memorial temples dedicated to the wealthy. Everything here is already surpassing any expectations I previously had. And instead of a playground or area in between the middle and highschool, it's a garden. With fountains and well-kept bushes and flowers. Last thing, they have the students to the janitorial work! Bathrooms (that's an entire email in and of itself) to gardens, it's all done by students. I'll never undervalue a janitor ever again.


permalink written by  Rachel in Korea! on September 1, 2008 from Seoul, South Korea
from the travel blog: South Korea, 2008-2009
tagged First, Seoul and NamMun

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Teachers

Seoul, South Korea


All of the teachers have been so helpful as I become acclamated to life in a South Korean middle school. They were even nice enough to allow me to take a picture of the teacher's lounge, so that you might have a better idea where exactly I work.

permalink written by  Rachel in Korea! on September 1, 2008 from Seoul, South Korea
from the travel blog: South Korea, 2008-2009
tagged NamMun

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Photo Shoot

Seoul, South Korea


I was a model today. Sort of.

I figured today would be normal. Korean class, Korean teachers, Korean dinner, Korean soju...but Korean photo shoot? My co-teacher asked me if I'd be willing to help over at the high school right next door. Of course, happy to help and eager to make a good impression and perhaps make a crack in the relatively closed off Korean society, I said of course! Then, leading me up the stairs of the high school and into the teacher's lounge, I realized something else might be coming. A man with an overly large camera for mere amusement was standing there with a guilty, goofy grin on his face that gave my new assignment away. I was told that Adam and myself were going to be the subjects of the photo shoot upstairs, to be used in their school publication and brochure to lure in new students. I could just see it, a wickedly up-close picture of the two of us with a headline that read, "Look! We have Americans too!" Whatever the case, I smiled inside and thought to myself, "Bring it".

We were led upstairs to their private school bar. Oh yes, the school has a bar. Not only do they have a bar, but they have stocked it with real bottles of Western liquor with which selected students practice their pouring skills. Seating us at a table out of the way of the scene before us, Adam and I were able to sit back and watch the madness unfold. Four students had dressed themselves up in their official bartender uniforms, and were primping themselves in the bedroom in the corner. One teacher kept running back and forth between the corner kitchen and the bar counter, shouting what we could only assume were orders back and forth between the students, the onlooking teachers, and the photographer. A checkered tablecloth had been set for two, complete with enough silverware to last me a week, and an ashtray, "to make us feel truly comfortable," according to one of the teachers.

Adam and I were eventually motioned to sit at the bar, on plastic barstools that looked like an awkward '60's mod-style comeback gone wrong. Choosing a liquor, the bartender poured Adam a healthy amount of Bacardi 151 with two ice cubes to boot.

My own glass was poured over the course of the next ten minutes, drop by drop, as the photographer tried to get us from every angle and face expression possible. I think he managed to pull it off! One at a time, Adam and I myself were placed with the student bartenders and ordered to converse with them. They didn't speak English and we sure can't form a Korean sentence yet, so we decided to sing to them.

(Even better, not only can the schools advertise that they have real Americans that speak English, but they can SING too! Heck, we might as well start our own one-man-show and REALLY show them all of our skills... "Ahem. Please gape at my overly large American feet. Stand next to me and see if you come up to my hip. Marvel at me eating a cheeseburger..." The Koreans make me realize how talented I really am!)

Anyways, after the bar scene we were shuffled to the checkerboard tablecloth, where more photographing ensued. The photographer, vice principal, and some random man off the street communicated to us in gestures: *Pick up the glass!* *No, not that one, the other glass!* *Now sniff it!* *Why are you sniffing your glass, drink it you fools!* *Obviously there's nothing in there, you American brutes!* *Just pretend!* *What's so funny?!* *Do I hear humming?!* *Oh forget it, just smile and say, I mean sing, "kimchi"!*

And that was my one, and probably only, Korean modeling experience.



permalink written by  Rachel in Korea! on September 3, 2008 from Seoul, South Korea
from the travel blog: South Korea, 2008-2009
tagged NamMun

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One More Time, Baby!

Seoul, South Korea


Last night was a special night. A very special night.

