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Australia (1990)

a travel blog by shoshtrvls



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Day 5

Coober Pedy, Australia

Woke up and went to call Tom, who wouldn't take my call! Other, more pressing, phone call I guess (a bigger name on the other line).

A quick breakfast and then up the trail, but not before seeing our first camels of the trip, in a pen in Marree. Along the way we stopped at South Lake Eyre, where I sank into the mud up to my calves (which is a long way). We drove by a few springs which produced oases and followed the track that parallels the old, abandoned Ghan railway. The dirt track road was long and dusty, with nothing in sight from horizon to horizon, except the occasional ruin of an old homestead, some still with cars rotting away.

We stopped for lunch at William Creek, a one-pub town, and the smallest in all of Australia (or so they say), set in the middle of the largest cattle ranch in the world, Anna Creek Station. At the pub there was a real outback crowd -- an aboriginal, who kept insisting that he was "Pete's head stockman" and had two horses, a race horse and an apaloosa. There were also several government workers and real tourists, in white slacks and all!

We then drove to Coober Pedy, opal mining capital of the world. Apparently, we also saw and crossed the doge fence, but we were so tired of seeing station fences we didn't realize it.

Arriving in Coober Pedy, we walked about before having dinner at John's Pizza Parlour and turning in. We still have some stone buying to do.

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on April 6, 1990 from Coober Pedy, Australia
from the travel blog: Australia (1990)
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Day 6

Uluru (Ayers Rock), Australia

After buying some opals in the morning, today was a rather boring one, driving the Stuart Highway and Lassiter Highway as far as Curtain Springs Station. Nothing to see, really, except lots of red sand and dirt and basic, unquaint truck stops. Nothing like the real outback feel of the last three days.

Tonight is spent on the Station, watching the sun set over Mt. Conner.

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on April 7, 1990 from Uluru (Ayers Rock), Australia
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Day 7

Uluru (Ayers Rock), Australia

As I write this, I am sitting in the middle of the Olga Gorge, a spectacular place in the middle of the Olgas, a range of monoliths, or huge (really huge) boulders, like mountains. The hike here was an easy one (although Peter and Gretchen have yet to arrive) and the scenery certainly worthwhile.

We woke up this morning and I went for a short "walk about" to pet my emu friend harry (as named by Peter) and saw my first dingo. Cute little tan animal. We then drove to the Yulara Resort on the outskirts of the Uluru National Park and pitched our little tent at the Ayers Rock Campground. Yulara is an interesting place -- brand new, perfectly planned. We made a quick stop at the Visitor's Center and a bite to eat, before driving to the Olgas (known in aboriginal as Kata Tjuta).

After the Olgas we drove back to the campsite and lazed around the swimming pool before walking back to the main part of Yulara. Here we wandered through shops, had a beer and then went to watch the sun set over Ayers Rock (Uluru), althoug hthe cloud cover made the viewing less than spectacular. It also ruined our attempt to go star gazing, but such is life.

Overnight, it poured rain, but out little tent kept us dry throughout. Afterwards, I heard a kangaroo mouse hopping around just outside our tent.

(Notes: Canadians, Irish, hitchhikers, catapillar train, road trains)

[I remember what "road trains" meant -- on the open highways, there are tractor trailers cabs pulling dozens of trailers, like a train. pretty remarkable]

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on April 8, 1990 from Uluru (Ayers Rock), Australia
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Day 8

Uluru (Ayers Rock), Australia

Peter and I were up before dawn, hoping to catch sight of the Sunrise over Uluru before making "the climb." However, like the previous evening, the clouds prevented us from seeing anything spectacular.

We then drove on to the rock and made the ascent. It only took me about 1hr15min, but was quite a bit more difficult than I expected. A chain link helped hikers up and down the most difficult part. However, the climb was rewarded with magnificent views of the Olgas, Kings Canyon, the McDonnells and Mr. Conner -- almost 90 km away. I stood in line to sign the book at the top with a Japanese girl traveling alone, who spoke no English, Martin, a rock-n-roll teacher from Ontario, and someone from Michigan. Coming down was neither fun nor easy, but I made it.


permalink written by  shoshtrvls on April 9, 1990 from Uluru (Ayers Rock), Australia
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Day 8 (Continued)

Alice Springs, Australia

We had breakfast back in Yulara and then we broke camp for the drive to Alice Springs. We stopped along the way at Noel Fullerton's Camel Farm where Gretchen and I took a ride ... my camel was Johnny Cakes. It was bumpy coming down but otherwise fine.

We arrived a Alice Springs and checked into our accommodations before walking about town and having Mexican food for dinner.

