Arrive in Chania was uneventful and at first I began to doubt the guidebook. However, slowly, I made my way through the new city, into the old city and finally to the small, enchanting, this-can't-possibly-be-real harbour. More Venetian than Greek (as I had been warned), this harbour could not have been built better by Disney or 20th Century Fox. Even better, I found myself the perfect room -- wooden floors, whitewashed walls, a deck and an incredibly view of the harbour. As I told the woman from Boston who appeared to own the place, I was sure I had gone to heaven.

And now I am sitting in a harbour-side cafe, eating shrimp and watching the sun go down. Vacation.

(Big mistake -- buying a pack of cigarettes. So seductive and addictive).

written by  shoshtrvls on May 4, 1993 from Chania, Greece
from the travel blog: Greece (1993)
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Shortly after noon I took a walkabout to the archeological museum, the nearby beach, through various alleys, and the market, and continued my unsuccessful search for a boat, any boat, to take me out for an hour or two.

Eventually I returned to my balcony and completed my depo reading. A brief name and then back into the world of dinner and coffee. I am now implanted in a cafe by the outer harbour contemplating the world.

written by  shoshtrvls on May 5, 1993 from Chania, Greece
from the travel blog: Greece (1993)
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First I drove to the north -- Akrontiri Penninsula, and visited three monasteries. The first, Ayia Triadha, was everything a Greek monastery should be -- quiet, shaded, roses in bloom, black-frocked priests wandering about. The place was being refurbished but somehow it seemed appropriate -- the new frescos as one-dimensional as the old.

Further on was the second monastery, Gouvernetou, similar to the first in just about every way. Not as lush, however behind was a path leading down, first to a cave and some ruins, then further to the remains of an abandoned 16-17th century monastery -- Katholiko. Here I was all alone and savored the beauty of the rocky mountains, blue ocean, sky, etc. The climb back up made me work, and in the end I knew that I had gotten in the day's exercise.

Next I headed for Stavros, a tiny lagoon with a nice beach. On the way I stopped at Irene's tavern, highly recommended by the car rental agent, (who didn't hold my passport, credit card, or anything) and well worth it. Great garlic chicken.

written by  shoshtrvls on May 6, 1993 from Koumaries, Greece
from the travel blog: Greece (1993)
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The last stop was the monastery of Gonia, similar to the others but smaller and with an imposing view of the ocean. However, the icons here were the best of all.

written by  shoshtrvls on May 6, 1993 from Rodhopos, Greece
from the travel blog: Greece (1993)
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Unfortunately, I am now sitting in the Chania airport while masses of German tourists pour through, apparently catching some charter flight out of the country (the pounding of the immigration officer's stamp has given me an overwhelming headache).

Sometimes, life works out. The incredibly nice flight check in woman has placed m in "executive class" for the trip back to Athens. It was kind and is appreciated.

[2009 Edit -- Rereading this, I decided to look up that cafe, because it so sticks out in my mind. It now has a website and here's a bit about it's history:

The building you are in was built in 1650 by Jews, who were brought from Spain by the Venetians during their occupation of Crete in the middle ages.

The building was initially used for the manufacture of soap and this explains its Split levels, called tabakades.

The windows were set low in order to allow the soap to dry in the draft.

The thick wooden beams were placed close to each other to avoid movement during the stamping of the soap.

The timber used for its construction was sourced from chestnut trees and trees from the Black Sea area.

Later, when the building was taken over by the Greeks, it functioned in turn as a school, wine store and spirits distillery for ouzo, liqueurs and tsikoudia.

More recently it served as a cheese factory and confectioner’s kitchen.

From 1976 to 1988 the renovated building operated as a coffee shop, bar and restaurant on three floors.

In 1988 the building was completely destroyed by fire.

Since 1991, after comprehensive safety checks, the building has housed the Ela taverna with live music and fresh traditional dishes. ]

written by  shoshtrvls on May 6, 1993 from Chania, Greece
from the travel blog: Greece (1993)
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