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Been there, Dan that!

a travel blog by Dan


Well, i'm off to wing it in China for a while, there is some structure to my plans i'm just not sure what they are yet! Thats not entirely true, i'm hopeing to do a bit of teaching somwhere whilst i'm out there and i fully intend to land in a plane in Hong Kong, see i've got loads of plans!!!
it'll be reet mum...

note: the name has changed again, for the last time i promise!


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12 hours in Bangkok, one last green curry!

Bangkok, Thailand


Got rid of some books and spent as little as possible in Bangkok. Was chucking it down with rain and actually cold!!!

Had a good green curry with shrimp for 50p. The street curry vendors (they make it fresh) here are excellent and really cheap. Definately the best thing about Bangkok, along with the good bookshops that have an great variety not just Maeve Blanchy, Tom Clancey and Patricia Cornwell!!!
Picked up a copy of Sun Tzu's The art of war for some relevent reading when I get back into China.

Off to do some real travllling again now, not to be distracted by western food and tourist friendly transport systems.

permalink written by  Dan on September 28, 2008 from Bangkok, Thailand
from the travel blog: Been there, Dan that!
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1 Hour in Macau

Macau, Macau


I would have liked to look round but needed to get over to Hong Kong cos I've got to get to the tourist agency early tomorrow to get my visa application in.

Airport landing strip was cool. Completely man made and sticking out into the sea so was convinced we where performing a splash landing until the last second when this little concrete strip appeared... not at all woriied, honest!

So straight out the airport and over to the ferry terminal for hour long ride to Kowloon but I've got the stamp in my passport so thats another country to tick off (if Macau is a country? answers please)

permalink written by  Dan on September 29, 2008 from Macau, Macau
from the travel blog: Been there, Dan that!
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Not enough Chuffing money!!!

Kowloon, Hong Kong


Bought a new camera, got my 1month Chinese visa (triple the amount of previous 3 month visa) and paid 12 pounds a night for a corridor!
Had to stay an extra 2 days because of, guess what, the national holidays!!!
Had a nice time at the space museum and national art gallery though. Perticularaly good exibit of roman frescoes duf up from the lava of mount vesuvious. Local interest obviously.

Fake student card bought in Thailand already paid for itself twice! Do not go without if travelling to China!

permalink written by  Dan on October 1, 2008 from Kowloon, Hong Kong
from the travel blog: Been there, Dan that!
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Bad time to come back! But it aint all bad...

Guangzhou, China


So coming back to China on the week of the national holiday wasn't too sensible. Wanted to get up to Shanghai asap but couldn't get a train for 2 days and then had to pay for a soft sleeper ticket.

The dorm I found in Guangzhou was full too so had to pay 15 quid for a single room.

Despite what I said last time Guangzhou aint all bad. Spent a couple of days with some other travelers, we strolled around the market and ate some good Cantonese food, something I hadn't managed previously!

Caught the train Saturday morning, 20 hours to Shanghai, was comfortable apart form the bratty 3 year old that ended up in the cabin. Chinese kids can be spoilt little shits!

permalink written by  Dan on October 4, 2008 from Guangzhou, China
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Meeting up with Alyn, at last

Shanghai, China


One of the main reasons I came to China was to visit Alyn an old work colleague and current mate from Sheffield. So its taken me over 7 months to make it here which I feel a bit bad about!

Was it worth the wait?

You'll see when I can be bothered to sit down write about it...

Just for Mr Honeymoondestinations here goes!

I arrived ridiculousness early on the train from Guangzhou, this sort of thing hasn't been much of a problem in the past as hotels are open 24 hours (usually) however poor old Al isn't so I woke him as my taxi arrived at the apartment at 6am, but the mans a trooper so he bounced out of bed and we hit the tourist destinations for breakfast.

Worked out very well as getting to The Bund at 8amish on a Sunday morning means its almost empty unlike the rest of the time. Took the obligatory photos and some less necessary ones, next was Pudong which is the east side of the river Pu, don't trust my spelling on that one. The trip under the river was funny, the Shanghai tourist tunnel a strange monorail type thing with silly lights and voices saying random words at odd intervals in Chinese then English... meteors!!!... magma!!!... Yet another stroke of Chinese genius.

Then went to the aquarium which was super, some really big tanks with sharks, rays, seals and penguins. Not all in the same one but there was a tank with a lot of alligators and 2 ducks swimming around on top, stood there for 5 minutes hoping for a Jurassic park moment but it didn't come. Someone suggested throwing in one of the plethora of Chinese children ruining the view but it was thought better of.

Then went to look at the 3 prominent towers of the skyline first was the oriental pearl, which is in all honesty ugly and looks more suited to the futuristic style buildings you used to see on Thunder birds. Then came the really big 2 the Jin Mao tower, formally China's largest tower and the newly completed Shanghai World Financial centre which is currently the tallest in china and 2nd in the world. They are impressive structures though who knows how long they are going to last as authorities are concerned by the amount of construction going on on what was formally a swamp!

