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Yunnan, China

a travel blog by prrrrl


I have two weeks to explore this province. I do not do whirlwind breeze through tours so I will only have time for two or three locations. Come along!
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Sobriety test

Dali, China


Ate at a local place for dinner. It was packed! Only one table was open and it was a little squatty one near the open door. I had to sit on an 8 inch high stool. But packed is a good sign, right?

In this case the locals packing it were significantly comprised of women in towel turbans. This is a minority group I had not seen yet. One had an hommage to Yassar Arafat but in baby blue. It was either that or she was trying to camouflage a cowboy hat.

My meal was good and it just felt right being in a place filled with so many lovely ladies.

But right next to my squatty table was a group of men. The two closest to me offered me what appeared to be hard liquer carted in a Sprite bottle. Had they been sober, one refusal should have surficed, right? I had to turn them down 5 times! Sobriety test? FAIL!

permalink written by  prrrrl on March 12, 2012 from Dali, China
from the travel blog: Yunnan, China
tagged Turban, YassarArafat, Camouflage, Towel, Fail, Liquer and Minority

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Tea party!

Dali, China


The poster in the room suggesting visiting a tea plantation as part of a custom tour where you hire a car for a day. Can I get there on public transit?

"Four kilometer walk from the bus stop."

"No problem, I can walk that far."

"The way is not marked; it will be hard to find."

"I speak enough Chinese and you've written down the location in characters. I can ask for directions long the way."

Short walk to the bus station. Inquired around for my destination and the first minivan was going my way. 3rmb [48 cents.]

The driver stops to let me out. I ask at the corner convenience store for the 'tea factory.' Straight up the road. Easy.

I found the tea factory but nothing of note was happening except renovations. "I want to see tea bushes." "Up the road to and to the left."

I did have to guess as when to go left. My first instinct was correct. Easy.

I did have to pass a gate guard house* where I wrote down my name. They also wanted my company and phone number. I suppose I could have made something up but I just said I don't have one for the first and that I forgot for the second. One asked about smoking. I thought maybe he was asking for a bribe. The other guard did not want me to pass. The first let me.

On I walked. I passed an electric grid substation and a nice but uninhabited compound. The stone road wound its way up the mountainside.

As last I saw rows and rows of short green bushes. Tea! I crunched up a leaf. No aroma. At the factory I was told that it was the wrong season. Further on many bushes were pruned of all leaves, just many gray stumps in a clump. Didn't matter - I've now been to a tea plantation in Yunnan. I walked on.

I passed a few rough and simple homes*, laundry & corn drying in the courtyard. I passed several graves* scattered about the tea bushes, all facing somewhat to the east.

Below me were towns, villages, factories and farmlands stretching to the lake, beyond which were low hills barely visible in the haze. Above me were snow-sprinkled mountain tops. Let's keep walking!

After some time I was passed on a motor bike by a local. I soon came to his destination. Not to many people on this road [I saw some power company people at the substation and no one since] and far fewer big noses, if any. He greated me and asked if I'd like some water or tea. I'm in Yunnan, the home of some of the finest teas in the world and I've just made a pilgramage to a tea plantation even though it's out of season... "Tea, please!!!" There was a small building consisting of open courtyard on the east and three small rooms across the west. The only entrance was from the south. Wanted and conduct posters told me it was a work station of some sort, not a home. The 10 people, 2 women and 8 men, were finishing up lunch, one dish still sizzling in the wok. They invited me eat! A huge pot of steamed rice sat on the table, enough for 20 more people. One gentleman took a thermos of hot water and rinced a bowl and pair of chopsticks. He wiped the rim of the bowl with his probably rarely washed fingers. I ate. I drank tea a few feet from where it's grown. I listened to them laugh hartily, probably at me some of the times. They seemed a happy lot.

Three started singing in turns, each turn being lengthy. I assume it was a tradition Chinese ditty but there must have been some improvisation as one line was sung directly to one gentleman and everyone but me roared in laughter.

But I must return to civilization and end my lovely walk and visit at the foot of the mountain*. Sigh...

Twas super easy day. I walked many more than four kilometers just because it was such a beautiful day with the blue-est skies* I've ever seen in China. It was quiet and wooded - perfect recipe for a walk. When I returned to the hostel I drew a map of my route so the next tea aficionado can make the same trek. So if you're ever in Dali and want to see the tea plantation just go to the Jade Emu and ask for Jan't map. I signed it.

  • Photos coming soon.


  • permalink written by  prrrrl on March 13, 2012 from Dali, China
    from the travel blog: Yunnan, China
    tagged Mountain, Tea, Blue, Easy, Walk and Invite

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    Hygiene disaster averted!

