I also spent some time enjoying the pool at my guesthouse (the only guesthouse to offer a pool!). But I also did some sightseeing in Bangkok and was particularly taken by Wat Pho and Wat Arun. Honestly, just when you think you've seen enough temples for a liftetime. Just when you think you are done. Bam! Wat Pho with it's intricate details and Wat Arun with it's granite like look, blows you away.

I also enjoyed some time at Luipini Park where the photo of the giant lizard was taken. Masses of locals gather in the evenings to take part in synchronized dancing to house music. It's mainly older people and quite a spectacle.

I also visited the Grand Palace, also stunning. And after a night of night marketing, my time in Thailand came to an end. Today, I arrived in Singapore, where my trip began. It's wonderful to see friends Mesh and Abby again. And surreal to be easing back into civilization (where I don't have to worry about the contents of a drink and eating raw veggies are safe).

And so the trip draws to an end. At the beginning of this journey I felt the time I had allotted was far too much. I wasn't sure how I would get through being away from Porl and my family (especially my nephew with his daily changings). And yet now, at the end of my trip, I feel it was just the right amount of time away. Just long enough for me to rediscover myself, to find Maria again (not just Maria of Maria and Porl). And time enough to know that I can still enjoy an adventure or two in life.

Mesh asked me tonight what the highlights of my trip were and it was simple: the people. The locals I encountered were so kind, so helpful, so easygoing. They always offered a smile even if they didn't understand what was being communicated. They would stop to give directions even if they couldn't speak a stitch of English. They would offer you a chair to sit inside their shop while torrential rain came down.

I was impressed and touched by the warmth I received. It truly was an experience. Of course, there was the scenery, the piercing green rice fields, the soaring mountains, the winding Mekong River.

Things I will not miss, however, include (in no particular order): leeches (okay, maybe in some kind of order), ants, mysterious bugs in showers, hard mattresses and even harder pillows, scratchy towels and punishing heat.

I could not have done this trip without several things: Music (a huge shout out to the shuffle feature, Kings of Leon, James and Home Video -- if you don't know Home Video, go to Pandora and check them out). A sense of humor (to laugh it off when the locals hack up loogies every 15 minutes during an 8-hour bus trip or stop every 5 minutes). And, of course, most importantly, this trip would not have happened if not for the gentle nudge and unwaivering support of Porl. For that I am grateful. Thank you.

And thank you for those who have kept up with the blog (my apologies if my entries were not as poetic as I would have liked). And thanks to those who emailed regularly and checked in.

I am sad to leave this easygoing vibe. This simple pace. But I am looking forward to seeing family and friends.

See you soon,

Nuttter.

AT HOME:
Too tired to move anything but the lambswool poly urathane applicator for the second coat on the bedroom floor. Back to my day job this week so not much is going on except making this mess of a house just slightly more livable for Nuttter's return. Hmmmm, should get some food in and move the beer out of the upstairs fridge SHARPISH!

Groovespook

written by  Groovespook on August 25 from Singapore, Singapore
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade
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AT HOME:

Groovespook.

written by  Groovespook on August 23 from Bangkok, Thailand
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade
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Nuttter.

AT HOME:

I arrived in Siem Reap and with my dirty clothes and backpack, took a tuk-tuk to a five-star hotel. I asked the bellboy if I was the first backpack he's ever carried. He said yes. Too funny. Had a bath!!! then met Virag, the man behind these luxurious digs. Was so good to see him and to chat and catch up.

The following morning we tackled the beast that is Angkor. We went to the two "main" temples, Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom. Truly amazing feats of architecture.....every inch of stone seems to have an intricate carving (and I have the photos to prove it!).

The following day saw crazy me leave the hotel at 4:50 a.m. to catch sunrise at Angkor Wat. I waited with what felt like the papparazi and there was nothing to see! It was overcast so it was anticlimatic. The good part was being there in the early morning when not as many people are around. It was so peaceful and awe-inspiring to go past Angkor Thom in emptiness. What I thought would be a half day visit turned into an all-out marathon (I think because I didn't have Virag with me to be the voice of reason). I didn't leave the grounds until 6:30! The tuk-tuk driver (who slept during my temple visits) said I was a strong lady (I think he meant crazy). Unfortunately, I really overdid it and can't even think the word temple!

Today has been a day off of sorts. Virag and I visited two sites. One where you can see people making various stone and wood carvings and silk screen paintings. Then we went to a silkworm farm where we saw and learned about the whole silk making process. It was unbelievable. I ate a silkworm while Virag looked on in disgust (for those wondering, it tastes like corn).