Earlier in the week I was invited to a welcome dinner for the new foreign language teachers. I was told that the principle was so impressed with our first impression that she wanted to host an official dinner to welcome us to Korea. So, in true Korean fashion, an upscale sushi restaurant was chosen.

What an event! The dinner began at 5:30 and didn't finish until after 9. Even before the any of the food was brought to the table, soju bottles appeared and the principle along with the two vice principles of the schools offered up welcoming speeches and toasts. Unfortunately they were all in Korean but I guessed they were directed at us due to the continuous stares in our direction, and the mumbling of our names in the speeches. Either way, I was extremely impressed with the formalities exhibited by all of the teachers and administrators, who, while solemn in the dictates of tradition, were cheerful to the occasion and made us feel openly welcome to their group.

Then the food began...octopus, pocheon (a spicy Korean flat bread with vegetables), snails, cabbage salad, fried sweet potatoes, paper-thin slices of shrimp on rice balls, raw skate drowned in sweet pepper relish, a whole cooked fish we all picked off of with our chopsticks, and rice soup. The sushi was next, with heaps of raw fish, more than I could even count. Asking what much of it was, the Koreans were unable to translate most of the pieces, but were able to tell me: live sea worm, live earshell, salmon, innumerable types of whitefish, and a plate of oddballs, none of which I could identify but all of which I sampled. Then came the seaweed cones, which were leaves of seaweed stuffed with rice, cucumber, caviar, and hot pepper. These were followed by a version of seafood kimchi soup served over rice. The meal finished with a cold tea with hints of cinnamon and parsimmon.

Throughout the meal, shots of soju were taken. This tradition was somewhat confusing for me. On one hand, I wanted to be polite

and thus didn't want to refuse their offers, but by the end I could feel the effects, and, as a woman, realized it's extremely inappropriate for women to show signs of drunkenness in public. While the men kept drinking, I began to politely refuse all of the offers to pour me more. This became a pefect position from which to observe the effects of soju on Korean men. As the meal kept progressing, they began slapping each other and singing American song lyrics as a form of entertainment. Imagine a straight-edge English teacher popping to his feet to serenade us with Britney Spears, "One More Time, Baby!" All of the lyrics were wrong, but in the end it was even funnier to hear American pop lyrics butchered mercilessly in Korean accents.

Overall, the meal was an absolute blast and circus all rolled into one. Despite the language barrier encountered with a few of the administrators, many laughs and smiles were shared. I'm beginning to understand the meaning behind the statement that offering a smile is speaking in the universal language that all people can understand. Evidence and examples of the traditions of Korea were numerous, and although I didn't understand all of them, went along with as much as I could, hoping that soon I will understand. But really, when surrounded by welcoming smiles, how can one possibly feel anything but content?



permalink written by  Rachel in Korea! on September 4, 2008 from Seoul, South Korea
from the travel blog: South Korea, 2008-2009
tagged Food and NamMun

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The Simplicity of Gratitude

Seoul, South Korea


Inch by inch (or should I say centimeter by centimeter?), I am slowly being introduced to all of the various aspects and customs of Korean daily life.

Last night Adam and I had the pleasure of being invited over to the high school gym teacher's home for dinner with his family. Wanting to bring something as a gesture to say thanks, we asked both of our co-teachers what the proper gift is. And get this: whenever Koreans go over to each other's homes for dinner, the traditional thing to bring is boxes and boxes of tissues. The teacher that we went with brought SIX boxes. (As a sidenote, whenever anyone has a housewarming party, typically about 90% of the guests bring the lucky family laundry detergent. Where do they put it all?!)

We didn't exactly feel like adding to what I can only assume is an overstuffed closet bursting with tissue boxes, so we decided to play up the foreigner card and bring a cake. Yet what was supposed to be a fallback on our blissful vision of normalcy became instead a clash of cultures. When we went to the bakery to pick out our offering of gratitude, the lady behind the counter kept asking how old our baby was turning! After unsuccessfully insisting that the cake was not going to be for the birthday of our nonexistent child, I finally caved in and accepted the pushy woman's offering of a candle for the fateful moment of presentation. But, with a twinkle in her eye, she outfitted our cake with FIVE candles and TWO noisemakers. Not to mention the decoration of two hearts stuck in the middle of the cake with "Sweet Love" splashed between the two. If I had been able to stop laughing, I might have noticed how nice of a presentation it would have been for the make-believe baby.