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on April 9, 1990 from Alice Springs, Australia
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Day 9

Alice Springs, Australia

Slept well last night. Had breakfast then took a walk about Alice Springs. I mostly visited art galleries, and had my first roll of photos developed. I made two purchases -- a Barney Daniels painting and a hat. I really like the painting I got and Barney Daniels appears to be quite famous, maybe too famous and prolific. But I do like the piece and only hope I didn't spend too much money. After lunch we drove to the old telegraph station, where I am now. Your basic restored homestead buildings.

After the telegraph station it was off to the old ghan station. It was closed but we still walked around a bit before having dinner at a pizza restaurant. Then it was back o the hotel to relaze about the pool before turning in after a year-old episode of LA Law (dwarf tossing).

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on April 10, 1990 from Alice Springs, Australia
from the travel blog: Australia (1990)
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Day 10

Alice Springs, Australia

This morning it was off to the Western McDonnell Range and two stops -- Simpson's Gap and Standley Chasm. Both were nice little park areas. However, we were done by noon and realized that we had exhausted all of the possibilities of Alice Springs, or "the Alice," with six hours left to spare. This resulted in aimless wandering and a LONG relax at the Chateau Hornsby Winery.

Said good-bye to Peter and Gretchen at the airport, which I believe was perfect timing. I had had a great time and we had gotten along quite well, however I believe one or two more days together would have been too much.


permalink written by  shoshtrvls on April 11, 1990 from Alice Springs, Australia
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Day 10 (Continued)

Darwin, Australia

The plane to Darwin appeared to be populated solely by Americans from California. Next to me was a father/daughter pair definitely from Beverly Hills; across the aisle a businessman seemingly also from LA.

However, arrival in Darwin is what backpack travel is all about. Stepping off the plane I was immediately struck by the immense humidity, reminiscent of China and Thailand. This was reinforced when I arrived at the YHA -- basic accommodations surrounded by tens of "budget travelers" buying food at outdoor stalls, writing postcards, etc. It's great and I'm almost sorry that I have to leave so early tomorrow. But I will be back soon enough.

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on April 11, 1990 from Darwin, Australia
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Day 11

Darwin, Australia

I awoke at about 3 a.m. to the sound of a major rainstorm but, as with most tropical storms, it was over in an hour. I waiting in the dark for the tour bus with several other people -- one guy who apparently worked at the hotel, up early for a barefooted jog around the block, a woman who worked as a tour agent up early because her boyfriend was driving a bus, and two girls from Seattle, Washington waiting for a different tour. (They were going to Thailand so I passed on a recommendation for Oot).

The tour bus, actually a modified landcruiser wagon, arrived at about 6:15. On it were two Japanese men in their twenties who spoke no English, a young girl, Sarah, from Manchester, a guy from Northern England, an obnoxious frenchman (who was at least somewhat entertaining), 2 germans, an older couple from Carlsbad, California (John and Joan), a young couple from London (Paul and Angela), a girl from Manchester (Joyce) and one other.

Our first stop was Fogg Dam, an abandoned rice farm turned into a bird preserve. Here we saw some wallabies and numerous birds.

From there it was one stop and through to Kakadu National Park, with lunch at our mosquito-infested campsite. Then it was on to a beautiful little swimming hole (Kubarma?) whose only problem was that it was a 3km walk there and back. In this heat, that was definitely a problem, especially since the truck has no air conditioning to cool us down after the return journey.

From there we went to Nourlangie Rock where Kim, our guide, did a fairly good job of telling us about the plants and aboriginal paintings.

Back to camp where we met up with another group led by Nick, a rowdy group of Australians who were fund when I wanted to stay awak, but a real pain when I was ready to fall asleep.

The mosquitoes were horrendous.

(Note: camp -- Manyallaluk or Googleyes)

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on April 12, 1990 from Darwin, Australia
from the travel blog: Australia (1990)
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Day 12

Darwin, Australia

This morning we first visited another rock art site, Ubirr Rock, and again met up with Nick's group for lunch and a quick swim at the Four Seasons hotel. Then it was a "yellow waters" cruise for crocodile spotting, which was successful. Joyce, Paul, Angela and I were then loaded onto a tiny airplane and flew over the Arnemland escarpment, including Jim Jim falls, and landed in Eva Valley in Arnemland.

Needless to say, the "airport" was merely a landing strip. There we were met by Brad and Ron, two "old salts" who were to be our guides for the next three days. Brad is the younger of the two, apparently a Vietnam Vet. Ron is an ex-Buffalo hunter. In Arnemland, life is much cooler and far, far fewer mosquitoes. A trip to a nearby hill for the sunset, dinner and bed.

(Notes: wild horses, Buffalo, donkeys).

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on April 13, 1990 from Darwin, Australia
from the travel blog: Australia (1990)
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Welcome to my travels. On this site you'll find recent trips and some very old trips. You'll note that for some trips I wrote very detailed reports (at least in the beginning), for others, I didn't even take notes of where I was on what dates. Nevertheless, I've done my best to document, to...

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