Tomorrow I might go back to the temples (I bought a three-day pass) or I might not. It all depends on how I feel. My legs hurt just walking up regular stairs so that's not a good sign!

Nuttter

AT HOME:

I continue today and hope to have all doors in place and start some spackling on the ceilings.

Groovespook

written by  Groovespook on August 18 from Siem Reap, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade
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And so I left Krache for Cambodia's capital, Phnom Penh. Surprisingly, the bus arrived ON TIME. Crazy. Cambodia has such a different personality to laid-back Laos. You can see it just in the driving. Instead of mainly motorbikes and tuk-tuks, Cambodia's streets are occupied with SUVs (Lexus and Toyotas are quite popular) that scream down the streets packed with people. The roads are pretty much all paved so there is no game of miss-the-pothole. But the two countries do share similarities. They are full of such kind, helpful people. Always with a smile.

I arrived in Phnom Penh not sure what to expect. Quite a few travelers I've met along the way have had a lot of negative things to say about it (it's polluted, the traffic is nuts, it's dirty, it's too busy, etc.). But Phnom Penh and I got along just fine. Yes, the traffic is nuts but in an entertaining way (for me anyway). Picture New York City traffic except instead of yellow cabs you have motorbikes, cars and SUVs. And no traffic lights! It's complete craziness but somehow it works.

On my first full day there I spent most of the day on the back of a motorbike (it's the best way to get to the sights). So, for $10, I had my own driver from 9:30 until about 5. I wish I could have put a camera to my helmet because words cannot do justice to the traffic. There are no rules, you just go and people let you in. It was quite funny to see Chi, my driver, make a left-hand turn into the lanes with on-coming traffic. He would just continue zipping along until he could glide into the right lane. And intersections are amazing to watch! Cars and motorbikes edge forward to either cross a highway or turn into it and they keep edging out until they are in the way of oncoming traffic. I will say it was a bit unnerving to see a van or car heading straight for us. But, as you can tell from this email, I survived. I also wore a helmet. There was a moment when I was a bit fearful but after passing a motorbike with a male driver with two kids and a woman, that moment passed. There's me hanging on tightly while women passengers sit sidesaddle. Too funny. It was like being a part of a Bourne Identity chase scene.

On a more serious note, I went to visit two places that shed light on Cambodia's past. The first stop, S-21 was a former school that the Khmer Rouge turned into a holding cell/torture chamber during the 1970s. It was truly a somber and sad thing to witness but one that I felt was necessary. It's always one thing to read about history but to stand right where it happened, to see what was done, drives the point home. From there I went to The Killing Fields. This is where people who didn't die in s-21 and other victims were brought daily to be killed. They were told to kneel before a shallow mass grave before a blunt instrument was used to knock them out and into the grave where there throats were then slit. Just awful. Again, a somber experience.

From Phnom Penh I took an "air-conditioned" bus to Batdambang (northward bound). You know it's hot when the locals start fanning themselves. It was five hours of stuffiness which led to me splurging on an air-conditioned room. Truth be told, I enjoy the rooms with just a fan. It works for me. But after that bus ride, AC was on the menu!

Batdambang is a compact little place. Lots of old French buildings along a peaceful riverfront. My cooking class was good fun (I didn't burn down the place). There were eight of us and we cooked three meals although we all agreed we wouldn't be able to remember it! Thankfully we got cookbooks at the end.

Today I spent a lovely couple of hours cycling outside of Batdambang. It was such a gorgeous ride, winding roads shaded by coconut tree leaves. Again, the kids make such excursions well worth it. They always yell out hello or wave or run after you.

Tomorrow I am heading to Siem Reap. I am taking a boat. Leaves at 7 a.m. and takes about 5-6 hours. Have heard it's a very scenic ride, but I've also heard they pack in passengers. And then there is the sun....although it's a covered boat, you can opt to sit on the roof (which many people say is the best for viewing and space). So, let the chips fall where they may!

It's sinking in that my trip is coming to an end. It seems like the days are quickly passing by. While I will miss it, I'm looking forward to seeing everyone.

Until next time!

Nuttter.

AT HOME:
An enormous 10 yard long container (a "skip") gets dropped in our driveway this weekend that will spell T H E E N D for the 45 black bags of concrete debris and old gnarly pieces of "de-nailed" wood (yes, I de-nail my debris) that has lined our porch for the last 3 weeks. It also marks the ACTUAL beginning of SHEETROCKING. Only 3 weeks behind schedule. I have taken the next week off work completely to really dig in and get some serious sanding and spackling done. I hope that by Wednesday I will have all the sheetrocking up and can start working on the floors whilst spackling like a...spackler?

written by  Groovespook on August 14 from Batdambang, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade
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Nuttter slaved over an ancient computer last night/this morning and has gifted us all with a few more visual snippets of her travels. Yay.