It was then time for lunch and a siesta followed in the afternoon by a trip to the shooting range which was a giggle. I was also a little disturbingly good. Must have been all the practice with the air rifle in scouts, shot a small handgun then a hefty Magnum, I came to the conclusion that guns are scary!

Next day Al went to work and I went to the Shanghai museum, the best bits where the really ancient (3000BC) Bronzes and Jades. After that I came back. There's not much more than a days tourism in Shanghai.


permalink written by  Dan on October 6, 2008 from Shanghai, China
from the travel blog: Been there, Dan that!
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West Lake

Hangzhou, China


Hangzhou is famous for its lake. Its very pretty but its the most ridiculously pristine place I've ever been literally not a leaf is out of place. The lake was built for some emperor chap back in the day (as you can tell I've been reading up!) and is lined with hundreds of willow trees. Its also has some causeways which are really nice to cycle along, all very photogenic and lovely and I got lucky with the weather too as the full day I had there was the only day it wasn't really hazy.
Seemed a fairly affluent and slightly yuppyish city but it certainly wasn't an unpleasant place just a little bland. I wonder if the rest of China will end up like this as it gets richer?
The highlight was stumbling into some Chinese street opera and watching all the locals really enjoying the performances from whom I assume where other locals.

Back to Shanghai for the weekend.



permalink written by  Dan on October 9, 2008 from Hangzhou, China
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Boozed!

Shanghai, China


Came back for Friday night, one of Alyns friends Birthday was happening so we went out for a meal (tex mex) and had a lot of Mango Margaritas and Coronas. Stumbled in at 4. Had a very snazzy day Saturday having Brunch (at a proper brunch restaurant) then strolling through the French concession area drinking the odd coffee and eating cakes, How jolly!
Same evening went for another meal with some other of Als mates (amazing North Indian fare) and then went to a Jazz club who'd shipped over a group playing fantastic Franco American stuff. The club was ace absolutely packed with the dull red light and the whiff of cigars. Lots of classy people there and me with my curly mullet and skanky shoes, I felt a bit out of place.

Next day was recuperation then a train to Huangshnan in the evening. Alyn of course went to work the next morning, I really don't think I could keep up the expat lifestyle!

Anyway thanks to Al for allowing me to freeload a bit. I'm now back to skimping and probably not drinking much more til I get home!

permalink written by  Dan on October 12, 2008 from Shanghai, China
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Bootiful

Huangshan, China


Huangshan means Yellow mountain, though I don't understand the name for it is not yellow... Mind you its certainly a mountain!
There are hotels on top and it is recommended that you take a couple of days over your trip here being all soppy and checking out the sunrise. To be honest I'd have liked to stay longer but 2 factors changed my mind. My desire to get to Beijing before the weekend so I could get to the Mongolian consulate and because hotel rooms on top of the mountain where not cheep. I was already forking out 200 yuan about 17 quid just to go up and it was going to be at least the same again to stay.

Anyway all this meant I was intending to blitz the hill in a day and being the super fit specimen that I am I was going to avoid using the cable cars and walk up. However I was talked out of my only walking plan b a number of Chinese who quoted me times between 3 and 10 hours just to walk up the thing, this was in fact bullshit (it takes 2) but they had a point as I needed 4 or 5 hours to walk around the top plus photographing time and the last bus back was at 5 so I would have been pushing it for time. So I took the sensible if a little expensive option of catching the cable car up so after setting off from Huangshan city at 6am I was on the top amongst the crowds of tourists by 9:30am. After a couple of hours of close proximity with the throngs of Chinese tour groups all wearing there colour coded hats it was a welcome relief and a stunning view.

Huangshan is formed from a very hard granite stone which over the years had formed into vertical (or at least very steep) peaks which would normally erode but due to the strength have remained and also sport an array of pine trees that have grown into the gaps in the stunted style of bonsai trees. The combination creates a very picturesque and "Chinese" landscape which against a crisp blue sky really looked great.

I had made a friend on the bus and in the queue for the cable car, a chap from Shanghai who had similar views to large groups as I so once he'd checked into his hotel we struck off to the Western section of the mountain in the hope of leaving all the retirement groups in our wake.

We soon came across a large gorge type structure which reminded me of Tiger leaping gorge because of the way it just dropped down seemingly endlessly. As We got to what we thought was the end of the path a few huffing Chinese passed in the opposite direction appearing from a small path in the cliff face. We followed this down and soon realised that the impossibly steep cliff wasn't too steep for insane Chinese path engineering and so began the long decent down, peering at the opposite face and thinking how on earth were going to get back up.
The views where fab and well worth the knee crunching stairs and the assent wasn't too difficult as we where in the shaded side of the mountain and it wasn't as steep as the opposite side.
At least I didn't find it too difficult but soon found myself well ahead of Minglung (the chum) and was also passing other Chinese with alarming regularity. Either I'm as fit as a fiddle or the Chinese are rubbish at steps, I have a sneaking suspicion its the latter!