The dinner itself was delicious. Mrs. Chae, the wife of the gym teacher, made a dish called bulgogi, which is apparently quite the hit with foreigners. As much as I hate falling into stereotypes, I fell into this one as if it were meant to be. The dish consists of thin strips of beef simmered with onions, carrots, and innumerable spices, served with bean rice. Mmmmm. The food continued to be served and the conversation was lively. It grew more and more boisterous as the alcohol continued to be served. Mr. Chae was very proud of his collection, boasting that he had over 30 different types of liquor. A strong Catholic, he perceived much of his controlled drinking as a way to stay healthy. I quickly understood why... The traditional soju was served, but other, more interesting drinks followed. First there was the fruit drink, which tasted like an extremely strong, aged port. To him, he claimed, since he couldn't taste the alcohol, it wasn't alcoholic. Huh, who knew? Next came the most popular liquor of Taiwan, which he picked up during his travels. At 58%, it burned the entire way down, but I somehow managed a smile amidst the choking. Last was the most interesting. Most likely something that I will never, ever, even if I wanted to, forget. It came from a 3-liter case in the back corner of the cabinet, reserved for special occasions and, as he was proud to share, aged for three years. It was some sort of homemade concoction that had now-colorless white carrots fermenting at the bottom. It tasted like a mixture of sweet potatoes and seafood all at the same time, and I was secretly pleaing that there were no shrimp sharing the same fate as the carrots. Whew! I managed to get it down! That moment I felt almost as proud as when I managed to swallow boiled tofu in front of the teachers, with only minor gagging.

Thoughts of the carrot conconction from hell were quickly erased once the dinner had finished and the five year old twins were allowed to play. While eating the cake that we had brought (which tasted like marshmallows), the twins decided to make Adam and myself their personal playtime assistants. Sooo much fun! While the adults were glued to the TV to learn about the latest developments in North Korea, we chose to remain somewhat oblivious to the troubles of the world and instead remember what it was like to be amused by the some of the purest pleasures life has to offer.

Don't you wish life could always be so simple?



permalink written by  Rachel in Korea! on September 10, 2008 from Seoul, South Korea
from the travel blog: South Korea, 2008-2009
tagged NamMun

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ADDRESS!!

Seoul, South Korea


It's official! I now have a mailing address!!

Fiction: I actually don't have a mailing address to call my own. BUT,
Fact: I'm mooching off of the oh-so-generous Koreans at my school and using theirs instead. Take THAT, Korea!

How do I know this is right? Because the parents were the first brave souls to attempt what seemed to be the impossible: sending precious gifts of English books over the Pacific. And, I found out exactly one hour ago on the minute, it actually worked. Even though the address is in the Latin script. Ohh, how I love the globalization of the English language! Not only has it given me a job in a foreign country where I have no clue the exact reason why I'm here, but it also allows me and everyone back home the privilege of not even having to attempt writing in Korean. Go us.

Technically there is still the address of my apartment, but I have a feeling that one is not to be trusted. Why, you might ask? Refer to the points listed below:
1. The Entrance to the mailbox is a slit less than one centimeter wide.
2. The slit is proven pointless when one realizes that all one has to do is open the mailbox. It opens for everyone.
3. The box itself is rather small. Maybe big enough for a Chipotle burrito with chicken, guacamole, corn salsa, cheese, and sour cream, but that's it. Not as though that's a hint. :)
4. Packages do not seem to be allowed in the building. There is nowhere for them to be put, shoved, or otherwise dealt with.

Regardless, the one at the school seems to work fine. I will continue to bribe the administration to give me packages in exchange for homebaked cookies. These function as their weight in gold over here! Ohhh, Korea.

permalink written by  Rachel in Korea! on October 9, 2008 from Seoul, South Korea
from the travel blog: South Korea, 2008-2009
tagged NamMun

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