I know that she probably does not want me to post the "Pig-Mart" shot from the Umbrella mall in Cambodia but I am not the only meat lover amongst us! Vegetarians shield your eyes!

AT HOME:

Video shoot in NYC today so my dried and damaged hands get a (sort of) break. ELECTRICITY IS FINISHED AND ON!!!!!!!

Groovespook.

written by  Groovespook on August 9 from Kracheh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade
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There is a food market down the road that sells all sorts of fruits and vegetables and meats and what looks like body parts at times. There is an assault of smells and noise and grit. It's a scrappy place with buildings that look slightly charred and side roads swimming in litter. Kids "play" by burning styrofoam or plastic. Despite this, I've fallen for Cambodia. The people have been very friendly, quick with a smile. Kids run up and say hello. And it's definitely a busy place compared to the sleepy 4,000 islands.

Opposite the market (figuratively and literally) is the Mekong River that is showcased along a lovely promenade with decorative lamps.

Nuttter.

AT HOME:
Just pottering on. Very lazily today.

written by  Groovespook on August 8 from Kracheh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade
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Tadlo

I was going to leave Tadlo after my first day/night there. Tadlo is a small, sleepy, relaxing spot known for its three waterfalls, two of which can be explored within half an hour. On my first day there that is just what I did. The third waterfall was an hour away by road and I just wasn't in the mood to be walking on a road for that long...didn't seem very scenic.

In the morning, I packed my bag and went to have breakfast. Started chatting to a couple in the place who went for an elephant ride at Tadlo Lodge (which offers lovely bungalows either right alongside one of the waterfalls or right ON TOP of it). And it will set you back a whopping $35 a night. It was much too romantic for a solo stay). At any rate, this couple really enjoyed the elephant ride so I looked into it. Then the owner of the restaurant asked if I was interested in doing a guided trek. I'm not a huge fan of guided treks here mainly because I'd much rather go off on my own and because they tend to bring you into villages where you stare at locals and they stare at you...it feels a bit too voyeuristic for my tastes.

But I was in the mood to interact with others and a French couple were going. So, I unpacked my bag, put on my hiking boots and went on the tour. The funny thing is at the restaurant, there were signs touting the tour "Take trek with English speaking guide, learn about Lao people and their working habits!"

Well, our guide was the restaurant owner's father, a lovely man with black dress slacks, a button down shirt and hat. Fifteen minutes into our trek and I asked him what the people of one village do for work and he just smiled and nodded. So much for English-speaking guide. Although, towards the end of the hike, he did turn to me and say: "You very nice person." So, it was all good!

I hiked with DeeDee and Julie, two very nice Parisians. We hiked to the base of the third waterfall and on our way back it poured. The three of us wore hiking boots and as usual, the locals walk around either barefoot or wearing flip flops. In all weather. It's quite humorous to see the falang (tourists) in their hiking gear, trying to gingerly navigate a muddy path when a local comes running through in flip-flops. Case in point, our guide helped each of us cross a stream. We walked across a line of stones while he held our hands and walked in the knee-deep river!!

The plan after the trek was to ride the elephant but they were booked. So, I went to visit the elephant (he just hangs out, unchained near the lodge). He let me feed him a banana. So I booked an 8 a.m. ride for the following day. The plan was to ride the elephant then leave Tadlo.

But that night I met the Portuguese duo, Isaac and Juoa. We had such a good time, they are the kind of people that light up any space. They are so full of life and positive energy. It was Joa's birthday the following day (the elephant ride day) and I decided to stick around for another night. I'm glad I did. We had fun. The guesthouse owner is a huge jazz lover and there was much music swapping. It was so nice to hear Portuguese being spoken and to hear Portuguese music.

The following day, myself and the two Portuguese (hereby known as the porkchops) headed for the 4,000 islands. We had a brief pitstop in Paske, where we had lunch at our favorite Indian restaurant (honestly, I came close to staying just for the food!) and I had to get more money out as the islands do not have any ATMs.

We then took a VERY crammed open-air truck-like vehicle to the 4,000 islands. It was a 3.5 hour journey in this vehicle that included about 35 adults, two infants, one toddler, bags and bags of food and, on top of the vehicle, a motorbike, more bags of stuff and chicken coops. I have photos that accurately capture the crammed nature of the ride. Because it's open-air, you get a lot of dust hitting your face, getting into your eyes, making looking out the back impossible (which is where we were seated). The porkchops were able to twist their bodies in a way that they could face the front but I didn't have that kind of room. Given my past experience in these vehicles, I was determined to get more space. So.....I stood on the back of the grate at the end of the truck with a couple of local men. It was soooo much better than sitting (although I did get hit with the sun). It was like riding a subway.....a long subway.

