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Europe, North Africa 1998

a travel blog by Jason Kester




This trip was planned with two goals in mind: Climb at all the world class crags in southern France, and run with the bulls in Pamplona. This was also my first attempt at lightweight travel. I carried a single pair of pants, a single long sleeved shirt and two t-shirts. You'll note that I'm wearing the same outfit in every single photo. I'm like Charlie Brown that way.

Along the way, I managed to get diverted to Morocco for a week, got injured and ended up in Berlin for a few days, and was basically assimilated by the Mediterranean backpacker crowd for quite some time. Regardless, I still got in a whole bunch of climbing at some amazing places, and did indeed run with the bulls.

One summer is not nearly enough time to do Europe right, though it is definitely enough to run through all your savings. I plan to be back soon.
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RE: news from abroad

Barcelona, Spain

I'm finally calibrated to this schteeep limestone. I got a 1 hang onsight (I dont think that's a term, but you get the picture) on this 7a+ (.12a) that I'll have to go redpoint when I get back to ceuse. Orpierre rules as well, by the way. It's a 45 minute drive, but if you leave the campground at the same time, you're climbing at the same time as you would be at ceuse, but much more rested. It's mongosso steep, with huge holds for the most part, and z-clippable bolts. "A rezt day for zee mind", as the austrians say. I usually tag #'s 1, 3 & 5 on redpoints. I onsighted a 6c+ (.11c), and have this 7b+ (.12c) down to two hangs.

permalink written by  Jason Kester on July 11, 1998 from Barcelona, Spain
from the travel blog: Europe, North Africa 1998
tagged Climbing and Ceuse
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Re: Jump from a sree finger pocket - right hand

Sigoyer, France

Yeah, it pretty much rules here. I think I'm better too. At least I've finally figured out how to work a route effectively. I got this 7b (.12b) on my 2nd redpoint attempt after an hour long session of working the thing on lead.

Oh yeah, I took BIG WHIPPER number two the other day, at the hands of the same belayer chick from BW1. This time I was 5 feet above a bolt & 15 feet right resting on a ledge (and enjoying a giant sport loop) when I pulled off a hold. Moral: Orpierre rules, just dont eat your lunch below the cliff if you dont want to get clobbered by falling rocks. Oh, and dont worry, the french will probably bolt the hold back on.

permalink written by  Jason Kester on August 7, 1998 from Sigoyer, France
from the travel blog: Europe, North Africa 1998
tagged Climbing and Ceuse
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France avec Kesters

Paris, France

So not entirely all that much is new to report. I spent the last month camped out in this farmer's Field in Sigoyer, climbing at Ceuse and Orpierre. Now I'm in Paris preparing to reintegrate into society.

Random french trivia:

They have Pier 1 Imports here, but it's just called Pier Imports. They actually leave enough room in the sign for the 1, but it's nowhere to be found. I think they use them as American traps, because you stare at this sign across the street trying to figure out if the 1 is just burned out or what, and after about a block of walking and staring, they have this open manhole for you to trip over and fall into. At least that was my experience.

permalink written by  Jason Kester on August 7, 1998 from Paris, France
from the travel blog: Europe, North Africa 1998
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France

Paris, France

Sorry for the big lapse in writing, but I've been in a little farming village for the last month and they arent all that big on the internet there (or phones for that matter). Anyway, I'm in Paris now and I fly out the 11th. I'll make my way to london in a couple days.

I'm actually looking forward to being back in america. I miss 8 lane roads and big supermarkets and signs that point to things that actually exist and stores that are open at 9 at night and 1 in the afternoon and at all on sunday and monday. So I'll try to make it up to Seattle soon after I get back.

permalink written by  Jason Kester on August 7, 1998 from Paris, France
from the travel blog: Europe, North Africa 1998
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Re: Ceuse??

Portland, United States

"G. Losier" wrote:
> I need any type of info for Ceuse. Easy to find partner? camping? How
> far from Gap? thanks

I spent a little over a month there off and on last summer. I would highly recommend the place. Partners are always easy to find, and most of the people even speak english.

The crux can be hitching from Gap. I had times where I was picked up within 30 seconds of sticking my thumb out, and at least one 8-hour ordeal to get the 25km up to Sigoyer. From downtown, walk out a ways on the D994. Scribble out a sign that says "Freisineusse(sp?)" as well as "Sigoyer". That should inspire the through traffic to at least take you partway. Anyway, at Fres..., head left on the D47 and follow the signs to Sigoyer. Hopefully by now you're in a car with a climber. Otherwise, walk the mile uphill from Sigoyer to Les Guerins campground.

Les Guerins is a turbo plush campground by US standards. It has free hot showers, refrigerators, washing machine, and a woody in the barn for rainy days. Not bad for 3 bucks a night. Gerard, the farmer that owns the place doesn't speak any english, so it's always fun trying to pay for camping. He also sells bread and chalk, as well as really cheap ravioli.

According to the french, Ceuse is the place to be is southern France when the weather is too hot at Buoux and elsewhere. I was there from June to August and there were always plenty of people to climb with and bum rides into town from.

permalink written by  Jason Kester on March 25, 1999 from Portland, United States
from the travel blog: Europe, North Africa 1998
tagged Climbing and Ceuse
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Hey! I wrote Blogabond so I guess that makes me your host. Welcome!

I spend about 9 months a year on the road, chasing the sun around the world in search of good climbing and surfing. I carry a laptop along with me, and take on small programming contracts to take care of expenses.
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