    Dali, China


    During my lovely visit amongst the tea bushes where I was enjoying a local brew I almost had too much hospitality. My cup had cooled a bit so I decided to pour it into my almost empty water bottle. One of the gents saw this and that my water bottle was still not refilled. He took his tea bottle and with out asking started to pour his tea into my bottle. "Enough, enough!" I have have enough tea, thank you. Not a drop of his made it into mine. If you've ever been to China you'll understand...

    permalink written by  prrrrl on March 13, 2012 from Dali, China
    from the travel blog: Yunnan, China
    tagged Tea, Hygiene, Germs, Gent and Hospitality

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    Just not my day? Just not my two weeks!

    Dali, China


    I've had a very bad chest & head cold since the start of my vacation. Today is my last day. The coughing and sniffling have tapored off but are still there. So what happens the last day? Emptying of my digestive tract at both ends. I'm 'home' in my hostel bed with an upset tummy. Are vacations suppose to be like this?

    permalink written by  prrrrl on March 13, 2012 from Dali, China
    from the travel blog: Yunnan, China
    tagged Bed, Sick, Cold and Digestive

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    The Developing Country Game!

    Dali, China


    Let's count how many things can go wrong in one day:

    Haven't eaten in 36 hours due to stomach bug. -1

    Even after drinking water, I don't need to use the toilet +1

    Pack bags quickly and am out of room early. +1

    Bus not there at expected time -1

    Comment to staff that bus is late, staff looks surprised; he checks book - my name is not on the list but I have the receipt. Best guess is he forgot and I actually missed the bus even though I was waiting well before departure. -5

    Staff quickly refunds the 10rmb difference in cost for the next bus. +1

    Small bottle of plum juice [a Yunnan specialty] does not upset my tummy. +1

    Next bus is also late. -2

    Taxi comes, takes me three blocks to bus. Bus than drives rigth past hostel. I realize that though the hostel says no 'booking fee' I probably could have crossed the road and caught the very same bus for about half the price. -3

    I happen to pick the shaded side of the bus, so no sun in my eyes. +0.5

    Two lanes of traffic headed North on a two lane road [the truck on the left was passing a vehicle on the right] means total traffic stoppage. People are getting out of their vehicles to look at the road block. I've got a plane to catch and I'm already twice delayed! -5 [Turns out it was a traffic accident, the passing truck forced a south-bound van to veer to its left but the veer was insufficiant and CRASH! Twas just the corner of the passenger side so hopefully no one was injured.]

    Traffic delay number two - just an overturned mini-truck on the side of the road to drive around. At least it was a shorter delay. -1

    Three hour bus to Lijiang takes 4 hours to get to Lijiang outskirts. -2

    Dropped off at airport road. I thought I was to flag down another bus but it turned out that the airport was literally across the road. I walked up the trafficless Departure Ramp to the terminal. +3

    Lugged all my travel possessions in two backpacks [one worn front, one back] the block distance to the terminal without having eaten any solid food in 40+ hours. -1

    Get to the airport 30 minutes before the check in counter closes for my flight. Phew! +1

    Chose the shortest line at the check-in counter but apparently the slowest agent. The line next to me moved much faster. -1

    Agent tells me I don't have a ticket. I show her my passport. No. I show her my ticket number as emailed to me by Delta. Nope. "Take your luggage and go to the ticket counter across the hall." -2

    Ticket counter checks my passport & ticket number. Verdict? No ticket. :-O -6

    Delta's China ticket office is only open during US business hours which means that's it is closed during China's business day. Now what?? I guess that my boarding pass for my flight from Beijing will prove that I have a ticket. I actually find it and... I'm right! They send me back to the check in counter. +5

    It is 2 minutes past check in counter closing time [30 minutes before flight time]. They check me in quickly and tag my bag. -/+0 [They had better check me in quickly!]

    I still have security to go through and the get to get to. Final score??? I made it to Beijing. But what a day!

    The ticket number Delta gave me had one extra digit on the end. But wouldn't my name have made the difference? There were only two people on the flight with non-character names. It's not like there was a Jane Fu Jonah Du on the flight. Not in English, anyway.



    permalink written by  prrrrl on March 16, 2012 from Dali, China
    from the travel blog: Yunnan, China
    tagged Food, Bus, Beijing, Ticket, Accident and Late

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    I still hear in English

    Dali, China


    Three new people checked into my room. They were all Chinese from Guang Zhou. We chatted the usual 'where are you from, where are you going, how long have you been traveling' conversation - all in Chinese! I was so proud of myself. They spoke slowly, I spoke slowly. But the communication worked!

    Then I heard, "Beijing how long?" "One week," I answered. But he had said, "Beijing hau leng?" which means, 'is it very cold in Beijing?' proving that I'm stuck in English whether I try or not.

    :-/

    permalink written by  prrrrl on March 22, 2012 from Dali, China
    from the travel blog: Yunnan, China
    tagged Cold, Long, Proud and Mistranslation

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