We arrived, found places to stay and got washed and had a lovely dinner. The next day, I hired a bike and took the island roads. The weather was perfect, a sunny day with a cool breeze. I felt like a kid whizzing past rice fields, guar and huts. The children are just the best...they scream out hello to you no matter how far away they are. And, if you prompt them, they will hold out their hands for a high-five as you ride past. Even the adults make an effort to say hello. It's quite endearing.

On my ride, I came past the porkchops, they were heading south, I was heading north. We chatted for a bit before going on our ways. I wanted to cycle to the northern point of the island (which is 24km in length and 8km wide). I did and then thought I was heading back to the starting line. But then this is me we are talking about. I am probably the first person in the history of the island to get LOST. I took a wrong turn and ended up intersecting the island and going north again. Imagine my horror when I saw the same structure I had just seen an hour ago! Too funny. So, at the end of the day, I rode for nearly six hours, got too much sun and saw a bit more of the island than I had planned.

The following day, myself and the boys headed further south -- a two-hour boat ride to the next island, Don Det. I woke up thinking I would take it easy but that never happens! After chilling out for a bit Joa and I took to bikes to explore the island we were staying on (Don Det) and the island you can get to via bridge, Don Khon. Of course, right after hiring our bikes it absolutely poured with rain. It stopped but it left the roads a very muddy mess. My sandals may look dorky (well, no maybe about it, they are dorky) but they stay on while walking through thick mud. Flip flops on the other hand...not so much. Poor Joa did his best to keep his flip flops on but halfway through our journey he was barefoot. We crossed to the other island and took in a lovely waterfall...a mass of gushing water everywhere. From there we cycled to a beach (well, kind of a beach). We were going to take a boat to see some dolphins but decided against it as the sun was setting and we had quite a journey back. We were absolutely covered in mud!

Back at the guesthouse, we got ourselves clean and then had a lovely dinner at the restaurant adjoining our guesthouse. The owner is a very lively woman. She is quite sharp and friendly....I was planning to move to another guesthouse but have decided to stay on because of the warm vibe from her and her family. The guesthouse we found is very basic. Just a wood bungalow, two hammocks, a bed and a mozzie net. No fan, no light inside the room. The electricity here runs from 7 until about 11. There are shared bathrooms (translation, you need to walk a bit to get to a squat toilet). In the evening, when I went to use the toilet there were two frogs hanging out! I have to tell myself I am camping, I am camping...it's really the only way to plough through.

It was quite nice hearing the river at night. It was a quiet night even though I didn't sleep well. But then, I haven't been sleeping well most nights. The beds are hard, the sheets are musty and sometimes bugs are included. But there you go.

This morning was a sad one. The boys headed off to Phomn Pehn. I am staying on for another day....I am telling myself it will be a day of rest...reading in the hammock, etc. But it's only 10 a.m. so that could all change!

I am sad to see the boys go, but I hope they will visit in NJ....you will all adore them!

Sorry no photos to attach, the connection is soooo slow and there are cobwebs on the computer. Seriously.

Nuttter.

AT HOME:
Totally not ready to do any sheetrocking tomorrow but 2 friends are coming over to hlep do it anyway. GULP!

Groovespook

written by  Groovespook on August 7 from Muang Khong, Laos
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade
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Nuttter is in a reqion of breath-taking beauty. The mighty Mekong has spread out into hundreds of tributaries that meander through swampy-grassland and rocky forests, at times restful and calm, at times violent and angry. The Mekong's murky turbulent water so bent on going south that it ignores everything in it's path. Probably.

RANDOM: The Mekong is the 10th largest river in the world. It is estimated to be 2703 Miles long and drains an area that is 307,000 Miles square.

Our adventurous princess is very close to Cambodia now and starting what can only be described as the next leg of this awesome journey, named so simply because it takes place in another country. Dispatches have Nuttter taking it easy for a couple of days and enjoying the sights and locales of the 4000 islands as we/she waves goodbye to Laos.

AT HOME:
Oh the utter joy of neat wiring. I suspect by tomorrow that ALL of the wiring - bar connecting a 60 amp breaker and the mammoth #6 cable to the mains - will be complete and awaiting an inspection. Then I think I am going to make a big push for a sheetrock party on Saturday.

Groovespook

written by  Groovespook on August 5 from Muang Khong, Laos
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade
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