After waiting 30 minutes for Minglung to catch up and only halfway up the hill I said my goodbyes and carried on as it was getting into the afternoon and I was about 10 km away from where I needed to be to descend.
After reaching the top of the far side I carried on wondering the tops and the relentless up and down steps began to take there toll. Fairly shattered I got to the steps and cable car down saw the massive queue for the car and made my fatal error. I chose the steps.

Fairly early on in the descent my muscles started to wobble and within minutes I was in a Monty Python style funny walk trying desperately to stop my knees from giving up on me. Pleasingly all the Chinese coming down looked similarly stupid so we all grinned at one another as we developed are own unique styles. It got less funny after an hour and a bit when I saw the sign that said I had another 2.5 km's of the 8 to go.
Eventually got to the bus station though and hobbled onto the bus.
I never really understood why people said they preferred stairs up to those down but now I completely agree. If you get in a bit of pain going up you can just stop and rest and it will go away but this doesn't work in the opposite direction, your not tired but your legs start acting like jelly!

All worth it though.

permalink written by  Dan on October 14, 2008 from Huangshan, China
from the travel blog: Been there, Dan that!
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Hmmm, trains

Nanjing, China


The normally reliable train service let me down a bit.

Let me qualify that, no trains where late or anything its just I couldn't get a ticket. This usually isn't a problem due to the large numbers of trains (its said that theirs something like 8 million people traveling on a train in China 24 hours a day!!!)

Anyway during my first 5 month stint I never failed to get the ticket I needed but it seems the East coast is a different story.
Unable to get a direct train to Beijing from Huangdhan city I took a hard seat to Nanjing where I was told I would easily catch a connection to the capital. By the way "hard seats" are the lowest class you can get (apart from standing actually) but there not to bad, you've just got to be careful you don't leave your seat for too long as there seems to be the 10 second rule in China where if your not sat on it then its fair game. Well it wasn't to bad for a 7 hour morning ride and I arrived in Nanjing at lunchtime and went straight to the ticket office to get my connection and a bed.
With the words "MAYO" (don't have) tinging in my ears I was left a little shell shocked at the prospect of waiting in Nanjing for the next 2 days when the next sleeper ticket was available for the 1400km trip.
That was no good as it would get me to Beijing on the Sunday so I queued again and asked (with a little help from a English speaking chap) when the next seat of any king was available.

So with my hard seat ticket leaving at 1am in my sticky little mitt I went off to explore the city. A pleasent enough place with a huge park containing (guess what) a massive lake. I then jumped on the tube and trusting in my Lonely planet map went of in search of an internet cafe. After being pointed in the opposite direction by a lovely looking but clearly a little dim Chinese lady (that's not entirely fair rarely can a Chinese person give you decent directions, oh a she offered to help me by the way which is why I believed her...) I found it and camped out for bit passing the time.

I'm rambling sorry, got the train eventually and got to my hostel in Beijing (which is really comfy and quiet) at about 4pm Shattered form a fairly sleepless and stared at night. Still I can now say I've roughed it proper on the trains though I certainly wouldn't jump at the chance of doing it again.

permalink written by  Dan on October 16, 2008 from Nanjing, China
from the travel blog: Been there, Dan that!
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The capital... at last

Beijing, China


My final destination in China is the big one. I think I've saved a goodie to last too I've only been here a day but there's a really nice vibe and the hostel I stumbled across on the web which is situated in one of the peaceful hutongs is lovely.
(A hutong is an area of small traditional streets and houses where your common and garden Beijinger traditionally lives, there's not so many of them left now as your friendly local communist government knocked a lot of them down for various reasons, one being the Olympics and those that remain have been spruced up with fresh slaps of concrete.
Well I've made them sound awful but they are still nice, honest)

After going to bed VERY early Thursday I had to get up at the crack again to get across the city to the Mongolian consul and despite a late scare regarding invitations they've issued the visa with no quibbles. So that's all the visas done and dusted (to my great relief). I need not apply for one ever again, or at least not until I do another trip, hmmm.

I then dropped in on the Chinese astrology museum, not something I'm massively interested in but it was close and cheap. Had some pretty cool Jesuit built instruments and was as old as Greenwich which makes it one of the first ever built!

Then went to pick up and pay for my Beijing to Ulaanbaatar train ticket which cost about 75 quid, another piece of the jigsaw home.

Jumped on the excellent Beijing subway and went to check out the Olympic area. Pretty impressive they are too and for 4 quid you can go in the main stadium and wonder around on the track and green. Lots of very odd dummies strewn around with stocking over there heads, bank robber style where on view. They where adorned in the various costumes from the opening ceremony and the medal ceremonies.
Also saw the waster cube which is a cool building but didn't stump up dosh to go in there as well.

Got back to the hostel and got confirmation of my train ticket from Irkutsk to Moscow, a stiff 250 quid but it does take 75 hours. So I'm nearly all lined up for the trip home. Still 6 weeks away though so don't all get too excited!




permalink written by  Dan on October 17, 2008 from Beijing, China
from the travel blog: Been there, Dan that!
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