December 30, 2009 to January 3, 2010

Varanasi is known as the City of Life and is one of the holiest places in India. It is also one of the oldest continuously inhabitated cities in the world, known formerly as Benares.

We arrived in Varanasi at 5.00 am and once again, were very lucky to find a kind rickshaw man that took us around town searching for a hotel. Our basic requirements are: a double bedroom, clean, with a bathroom and hot water, sufficient space to accommodate the two Yoga mats on the floor and obviously, a good price. After a few failed options and the rickshaw man knocking the doors trying to wake up the staff, he finally took us to a nice place close to the south gaths (steps leading to the river).

Bathers searching for enlightment at the banks of India's holiest river

Family of Hindu devotees taking water from the Ganges

Varanasi was extremely cold and fogy. You can especially feel it as the rooms have no heating. On our second day we took a rowing boat early in the morning. Even though we were fully wrapped, Patricia’s lips became all purple and we were shivering like chickens. However, the boat ride, which we shared with 3 Spanish girls and the humble boat man, was very mystical and deeply interesting. Even though it was so early and so cold, Indians were taking baths and completing ceremonies on the sacred Ganga River. Hindu pilgrims come here to wash away a lifetime of sins.

View of the Varanasi Ghats in the early hours of the morning

The main reason to visit Varanasi was to see the burning ghats, where the dead are brought to be cremated and their remainders are thrown into the river. The very poor people are burned in a big oven like building, the rich people at open air with expensive sandalwood and a whole range in between. These activities happen every day the entire day. Many old Indians move to Varanasi for their final years to make sure they are sent to the river. It is a particularly auspicious place to die since expiring here offers moksha (liberation from the cycle of birth and death).

Cremation Ghat: Hindus believe that if their body is cremated and then submerged into the river it will be blessed

We love this pic of our boatmand Shiva (the name of one of Hinduism main Gods) which resembles the lovely smiles we found in many indians

Fire ceremony (Ganga Arti) performed every evening on the banks of the river

Offerings to sacred Ganga (Ganges) that consist of a little bowl made of leaves, filled with flowers and candles in the middle

The old centre of Varanasi, around the ghats, is all very mystical. The narrow labyrinth oh alleys are just for pedestrians and at night there are almost no lights, so it can be a bit intimidating.

We enjoyed good food in Varanasi. In particular, the I:ba and the Dolphin restaurants.

We spent New Year here and decided to join the party at our small hotel. The owners prepared a nice simple Indian dinner and brought some musicians for our entertaining. One of them beautifully played the flute and another one played the sitar, a classical instrument from northern India which has 20 strings. Both were accompanied by the tabla, Indian drums. We also had a traditional kathak dance that is a sort of story telling. We had a good time and enjoyed with our Spanish and Chilean new friends watching the overly happy owners of the hotel dance the night away to the Indian tunes.

Dancer and musicians during New Years celebration